How to assemble pads on a bike

How to adjust the brakes on your bike yourself?

The question of how to adjust the brakes on a bicycle is very rarely posed to the owners of modern bicycle bikes, since the quality of modern braking systems is so high that the settings installed at the factory during the production process do not go astray for years. However, in any case, the cyclist needs to know the intricacies of their settings and carry out preventive maintenance at least once a season. This will allow you to extend the life of your bike and protect you from possible accidents that may happen to you on the road.

Adjusting the rim brakes

You can learn how to set up rim brakes on a bicycle by carefully studying the instructions for their design. In addition, information on this topic can be found in abundance on cycling websites. Usually, the process of adjusting the rim brakes does not cause absolutely no problems even for a novice bike rider. The fact is that the main operation for servicing the brakes of such a system is to replace the brake pads, so all the subtleties here will consist in the correct operation of the mechanisms holding them.

assemble, pads, bike

It is worth noting that, in general, most modern bicycles use a V-Brake type of brake pad mount. It is characterized by the presence of split-type levers in their design, made in the form of the letter V. They are connected by a cable held by a jacket. It is about the maintenance of this type of brake system that we will tell.

In order to carry out maintenance of the rim brake, you must:

  • Open the brake, and using force remove the cable jacket from the mount.
  • Unscrew the screw securing it to the frame.
  • Remove the brake mechanism.
  • To work with pads, unscrew the pads fixing screw.

At the same time, be careful not to forget the correct sequence for installing the washers. The fact is that they are mounted in pairs. concave and convex. The correct adjustment of the entire brake system depends on how correctly they are installed.

Finished brake cartridges must match the brakes of the bike exactly

Since the most common operation is brake pad replacement, let’s take a look at it. To do this, you will need to perform all the operations listed above and pry on the old block to remove it. A new one is installed in the vacant place. When performing this work, you must be careful, since you will have to adjust the brake shoe in place.

Attention! In the event that you install ready-made brake cartridges, you will have to carefully ensure that such cartridges exactly fit exactly these brakes.

In addition to replacing the brake pads, they are adjusted on the spot, and the level of cable tension is also controlled. For this, the screw located on the brake lever is tightened to the desired state. As a result of this clockwise rotation, the brake pads move away from each other.

In addition, the tilt of the brake shoe is also adjusted by loosening the fixing screw. If you recently purchased a bicycle and it is difficult for you to follow the procedures described on your own, then in order to learn how to adjust the brakes on a bicycle, you should watch a video on this topic.

If new pads are installed on the bike, then the main thing is to put on spacers and washers in the correct sequence.

Adjust the position of the brake lever and the tension of the cable

To bring the brake lever closer to the steering wheel (for example, so that you do not have to stretch your fingers too much), tighten the bolt on the brake lever.

In this case, keep in mind that you should not bring the handle too close to the steering wheel. It should not touch the grip when fully clamped.

When the position of the brake lever is set, it remains to adjust the cable tension. The task is to bring the pads as close to the rim as possible, leaving a distance of 2-3 millimeters between the pad and the rim.

To do this, you can tighten the cable in two ways:

    For a rough adjustment, if the cable is very weakly tensioned, and the pads are far from the rim: loosen the bolt fixing the cable in the brake lever, tighten the cable, tighten the bolt.

When loosening the bolt, hold the lever and cable so that the cable does not run away and you do not have to re-thread it into the seat.

    for fine tuning, we use the adjusting screw at the point where the shirt comes out with a cable from the brake lever.

To make the screw spin freely, loosen the lock nut by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Turning the screw clockwise, we loosen the cable tension (the pads move away from the rim), unscrewing it counterclockwise, we increase the tension (the pads are closer to the rim). When the pads are in the desired position, tighten the lock nut.

That’s all! Checking how everything works. If necessary, readjust the springs of the levers (item 3).

Braking system characteristics

The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:

  • impact force;
  • efficiency;
  • wear resistance;
  • modulation;
  • service requirements;
  • comparative features.

The force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is required only to completely stop and lock in place. On the road, the effort is not fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the knob is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.

An active cyclist uses his transport not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.

Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the prescriptions for the use of the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements provide guidance on how to properly install and adjust the machine, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.

Types of bicycle brakes

In order to know how to properly set up the brakes on a bicycle, you need to be able to understand their design. Today, modern bicycles are equipped with the following types of brakes: rim, drum and disc. over, each type of brake system is subdivided into subspecies.

  • tick-borne;
  • cantilever;
  • hydraulic;
  • V-brake type.

Drum brakes do not have subspecies, but disc brakes have the following varieties:

Rim brakes are those braking systems in which the wheels of a bicycle are braked by clamping the wheel rim. As a result, the rotation speed is reduced until the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Rim braking systems are among the most common due to their simplicity and low cost. They are used on almost all types of bikes.

Bicycle Hydraulic Brake Device

Drum brakes, or roller brakes, are very similar in principle to those used on cars. Here, the braking elements of the structure are placed inside the wheels, and they stop their movement by pressing against the rotating part of the wheel. Since brakes of this type have a large mass and are rarely repairable in field conditions, do not have sufficient strength, they are usually used on walking bikes.

As for the disc brakes, they are the most common today and they are installed both on cars for beginners and on professional bikes. Their device consists of a disc securely attached to the wheel hub, as well as to the frame or caliper fork, hydraulic tube or cable. The task of the latter is to transfer the force created by the cyclist’s brush when braking to the caliper. This braking system does not need constant tuning, is not afraid of precipitation and cold weather, and has a long period of operation.

Bicycle disc brake device

To know how to set the brakes on a bicycle correctly, you will need to carefully study the design of all types of braking systems. At the same time, some types of bicycles are equipped with rather complex braking systems, and therefore the bicycle owner, in order to have an idea, for example, how to adjust the hydraulic brakes on a bicycle, will need to carefully study the instructions for it. It is worth reading the materials on this topic located on specialized sites dedicated to cycling.

Varieties of rim brakes

Rim brakes are divided into several types:

  • tick-borne;
  • cantilevers;
  • V-brake (vector mechanical);
  • hydraulically driven.

Caliper brakes. previously popular modifications, are now rare on the market. They are a classic model of rim brakes with attachment to the fork or stays of the bicycle frame. Design features and operating principle:

Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment. Linear Pull & V Brake

  • Consist of a handle, a drive cable, two movable bows and brake pads.
  • The handle is attached to the handlebars of the bicycle, a cable is pulled from it and fixed on the clamping side of the arches. The body itself is attached strictly above the wheel, pads are screwed to the lower mounts of the arcs.
  • Through the cable, the force is directly transmitted to the clamping part of the arcs, due to which they are compressed, and the pads are in contact with the rim.
  • Responsible for unclamping is an elastic metal insert or spring built between the levers.

The levers have a single axis of rotation and move towards each other like pliers pincers. Hence the name. tick-borne. Advantages. ease of installation, simple setup. Cons. weak braking force, low modulation, high abrasion of the pads, require frequent debugging. Fits on road racing bikes and optionally as a front rim brake on road models.

Cantilevers belong to the second type of disappearing brakes. The principle of their work is to extend the levers under the action of a taut leash. The principle of operation of the cantilever brake:

  • Through the main cable, the force is transmitted to the jumper.
  • The cable pulls the jumper up, the leash attached to it is pulled.
  • The leash connects both levers, which are rigidly attached to the frame.
  • Due to the convergence of the levers, the pads approach the rim.
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The cantilevers are dirt resistant, will not bump the tire and are easy to install. Significant disadvantages include:

  • decrease in braking force as the leash is pulled;
  • you need to create a high effort to stop the bike completely;
  • difficulty of adjustment.

In justification of the latter, it should be noted that the position of the pads can be adjusted within wide limits.

V-brake is a common type of rim brake on high-speed bicycles. Compared to cantilevers, it has a higher precision and longer shoe longevity. They are also easy to remove and repair yourself.

The vectors are partially similar in design to cantilevers: the front brake levers are bolted to the fork, the rear brake levers are attached to the upper stays. The legs are connected to each other by a pulling cable. The drive cable is brought to one side, but due to the straight shape of the tie, the forces are equally transmitted to both levers.

Hydraulic bicycle rim brakes are a more advanced mechanical model. The drive system consists of a control cylinder, a hydraulic line and power cylinders. The forces from the handle are transmitted to the master cylinder, which, through the oil, acts on the power cylinders. Those, in turn, move the pads towards each other.

Advantages. high compression force and efficiency, excellent modulation. Disadvantages. deterioration of work with a blockage of the hydraulic line, complex repairs. Used a similar type of brakes for freeride and trial.

Rim-type brakes have low brake pad travel, which means they wear less during operation. A significant disadvantage of this approach is the inability to be used on wheels, even with minor rim curvatures. Sensitive brakes will rub against the wheel on the fly, causing reduced speed and increased pad wear.

How to check and adjust the brakes

There are clear instructions for checking and adjusting the brake system of a bicycle. If you adhere to it, then the whole process will take little time and will be effective.

Procedure for checking and adjusting the brake system of a bicycle:

  • Dry brake test. It is necessary to raise the front wheel and, having unwound it, press the left brake lever. If the wheel comes to a sudden stop during this test, the braking system is in order and no maintenance is required. It is worth considering one nuance. if the brake lever touches the steering wheel, then you just need to pull the cable. The operability of the rear wheel brake system is checked in the same manner. To tighten the cable, you need to use curly bolts. just tighten them a little and, if only minor adjustments are required, this will correct the situation. It often happens that such a minimum adjustment does not work. in this case, we look where the end of the cable is on the bike (it is always longer than necessary in advance), unscrew the bolt that holds it. It remains only to tighten part of the cable with pliers and tighten the bolt, applying the possible force.
  • Checking the brake pads. After the brake levers have been tested, the condition of the brake pads should be carefully examined. However, the order of action can be changed. first work with the pads, and then with the handles.

The setting of the brake system for rim and disc type is different, since different rotating mechanisms and pads are used.

How to install and adjust the V-brake yourself

  • Attach the levers to the bike frame.
  • Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
  • Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
  • Connect the cable to the levers and put the spring.

After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

The accuracy of the mechanism depends largely on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in terms of efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to the squeeze of the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On a tight cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

  • Reset Springs.
  • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
  • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position, the distance from the handle to the handlebar corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

If damage is noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of rigid material are placed strictly parallel to the surface of rotation of the wheel.

If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.

Adjust the position of the brake lever and the tension of the cable

To bring the brake lever closer to the steering wheel (for example, so that you do not have to stretch your fingers too much), tighten the bolt on the brake lever.

In this case, keep in mind that you should not bring the handle too close to the steering wheel. It should not touch the grip when fully clamped.

When the position of the brake lever is set, it remains to adjust the cable tension. The task is to bring the pads as close to the rim as possible, leaving a distance of 2-3 millimeters between the pad and the rim.

To do this, you can tighten the cable in two ways:

    For a rough adjustment, if the cable is very weakly tensioned, and the pads are far from the rim: loosen the bolt fixing the cable in the brake lever, tighten the cable, tighten the bolt.

When loosening the bolt, hold the lever and cable so that the cable does not run away and you do not have to re-thread it into the seat.

    for fine tuning, we use the adjusting screw at the point where the shirt comes out with a cable from the brake lever.

To make the screw spin freely, loosen the lock nut by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Turning the screw clockwise, we loosen the cable tension (the pads move away from the rim), unscrewing it counterclockwise, we increase the tension (the pads are closer to the rim). When the pads are in the desired position, tighten the lock nut.

That’s all! Checking how everything works. If necessary, readjust the springs of the levers (item 3).

Setting up the brakes means paying attention to every detail, from the brake levers to the brake pads.

First step. Adjusting the brake levers

Brake levers should be located so that they can be reached quickly and comfortably. In order to adjust the position of the brake lever, loosen the fastening screw, place the handle as it is convenient for you and fix it. Usually there is a screw on the brake lever, with which you can adjust the distance of the brake lever to the grip. adjust the position of the lever with it.

Second step. Position of the brake pads

It is easier to adjust the position of the brake pads as follows: press one of the pads with your hands close to the rim, adjust its position. Make sure that the block is not too low (the edge of the block is below the rim), but also not too high. the block touches the tire.

I would like to draw special attention to the next moment, since there is little clear written about it. Until the nut of which the shoe is fixed is not tightened, the shoe has three degrees of freedom: the washers form something like a ball joint. (Pay attention to how many washers are there? That’s what they are for!). It is believed that the leading edge of the pads should touch the rim slightly earlier than the rear. Therefore, we do this: put a small gasket under the rear end (see fig).

This number of washers is needed to get something like a ball joint

Now you can tighten the nut that fixes the shoe.

Step three. Centering the positions of the levers

At this step, you need to fix the brake cable: so that the brake pads touch the rims at least a little if you press the brake lever. At the bottom of the levers there are special bolts that adjust the tension of the springs that press the pads against the rim.

We set it up as follows: press the brake and see which of the pads touches earlier. For the one that touched earlier, we increase the spring tension (or vice versa, weaken it on the other side). It is necessary to ensure that the pads touch the rim at the same time.

Fourth step. Adjusting the distance from the pads to the rim

I believe that this distance should be as small as possible. (1-2 mm. If the rim is even). But then the brakes will work very sharply. the slightest pressure leads to sharp braking. Therefore, the distance can be made a little more.

The distance is adjusted in two steps: first, due to the screw with which the cable is attached to the brakes. Then fine tuning on the brake lever.

The large washer acts as a lock: when it is tightened, the cable tension adjustment screw cannot be turned.

A modern road bike with 28 “wheels needs front caliper brakes with an 80 mm distance from the bracing centerline to the pads. Here are two proven caliper brakes with a distance of up to 90mm. Both brakes showed full suitability and good quality for me.

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Option 1. Caliper brake on one axle (like a Salute bike):

My weight is 85, from my cruising speed of 17 km / h with emergency braking with one front brake on horizontal asphalt it brakes quite effectively, braking distance of three meters to a full stop.

No special bends or pincers were noticed during braking (thick enough aluminum)

Out of the box, the pliers were not always retracted into the opposite position symmetrically, the right one sometimes remained touching the rim. I blew the hinge with aerosol graphite grease, squeezed it. Now it seems normal. I had to slightly lower the front wing (within the limits of the norm), the right tick touched the wing when I pressed the brake and wiggled it.

For a walker, it was a perfectly fit brake. The only drawback is that the pincer levers move slightly up and down in the wing area during operation, and the maximum wing raised interferes with the brake operation. Not a problem for standard tires, but when installing 28×2.00 tires it is better to raise the fender as high as possible.

Subsequently, I moved this brake with one axle to my daughter’s bike (wheels 16 ″), it was installed perfectly.

Option 2. Caliper brake on two axles (similar to the HVZ bike):

At the uniaxial brake, the pincers moved slightly down to the wing during operation, and the wing had to be lowered slightly. With biaxial pliers, all moving parts on the wing side move only to the sides, so the wing can be raised as much as possible. This is important for me, because I have 28×2.00 tires instead of stock 28×1.75. there is not enough space.

The new two-axle brakes have short pads, it seems that at minimum speeds they work harder than the previous uniaxial brakes, and, on the contrary, they brake less intensively at high speeds. But most likely the whole thing is in the pads, on the new ones they are not only shorter, but also slightly more plastic to the touch.

The biaxial ones have a simple clamp synchronization mechanism, which is good. The axis of attachment to the fork on biaxials is several mm longer, which is also good. In terms of quality, both the old single-axle and the new two-axle are comparable. service brakes, work normally even on small hills.

(in the photo, the pincers axles are smeared with graphite grease to protect against dust)

Installation and adjustment of the front brake; adjustment of both brakes

Now let’s start installing the front brake. Find a curved tube like this in the box. You need to thread the front brake cable into it so that the wide part is at the top, and the narrow tip at the bottom is closer to the brake levers (on the next photo).

We do it as in the photo. The elastic must be put on before you screw on the cable. An elastic band is needed to protect the cable from dirt.

Now we loosen the bolt and put the cable there.

We squeeze the levers so that 2-3 mm remain from the pads to the rim. and tighten the bolt (without fanaticism, otherwise the cable will start to push).

We leave a small part of the cable (5-7 cm.), Cut the rest with nippers (nippers are needed very good, otherwise the cable will fluff at the end). Next, put on the tip and clamp it with pliers. If you don’t have the right tools at hand, take this step later. But do not put it off for long. the cable may fluff up and you will have to change it.

Further, the cable can be wound by the lever so that it does not dangle.

Now you need to adjust the brakes. It would be good to devote a separate article to such a difficult question, but now I will try to briefly describe the adjustment process.

The precise work of the brakes consists of many nuances. First, spin the wheel (having previously inflated to the recommended pressure). is there an eight? If so, then it needs to be corrected. It is better for an experienced craftsman to do this or look for an article on eliminating eights on the Internet. If everything is in order, we will continue to work.

When assembled, the brake pads must be at equal distances from the rim. This is achieved by tensioning the cable. you can loosen the bolt with which you secured the cable and tighten it tighter. And then there is the lamb. it is right next to the brake lever. they can also tighten or loosen the cable. Never unscrew it all the way! The pads themselves must be parallel to the rim. Check if this is so. If not, you need to loosen the bolt that fixes them and adjust their position (see photo). You can, for example, hold down the brake (then the pads will press parallel to the rim) and immediately tighten the bolts.

Now we press the brake lever and see how the brake levers come together. And they must converge at the same time! Look at the video.

If, when you press the brake lever, one lever presses the shoe faster than the other, you need to make the adjustment with special screws (see photo). The adjustment is made as follows: choose the lever where the shoe is faster and stronger pressed against the rim and the screw on this side tighten clockwise by one or half a turn. Click and see if the situation changes. Usually, the pads begin to press against the rim at the same time after adjustment with one screw. If not, then turn the screw on the other lever (where the block is farther from the rim) turn counterclockwise by one. half a turn. Continue the described steps until you achieve the result, as in the video. The same procedure must be done with the rear brake.

We continue the cycle theme. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. As a test sample, the same Kama figs knows what year, which, of course, does not provide for fasteners on the fork.

The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!

1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.

This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not tell you about any plastic nonsense.

2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.

Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, an angle grinder is not required.

3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try on a fork and cut it off:

You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a screw with a turnkey head so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.

The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.

In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:

Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:

There is also such a moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.

4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:

I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.

5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:

You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.

We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):

We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:

That’s it. Next is a test drive. The attentive reader will ask how the v-brake behaves on a painted steel rim. Normal, no squeals. Normal brake pads need to be taken and not mess with noname rubber bands.

Adjusting the cable length

Before starting the adjustment, check the brake attachment. In case of slight unbalance, the cable can be adjusted on the handlebars of the bicycle. just tighten the mount on the brake lever with a shaped bolt.

  • Checking the positions of the regulators. they must be screwed in the required position.
  • In the area where the cable is attached to the brake lever, unscrew the fixing bolt with a hex wrench.
  • Unscrew the head screw on the brake lever.
  • Remove the cable from the shirt, check it for integrity, replace if necessary.
  • Thread the cable back into the sheath, check for freedom of movement.
  • Connect the end of the cable with a round attachment to the brake lever and screw the head screw.
  • Set the switch to operating mode.
  • Pull a rubber or aluminum boot on the other end of the cable so that the narrow part is directed towards the cable. Secure the cable with the fixing screw.
  • Tighten the adjusting bolts temporarily.
  • Using the pliers, set the optimal level of cable tension: the brake must immediately react to the pressure of the lever.
  • Hexagon adjusts the location of the brake pad relative to the disc or rim at a distance of up to 1 mm between them.
  • After that, the rotation of the drum and the reaction of the pads are checked, which should not touch the disc when the brake is released.
  • When the lever is pressed, the brake pads only touch the disc area.
  • After fixing the cable in the required position, tighten the adjusting screw.
  • Tighten the adjusters on the brake lever to finish.

After fixing the cable, a small piece of the cord remains, in order to prevent it from getting into the bicycle system, it must be wound or cut, leaving 8 cm in stock.

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Adjusting the position of the pads

Apply the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) against the stop (D). Loosen the block fixing bolt (K) with a hexagon. We press the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:

  • adhered to the rim with the entire surface
  • did not touch the tire
  • located parallel to the rim

In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. When tightening the bolt, the block may move and must be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.

If your brakes squeal, try the following.

Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim during braking (first at the front, then at the rear) and will not squeak.

We do similar operations with the second block.

Checking the condition of the brakes

First of all, unfasten the brake, as shown in the photo.

Check how the cable (G) moves in the shirt (A) by pressing and releasing the brake lever and pulling the cable back with your finger. the movement should be free, without delay. If the cable pulls hard, it may be damaged, the shirt or cable guide (C), or dirt has accumulated inside the jacket or cable guide. They must be removed and cleaned or replaced.

V-Brake Pad Replacement

Check the condition of the pads (J). Grooves for the drain of dirt should be visible on them (the block should not be smooth). Worn pads without grooves must be replaced. Check that the pads are complete with washers and that they are correctly installed.

Observe the order of the washers when installing new pads.

The brake levers (I) must swing freely in their seats and spring apart after being compressed. If the movement is difficult, the brake during operation may get stuck in the closed position and rub the pad on the rim. In this case, you can remove the levers from the seats, clean and lubricate the contact points and reinstall.

When installing, make sure that the protruding pin on the arm fits into the hole in the frame, and that the hole on the left and right arm is the same.

Setting up and replacing pads for V-Brake

Replacing the pads:

The tools we need are a 5 Allen key, a 3 Allen key, a Phillips screwdriver, and pliers. Open the brake by bringing the brake levers together with your hand and removing the metal arcuate end of the shirt from the groove, from which the cable comes out. If you are installing simple new pads, then the main thing is to put on in the desired sequence all the gaskets and washers that make up the pads fasteners. And it’s better if you write down or sketch the sequence in which you had them. Sometimes the pads are left and right. This is always indicated on the pads themselves.

Brake Caliper Mounting & Adjustment. Side Pull

The cartridge pads are even easier to change. They have a metal base and only the rubber pad changes. To do this, remove the locking cotter pin, which secures the pad in the shoe, and slide out the rubber pad. Insert new pads and secure with a cotter pin. Do not confuse left and right, otherwise you will not be able to secure them. After the new pads have been installed, they need to be adjusted.

Consider setting up and maintaining a rim brake.

We have already covered the design and variety of rim brakes on our blog. therefore, we will assume that you are already familiar with its construction. In many ways, you can change the force of your brakes by resetting the brake, or by tightening the adjusting bolt on the brake lever. Replacement of pads is performed when their surface is erased to the level of grooves for outflow of dirt (available on all v-brake pads). Those. the working surface becomes completely flat. over, if this happened, only from one edge of the pads, this indicates that they were incorrectly installed. And again they need to be replaced.

Adjusting the V-brake and replacing the pads

We will tell you how to change the pads and adjust the rim brakes, but if your bike has disc brakes, then this article will help you.

Brake setting:

The first thing to do is make sure the wheel is straight. The second thing to do is to tighten the adjusting bolt to the end on the handle itself and release the brake cable on the frame. After that, our frame with pads moves freely and you need to pay attention to the position of the pads, this is perhaps the main process, since it is the pads that contact the rim that make your bike slow down. The pads should be parallel to the rubber and never touch it. Please make sure that the pads on your bike are installed correctly according to the pictures below.

After the pads have been exposed, and the cable is fixed in the frame back. there should be a small gap of a couple of millimeters between the pads and the rim itself, and the wheel itself should move freely, the pads should not rub against the rim. Thus, we adjust the desired brake lever travel, it can be changed by releasing or vice versa, pulling the cable relative to the brake lever. Then we look at the position of the levers and the pressing of the pads when the brake lever is pressed, note that the pads must move synchronously with each other, if this does not happen and one side is pressed and the other is not, then the adjusting bolts on the springs, which are located at hinges securing the levers (legs). Adjustment takes place by releasing one side and proportionally twisting the other. After the frame is exposed and everything works in sync, the rim brake setting can be completed.

V-brake installation

Replacing brake pads on a bicycle is a simple process. For a V-brake, the procedure is as follows:

  • The handles must be installed on the steering wheel. To fix them, you should choose a convenient place.
  • Then you need to stretch the cables and insert the levers into the grooves.
  • Then you should press the levers against the brake system and fix. The distance from the pad to the rim should be 1-3 mm.
  • Next, the operation of the system is checked.
  • Before installing the levers, it is advisable to lubricate the grooves with oil. These parts must be at an equal distance from the rim for uniform wear.

Operating principle

Bicycle brake pads work according to the following principle:

  • After pressing the brake lever, a special mechanism is set in motion with a cable.
  • The mechanism is simple, with tension on the cable it will fit snugly against the braking surface of the rim (if V-brake) or the rotor (if disc brakes). Close-fitting surfaces are pads.
  • At the final stage, they adhere tightly to the surface, the rotation of the wheel slows down. The friction force depends on the pulling force of the cable, as well as the stop of the wheel.

Types of brakes

  • Drum.
  • V-brake.
  • Disk.

A vehicle with drum brakes is rare. They work differently from the rest of the species. This system has been known to many since childhood. It is considered expensive to repair, so it is rarely installed.

Squeaking brakes

Often on bicycles, the pads squeak strongly during braking. With strong gripping, along with the sound, the vibration of the braking surface and the rolling of the wheels forward. In the latter case, there is serious damage to the linings due to wear: the pressure elements rub over the rim, but they cannot clamp it, so the wheel slips. In case of harsh sounds, do not operate the system, you need to find out the cause of this phenomenon and eliminate it.

Unpleasant sounds appear on rim and disc braking systems. The reasons for this phenomenon are as follows:

  • Dirty disc or rim.
  • Oiling the pads.
  • Pads material stiffness.
  • Wear.
  • Inappropriate position relative to the rim.

When creaking, you need to pay attention to the surface: this phenomenon is observed due to the accumulation of dirt, grease and moisture. Cleaning is carried out with a solvent: white spirit or gasoline. Then the parts are wiped with a dry, clean material.

Do not discard linings when oil builds up on the brake surface. They are calcined until the spots burn out. This is done on a heated surface or above the burner. After the disappearance of traces, the pads are left in the open air. With this procedure, they will not serve for a long time, but high-quality options, for example, from Shimano, withstand heat and can be operated for a rather long period.


Bicycle disc brake pads are rare. The parts are expensive but durable and reliable. There are more of them. These items are considered difficult to install and configure. They are usually mounted on expensive models of vehicles, road and other sports bikes.

  • Handles and rope. They are the same as in the previous version.
  • Brake disc. Fastening to the hub with 6 bolts.
  • Adapter. Is a mechanism for securing the caliper to the frame.
  • Caliper. The block is operated with the part.
  • Block. They press the disc, and therefore braking is applied. In this system, they are round.

A working braking system on a bicycle is a guarantee of safety. But for a general understanding, you need to know how it is installed and works. Bicycle brake pads are considered an important part. They will be discussed in the article.


These brakes are considered the most popular as they are found on most bicycles. They are cheap and simple, but reliable. They are usually installed on urban, children’s, budgetary modes of transport. The speed is low on these bicycles, so hard braking is not necessary for them.

  • Brake lever. It is attached to the steering wheel and starts the entire system.
  • Cable. Thanks to him, the tension and reduction of the levers are transmitted.
  • Levers. Fits on the front fork and chain stays.
  • Brake pads. Fastening occurs on the levers, the parts are in contact with the braking surface.

General information

  • Transport type. For walking, children and amateur types, you should not choose expensive devices.
  • Brake system type. Depending on this, the pads may differ in shape and size.
  • Frequency of use. After all, it really matters how often transport is used. several times a year or regularly.