How to assemble a ratchet on a bicycle

Bicycle rear sprocket ratchet, how to disassemble a ratchet

My VK The size of the balls in the ratchet is 3.2mm Useful videos from my channel about bike repair. 1) Rear wheel hub service. 2) Front wheel hub service. 3) How to fix, align the figure eight on the bike wheel 4) Brakes v brake setting how to adjust and install on the bike 5) Solid oil and lithol 24 can be lubricated or not. 6) KT-305 how the hub with a foot brake works, maintenance, mechanism design. 7) Backlash and shake, the rear or front wheel spins, how to fix it. 8) Replacing and adjusting the rear crossover 9) Adjusting the front crossover of the bike / watch? v = bKvnDcujDRg 10) How to soften the fork on a bike. 11) sr suntour XCT fork restoration and repair 12) Repair of a simple spring bike fork https: // 13) Replacing the bottom bracket on a bicycle, how to remove the cranks, how to remove the bottom bracket, how to disassemble the bottom bracket. 14) Bicycle rear sprocket ratchet, how to disassemble the ratchet. 15) Chain length, how to determine the chain length, remove and tension the chain on the bike. 16) How to disconnect, rivet, bicycle chain. 17) How to use a squeeze for a bicycle chain, a secret. 18) How and how to paint a bicycle frame made of aluminum or stainless steel at home. 19) Replacing the bike front fork 20) Squeaking, crunching and knocking on the pedals and bicycle bottom bracket how to fix. 21) How to disassemble and assemble the bottom bracket on a bicycle, replacing bearings. 22) Repair, disassemble bicycle pedals. Installing how to remove the pedals from the bike. 23) How to calculate bicycle spoke length, spoke calculator. 24) How to latch, replace, spokes on a 36-spoke bicycle wheel. 25) How to replace or install brake pads on bicycle disc brakes. 26) Shimano Tourney rear crossover repair, restoration. 27) Rear Shifter Shimano sis. repair, restoration. 28) How to learn how to ride a bike independently for an adult and a child. 29) BOLI and FLAME disc brakes, installation, tuning and adjustment. 30) Backlash, swing of the rear ratchet sprocket on the bike, how to clean it, what is the reason.

Removing the ratchet from the bike

It is not always possible to correctly see the malfunction when the ratchet mechanism on the bike itself is not always possible, so the best solution would be to disassemble it.

It will not be possible to remove the ratchet mechanism just like that, so we need a special tool. a puller. With this simple device, the ratchet will quickly be removed from its rightful place.

assemble, ratchet, bicycle

Before proceeding with the repair of the ratchet, it is necessary to correctly determine in which direction to unscrew the nut. It is not necessary to lean heavily to one side or the other, otherwise the thread of the sleeve can be rolled up. If the thread is right-handed, screw it up counterclockwise, and put it on clockwise.

Behind the nut is a row of balls, which can themselves fall out of the mechanism. They must be carefully removed, cleaned of dirt and set aside. The disassembled device is cleaned of excess grease and foreign particles with gasoline or thinner.

The same goes for transmission stars. If the stars of the entire system are not worn, and the problem is in the threaded ring, it should be pulled out of the drum and replaced. Along the way, the dog and the spring are changing.

After the bulkhead, the ratchet is put back on the rear wheel hub. To do this, you need to carefully place the bearing balls in their seats, firmly install the mechanism and tighten with a wrench on the bushing. If the ratchet does not work and there is an overshoot of the chain at idle, most likely a new part is needed.

assemble, ratchet, bicycle

DT Swiss. Star Ratchet Install Comparison

  • Remove the old mechanism. This will not work without a puller, do not forget a special key.
  • Inspect the rear hub axle.
  • Mount the new part on the bushing.

If the output of the transmission mechanism is too high, it will be rational to supply a new spare part. In most cases, the problem of malfunctioning ratchets is solved by a simple bulkhead and cleaning from dirt. Finally, do not forget to lubricate the newly assembled parts.

The bicycle ratchet, popularly also known as the nut, is a ratchet mechanism that allows you to reliably transmit torque through the chain from the pedals and at the same time coast freely without the need to pedal continuously. This mechanism is assembled as a single piece with the rear wheel hub. Consists, in fact, of the ratchet itself in the form of a toothed drum with two pawls and a non-separable cassette of sprockets.

Simple maintenance of the bike transmission boils down to cleaning it from dirt and grass that gets clogged between the sprockets.

You will need to remove the ratchet from the bike in the following cases:

  • To adjust the tightening of the rear wheel hub bearings. You can not remove anything, but with the cassette of sprockets unscrewed, it is much easier to remove the ball bearings, determine the degree of wear of the cup, lubricate the assembly.
  • If possible, to replace broken dogs. Although such small parts are not sold individually, and most often you will need to buy the entire assembly, they can be removed from the old ratchet. Unfortunately, there are times when, as a result of the premature death of the dogs, the drum with asterisks either gets jammed, or it starts to rotate freely in both directions.
  • When the teeth of the smallest stars are worn out to the extreme or if one of them breaks.
  • To install the spoke into the rear wheel hub on the right side, to replace the broken.

The difference between a ratchet and a cassette

Before removing the sprockets from the rear wheel of a bicycle, you need to decide on their design. It is important to distinguish between ratchet and cassette. Although they are similar in appearance, they are very different inside.

In the ratchet, the freewheel is installed together with the sprockets. It is such a monolithic system that is simply screwed onto the bushing. The cassette can be disassembled, so one worn sprocket can be replaced. Unlike a ratchet, it is not a monolith with a freewheel mechanism, but is put on it.

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To remove them, you need different pullers. It is important not to confuse them with each other, because they are not interchangeable. They have different splines. If you are still afraid not to distinguish a ratchet from a cassette, a photo will be an excellent tip in this matter.

To understand how to remove a ratchet from a bicycle wheel, you need to watch a useful video.

Unscrewing a stuck ratchet

It so happens that there is not enough effort to disrupt a rattle that has been tightly tightened for several years. In this case, lengthening the key lever will help.

Many in the garage will find an iron pipe or bar about 60 cm long.Then, you can simply put this pipe on the handle of an adjustable wrench or the tooth of an open-end tool, or do a tricky thing and assemble a two-arm lever.

  • Take a couple of short, 6-8 cm long bolts M8 or M10 and pick up two corresponding nuts for them.
  • Insert one of the bolts into the hole in the ratchet puller, and thread the other through the hole in the handle of the adjustable wrench. These bolts should be secured with nuts to hold them in place.
  • We insert the pipe between two bolts: the puller installed in its place and the adjustable wrench put on it. Now all that remains is to push the resulting lever down to disrupt the ratchet.

Usually with a lever from 50 to 60 cm, any rattle is unscrewed in almost one motion.

  • After you have taken apart the nut, notice the color of the grease inside it. The black oil, so to speak, dirty or with noticeable metal particles, indicates the extreme wear of the working surfaces of the dial bearings. In this case, it would be more correct to replace the entire unit entirely with a new one.
  • The removed ball bearings should be cleaned of grease and then inspected for damage. Balls with dents and dark spots must be replaced with undamaged ones.

Manufacturers can install single or multi-speed transmissions on their bicycles. In the case of the latter category of nodes, a ratchet or cassette is installed on the rear wheel. Cassettes have a higher cost, since the ratchet is used mainly in budget class models.

It is quite simple to disassemble them at home. In this article, you will familiarize yourself with the main features of the process and learn how to remove the ratchet from a bicycle wheel quickly and with minimal effort.

Signs and causes of rear chainring problems

To begin with, let’s take a closer look at the ratchet mechanism of a multi-speed bike in more detail.

Diagram of a non-brake ratchet mechanism: 1, 9. cone, 2. left flange, 3. body, 4. axle, 5. internal ratchet compartment with flange, 6. sprocket, 7. lock nut, 8. hub, 10. gasket, 12. bushing, 13. spring, 13. dog.

The pawl engages the rear wheel ratchet. The ratchet mechanism itself crackles slightly at the same time. This is the normal operation of the device. Otherwise, when there is no sound, it pulls the chain forward when driving idle.

The lack of engagement of the dog is usually associated with the malfunctioning of its spring, which pushes the dog. The following factors can serve as the reasons for the malfunction:

  • absence or high density of lubricant in the mechanism;
  • breakage of the dog itself;
  • the spring is worn out;
  • a large amount of dirt;
  • part of the dog is inside the mechanism.

The chipped dog itself can still be repaired separately, but with its seat the situation is much more complicated. It should be noted that this type of fastening of transmission stars is inferior to a cassette in terms of reliability, since an axle breaking in half is far from uncommon. You will have to completely remove the ratchet and install a new one.

How to remove sprockets from the rear wheel of a bicycle?

If this is a ratchet, then everything will be a little easier. If there is special equipment, then even a person who has nothing to do with bicycles can cope with this.

This requires only 2 tools:

  • special puller;
  • adjustable wrench.

First, of course, you need to remove the wheel. Then the stars are removed in two steps. It is necessary to insert the puller into the ratchet, and then try to turn it counterclockwise with a key.

If the mechanism has never been removed, then it can twist strongly (such is its property) and not give in even under great efforts. Then you need to spray the miraculous WD-40 spray there from the thread side. If you leave it like this for a few hours, then the ratchet can be easily removed. It should also be remembered that the larger the lever, the greater the effort. Therefore, you need to take the largest adjustable wrench. Do a couple of jerks and the ratchet will unscrew easily.

You will need another tool to remove the cassette. It’s called a whip. This is a handle to which a piece of a bicycle chain is attached. If you turn the cassette counterclockwise, it will start to rotate. This is where this whip will come in handy, which will hold her. Some craftsmen simply use a piece of an old chain instead of this tool. Then everything is the same as when removing the ratchet.


Another factor affecting the comfort of using a bicycle is the rubber used on the wheels. Since I already have wheel assemblies, and they do not imply the use of tubeless tires, then it was necessary for me to purchase tires. Taking into account the fact that the bike’s mileage is supposed to be mainly on asphalt, special emphasis should be placed on the rolling of tires on asphalt. And a developed system of lugs is not needed at all and even more, evil rubber will deliver more discomfort on hard surfaces than it does comfort on off-road.

assemble, ratchet, bicycle

In addition to the tread, when choosing a rubber, it is necessary to pay attention to the composition of which the tire is made. I remember a time when rubber (cheap and Chinese) was erased to a slick condition in just one season. Nowadays, there are mixtures that are simultaneously soft, excellent adhesion to the surface and unexpectedly durable. On such tires, as a rule, you can ride up to 10,000 kilometers or more. Hard-wearing tires are not cheap, of course, but once purchased, they can be swapped from one bike to another. And you don’t have to go far for an example. One of my bikes still has the Schwalbe Marathon on it. Tires have traveled more than 7,000 km and there are no visible signs of wear.

In addition to durability, when purchasing tires, you need to pay attention to puncture protection. In urban conditions, a wheel can be punctured simply by moving off the asphalt onto the grass. The littering of the land of the megalopolis with broken glass, mainly bottle glass, is so high that the wheels in parks or forest belts are punctured simply. A small, sharp piece of green glass is enough. You can protect yourself from punctures with a special tape that is laid between the tube and the tire, but it is better to immediately take a tire with an integrated protection. Such a tire is more expensive, but will allow you to roll thousands of kilometers without the need to repair cameras.

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What’s the width? On 26th wheels, tires are usually installed in dimensions from 1.75 “to 2.2”. The narrower the tire, the, in general, the better the rolling (although some will not agree with this) and, accordingly, the rider will spend less energy. The narrow tire is also lighter than its wider cousins. But wide tires give much better grip, especially if the tires are evil, with a lot of studs. For the city, a narrow tire with a flat pattern will be optimal, although it will not look as cool as a wide furious rubber. In terms of cord density for everyday use, 60TPI would be quite reasonable.

26 x 1.75 Rear Wheel INSTALL Coaster Brake Cruiser Bike

How to assemble a bike yourself

By the way, everything below and the above does not in any way apply to bicycles of the ashanbike class. We are talking about more or less normal bicycles, suitable for long-term use with the expected level of riding pleasure on a classy machine.

The main motive for assembling the next bike was the desire of the youngest child to get his own adult bike, and not to rent mine. An additional incentive was the stock of 26 complete bike assemblies in the garage. Where do you need to put them in the end? So it’s decided. We are assembling a relatively light hardtail (a bicycle with a shock-absorbing fork and a rigid attachment of the rear wheel to the frame) for urban use with riding mainly on asphalt with an admixture of very light cross-country. And since our city is built exclusively on the hills, the bike will still be a mountain bike, not a walking bike.

The frame is arguably the most important component of any bike. After all, the whole bicycle is built around it. In the old days, when the practice of making bicycle frames from tubes for armored beds was common, there was an opinion about whether the wheel led or not. The meaning of this concept boiled down to how rigid the frame is and how much it deforms when the cyclist pedals, eating up a little muscle energy. After two-suspensions (a bike with shock absorption of not only the front wheel, but also the rear wheel) went to the masses, riders wondered how much the rear suspension absorbs the torsional energy of the pedals. Subsequently, as the main issues were eliminated and the transition to aluminum, and the introduction of normal shock absorbers, it became obvious that other components of the bike, for example, bushings, tires, tire pressure, also affect the roll-off.

What to take the frame from? By the way, almost all frames are made in China or Taiwan before and now. Even European or American brands are made by and large all in the same Asia. There are, of course, exceptions. But these are far from mass products. The days of chromium-molybdenum alloys have almost disappeared. Chromol frames have migrated from a beginner’s category to a bike for a sophisticated nature. The main option for making mountain bike frames right now is aluminum alloy. But progress did not stop there either, simple alloys 6061 or 7005 are gradually giving way to improved alloys with admixtures of scandium or magnesite. Yes, and carbon fiber (carbon) frames or their individual parts are already comparable to ordinary aluminum.

To my great surprise, from the moment I assembled my last bike, the frame situation on the market has changed in an interesting way. If a few years ago the standard for a mountain bike was 26 “wheels, now they are 27.5” and even quite 29 “. Each dimension has its pros and cons. The smaller diameter allows faster acceleration, and it is more nimble, larger diameter provides better grip due to a larger contact patch, and better roll-up coupled with better obstacle clearance.

After the arrival of the frame from far abroad by the postal service, everyone who just tried to pick up the Dorcus was amazed at how light it was. With all the fancy exterior, the frame weighs only 1,750 grams. What is the result, if not excellent, then at least not bad. Despite all the advantages of the frame, there is only one question for it. why did the designers run the rear derailleur cable down the chainstay without a shirt? Or, in China, they ride bicycles exclusively in the greenhouse conditions of gyms with wooden floors? In the conditions of the hopeless Russian skinny, the cable will very quickly drag dirt into the shirts, which will lead to them and its early failure.

Shifters and rear derailleur, chain

Since there is only one derailleur on the assembled bike, it is also serviced by one trigger shifter. By the way, the bicycle shifter in Russian is called the shifter, through a. But why such a distorted name has taken root remains a big question.

To operate the 1: 1 system switch, you need the appropriate shifters. Aside from the many Asian clones, a SRAM 1: 1 derailleur requires a SRAM 1: 1 derailleur. Unlike the shifter itself, the level of the shifter is not that important. For example, I don’t care if the shifter is 20 grams heavier or lighter. This difference in weight will not play any significant role when driving. So I chose a SRAM X5 coin to operate the SRAM X7 rear derailleur. By the way, this combination has been installed on one of my bicycles for ten years. Derailleur and lever work perfectly.

For the rear derailleur cable sheath, a white Jagwire LEX-SL product was chosen. Jagwire components are proven to be reliable and inexpensive, and the abundance of colorways allows you to customize the shell to match your design’s frame color.

It didn’t take long to choose a chain. 9: 1 drivetrain and SRAM PC-951 alternatives are generally not. The chain has the required balance between mileage and cost. Supplied in a plastic box, and the Golden link is already included. Therefore, dances with a tambourine and chain squeezing are limited only to shortening the chain (aha, no matter how it is!).


One of the ways the cyclist interacts with the bike is with the pedals, which he presses on in order to move in the desired direction. The choice of pedals nowadays is not just large, but incredibly huge. You can choose a pedal for every taste and for every wallet. The price depends on weight (the lighter, the more expensive), the use of precious alloys and other lightweight and durable materials, the availability of industrial bearings, contacts and positioning in the spare parts group. Modern contact systems for walking use are not needed, and they will interfere. Plus, they require special shoes. Despite the fact that all my bikes are equipped with contacts, the last time I do not remember when I used them. Just not required for everyday riding.

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But with the shape and material of the pedals, it is better to think carefully. On the one hand, the pedal must ensure reliable adhesion of the cyclist’s shoes to itself, on the other hand, it must be injury-free. To hurt your shin on the pedal on a warm summer evening is a nice thing to do in an emergency stop once or twice. In my experience, the best choice is a pedal made of thick plastic with a developed hook system. Plastic does not break on curbs like brittle alloys, while it does not scratch feet like metal spikes, and with all that, it is also light.

All pedals from the same B’TWIN MTB 100 model were chosen for this task. Reliable inexpensive pedals of a proven design, and even with reflectors.


The wheels I already had, they were left as a set for winter tires of the old two-suspension Merida, which had already fallen apart into its component parts. Front and rear wheels are assembled on double piston rims Atomrims Adventurer (made by Alex rims). Once they were nothing, now, of course, there are much more eminent and expensive rims. Shimano Deore hubs are fitted with DTSwiss solid-drawn spokes. The bushings are tapered, but no backlash, not even a hint of it. And this is after years of lying in the garage!

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The hubs already have brake discs from the same Shimano Deore. By the way, the discs are very good, as I remember how I had to run for a long time to find discs that do not creak. They squeak for Hayes, for BBB, depending on how dirty they are, but for Shimano they do not squeak at all. The rear wheel has a CS-HG50-9 (32-11T) cassette. Material steel, heavy, about 360 grams, but not killed.

Brakes, brake levers

As a child, I rode a Shkolnik bike, and a little later on Kama. The schoolboy could only brake with the rear wheel, it is enough just to press the pedals back a little. In Kama, in addition to the pedal brake, they also added a manual brake to the front wheel. He worked poorly and often just removed him so as not to interfere.

Since then, the brakes on bicycles have undergone some changes, they have evolved. Today, the biker has at least two options for brakes: rim V-Brake and disc. V-BRAKE rim brakes are good for everyone. They are lightweight, inexpensive and provide superior braking performance. But they also have significant drawbacks. So, when the rim is dirty, and it is enough to drive through a muddy puddle, the braking efficiency is significantly reduced. Dirt and sand particles stick to the rim and prevent the brake pads from sticking tightly to the rim. When driving on clay soils, especially in a mess, there is a risk of dirt sticking to the wheels and rims, followed by jamming the entire structure due to the impossibility of the wheels to turn in the narrow grip of the rim brakes. And finally, if the wheel has caught a decent eight, then in most cases the rim brakes will prevent further movement. Due to these shortcomings, disc brakes are used more and more, although they are heavier and significantly more expensive than rim brakes.

Disc brakes are mechanical, where the brake pads clamp the disc under the tension of the cable, and hydraulic. In hydraulic brakes, braking occurs due to the pressure of the brake fluid or oil on the piston of the pads. The system works in much the same way as in passenger cars, it lacks only ABS and vacuum booster. Disc hydraulic brakes improve braking efficiency by using increased gear ratios in the hydraulic cylinder of the brake lever and the piston of the pad. With hydraulics, the braking force can be measured much more precisely, which is especially important in technical disciplines such as Downhill or Free ride. But for normal riding on asphalt or Cross country, mechanical disc brakes are more than enough. They are cheaper and much easier to maintain.

Since my wheels already have 160mm Shimano Deore rotors, it would be logical to take the machines from that de Shimano. I did not fail to use logic and took two Shimano BR-M375 mechanical machines. They are shipped without rotors, which is not much, but saved money.

It will be possible to control the cars on the assembled bike using the Avid model FR-5 grips. Well-constructed handles, lightweight and durable. The cable does not fall out of them, and the tension adjustment does not sour. I took the brake cables and shirts (again in white) from Jagwire. Teflon-free cables, it wears out over time and clogs shirts from the inside, but very smooth. And the SGX-SL shirts have a PTFE lining for extra slipperiness. I took the tips right away with a set of beautiful copper-colored Pro End Caps from the same Jagwire.

Connecting rods and bottom bracket

Once upon a time, adults used bicycles without pedals, and indeed without a transmission. They just sat down, and pushing their feet off the surface of the planet, flew on their wooden horses into the distance. However, nowadays human cubs use similar devices, but made of plastic. But for the assembled bike you need pedals. They have to screw in somewhere. Accordingly, connecting rods and a carriage are needed, where the connecting rods will be fitted.

To my surprise, more or less lively sets of connecting rods with a carriage came out at a cost in the price of the frame. And the most affordable option was assembled from cranks together with SRAM’s S650 C3.0 three-star system. Yes, the model is no longer new, but it is no worse than more modern versions. Installed stars will be removed and replaced by one star purchased separately.

As a carriage, the development of not very recently from Truvativ was also used. The Power Spline bottom bracket is suitable for entry-level XC or city bikes. Just the desired case. Nothing is cheaper with comparable quality and there is no (only a square is cheaper, although our grandfathers drove on squares and nothing). By the way, when installing the carriage, you should pay attention that this requires a special tool, therefore, if you do not have one, then you should install the carriage in a bicycle workshop.