How to adjust a bicycle wheel. Velobaggio
The wheel is one of the most important parts of a bicycle. If you take two bikes. one super duper and the other a cheap ten-speed one. and swap wheels, the cheaper one is faster. But finding good wheels is not easy. And the fact that the wheel is balanced at the time of purchase does not at all guarantee that it will remain so during operation.
The very process of wheel alignment requires high qualifications and, as a result, a lot of experience. Many professional riders do almost all of the bike tuning themselves, but the professionals rely on the wheel alignment. Therefore, you must be prepared for the fact that the first time you may not be able to do the alignment well. To work you need a special wrench for the spokes (more precisely for the nipples of the spokes). Nipples come in different sizes: 3.22 mm., 3.3 mm., 3.45 mm., 3.96 mm. It is important that the key fits exactly, otherwise it will slip.
It is desirable, but not necessary, to have a special wheel straightening machine and a tool for measuring the tension force of the spokes. And it’s really great if you have a special tool for centering the rim relative to the hub.
If you do not have a special machine, you can adjust the wheel on the bike using the brake pads of the rim brakes to assess deformations. In this case, it is necessary to especially carefully check how level the wheel is and how the brakes work.
The actions are usually described in steps: the first step, the second, etc. In this case, most of all, some operations will need to be repeated several times. It is quite possible that after straightening the ovoid (radial displacement), the lateral displacement will have to be corrected again, or vice versa.
There are several criteria for evaluating alignment: Lateral offset Radial offset Spoke tension Centering relative to hub
All of these misalignments are corrected by tightening the spoke (turning the nipple clockwise) or loosening the spoke (counterclockwise). In this case, only the nipple rotates, the spoke itself does not rotate.
The spokes on the right pull the rim to the right. Those on the left. to the left. If the spokes are taut on one side, then the rim will be “skewed” at this point. It is worth paying attention to the following important point: the spoke affects not only the section of the rim to which it is attached, but also the neighboring (but to a lesser extent).
One spoke tension acts on adjacent rim sections
Since few people have a wheel straightener, the further description is focused on the option with installing a wheel on a bicycle. Naturally, before adjusting the rim, you need to remove the tire and tube. (There should also be a flipper. such a strip that protects the camera from the spokes, you can immediately remove it).
You can start inspecting the wheel with the tension on the spokes. If there are knitting needles that are not at all taut, you need to tighten them.
You can measure the tension of the spokes using a special tool. Each wheel has its own recommended values. The rear wheel spokes always have a tighter tension than the front spokes.
Analog and digital spoke tension meters
Perhaps experienced mechanics can tell the tension by sound or feel. But it seems to me that this is not the most reliable option.
Many bicycle mechanic specialists do not know how to properly assemble wheels at all, which can be ridden for a long time without adjustment. But even qualified mechanics do not have enough time for thorough work and skip some operations, as a result of which quality and reliability are reduced. Therefore, it is best to understand and assemble the wheels yourself. This is done as follows:
Lubricate the spoke threads and rim with oil where they touch the nipples. Without this, it is impossible to pull the spokes tight enough.
If the holes on the hub flanges are countersunk on one side only, the spoke heads should be on the non-countersunk side. countersink is designed to bend the spoke.
Insert nine spokes into one flange so that there is a free hole between them and so that the heads are on the outside. If it is a rear wheel, start at the right (threaded) side of the hub.
Take the rim, find among the holes offset to the right, the closest to the right of the valve hole.
Insert the first spoke into this hole and turn the nipple two turns. This spoke is called the key.
Count four holes clockwise from the key spoke, insert the next spoke and tighten the nipple.
Check what you have done for the following conditions:
but. The threaded part of the sleeve faces the worker;
b. The spoke closest to the valve hole is to the right of it;
from. Both spokes connect the right side of the rim to the right flange of the hub:
d. Three free holes between the spokes.
If all these conditions are met, secure the remaining seven spokes using every fourth hole in the rim.
Flip the wheel. Now it is facing you with its left side. Next, you need to connect to the rim nine spokes inserted from the outside into the left flange.
Find the key needle. It is located to the left of the valve hole or through one nipple hole.
The tenth spoke should be next to the key to the right (left. in the original) of the valve hole. In this case, the tenth spoke should not cross the key spoke.
After installing the tenth spoke, the remaining eight spokes of the left flange are dialed in the above sequence.
Now half of the knitting needles have been dialed. In the case of the rear wheel, these spokes are called drive spokes. Their heads should be on the outside of the 2 flange. If you look at the rim, pairs of free holes and pairs of holes with nipples should be interspersed along the entire circumference. The nipples should only be screwed in a few turns.
We turn to the tension spokes, the heads of which should be on the inside of the flange. We pass one tensioning needle through the hole in the flange and twist the sleeve so that the already dialed needles receive a direction as close as possible to the tangent to the flanges. For a rear wheel, grasp the threaded part of the hub and turn it clockwise. The first idler spokes intersect the three pre-assembled drive spokes (counting only those belonging to the same flange). Each tension spoke should run outside of the first two spokes it crosses and inward under the third crossed.
When assembling the first nine idler spokes, be sure to insert them into the corresponding holes in the rim, i.e. in those that are offset to their flange.
The rest of the tension needles are recruited in the same way. In this case, it may turn out that the ends of some of the spokes do not reach the nipple holes. This is usually caused by one or more of the nipples snagging on the rim with their tips and not going into the holes. If this is not the reason, then you have turned the nipples too far, which, until all the needles have been dialed, should turn no more than two turns.
Before tightening the knitting needles, screw all the nipples to the same depth. For example, with long knitting needles so that their ends come out flush with the splines of the nipples. If the spokes are short for this, it is sufficient that the same number of threads are visible on all spokes. Uniform screwing of the nipples is very important because greatly facilitates the entire further process. In this case, the spokes should not be taut yet.
In the case of the rear wheel, now is the time to tackle the umbrella. The right knitting needles should have a higher tension than the left knitting needles. For most bushings, it is sufficient as a first approximation to tighten all right nipples an additional 3.5 turns.
We proceed to even tension of the knitting needles. Starting from the valve hole, turn each nipple one turn. If there is a lot of slack in the knitting needles, add one turn at a time. In this case, after passing three-quarters of the rim, it may become difficult to turn the nipples. This means that the second turn is excessive and all nipples tightened on the second turn should be returned to their original position, i.e. unscrew one turn. After that, we start again from the valve hole and screw all the nipples half a turn.
We install the wheel on the machine and see which unevenness of the rim is greater. vertical (ellipse) or horizontal (figure eight). You always have to rule the biggest one.
Let’s say we start with a figure eight, and the worst part of the rim is offset to the right over the four spokes. Two of them go to the right flange and two to the left. Tighten the left nipples a quarter of a turn, and release the right ones by the same amount, this section of the rim will shift to the left. However, the tension of the spokes does not change, since as many spokes have been loosened as tightened, and, moreover, by the same amount. If the section of the rim is shorter, for example, of three spokes. one left and two right, you can pull the left spoke half a turn, and release each of the right spokes a quarter of a turn. This is the principle of wheel balancing, thanks to which horizontal beating can be eliminated without compromising the vertical.
It may not be enough to completely correct this unevenness, but if there is improvement, you should not try to immediately achieve the final result. Now find the worst rim deflection to the left and tighten it. Thus, we go from one side to the other, we keep the pre-defined umbrella. Do not try to straighten the figure 8 better than 3 mm at this point. This is done during the final alignment after adjusting the umbrella and ellipse.
Find the section of the rim farthest from the hub. By pulling the knitting needles in this place, they bring him closer to her. This increases the rigidity of the entire wheels. The principle of balance described above also applies here. Suppose the plot found has three nipples. two left and one right. If you tighten the two left-hand spokes half a turn each, and the right one one turn, then the rim protrusion will retract without disturbing the uniformity of the tightness. In this way, you can straighten the ellipse without degrading the noteworthy figure eight.
Find the next section of the rim that is farthest from concentricity and pull it out as described. Then the next section, and so on. Each time the wheel will get closer to the circle, the spoke will be pulled tighter.
To what extent should the knitting needles be tightened? The best thing is to be as stiff as possible before the nipple edges start to eat away. the tension on the spokes gives the wheel strength. While riding, at any given moment, the various forces applied to one spokes are added, those applied to the others are subtracted. The spokes must have sufficient tension so that if the forces applied are weakened, the spoke never loses tension. Consecutive cycles of tension and sagging result in fracture.
If the wheel is already round and the spoke tension is insufficient, tighten all the nipples by the same amount (for example, half a turn) and check the wheel for concentricity again.
Straightening an ellipse requires more tightening than a figure eight, and in this case, you can tighten the knitting needles half a turn or even a full turn at a time. For preliminary dressing of figure eight. quarter and half turn, for precise dressing. 1/8 and 1/4 turn.
The rear wheel umbrella must be in a plane halfway between the lugs of the rear hub. Otherwise, the bike will tend to turn to the side.
The easiest way to check the correctness of the umbrella is the distance from the rim to the brake pads. This distance is measured when the wheel is in the normal position and when the right end of the axle is inserted into the left tip (i.e. the wheel is upside down). In both cases, the distance must be the same. However, this method is suitable only if the axis is not bent.
To adjust the umbrella, with the needles fully tensioned, release the nipples on one side by the same amount and tighten the nipples on the other side (usually 1/4 turn). If the spokes are not very tight, you can only tighten the nipples on the side where you want to slide the rim. At the same time, the rigidity of the entire wheel will also increase.
The final setting consists in sequentially repeating all three processes, straightening the ellipse, figure eight and umbrella. Adjustment of one can affect the rest, so at each given moment you need to work on what is most different from the norm.
Now you should have a wheel that is no different from the serial factory one: all three parameters are within the normal range, the spokes are sufficiently tight. Many mechanics would consider the job finished. However, when driving, such a wheel will quickly go out of the norm. The fact is that the spoke heads have not yet fully entered the holes of the flanges, and the nipples into the holes of the rim. When driving, they begin to “sit down” more tightly and upset the balance of the wheel.
There are several ways to shrink knitting needles. For example: take the wheel in both hands, push hard on the spokes at their intersection, turn the wheel and do the same with the next four spokes, and so on along the entire circumference of the wheel. At the same time, creaks and crackles will be heard, that is, the sound of shrinking spokes. After this procedure, the wheel may become somewhat out of order. Adjust it again and repeat the needle wrench. Continue the whole process until it stops affecting the rim and the sound stops.
There is another reason why the wheel quickly goes out of order. This is the twisting of the knitting needles. When tightened tightly, the rotation of the nipple can initially twist, i.e. turn the spoke instead of pulling it up the thread. For example, suppose you want to tighten a knitting needle a quarter turn. In this case, the following happens not so rarely: first, at one eighth of a turn, the spoke itself rotates together with the nipple, then the thread is fed and pulls the spoke for the remaining 1/8 of a turn. After a while, the twisted spoke gives back and unwinds the tightening in the nipple. The easiest way to get rid of this is to tighten the nipple 3/8 of a turn and then loosen it 1/8 so that a clean 1/4 turn pull-up is obtained without twisting. With some experience, you will feel when the spoke begins to curl. A beginner can, before stretching, apply marks on all the needles with a felt-tip pen, which will rotate when twisted.
After the wheel is fully balanced, make sure the ends of the spokes do not protrude above the rim. Otherwise, they must be cut down.
Remove any remaining grease that will spoil monotube or chambers!
Take your time when adjusting the wheel. If you are tired, put off work and return to it only with a fresh mind.
Adjusting the bushings or how to overcome the “backlash
When there are already many kilometers behind, then any technique needs maintenance and adjustment. You are already accustomed to the sounds that your bike makes when riding, but if you take it by the frame and again abruptly lower it to the ground, but you hear not only the usual tinkling of the chain, but also a dull thumping is not clear from where, then it’s time to check the bike for backlash! It is not at all difficult to detect backlash. It can appear in the steering column, bottom bracket or wheel hubs. With one hand we will hold the bike by the frame, and with the other hand we will try to swing the wheel from the side.
If the wheel rim sways in the frame or fork from side to side and a tapping is heard in the hub, then the cones need to be adjusted. Most bicycle hubs have loose bearings. This means that there is a track in the sleeve, into which balls are poured and pressed by a cone. The compression of these cones will just need to be adjusted.
To adjust the cones, it is recommended to stock up on special adjusting keys. They differ from ordinary keys in their thickness. Adjustment of the front and rear wheels is carried out in the same way (the front is a little easier to adjust due to the lack of a cassette with stars). First you need to remove the wheel from the bike. Open the eccentric lever and loosen the nut on the opposite side.
Then completely pull the eccentric clamp out of the sleeve. The main thing here is not to lose the small springs that make it easier to install the wheel in the frame. Now you need to remove the rubber anthers from the bushing (we remove both anthers at once from the front, and the one on the left from the rear). Do this carefully so that the anthers remain intact. If the boot sits tightly, then you can pry it off with a thin, not pointed object.
Now take the keys and open the cone. To do this, rotate the lock nut counterclockwise, holding the cone with the second wrench. Start with the cone located on the left in the direction of travel (this does not apply to the front rim brake hub, as it is symmetrical).
When the locknut is turned out almost to the end, we unscrew the cone after it.
Now we push the axle to the right side of the hub so that there is access to the right cone and locknut (in the case of the front wheel, this is not required, since the cones on both sides can be adjusted simply by removing the anthers).
It is necessary to counter the right cone just in case. After all, it is possible that backlashes appeared precisely because of this cone. To do this, holding the cone with one key, turn the lock nut clockwise with the second key.
Pull the left cone and locknut back to the bushing by hand. Now let’s use one little trick. We take an eccentric with a nut, but without springs, and insert it into the bushing so that the eccentric lever is on the side of the cassette.
Then we pull the wheel to the frame as shown in the photo and begin to tighten the cone with a wrench, immediately checking how the wheel is spinning. When the wheel rotates freely and without play, we begin to tighten the locknut, again holding the cone from rotation.
With this method of adjustment, it is important not to apply excessive force, otherwise there is a risk of spoiling the eccentric. But on the other hand, this way you can adjust the cone even alone, being away from home and workshop. If, after adjustment, the bearings are overtightened and the wheel moves in jerks, then this means that the cone should be loosened by loosening the locknut again and unscrewing the cone by half a turn. Achieve smooth rotation and after tuning, remember to counter the taper!
Now we install the wheel in place, not forgetting to install the rubber boots and give the eccentric its usual position. when the lever is to the left of the bike. And the most important thing. springs! If they are still not lost, install them before tightening the eccentric. Now your bike will once again delight you with quiet operation and good handling.
How to adjust the rear bike hub?
If during the operation of the bike you find that the rear hub began to work incorrectly and there were knocks or problems when the wheel was spinning, then you need to adjust this hub. Bushings are different. The easiest way to adjust the bushing is “on balls”. This bushing has a long service life, and its repair is simple and not difficult.
Adjust A Bike Wheel’s Cup And Cone Rear Hub
1 First of all, determine which bushing you have installed. The ball-on bushing is provided by wide bushing flanges. If you cannot visually distinguish the type of bushing, then feel free to unscrew the axle. If a ball bearing is found on the flange inside the cup, continue to follow the instructions.
2 Any bushing consists of an axle, a bearing, adjusting cone nuts and control nuts. The adjustment of the sleeve is determined by the position of the adjusting cones. These cones are rotated using a conventional wrench. Thus, if a backlash appears in the bushing, it is enough for us to tighten these adjusting nuts.
3 Remove the rear wheel from the bike, take the necessary keys. Unscrew the counter nuts from the axle using the wrenches. If the bushing is newer or less new and in working order, then the nut will be unscrewed only from one side. After the control nut, unscrew the cone and remove all washers.
4 Now remove the axle from the hub. In doing so, be extra careful and try not to loose the balls. If the ball enters the inner space of the bushing, it will be very difficult to remove it from there. Therefore, try to carefully remove all the balls from the cups and put them in some kind of container or on a tray.
5 To access the flange where the cassette is installed, it will need to be removed. For this, a special stripper is used, which is called a cassette stripper. The cassette is simply unscrewed. Keep in mind that there is a reverse thread and this part is unscrewed in the direction of the wheel’s free wheel. Those. the wrench must be rotated in the direction of idling of the ratchet. Please note that removing the cassette is not easy and requires a lot of effort. The cassette itself is blocked from scrolling using the so-called. whip.
6 Wipe all parts of the bushing with a rag. Now you can also remove the bearing from the cassette-covered flange. Clean it up too.
7 After that, it is necessary to install a “dead” nut on the side of the bushing that will work for twisting. During the movement, the friction forces will tighten it, but since the nut is already tightened, the sleeve will continue to work. If this is not done, then during the movement, the sleeve may twist and stop rotating.
8 The “dead” side is very simple. The control nut and flare nut are tightened relative to each other using wrenches.
9 Now you need to assemble the bushing in the reverse order, not forgetting to grease all the rubbing elements with grease (for example, the so-called Litol)
10 When adjusting, you will need to rotate the control nut and achieve such a position so that the hub axis rotates freely and smoothly at the same time, and at the same time does not play. Do not overtighten the sleeve. The bushing is overtightened if it is impossible to turn the wheel around its axis, holding the axle with your fingers.
The adjustment of the rear derailleur of the bicycle is carried out as follows:
- The mechanism is tuned to the smallest of the stars.
- The cable is loosening. For this purpose, the clamp screw is unscrewed.
- Front derailleur chain mounts to middle sprocket.
- The functionality of the circuit is checked. To accomplish this task, the pedals are simply rotated. If the chain falls, you need to adjust the high gear limiter screw. As a result of this action, the smallest of the stars in the front and the rear derailleur are on one side.
- The cable is tightly tightened and the tightening bolt is clamped.
- The switch is being tested. Each speed, from lowest to highest, is clicked. If a failure occurs in any area, the cable tension is re-adjusted.
Adjusting the rear derailleur should be done with the utmost care. All actions with the cable are performed smoothly. You need to be patient and avoid sudden movements.
Features and varieties
The Shimano product line includes a large number of derailleur categories depending on their purpose:
The very first thing to check on the front frame is its height. During installation, inaccuracies often occur when the switch is too far from the stars, or when it touches them. The mechanisms are imperfect and the purpose of the height adjustment is to properly adjust the frame (about 2-3 millimeters above the large star). After installation. check the distance by turning the system with the attached chain.
Rear derailleur setting
You can only adjust the rear derailleur after you have configured the front derailleur. The bike must be secured so that you can freely pedal and change speeds. Alternatively, turn the wheels upside down and fix it on the steering wheel.
Turn on the fastest speed (smallest star). Loosen the cable by unscrewing the mount. Move the cable tension grandmother to the middle position so that you can loosen and tighten the cable. The adjustment of the rear device is carried out, as in the case of the front derailleur, with the High and Low screws. The High screw is set first. You need to find such a position in which the chain will be tuned exactly to the star, and will not slip and bounce on it.
Then shift the gear to low (the largest sprocket) and repeat all the manipulations with the Low propeller. The setting should bring the chain straight over the sprocket. After setting up the rear device, you will need to tighten the roller. Set the front derailleur to the smallest chainring, the rear derailleur to the largest. Rotate the pedals back and watch if the roller hits the cassette. Adjust the roller with the tensioner bolt. After this setup, test it “in the field”. that is, in real driving. Try rolling on a flat surface, over bumps, or downhill. Pay close attention to how the bike behaves. Adjust the switches if necessary by adjusting the granny or screws.
Initial checks on a rear bicycle derailleur begin with the derailleur mechanism. complex than the front, it can hide more problems in itself than can be corrected with a tweak:
- The rooster is a special attachment, and, being usually a separate part from the frame, the rooster is damaged by falls and even serious loads, therefore it is very important to check its parallelism to the frame and, in general, its integrity.
- Recoil spring. its defects are often perceived as problems with the cable jacket, as they look the same: switching on the loosening of the cable becomes problematic. Springs are usually changed along with the entire device.
- The cable feed is a secondary test, on many derailleurs, especially budget Shimano, the cable runs into the rear derailleur from the back, creating a kind of “loop”. It is on it that damage usually appears, since this point is easy to damage when falling or driving on the grass.
To understand the process of self-adjusting the speed switch, you need to know the definition of some specific terms, otherwise it will be difficult to understand the instructions.
- Speed switch (crossover). This is a transmission element that is specifically responsible for gear shifting. If there is a rear crossover, then it also acts as a support for the tension of the bicycle chain. The crossover (back and front) can be described as follows: it is a parallelogram mechanism equipped with a powerful return spring, on which the frame is fixed. The rear derailleur has two rollers inside the frame. if the level of cable tension increases, then the frame shifts the chain to large stars, and if this cable tension decreases, then the chain is shifted towards small stars with the help of the frame. The mechanism of the front derailleur works in the same way.
- Shifter. It is designed to switch speeds by changing the tension level of the cable. Most often, the shifter is located on the handlebars, but in some models of bicycles it can also be located on the lower tube of the frame triangle. Note:shifters and speed switches have a common connection on the steering wheel (this is provided by a cable) and are covered with a jacket.
- Cassette. This is the name of the rear transmission unit, which consists of stars of different sizes (of different diameters and with a different number of teeth) and is installed on the rear hub drum. If the bike is old, then a ratchet is used instead of a drum in the rear hub.
- Cock. It is a metal part that helps maintain the integrity of the frame and rear derailleur in the event that the vehicle has been hit. The rooster is always attached to the frame, and a cross-over is already attached to this metal part. When a blow occurs, it is this very cock that breaks, and the frame and the speed switch (crossover) remain intact.
- System. This is the name of the front transmission unit, which consists of stars of different diameters and with a different number of teeth. These stars are fastened to each other and the connecting rods with special hollow bolts on the connecting rods, but you need to know that there are no hollow bolts in cheap bicycles. the stars and connecting rods are riveted to each other.
Unregulated. description and examples of car brands
Car models of later years of production are equipped with unregulated systems and more often even not serviced. The gap between the components is compensated for by the preload and the tightening torque of the hub nut.
Modifications HUB 2, 3 are combined with a hub base. This solution simplifies operation, but there is no provision for offset installation. the entire element needs to be replaced. Some variants have a spline cut for the drive axle.
Adjusting a cup & cone type bearing (rear wheel)
Unregulated pairs are installed (example):
|Non-adjustable Ball double row||VW Caddy, Eos, Golf, Jetta, Passat, Touran (all years)||Both axes|
|LANCIA Lybra (1998-2005), Musa (2004-2012), Ypsilon (present)||Both axes|
|Skoda Octavia (all generations)||Both axes|
|RENAULT Trafic III from 2014 (HUB 4, integrated in the disc)||Front|
Tightening torque. why observe it
The tightening force is the force with which the fixing nut is screwed along the thread of the axle shaft, trunnion. Correctly selected moment ensures the required compensation of the axial distance, the correct operation of the entire system. Consequently:
- angular displacement of the clips is excluded;
- the wear of balls, rollers, tracks is reduced;
- wheel loads are evenly distributed;
- there is a margin for thermal expansion during operation;
- the contact patch of the rolling elements increases under longitudinal loads.
The correct axial distance ensures the correct tension of the fastening. Failure to comply with the moment leads to a number of problems:
- wedging of the hub;
- increased metal wear due to excessive friction;
- squeezing the lubricant out of the working surface.
An under-tightened wheel bearing leads to complete deformation and rapid wear.
Backlash and axial displacement
For rollers, balls, it is important to have a certain gap. This is due to the thermal stresses that affect the assembly during operation. An increase in temperature leads to expansion of metal elements.
This is a sure road to premature wear. Due to the lack of distance, the elements experience excessive friction. Axial play is capable of compensating for the value.
The fact of the presence of a large gap will contribute to the gradual breakdown of the bearing, rolling elements and raceways.
The size of the axial play in the adjustable units is changed by tightening the locknut, as well as by changing the width of the spacer between two single-row tapered bearings.
By tightening or releasing the nut, the optimal free play is selected, which is required for stable operation. Further practice. how to check and adjust the axial clearance.
This value refers to the first, which is adjusted when servicing the hub unit. Axial clearance. this is a displacement in the axial direction by a certain distance, at which the outer cage moves relative to the inner cage with a minimum effort.
The axial distance determines the tightening torque with which the assembly is pressed. This parameter is often used when calculating the amount of torque applied to a nut. A bearing overtightened by a strong moment has a zero axial index, which is fraught with overheating under load.
In adjustable hub units, the process of changing the axial clearance occurs by tightening the nut and measuring the clearance.
How the wheel bearing can be adjusted
Next, we will analyze the theory and practice of regulation. Let’s highlight a few important points before starting work on adjustment:
How To Adjust Cup & Cone Wheel Bearings On Your Bike. Maintenance Monday
- The lift is performed after a certain mileage.
- Diagnostics of the condition of the spare part is carried out on each axis.
- Most of the defects are due to natural wear and tear of the elements.
- Due to high mechanical loads, the clips lose their roundness, which leads to seizure.
Rear wheel defective
If the rear wheel of your bike is loose, you need to remove it and take the following steps:
- Disconnect the ratchet to gain access to the locknut and taper.
- Disassemble the bushing, wipe it, removing dirt, as well as the old grease.
- Assess bearing condition, especially raceways, view radius nuts.
- If a malfunction is found, replace the part with a good one.
- Return the bushing parts to their places, lay with fresh grease.
- Tighten locknuts, cones.
- Compress the cone, as well as the locknuts on the side where the ratchet is installed, and on the other end, adjust the bearing tension.
- Replace the ratchet.
- Check the ease of rotation (it should be smooth), fix.
- Install the wheel to the frame.
The front wheel is noisy
Having discovered a malfunction of the front wheel, you must immediately find out what the reason is and make repairs. When disassembling the front wheel, you need to take the following steps one by one:
- Remove the wheel from the bike frame.
- Disassemble the bushing in detail, clean it.
- Check for damage.
- If there are no malfunctions, re-grease, install separate bearings.
- Tighten the radial nut on one side of the axle, then tighten the lock nut.
- Bring axis back.
- Twist from the other end, so that the length of the nuts on the sides of the axis is equal.
- Secure bearings with normal tension locknuts.
- Make sure the nuts are evenly tightened (work should be done with two thin open-end wrenches).
- Install the wheel in its original place, tighten it with nuts for clamping.
- Check if the wheel rotates smoothly, if there is any backlash.
- If a gap is found, remove it using a washer.
What to do?
If it’s just loosening the nuts, a wrench will help solve the problem. The preload between the radius nut (cone) and the locknut is loosened, the gap between the locknut and the bike frame is filled with an engraver or washer.
The front and rear wheel devices are different from each other, therefore, the stages of inspection of each of them must be said separately.
What to do if a bicycle wheel is wobbling
While riding, a cyclist often notices a strange shaking of one of the wheels. To understand why this is happening, you must immediately dismount and carefully examine the damage. To do this, you need to remove the wheel, take it by the axle and turn it first in one direction, then in the other direction. Taking thin wrenches, you need to adjust the clamping of the locknut and check for backlash.
The wobbly wheel problem has traditionally been associated with backlash. Backlash, or a gap, typically occurs between interlocking mechanical parts that rotate in close proximity to each other. In other words, one element of the system starts to move, while the other remains motionless. On a wheel, this happens due to the fact that its plane is displaced in relation to the hub or axis of rotation. In the latter case, the wheel shifts to one side or the other and begins to “beat”, moving along the figure eight.
Who is guilty?
If your wheel began to wobble noticeably, most likely one of three things happened:
- the bike worked at its limit and was often subjected to heavy loads;
- poor quality parts were installed on the bike;
- parts have become unusable due to long-term operation.
At the “micro level”, some detail could be erased, leading to the formation of backlash. Rotational errors are usually caused by the following technical or mechanical problems:
- the wheel hub is erased;
- the cone wears out, which is why the bearing raceways become unusable;
- the notches of the locknut are erased, leading to too tight adhesion of the locknut with the cone.
What will happen if “not treated”?
If the problem is triggered, the wheel hub will completely fail, rendering the wheel inoperative. Any cyclist can detect a backlash even without a specialist examination, therefore, for the “iron horse” to feel normal, a good master’s gaze is quite enough, providing from one technical inspection a year.