When to remove the rear wheel
It is unlikely that the idea of unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:
- noticeable damage to the rim;
- complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
- a flat tire or a burst tire;
- bulkhead bushing.
MoonCool FoldableTricycle SevenSpeed Assembly. Replacing Rear Axle Pole
This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.
Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.
I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.
Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unrolled simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns eat up the corners of the nut due to a loose fit and sliding.
Replacing the bike camera
To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.
To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to pull together, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.
You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.
Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.
On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.
The wheels must be installed properly on the bike frame. Misalignment can lead to problems with shifting and adjusting the bike. If the wheel is not securely fixed, it can fall off during the ride and injure the cyclist.
Rigid axle bushings use axle nuts on the outside of the frame plate. The axle nut contains a washer built into the axle nut, or a separate washer. If the washer has teeth or knurls, then they are connected to the recess to secure the wheel. Lubricate the threads on the axle when the wheel is mounted on the bike.
It is often easier to mount the front wheel when the bike is on the ground. When placing the bike on the ground, the axle must be completely in the pad on the frame.
Make sure that the cam lever for locking the axles of the wheels is in the open position and that its brakes are open.
Place the wheel in the pad on the frame. Make sure the hub is fully seated in the frame or fork.
- On the rear wheel, first turn the gear back and place the smallest gear between the top and bottom of the chain. Place the wheel between the brake pads, hooking the smallest gear on the chain.
- Cam mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels: tighten the axle so that the lever meets resistance 90 ° from the frame or fork.
- Straight axle: move the axle in place and turn clockwise until it stops.
- Solid axle: tighten both nuts on the axle until they stop.
- The use of a torque wrench is recommended. However, if it is not available, an effort must be made. For 25 Nm, about 40 pounds of pressure apply to the end of the 5 wrench.
Determine the end position of the lever closing. Rotate the front arm and adjusting nut so that the arm ends up just at the front of the fork. Place the rear arm between the chain support and the seat. Reposition the lever as needed if it is not fully closed.
Re-remove the brake mechanism if applicable.
Make sure the wheel is in the center of the frame or fork. Loosen the nuts on the axle and, if necessary, adjust the center of the wheel in the frame and retighten.
Make sure the brake pad rim is centered on the wheel and adjust as needed.
It is necessary to lubricate the threads on the spokes and place them in the hub flange, leaving an empty hole in between. Next, we are looking for a hole on the right side of the rim, to the right of the valve, we will insert the very first spoke into it and secure it with a nipple.
We proceed to the tensioning knitting needles. Their ends should be on the inside of the hub flange. We insert the tensioning needle, it will intersect with the three driving needles, with the first two it crosses from the top, and the third from the bottom. We also fasten the remaining tensioning knitting needles, tightening the nipples by one and a half or two turns.
Rear wheel hub repair. Step-by-step instruction
Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:
- Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
- Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
- Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
- Tighten the locknut into place.
If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:
- After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
- Remove the hub axle. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the sprockets.
- Checking the details for a malfunction.
- We replace the broken part.
- We put all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and locknut.
The main components of the wheel
A standard bicycle wheel consists of several main parts:
- bushing. the central part, due to which the torque is provided. The interior of the rear hub is slightly more complex than the front. Not every bushing can be disassembled at home, some variations without special equipment and knowledge are better left untouched. And also brakes can be attached to this part;
- spokes connecting the hub to the rim;
- the rim on which the tire is mounted;
So, if the rear wheel of a bicycle needs to be repaired, or if it’s just time to service the spare parts, it is necessary to clarify the procedure that should be taken when removing the wheel.
The rear frame pad in the rigid axle can also have a bolt-on gearshift mechanism. There should be a bolt and nut that holds it. The wheel is mounted on a suspension. The axle should be located on the back of this bracket, with which the right side is moved forward. Tune the wheel and check the nuts.
Recently introduced to the market, a standard sharpened exclusively for fashionable enduro. Hubs are available only in 15110mm and 12148mm sizes for front and rear wheels. As usual in our industry, the rear hub came out with a new line of connecting rods, for a more correct chainline, and the addition of 10mm on the front hub allowed us to make the stiffness of 27.5 wheels are the same as the 26. In any case, this is what the manufacturers assure. On the bushings themselves, the distance between the flanges has increased, and not the thickness of the side spacers.
How to choose a bike axle
Take full responsibility for the purchase and replacement of this part. Remember that a bicycle axle can bend or break only because of its poor quality. In addition, when choosing an axis, remember that they are made from different materials:
Which, of course, determines their reliability. For mountain or road bicycles, there are some structural features.
Standards: Types of quick-release axles for MTB wheels
The bushings on the eccentrics allow you to quickly remove the wheels and not get worn out with the necessary tools at hand. And if you think that eccentrics are flimsy and not worth your attention, then today we will dissuade you!
DIY bike repair: rear hub
Of course, to care for your bike, you need to understand how it works. Of course, in the structure of the iron horse there are many complex and incomprehensible at first glance, but this is not a reason to close our eyes to this. You need to look at the bike from different angles. Today we will not talk about the whole bike in general, but we will focus on what is in the area of the rear wheel of the bike, in particular, on the axle.
The rear axle of the wheel is stationary and is located in a special movable hub of the same wheel. It is precisely such bushings that provide the movement of the wheel, and they do this due to the fixed axle. In order to better understand where the rear axle is, note that it is next to it that the spokes are already attached. If something happens to the cones, bushings or the rear axle, the entire rear wheel mechanism will have to be disassembled and repaired. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that everything connected to the rear axle remains intact and safe.
Mountain bike axle repair
Of course, there are situations when something in the axle breaks. Fortunately, such situations are not desperate. If something breaks, and you still do not understand which side to turn the necessary nut and where to put the cones, the Internet will help you. And we, in turn, will help you navigate the difficult repair business.
What should be considered when repairing? First of all, you need to understand that everything related to the rear bicycle axle is a very delicate matter, which means that you need to approach it carefully so as not to make it worse.
It is important not to lose a single detail, even a small one. Even if you lose a small nut or cone, it will be difficult for you to complete the axle repair without them. The first step is to remove the rear axle of the bike hub, as well as the sprocket block. Of course, when removing it, it is better to put the bike on the side where this block is not. After you remove the rear sprocket block, you will need to remove the bearing ring as well. Everything should be in order, you can see for yourself when, after disassembly and removal, a bunch of small details appear in front of you. Therefore, it is extremely important that every little thing must have its place.
Thru-axle (from the English. Through the axle). have high rigidity and are used in bicycles for aggressive riding. For the rear wheel, they are produced in widths 135, 142, 150 and 157 mm and a diameter of 12 mm. The width of the sleeve itself is adjusted with spacers on the side and 135 easily turns into 157mm without replacing the sleeve itself. For the front with a diameter of 15mm and 20mm and a width of 100mm and 110mm, respectively.
How to sort out the front bushing on bulk bearings
If you notice any extraneous sounds from your bushing or a noticeably deteriorated roll, or maybe a slight backlash, this means it’s time to sort out the bushing.
To begin with, let’s figure out the device of the bushing. Above is a schematic drawing of the main components, among them:
- Axis. The part that attaches the wheel to the frames and around which it rotates;
- Cone. By tightening the cones, you eliminate wheel play;
- Sleeve. The body of the sleeve itself with bearing cups inside;
- Bearings. Balls that allow the axle to rotate inside the hub;
- Lock-nut. Prevents the cones from spinning.
The sleeve can also contain various spacer washers and anthers.
To disassemble the bushing you will need:
- Open end wrenches of a suitable size (one of them must be thin enough to fit on the taper);
- Bearing grease;
- Rags or unnecessary cloth to remove dirt.
What does the rear axle of a bicycle look like?
But all this is only a preparatory stage in the repair of the rear axle, because the most difficult is still ahead. After you put all the parts in order, and the nuts, cones and so on, as for the bushings, will not be scattered in different directions, you will need to remove the bushing screw.
The bushing will then need to be cleaned and all components carefully inspected. This will facilitate the process of further lubrication, which takes place in two stages. This business also needs to be treated as responsibly as possible, because taking care of the axis is an art, and it does not tolerate haste. Before inserting the sleeve into place, the bearings must be returned to their places. Then you can gradually return each part to its place. This is how the assembly process ends, and with it the repair process.
In summary, a key part of a bicycle, the rear axle, deserves to be cared for. Do not be afraid of this difficult process, after the first time it will no longer seem so difficult.
Cleaning and lubrication
It is necessary to clean the balls and cups in contact with them, cone-nuts, axle. In a sleeve with good dust protection, the lubricant is usually clean, so cleaning can be carried out without chemicals. with an ordinary clean rag. If dirt is present, use one of the degreasers we have recommended for cleaning the chain in the material, how to clean old bicycle chain grease at home.
When to Service the Rear Hub
To ensure that the bike parts are always in perfect technical condition, they must be regularly serviced. If we consider the rear hub of a bicycle, then for it you will need:
- periodically tighten the body;
- regularly change the bearing balls;
- at the next disassembly, lubricate all internal parts of the case;
- adjust the brake hub from time to time.
Dismantling the rear wheel itself is as easy as shelling pears, but the process of removing and disassembling / assembling the rear bicycle hub is much more difficult. And nevertheless, without such regular maintenance of the part in question, it may soon need to be overhauled or replaced.
Signs that indicate an urgent need for service on the rear bicycle hub:
- when driving, there is a strong wheel play;
- the crunch of bearings is clearly audible (this means that they are simply worn out);
- on the go, the bike body rattles and staggers;
- rolling dynamics is bad.
It is worth knowing some of the features of eliminating a particular symptom:
- If the rear hub casing is spinning, its looseness, then this can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
- If the movement of the rear wheel is difficult, then it may be necessary to loosen the retaining nut a little. most likely, too much force was applied when tightening it.
- If extraneous sounds appear when the bike is moving and the roll-forward deteriorates, you will need to replace the bearings or completely lubricate the rear hub housing.
How to sort out the rear hub of a speed bike
The word bulkhead in full is relevant only for tapered products. The maximum that can be done in a support on a slip is to clean and lubricate the bearings, and without removing them.
The repair principle for the front and rear cone nut bearings is the same, although the design differences are obvious. A set of sprockets is installed at the back; another design of the anther on the side of the cassette. However, the backbone is completely identical: that in the back, in the front, on both sides, one cone-nut and one row of balls, laid in bulk.
So, the subject of discussion is mountain bike rear cone service. It can be ratcheted, like on entry-class bikes like the Stels or Forward, or cassette like on mid to high-end bikes. By the way, in the material on how to choose a mountain bike. we have figured out in detail the differences between these two designs. There is also a recommendation on which design should be preferred.
How to loop through the rear and front hubs on a speed bike
Bulkhead of the bushing, whether it be rear or front, is an event that can be either forced, due to water entering the bushing, or routine. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a classic cone bike, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles, there is another type of support that also needs maintenance.
How to apply lubricant
The goal is to lubricate balls, cones and cups. This can be done as quickly and efficiently as possible using the following technology:
- Lubricate the cup with your finger.
- Put the balls into the cup using medical tweezers, observing the intended purpose of the groups sorted during disassembly.
- Apply a thin layer of lubricant over the balls.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for the second side.
- Put the boot on the locked cone located on the side of the cassette (relevant only for the rear bushings).
- Apply a thin layer of grease to the beveled surface of both cone nuts.
There should not be a lot of lubricant at the contact points. This statement is relevant only because excess grease is squeezed out through the anthers, and it intensively begins to collect dust. You can estimate the sufficient filling level from the photo. There are usually no problems with the installation of balls. They adhere well to the lubricant, which is already in the cup according to paragraph 1 of the technological instructions.
It is customary to lightly coat the thread on the axle and the ends of the nuts with a compound that was used to treat rubbing surfaces. This activity is designed to minimize oxidation of metals and the formation of rust at the interface of detachable parts.
Main constituent parts
The rear wheel of a speed bike consists of the following parts:
Bicycle Rear Hub Maintenance
If you ignore the need for periodic maintenance of the rear hub of a bicycle, then the life of the iron friend can be greatly reduced. Experienced cyclists know what signs will indicate to disassemble / lubricate / reassemble the rear hub immediately. This process is not difficult, but you need to do everything in a certain sequence.