Another most important element of any bike, without a shadow of a doubt, can be considered stickers on the frame and forks. The very stickers on which the owner is indicated and the flag of his country is printed. Without such stickers, the owner of the bike will not be taken to any cycle band, and it is simply impossible to gain the maximum speed without them. A bicycle without stickers from its owner is the same as a sports Zhiguli without Sparco branded rugs. Will not turn on, let alone compete.
Fork, Steerer, Handlebar, Grips, Stem, Rings and Anchor
The dispute over suspension forks is as old as the sport of the British with the Germans over who first invented the bicycle. When choosing a plug, you should first of all think about the purpose for which the final product will be used. For general asphalt, parks and very light cross-country driving, you shouldn’t go for a Downhill fork. However, the opposite is no less true. A suspension fork is one of the heaviest components on a modern bicycle. And in general, the same rule applies: the lighter the fork, the more expensive it is. However, in the case of surebets, this rule has one exception.
Forks on the used working fluid are usually divided into:
- Rigid. a fork without shock absorption is not the best choice on a bike with an aluminum frame. A rigid frame, devoid of at least some kind of elastic element, will mercilessly beat the unfortunate rider on every bump, every crack and hole. But this is the easiest and usually inexpensive option.
- Elastomeric. vibrations are damped by an elastic polymer element. These forks are cheap, relatively lightweight, and are not recognized as working by experienced cyclists. However, this is the most widespread type of forks and the vast majority of people who have at least some kind of depreciation ride on them (and do not know grief).
- Oil. a special oil is used, which flows from one chamber to another provides a damping effect, the same principle is used in most shock absorbers for passenger cars. Oil forks can be as simple as they are super sophisticated with many settings and internal valves. over, the oil is the main component for heavy cycling disciplines. According to the cycling community, oil forks are already what you need.
- Air. compressed air is used as an elastic element. Airs differ from elastomers and oils in that instead of a metal spring, air is used here, which is pumped with a special high-pressure pump for the needs of a particular rider. The main advantage of an air fork is its low weight, because air, unlike oil and metal springs, weighs almost nothing, even when compressed. Air forks are usually used in Cross country, as their performance is no longer sufficient for heavier disciplines.
Of course, there are all sorts of combinations of technologies in one fork, for example, air can be used as a spring, and oil as a damper.
Since I collect the bike not for participation in competitions, but more for trips in the form of a light XC (Cross country), there is not much choice. It’s either oil or air. Air forks are more expensive than oil forks, which is why I had to opt for something that uses spring for damping and oil for damping. Surprisingly, there is not a large selection of forks in the world of leather. All vendors have roughly the same set of components. Only differ. After a long and painful choice between RockShox XC32 and RockShox XC28, I had to opt for the latter. It is cheaper and lighter than the more powerful XC32. The XC28 / XC32 model is far from new, tested by time and many users. According to the assurances of naturalists, starting with the XC28, the forks finally work. Yes, one of my hardtails has an XC32 installed. No complaints have been identified over the years of operation.
I took the RockShox XC28 of medium hardness, since the future rider has not yet grown to my kilograms, but no longer a skinny child with the weight of a shepherd. There is a compression lock mechanism on the fork if you suddenly need to quickly drive up a long climb and do not want to lose pedaling energy, as well as preload and rebound adjustment in case you suddenly want to adjust it exactly to your riding style (in practice, such desires do not arise). The working travel of the fork is 100 mm, which is quite enough for comfortable use of the fork in urban conditions.
Since the frame purchased on AliExpress was supplied by the seller without installed steering bearings, in order to install the fork, you must first install the steering one. The Dorcus frame is built to the latest frame construction standards and has a variable head tube diameter. I had to select the steering wheel on the frame directly from the sellers, and at the same time select an adapter for installing an already obsolete fork with a 1⅛ inch stem. There were no problems with the presence of many sellers in the selection, although the seller himself had to run. It is not recommended to install a press-fit (and there are no others) steering wheel yourself. Installation requires a special, expensive, tool and it is better to entrust the operation to a bicycle master. Otherwise, the fragile head tube may crack and you will have to buy a new frame. The anchor, by the way, came complete with my helmsman, which, according to the seller’s assurances, was designed on industrial bearings. In principle, industrial bearings are a very good thing, especially for such loaded parts as a bottom bracket, steering wheel or wheel hubs. Although in the latter case, one can argue, citing such an argument as on tapered ball bearings it rolls better.
How to assemble Schwinn Boundary Men’s Mountain Bike, 29 ” wheels, 21 speeds, Dark Green and Black
I chose the stem for attaching the handlebars to the usual, rootless, short and with a slight rise. Sellers praised it as an exhibition sample, and so, they say, they are sold twice as expensive. In appearance, it is a little angular, and does not quite match the smooth shapes of the steering wheel and frame, but for a black and white bike you need more than just color contrast. At the same time, three spacer rings were purchased in order to select the fork stem. The handlebars are from the same manufacturer as the seatpost. In terms of weight and shape, it did not differ from more expensive steering wheels, but in terms of cost it significantly won.
Schrader versus Presta
Not everyone can tell right off the bat which system is best to install an air valve on their bike. There are usually two alternatives on the Russian market: the Schrader valve and the Presta valve. Of course, various kinds of game are found in nature, for example, the Dunlop valve, but we will not even consider it.
The Schrader valve is widely used in automotive applications. And if your bike has chambers with such a valve, then you can pump air into the wheels with any car pump and at any gas station with a compressor (although this is not recommended because of too powerful pumping). But the Schroeder valve is thick and slightly heavier than the Presta. For this reason, it makes sense to use a Presta valve rather than a Schrader valve on super light bicycles and slender wheels.
Seat tube and clamp
Finding a remote seat tube for a new frame can be a very difficult task. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here, only a pipe with a seat mount. But no. There is no one size fits all seatpost tubing. Each manufacturer manages to make its own, unique size. over, the size begins to float from one frame model to another within the framework of one manufacturer, and in especially clinical cases (GT, for example), and generally within the framework of different model years in the same frame. Comes to the point that the seat tube pitch is 1 tenth of a millimeter. It is very difficult to measure the inner diameter of a pipe with such precision. Conventional calipers may not provide the required accuracy due to their design, and a slip of even 2 tenths can lead to the impossibility of using the seatpost on a particular frame. It’s ideal to pick up the tube right on the frame: grab the frame and take it straight to the Seatpost World.
When choosing a seat tube, special attention should be paid to its size. If the frame is small and is used by a large, long-legged rider, then the seat tube will have to be substantially extended out of the frame. In this case, there is a risk of cracks in the frame in the area of the seat tube attachment. You need a pipe with a longer length (usually, a notch is made on the pipes in the form of a mowing line, for which you cannot push the pipe out of the frame). But such a pipe, if it does not extend to its working length, will only add additional weight to the bicycle. Therefore, it is worth choosing a pipe for the anthropological characteristics of the future cyclist. As a last resort, the excess length can be cut off.
I was lucky to find a seatpost of the right size and perfect diameter Kalloy Performanced from Taiwanese manufacturer Uno among my stocks. The clamp had to be purchased separately. As with the seat tube, it should be matched to the frame. For the Dorcus frame, a clamp from BBB BSP-87 with a dimension of 34.9 mm came up. Like the seat tube, the clamp plays a role in tenths of a millimeter.
The choice of a saddle is a matter as religious as the question of which is better than IBM OS / 2 or Sun Solaris. Someone prefers narrow sports seats, someone like comfortable wide ones, someone cannot ride without a ventilation slot in the saddle, someone from there, on the contrary, blows too much. As with pedals, the choice of saddles on the market is huge, you can choose the most optimal solution for your ass. It is only important that the mount is compatible with the seatpost mount.
How to Install SHIMANO GEARS in any MTB
My choice fell on a sports narrow saddle, all from the same B’Twin. The saddle was liked not least by the materials used. The upper surface is made of a material with Soft Touch properties, while the insides are moderately soft and elastic. Such a saddle should provide a comfortable ride on the assembled bike.
Some cyclists pay special attention to the material from which the saddle frame is made. Manufacturers can use various metal alloys for its manufacture, ranging from inexpensive to exclusive, and plastic can also be used. It is important that the frame does not break at the most crucial moment, I have come across such cases.
Instructions for the use of saddle types depending on the bike
By the way, the manufacturer gives recommendations on the use of its products in terms of the level of inclination of the cyclist. Let me remind you that for mountain bikes, an approximately 30-degree fit is used in order to avoid injury to the spine when riding over obstacles. For city riding, you can use a more straight fit, but the frame here sets the tone, and we have it MTB.
Shifters and rear derailleur, chain
Since there is only one derailleur on the assembled bike, it is also serviced by one trigger shifter. By the way, the bicycle shifter in Russian is called the shifter, through a. But why such a distorted name has taken root remains a big question.
To operate the 1: 1 system switch, you need the appropriate shifters. Aside from the many Asian clones, a SRAM 1: 1 derailleur requires a SRAM 1: 1 derailleur. Unlike the shifter itself, the level of the shifter is not that important. For example, I don’t care if the shifter is 20 grams heavier or lighter. This difference in weight will not play any significant role when driving. So I chose a SRAM X5 coin to operate the SRAM X7 rear derailleur. By the way, this combination has been installed on one of my bicycles for ten years. Derailleur and lever work perfectly.
For the rear derailleur cable sheath, a white Jagwire LEX-SL product was chosen. Jagwire components are proven to be reliable and inexpensive, and the abundance of colorways allows you to customize the shell to match your design’s frame color.
It didn’t take long to choose a chain. 9: 1 drivetrain and SRAM PC-951 alternatives are generally not. The chain has the required balance between mileage and cost. Supplied in a plastic box, and the Golden link is already included. Therefore, dances with a tambourine and chain squeezing are limited only to shortening the chain (aha, no matter how it is!).
It would seem that the choice of cameras for wheel assembly is a very simple task. But a novice cyclist can fall into a stupor from the abundance of offers at significantly different prices. And other characteristics are sometimes confused. But in fact, everything is relatively simple here. The more expensive a camera is, the lighter it is. At least the rule is almost always the case. And the lighter the camera, the thinner its walls. And the thinner the walls, the worse the chamber holds the air pumped into it. Accordingly, the more expensive and lighter the camera, the more often it will have to be pumped up. And the cheaper and heavier the camera, the harder and worse the bike will ride. And don’t think that the weight of the camera is negligible. A pair of cameras can easily compete in weight with a half frame. Faced with such a dilemma, you first need to decide what the bike is going for. If for racing, then expensive and light cameras are definitely taken. If for daily skiing, then it is better to watch something that is not worth pumping up every week.
Yes, air injection valve on purchased Schrader chambers.
It seems that the concept of ergonomics is inherent only in modern versions and sports bikes. This is partly true. But even with the first attempts to develop your own cycling, it will not hurt to understand in detail the issues of ergonomics. Since improper design can lead to joint damage. Especially in people who spend a long time behind the wheel or are at an older age.
Assembling a bike using an example
In the video, you will watch the assembly process, and how to assemble a modern bicycle out of spare parts. This will be a good material when you decide to assemble the bike with your own hands.
DIY bike drawings
Before assembling a bicycle with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of manufacture and design. As a starting point, you will need the typical blueprints for the bicycles. We offer several examples of constructions with dimensions. They will make the assembly of the bike easier and the selection of parts.
We figure out how to assemble a bike with your own hands in practice (photos, videos and drawings)
In general, it’s not a secret for anyone that Karl Benz used a bicycle frame as a prototype for a car. The question of how to assemble a bicycle with your own hands can arise in two cases. Both if you need to save money, and if you want to make a non-standard model.
If you want to start somewhere and design vehicles, we recommend starting with bicycles. Then you can compete with Christian Koenigsegg in the creation of hypercars or build exclusive bike models. They can be made from available parts or parts. Assembling a bike is relatively difficult and quite accessible even without experience. Spare parts can be made by yourself and purchased.
Many will say: Why is this necessary, if you can take a constructor and assemble a non-standard model. And this is also correct. We suggest that you approach the issue creatively, and then decide on further goals. So how to assemble a bike with your own hands? We need to start by constructing and studying the principles of movement. Interest in what other people have developed often becomes a part of success. In the video, we only show some of the possibilities. Visit our section to get acquainted with new products.
Reinventing the wheel is considered a stupid task, but it is worth shifting the angle to look at the issue from a different angle. This type of transport remains relevant today. You can change its design, use additional devices. They will make your daily movement more enjoyable and comfortable. Watch the video to feel like doing something like this.
A good bike is expensive by today’s standards. The cost is approximately 1100. So purchasing a starter kit for assembly, for example, for UAH 3400, would be a good start. You can choose a simpler option. to disassemble and improve the cheap model, as shown in the video. Or purchase a ready-made build kit known as Sandwichbikes.
We are looking at the design of a mountain bike without focusing on design differences — it is shown in Figure 1. This is another topic that we will definitely touch on. The disassembled bicycle clearly demonstrates what parts the vehicle consists of. The main supporting structure is the frame. It can be of different design and made of different materials.
It is usually made of steel or aluminum pipe, but it can be composite material, plastic, or even wood. It is worth recalling that bicycles were immediately made of wood, then of metal. Already in our time, they can be made from parts printed using a 3D printer. But you need to start with a traditional design, while simultaneously mastering 3D modeling, embodying your ideas in drawings and drawings.
Peugeot B1K Bicycle Concept
Cinneli Laser Pista Concept
The basic element of a bicycle is transmission. With its help, the force is transmitted by means of a chain transmission from the pedals to the rear and front wheels. This is achieved with the help of cranks, pedals are attached to them, and carriages.
Chainrings are also attached to the connecting rod, with the help of which power is transmitted to the drive wheel. The front and rear sprockets, in turn, are connected by a chain. The transmission allows speed control, and some attachments allow gear shifting. That is, this unit works similarly to car parts. over, any classic bicycle is, in terms of motorists, a rear-wheel drive vehicle.
The main task of the designer is to transfer maximum power to the wheels with minimal effort when pedaling. If this is not fully implemented in practice, then an electric drive is practiced. But the goals can be achieved with the help of design features.
The designer bike in the photo is made of bamboo stalks. It could also be a tree. But structurally and in terms of the complexity of the transmission, it is quite simple to implement. You can also make a classic design, designed for execution of metal. Please note that the structural element in its appearance depends on the material from which it is made. Some designers prefer to work with plywood when making the frame. over, the features of this material affect the design and fastening.
From the Editor: Cycling is fashionable
Cycling is a very important part of European and Dutch culture. The tradition has evolved over the course of a century. However, affordable models have recently disappeared from the streets. This is due to the laboriousness of production and the transfer of production to Southeast Asia. But tradition is tradition.
To kick-start your bike design projects, here’s an impressive thesis project by Eindhoven Design Academy graduate Bob Schiller. This piece of engineering art bears the name Epo. The main goal of the developer, in his opinion, is the need to revive the local industry and return production to the Netherlands. Building bicycles for Europe will be very profitable.
Many professionals have deeply enjoyed the design and ambition that gave Bob Schiller the Keep an Eye Grand. The designer borrowed ideas from cars, copying components and parts. Epo is made from sheets of aluminum pressed and welded together. This results in a lightweight and durable construction.
In many modern metropolitan areas, the bicycle remains a means of transportation. In London. the world capital of fashion. a big investment is being made in the cycling infrastructure. So cycling will remain our reality for a long time.
How to set up your gears and rear mech
We recommend our readers to enjoy and see what a great bike assembly is.
Dutch student very successfully wondered how to assemble a bike with his own hands, creating Epo Bicycle.
Mounts are trivial and easy to assemble by yourself Electric drive is available, which increases the transport value of the bike Hand brakes are standard There is a transmission Again, a transmission
How to assemble a bike out of the box?
This article is intended solely for people who have never assembled a bike out of the box with their own hands. There is nothing difficult in this process, but you still need to know some important points that can be missed. I would like to assemble the bike myself as quickly as possible and not wait for a friend or acquaintance to assemble your bike.
What you need to have to assemble a bike?
The minimum set of tools: a bicycle multitool with hexagons and a thin wrench 15 (for winding the pedals). So let’s get started!
Before all manipulations, be sure to place the box vertically, with the long side on the floor. This is how it should be transported and stored. Once the box is installed correctly, carefully remove the staples or tape and open the box. Try to take out of the box all the elements that you can get from there: boxes, packages, individual parts. Only large parts should remain: the frame with the steering wheel and the front wheel separate from the frame. Sometimes small parts are placed at the bottom of the box, then you will get them after removing the frame.
As a rule, the frame is equipped with spacers to fix it inside the box. Therefore, you can get it in only one way. by lifting it up. The easiest way to remove the bike frame is by two people. You need to grasp the fork area and the rear wheel. Pull the bike up with a little effort. it should come out of the box. Take out all the parts left in the box. Carefully, using a clerical knife, remove the packaging from all parts. Do not scratch the frame with a knife!
We have an unpacked bike in front of us, ready to be assembled. As a rule, it remains to carry out only a few manipulations so that you can sit on it and go. Less often, on budget models of bicycles, a complete assembly is needed. We will not consider this option, because it is not worth buying at all. The so-called ashans. bicycles sold in supermarkets such as Auchan, Metro are generally not worth the effort to assemble and the money to buy them is simply a pity. they are not worth it. Of the necessary manipulations, the installation can be distinguished:
- seatpost with seat
- front wheel
- brake adjustment
Determine the correct fork position when setting the stem: this can be easily done by looking at the brakes. V-brakes must be at the front, the disc brake fork must be rotated so that the brake machine is on the left side of the bike. After the fork is rotated to the correct position, loosen the bolts holding the stem on the steering column and place it in the correct position by pivoting forward. It is most convenient to do this when the bike is between the legs and you can easily expose the stem to the eye relative to the frame. it should be an extension of it. Then tighten the bolts firmly.
Once the stem is in place, it only waits for the handlebars to be properly installed. To do this, you need to turn the steering wheel correctly so that the brake and speed control cables are not pinched or bent anywhere. It is important! Otherwise, your cables will not live for a long time, moreover, it creates a danger due to the failure of the brakes in an emergency.
We unscrew the bolts on the stem, which should hold the steering wheel and remove the bracket. We put the steering wheel, put on the bracket and tighten the bolts tightly. In this case, the position of the control sticks should be comfortable for the rider. Some rudders also have a scale on which you can set the rudder most comfortably for you.
Installing the seatpost is a highly customizable experience. It all depends on the size of the rider. For more information on setting the correct rider position, see How to customize your bike. This setting is important for a comfortable ride for the cyclist, treat it with care.
Fitting the front wheel couldn’t be easier. Removing and installing the front wheel you will do quite often, if you not only ride a bike, but also move it in transport.
There is only one difference in the installation of the wheel, the only difference being the type of brakes. When installing a wheel with a disc brake, it is necessary to untwist the eccentric axle by an amount sufficient to seat the wheel in the seat of the frame. In this case, it is necessary to install the axle into the frame up to the stop! After the wheel has settled into the mounting place on the frame, tighten the nut (often the nut has a plastic cap) and clamp the axle with the eccentric handle. The clamp should be quite tight, but not very strong, as you can clamp the wheel very hard and it will brake.
Instead of an eccentric axle, classic 15 nuts can also be used, which are clamped using a conventional 15 spanner.
When installing the pedals, keep in mind that the pedals have a thread that is designed to twist when the pedals are rotated. Therefore, the right-hand pedal has a right-hand thread, and the left-hand pedal has a left-hand thread. In order to properly install the pedals, you need to tighten them by turning the key towards the front wheel. As a rule, on each pedal, from the end, the markings L. left or R. right are put. Before tightening, it is advisable to lubricate the thread, otherwise if the pedal sticks, it will be very difficult to remove it for replacement.
To adjust the brakes, you need to know just a couple of points.
- Rim brakes are installed after the wheel is installed. After the wheel is installed, it is necessary to insert the curved tube with a cable into the bracket until it stops, which is on the same tube. In this case, the distance from the pads to the rim should not be more than 2mm. There are grooves in the brake bracket to adjust the shoes. To adjust the pads, you need to use a hex wrench. The pads should run parallel to the rim, at the same distance on each side.
- When installing disc brakes, remove the spacer between the pads. It is important not to press the brake lever at this moment! Fine tuning of the disc brake is practically not required. Sometimes you need to put a cable on the brake machine. This is done using the same 4-5 mm hexagon. The cable is clamped in the machine, leave the tail of the cable 20-30 mm.
When all the described manipulations have been carried out, the bike is ready to use! We recommend that you lubricate the chain before driving, as it is covered with a layer of oil that is insufficient for its normal operation. Have a nice ride!
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