Removing the carriage of cartridge and collapsible types
Before removing the carriage from the frame, both connecting rods must be removed from the carriage axis.
After that, you should clean the bottom bracket of any dirt, as the frame bottom bracket is one of the dirtiest places on a bike, which is usually difficult to clean until the cranks are removed. Especially carefully it is necessary to scrape dirt from the slots of the cups. if there is a lot of dirt, then it is impossible to insert a stripper into the cup.
0. You may have to use a lot of force when removing the carriage. Therefore, the bike must be securely positioned. If it is more convenient for you, you can turn it upside down.
We begin to remove the carriage from the left side, that is, where there are no stars.
1. On some carriages on the left, reverse the lock nut. It must be turned off special. The key (if it is not there, then ordinary family members can also be used). This nut has a right hand thread. When unscrewing, considerable force may be required. It is necessary to unscrew carefully, do not allow the key to break off. you can damage the nut.
If there is such a nut on your carriage, then go to step 2.
2. Now we take the key for the carriage (slotted or special, depending on the design of your carriage. The photos show the slotted one.) Insert it into the grooves, and turn the left adapter cup out of the frame with an adjustable wrench with a longer handle. It has a right-hand thread. It may be necessary to apply considerable force when unscrewing.
We take out the left cup (together with the bearing, if the carriage is collapsible)
3. We pass to the right side of the bike (where the sprockets are). Again we take the carriage remover and the long-handled key, insert it into the grooves, and turn the right cup out of the frame. She has left thread. It may be necessary to apply considerable force when unscrewing.
4. We take out the cartridge or the right cup with the axis.
The carriage is removed. Now you need to pull out the bearings from the collapsible carriage (if they are NOT pressed into the cup), remove the old grease with a cloth, and rinse all parts in some solvent (usually kerosene).
Installation of the cartridge-type carriage is performed in the reverse order of removal.
We start by applying a little grease to the carriage and adapter cup threads, so that later it will be easier to turn it out.
1. We start from the right side. Using the carriage wrench and an adjustable wrench, screw the carriage into the frame until it stops. The moment should be 50-70 Nm.
The carriage on the right side has a left-hand thread.
2. Go to the left side. Using the same key, screwing in the left adapter cup. The cup on the left side has a right-hand thread. The moment should be the same. 50-70 Nm.
Now you need to install the rods and the system.
Recently, integrated systems such as BB30 / Press-fit are gaining popularity. The design feature is that the bearings are pressed directly into the frame (plastic cups can be used), an aluminum one with a diameter of 30 mm is threaded through them (instead of a steel one with a diameter of 24 mm). This promises a further increase in the rigidity of the knot with some weight reduction. On the other hand, bearing replacement tools are significantly more expensive than conventional carriage pullers.
Classic Press fit for BB30 30mm axle systems:
- BB30: cup inner diameter 42mm, cup width 68mm for highway or 73mm for MTB, bearings without cups.
- Press fit 30 (PF30): cup inner diameter 46 mm, cup width 68 mm for highway or 73 mm for MTB, bearings with cups.
- Press-fit carriages for standard systems with 24mm steel axle:
- BB90 / 95: cup inner diameter 37 mm, cup width 90.5 or 95.5 mm, bearings without cups.
- BB86 / 92: cup inner diameter 41 mm, cup width 86.5 or 91.5 mm, bearings with cups.
- Unique standards requiring their own 30 mm axis system:
- Bbright Direct Fit: Cup Inner Diameter 42mm, Cup Width 79mm, Bearings Without Cups.
- Bbright Press Fit: Cup Inner Diameter 46mm, Cup Width 79mm, Bearings With Cups.
- 386 EVO: bowl inner diameter 46 mm, bowl width 86.5 mm, bearings with cups.
Adjusting the split carriage bearings
After assembly, the carriage must be adjusted, but often it is necessary to adjust without disassembly. For example, sometimes after a long drive on uneven roads, a play appears in the carriage, which must be eliminated by adjustment. Backlash in the bottom bracket can, at best, lead to poor gear shifting accuracy and, at worst, damage to bearings and cups. On a long trip, you can try to adjust the carriage, and not disassemble.
0 Before starting the adjustment it is necessary to remove only one left connecting rod, remove the lock nut (special wrench) and slightly loosen the left cup (slot wrench). Nut and left cup have right hand threads.
1. We turn the left cup almost all the way so that the carriages rotate easily, without jamming, and at the same time have no backlash. Then loosens it with a slotted wrench by about a quarter of a turn.
Screw on the lock nut while holding the cup with a slotted wrench. We tighten the nut special. Key all the way.
Now you need to twist the carriages by hand, and shake it from side to side. If everything is done correctly, then the carriage should rotate freely, without jamming, and not have a noticeable backlash. If it sticks, or there is a backlash, then unscrew the lock nut, and repeat step 1., Loosen or tighten the cup with a spline wrench.
When the carriage rotates without jamming and backlash, you can put the connecting rods.
Sometimes the carriage cannot be adjusted. That is, when you try to make it rotate freely, then there is a backlash. And vice versa, if you eliminate the backlash, then it rotates tightly, with jamming. This suggests that it is time to change either the bearings or the carriage.
Types of carriages according to the used carriage glass. A bike day. Not a day without a bike!
Depending on the carriage glass of the frame, carriages are divided into the following types (the most common):
- English thread (BSA, 1.37 in x 24 TPI). Most common standard. Options depending on the length of the glass:
- 68 mm. Most common,
- 73mm. used on a number of mountain bike models,
- 83 mm. for extreme disciplines,
- 100mm. Fat Bikes.
- With Italian thread (BSC, 36 mm x 24 TPI), tube length 70 mm. used in old road bikes. Still (2013) in use by Campagnolo.
- With French / Swiss thread М35 × 1. used in Soviet bicycles.
The carriage is installed in the reverse order of removal.
0. When assembling the carriage, the most difficult thing is not to confuse the ends of the carriage axis. its right and left sides are different. Usually on the axle or on a plastic casing (some carriages do not have this casing) engraved letters corresponding to the sides of the axle.
The cups will NOT be confused. they have different threads (in the left cup. right and vice versa)
1. We put on a plastic cover on here. Bearings Nesting in Cups. If the bearings have cages, then we lay them out with a cage (balls. inside the cups). Lubricate the bearings with thick grease With the same grease we grease the threads of both cups.
2. We start assembling from the right side. We insert it into the right cup, and screw this cup into the frame until it stops. This requires a slotted wrench for the carriage. The right cup has a left hand thread.
3. Now screw the left cup in the same way on the other side. It has a right-hand thread. Let’s move on to adjust the carriage. (You can go directly to step 1)
They are part of an integrated system. They are two cups with bearings pressed into them, screwed into the bottom bracket of the frame. In this case, the bearings, as a rule, are located outside the carriage sleeve, but they are pressed into one of the connecting rods and have a greater thickness, which ensures a high rigidity of the assembly. The cups are interconnected with a plastic or aluminum spacer that preloads the bearings and protects against dirt.
Road and mountain carriages, as a rule, are incompatible with each other, even from the same manufacturer.
Integrated carriages standards:
- Shimano Compatible:
- Shimano Hollowtech II
- Raceface X-Type
- Chris king
- FSA Mega Exo
The homemade carriage on the bike I assembled consisted of Osh and two 203x bearings driven tightly into the frame. Those were the times 🙂 Now the carriage has become much more complicated. Let’s try to deal with this tricky thing.
Bottom bracket is a bicycle assembly that connects the system to the frame and rotates freely using bearings (usually cartridge bearings). The carriage is screwed or pressed into the carriage glass of the frame.
Separately, eccentric carriages can be distinguished. they can be displaced in the carriage glass of the frame in order to tension the chain on a singlespeed or on a bicycle with a planetary hub. Requires a special frame.
Since the system is constantly exposed to the environment against a background of severe mechanical stress, torsional problems can arise. In this case, two methods are used:
- Soaking the bicycle pedal in kerosene or solvent to maximize the removal of forgotten dirt that blocks rotation.
- Heating of connecting rod and axle. A slight deformation helps to loosen the threads and remove here.
It is also important to carefully tighten it during installation so as not to damage the thread, which is a considerable problem in case of subsequent removal.
Required tools and materials
Before removing the pedals, you need to prepare the tool and auxiliary materials that you will most likely need.
- Lubrication. the removed parts are recommended to be cleaned and lubricated;
- Cleaning rags;
- Kerosene or solvent. in case the wasps are NOT unscrewed or there are large contaminated areas.
- An adjustable wrench is a universal solution, a small one is desirable, otherwise it will be difficult to get to the nut;
- Open-end wrench for 15. fits almost all models;
- Bicycle kit. in case of emergency;
- Pedal wrench. supplied by manufacturers for non-standard nuts and just in sets;
- Puller. addition to clipless pedals. a standard tool, often supplied by the manufacturer, serves to hold the axle when turned to the side with a wrench.
But they are not all the same, and you need to know a little about their construction. So, the pedal is part of a system that includes a set of sprockets, a crank carriage and, in fact, a set of a wasp, platform, bearings and accessories. More on this below.
Structurally, a bicycle pedal consists of several parts:
- Here is a metal pin screwing into the connecting rod. Provides the basis for the rest of the structure.
- Platform. a plane that contacts the foot and is fixed on the axis.
- Bearings. the assembly that connects the platform and the platform, providing rotation.
- Fittings. bolts and nuts that fix all the components of the pedal. Unscrewed during disassembly.
On the platform, the pedals are divided into contact (with fastening for special shoes) and ordinary. The method of removal depends on the type: in contact devices, the fastening scheme is a little more complicated. Combined options, combining, on the one hand, an ordinary platform, and on the other, a contact device, are NOT different in terms of dismantling from contact.
How to properly unscrew the pedals on a bike?
- Pedal design
- Required tools and materials
- Removing the pedals
- Some features
The pedal is a simple part, but due to some mounting features and a very long service life, not every cyclist is able to remove them from his bike on his own. Why remove the pedals?
- Change them after damage.
- Pedal lubrication.
- Connecting rod repair or replacement.
First, let’s look at how they work, what types are there, what features should be considered, what tools to prepare before work.
Removing the pedals
After preparation, you can start the removal process. For conventional mechanisms, it looks like this:
- Move the system to the working side. towards the steering wheel.
- We try to carefully unscrew the pedals from the connecting rod.
- Remove the plug at the end of the platform, open the lock nut.
- We unscrew the lock nut, holding it in the connecting rod with the second key.
- Remove the washer (also at the end).
- Unscrew the cone.
- We remove the platform from the wasp, holding the bearings (it is better to remove them separately, if they are bulk, then put a rag or letter so that they do not roll far).
- Pedal removed and disassembled!
It is important not to forget that the left and right pedals are unscrewed from the connecting rod in their direction: on the right axis. right thread, on the left. left.
Contact devices are a little more difficult to disassemble, but they will not cause any problems. when twisting and parsing, a puller is used, which should be held here with the help of a small contact pad.
Removing the pedals from the bike is easy enough, but don’t forget about preparing tools and materials, as well as possible problems. The main thing is to keep the whole system in order, since in case of damage or other problems, the inconvenience of using the bike will be very great.
Constant mechanical stress on the pedal can cause rotational problems. To quickly cope with them, it is necessary to Heat the connecting rod and behold. As a result, the process of metal deformation will occur. This will help to easily remove here.
To extend the life of the pedal, use a chain treatment agent. Thanks to the solvent, stubborn dirt such as bolts can be cleaned. We use a solvent and a rag (napkin). The solvent in this case can be replaced with kerosene. Also, DO NOT forget about the toxicity of THESE funds.
Before removing the pedals, first you need to familiarize yourself with the structure of this unit. These steps must be performed before any such repair operations. The pedal consists of several parts, and each model can have a different design, namely:
- Here is a special pin made of metal, which is screwed into the connecting rod. She is the base for the rest of the details;
- Platform. a flat surface in direct contact with the sole and located at the end of the axis;
- Bearings are the elements needed to connect the previous parts into a single mechanism, it is they who allow the platforms to rotate;
- Accessories. a variety of bolts and nuts, which hold all the components of the pedal together. When disassembling, the fasteners are unscrewed with special tools.
Depending on the platform, pedals are divided into two groups: contact pedals, in which it is assumed that there is a special mount for cycling shoes, and standard models.
Removal of simple devices requires little effort, and contact mechanisms with more complex latches are not easy to dismantle.
Remove the chain
After removing the rear wheel, the chain will hang from the frame and rear sprocket.
1. Take the chain punch. Chain link Place between the squeeze pusher so that it fits snugly there.
2.With a squeeze, you need to work in the same way as with pressures, direct the pusher of the squeeze to the piece of metal that connects the links (see the figure below).
3. Twist the wrenches until the chain link almost comes out on the other side. The metal bracket that connects the chain links must remain in one half of the link, while the other half must free and the chain will fall apart.
- Alternate between twisting the squeeze into the chain and removing it from the chain, check each time that the chain has not disengaged (while the chain is in the Puller, you will NOT be able to see this). Do everything carefully, do not rush.
4. Once the chain is disengaged, it can be removed completely from the bike. Put it on a blank sheet of paper to avoid smearing it.
Remove the left connecting rod
First, let’s start removing the left connecting rod, it is easier to remove it, since the right connecting rod is connected to the sprocket. Standard threads on both connecting rods.
1. First you need to remove the dust cap. Then Unscrew the connecting rod bolt in the place where the connecting rod connects to the carriage. Most often you need a hex wrench, but there may be options. it all depends on the brand of the connecting rod.
- You should see the threads inside the connecting rod and the bottom bracket shaft.
2. Slightly unscrew the handle of the connecting rod puller, as shown in the figure, the puller pusher should be hidden in its threaded part.
3. Carefully screw the puller into the connecting rod. The puller must enter to the full depth, as when removing the connecting rods, a lot of force will be applied to the threads.
4. Turn the puller handle clockwise, so the pusher will be screwed into place of the bolt holding the connecting rod. The connecting rod with some effort should be dreamed of from the carriage.
Removing the carriage
Remove the carriage. The most time consuming part of the job. You may not be able to do it yourself and you will have to contact a bike mechanic. Please note that there are a large number of carriage models and there are specific keys for them. The article deals with the dismantling of the ISIS carriage. The carriage cups have a standard thread, while the carriage has a reverse thread.
1. Place the carriage wrench on the carriage spindle, which itself is not deep. The key is easy to put on. Work carefully and do not rip off the threads and splines on the carriage.
2. The ISIS carriage has 2 parts. a body and a stop cup. They are threaded in different ways, check which side of the retaining ring is put on. In most cases, the retaining ring has a regular thread, it should unscrew easily enough (when compared with the other side).
3. Select the other side, turn the key counterclockwise until the cup is removed.
4. How to remove the cup from the spindle, turn the frame over and Pull out the carriage, first rotating it clockwise.
Remove the steering wheel
1. Unscrew the bolts located on the stem of the steering column, they tightly fix the steering wheel in one position.
2. Do not lose the lock plate after removing the last bolt.
On this topic
How to disassemble pedals on a bicycle
First, let’s look at the simplest pedal problems (crackling, crunching) that can arise:
- It is necessary to check if there is any damage to the pedal (cracks, chips, etc.)
- Check the attachment point of the pedal axle to the connecting rods, over time it may weaken or moisture and sand may get into the connection. For prevention, you can Unscrew, carefully wipe the thread of the axle and the connecting rod itself, lubricate with thick grease and tighten it again;
- We check the pedal for backlash. To do this, hold down the pedals and try to move the platform in different directions with our hands. If there is play, then this is corrected. Tightening the locknut, which is located under the plug (see Figure)
- If the pedal is spinning tightly or there is play, it is advisable to completely go over the bicycle pedal. It won’t take you a lot of time. Let’s get started:
Only an adjustable wrench is required to remove the pedals from the bicycle crank.
Here the pedal usually has several edges, which allows you to unscrew it without much effort.
Everything, the pedal is completely disassembled.
A bike “Stealth
The manufacturer attracts with serious equipment and carbon frames (StelsNavigator 890DCarbon). An amazing aspect is the attractive price-performance ratio.
The fact that the carriage has become “buggy” can be found only when you rotate the pedals. Visually, knot problems are difficult to identify, so it is best to prick up your ears and move your attention to the area of the bottom of the frame. It is not worth listening too much, especially if you are driving on a busy road. However, if the state of the carriage is not good, it will “scream” without delay.
A faulty bottom bracket will prevent you from cycling quickly. Blocked dirt, worn bearings, and lack of lubrication will continually impede movement. All this is accompanied by an unpleasant creak and a characteristic knock from below. Also, the unit may start backlash (broken bearings and axle misalignment).
You can finally check whether it is really worth disassembling the carriage using the “standing ride” method. To do this, you need to accelerate a little, get up from the seat and twist the pedals. When the carriage mechanism is jammed, the sounds and deterioration of the pedal travel will only increase.
Bicycle bottom bracket: what is it and why?
The carriage is a unit located in the middle of the frame, placed in a special cavity. a glass. Where to looking for? It’s simple: it is hidden where the cranks with pedals and stars are located. The main function of the bottom bracket is to connect the crankset to the bike frame and provide torque when pedaling.
A quite reasonable question may arise: what, without this device, you can not do at all? There is NO bicycle without a carriage. If such one is still caught, it means that he is not in use now.
Depending on the bike model, the carriages differ in size and maintainability. The most common are 68mm knots, but other diameters can also be found. Carriage shaft length range: 110mm, 113mm and 122.5mm.
Types of carriage assemblies:
- Cartridge (disposable)
- Collapsible, to be repaired.
The first type includes carriages that are installed in the frame and cannot be disassembled. It is obvious that the service life of such a mechanism is equal to the time of complete wear of the bearings or axle. Full sealing of the unit allows you to operate it for a long time even in extreme conditions, it does not already mean a measured ride.
Collapsible mechanisms will require periodic inspection and maintenance from the owner. The latter consists in replacing worn bearings and lubricating the entire assembly. In them we will just talk further: how to remove the carriage, eliminate the malfunction and reassemble the assembly.
How to disassemble and remove the bicycle carriage yourself
Perhaps lovers of simple periodic bike rides are NOT familiar with this term, but those who often use a bicycle as a vehicle, and even more so, professionals in the field of cycling, are aware of what a bottom bracket mechanism is.
Like any mechanism, this part over time is exposed to external influences, wears out or even becomes unusable, which requires maintenance, full or partial replacement. In any case, you first need to remove the carriage, establish the suitability of the part, and then decide whether to repair it or replace it with a new one.
Troubleshooting: maintenance, cleaning, replacement
We disassembled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame and what do we see? The state of the bottom bracket depends on how much dirt has got into it and how much the bearings are worn out. Sometimes the bearings simply shatter and require a complete replacement. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in operation for more than three to five years.
First, all parts must be checked for defects. This primarily applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with clamps. If any component has visible damage, then you need to change it to a new one. The rest of the parts are cleaned in a solvent. The most difficult thing will be to clean the bearings: dirt is very firmly adhered between the balls.
The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to sprinkle fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft dry cloth.
Removing the carriage: doing it right!
It makes perfect sense to remove the assembly from the bike frame first to fix the problem. To be precise, take it out of the glass. Just how to do it with your own hands, and the conversation will go.
So, before proceeding with the removal procedure, you will need a set of tools:
- Connecting rod squeeze.
- Wrench. If the size of the nut is unknown, then an adjustable wrench will go.
- Flat screwdriver.
- Small hammer.
- Carriage puller for removing from the glass.
Before proceeding with disassembly, all space around the carriage should be cleaned. A damp cloth removes all dirt and dust from the frame, bottom bracket area and connecting rods. This will be enough so that excess dirt does not get inside during parsing. But it will be better if you wash the whole bike. Cleanliness is the best repair assistant. Proven!
Plugs are removed from the connecting rods. Basically, these are plastic covers, which can be easily pry off with a screwdriver and are also easily inserted back. Next, you need to Unscrew the nuts securing the connecting rods to the carriage. A squeeze will help in this matter: we put it on a nut, then we take the key and unscrew it. Depending on the type of thread, the direction of loosening and tightening the nuts may vary. There is an option where the thread is right on the left side (counterclockwise. loosening), and on the right side. left (against the FM. tightening). Maybe only right-hand thread on both sides, it will be easy to figure it out.
The next step is to remove the connecting rods. The squeeze is inserted at the second end and twisted into the connecting rod. The squeeze bolt is forcibly screwed into the connecting rod, as a result of which it gradually comes off the axis. It is recommended to start removal from the side where there are no transmission stars.
The carriage of the bicycle is held by means of special cups fixed with rings. A screwdriver is attached to the ring so that its end points to the left. By lightly tapping the hammer on the screwdriver, the ring smoothly turns to the left and jumps off. Similarly, by turning to the left, using the shock method, the cup is also removed.
So, finally we got to the bottom bracket bearings. These small parts can be removed with the same screwdriver: pry, and they will pop out.
And, finally, the carriage shaft is pulled out of the glass with a removable device. a rotating part that plays a major role in the mobility of the bicycle cranks.
Carriage Lubrication and Assembly
Using a screwdriver, the walls of the glass are processed. Applies the product in an even thin layer. No need to put grease inside the mountain. It’s useless. Then grease is applied to the bearing, which is inserted from the side of the stars. The flat frame should face outward. Then you need to lubricate the carriage shaft and insert it so that the long end is on the transmission side. In general, the carriage is assembled in the reverse order.
The bearing on the other side is inserted in reverse, with a frame into the glass. The cups are lubricated from the inside and then put on. It is necessary to tighten until the axial play is completely eliminated. In this case, the rotation of the shaft should be slightly constrained. As soon as the fastening rings are mounted, the cup will slightly move away, and now it will spin freely.
It remains to collect the connecting rods. The most important thing here is to put them on so that when pedaling, God forbid, they fall off. Procedure for Effective Connecting Rod Assembly:
- The square is lubricated with a small amount of grease, this will help to put it deeper on here.
- Processing a screw with a thread lock.
- Tighten the connecting rod nut with maximum effort until it stops. You can even lengthen the wrench. the thread will NOT break.
- Inserting plugs.
The carriage is assembled and ready for use. In general, the procedure is simple even for the first time, and in the future it will NOT be difficult to disassemble and install the mechanism at all.