How to Assemble Bicycle Brakes

How to assemble a handbrake on a kid’s bike

Have you just received your long awaited bike from a shipping company? Now you have to assemble and configure it! Using the 2011 Giant Cypress city bike as an example, all the nuances of assembling a bicycle from scratch are considered. from unpacking to setting up the switches. If you have never assembled a bicycle before, I highly recommend taking it to the nearest bicycle workshop. you will save a lot of time and nerves. If you still want to do it yourself, this article is for you.

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Unpacking and installing the main elements of the bike. 2. Installation and adjustment of the front brake; adjustment of both brakes. 3. Adjustment of the rear and front derailleurs.

Unpacking and Installing Basic Bicycle Parts

This is what the bike box looks like when it comes from the factory. All bikes usually have a crankset, chain, rear and front derailleur, rear wheel, brakes and steering column already installed.

Separately packed steering wheel, seat, front wheel, pedals, reflectors and other small things.

A number of tools are required to assemble the setup:

  • hexagons (4, 5, 6 mm), or better a set,
  • wrench 15 (for tightening the pedals),
  • key for 10,
  • Phillips screwdriver,
  • pliers (for crimping the cable),
  • wire cutters (for cutting the cable).

We take the bike out of the box. With nippers or powerful scissors, we cut off all plastic clamps and remove the packaging. Be careful. it is easy to damage the paintwork of the frame at this stage.

The bike is ready for assembly.

First, attach the saddle to the seatpost. To do this, use a 6mm hexagon to unscrew the mount on the seatpost, install it in the grooves of the saddle frame, close it with a bracket on top and tighten it. This clever design also allows for back-and-forth movement and tilt adjustment. Now it is enough to just tighten the bolt, and it will be more convenient to make settings on the assembled bike.

We fix the reflector as close as possible to the saddle.

We lower the entire structure into the seat tube to the end and secure it with an eccentric clamp. If it closes too easily, then open it to the end, turn the tightening wheel and try to close it again. If it does not close, on the contrary, weaken.

Next, we are engaged in the removal of the steering wheel and the steering wheel. On different bicycles it is different: either the stem is already attached to the handlebars, or not. In any case, the stem is set first. When installing the stem and handlebars, pay attention to the derailleur and brake cables. they should not be tangled. Pay attention to the vertical marks on the stem. this is the maximum possible lift.

There is an important bolt hidden under this little plug! Using a 5 or 6 hexagon, the stem is fixed in the steering column, and the steering wheel is height adjustable.

Let’s take care of the front wheel. First you need to correctly install the eccentric (it is in a box with small things). The photo shows the correct position of all elements. Pay attention to the springs. they are located with a narrow part inward, i.e. to the wheel.

Remove the plug and spring from one side of the eccentric (from the one where there is no lever) and insert the axle into the front wheel hub. The question may arise, which side to insert it? Just look at which side it is mounted on the rear wheel (usually on the left) and follow the analogy.

Next, insert the wheel into the fork. It is necessary to “unfasten” the front brake of the bicycle in advance (in the case of rim brakes) or remove the rubber band from it (usually in the original packaging it is fixed with an elastic band or a tie).

The easiest way to tighten the eccentric is to approach the front of the bike. In this case, you can track whether the wheel is centered. Tightening is done as follows: turn the wheel clockwise to the left and try to close the lever. If it closes very easily, fold it back and turn the wheel again until the eccentric closes with force. You don’t need to overdo it, otherwise you can break the eccentric!

Now you can pump up the wheels. Recommended pressures are always printed on tires in psi and bar. Bar = atmosphere. Please note: the pressure in the bicycle wheels must be 3 atmospheres and higher. 3.5 is the best option. 2.2 like cars is no good. During operation, periodically check the pressure in the wheels. this is a guarantee of the absence of “eights”.

Install the pedals. The photo shows that each pedal is labeled as L or R. Sometimes stickers are also molded. L (Left). left, R (Right). right. Be careful: the pedals have different threads! Both pedals are twisted “in motion” of the bike, i.e. left to left (counterclockwise) and right to right (clockwise).

First, we twist them with our hands, and then we tighten them with a key by 15.

If the chain is not in place, it can easily be returned there. To do this, press on the rear derailleur foot and the chain looses. Now you can simply grab it with your hand and put it on one of the chainrings.

Installation and adjustment of the front brake; adjustment of both brakes

Now let’s start installing the front brake. Find a curved tube like this in the box. You need to thread the front brake cable into it so that the wide part is at the top, and the narrow tip at the bottom is closer to the brake levers (on the next photo).

We do it as in the photo. The elastic must be put on before you fasten the cable. An elastic band is needed to protect the cable from dirt.

Now we loosen the bolt and put the cable there.

We squeeze the levers so that 2-3 mm remain from the pads to the rim. and tighten the bolt (without fanaticism, otherwise the cable will start “pushing”).

We leave a small part of the cable (5-7 cm.), Cut the rest with nippers (nippers are needed very good, otherwise the cable will fluff at the end). Next, put on the tip and clamp it with pliers. If you don’t have the right tools at hand, take this step later. But do not postpone for long. the cable may “fluff” and you will have to change it.

Further, the cable can be wound by the lever so that it does not dangle.

Now you need to adjust the brakes. It would be good to devote a separate article to such a difficult question, but now I will try to briefly describe the adjustment process.

The precise operation of the brakes consists of many nuances. First, spin the wheel (having previously inflated to the recommended pressure). is there an eight? If so, then it needs to be fixed. It is better to do this for an experienced craftsman or look for an article on eliminating eights on the Internet. If everything is in order, we work further.

When assembled, the brake pads must be at equal distances from the rim. This is achieved by tensioning the cable. you can loosen the bolt with which you attached the cable and tighten it more. And then there is the “lamb”. it is right next to the brake lever. they can also tighten or loosen the cable. Never screw it out completely! The pads themselves must be parallel to the rim. Check if this is so. If not, you need to loosen the bolt that secures them and adjust their position (see photo). You can, for example, clamp the brake (then the pads will press parallel to the rim) and immediately tighten the bolts.

Now we press the brake lever and see how the brake levers come together. And they must converge at the same time! Look at the video.

If, when you press the brake lever, one lever presses the shoe faster than the other, you need to make the adjustment with special screws (see photo). The adjustment is made as follows: choose the lever where the shoe is faster and stronger pressed against the rim and the screw on this side tighten clockwise by one or half a turn. Click and see if the situation changes. Usually, the pads begin to press against the rim at the same time after adjustment with one screw. If not, then turn the screw on the other lever (where the block is farther from the rim) turn counterclockwise by one. half a turn. Continue the described steps until you achieve the result, as in the video. The same procedure must be done with the rear brake.

We continue the cycle theme. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. The same Kama “fig knows what year” acts as a test sample, on which, of course, fasteners on the fork are not provided.

The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!

1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.

This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not say about any plastic nonsense.

2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.

Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, a grinder is not required.

3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try on a fork and cut it off:

You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a screw with a turnkey head so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.

These are the bolts:

The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.

In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:

Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:

Another moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.

4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:

I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.

5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:

You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.

We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):

We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:

We spread the springs with clamps:

That’s it. Next is a test drive. The attentive reader will ask how v-brake behaves on a painted steel rim. Normal, no squeals. Normal brake pads need to be taken and not mess with noname rubber bands.

Braking system characteristics

The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:

  • impact force;
  • efficiency;
  • wear resistance;
  • modulation;
  • service requirements;
  • comparative features.

Force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is required only to stop completely and lock in place. On the road, the effort is not fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the handle is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.

An active cyclist uses his transport not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.

Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the prescriptions for using the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements describe how to properly install and adjust the mechanism, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.

Varieties of rim brakes

Rim brakes are divided into several types:

  • tick-borne;
  • cantilevers;
  • V-brake (vector mechanical);
  • hydraulically driven.

Caliper brakes. previously popular modifications, are now rare on the market. They are a classic model of rim brakes that are attached to the fork or stays of the bicycle frame. Design features and operating principle:

  • Consist of a handle, a drive cable, two movable bows and brake pads.
  • The handle is attached to the handlebars of the bicycle, a cable is pulled from it and fixed on the clamping side of the arches. The body itself is attached strictly above the wheel, pads are screwed to the lower arches.
  • Through the cable, the force is directly transmitted to the clamping part of the arcs, due to which they are compressed, and the pads are in contact with the rim.
  • Responsible for the release is an elastic metal insert or spring built between the levers.

The levers have a single axis of rotation and move towards each other like pliers pincers. Hence the name. tick-borne. Advantages. ease of installation, simple setup. Cons. weak braking force, low modulation, high abrasion of the pads, require frequent debugging. Fits on road racing bikes and optionally as a front rim brake on road models.

Cantilevers belong to the second type of disappearing brakes. The principle of their operation is to extend the levers under the action of a stretched leash. Cantilever brake working principle:

  • Through the main cable, the force is transmitted to the jumper.
  • The cable pulls the jumper up, the leash attached to it is pulled.
  • The leash connects both levers, which are rigidly attached to the frame.
  • Due to the convergence of the levers, the pads approach the rim.

The cantilevers are dirt resistant, will not bump the tire and are easy to install. Significant disadvantages include:

  • decrease in braking force as the leash is pulled;
  • you need to create a high effort to stop the bike completely;
  • difficulty of adjustment.
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To justify the latter, it is worth noting that the position of the pads can be adjusted within wide limits.

V-brake is a common type of rim brake on high-speed bicycles. Compared to cantilevers, it has a higher precision and longer shoe longevity. They are also easy to remove and repair yourself.

The vectors are partially similar in design to cantilevers: the front brake levers are bolted to the fork, the rear brake levers are attached to the upper stays. The legs are tied together with a pulling cable. The drive cable is brought to one side, but due to the straight form of the “tie” forces are equally transmitted to both levers.

Hydraulic bicycle rim brakes are a more advanced mechanical model. The drive system consists of a control cylinder, a hydraulic line and power cylinders. The forces from the handle are transmitted to the master cylinder, which, through the oil, acts on the power cylinders. Those, in turn, shift the pads towards each other.

Advantages. high compression force and efficiency, excellent modulation. Disadvantages. deterioration of performance when the hydraulic line is clogged, difficult repairs. Used a similar type of brakes for freeride and trial.

Rim-type brakes have low brake pad travel, which means they wear less during operation. A significant disadvantage of this approach is the inability to be used on wheels even with minor rim curvatures. Sensitive brakes will rub against the wheel on the fly, causing reduced speed and increased pad wear.

How to install and configure V-brake yourself

Installing the brake from scratch:

  • Attach the levers to the bike frame.
  • Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
  • Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
  • Connect the cable to the levers and put the spring.

After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

The accuracy of the mechanism largely depends on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to squeezing the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On a tight cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

  • Reset Springs.
  • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
  • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position the distance from the handle to the handlebars corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

If damage was noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of hard material are placed strictly parallel to the wheel rotation surface.

If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.

General cable characteristics

The brake cable for a bicycle is made of wear-resistant thin steel or Teflon threads, evenly woven and covered with a flexible polymer material. Teflon lubricants are used for protection.

The most reliable version of the brake cable is made of stainless steel. Constant use of the bike provokes contamination of the casing.

Over time, the strength of each core decreases: separate frayed areas are formed that are prone to tearing, delamination and bending.

The cable sheath (braid) is produced in several modifications:

Twisted braid. consists of several pairs of insulated conductors with the addition of metal, each of them is covered with protective plastic, the inner compartment is treated with a lubricant to reduce friction.

The price category of these braids is low, rarely goes on sale.

SIS braid. spiral braid, instead of thin metal threads, metal sheets are screwed into the spring, the inner surface is treated with Teflon grease.

This type of braid is the most common on the market today and is used on brake and speed cables.

SIS-SP. modernization of a modern rope, it is a parallel threads covered with polymer layers.

Unlike other types, they do not change the length of the wire, and balance the tension. The interior is lubricated with silicone fluid.

The braid is considered the most reliable, due to a number of factors the braking system works most accurately.

Main system functions

The main parameters responsible for the operation of the braking system are:

    Braking force. how much the brake grips the rim and the maximum amount of force required to stop or lock the bike.

The pressure ranges of the lever are called brake modulation.

Wear resistance is an indicator of the expected life of the system, taking into account the observance of operating rules.

Timely maintenance increases the service life of the braking system.

Checking the reaction of the pads

When the brake lever is released, the gap between the pads and the disc should not exceed 2 mm on both sides.

To check the need for adjustment, rotate the brake drum clockwise with the lever pressed and free.

Before replacing the brake cable on a bicycle, check the operation of the pads:

  • The pads are in close contact with the disc (rim). no adjustment required, the brake conductor is at normal tension.
  • The pads do not reach the disc. the length of the cable is shortened to the required level.

When pressing the lever, the pads should be in close contact with the disc or rim and stop rotation.

  • The brake cable must be adjusted so that when the lever is released, the wheel rotates freely and does not catch on the pads.
  • When the lever is pressed, the position of the brake pads should not exceed 2 mm, and the lever rests against the handlebar.
  • If the lever is unbalanced and rests against the handle, it is necessary to pull the cable.

    Adjusting the cable length

    Before starting the adjustment, check the brake attachment. In case of slight unbalance, the cable can be adjusted on the handlebars of the bike. just tighten the mount on the brake lever with a shaped bolt.

    • Checking the position of the regulators. they must be screwed in the required position.
    • In the area where the cable is attached to the brake lever, unscrew the fixing bolt with a hex wrench.
    • Unscrew the head screw on the brake lever.
    • Remove the cable from the shirt, check it for integrity, replace if necessary.
    • Thread the cable back into the sheath, check for freedom of movement.
    • Connect the end of the cable with the round attachment to the brake lever and screw the head screw.
    • Set the switch to operating mode.
    • Pull a rubber or aluminum boot on the other end of the cable so that the narrow part is directed towards the cable. Secure the cable with the fixing screw.
    • Tighten the adjustment screws temporarily.
    • Use the pliers to set the optimal level of cable tension: the brake must immediately react to the pressure of the lever.
    • Hexagon adjusts the location of the brake pad relative to the disc or rim at a distance of up to 1 mm between them.
    • After that, the rotation of the drum and the reaction of the pads are checked, which should not touch the disc when the brake is released.
    • When pressing the lever, the brake pads only touch the disc area.
    • Having fixed the cable in the required position, tighten the adjusting screw.
    • Tighten the adjusters on the brake lever to finish.

    After fixing the cable, a small piece of the cord remains, in order to prevent it from getting into the bicycle system, it must be wound or cut, leaving 8 cm in stock.

    Brake adjustment and tuning

    Adjusting the brakes involves more than one tensioned brake cable. An important part in setting up the brake system is replacing and adjusting the brake pads.

    Brake pads are replaced when the surface is erased. Disc brakes wear much slower system than rim brakes.

    For guaranteed reliability in braking, adjustment of mechanical disc brakes begins after tensioning the cable. When tensioning the cable, consider:

    • the distance from the brake pads to the disc is 0.2-0.4 mm;
    • pads are symmetrically located relative to the disc plane.

    To do this, after tensioning the cable, check the distance between the shoe and the disc.

    The pads are adjustable with bolts, to move them to the desired range, tighten and loosen the bolt.

    After checking, a gap is set between the pads and the disc so that they do not touch when the wheel rotates.

    And the most important thing is to make sure that the pads provide normal and timely braking of the bike.

    We also recommend watching a video on adjusting the brakes:

    Disc brake adjustment:

    Rim brake adjustment:

    Checking the condition of the brakes

    First of all, we “unfasten” the brake, as shown in the photo.

    Check how the cable (G) moves in the shirt (A) by pressing and releasing the brake lever and pulling the cable back with your finger. the movement should be free, without delay. If the cable pulls hard, it may be damaged, the shirt or cable guide (C), or dirt has accumulated inside the jacket or cable guide. They must be removed and cleaned or replaced.

    Check the condition of the pads (J). Grooves for the drain of dirt should be visible on them (the block should not be smooth). Worn pads without grooves must be replaced. Check that the pads are complete with washers and that they are correctly installed.

    Observe the order of washers when installing new pads.

    The brake levers (I) must rotate freely in their seats and spring apart after compression. If the movement is difficult, the brake during operation may get stuck in the closed position and rub the pad on the rim. In this case, you can remove the levers from the seats, clean and lubricate the contact points and reinstall.

    When installing, make sure that the protruding pin on the arm fits into the hole in the frame, and that the hole on the left and right arm is the same.

    Adjust the position of the pads

    “Fasten” the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) in the stop (D). Loosen the shoe fixing bolt (K) with a hexagon. We press the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:

    • adhered to the rim with the entire surface
    • did not touch the tire
    • parallel to the rim

    In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. When tightening the bolt, the shoe may move and must be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.

    If your brakes squeal, try the following.

    Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim during braking (first by the front, then by the rear) and will not “creak”.

    We do similar operations with the second block.

    We set the levers symmetrically

    For the left and right shoes to wear evenly, they must be at the same distance from the rim. Adjustable by spring tension on the brake levers. To equalize the force that returns the left and right brake levers to their original position, use the adjusting bolts located at the base of the levers.

    By twisting the bolt clockwise, we tighten the spring, unscrewing it. weaken it. By pressing and releasing the brake, we check the uniformity of the removal of the pads from the rim. Tighten the bolts on the left and right sides until the pads move the same distance when the brake lever is released.

    Adjusting the position of the brake lever and the tension of the cable

    To bring the brake lever closer to the steering wheel (for example, so that you don’t have to stretch your fingers too much), tighten the bolt on the brake lever.

    In this case, keep in mind that you should not bring the handle too close to the steering wheel. It should not touch the grip when fully clamped.

    When the position of the brake lever is set, it remains to adjust the cable tension. The task is to bring the pads as close to the rim as possible, leaving a distance of 2-3 millimeters between the pad and the rim.

    To do this, you can tighten the cable in two ways:

      For a rough adjustment, if the cable is very weakly tensioned, and the pads are far from the rim: loosen the bolt fixing the cable in the brake lever, tighten the cable, tighten the bolt.

    While loosening the bolt, hold the lever and cable so that the cable does not “run away” and do not have to re-thread it into the seat.
    for fine tuning, we use the adjusting screw at the point where the shirt comes out with a cable from the brake lever.

    To make the screw spin freely, loosen the lock nut by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Turning the screw clockwise, we release the cable tension (the pads move away from the rim), unscrewing it counterclockwise, we increase the tension (the pads are closer to the rim). When the pads are in the desired position, tighten the lock nut.

    That’s all! Checking how everything works. If necessary, re-adjust the springs of the levers (item 3).

    Braking tuning requires attention to every detail, from the brake levers to the brake pads.

    First step. Adjusting the brake levers

    Brake levers should be located so that they can be reached quickly and comfortably. In order to adjust the position of the brake lever, loosen the fastening screw, place the handle as it is convenient for you and fix it. Usually there is a screw on the brake lever, with which you can adjust the distance of the brake lever to the grip. adjust the position of the lever with it.

    Step two. Position of the brake pads

    It is easier to adjust the position of the brake pads as follows: press one of the pads with your hands close to the rim, adjust its position. Make sure that the block is not too low (the edge of the block is below the rim), but not too high. the block touches the tire.

    I would like to draw special attention to the next moment, since there is little clear written about it. Until the nut of which the shoe is fixed is not tightened, the shoe has three degrees of freedom: the washers form something like a ball joint. (Pay attention to how many washers are there? That’s what they are for!). It is believed that the leading edge of the pads should touch the rim slightly earlier than the rear. Therefore, we do this: we put a small gasket under the rear end (see fig.).

    This number of washers is needed to get something like a ball joint

    Now you can tighten the nut that fixes the shoe.

    Step three. Centering the positions of the levers

    At this step, you need to fix the brake cable: so that the brake pads touch the rims at least a little if you press the brake lever. At the bottom of the levers there are special bolts that adjust the tension of the springs that press the pads against the rim.

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    We set it up as follows: press the brake and see which of the pads touches earlier. For the one that touched earlier, we increase the spring tension (or vice versa, weaken it on the other side). It is necessary to ensure that the pads touch the rim at the same time.

    Fourth step. Adjusting the distance from the pads to the rim

    I believe that this distance should be as small as possible. (1-2 mm. If the rim is even). But then the brakes will work very sharply. the slightest pressure leads to sharp braking. Therefore, the distance can be made a little more.

    The distance is adjusted in two steps: first, due to the screw with which the cable is attached to the brakes. Then fine tuning on the brake lever.

    The large washer acts as a lock: when it is tightened, the cable tension adjustment screw cannot be turned.

    A modern road bike with 28 “wheels requires front caliper brakes with an 80 mm distance from the bore to the pads. Here are two proven caliper brakes with a distance of up to 90mm. Both brakes showed full suitability and good quality for me.

    Option 1. Caliper brake on one axle (like the Salyut bike):

    My weight is 85, from my cruising speed of 17 km / h with emergency braking with one front brake on horizontal asphalt it brakes quite effectively, braking distance of three meters to a full stop.

    No special bends or pincers were noticed during braking (thick enough aluminum)

    Out of the box, the pliers were not always retracted into the opposite position symmetrically, the right one sometimes remained with the rim touching. I blew the hinge with aerosol graphite grease, squeezed it. Now it seems normal. I had to slightly lower the front wing (within the limits of the norm), the right “tick” touched the wing when I pressed the brake and moved it.

    For a walker, it was a perfectly fit brake. The only drawback is that the “tick” levers move slightly up and down in the wing area during operation and the maximum wing raised interferes with the brake operation. Not a problem for standard tires, but when installing 28×2.00 tires it is better to raise the fender as high as possible.

    Subsequently, I rearranged this brake with one axle on my daughter’s bike (wheels 16 ″), it was installed perfectly.

    Option 2. Caliper brake on two axles (similar to the HVZ bike):

    http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-LARGE-.4.14010208.99999999.390.MRGtU8

    With a uniaxial brake, the pincers moved slightly down to the wing during operation, and the wing had to be lowered slightly. With biaxial pliers, all moving parts on the wing side move only to the sides, so the wing can be raised as much as possible. This is important for me, because I have 28×2.00 tires instead of stock 28×1.75. there is not enough space.

    The new two-axle brakes have short pads, it seems that at minimum speeds they work harder than the previous single-axle brakes, and, on the contrary, they brake less intensively at high speeds. But most likely the whole thing is in the pads, on the new ones they are not only shorter, but also to the touch a little more “plastic”.

    The biaxial ones have a simple clamp synchronization mechanism, which is good. The axle of attachment to the fork on biaxials is several mm longer, this is also good. In terms of quality, both the old single-axle and the new two-axle are comparable. service brakes, work normally even on small hills.

    (in the photo, the pincers axles are smeared with graphite grease to protect against dust)

    Adjusting rim brakes using the example of V-brake

    When set up correctly, v-brakes will perform just as well, and some models even better than disc brakes! The design features of the v-brakes allow adjusting the pads in almost any plane, but this is not possible with caliper rim brakes. The price of rim brakes is much less than that of disc brakes, they weigh less and are easier to adjust than disc brakes.

    Installing v-brakes

    Change the pads to new ones when their braking surface is erased to the level of the grooves for the drain of dirt, that is, when the working surface becomes absolutely flat. And if the pads are worn off only on one side, this means that they were installed incorrectly, and they will also need to be replaced.

    First, loosen the screw holding the cable.

    The main thing when installing a conventional brake shoe is to put on in the correct sequence all the washers and gaskets that make up their fasteners. Also note that some models of pads can be divided into left and right, this is indicated on the pads themselves, take this into account when installing.

    Replacing cartridge pads is even easier. They have a metal base and only the rubber pad needs to be replaced. There is a locking cotter pin on such pads (do not lose it), you need to pull it out and slide out the rubber pad. Then insert new pads and secure with a cotter pin. When installing the trims, pay attention to the indicators for the right and left side.

    After replacing the pads, screw the adjusting drum on the brake lever fully and unscrew it one turn. Squeeze the brake levers with your fingers, reinstall the cable and secure with the screw. The distance from the wheel rim to the shoes should be 2 mm.

    How to assemble a hand brake on a child’s bike. How to set up rim brakes

    Vibrators do not lose popularity. Ease of maintenance, cheap consumables and unpretentious operation. an excellent option for those who use the bike primarily for moving, without extreme and overloading.

    The principle of operation is simple. when pressed, the brake lever pulls the cable (G), which moves the brake levers (I), pressing the pads (J) attached to them against the wheel rim. When the handle is released, the levers return to their original position, installed on them by springs. In this article we will analyze how to set up and adjust rim brakes:

    Checking the condition of the brakes

    First of all, we “unfasten” the brake, as shown in the photo.

    Check how the cable (G) moves in the shirt (A) by pressing and releasing the brake lever and pulling the cable back with your finger. the movement should be free, without delay. If the cable pulls hard, it may be damaged, the shirt or cable guide (C), or dirt has accumulated inside the jacket or cable guide. They must be removed and cleaned or replaced.

    Check the condition of the pads (J). Grooves for the drain of dirt should be visible on them (the block should not be smooth). Worn pads without grooves must be replaced. Check that the pads are complete with washers and that they are correctly installed.

    Observe the order of washers when installing new pads.

    The brake levers (I) must rotate freely in their seats and spring apart after compression. If the movement is difficult, the brake during operation may get stuck in the closed position and rub the pad on the rim. In this case, you can remove the levers from the seats, clean and lubricate the contact points and reinstall.

    When installing, make sure that the protruding pin on the arm fits into the hole in the frame, and that the hole on the left and right arm is the same.

    Adjust the position of the pads

    “Fasten” the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) in the stop (D). Loosen the shoe fixing bolt (K) with a hexagon. We press the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:

    • adhered to the rim with the entire surface
    • did not touch the tire
    • parallel to the rim

    In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. When tightening the bolt, the shoe may move and must be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.

    If your brakes squeal, try the following.

    Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim during braking (first by the front, then by the rear) and will not “creak”.

    We do similar operations with the second block.

    We set the levers symmetrically

    For the left and right shoes to wear evenly, they must be at the same distance from the rim. Adjustable by spring tension on the brake levers. To equalize the force that returns the left and right brake levers to their original position, use the adjusting bolts located at the base of the levers.

    By twisting the bolt clockwise, we tighten the spring, unscrewing it. weaken it. By pressing and releasing the brake, we check the uniformity of the removal of the pads from the rim. Tighten the bolts on the left and right sides until the pads move the same distance when the brake lever is released.

    Adjusting the position of the brake lever and the tension of the cable

    To bring the brake lever closer to the steering wheel (for example, so that you don’t have to stretch your fingers too much), tighten the bolt on the brake lever.

    In this case, keep in mind that you should not bring the handle too close to the steering wheel. It should not touch the grip when fully clamped.

    When the position of the brake lever is set, it remains to adjust the cable tension. The task is to bring the pads as close to the rim as possible, leaving a distance of 2-3 millimeters between the pad and the rim.

    To do this, you can tighten the cable in two ways:

      For a rough adjustment, if the cable is very weakly tensioned, and the pads are far from the rim: loosen the bolt fixing the cable in the brake lever, tighten the cable, tighten the bolt.

    While loosening the bolt, hold the lever and cable so that the cable does not “run away” and do not have to re-thread it into the seat.
    for fine tuning, we use the adjusting screw at the point where the shirt comes out with a cable from the brake lever.

    To make the screw spin freely, loosen the lock nut by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Turning the screw clockwise, we release the cable tension (the pads move away from the rim), unscrewing it counterclockwise, we increase the tension (the pads are closer to the rim). When the pads are in the desired position, tighten the lock nut.

    That’s all! Checking how everything works. If necessary, re-adjust the springs of the levers (item 3).

    How to adjust the brakes on your bike yourself?

    The question of how to adjust the brakes on a bicycle is very rarely posed to the owners of modern bicycle bikes, since the quality of modern braking systems is so high that the settings installed at the factory during the production process do not go astray for years. However, in any case, the cyclist needs to know the intricacies of their settings and carry out preventive maintenance at least once a season. This will allow you to extend the life of your bike and protect you from possible accidents that may happen to you on the road.

    Types of bicycle brakes

    In order to know how to properly adjust the brakes on a bicycle, you need to be able to understand their design. Today, modern bicycles are equipped with the following types of brakes: rim, drum and disc brakes. over, each type of brake systems is subdivided into subspecies.

    Types of bicycle brakes

    Rim systems are:

    • tick-borne;
    • cantilever;
    • hydraulic;
    • V-brake type.

    Drum-type brakes do not have subspecies, but disc brakes have the following varieties:

    Rim brakes are those braking systems in which the wheels of the bicycle are braked by clamping the wheel rim. As a result, the rotation speed is reduced until the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Rim braking systems are among the most common due to their simplicity and low cost. They are used on almost all types of bike.

    Bicycle Hydraulic Brake Device

    Drum brakes, or roller brakes, are very similar in principle to those used on cars. Here, the braking elements of the structure are placed inside the wheels, and they stop their movement by pressing against the rotating part of the wheel. Since brakes of this type have a large mass and are rarely repairable in field conditions, they do not have sufficient strength, they are usually used on recreational cycle bikes.

    As for the disc brakes, they are the most common today and they are installed both on cars for beginners and on professional bikes. Their device consists of a disc securely attached to the hub of the wheel, as well as to the frame or caliper fork, hydraulic tube or cable. The task of the latter is to transfer the force created by the cyclist’s brush when braking to the caliper. This braking system does not need constant tuning, is not afraid of precipitation and cold weather, has a long period of operation.

    Bicycle disc brake device

    To know how to set the brakes on a bicycle correctly, you will need to carefully study the design of all types of braking systems. At the same time, some types of bicycles are equipped with rather complex braking systems, and therefore the bicycle owner, in order to have an idea, for example, how to adjust the hydraulic brakes on a bicycle, will need to carefully study the instructions for it. It is worth reading the materials on this topic located on specialized sites dedicated to cycling.

    The main symptoms of bicycle brake malfunctions

    If you have studied the information on how to adjust the brakes on a bicycle, you should also additionally understand the signs indicating a breakdown of its brake system.

    Adjustment of the brake systems of bicycles is carried out when you have purchased a new bike, as well as after the expiration of its running-in period

    These include:

    • The appearance of unusual sounds during movement, namely knocks, whistles, creaks. This indicates that the car has problems with the pads or with the brake itself.
    • Poor response of bicycle brakes to the force applied by the cyclist to the brake lever. In this case, you can diagnose a malfunction of the hydraulic system or the bicycle brake cable.
    • The presence of visually detectable mechanical damage, namely impact marks after a fall. In this case, the brakes will work, but they will have to be additionally adjusted.

    Attention! Adjustment of the brake systems of bicycles is carried out when you have purchased a new bike, as well as after the expiration of its running-in period.

    This procedure will need to be carried out even when you have not used the car for more than a month, especially in the cold season.

    During brake adjustment, preventive maintenance of other systems and mechanisms of the bike is carried out

    In order to understand how to adjust the brakes on a bicycle, you need to know the basic operations that are performed while doing this. Usually, all types of brake adjustments require the following operations:

    • Selecting the best way to position the pads in relation to the wheel rim, or adjusting the disc or drum in the same way.
    • Debugging their work planes.
    • Selection of the optimal force on the working bodies located on the steering wheel. Usually this is a brake handle, with the help of which force is transmitted to the working elements of the brake system. This force to the rear brake can be transmitted through the bicycle pedals.

    When adjusting the brakes, preventive maintenance of other systems and mechanisms of the bike is carried out, for example, it will be imperative to check the correct geometry of the wheel rim. If you identify the presence of an eight on it, it will need to be corrected so that the last does not erase the rim.

    When setting up your brakes, always remember that knowing how to adjust the rear brakes on a bicycle is far from the same as knowing how to adjust the front brakes on a bicycle. Usually, the braking systems located in front and behind the bike are quite different from each other, so you need to have a different approach to them.

    Adjusting rim brakes

    You can learn how to set up rim brakes on a bicycle by carefully studying the instructions for their design. In addition, information on this topic can be found in abundance on cycling websites. Usually, the process of adjusting the rim brakes does not cause absolutely any problems, even for a novice bike rider. The fact is that the main operation for servicing the brakes of such a system is to replace the brake pads, so all the subtleties here will consist in the correct operation of the mechanisms holding them.

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    Setting up the rim brakes on your bike

    It should be noted that in general most modern bicycles use a type of brake pad mount such as the V-Brake. It is characterized by the presence of separate levers in their design, made in the form of the letter V. They are connected by a cable held by a jacket. It is about the maintenance of this type of brake system that we will tell.

    In order to carry out maintenance of the rim brake, you must:

    • Open the brake, and using force remove the cable jacket from the mount.
    • Unscrew the screw securing it to the frame.
    • Remove the brake mechanism.
    • To work with pads, unscrew the pads fixing screw.

    When doing this, be careful not to forget the correct sequence for installing the washers. The fact is that they are mounted in pairs. concave and convex. The correct adjustment of the entire brake system depends on how correctly they are installed.

    Finished brake cartridges must match the brakes of the bike exactly

    Since the most common operation is brake pad replacement, let’s take a look at it. To do this, you will need to perform all the operations listed above and pry on the old block to remove it. A new one is installed in the vacant place. When performing this work, you must be careful, since you will have to adjust the brake shoe in place.

    Attention! In the event that you will install ready-made brake cartridges, you will have to carefully ensure that such cartridges exactly fit exactly these brakes.

    In addition to replacing the brake pads, they are adjusted on the spot, and the level of the cable tension is also controlled. For this, the screw located on the brake lever is tightened to the desired state. As a result of this clockwise rotation, the brake pads move away from each other.

    In addition, the tilt of the brake shoe is also adjusted by loosening the fixing screw. If you recently purchased a bike and it is difficult for you to follow the procedures described on your own, then in order to learn how to adjust the brakes on a bike, you should watch a video on this topic.

    If new pads are installed on the bike, then the main thing is to put on spacers and washers in the correct sequence

    Disc brake adjustment

    Since disc brakes are rarely used on modern bicycles, you will only need to adjust them when you need to learn how to adjust the brakes on a mountain bike, that is, when you start cycling at least semi-professionally. At the same time, there are many types of brake disc systems, but we will consider maintenance work with rotary brakes.

    Before proceeding directly to the process of adjusting the brake system of a bicycle, you will need, if you do not have experience with such work, study the materials on how to adjust disc brakes on a bicycle, and watch about this video. In addition, before adjusting disc brakes, you must:

    • Check the position of the brake lever.
    • Inspect the disc or rotor for mechanical damage. If it has chips and dents, it will need to be replaced.
    • Check the condition of the brake cable and the pads located in the brake shoe.

    Adjusting bicycle disc brakes

    Attention! Since the quality of the brake system directly depends on the correct setting of the angle of pressing the pads, it is necessary in the process of adjusting it to correctly set the angle of its pressing.

    To do this, it will have to be installed strictly parallel to the disc or rotor. If you install a block crookedly, this will greatly shorten its service life.

    The disc brakes themselves are adjusted directly on the caliper according to the following scheme:

    • We fix the wheel exactly in the position in which it will be while driving. This is very important for determining the location of the rotor and hub.
    • We slightly loosen the fastening of the caliper so that it does not fall, but at the same time it can move.
    • Clamp the brake lever to install the caliper in place.
    • Moving the brake machine or tightening the bolts.
    • Working with the bolts one by one, we finally put the car in place.

    Adjusting the brake levers

    In addition to performing the adjustment procedure, disc brakes require periodic rotor dressing. A simple adjustable wrench is usually used to repair minor damage to this assembly. In the event that it is badly damaged, it makes sense to replace it.

    When adjusting disc brakes, try not to touch them with your hands, as they are very bad for getting fat into the system, even from your hands. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to carry out the procedure for degreasing them with gasoline.

    assemble, bicycle, brakes

    After learning the process of how to set up disc brakes on a bicycle, you can then make repairs in any conditions, for example, when you are on a hike or on a country road.

    How to install v-brakes on an old bike

    We continue the cycle theme. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. The same Kama “fig knows what year” acts as a test sample, on which, of course, fasteners on the fork are not provided.

    The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!

    1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.

    This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not say about any plastic nonsense.

    2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.

    Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, a grinder is not required.

    3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try on a fork and cut it off:

    You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a screw with a turnkey head so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.

    These are the bolts:

    The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.

    In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:

    Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:

    Another moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.

    4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:

    I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.

    5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:

    You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.

    We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):

    We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:

    How to set up rim brakes on a bicycle

    The braking system is one of the most important technical components of a bicycle. The safety of both the cyclist and other road users directly depends on its condition. Good brakes are essential in any situation, from riding in parks to strong cycling.

    In the modern classical sense, a bicycle brake is a pressure mechanism that acts on the wheel rim. There are actually several types of brakes, however v-brake (rim) is the most common option on bicycles of various classes.

    Braking system characteristics

    The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:

    • impact force;
    • efficiency;
    • wear resistance;
    • modulation;
    • service requirements;
    • comparative features.

    Force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is required only to stop completely and lock in place. On the road, the effort is not fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the handle is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.

    An active cyclist uses his transport not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.

    Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the prescriptions for using the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements describe how to properly install and adjust the mechanism, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.

    Varieties of rim brakes

    Rim brakes are divided into several types:

    • tick-borne;
    • cantilevers;
    • V-brake (vector mechanical);
    • hydraulically driven.

    Caliper brakes. previously popular modifications, are now rare on the market. They are a classic model of rim brakes that are attached to the fork or stays of the bicycle frame. Design features and operating principle:

    • Consist of a handle, a drive cable, two movable bows and brake pads.
    • The handle is attached to the handlebars of the bicycle, a cable is pulled from it and fixed on the clamping side of the arches. The body itself is attached strictly above the wheel, pads are screwed to the lower arches.
    • Through the cable, the force is directly transmitted to the clamping part of the arcs, due to which they are compressed, and the pads are in contact with the rim.
    • Responsible for the release is an elastic metal insert or spring built between the levers.

    The levers have a single axis of rotation and move towards each other like pliers pincers. Hence the name. tick-borne. Advantages. ease of installation, simple setup. Cons. weak braking force, low modulation, high abrasion of the pads, require frequent debugging. Fits on road racing bikes and optionally as a front rim brake on road models.

    Cantilevers belong to the second type of disappearing brakes. The principle of their operation is to extend the levers under the action of a stretched leash. Cantilever brake working principle:

    • Through the main cable, the force is transmitted to the jumper.
    • The cable pulls the jumper up, the leash attached to it is pulled.
    • The leash connects both levers, which are rigidly attached to the frame.
    • Due to the convergence of the levers, the pads approach the rim.

    The cantilevers are dirt resistant, will not bump the tire and are easy to install. Significant disadvantages include:

    • decrease in braking force as the leash is pulled;
    • you need to create a high effort to stop the bike completely;
    • difficulty of adjustment.

    To justify the latter, it is worth noting that the position of the pads can be adjusted within wide limits.

    V-brake is a common type of rim brake on high-speed bicycles. Compared to cantilevers, it has a higher precision and longer shoe longevity. They are also easy to remove and repair yourself.

    The vectors are partially similar in design to cantilevers: the front brake levers are bolted to the fork, the rear brake levers are attached to the upper stays. The legs are tied together with a pulling cable. The drive cable is brought to one side, but due to the straight form of the “tie” forces are equally transmitted to both levers.

    Hydraulic bicycle rim brakes are a more advanced mechanical model. The drive system consists of a control cylinder, a hydraulic line and power cylinders. The forces from the handle are transmitted to the master cylinder, which, through the oil, acts on the power cylinders. Those, in turn, shift the pads towards each other.

    Advantages. high compression force and efficiency, excellent modulation. Disadvantages. deterioration of performance when the hydraulic line is clogged, difficult repairs. Used a similar type of brakes for freeride and trial.

    Rim-type brakes have low brake pad travel, which means they wear less during operation. A significant disadvantage of this approach is the inability to be used on wheels even with minor rim curvatures. Sensitive brakes will rub against the wheel on the fly, causing reduced speed and increased pad wear.

    How to install and configure V-brake yourself

    Installing the brake from scratch:

    • Attach the levers to the bike frame.
    • Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
    • Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
    • Connect the cable to the levers and put the spring.

    After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

    The accuracy of the mechanism largely depends on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

    Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to squeezing the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On a tight cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

    The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

    • Reset Springs.
    • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
    • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position the distance from the handle to the handlebars corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

    If damage was noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

    Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

    How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of hard material are placed strictly parallel to the wheel rotation surface.

    If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

    Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

    The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.