Seat installation step
In your hands, you need to take the seatpost element, the seat itself and a 6-point hex wrench. All locks on the post are loosened with a hexagon, while you should not dismantle the bot completely with your legs. The frames located under the saddle point serve as the base for securing the stem.
Now you can proceed to the installation of the saddle itself. We connect it to the stem and seat tube opening. Immediately you need to start adjusting the slope that suits the rider’s riding style. The tightening in this case must be strong and reliable. In cycling, the correct location is such that the saddle is strictly parallel to the ground.
How the bike is assembled and set up from the packaging
So, in order to assemble a bike from the zero level, you first need to carry out a preparatory stage. Having received a new package with a bicycle, you should open it very carefully, because the set of elements has sharp ends and can injure.
- Frame with factory mounted rear wheel and attachments.
- Front wheel.
- A set of necessary components and necessary spare parts.
- Assembly instructions.
- If the package includes the installation of fenders, then they will also be present in the box.
Now you should open and examine directly the box containing the individual elements and spare parts.
Such packaging is usually filled with the following details:
- instructions for using the product with a completed warranty card;
- a set of reflectors;
- mount for mounting reflectors;
- front wheel eccentric;
- seat post;
It should be noted right away that any packed bike is never supplied with keys for assembly. Each bike enthusiast uses his own toolkit or purchases it at retail outlets.
A legitimate question arises. what tools are needed for the stages of self-assembly of a bicycle?
A craftsman assembling a bicycle bike with his own hands must have:
- a set of hexagons;
- with a knife;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- slotted screwdriver (flat);
- key 15;
It is necessary to dwell on the last point in detail. A packed bike, usually delivered in a factory lubricant. But the task of this substance is to keep the bicycle from atmospheric influences possible during transportation. Your lubrication, for example, involves processing the chain after complete assembly.
After the packaging material is removed and removed, you can go directly to the assembly of the product.
Stage Installation of the steering wheel
Most amateurs begin their actions with the installation of the steering wheel. Used to help a five-point hexagon. You need to act according to the plan provided below.
- We unscrew the upper bolt and remove the protective version of the cardboard sleeve from the stem.
- We spread the cables. The left and right sides of the frame always contain one cable for shifting and / or braking. Putting the stem on the fork rod.
- Using a 5 hexagon, act on the armature cover. After that, we pull together the steering column element. It is important not to tighten it all the way. This bolt is only for steering play adjustment.
- Tighten the bolts to the side of the steering column stem. They are intended for the final fixation process.
- Ideal positioning of brake levers and steering wheel switches.
If your bike is designed with a threaded column, then the stem, in this case, is simply inserted into the frame (into the prepared hole). Fixed with a bolt from the upper section using a 6 hexagon.
Testing involves checking immediately for any steering column play. It shouldn’t exist. Otherwise, we repeat the steps and find an error in the assembly.
Stage Pedals and their setting.
First you need to figure out where the right pedal is and where the left one is. The markings are usually applied to pedal axles. The Latin letter L stands for the left side. And the use of the letter R is right. Pay attention to the different threads of both pedals. The right element must be twisted clockwise, and the left one in the opposite direction. A special pedal wrench will help you to fix the pedals.
Stage We deal with cameras. Both high-speed and regular bikes require full air chambers to ride. The chambers must be pumped up to their working pressure. Such indicators are indicated on the tires. If we take a mountain bike as an example, then the pressure is in the range of 3-4 Bar. For many cyclists, the pump does not have a pressure gauge. In this case, you can use the old old-fashioned method. When pumping, we focus on our weight. That is, when on a bicycle, the cameras should not sag by more than 1/5 of their size. Do not forget that the degree of pressure in the chambers is responsible for:
- the safety of your movement;
- running ease;
- durability of the wheel.
The bike is assembled. You can check all the bolts, tighten to the desired level and move on to outdoor testing.
Stage Install the wings.
The consistent assembly process of the components of the bike will definitely lead us to the installation of the wing. The rear view of the fender attaches to the bike seatpost. There are options for installation directly on the frame.
As for the installation of the front wing, then two methods are possible here.
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- The wing is attached under the fork. The rods of the fork element support it.
- Installation is carried out on the fork traverse.
Therefore, do not throw away the basic instructions right away. It may contain useful and information intended specifically for this model.
The kit must be separated before installation. The installation process begins with the front fenders. The fixing elastic is cut. After that, these elastic bands are attached to the fork stem. Their main task is to prevent the wing from leaving its seat.
How to: Build Your New Bike Out Of The Box
We take an elastic band with a suitable diameter for the given bike. A bracket is also needed. After inserting the elastic bands, they are fastened with nuts. Excess spare parts for other diameters will no longer be useful in our work. The partially finished structure is fixed to the mounting bracket. Now we are installing the wing on the bike.
How is the rear wing assembled? It’s much easier with this point. The process is carried out according to the previous principle. Be sure to arrange everything in order. Seatpost rear fender attachment. Since this place is susceptible to strong shocks and vibrations, it is necessary to place a rubber pad between the wing retainer and the seat post area.
Now all that remains at this stage is to adjust the wing tilt. For this action, special plastic nuts are intended. To select the desired angle, initially the nut must be loosened to the maximum. Such anchorage must be handled gently, therefore, in case of resistance of the wing, it is not necessary to make sharp and strong pressing movements. Otherwise, breakage is guaranteed.
How to assemble a bike out of the box
The bicycle industry does not stand still, it is constantly evolving, improving the technical and ergonomic characteristics of the bike. The technical aspects of the suitable parameter are used to implement the various applications of the bicycle. In order to reach certain heights or increase the degree of comfort, many cyclists improve their iron friend. Some simply change their model to a more modern version, others are unable to part with their pet constantly stuffing it with new details. There is also a third type of user. Inspired by the idea of a healthy lifestyle, they prefer purchasing a zero bike, while intending to assemble it themselves.
In principle, the entire history of cycling and recreation has involved independent actions in this area. If a person assembled a bicycle himself, then he will definitely understand the purpose of each part and thus be able to improve in the future the technical characteristics that suit his riding style. This article is intended for those who have a desire to assemble a bike with their own hands. We will definitely produce Accent for the main functions of the key parts of the bike. The main thing is to correctly perform the step-by-step actions for assembling the bike, focusing on the provided detailed instructions.
Parts and elements of a conventional bicycle.
Stage Fitting the front wheel.
One of the simplest things to do when assembling a bike is to install the front wheel. We act according to plan.
- Comes out of the box with eccentric accessories.
- If your kit was not equipped with this element, this means that the fixing process is carried out by fastening the nuts. In this case, a 15 key or a pedal version is used.
- The eccentric is inserted into the bushing. In this case, the eccentric lever should be located on the left in the direction of the bike’s travel.
- The next step is to mount the wheel directly to the seat on both sides of the fork.
- If the bike has a disc brake, then you need to accurately determine the location of the hit. The place of the brake disc is strictly between the two pads.
- The final touch is to twist the eccentric clockwise and tighten it so that it is parallel to the bike fork.
How to assemble a bike out of the box
Buying a new bike is always accompanied by great joy and anxious anticipation of the first ride.
Perhaps, at first glance, this procedure will seem complicated and impracticable. But, after carefully reading this article, you can easily assemble and configure the bike yourself. This skill will be useful to you in the future, when the question of emergency repairs arises away from home.
- Hexagon set (multitool);
- Open-end wrench 15;
- Auxiliary tools (nippers, stationery knife).
Advice: choose a high-quality multitool with a large number of all kinds of keys! Thus, with a single tool, it will be possible to set up and repair any part of the bike. Another significant advantage of the multitool will be the presence of a squeeze for the chain.!
So, the box with the bike is in front of you, all the necessary tools are at hand. it’s time to start assembling!
If you can ask familiar cyclists for a special rack-bracket on which you can place your bike, this will be an additional convenience during assembly. In case of her absence, just use the help of friends or relatives.
First of all, you need to inflate the wheels according to the recommended pressure. Select an average between the upper and lower pressure thresholds printed on the tire. With some experience, you yourself can easily determine the degree of pumping, depending on the complexity of the relief. In rare cases, if the bike is equipped with disc brakes, the brake rotors need to be screwed onto the wheels. They are attached with six special bolts that come with the bike.
Tip: A quality telescopic bicycle pump is lightweight and compact. It can be easily positioned on the frame using a special mount. Better to give preference to a pump with a pressure gauge. This way you can more accurately regulate the pressure in the tires, thereby extending their service life.
You need to start assembling the bike by installing the handlebar. To do this, you need to unscrew the stem cover, which is fastened with four bolts. Next, we insert the steering wheel into the stem, center it using the applied marks and press it with the lid. The stem bolts should be cross-tightened without excessive force. At the same time, you need to check how the stem bolts are tightened, with which it is attached to the fork stem. Tighten them if necessary.
An important point is the position of the brake levers on the steering wheel. They should be placed in such a way as to continue the position of the palms, without the need to bend them in the wrist.!
Next, you need to start installing the wheels. Often, manufacturers already at the factory install the rear wheel and adjust the speed switch, but there are also completely disassembled options. This procedure is best done on an inverted bike.
Depending on the level of the bike, the wheels can be attached to the frame using special eccentrics or nuts. In the first case, the installation procedure is done manually without tools, and in the second. you need an open-end wrench for 15.
To install the rear wheel, you need to pull the rear derailleur back, overcoming the spring force and inserting the wheel into special slots in the frame (dropouts). After making sure that the axle of the wheel lies flat in the frame, insert the eccentric into its hole, pressing the adjusting nut by hand and close the lever, thereby rigidly fixing the wheel. The pressing force of the eccentric lock or the tightening of the nut is calculated intuitively. It should not be excessive so as not to damage the components, but also not too weak so that the wheel does not fall out while driving. This procedure is carried out in the same way for the front wheel. You also need to take into account that the eccentric lever should be on the left side in the direction of the bicycle and look up in the closed position.
The next step is to install the front and rear brake calipers (the device into which the brake pads are inserted) onto the frame and fork. The fastening of these elements can be carried out in two ways. directly or using special adapters that come with the kit. In the second case, we first install them, and only then we fasten the caliper. To perform this procedure, you will need a 5mm Allen key and four matching bolts (included). After that, you can fix on the frame all shirts of cables or brake lines, which fit into special grooves and are attached using ordinary plastic ties.
Tip: When installing the calipers, be sure to align them with the brake rotors. This will eliminate the possibility of friction between the pads and the rotor, thereby ensuring free rotation of the wheels. To carry out this procedure, you need to slightly loosen the mounting bolts and press the brake lever several times, holding it after the last pressing. Without releasing the brake, tighten the bolts and check the ease of rotation of the wheel. If friction is present, then the manipulations must be repeated to obtain the desired result.
There is only a little left! Installing the saddle and pedals 🙂
Install the saddle so that it is strictly parallel to the ground, and its nose looks along the top tube of the frame, without deviation to the left or right.
When driving for the first time, it is very important to set the correct height and position.
To do this, use the following guidelines:
- In a sitting position, an almost fully extended leg should reach the pedal with the heel;
- In the position of the connecting rod parallel to the ground, the bent knee should form one line with the pedal axis, strictly perpendicular to the ground. This adjustment is done by moving the saddle forward or backward.
These tips will help you pedaling as efficiently as possible, while reducing overall fatigue, as well as eliminating the risk of knee injury while riding.
The pedals are set using a 15 open-end wrench. Note that the pedals are labeled R and L (left and right). This is how they should be installed on the connecting rods. The left pedal is screwed into the crank arm counterclockwise, and the right. clockwise. Often, after buying a new bike, it becomes necessary to adjust the rear and front derailleur. To do this, you can use a special article on our website. Once again, carefully inspect the bike, checking each installed component and if everything is ok. feel free to go on your first trip!
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Assembly instruction for bike forward:
Assembling the bike out of the box
Attention! The following video instructions have appeared on our website: Assembling the bike out of the box and Setting the switches.
So, you have received your cherished bike, packed in a box with careful hands. But, even if you take him out of there, he still won’t go So let’s figure out how to breathe life into this aluminum construction set! We will understand it using the example of a two-suspension bike Haro Shift R1.
It is very convenient to assemble using special stands. brackets. If these benefits are not at hand, you should ask a friend to help you. First of all, we cut with scissors or special cable cutters the plastic clamps that hold all the parts of the bike together. so that they do not scatter in all directions during the careful transportation by Soviet loaders.
Then we remove the protective elements in the form of a film, foam rubber or cardboard from the freed parts and the frame. By the way, the color of the future bicycle is already becoming clear! It is better to immediately pump up the wheels, because when the pressure in the chamber changes, the rim can play a little. Which sometimes entails adjusting the brake settings. The recommended pressure is always written on the sidewall of the tire, but if you pump 3 atmospheres, you won’t be mistaken.
|Fig. 1. Freeing spare parts from foam rubber||Fig. 2. Install the stem|
If your takeaway came separately, the next step is to install it. Carefully unscrew the plug stem cover with a hexagon and remove the cardboard rings holding the plug in place. We put a takeaway instead. If it suddenly does not fit on the stem, do not panic and just loosen the side stem mounting bolts. Also a hexagon. During the entire operation, make sure that the stem does not go down from the head tube. this is fraught with long and dirty searches for the bearings that have flown away and installing them back at random.
Now we put in place the stem cover and fasten it all with a bolt. Remember that the purpose of this cover is not to firmly lock the stem. it should only bring the armature-bearings-head tube assembly together. takeaway “. But the side stem bolts are just designed for rigid fixation, so they should be tightened as much as possible.
|Fig. 3. Side stem bolts||Fig. 4. Give enough force to tighten the stem|
Now we have where to put the steering wheel. Unscrew the front stem cover with a hexagon, remove it and fit the steering wheel. Your friend at this moment is firmly fixing the cover back with bolts. Now let’s figure out how to make sure that you don’t have to repeat this operation many times in a row. Risks are usually present on the handlebars, which are visible even under the stem cover. This should help you to put the stem in the center exactly. The brake levers should be facing forward in the direction of travel and rotated downward 30-45 degrees. This will be the correct position. Also make sure that the cables are on the correct sides of the steering column and are not twisted.
Let’s finally turn our attention to the wheels. If the bike came with the rear wheel removed, then it should be put first. We insert eccentrics into the bushings, and the springs should be on both sides of the bushing, with the wide part outward. The eccentric lever is always on the left in the direction of travel. When fixing the wheel in the dropouts, you must make sure that it is level and the eccentric axis on both sides has reached the extreme point. Make sure the brakes are not preventing the wheel from centering properly. Tighten the eccentric by twisting one part clockwise while holding the other. Now close it so that the lever cannot open on its own. This is usually due to insufficient tightening force, or snagging on objects along the way. The direction of rotation is usually indicated on the tire, follow this. But there is also a bi-directional protector.
Now is the time to deal with the switch cable jackets. They need to be installed in the rails on the frame, in the shifters and in the rear derailleur. It’s no secret that the shifters pull the cable, due to which the gear shift is obtained. When installing the shirts, the cable should be as relaxed as possible. But for installation in the last grooves, the length of the cable is still not enough. so your friend moves the switches, and you finish the operation.
We will now install the pedals. On the side of the axis of each pedal there are letters L and R. Left and right in the direction of travel, respectively. The left pedal has a left-hand thread, the right pedal has a right-hand thread. Tighten firmly, as a loose pedal breaks the threads in the connecting rod, which leads to its replacement.
Let’s put the saddle on. make sure the seat tube eccentric is open, oil the post itself and gently slide it into the frame. We adjust the height to taste and securely close the eccentric. If the pin and the saddle came separately, which happens extremely rarely, the pin attachments are fixed in the center of the saddle slide (they also have a system of marks), and the saddle slope is set parallel to the ground.
|Fig. 7. Adjust the rear mechanical disc brake|
Let’s grab the brakes. If you have vibrake (rim brakes). make sure that each pad when pressed rests on the rim with its entire braking plane, and also does not cling to the tire. If this is not the case, loosen its fastening with a hexagon and fix it. Install the cable into the brake lever with the cylindrical lead head side.
Guide the cable jacket to the front brake so that it cannot snag on the wheel. For this, special fasteners on the fork are provided, if they are not there, fasten the cable jacket with plastic clamps to the sidewall of the crown and the legs of the fork. On one of the feet of the front and rear brakes there is a cable clamp that fixes its position. Loosen it with a hex wrench and achieve such a tension in the cable that provides the brake lever with about half of its full travel to the grip.
Now. if any block clings to the rim when the wheel is moving. there is a small screw at the base of each foot, which can be adjusted with a screwdriver or a hexagon. Do not confuse it with the large screw holding the brake foot in place! When this small screw is screwed in, the brake foot with the brake shoe moves away from the rim, and the opposite foot with the shoe approaches. Accordingly. where it rubs. there we turn it clockwise. It’s that simple! Now we cut off the extra cable so that a tail 3 cm long remains.At the end of the cable, be sure to fix a special tip with pliers.
|Fig. 8. Fasten the brake disc to the hub||Fig. 9. Install the caliper on the fork|
If the brakes are disc. you may need to screw the brake disc to the hub first. We need a special key here. The disc is installed with the labels facing out. Make sure that the directions of rotation of the disc and the wheel coincide. Tighten it tight. the brakes are our everything! Now we install the front caliper. It happens that the adapter comes separately, so we will consider the installation procedure in its entirety. Skip steps as needed.
Fasten the adapter to the plug with the arrow pointing up. Strong. About mechanical (cable) brakes: screw the caliper to the adapter, with the cable entry up. Leave the bolts slightly loose for further adjustment. Install the cable into the brake lever with the cylindrical lead head side. Route the cable jacket to the front brake so that it cannot snag on the wheel. For this, special fasteners on the fork are provided, if they are not there, fasten the cable jacket with plastic clamps to the sidewall of the crown and the legs of the fork. We loosen the hex bolt, which is responsible for attaching the cable to the brake, we pass the cable there and achieve such a tension in the cable, which provides the brake lever with about half of its full travel to the grip.
Now the adjustment. The position of the pads relative to the disc is very clear. Both pads should be at the same distance from the disc and be strictly parallel to the disc. We tighten the caliper mounting bolts. But here, too, you can influence the operation of the brake. One block does not move with us (right), and the second is set in motion by a cable. The position of the right pad can be adjusted with a hex on the right side of the caliper. Rotate to the right. the block is approaching the disc. To the left. moves away from him. The position of the left shoe is adjusted by the tension of the cable, the tighter it is, the closer the shoe is to the disc.
|Fig. 10. Brake caliper||Fig. 11. Adjust the front brake|
Hydraulic disc brakes. The installation is the same as for mechanical ones, only instead of a cable we have a hydraulic line, which is already fixed on the handle and caliper. So we correctly position the hydraulic line, put the adapter (if necessary), fix the caliper with bolts, but do not tighten them to the end. We press the brake lever. and now we are tightening the fastening bolts. In 90% of cases, nothing else needs to be done. But, if the brake is not centered and the disc clings to the pads, we loosen the mounting bolts and manually align the caliper.
By the way, it often happens that brake discs come from the factory with curves. all that remains is to straighten them back using a special key or dexterous hands. Fortunately, it is very easy to do this due to the great softness of the metal, so do not overdo it.
|Fig. 12. Front sprockets||Fig. 13. Setting the rear derailleur|
The ultimate in bike assembly is the setting of the derailleurs. Do not be afraid of this, it is easier than everyone thinks. Basically, upon arrival from the factory, everything is configured. It is enough to insert all the shirts correctly and everything will work fine. If not, here’s what to do.
Front derailleur. If the chain does not change from a small chainring to a large one, tighten the cable tighter. This is done with a twist on the shifter in the place where the cable comes out of it. You need to rotate counterclockwise. The number of revolutions cannot be precisely named, act according to the situation. Do one at a time until the chain goes over. If the chain, on the contrary, does not go from a large to a small star, the cable should be relaxed in the above way. You only need to twist it clockwise.
Also on the switch itself, we have 2 small bolts with the letters L and H near them. This is the adjustment of the switch travel limits. L is responsible for the limit near the frame, H for the large star. You should not touch them unnecessarily, but if the chain falls over a large star, then we screw in the bolt H. If the cable tension is sufficient, but the chain still does not go over to the third (largest) star, we untwist the H bolt. Determine the number of revolutions yourself. the situation is the same as with the tension of the cable. If the chain does not go over to the smallest star, unscrew the bolt L. If it falls to the left of the first star, tighten L.
Rear derailleur. Here we have everything the other way around with the bolts of the limits. L is responsible for the side of the large star, and H for the side of the small star. It is worth tightening the cable if the chain does not go from small to large. Relax. if from big to small. Adjustment of the rear derailleur cable tension is not only on the shifter, but also on the derailleur itself, at the point where the cable enters it.
That’s it, use your wit and dexterous hands! Also remember that if you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them. Call us!
Oh yes! Remember to clean and lubricate the chain!
Happy riding, because a bicycle is freedom!