How to assemble a rear brake on a bike

Cantilever brakes

Their mechanism consists of two levers with brake pads attached to the pivots on the fork. With the help of a pair of rods, the cable moves the levers, after which braking occurs. This mechanism is simple and reliable, but it is less and less common. It is superseded by other other types of brakes with more effective stopping power.

Adjusting the rim brakes

Adjustment of rim brakes (almost all modern ones are of the V-Brake type) is very simple and does not require any special conditions. over, due to the “openness” of the mechanism, maintenance usually consists not in working with the structure, but in replacing the pads.

Before adjusting, the first step is to make sure that the rim brakes are indeed V-brakes. Actually, there are three types of rim mounts:

  • V-Brake. separate V-shaped levers connected by a cable that is held in place by a leash (jacket);
  • cantilever. with an additional central mount, from which the cable goes separately to each side. In fact, these are the predecessors of the V-Brake, featuring a more complex mechanism, but a large clearance, which is beneficial for “dirty” riding;
  • caliper brakes. U-shaped mount in which two levers are connected and “bite” the rim. These models are the hardest to weaken.

V-brake brakes

V-brakes are applied in the same way as cantilever brakes. The brake cable is routed from the side to the top of the brake arm. The brake lever compresses both parts of the brake with cartridge brake pads. This system of parallel pressing of the pads allows for efficient braking.

In addition, the cartridge brake pads can be easily changed using a conventional hex wrench. At the moment, this type of brake is the most common. Since V-brakes are the most common type of rim brakes, it is worth considering their advantages and disadvantages separately.

  • Simple and efficient design with good braking power.
  • Lightweight compared to disc or drum brakes.
  • Low price.
  • Reduced braking performance if moisture or dirt gets on the rims and brake pads.
  • Acceleration of the wear of the rim and brake pads due to increased friction when dirt, sand gets in.
  • Wide tires cannot be used with V-brakes.

Bicycle rear brake

Brakes for a bicycle, like for any other vehicle, are an indispensable element necessary to control the bicycle and ensure safety. The following types are distinguished:

  • Drum brakes.
  • Rim brakes.
  • Disc brakes.

Which type of brakes should you choose? To answer this question, it is worth understanding the features of each type of brakes.

Drum brakes

The drum brake (otherwise called “foot brake”) is located in the rear hub of the bicycle and has brake pads inside. The braking process is initiated when the carriage rotates against the movement.

As a result, the brake pads are pulled apart and pressed against the drum. Friction arises between the pads and the drum, due to which braking occurs. Drum brakes are commonly found on children’s bikes (e.g. Forward Meteor 12, Forward Timba girl) and inexpensive city bikes for adults.

  • Durability. due to the closed mechanism, dirt, dust and moisture almost do not get into it.
  • Drum brake does not cause wheel rim wear.
  • Easy to maintain. no need for regular inspection and adjustment.
  • Efficiency. works even when the wheel rim is bent.
  • Are heavy.
  • force is required to brake than with other types of brakes.
  • Cannot be used on multi-speed bikes.
  • The presence of a “dead zone”. when it is impossible to brake with the vertical position of the connecting rods.
  • There is a risk. if the chain falls off the sprocket and the front brake is not installed on the bike, the bike cannot be stopped.
  • It takes time for the transition from moving forward to the beginning of braking, which in some cases can be critical.

Mechanical disc brakes

Mechanical disc brakes, as a rule, are installed on mountain bikes (Forward Next 2.0 disc, Forward Agris Lady 27.5 2.0 disc, etc.) and touring bikes (Forward Yukon 2.0 disc), less often on city bikes (to For example, Forward Tracer 2.0 disc).

  • Difficult to repair in the field without special tools.
  • Unlike V-brakes, the various models and modifications of disc brakes make it very difficult to find spare parts for them.
  • Danger of twisting the rotor on the removed wheel when transporting the bike.
  • Potential difficulty attaching a standard bike rack.
  • Heavy weight relative to rim brakes.
  • High price relative to rim brakes.
  • It is necessary to keep the shirts and cables clean and lubricate them regularly, while the lubricant should have an optimal density, should not leak out of the shirts.

Now that you know the features of different types of brakes, their pros and cons, it will be easier for you to choose a bike with the most suitable brakes and how to maintain them further, for example, adjust the brakes.

Brakes, especially disc brakes, need to be adjusted very rarely. For rim types, this is once a season, for other options up to once every few years. Nevertheless, after a long downtime or repair, as well as when symptoms of incorrect operation of the brake system appear, adjustment is simply necessary.

We set the levers symmetrically

In order for the left and right pads to wear evenly, they must be at the same distance from the rim. Adjustable by spring tension on the brake levers. To equalize the force that returns the left and right brake levers to their original position, use the adjusting bolts located at the base of the levers.

By twisting the bolt clockwise, we tighten the spring, unscrewing it. weaken it. By pressing and releasing the brake, we check the uniformity of the removal of the pads from the rim. Tighten the bolts on the left and right sides until the pads move the same distance when the brake lever is released.

Checking the condition of the brakes

First of all, “unfasten” the brake, as shown in the photo.

Check how the cable (G) moves in the shirt (A) by pressing and releasing the brake lever and pulling the cable back with your finger. the movement should be free, without delay. If the cable pulls hard, it may be damaged, the shirt or cable guide (C), or dirt has accumulated inside the jacket or cable guide. They must be removed and cleaned or replaced.

Check the condition of the pads (J). They should show dirt drainage grooves (the block should not be smooth). Worn pads without grooves must be replaced. Check that the pads are complete with washers and that they are correctly installed.

Observe the order of the washers when installing new pads.

The brake levers (I) must rotate freely in their seats and spring apart after being compressed. If the movement is difficult, the brake during operation may get stuck in the closed position and rub the pad on the rim. In this case, you can remove the levers from the seats, clean and lubricate the contact points and reinstall.

When installing, make sure that the protruding pin on the arm fits into the hole in the frame, and that the hole on the left and right arm is the same.

Unpacking and Installing Basic Bicycle Parts

This is what the bike box looks like when it comes from the factory. All bikes usually have a crankset, chain, rear and front derailleurs, rear wheel, brakes and steering column already installed.

Separately packed steering wheel, seat, front wheel, pedals, reflectors and other small things.

A number of tools are required to assemble the setup:

  • hexagons (4, 5, 6 mm), or better a set,
  • wrench 15 (for tightening the pedals),
  • key for 10,
  • Phillips screwdriver,
  • pliers (for crimping the cable),
  • wire cutters (for cutting the cable).

We take the bike out of the box. Cut off all plastic clamps with nippers or powerful scissors and remove the packaging. Be careful. it is easy to damage the paintwork of the frame at this stage.

First, attach the saddle to the seatpost. To do this, use a 6mm hexagon to unscrew the mount on the seatpost, install it in the grooves of the saddle frame, close it with a bracket on top and tighten it. This clever design also allows for back and forth movement and tilt adjustment. Now it is enough to just tighten the bolt, and it will be more convenient to make the settings on the assembled bike.

We fix the reflector as close as possible to the saddle.

We lower the entire structure into the seat tube to the end and secure it with an eccentric clamp. If it closes too easily, then open it to the end, turn the tightening wheel and try to close it again. If it does not close, on the contrary, weaken.

Next, we are engaged in the removal of the steering wheel and the steering wheel. On different bicycles it happens differently: either the stem is already attached to the handlebars, or not. In any case, the stem is set first. When installing the stem and handlebars, pay attention to the derailleur and brake cables. they should not be tangled. Pay attention to the vertical marks on the stem. this is the maximum possible lift.

There is an important bolt underneath this little plug! Using a 5 or 6 hexagon, the stem is fixed in the steering column, and the steering wheel is height adjustable.

Let’s take care of the front wheel. First you need to correctly install the eccentric (it is in a box with small things). The photo shows the correct position of all elements. Pay attention to the springs. they are located with a narrow part inward, i.e. to the wheel.

Remove the plug and spring from one side of the eccentric (from the one where there is no lever) and insert the axle into the front wheel hub. The question may arise, which side to insert it? Just look at which side it is mounted on the rear wheel (usually on the left) and follow the analogy.

Next, insert the wheel into the fork. It is necessary to “unfasten” the front brake of the bicycle in advance (in the case of rim brakes) or remove the rubber band from it (usually in the original packaging it is secured with an elastic band or a tie).

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The easiest way to tighten the eccentric is to approach the front of the bike. In this case, you can track if the wheel is centered. Tightening is done as follows: turn the wheel clockwise to the left and try to close the lever. If it closes very easily, fold it back and turn the wheel again until the eccentric closes with force. You don’t need to overdo it, otherwise you can break the eccentric!

Now you can pump up the wheels. Recommended pressures are always printed on tires in psi and bar. Bar = atmosphere. Please note: the pressure in the bicycle wheels must be 3 atmospheres and higher. 3.5 is the best option. 2.2 like cars is no good. During operation, periodically check the pressure in the wheels. this is a guarantee of the absence of “eights”.

Install the pedals. The photo shows that each pedal is labeled with an L or R. Sometimes stickers are also molded. L (Left). left, R (Right). right. Be careful: the pedals have different threads! Both pedals are twisted “in motion” of the bike, i.e. left to left (counterclockwise) and right to right (clockwise).

First, we twist them with our hands, and then we tighten them with a key by 15.

If the chain is not in place, it can easily be returned there. To do this, push the foot of the rear derailleur and the chain is weakened. Now you can simply grab it with your hand and put it on one of the front stars.

How to assemble a handbrake on a kid’s bike

A modern road bike with 28 “wheels needs front caliper brakes with a distance of 80 mm from the attachment centerline to the pads. Here are two proven caliper brakes with a distance of up to 90mm. Both brakes showed full suitability and good quality for me.

Option 1. Caliper brake on one axle (like the Salyut bike):

My weight is 85, from my cruising speed of 17 km / h with emergency braking with one front brake on horizontal asphalt it brakes quite effectively, braking distance of three meters to a full stop.

No special deflections or pincers were noticed during braking (thick enough aluminum)

Out of the box, the pliers were not always retracted into the opposite position symmetrically, the right one sometimes remained touching the rim. I blew the hinge with aerosol graphite grease, squeezed it. Now it seems normal. I had to slightly lower the front wing (within the limits of the norm), the right “tick” touched the wing when pressing the brake and wiggled it.

For a walker, it was a perfectly fit brake. The only drawback is that the “tick” levers move slightly up and down in the wing area during operation and the maximum wing raised interferes with the brake operation. Not a problem for standard tires, but when installing 28×2.00 tires it is better to raise the fender as high as possible.

Subsequently, I moved this brake with one axle to my daughter’s bike (wheels 16 ″), it was installed perfectly.

Option 2. Caliper brake on two axles (similar to the HVZ bike):

http://ru.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-LARGE-4.14010208.99999999.390.MRGtU8

At the uniaxial brake, the pincers moved slightly down to the wing during operation, and the wing had to be lowered slightly. With biaxial pliers, all moving parts on the wing side move only to the sides, so the wing can be raised as much as possible. This is important for me, because I have 28×2.00 tires instead of stock 28×1.75. there is not enough space.

The new two-axle brakes have short pads, it seems that at minimum speeds they work harder than the previous uniaxial brakes, and, on the contrary, they brake less intensively at high speeds. But most likely the whole thing is in the pads, on the new ones they are not only shorter, but also a little more “plastic” to the touch.

The biaxial ones have a simple clamp synchronization mechanism, which is good. The axis of attachment to the fork on biaxials is several mm longer, which is also good. In terms of quality, both the old single-axle and the new two-axle are comparable. service brakes, work normally even on small hills.

(in the photo, the pincers axles are smeared with graphite grease to protect against dust)

Installation and adjustment of the front brake; adjustment of both brakes

Now let’s start installing the front brake. Find a curved tube like this in the box. You need to thread the front brake cable into it so that the wide part is at the top, and the narrow tip at the bottom is closer to the brake levers (on the next photo).

We do it as in the photo. The elastic must be put on before you screw on the cable. An elastic band is needed to protect the cable from dirt.

Now we loosen the bolt and put the cable there.

We squeeze the levers so that 2-3 mm remain from the pads to the rim. and tighten the bolt (without fanaticism, otherwise the cable will start “pushing”).

We leave a small part of the cable (5-7 cm.), Cut the rest with nippers (nippers are needed very good, otherwise the cable will fluff at the end). Next, put on the tip and clamp it with pliers. If you don’t have the right tools at hand, take this step later. But do not postpone for long. the cable may “fluff” and you will have to change it.

Further, the cable can be wound by the lever so that it does not dangle.

Now you need to adjust the brakes. It would be good to devote a separate article to such a difficult question, but now I will try to briefly describe the adjustment process.

The precise work of the brakes consists of many nuances. First, spin the wheel (having previously inflated to the recommended pressure). is there an eight? If so, then it needs to be corrected. It is better for an experienced craftsman to do this or look for an article on eliminating eights on the Internet. If everything is in order, we will continue to work.

When assembled, the brake pads must be at equal distances from the rim. This is achieved by tensioning the cable. you can loosen the bolt with which you attached the cable and tighten it tighter. And then there is the “lamb”. it is right next to the brake lever. they can also tighten or loosen the cable. Never unscrew it all the way! The pads themselves must be parallel to the rim. Check if this is so. If not, you need to loosen the bolt that fixes them and adjust their position (see photo). You can, for example, hold down the brake (then the pads will press parallel to the rim) and immediately tighten the bolts.

Now we press the brake lever and see how the brake levers come together. And they must converge at the same time! Look at the video.

If, when you press the brake lever, one lever presses the shoe faster than the other, you need to make the adjustment with special screws (see photo). The adjustment is made as follows: choose the lever where the shoe is faster and stronger pressed against the rim and the screw on this side tighten clockwise by one or half a turn. Click and see if the situation changes. Usually, the pads begin to press against the rim at the same time after adjustment with one screw. If not, then turn the screw on the other lever (where the block is farther from the rim) turn counterclockwise by one. half a turn. Continue the described steps until you achieve the result, as in the video. The same procedure must be done with the rear brake.

Adjusting the position of the pads

“Fasten” the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) in the stop (D). Loosen the block fixing bolt (K) with a hexagon. We press the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:

  • adhered to the rim with the entire surface
  • did not touch the tire
  • located parallel to the rim

In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. When tightening the bolt, the block may move and must be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.

If your brakes squeal, try the following.

Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim when braking (first by the front, then by the rear) and will not “creak”.

We do similar operations with the second block.

Adjust the position of the brake lever and the tension of the cable

To bring the brake lever closer to the steering wheel (for example, so that you do not have to reach for it with your fingers), tighten the bolt on the brake lever.

In this case, keep in mind that you should not bring the handle too close to the steering wheel. It should not touch the grip when fully clamped.

Bicycle Maintenance : BMX Bike Rear Brake Assembly Instructions

When the position of the brake lever is set, it remains to adjust the cable tension. The task is to bring the pads as close to the rim as possible, leaving a distance of 2-3 millimeters between the pad and the rim.

To do this, you can tighten the cable in two ways:

    For a rough adjustment, if the cable is very weakly tensioned, and the pads are far from the rim: loosen the bolt fixing the cable in the brake lever, tighten the cable, tighten the bolt.

While loosening the bolt, hold the lever and the cable so that the cable does not “run away” and you do not have to re-thread it into the seat.

    for fine tuning, we use the adjusting screw at the point where the shirt comes out with a cable from the brake lever.

To make the screw spin freely, loosen the lock nut by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Turning the screw clockwise, we loosen the cable tension (the pads move away from the rim), unscrewing it counterclockwise, we increase the tension (the pads are closer to the rim). When the pads are in the desired position, tighten the lock nut.

That’s all! Checking how everything works. If necessary, readjust the springs of the levers (item 3).

Setting up the brakes means paying attention to every detail, from the brake levers to the brake pads.

First step. Adjusting the brake levers

Brake levers should be located so that they can be reached quickly and comfortably. In order to adjust the position of the brake lever, loosen the fastening screw, place the handle as it is convenient for you and fix it. Usually there is a screw on the brake lever, with which you can adjust the distance of the brake lever to the grip. adjust the position of the lever with it.

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Second step. Position of the brake pads

It is easier to adjust the position of the brake pads as follows: press one of the pads with your hands close to the rim, adjust its position. Make sure that the block is not too low (the edge of the block is below the rim), but also not too high. the block touches the tire.

I would like to draw special attention to the next moment, since there is little clear written about it. Until the nut of which the shoe is fixed is not tightened, the shoe has three degrees of freedom: the washers form something like a ball joint. (Pay attention to how many washers are there? That’s what they are for!). It is believed that the leading edge of the pads should touch the rim slightly earlier than the rear. Therefore, we do this: put a small gasket under the rear end (see fig).

This number of washers is needed to get something like a ball joint

Now you can tighten the nut that fixes the shoe.

Step three. Centering the positions of the levers

At this step, you need to fix the brake cable: so that the brake pads touch the rims at least a little if you press the brake lever. At the bottom of the levers there are special bolts that adjust the tension of the springs that press the pads against the rim.

Band Brake Hub Installation. MTB, Bicycle, Bike Drum Brake

We set it up as follows: press the brake and see which of the pads touches earlier. For the one that touched earlier, we increase the spring tension (or vice versa, weaken it on the other side). It is necessary to ensure that the pads touch the rim at the same time.

Fourth step. Adjusting the distance from the pads to the rim

I believe that this distance should be as small as possible. (1-2 mm. If the rim is even). But then the brakes will work very sharply. the slightest pressure leads to sharp braking. Therefore, the distance can be made a little more.

The distance is adjusted in two steps: first, due to the screw with which the cable is attached to the brakes. Then fine tuning on the brake lever.

The large washer acts as a lock: when it is tightened, the cable tension adjustment screw cannot be turned.

Adjusting the position of the pads

“Fasten” the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) in the stop (D). Loosen the block fixing bolt (K) with a hexagon. We press the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:

  • adhered to the rim with the entire surface
  • did not touch the tire
  • located parallel to the rim

In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. When tightening the bolt, the block may move and must be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.

If your brakes squeal, try the following.

Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim when braking (first by the front, then by the rear) and will not “creak”.

We do similar operations with the second block.

Adjusting the cable length

Before starting the adjustment, check the brake attachment. In case of slight unbalance, the cable can be adjusted on the handlebars of the bicycle. just tighten the mount on the brake lever with a shaped bolt.

  • Checking the positions of the regulators. they must be screwed in the required position.
  • In the area where the cable is attached to the brake lever, unscrew the fixing bolt with a hex wrench.
  • Unscrew the head screw on the brake lever.
  • Remove the cable from the shirt, check it for integrity, replace if necessary.
  • Thread the cable back into the sheath, check for freedom of movement.
  • Connect the end of the cable with a round attachment to the brake lever and screw the head screw.
  • Set the switch to operating mode.
  • On the other end of the cable, pull a rubber or aluminum boot so that the narrow part is directed towards the cable. Secure the cable with the fixing screw.
  • Tighten the adjustment bolts temporarily.
  • Use the pliers to set the optimal level of cable tension: the brake must immediately react to the pressure of the lever.
  • Hexagon adjusts the location of the brake pad relative to the disc or rim at a distance of up to 1 mm between them.
  • After that, the rotation of the drum and the reaction of the pads are checked, which should not touch the disc when the brake is released.
  • When the lever is pressed, the brake pads only touch the disc area.
  • After fixing the cable in the required position, tighten the adjusting screw.
  • Tighten the adjusters on the brake lever to finish.

After fixing the cable, a small piece of the cord remains, in order to exclude it from entering the bicycle system, it must be wound or cut, leaving 8 cm in stock.

assemble, rear, brake, bike

General cable characteristics

The brake cable for a bicycle is made of wear-resistant thin steel or Teflon threads, evenly woven and covered with a flexible polymer material. Teflon lubricants are used for protection.

The most reliable version of the brake cable is made of stainless steel. Constant use of the bike provokes contamination of the outer casing.

Over time, the strength of each core decreases: separate frayed areas are formed that are prone to tearing, delamination and bending.

The cable sheath (braid) is produced in several modifications:

Twisted braid. consists of several pairs of insulated conductors with the addition of metal, each of them is covered with protective plastic, the inner compartment is treated with a lubricant to reduce the amount of friction.

The price category of these braids is low, rarely goes on sale.

SIS braid. spiral braid, instead of thin metal threads, metal sheets are screwed into the spring, the inner surface is treated with Teflon grease.

This type of braid is the most common on the market today and is used on brake and speed cables.

SIS-SP. modernization of a modern rope, it is a parallel threads covered with polymer layers.

Unlike other types, they do not change the length of the wire, and balance the tension. The interior is lubricated with silicone fluid.

The braid is considered the most reliable, due to a number of factors, the braking system works most accurately.

Installation and adjustment of the front brake; adjustment of both brakes

Now let’s start installing the front brake. Find a curved tube like this in the box. You need to thread the front brake cable into it so that the wide part is at the top, and the narrow tip at the bottom is closer to the brake levers (on the next photo).

We do it as in the photo. The elastic must be put on before you screw on the cable. An elastic band is needed to protect the cable from dirt.

Now we loosen the bolt and put the cable there.

We squeeze the levers so that 2-3 mm remain from the pads to the rim. and tighten the bolt (without fanaticism, otherwise the cable will start “pushing”).

We leave a small part of the cable (5-7 cm.), Cut the rest with nippers (nippers are needed very good, otherwise the cable will fluff at the end). Next, put on the tip and clamp it with pliers. If you don’t have the right tools at hand, take this step later. But do not postpone for long. the cable may “fluff” and you will have to change it.

Further, the cable can be wound by the lever so that it does not dangle.

Now you need to adjust the brakes. It would be good to devote a separate article to such a difficult question, but now I will try to briefly describe the adjustment process.

The precise work of the brakes consists of many nuances. First, spin the wheel (having previously inflated to the recommended pressure). is there an eight? If so, then it needs to be corrected. It is better for an experienced craftsman to do this or look for an article on eliminating eights on the Internet. If everything is in order, we will continue to work.

When assembled, the brake pads must be at equal distances from the rim. This is achieved by tensioning the cable. you can loosen the bolt with which you attached the cable and tighten it tighter. And then there is the “lamb”. it is right next to the brake lever. they can also tighten or loosen the cable. Never unscrew it all the way! The pads themselves must be parallel to the rim. Check if this is so. If not, you need to loosen the bolt that fixes them and adjust their position (see photo). You can, for example, hold down the brake (then the pads will press parallel to the rim) and immediately tighten the bolts.

Now we press the brake lever and see how the brake levers come together. And they must converge at the same time! Look at the video.

If, when you press the brake lever, one lever presses the shoe faster than the other, you need to make the adjustment with special screws (see photo). The adjustment is made as follows: choose the lever where the shoe is faster and stronger pressed against the rim and the screw on this side tighten clockwise by one or half a turn. Click and see if the situation changes. Usually, the pads begin to press against the rim at the same time after adjustment with one screw. If not, then turn the screw on the other lever (where the block is farther from the rim) turn counterclockwise by one. half a turn. Continue the described steps until you achieve the result, as in the video. The same procedure must be done with the rear brake.

We continue cycling. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. The same Kama “fig knows what year” acts as a test sample, which, of course, does not provide for fastening on the fork.

The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!

1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.

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This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not tell you about any plastic nonsense.

2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.

Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, an angle grinder is not required.

3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try on a fork and cut it off:

You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a head bolt with a wrench, so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.

The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.

In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:

Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:

There is also such a moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.

4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:

I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.

5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:

You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.

We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):

We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:

That’s it. Next is a test drive. The attentive reader will ask how v-brake behaves on a painted steel rim. Normal, no squeals. Normal brake pads need to be taken and not mess with noname rubber bands.

How to install and adjust the V-brake yourself

  • Attach the levers to the bike frame.
  • Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
  • Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
  • Connect the cable with the levers and put the spring.

After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

The accuracy of the mechanism depends largely on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in terms of efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to the squeeze of the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On the overtightened cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

  • Reset Springs.
  • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
  • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position, the distance from the handle to the handlebar corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

If damage has been noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of rigid material are placed strictly parallel to the surface of rotation of the wheel.

If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.

Unpacking and Installing Basic Bicycle Parts

This is what the bike box looks like when it comes from the factory. All bikes usually have a crankset, chain, rear and front derailleurs, rear wheel, brakes and steering column already installed.

Separately packed steering wheel, seat, front wheel, pedals, reflectors and other small things.

A number of tools are required to assemble the setup:

  • hexagons (4, 5, 6 mm), or better a set,
  • wrench 15 (for tightening the pedals),
  • key for 10,
  • Phillips screwdriver,
  • pliers (for crimping the cable),
  • wire cutters (for cutting the cable).

We take the bike out of the box. Cut off all plastic clamps with nippers or powerful scissors and remove the packaging. Be careful. it is easy to damage the paintwork of the frame at this stage.

First, attach the saddle to the seatpost. To do this, use a 6mm hexagon to unscrew the mount on the seatpost, install it in the grooves of the saddle frame, close it with a bracket on top and tighten it. This clever design also allows for back and forth movement and tilt adjustment. Now it is enough to just tighten the bolt, and it will be more convenient to make the settings on the assembled bike.

We fix the reflector as close as possible to the saddle.

We lower the entire structure into the seat tube to the end and secure it with an eccentric clamp. If it closes too easily, then open it to the end, turn the tightening wheel and try to close it again. If it does not close, on the contrary, weaken.

Next, we are engaged in the removal of the steering wheel and the steering wheel. On different bicycles it happens differently: either the stem is already attached to the handlebars, or not. In any case, the stem is set first. When installing the stem and handlebars, pay attention to the derailleur and brake cables. they should not be tangled. Pay attention to the vertical marks on the stem. this is the maximum possible lift.

There is an important bolt underneath this little plug! Using a 5 or 6 hexagon, the stem is fixed in the steering column, and the steering wheel is height adjustable.

Let’s take care of the front wheel. First you need to correctly install the eccentric (it is in a box with small things). The photo shows the correct position of all elements. Pay attention to the springs. they are located with a narrow part inward, i.e. to the wheel.

Remove the plug and spring from one side of the eccentric (from the one where there is no lever) and insert the axle into the front wheel hub. The question may arise, which side to insert it? Just look at which side it is mounted on the rear wheel (usually on the left) and follow the analogy.

Next, insert the wheel into the fork. It is necessary to “unfasten” the front brake of the bicycle in advance (in the case of rim brakes) or remove the rubber band from it (usually in the original packaging it is secured with an elastic band or a tie).

The easiest way to tighten the eccentric is to approach the front of the bike. In this case, you can track if the wheel is centered. Tightening is done as follows: turn the wheel clockwise to the left and try to close the lever. If it closes very easily, fold it back and turn the wheel again until the eccentric closes with force. You don’t need to overdo it, otherwise you can break the eccentric!

Now you can pump up the wheels. Recommended pressures are always printed on tires in psi and bar. Bar = atmosphere. Please note: the pressure in the bicycle wheels must be 3 atmospheres and higher. 3.5 is the best option. 2.2 like cars is no good. During operation, periodically check the pressure in the wheels. this is a guarantee of the absence of “eights”.

Install the pedals. The photo shows that each pedal is labeled with an L or R. Sometimes stickers are also molded. L (Left). left, R (Right). right. Be careful: the pedals have different threads! Both pedals are twisted “in motion” of the bike, i.e. left to left (counterclockwise) and right to right (clockwise).

First, we twist them with our hands, and then we tighten them with a key by 15.

If the chain is not in place, it can easily be returned there. To do this, push the foot of the rear derailleur and the chain is weakened. Now you can simply grab it with your hand and put it on one of the front stars.

Main functions of the system

The main parameters responsible for the operation of the braking system are:

    Braking force. how much the brake grips the rim and the maximum amount of force required to stop or lock the bike.

The pressure ranges of the lever are called brake modulation.

Wear resistance is an indicator of the expected life of the system, taking into account the observance of the operating rules.

Timely maintenance increases the service life of the braking system.