How to change the chain on a bicycle. How to remove the chain from the bike, change and install a new one
The chain is the key element of the bike’s transmission assembly. Sequentially passing through the teeth of the drive sprockets, it transmits torque to the rear wheel, thanks to which the bike rides. In the process of movement, the chain mechanism is subjected to dynamic loads, which over time leads to its wear.
On singlespeeds, as a rule, the chain is designed for the entire life of its operation: when moving along the stars, it runs smoothly and straight, without deviations. Chains are more complicated on multi-speed bicycles: there is no right angle between the front and rear sprockets, which is why it is always at an angle relative to the frame. The stresses on the chain mechanism increase several times compared to the parallel transmission, which leads to periodic wear. To avoid damage to the entire transmission unit caused by wear of the chain, it must be replaced in time.
Not only do the “speed” chains need to be removed, they are often removed from single-speed bikes for periodic repairs or cleaning. How to remove the chain from the bike and put it back, we will tell you in this article.
First of all, attention should be paid to chain malfunctions on multi-speed bikes. Traditionally, the travel time is determined by the mileage, but these values are too approximate, because everything depends on the conditions of cycling: road quality, gear selection, speed, load on the pedals and, accordingly, on the chainring.
The first signs of a bike chain failure are inaccurate gear shifting and suspicious sounds (provided the chain has not lost its lubrication). The following method will probably help to determine the malfunction: bend it away from the largest sprocket and see the number of free teeth. If the chain leaves three or more teeth freely, then replacement is required urgently. Two prongs “warn” that wear is not far off, but you can still ride.
Using the same method, you can see the weakening of the chain on a single-speed bike: bend it away from the chainring and see the number of teeth.
Determination of the degree of attenuation
Another way to measure wear is to measure length:
- 304.8mm. Optimum Chain Length.
- 306.5. 307.5. average wear, suitability for repair. You can still ride.
- 308 mm. high degree of wear on both chain and stars.
- than 308 mm. damage to the entire transmission.
Measuring elongation requires removing the chain completely from the bike.
Lock and solid chain
The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put on it. you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, we carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a detachable link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: a tick is put on top, which fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer’s inscription is usually embossed on the key link. If you cannot find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.
Bicycle chain with a lock
A bicycle chain without a lock simply cannot be disconnected: all the links on it look the same, however, and are hooked to each other too. This is a great inconvenience when cleaning, for example, it is necessary to carry out a “general cleaning” in a solvent. In the case of the keylock, everything is simple. he stole it and put it in kerosene. Solid bike chain, even taken off the stars, will remain hanging on the frame.
In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is certainly more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason, the fastening may become loose: the tick fly off, and the link itself can be disengaged. There are no such weak points on bicycle chains without locks, and if it is torn, then the point is solely in its quality.
Opening the lock and pressing the link axis
Opening the lock is quite simple: use a screwdriver or other object (for example, a knitting needle) to pry on the clamp clamp. The main thing here is not to damage it, or even better. not to lose it, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the chain later. Next, we disengage the entire link. That’s it, you can remove the chain and do whatever you want with it: clean it, throw it away or shorten it. However, we’ll talk about this a little later.
A solid chain can only be disconnected with a special tool. a squeeze. With its help, it will be possible to easily disassemble the link without damage. The procedure is simple, but you shouldn’t rush:
- First, select the link for disassembly.
- We insert the chain into the position of pressing out and pressing in the pin (link axis).
- Use the handle to tighten the screw and take out the axle. Extrusion direction. towards the pressing screw, that is, towards yourself.
You should not completely remove the pin, since it will not be easy to return it later.
Gall chain release device
The squeeze loosens the axle a little, therefore, when re-uncoupling, another link should be selected. Pressing the axle into the link is carried out in the opposite order: connect the adjacent links together and press the pin in with a screw.
Elimination of defects
A common form of wear is chain slack when chain length increases from original length. Previously, the critical values of the length of the bicycle chain were considered, at which it cannot be used. Everything is correct, but the chain does not have to be thrown away immediately, but it can be repaired. Under prolonged loads, the axles loosen, which causes longitudinal and lateral expansion. It is impossible to eliminate the transverse, but it is quite possible to tinker with the longitudinal.
It is necessary to remove unnecessary links in such a way that the chain calmly, without interference, passes over the large star. With the help of a squeeze, excess links are removed, the axial shafts are completely pulled out from the removed elements. The main thing here is not to make a mistake and not pull out too many links.
If you have to ride with an extended chain, then in order to avoid its falling off, you can install so-called chain dampers. parts that prevent the chain from flying off when driving. There are several types of such devices:
- Roller with two clips.
- Wide rollers.
- Frame (or rollerless).
This is what bike pacifiers look like.
Using pacifiers as protection is fine, but it would be better to consider changing the circuit.
Fitting the chain to the bike
To put the chain on the singlespeed, it is enough to hang it on both stars, press in the pin or click the lock. With high-speed bikes it will be a little more difficult:
- Fix switches to small stars.
- Considering the position of the tensioning rollers, put the chain on the stars.
- Combine links.
- Clamp the chain and press in the axle. If the bike chain has a lock, we do without squeezing.
After the installation is completed, it is necessary to check the course of the chain: turn the pedals several times. If no sagging or obstruction is observed during torsion, then the chain is of the optimal length and is installed correctly.
Every owner of a two-wheeled horse will be able to cope with the removal and installation of a bicycle chain. An uncomplicated and simple procedure will not take much time, but it will perfectly help on further trips!
How to replace a bicycle chain
Turn your bike over so that it rests on the seat and handlebars for easy handling, or if you have a bike repair stand, be sure to use it.
On most bicycles, the rear wheel is bolted down, so you need a 15mm Allen wrench to remove it. Road bikes usually have a locking skewer that can be manually loosened.
Loosen both bolts (or skewers) on the rear wheel and remove the rear wheel from the bike.
Now open a cold beer. Professional bicycle mechanics always have a tasty micro-cooker on hand while they work. If you’re lucky, your 15mm wrench has a built-in bottle opener for this very reason.
Use a chain tool to break the chain at one of its joints. Align the tool with the top of the chain as shown and screw it so that it pushes one of the pins out of its link.
The chains are very dirty, so gloves are best. Blue nitrile gloves are best for keeping grease and grease out of your fingers.
Remove the chain from the bike and save it so we can size the new chain For multi-speed bikes, note how the chain is threaded through the front and rear derailleurs when you remove the chain.
It’s time to get your gears properly cleaned. You don’t want all that dirt to quickly ruin the new chain. Clean all cogs from dirt and shine!
The new chain should be cut to fit your bike, and look at the old chain to find the right length. I count the links because the old chain is probably a little “stretched”, which reduces the measurement accuracy.
Break the new chain to the required length using the chain tool as before. Be careful not to push the pin out of the chain because you will need it to close the chain later (most chain tools prevent this).
Slide the new chain onto the bike, making sure it runs through the rear frame and derailleurs (if you have one).
Use a chain tool to insert a free pin into the other end of the chain to complete the connection! Make sure the pin protrudes evenly on both sides.
Slip the chain over the rear wheel cog. If you have a single speed bike or a gear train with an inner hub, remember to pull the rear axle back into the rear dropout until the chain is very tight.
Tighten the rear wheel to the frame again. everything is almost ready!
Finally, apply a drop of lubricant to all of the chain links and wipe off the excess with a rag. You are now ready to ride again.!
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How to prevent a bike chain from falling off. try these simple tips
Shipping the chain can be annoying at best and sometimes dangerous, especially if it happens in traffic, so you need to minimize the chances of this happening by tuning your bike correctly.
If your chain starts to come off frequently, which was not the case before, then something has changed in your bike settings. The first thing to do is to check that all the bolts of your drivetrain are tight, that nothing has moved or hit, and make sure that your rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts.
Let’s see how you deal with other possible reasons your chain is breaking.
If the chain comes off at the front
Adjusting the front derailleur stop screws
If your chain slips off the chain, make sure the two stop screws on the front derailleur are properly adjusted.
One of the screws. sometimes, but not always, marked with an H for “high” restricts the outward movement of the front derailleur cage.
Another screw. sometimes, but not always, marked with an L for “low”. restricts front derailleur cage movement inward.
If your chain regularly breaks off the inside of your sprocket, the L-screw may need adjustment. Place the chain over the smallest chainring on the front and the largest chainring at the back. The inner plate of the front derailleur cage should almost but not quite touch the chain; we are talking about a gap of 1-2 mm. If the clearance is greater than this, turn screw L clockwise to move the front derailleur cage inner plate closer to the chain.
If your chain often breaks off the outside of your sprocket, your front derailleur screw H may need adjustment. Place the chain over the large chainring (front) and the smallest sprocket (rear). The front derailleur cage outer plate must not completely touch the chain. If there is a gap greater than 1-2mm, turn the screw H clockwise and you will see the cage move inward.
Read more: How to Adjust Front Derailleur Indexing
You can still disconnect the chain from time to time, even if the stop screws are properly installed, especially if you are shifting under load (standing or pedaling hard) Try to reduce the effort (but still pedal) when shifting between the chainrings.
Another way to prevent the chain from falling out from within the chain. use a chain catcher.
Chain catcher. it is essentially a lever that prevents the chain from sliding inward. SRAM Red, Force 22 and Rival 22 front derailleurs have an integrated chain catcher.
If you don’t already have one on your bike, you can retrospectively install the chain catcher. There are different designs and they are all fairly easy to install.
Read more: Lifting the chain catcher (no, really!)
If the chain comes off at the back
Rear derailleur stop screws adjustment
If your chain comes off at the back, it is often sufficient to simply adjust the stop screws on the rear derailleur.
If the chain comes off the inside of the cassette, place the chain over the smaller chainring (front) and the largest chainring (rear). Then turn screw L clockwise until you see the rear derailleur frame (overhang) starting to move away from the center of the bike, you need to move it to a point where the chain can move freely into the largest sprocket, but no further.
If your chain breaks off the cassette, slide the chain over the largest chainring and smallest sprocket. Then turn screw H clockwise until you see the rear derailleur frame begin to move towards the center of the bike. You need to move it to a point where the chain can move freely in the smallest sprocket, but no further than that.
Again, if the chain hasn’t come off before but has recently become a habit, the attitude has somehow changed. Before doing anything, make sure the rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts and the rim is centered in the chainstays, and make sure that the rear derailleur and suspension (the part to which the rear derailleur is attached) are not bent. In most cases, the rear derailleur pulleys should be aligned right under each other.
Read more: How to Adjust and Adjust Indexed Rear Derailleurs
What to do if your chain still comes off?
If you’re doing all of this and your chain is still breaking off, there are a few more things to look out for:
Your front derailleur may have moved out of place, please check if it is set correctly by reviewing our article on how to index forward gears.
Is your transmission worn out and in need of replacement? As component life approaches the end, switching performance may become less smooth and more erratic.
The chain may be worn, has a stiff or bent link, or is clogged with dirt. Visual inspection when turning the handles should reveal if there is a problem.
The chainring or chainring is bent. Again, visual inspection will tell you what you need to know.
It may happen that you are steering the chain at a too steep angle. in the largest front sprocket and the largest sprocket (as shown above) or in the smaller front sprocket and the smallest sprocket. Some systems can handle this (although it’s not a particularly efficient way to ride), some. no.
Your chain may be too long or too short. Before putting on the chain, screw it onto the large chainring and the largest chainring, but do not run it through the rear derailleur. Connect the two ends together and add one full link (one inner and one outer half link) to get the correct chain length.
Your chain is incompatible with the rest of the transmission, in which case you need to replace it.
There are other reasons your chain might come off, but we think these are the main ones. If you think we missed an important reason, please share it below.
During cycling, chains tend to attract and collect a lot of dirt. When this dirt builds up excessively, it often hinders the performance of your bike. This can often be followed by the risk of accident or malfunction. This is why you should know how to clean your bike chain.
While you can fulfill this role with industrial products, you are strongly encouraged to only use homemade products because they are not only safer but also more environmentally friendly.
HOW TO CLEAN THE COMMON GOODS BIKE CHAIN
Required tools and materials
- Soft rags e. Gram. old t-shirts
- Wire hanger
- 2 bottles
- Chain lubricant
- Shelite (white spirit-based metal cleaner)
- Digital camera
Step-by-step procedures for cleaning the bike chain
Step I. Collect supplies and equipment
To do this, prepare your workplace accordingly. You should keep your work area fenced off and away, especially from young children. You don’t want unsuspecting passers-by to collide and interfere with your work, do you? Your local city’s charter may require you to obtain approval before starting a task. Find out and respond accordingly.
Step II: Put on the necessary protective devices
Now that you have prepared your work area, you should put on the necessary protective gear. Bicycle chains are usually very messy. This is because fat can actually stain clothes and leave irreversible and ugly marks on the skin.
Wear a jumpsuit to protect your clothing from direct contact with fat. Some gloves will protect your bare hands and rubber boots will protect your feet and shoes. You may need to wear gas masks if you are going to work with kerosene or turpentine. This will save you the risk of lung infections.
Step III: Take a picture of the bike chain
Now that you are ready to go, you should take a picture of the entire bike chain. The purpose of the image. show you how the chain looks or should look after a complete installation. This will come in handy during the reinstallation process.
Take all the different parts and parts of the chain, such as attachment points, sprockets, sprockets, pedals and bearings. You can also scale and enlarge those places that are too tiny to be seen for better orientation later. You will need to chain over a white background for better shots.
Step IV: Perform some visual checks on the circuit.
After taking snapshots and photographs of the circuit, you should proceed to visually check the results of the circuit itself. This visual inspection is intended to determine if the chain may also require some repair or upgrade by using a convenient chain test program.
If you find that the chain may need to be repaired, do it before starting to clean it. This may require the intervention of an experienced mechanic as it is unlikely that you will have enough experience to do this yourself. If it doesn’t need repair, clean it.
Step V: disconnect the chain from the bike
In this step, you must disconnect the chain from the bike. Although not required, you are strongly encouraged to record video of the disconnection exercise. The video will help you return the various components of the bike chain to their original condition and position.
To disconnect the circuit:
- Slide the pin holding the closed link out of the slot. This will open the main link.
- Now run the chain through the transmission. This will pull the chain.
- Collect all bolts, nuts and other small parts and place them on the old newspaper
Step VI: Saturate the chain with degreaser
Now that you’ve finished removing the chain, you need to soak it in a degreaser by following the steps below:
- Place it in a container containing a degreaser.
- Submerge it completely and then close the lid tightly to keep air from escaping.
- Shake the bottle for a while.
- Let the chains soak into the bottle for at least 20 minutes.
The purpose of the above procedures is to remove any lubricant from the chain. You may need to repeat the entire exercise a second or even third time if you do not get satisfactory results.
Step VII: Removing the degreaser
Now that the degreaser is loose, you can dispose of it from the chain. Flush the chain with clean degreasing agents. Alternatively, you can spray the degreaser onto the chain using a spray bottle. After spraying, let the product settle on the chain for a while, and then wash off with kerosene or turpentine.
You may need to repeat the above procedure a second or third time again for best results. Once you are satisfied with the result, wipe the chain with a clean cloth and let it dry completely, leaving it open to outside weather.
Step VIII: Rebuild the bike chain
It’s time to rebuild the bike chain. For this:
- Reattach the main link
- Adjust the ends of the bikes so they line up at the midpoint between your wheels
- Complete reconnection by sliding the main link pin back into the original slot
- Determine if it is properly secured by feeling with your fingers (it will deform if the slot is not even)
- Make any necessary changes or adjustments as needed.
PS: The above recommendations are general. Thus, they may never work with all types of bicycles. For best results, you must strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Use previously captured videos for convenient work. Remember, the result should look exactly like the photo you took earlier.
Step IX: Lubricate the chain
After completing the reattachment exercise, you will now need to lubricate the bike chain. For best results, insist on using a good quality lubricant. Follow these steps:
- Hold the grease bottle by the top of the middle chain pin
- Squeeze a light, steady stream of lubricant onto the chain
- Pedal to spin the chain
- After completing the chain, a complete revolution, done!
- You may need to increase the amount of lubricant for a smoother ride if the revs are sticky.
You are ready to hit the road a second time. Before you leave, restore your workplace and save all the tools you used. This is to protect your neighbors and your family members from any accidents or hazards that may often arise in the process.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). Q1. Can I use dishwashing detergent to clean my bike chain?
YES you can! However, the effect you are likely to get will not be as strong as what you would get from a powerful specialty solvent, due to the fact that regular dish soap is weaker and therefore not very good at breaking down strong lubricants.
By far the best dish soap. liquid. They are generally more potent than their bar soap counterparts. Be careful, as this powerful soap is very harmful to your hands and some fabrics. Wear gloves with chains for your safety.
2 sq. What can I use to clean my bike chain?
To ensure the best results, you must use a variety of tools, equipment, materials and supplies. These include:
- Stiff brush / old toothbrush. to remove sticky debris
- Dry rags. to remove excess grease
- Pallet or plastic tub. for impregnating the chain to thin the fat
- Dish soap acts as a detergent to clean sparkles chains
- Degreaser. weakens lubricant
- Defense mechanisms. protects your body and clothing from direct contact with grease
- Mask. protects you from inhaling the strong smell of kerosene and turpentine
Q3.Can I clean my bike chain without removing it?
Yes you can! Follow these steps to acquire this role:
- Pour some hot water into a saucepan containing dish soap.
- Dampen a cloth with hot soapy water.
- Wipe the bike chain with a dampened cloth.
- Advance the chain by turning the bicycle pedals with your hands. Then rub the entire length of the bike chain.
- Dampen another piece of cloth with degreaser.
- Wipe the chain with a cloth while pressing down on the bicycle pedals to keep the chain moving. Be careful to rub the entire length of the chain.
- Rinse the entire length of the bike chain with a cloth dampened in water.
- Dry the bike chain with a clean cloth.
4th quarter. Why is a bike chain degreaser homemade?
Several reasons explain why bike chain remover needs to be homemade. It:
Homemade degreasers are usually cheaper than their counterparts because they use cheaper materials to make them. This way you can save a lot on costs if you decide to use them to clean your bike chain.
Adjust the results
By making, rather than buying, a degreaser, you can change the quality of these cleaners as you see fit. With this in mind, you can also customize the results to meet your expectations. These feats are impossible with the purchased.
Convenience and remoteness
Some circumstances may make it impossible to use purchased degreasers. This is when you are in a remote location or just want some convenience. Over-the-counter products may not produce these results.
Q5. Alternatives to bike chain lubricants?
You don’t need to use regular bike chain lubricants, especially if you can’t afford them. You can try the following alternatives:
Teflon based lubricants
They are usually good during the summer months, they are very agile and are more likely to give the results they need faster.
If you really don’t have enough money, then Vaseline. the best product. However, its most notable drawback is that it is not strong and not strong enough to withstand heavy impacts.
Certain edible oils such as sunflower and olive oils can also serve as substitutes. They generally provide short-term results and are therefore suitable mainly for those on a budget.
Coconut oil. the best alternative for very cold winter months. This is because it is very thin and evaporates faster than regular grease.
Q6. Which oil is suitable for a bicycle chain?
For an oil to be considered suitable for a bicycle chain, it must have some characteristics. It:
Light or highly liquid
The oil must be very liquid so that it can be applied easily, especially during the very cold winter months.
You will need an odorless lubricating oil just in case. This will save you the risk of asthma and other respiratory tract infections.
In order to protect the environment, the correct oil must be completely natural and biodegradable. In addition, it must not contain phosphates or ammonia.
Q7. What is bicycle chain lubricant?
Bicycle chain lubricant. it is a substance that is mostly organic and is mainly used to reduce friction between any two moving metal parts. As the level of friction decreases, the heat generated by surfaces decreases.
Some other roles he can play. this is the transfer of hydraulic force or pressure, cooling of surfaces that are in mutual contact, heating of some surfaces or transportation of foreign particles. While most of them are manufactured, some are naturally occurring. These include vegetable, vegetable and animal oils. For best results, you should purchase a lubricant that is designed and engineered entirely for your specific bike chain.
We are constantly researching and updating our website and knowledge base. That is why we ask you to re-consider visiting this page in the future. This will keep you on top of the problem. Best of all for your subsequent bike chain cleaning.!
How to shift gears on a bike
Gear Shifting 101: How and When to Use Gears
Along with the brakes, gear shifting is one of the basic mechanical functions of your bike. Learning how to shift gears may sound basic, but practice gear shifting and shifting effectively. this is something that even experienced riders can work on. Correct gearing will not only improve your speed, but also make the ride more comfortable and increase your endurance on long journeys.
What does all of this mean ?!
Terminology. one of the hardest things about learning how to switch Low / High, Large / Small, Light / Hard, Fast / Slow, Front / Rear, One by One, Twice, Three for. if your head is already spinning you can brush up on the following dictionary words:
Low gear = Easy = Good for climbing: “Low” gear on your bike. it is the smallest chain ring in the front and the largest gear on your cassette (reverse gears). This position will be the easiest to pedal, and you will be able to pedal uphill with minimal resistance. Getting into this position is called “downshifting”.
High Gear = Hard = Good for Descending: High gear on your bike. this is the largest chain ring at the front and the smallest gear on your cassette (reverse gears). This position will be the hardest to pedal and you will be able to accelerate when going downhill. To get into this position, it is called “upshifting”.
_- Speed Bike: When you were a kid, you probably bragged to your friends about how many “speeds” your bike has. Whether it’s 7, 18, 21-speed, etc., that’s what you had in mind. this is the number of gears on your bike. You can determine this number by multiplying the number of gears in your cassette (rear gears) by the number of chain links (front gears) on your bike. For example, if your bike has two chain rings and 11 teeth in the cassette, then you have a 21-speed bike. However, in today’s bicycle industry, expensive adult bikes are rarely referred to this way because, in fact, bigger doesn’t always mean better. on this below!
One, Two, Three-Po: The number of chain links (front gears) on your bike determines whether your drivetrain (gear system) will be referred to as “alternating”, “two-by-two” or “Three-Decker.” The current trend in the bicycle industry. strive to produce the same gear range with fewer chain links. The result is a larger cassette (rear gears) that has more teeth and often more teeth on the largest gear train in the cassette. What for? Because, in general, fewer chainrings make the bike more efficient, lighter, and easier to operate and adjust. For this reason, you will often see single drivetrains on high-end mountain bikes and dual drivetrains on high-end road bikes.
How to shift gears: the basics
So now that you have a basic understanding of what these gears are called, how do you shift? Depending on the type of bike, your shifters may differ slightly; on road bikes (or any bike with a folding handlebar), your derailleurs. these are the same levers you use to engage the brakes. To operate the switches, push the lever to the side until you hear a click. For most flat handlebar mountain and hybrid bikes, you shift gears with paddles that you control with your thumb. Some bicycles are equipped with “grip switches” or a disc that is located inside where you place your hands. In these systems, you change gears by turning the disc forward and backward.
Your shifters are connected to a cable enclosed in a protective sheath. When you click on the gears, the cable tightens and looses, applying more or less force to the derailleur, which moves your chain up and down the cassette or chain rings. Below we explain what each lever does:
Left hand: Controls the front gears / front derailleur. moving the chain up and down the chain rings. These levers cause large jumps, gears when changing terrain.
Right hand: Controls the reverse gears / rear derailleur. moving the chain up and down the cassette. These levers are designed for small adjustments, transmission and use in minor terrain changes.
Large lever: The larger of the two gear levers moves the chain onto the large rings. So big = big. Switching to large rings with your RIGHT hand will make pedaling EASIER. Shifting into higher gears with the LEFT hand will make it HEAVY.
Small lever: The smaller of the two gear levers moves the chain to smaller rings. So small = small. Shifting down to smaller rings with the RIGHT hand will make the pedal press HARD. LEFT-handed downshifts will make pedaling EASIER.
No big / small leverage? You may have a SRAM road drivetrain that uses a “double-push” system. This means that there is a smaller lever hidden behind the larger brake lever and you can only move it in one direction. A long press (with two clicks) will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear in the rear (right hand) and a larger and stiffer gear. front (left hand). A short press (with one click) will move the chain to a stiffer smaller gear at the back (right hand) and a lighter smaller gear at the front (left hand).
You may also have a handle shift. This means you have a dial that you turn back and forth to change gears. By turning the dial forward, the chain shifts to a smaller and more rigid gear in the back (right hand) and a smaller and lighter gear in the front (left hand). Turning the disc back will move the chain to a larger and lighter gear in the back (right hand) and a larger and harder gear in front (left hand).
Cross chain. is a term for being in one of the following gear combinations:
LARGE / LARGE: Largest cassette tooth (lightest gear) and largest star ring (hardest gear))
SMALL / SMALL: Smallest tooth in the cassette (hardest gear) and smallest chain link (lightest gear)
In these positions, the chain stretches at an angle, which over time can damage the transmission and can cause the chain to slip or cause the front derailleur to make noise and malfunction.
Using the trim function
Some road bikes have a “trim” front derailleur. The pad allows minor changes to the front derailleur to eliminate chain friction, but not cause a complete shift to a different chain ring. This feature will come in handy when approaching the “cross chain” positions mentioned above.
So, if you are in the largest chain ring and start shifting to the large barbs on the cassette with your right hand, you may start to hear a grinding noise that indicates your chain is rubbing against the front derailleur. You can flick the small lever with your left hand once. to move the front derailleur slightly to match this chain position. Likewise, if you are in the smallest chain ring and start to shift to the smaller prongs on the cassette and start to notice a grinding noise, you can move the switch slightly by pressing the larger lever once with your left hand.
Effective and efficient gear shifting techniques
Okay, here’s the most important thing to remember when riding any bike: THERE IS NO PERFECT GEAR! SHIFT!
Very often we see people putting too much energy into their pedals when they climb a steep hill in a large chain ring, or swing their legs when they are spinning in a gear that is too easy for the descent they are riding. driving time. keep your cadence as constant as possible (the speed at which your pedals make a full revolution)! This requires one of two things: shifting gears or increasing power output. The problem with power output is that unless you’re Wonder Woman, you have a limited supply of power. We recommend changing gears frequently to improve efficiency while riding.
Liv’s Tip: Start shifting to lighter gears with your right hand early to maintain a steady rhythm. Remember, your right hand is for small terrain changes. If you find that your pedaling speed is slowing down dramatically, you may have to use the front derailleur (left hand) to make it easier to shift gears for the big climb ahead. But if you’re already uphill and putting out a ton of power to the pedals, you might notice that your front derailleur doesn’t want to work! You will move, hear a grinding noise, but nothing happens and you will most likely stop in the middle of a hill.
Instead of chafing these gears, you will need to apply a little more power to the pedal travel right before shifting, and then ease the pedal travel when shifting. Less chain pressure makes it easier for your derailleur to remove the chain from the larger ring to the smaller ring.!