Put on the bike chain correctly. How to tension and adjust a bicycle chain
An important element for the bike’s performance is the chain, the life of which depends on timely care. When working, it should not crack and creak. It is normal that in the process of operation it gradually wears out and, as a result, lengthens. When adjusted correctly, the chain should have a slack of 10-12 mm. When pulling with your fingers, it should give in by 10-15 mm, and if this value is greater, then it must be pulled. Note that this is only relevant for bicycles or without derailleurs, or with planetary gears.
It is also important to adjust the tension when installing a new chain. Even more important is to tighten it after the first three arrivals. A new part stretches very quickly during the first time of operation.
Bike Tension Adjustment Without Gears
A properly tensioned chain on a bike without speeds should be slightly free by an amount of sag of about 5 mm.
To tighten the chain on a regular speed bike, you need to:
- Put your transport wheels upside down.
- Loosen the nuts or eccentrics of the rear wheel.
- Adjust the correct amount of chain slack by sliding the wheel along inclined slots called dropouts.
It is necessary to fix the rear wheel only in the position when its axis is parallel to the carriage shaft.
When the chain is too tight, it becomes very difficult to pedal on the bike, the parts of the chain drive wear out quickly. Whereas the sagging chain can jump off the stars, and it will definitely be impossible to go further.
If the wheel is already against the edge of the dropouts, there is nowhere else to move it, and the chain belt is still dangling, then you will need to remove a couple of links.
Adjusting the bike with speeds
The amount of chain tension on a bike with a rear parallelogram derailleur is determined entirely by the force of the derailleur spring. But if the chain is too long, then this tensioner will not be able to compensate for its slack, and it will begin to hit the frame. This is especially true on bicycles with a short rear derailleur, as the chain is too short and it is difficult to change gears. It will cause accelerated wear of transmission parts. This primarily applies to two-suspension bicycles.
Very often, when installing a new chain on a high-speed bike, it is necessary to shorten its length, that is, remove several links.
There are two ways to determine how many links to remove:
- Place the chain on the largest sprockets at the front and rear. Pull on it while pushing the rear derailleur all the way forward. Now it only remains to add two links, and the optimal length will be determined.
- Place the chain on the front of the largest sprocket and on the back of the smallest sprocket. Tighten the chain until the frame of the rear derailleur points straight down, more precisely, when the axles of the derailleur rollers become in one vertical line.
On double suspensions, it will be more correct to adjust the chain length by pressing the rear swingarm down to the position where the front sprocket cassette is as far away from the rear ratchet as possible. By marking the desired length, extra links can be removed.
Collapsible chains are placed on a regular bicycle without speeds; they have a lock on one of the links. Most modern speed bikes use non-separable chains with all the links riveted equally well. It is not difficult to disassemble a one-piece riveted chain, you just need to grind the heads of the pins on one of its links on emery. It is even easier and more accurate to disconnect the rivets using a special tool. squeeze.
It should be noted that pomace is a versatile tool. With its help, you can not only squeeze out the locking pin, but also re-rivet the disassembled chain. Many squeezes have two working grooves: one is needed for pressing the pin out of the roller, and the other for pressing it in. A mounting location farther from the pressure screw is for ripping the chain pins. You can learn more about using such a tool in the following video.
The chain starts to slip when the tension is released due to its extreme tension. And being overstretched, it, in turn, quickly wears out the sprockets. So by putting a new chain on an old ratchet, you may not achieve anything. All the same, slipping on small stars will remain.
If this is not the first time you pull up the old chain, get ready to replace it soon. Remember that you can only remove two links from it once. In the end, you still have to spend money on a new part.
Removing and putting on the chain on the bike
Quite often it is necessary to remove and then put the chain back on the bike, for example when cleaning the chain. replacing or changing its length. To do this, you must first disconnect and then reconnect the bicycle chain. This process is very easy if the chain has a special connecting lock, but if the chain is without a lock, then a special tool is required to disconnect it. a chain squeeze. What other tools may be required for repair, we read in our article. tools for repairing a bicycle. Let’s take a closer look at the case with and without a lock.
How to remove a chain with a lock
As already mentioned, this process is very simple and in most cases no special tools are required. Despite the wide variety of types of locks, they all disconnect in almost the same way. If you still cannot open the lock manually, you can use a special tool (see the figure below).
How to remove a chain from a bike without a lock
If the chain does not have a lock, then a tool is needed to remove it. squeezing the chain. Without a squeeze, it is quite difficult to disconnect the chain and the chance of damage to the chain links is very high, and it is almost impossible to connect a chain opened in this way. If the chain has to be removed often enough, then it is better to have such a tool in your arsenal, squeezing the chain greatly simplifies working with the chain without a lock.
In order to disconnect the chain without a lock, it is necessary to press out one of the pins (link axis), just for this procedure we need a squeeze. Any link is suitable for this operation, but it should be borne in mind that the next time it is pressed out, it is worth choosing a different link, since each time the pin looses more and more. Ideally, a connection lock should be purchased and installed.
So, we proceed to the direct riveting of the chain. The chain link must be inserted into the squeeze (as shown in the figure below). It is worth considering that most puckers have two grooves for placing the chain, in this case you need to install the chain in the groove closer to the fixing screw. The second groove is only needed for adjustment.
How to chain a bike without a lock
Before reconnecting the chain on mountain bikes and sport bikes, it must be correctly pulled through the rear derailleur rollers. see fig. below, marked with a red line:
Next, go to the direct connection of the chain link. To do this, it is necessary to carry out the same operation, only in the reverse order. We place the chain in the groove near the fixing bolt so that the protruding pin looks at the squeeze nose. Twisting the knob, smoothly push the pin back until it fully enters the link. After this procedure, the links into which the pin was pressed should move freely, if this does not happen, then you need to use the adjusting groove for the chain squeeze. Having placed the desired link in the adjusting groove, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the pin protrude from both ends equally.
If the chain is from Shimano with a disposable connecting pin, press it into the link using a squeeze and break off the rounded end. This tip is needed to simplify the process of pressing the pin.
Here, in principle, is all you need to know about how to put on and remove the chain on a bicycle, as well as disconnect and connect the chain without a lock. If you have experience in disconnecting circuits without squeezing, we ask you to share it with us and our readers in the comments below.
How to chain a bike
The chain is one of the most important structural elements for the movement of the bicycle. And its service life depends on the regularity and quality of care. An indicator that something is wrong with the bike chain is crackling and squeaking when moving, as well as slipping it on the ratchet.
Basically, the fact that the chain wears out over time this is normal. And chain stretching is a visual sign of wear. The fact that the chain has become unusable can be felt even tactilely. In the normal position, this part sags slightly (by 10 or 12 millimeters), and if you pull it slightly, then it will give in for another 10-15 mm. True, this method is relevant only for models that do not have high-speed switching or have a planetary type gear.
Adjusting chain tension on bicycles without gears
For bicycles to function flawlessly without speeds, their chain should not be too tight. It is necessary to ensure its free sagging for a length of up to 5 mm. And in order to pull in this way, you need to perform a certain set of actions in the correct sequence:
- Turn the vehicle wheels up.
- Loosen the rear wheel unscrew the nuts or fastening eccentrics.
- Adjust chain slack to the required amount. To do this, you need to carefully move the wheel along the inclined grooves (dropouts).
- At the end of the adjustment, the wheel should be fixed to its original position again. In this case, the wheel axle must be parallel to the carriage shaft.
If the chain is too tight, it will become difficult to pedal. And the elements of the chain drive will very soon become unusable. It is also bad if the bike chain is too slack. She will simply jump off the stars at a certain moment and it will be impossible to go further.
When the wheel literally rested on the dropouts and there is absolutely nowhere to move it further, but the bicycle chain dangles, you will have to remove a couple of links from it. In all likelihood, it was stretched or not at all the size for a particular model.
Adjusting the chain tension in bicycles at speeds
The tension of the chain on a bike with a parallelogram derailleur (rear) is determined solely by the spring rate of the derailleur itself. But the chain, which turned out to be too long, will start to beat against the frame, since the tensioner will no longer be able to compensate for its slack.
It should be borne in mind that insufficient chain length leads to wear of the main transmission parts, since it significantly complicates their switching. Owners of two-suspension bicycles should especially pay attention to this.
When installing a new bike chain on high-speed models, the chain should be shortened. Several links. But to determine how many specific links need to be removed, there are two possible methods:
- Pull the chain at the front and rear over the largest sprockets. And then pull on the chain, moving the rear derailleur forward and to the limit. It remains to add 2 links, and you get a chain of the optimal length.
- Or the chain needs to be thrown from the front to the largest sprocket, from the back to the smallest. And pull the chain until the rear ejector frame is in position straight down and the derailleur rollers do not form a horizontal line. This is the optimal chain length, the excess must be removed, and the missing add.
On two-suspension bicycles, adjust the chain (or rather, adjust its length) more correctly by pressing down the swingarm until the front star cassette is farthest from the ratchet. The resulting chain length is measured-noted, and all unnecessary is removed.
Conventional speedless bikes are equipped with collapsible chains, one of the links of which has a special lock. But on professional bikes, one-piece chain structures are installed, all links of which are perfectly riveted.
However, disassembling a one-piece bicycle chain is also easy. And this can be done in one of two possible methods:
- grind the pin heads with sandpaper on one of the chain links;
- or using the universal tool squeeze.
By the way, it is not for nothing that the squeeze is called universal. It can not only squeeze out the pin, but also securely fix the newly assembled bicycle chain. After all, the squeeze (well, at least most of them) have a couple of special functional and technological grooves. And one of these grooves the pin is pressed out of the roller, and the other pressed in. As for the installation place, which is located on the squeeze a little further from the pressing screw, it is intended for riveting the chain pin itself.
Slipping like a chain drive defect
Every cyclist knows the problem of chain slippage. The chain will stretch over time and the tension will weaken. In addition, chain elongation leads to early wear of the bike sprockets. It would seem, what is easier you just need to remove 2 links. But feature that this can be done only once, and then the chain must be changed.
And further. New chain on old ratchet this is absolutely not ice ;. Slipping will probably remain on small sprockets. So you need to change the ratchet too.
How to put on the chain lock correctly. How to replace a chain on a bicycle?
The chain is the key element of the bike’s transmission assembly. Sequentially passing through the teeth of the drive sprockets, it transmits torque to the rear wheel, thanks to which the bike rides. In the process of movement, the chain mechanism is subjected to dynamic loads, which over time leads to its wear.
On singlespeeds, as a rule, the chain is designed for the entire life of its operation: when moving along the stars, it runs smoothly and straight, without deviations. Chains are more complicated on multi-speed bicycles: there is no right angle between the front and rear sprockets, which is why it is always at an angle relative to the frame. The stresses on the chain mechanism increase several times compared to the parallel transmission, which leads to periodic wear. To avoid damage to the entire transmission unit caused by wear of the chain, it must be replaced in time.
Not only do the “speed” chains need to be removed, they are often removed from single-speed bikes for periodic repairs or cleaning. How to remove the chain from the bike and put it back, we will tell you in this article.
First of all, attention should be paid to chain malfunctions on multi-speed bikes. Traditionally, the travel time is determined by the mileage, but these values are too approximate, because everything depends on the conditions of cycling: road quality, gear selection, speed, load on the pedals and, accordingly, on the chainring.
The first signs of a bike chain failure are inaccurate gear shifting and suspicious sounds (provided the chain has not lost its lubrication). The following method will probably help to determine the malfunction: bend it away from the largest sprocket and see the number of free teeth. If the chain leaves three or more teeth freely, then replacement is required urgently. Two prongs “warn” that wear is not far off, but you can still ride.
Using the same method, you can see the weakening of the chain on a single-speed bike: bend it away from the chainring and see the number of teeth.
Another way to measure wear is to measure length:
- 304.8mm. Optimum Chain Length.
- 306.5. 307.5. average wear, suitability for repair. You can still ride.
- 308 mm. high degree of wear on both chain and stars.
- than 308 mm. damage to the entire transmission.
Measuring elongation requires removing the chain completely from the bike.
Lock and solid chain
The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put on it. you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, we carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a detachable link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: a tick is put on top, which fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer’s inscription is usually embossed on the key link. If you cannot find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.
A bicycle chain without a lock simply cannot be disconnected: all the links on it look the same, however, and are hooked to each other too. This is a great inconvenience when cleaning, for example, it is necessary to carry out a “general cleaning” in a solvent. In the case of the keylock, everything is simple. he stole it and put it in kerosene. Solid bike chain, even taken off the stars, will remain hanging on the frame.
In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is certainly more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason, the fastening may become loose: the tick fly off, and the link itself can be disengaged. There are no such weak points on bicycle chains without locks, and if it is torn, then the point is solely in its quality.
Opening the lock and pressing the link axis
Opening the lock is quite simple: use a screwdriver or other object (for example, a knitting needle) to pry on the clamp clamp. The main thing here is not to damage it, or even better. not to lose it, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the chain later. Next, we disengage the entire link. That’s it, you can remove the chain and do whatever you want with it: clean it, throw it away or shorten it. However, we’ll talk about this a little later.
A solid chain can only be disconnected with a special tool. a squeeze. With its help, it will be possible to easily disassemble the link without damage. The procedure is simple, but you shouldn’t rush:
- First, select the link for disassembly.
- We insert the chain into the position of pressing out and pressing in the pin (link axis).
- Use the handle to tighten the screw and take out the axle. Extrusion direction. towards the pressing screw, that is, towards yourself.
You should not completely remove the pin, since it will not be easy to return it later.
The squeeze loosens the axle a little, therefore, when re-uncoupling, another link should be selected. Pressing the axle into the link is carried out in the opposite order: connect the adjacent links together and press the pin in with a screw.
Elimination of defects
A common form of wear is chain slack when chain length increases from original length. Previously, the critical values of the length of the bicycle chain were considered, at which it cannot be used. Everything is correct, but the chain does not have to be thrown away immediately, but it can be repaired. Under prolonged loads, the axles loosen, which causes longitudinal and lateral expansion. It is impossible to eliminate the transverse, but it is quite possible to tinker with the longitudinal.
It is necessary to remove unnecessary links in such a way that the chain calmly, without interference, passes over the large star. With the help of a squeeze, excess links are removed, the axial shafts are completely pulled out from the removed elements. The main thing here is not to make a mistake and not pull out too many links.
If you have to ride with an extended chain, then in order to avoid its falling off, you can install so-called chain dampers. parts that prevent the chain from flying off when driving. There are several types of such devices:
- Roller with two clips.
- Wide rollers.
- Frame (or rollerless).
Using pacifiers as protection is fine, but it would be better to consider changing the circuit.
Fitting the chain to the bike
To put the chain on the singlespeed, it is enough to hang it on both stars, press in the pin or click the lock. With high-speed bikes it will be a little more difficult:
- Fix switches to small stars.
- Considering the position of the tensioning rollers, put the chain on the stars.
- Combine links.
- Clamp the chain and press in the axle. If the bike chain has a lock, we do without squeezing.
After the installation is completed, it is necessary to check the course of the chain: turn the pedals several times. If no sagging or obstruction is observed during torsion, then the chain is of the optimal length and is installed correctly.
Every owner of a two-wheeled horse will be able to cope with the removal and installation of a bicycle chain. An uncomplicated and simple procedure will not take much time, but it will perfectly help on further trips!
Removing the chain from a bike
The need to remove the bicycle chain occurs when it needs to be replaced, thoroughly washed or boiled in grease (in the case of a single-speed chain). Therefore, a small beginner’s guide.
It is possible to remove the chain from the bike only by removing the axle connecting the links (pin). You can squeeze out a pin without a tool, right in the field placing the chain on the edge of a hard object and tapping the axle with a thin knitting needle.
Unfortunately, this method will not allow you to assemble the chain back, because there will be nothing to press in the pin. Therefore, to remove the bicycle chain you need to have a special tool squeeze, it is best to take a multitool, which includes all basic bicycle keys, including squeeze. I have one like this. very satisfied.
The chain link must be placed on the squeeze so that the pin is directly in front of the tool release axis. Then just twist the knob gently and the pin is squeezed out.
The main thing is to stop at the end so that the pin does not pop out completely, otherwise then your vocabulary will not have enough swear words to push it back.
Below is a video showing what I’m talking about (1:05).
In general, ideally, I recommend putting the lock on the chain, this allows you to remove and put the chain on the bike instantly.
When installing the chain on a multi-speed bike, you need to follow the pattern of pulling along the rollers of the rear derailleur, I painted in red in this picture:
Everything is very simple, and there is absolutely no need to go to the bike master because of some minor problem with the transmission.
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How to change the chain on a bicycle
Why is it necessary to change the chain?
It is recommended to change the bicycle chain every one and a half to two thousand kilometers, since it is subject to a lot of wear and tear, specifically. stretched. This is not surprising, since a huge load falls on this part of the transmission, a large longitudinal force, which leads to the removal of the chain elements from each other, which entails a number of unpleasant consequences. This is, first of all, the slippage of the chain, which will occur with a large load applied to the connecting rod. Thus, it will be quite difficult to reach high speed on a bicycle with a worn chain, and even about steep climbs you will have to forget about it.
The second unpleasant consequence of chain wear will be difficult gear shifting. When you try to throw the chain from one sprocket to another, it will jump off, not being able to rigidly fix on the teeth of the sprocket. Consequently, all the advantages of a bicycle with a large number of speeds come to naught.
If for the everyday use of a cheap bike the listed problems are not so terrible, then professional athletes and advanced amateurs lose most of the advantages of their expensive, fancy bikes.
How to determine chain wear?
After making sure of the need to periodically change the circuit, you should proceed to explaining the process itself. First of all, you should learn how to determine the moment when the chain requires replacement, because it is difficult to systematically monitor the mileage. The most accurate way to determine the degree of wear is to measure the distance from the center of an arbitrary pin (the axis connecting the links) to the center of the twenty-fourth pin after it with a simple ruler. This distance should be 304.8-306.4 mm. If the measured distance exceeds the recommended one. chain needs replacement.
How to change the chain?
There are two types of chains: with a lock and with a pin. The first case is not of particular interest, since such chains are used on children’s bicycles and their replacement is not difficult, for this you only need a screwdriver.
The situation is more interesting with the second type of chains. chain with pin. First of all, you need a special tool. squeezing the chain. It is highly discouraged to remove such a chain using available tools. The chain extractor is used to connect and connect the links of the bicycle chain. The sequence of actions when working with this tool is as follows:
That’s it, now the chain is disconnected, you can remove it and put a new one. The process of installing a new chain is fundamentally no different from the process of removing it.
Removing the chain from a bike
If the bike chain starts to make noise and it slows down, it will need to be repaired or replaced. To do this, the chain must be removed from the bike. to clean and replace worn links. The same procedure is required after installing sprockets with increased or decreased number of teeth. In this case, you need to add or remove links, respectively, which cannot be done without removing the chain from the bike. If this is done incorrectly, then subsequently problems will arise with the chain that will require its replacement.
- – keys set;
- – chain wringer;
- – screwdriver;
- – pliers.
Remove the chain from the bike sprockets. To do this, turn it over, placing it on the handlebar and saddle. Then unscrew the rear wheel nuts holding it to the frame. Carefully free the chain from the rear sprocket or from the chain feed rollers on a multi-speed bike and remove the rear wheel. Next, release the chain from the front sprocket. It will be fixed on the frame, therefore, in order to remove it, you will need a special device for squeezing the chain.
Insert the selected link into the wringer and secure with the special knurled screw. This will secure the chain to the device. Fix the link so that the pin (chain peg) is exactly opposite the release axis of the device. After that, simply rotate the release shaft handle, which is attached to the bolt, and it will squeeze out the desired pin. Be sure to control this process so that it does not squeeze completely out of the outside of the link. If this happens, it will be very difficult to insert it back.
After squeezing out the pin, the chain will open on its own, remove it from the bike and perform the necessary operations. Be sure to make sure that the extruded pin is not lost. If you need to shorten the chain, remove the required number of links using a chain breaker. In the event that you need to increase its length, insert the links. After that, assemble the chain directly on the frame, insert the rear wheel into the connectors, and pull the chain over the sprockets, and then fasten the wheel with nuts. After pedaling several times, make sure that the mechanism works without effort and does not create unnecessary noise.
There are bicycle chain options, one link of which is a lock. In this case, find such a link to remove the chain from the bike. Use a screwdriver to bend the lock plate and remove it with pliers, after which the chain will disconnect. But when choosing a new bike chain, be sure to keep in mind that this option is less durable and reliable.
How to put a chain on a speed bike circuit. How to replace the chain on a bicycle with speeds. video instruction
How to replace the chain on a bicycle with speeds. video instruction
Any vehicle needs maintenance. Bicycles are not exempt. Their key element in the transmission unit is the chain. Speed bikes have a lot of finickyness to function properly. The frequency of chain replacement or maintenance is largely determined by the riding style. For example, trial cycling lovers do this while riding. When and how to change the chain on a speed bike?
What you need to know about the types of bicycle chains?
Bicycle chains come in two types: lock and solid. Disconnecting the lock variation is not difficult. It is convenient to do this with a regular thread (wire), threading it into adjacent links (before and in front of the lock) and tightening the loop. The main thing is to avoid damage to the lock and not lose it.
Opening a continuous chain is possible only with a special squeeze, although the procedure itself also cannot be classified as difficult tasks:
- It will be necessary to install the chain in the position of pressing-pressing the axle.
- Tightening the pin pull-out screw.
Axial pressing is characterized by the opposite sequence: connecting the links and pressing the pin by means of a screw.
Note. The use of the squeeze is accompanied by loosening of the axle, therefore, repeating the release is the lot of another link.
What tools are important to have to replace the chain:
- The key used to remove the rear wheel.
- Pliers to hold segments and pins.
- Squeeze. As noted above, this device is used to press out and press in the pins.
Chain Removal Procedure in Standard Variation. Step by Step Instructions
Cyclists who do not have sufficient experience in such matters are advised to memorize the general diagram, which reflects the location of the chain on the system, cassette, switches. Then the procedure for its subsequent installation will not cause difficulties.
As soon as all the nuances are fixed in memory (or on paper), you can proceed to further steps:
- Cleaning links from dirt accumulations. If this is not done, dirt will be a significant obstacle to the next steps.
- Removing the rear wheel. The absence of this detail simplifies all actions, although experienced craftsmen safely skip this stage. In fact, it does not apply to mandatory measures.
- Extrusion of the pin present in all links (the metal cylinder that closes the link). This is where the pomace applies.
- Disconnecting one link.
- Withdrawing extreme links from the switch system.
At this point, the removal of the chain (worn out or requiring cleaning) can be considered complete. The procedure itself is quite easy if you have a tool and basic knowledge. Accuracy of execution and the absence of forceful actions during the pressing process are very important.
Step-by-step process for installing a bicycle chain in the form of instructions
With bicycles that have one gear (singlespeeds), everything is limited to a chain canopy on a part of a star configuration and a latching snap-in or pressing in a pin. The design of high-speed bike bikes suggests some difficulties in this issue.
They can be designated by the following points:
- Locking derailleurs on small transmission stars.
- Next, a chain is put on the teeth of the stars. In this case, it is important to take into account the location of the rollers involved in its tension.
- Then the chain links are aligned.
- The chain is clamped and the axle is pressed in or the lock is closed.
At the final stage, the move is checked. For this purpose, the pedals are rotated. Incorrect installation is characterized by sagging of the installed element and difficult twisting. If this is not observed, the installation of the chain is done according to all the rules.
In what cases, besides wear, the chain is removed:
- For deep cleaning when it is necessary to remove lubricant and accumulated abrasive.
- To replace damaged links.
How is chain wear determined??
A failed chain stretches, its links shift, harming the sprockets, which negatively affects the switches. It is difficult to visually determine the degree of wear.
Therefore, they use a simple measurement, that is, you need to measure twenty-four links, or rather their total length:
- With a size of 30.5 cm, we can talk about the normal state of the chain.
- An indicator of 30.65-30.75 cm indicates the need for replacement.
Note. A wear value of 30.75 cm indicates a damaged sprocket set. If the length of the measured links reaches 30.8 cm, then the transmission is damaged.
By the way, cutting the stretched chain does not solve the problem. Stretching is characterized by a uniform distribution. In this case, damage to the stars cannot be avoided. As you know, “star” parts cannot be repaired. It is cheaper to change the chain than to replace more expensive components.
A video plot will tell you how to replace a chain on a bicycle
How to install a bicycle chain
There are many reasons why you should replace your chain, the most important of which. these are pivot joints due to gear slippage due to wear and stretching of the chain links. If neglected, a worn chain will almost certainly lead to poor shifting, excessive wear on the transmission on your groupset, and even loss of efficiency, which can even lead to chain breakage.
Tools needed to remove and replace your bike chain (Image courtesy of Aaron Borrill)
But why is such an elementary element as a chain source of such serious concern? Well, given that changing your chain is much cheaper than replacing the cassette or chainrings, regularly checking and replacing your chain will save you money over time and keep your drivetrain in top condition.
You will need several tools to get the job done, such as a chain checker, a chain breaker, master link pliers, latex gloves, chain lubricant and of course a new chain.
Image 1 of 2
Checking the chain will show how worn out your chain is and how soon it will need to be replaced (Image courtesy of Aaron Borrill) Image 2 of 2
Three steps show if the chain is in order, wear. or worn out (Image credit: Aaron Borrill)
Check for wear
There are several methods of monitoring wear, but checking the chain. the most accurate way to make sure your chain is okay. Basically, if the 0.5 inch side of a chain checker is between the links (0.5 is the industry standard) your chain is 0.5% longer than it was new and is nearing the limit of what is considered acceptable. If the side of the 0.75 ” block has fallen, it is highly recommended to install a new chain.
Park Tool’s Best CC-2 Chain Checker
Park Tool Chain Checker CC-2.
Park Tool Chain Checker CC-2
The master link pliers are designed to easily split the cotter pin. removing the chain (Image credit: Aaron Borril)
2.Remove the worn out chain
The most common way to remove a worn chain. use a tool to break the circuit. This is a relatively simple exercise, requiring little effort to push one of the pins out of the chain. To do this, position the links between the teeth of the breaker so that the chain pin aligns with the opposite tip of the pin tool, and gradually turn the handle until the pin pops out.
For chains that use a quick link, the easiest way to remove the chain is. use pliers for the main links. Simply place the pliers on each side of the chain quick connect in the smallest rings and squeeze the handles. As soon as you hear a click, simply disconnect the link and carefully remove the chain by rotating the crank arms back and gently pulling the chain from the end of the rear derailleur.
Park Tool CT-3.2 Chain Tool
Park Tool MLP-1.2 Bicycle.
How to shift gears on a bike
Gear Shifting 101: How and When to Use Gears
Along with the brakes, gear shifting is one of the basic mechanical functions of your bike. Learning how to shift gears may seem basic, but practice gear shifting and shifting effectively. this is something that even experienced riders can work on. Correct gearing will not only improve your speed, but also make the ride more comfortable and increase your endurance on long journeys.
What does all of this mean ?!
Terminology. one of the hardest things about learning how to switch Low / High, Large / Small, Light / Hard, Fast / Slow, Front / Rear, One by One, Twice, Three for. if your head is already spinning you can brush up on the following dictionary words:
Low gear = Easy = Good for climbing: “Low” gear on your bike. it is the smallest chain ring in the front and the largest gear on your cassette (reverse gears). This position will be the easiest to pedal, and you will be able to pedal uphill with minimal resistance. Getting into this position is called “downshifting”.
High gear = Stiff = Good for downhill: “High” gear on your bike. this is the largest chain ring at the front and the smallest gear on your cassette (reverse gears). This position will be the hardest to pedal and will allow you to accelerate when going downhill. To get into this position, it is called “upshifting”.
_- Speed Bike: When you were a kid, you probably bragged to your friends about how many “speeds” your bike has. Whether it’s 7, 18, 21-speed, etc., that’s what you had in mind. this is the number of gears on your bike. You can determine this number by multiplying the number of teeth in your cassette (rear gears) by the number of chain links (front gears) on your bike. For example, if your bike has two chain rings and 11 teeth in the cassette, then you have a 21-speed bike. However, in today’s bicycle industry, expensive adult bikes are rarely referred to this way because, in fact, bigger doesn’t always mean better. on this below!
One, Two, Three-Po: The number of chain links (front gears) on your bike determines whether your drivetrain (gear system) will be referred to as one-on-two, two-on, or triple-decker. the bicycle industry. strive to produce the same gear range with fewer chain rings. The result is a larger cassette (rear gears) that has more teeth and often more teeth on the largest gear train in the cassette. What for? Because, in general, fewer chainrings make the bike more efficient, lighter, and easier to operate and adjust. For this reason, you will often see single drivetrains on high-end mountain bikes and dual drivetrains on high-end road bikes.
How to switch: the basics
So now that you have a basic understanding of what these gears are called, how do you shift? Depending on the type of bike, your shifters may differ slightly; on road bikes (or any bike with a folding handlebar), your derailleurs. these are the same levers you use to engage the brakes. To operate the switches, push the lever to the side until you hear a click. For most flat handlebar mountain and hybrid bikes, you shift gears with paddles that you control with your thumb. Some bicycles are equipped with “grip switches” or a disc that is located inside where you place your hands. In these systems, you change gears by turning the disc forward and backward.
Your shifters are connected to a cable enclosed in a protective sheath. When you click on the gears, the cable tightens and looses, applying more or less force to the derailleur, which moves your chain up and down the cassette or chain rings. Below we explain what each lever does:
Left hand: Controls the forward gears / front derailleur. moving the chain up and down the chain rings. These levers cause large jumps, gears when changing terrain.
Right hand: Controls the reverse gears / rear derailleur. moving the chain up and down the cassette. These levers are designed for small adjustments, transmission and use on small terrain changes.
Large lever: The larger of the two gear levers moves the chain onto the large rings. So big = big. Switching to large rings with your RIGHT hand will make pedaling EASIER. Shifting into higher gears with the LEFT hand will make it HEAVY.
Small lever: The smaller of the two gear levers moves the chain to smaller rings. So small = small. Shifting down to smaller rings with the RIGHT hand will make the pedal press HARD. LEFT-handed downshifts will make pedaling EASIER.
No big / small leverage? You may have a SRAM road drivetrain that uses a “double-push” system. This means that there is a smaller lever hidden behind the large brake lever and you can only move it in one direction. A long press (with two clicks) will move the chain to a simpler gear at the rear (right) and a larger and harder gear at the front (left). A short press (with one click) will move the chain to a stiffer, smaller gear at the back (right) and a smaller, lighter gear at the front (left hand).
You may also have a handle shift. This means you have a dial that you turn back and forth to change gears. Turning the dial forward will shift the chain to a smaller and lighter gear in the back (right hand) and a smaller and lighter gear in the front (left hand). Turning the disc back will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear in the back (right hand) and a larger and lighter gear. harder front gear (left hand).
Cross chaining. a term that refers to being in one of the following gear combinations:
BIG / BIG: Largest cassette tooth (lightest gear) and largest star ring (hardest gear))
SMALL / SMALL: Smallest tooth in the cassette (hardest gear) and smallest chain link (lightest gear)
In these positions, the chain stretches at an angle, which over time can damage the transmission and can cause the chain to slip or cause the front derailleur to make noise and malfunction.
Using the trim function
Some road bikes have a “trim” front derailleur. The pad allows minor changes to the front derailleur to eliminate chain friction, but not cause a complete shift to a different chain ring. This feature will come in handy when approaching the “cross chain” positions mentioned above.
So, if you are in the largest chain ring and start shifting to the large barbs on the cassette with your right hand, you may start to hear a grinding noise that indicates your chain is rubbing against the front derailleur. You can flick the small lever with your left hand once. to move the front derailleur slightly to match this chain position. Likewise, if you are in the smallest chain ring and start to shift to the smaller prongs on the cassette and start to notice a grinding noise, you can move the switch slightly by pressing the larger lever once with your left hand.
Effective and efficient gear shifting techniques
Okay, here’s the most important thing to remember when riding any bike: THERE IS NO PERFECT GEAR! SHIFT!
Very often we see people putting too much energy into their pedals when they climb a steep hill in a large chain ring, or swing their legs when they are spinning in a gear that is too easy for the descent they are riding. driving time. keep your cadence as constant as possible (the speed at which your pedals make a full revolution)! This requires one of two things: shifting gears or increasing power output. The problem with power output is that unless you’re Wonder Woman, you have a limited supply of power. We recommend changing gears frequently to improve efficiency while riding.
Liv’s Tip: Start shifting to lighter gears with your right hand early to maintain a steady rhythm. Remember, your right hand is for small terrain changes. If you find that your pedaling speed is slowing down dramatically, you may need to use the front derailleur (left hand) to make it easier to shift gears during large uphills in front. But if you’re already uphill and putting out a ton of power to the pedals, you might notice that your front derailleur doesn’t want to work! You will move, hear a grinding noise, but nothing happens and you will most likely stop in the middle of a hill.
Instead of chafing these gears, you will need to apply a little more power to the pedal travel right before shifting, then reduce the pedal travel when shifting. With less pressure on your chain, it will be easier for your derailleur to remove your chain from the larger ring to the smaller one.!
4 conclusions from the CyclingTips Ultimate Chain test
Of course, chains are much more important to road bikers, where every watt lost can mean a big loss over the long ride, but we mountain bikers have a lot to learn from this too, especially since some mountain bike chains have been supplied. through the wringer together with the road chains.
We’d recommend reading the entire best bike chain test, but if you just want to figure it out, here are four key takeaways.
There are clear differences between chain brands
Chain. is it just a chain? Apparently not, according to this investigation. CyclingTips found a power difference of up to 4 watts between the most (11-speed Shimano) and least efficient (SRAM Eagle X01) chain. Keep in mind that this is only one part of the drivetrain and SRAM says performance testing is only valid if it is done for the entire drivetrain and they believe their drivetrains generally perform comparable to the competition. However, 4W. this is a pretty significant drawback, especially if your ultimate goal. efficiency.
There was also a huge difference in the strength of the chains tested. CyclingTips believes you can use thousands of miles more using the toughest (SRAM XX1) than the least reliable (KMC X11E). According to Adam Crane, “SRAM claims to be the longest chain in the world since their XX1 and they are not kidding. Both X01 and XX1 chains outpaced any other chain in net elongation so much that I had to repeat the test and the results were mostly identical. Their longevity is phenomenal. “.
teeth = more strength
Tests have shown that the more teeth a chain is designed to work, the stronger it is. This may contradict the conventional wisdom that older 8-, 9- and even 10-speed systems offer wider barb widths, which increases chain surface area and should make them more durable. However, here everything was the other way around.
The reason for this is less clear, but some materials have been improved, manufacturing processes have been improved and new low friction coatings have been added. Similarly, the design of the chains has changed, and where in 8- and even 9-speed chains, the inner links rotate. exclusively on connecting pins, in newer chains these forces are usually distributed between the pins and specially stamped plates.
Your lubrication is as important as your chain
The chains were tested using a specially formulated lubricant to accelerate chain wear during the test. This showed that no matter how strong the chain is, the lubricant you use will play the most important role in the longevity of the drivetrain. Crane apparently sharpened an infinite number of sprockets and cassettes with any chain that crossed the 2500 km mark effectively destroying the rest of the drivetrain before it crashed. As always, use a good lubricant and keep the transmission clean. here’s a real way to get the most out of your drivetrain components.
Most brands offer good options
One of the main findings of the study is that there is probably nothing wrong with having stock already; Shimano’s chains seem to be the most efficient on the market, but still have decent durability. SRAM’s chains weren’t quite as effective in this test, but their durability earns them big points and should help them survive mountain bikes all year round, even in the worst conditions. If you currently have a network of warehouse stocks, do not rush to change it, it probably does an excellent job.
However, it makes sense to spend more on big brand chains. For example, the Eagle XO1 and XX1 were noticeably stronger than the NX and GX chains, and if you’re racing, the XTR is more efficient than the XT.
Read the complete test for the best bike chain.
How to convert a mountain bike to a single speed bike
Hopefully my recent post, One Is Enough, convinced some of you to try your hand at solo mountain biking. The good thing about solo riding is that you can do it cheaply by retrofitting a bike you already own for less than 30! You can spend a lot more, but the basic conversion will only allow you to ride in one gear and is ideal if you just want to try a solo sport. Converting an old bike to SS. also a great way to breathe new life into it and finally get it out of the garage and hit the track again.
Riding my SS to help with the One Is Enough article. BrianW decided to convert his old 1991 Trek 830 into an SS. We’ve only done a basic rework on his bike, and that’s what this article is about. Future updates are included at the end, however if you want to do a full, bombproof conversion.
Yes, you can even convert a full suspension bike to an SS. you just need a special tensioner. I used Yess ETR-V to transform my Anthem for my first acquaintance with SS. I liked it so much that I ended up creating a special SS 29er hardtail and ditching Anthem.
Spacer kit. Purchase a kit that includes different sizes of spacers to fine-tune the position of the rear gear for a truly straight chain line. Some cheaper kits only come with two spacers. i don’t recommend them.
Rear hub. if your hub has a steel hub casing (common on most low end bikes) a cheap stamped cog will do, but if your hub has an aluminum hub casing you should get a special SS cog with a wider base to prevent the hub casing from being squeezed out.
Tensioner. it keeps the chain in good condition and tightens and prevents it from falling. There is a small chance that you will not need it, but very small. Take one. you can always pick it up if it turns out that you don’t need it.
Chain. most stainless steel rear cogwheels are not suitable for 9-step chains, so you will need a stainless steel chain or 8-step chain. If you are remodeling an old bike it may already have an 8-speed chain on it, so feel free to reuse this chain on your SS setup as long as it is not too worn out.
Some companies offer stainless steel conversion kits that include spacers, teeth and tensioner, which are easier and cheaper than buying the parts separately.
BrainW purchased Origin8 SS conversion kit that included multiple spacers, two gears and a tensioner.
A quick note on gearing: The gear ratio / combination you use depends on your skill level and where you live. Someone in Denver, Colorado probably needs lighter gear than someone in Savannah, Georgia. Ask in your area for recommendations.
The tools you need
The conversion requires limited mechanical knowledge and only a few bike-specific tools. These are tools that every cyclist should own anyway, as they are essential for basic maintenance / replacement parts. This project. a good reason to get tools if you don’t already have them!
- ruanbian and retaining ring tool. used to remove cassette with rear wheel.
- Chain tool. you need to shorten the chain to the correct size.
- Large adjustable wrench. used to rotate the retainer.
- Various socket wrenches. used to remove the rear derailleur and derailleurs, install the tensioner, etc.
No more extra bits
It’s pretty simple, so I won’t go into details. Just remove all the parts you no longer need:
- front derailleur
- rear derailleur
- front derailleur
- rear derailleur
- all shift cables and housing
I won’t need this bullshit anymore.
Installing and Aligning the Rear Gear
Remove the rear wheel from the frame and the cassette from the hub. Use a whip chain to hold the cassette in place and a retaining ring tool and an adjustable wrench to remove the retaining ring. Once the cassette is off, it’s time to put on the rear gear and line up the chain line. You will need to use a spacer to align the rear gear with the middle ring on the connecting rods. it will take a few tries to get it right.
Place the gear and spacers on the wheels where you think it might be close, but don’t pull the snap ring down too tight. Insert the wheel into the frame and run the chain across the gear and sprocket. Is it straight? Probably no. Remove the rear wheel and move the gear / spacers to get closer. Repeat as needed, and once you’re happy with it, tighten the retaining ring downward. You probably won’t be able to achieve 100% perfect results, but try to get as close to it as possible. A straight chain will run more smoothly, wear much more slowly, and are less likely to bounce off the chainring.
Nice straight chain.
Council. It is difficult to tell if the chain is straight just by looking at it; none of the frame tubes will be parallel to the chain, so it is difficult to visualize it. Here’s what I do: Place a ruler (I use a level) on the chainrings going back towards the rear wheel. If the chain is straight, it will remain at the same distance from the straight edge to the end.
Straight edge makes it easy to tell if your chain is good.
Setting the chain length and tensioner
We’re almost done! It’s time to shorten the chain to the desired length. Without a tensioner on the bike, wrap the chain around the middle chainring and rear gear. Figure out where you need to remove the excess chain. you want the chain to be as short as possible and then reconnect the remaining chain. Chances are the chain will be too long and you will have slack, but the tensioner is designed to do just that. If you’re lucky, the gear combination and chainstay length will work perfectly and you won’t need a tensioner. But this is rare.
The chain on the BrianW bike didn’t quite line up so we had to use a tensioner. When you shorten the chain make sure to disassemble it in the right place so you have a pair of outer links at one end and inner links at the other. impossible to connect two sets of external links!
The easiest way to install a tensioner is to remove the wheel pulley so as not to struggle with the chain. The tensioner should have a spring pin close to the switch suspension mount. this pin must be in the “hook” of the switch suspension. The pulley is usually adjustable, so you can adjust it according to the chain line.
Looking through the wheel, you can see the spring pin sitting on the derailleur suspension hook.
Some tensioners are designed to lower the chain, others. to lift the chain up, and some can work in any direction. A tensioner that pushes the chain upward is desirable because it forces the chain to wrap around the rear gear better, so more teeth engage the chain and there is less chance of chain slipping or falling. However, a decent tensioner that puts pressure on the chain will work too.
The Origin8 tensioner presses on the chain. This bike is ready to ride!
Ok, done! Ride and enjoy the ease of single skating.
To do everything
There are a few additional updates you can make to improve SS customization for long term use.
Chainring in stainless steel. The special stainless steel chainring will have no derailleur pins / ramps and will have taller and wider teeth than the derailleur ring. Higher / wider teeth are stronger and better grip on the chain, reducing the chance of chain slipping and dropping.
Wider SS cog. all conversion kits are supplied with rear teeth stamped from a flat piece of steel. They are thin and, under high load, can cut into the cassette housing on the hub, especially if it is a lightweight aluminum housing. True SS teeth are made from a large piece of metal and have a wider base to distribute the load and prevent damage to your expensive hubs.
Stainless steel sprocket bolt. these shorter bolts will allow you to remove the large ring from your connecting rod. Less weight, more ground clearance and no open teeth that could cut into the leg in an accident. And it looks nice and clean.
Old BrainW bike is now ready to hit the road again!
How to properly chain a speed bike. How to install a chain on a bike
Let’s start disassembling the bike chain. Everyone knows why you need a chain on a bicycle. Next, you need to put a chain on both sprockets of the bike. On regular road bikes, chain tightening is not that difficult. For some reason, then the chains served almost longer than the bicycle itself. The fact is that in such bicycles the machine is responsible for the chain tension. In order to disconnect the bicycle chain, we installed a special lock on it, shown in Fig. 14.
An important element for the bike’s performance is the chain, the life of which depends on timely care. When working, it should not crack and creak. When adjusted correctly, the chain should have a slack of 10-12 mm. When pulling with your fingers, it should give in by 10-15 mm, and if this value is greater, then it must be pulled. Note that this is only relevant for bicycles or without derailleurs, or with planetary gears.
When the chain is too tight, it becomes very difficult to pedal on the bike, the parts of the chain drive wear out quickly. The amount of chain tension on a bike with a rear parallelogram derailleur is determined entirely by the force of the derailleur spring. But if the chain is too long, then this tensioner will not be able to compensate for its slack, and it will begin to hit the frame. This is especially true for bicycles with a short rear thrower.
This primarily applies to two-suspension bicycles. Very often, when installing a new chain on a high-speed bike, it is necessary to shorten its length, that is, remove several links. On double suspensions, it will be more correct to adjust the chain length by pressing the rear swingarm down to the position when the front sprocket cassette is as far as possible from the rear ratchet.
The chain starts to slip when the tension is released due to its extreme tension. If this is not the first time you pull up the old chain, get ready to replace it soon. The bicycle chain is one of the most important parts of this mode of transport.
In addition, they are the driven link of the bicycle gearbox. At the same time, it is not difficult to guess that if the chain comes off, the transport will not be able to go further. In the event of a collapse or breakage of the bicycle chain, with the best outcome, the driver will get off with the fact that he cannot continue to ride. But often there are more serious consequences. For example, if there is no special guard on the rear wheel, the chain can fall into the spokes, but here the outcome is unfavorable in all cases.
The next danger in the event of chain breakage or loosening applies to those bicycles that do not have a hand brake. Before you start to tension the chain, it is important to understand one truth.
Another symptom that should alert the driver is if the chain began to slip. To begin with, the problem of sagging is most often encountered by owners of regular single-speed bicycles. The thing is that here the chain is not able to stretch automatically, as in mountain or other similar types of bicycles. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, any chain has the property of stretching, despite the fact that it is made of metal.
How to install a chain on a bike
On the simplest single gear bike, a single wrench is all it takes to tension the chain, simply loosen the two rear wheel nuts. Most often this is a key of either 17 or 15. First, the bike must be turned upside down, and then slightly loosen the two nuts on the rear wheel. If you encounter the problem of chain slack on a mountain bike or any other that has several gears, then in such a situation it is changed.
Adjusting the chain on speed bikes
To save money, some craftsmen “cut” the chain, that is, cut it and reduce the number of links. Of course, this option is also possible, but it is important to understand that an extended chain is a worn out mechanism and it will not last long.
For people who still remember Salyut bicycles, the suggestion “to choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds somewhat wild. The answer is simple: in those bicycles only one speed was provided, so the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bicycles.
How to quickly pull a chain on a bike
The most popular manufacturers are KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers, you can find chains of various and qualities. All these chains easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can go through the chains indefinitely until he finds the one that will completely suit him. When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the marking: usually firms put information about the quality of the chain in the number designation of the model.
Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often signal that it is worn out. TIP! Experts recommend having three chains “on the farm”: each of them should be operated for 500-600 km, then change them, choosing the shortest.
Chain: choice and proper care
It is mounted at the back. It is rare on professional bicycles, more often on ordinary ones. To begin with, it is reasonable to simply understand whether it is necessary to engage in tensioning the chain on a bicycle or change it, since this step is important for adequate work great. If it becomes difficult to adjust the gearshift settings on a speed bike.
Loosely tense and tensely taut are equally problematic when driving, so it is important to stop in time to keep the chain at medium tension. In this case, your task to ensure that the length of the chain is the same as it was originally. For a high-speed bike, if the first two methods of tightening the links did not give the desired result, then you can try two other methods. The first method works only for already trained high-speed bicycles with a weakened spring, that is, with an old speed switch.
How to put on a bicycle chain will be described below, but for now we will consider how to disassemble a bicycle chain to repair it. As a result, the chain has lengthened slightly and will fall off when cycling. In order to put on a bicycle chain after repair, you must first open it and pass it through the frame of the machine.
For bicycles, chains are produced with and without locks. In this article I will write how to remove the chain from the bike for cleaning and lubrication, or to replace it when it is already worn out.
Removing the chain from a bike
With a lock
To remove the chain, you need to open the lock. There are several types of locks, but the processes for opening them are similar, for this you need to close the axles of the lock and remove the cover.
If you have problems opening the locks, you can use tools such as special pliers to open locks.
If the bike has a chain without a lock, then you will have to press the axle out of the chain link. Also, this process will need to be carried out in order to reduce the number of chain links when necessary.
A special tool is required to press out the chain axle. squeezing the chain. For this operation, you can select any link in the chain, the only condition is, when re-pressing it is better to use a new one, since after the operation the link loosens a little.
Insert the chain link into the tool and secure with the screw. Please note that in some chain releasers there are two seats, one for pressing out the axle (it is closer to the locking screw), and the second is used only for adjusting the axle. Tighten the squeeze screw carefully, thereby extruding the axle.
Do not push the axle out to the end if you plan to assemble a link with the same axle, otherwise it will be problematic to install it back.!
How to install a chain on a bike
Before installing the chain, you need to make sure it fits your bike in length and width. A special axle with a pointed end is usually sold with a chain. It serves to facilitate installation, after pressing the axle, this end must be broken off with pliers. Also, the axle can already be installed in place if the chain is supplied without a special axle.
To install the chain, move the front and rear derailleurs to the small sprockets. Then pass the chain through the derailleur tension frame, do not mix up the directions, the lower roller runs the chain to the left and the upper to the right.
We connect the open links, install the axis. We insert the link into the chain squeeze and fix it with a fixing screw. Press the axle into place by rotating the chain release handle, it should line up with the edges of the chain. Remove the chain from the squeeze, if necessary break off the end of the axle.
Check that this chain link bends freely, if it runs tight, then it is necessary to adjust the axle with a squeeze. In this case, insert the link into the second seat of the squeeze, then you can see both ends of the axle.
Fitting the bike chain.
On domestic road bikes, the chains are split, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bicycles, it is impossible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.
When buying a new chain, you need to find out which chains fit the system and cassette on your bike. For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm chain like SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93. For 6.8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm chain like SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.
Chains are sold in two types. boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM deliveries). Usually the box contains a replaceable axle for connecting chain segments. One end of such an axle is sharpened to facilitate installation. After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.
If the chain is not equipped with a special shaft with a pointed end (like many chains sold without a box), then the shaft must be inserted into one of the segment plates.
Installing the chain.
Before installing the chain, set the front and rear derailleur to the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.
We put the chain on the bike. It is important to slide the chain onto the tensioner rollers correctly. The lower roller bypasses the chain on the left, and the upper one. on right.
We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then we insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.
We fill the chain in the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo. on the left).
We press the axle into the chain by rotating the squeeze handle. We stop when the axis plunges into the hole almost completely (compare with adjacent links).
We take out the chain from the squeeze.
If we use a replaceable axis, then break off the pointed end with pliers.
We check that the chain just connected in the chain segment just connected, it bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axis protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze.
Now you need to bend the chain a little in the lateral direction to provide better mobility of the links. Done.