How fast to ride a bike

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Recently I saw Alexey Baevsky, took the bottle holder from him to his Aggressor. Lesha reprimanded me and was CRASHED saying that I was changing gears incorrectly and I had a chain skew and soon it would be possible to throw it out. I got into no and started looking for material. Found several articles. I bring to your attention the most useful theses of them.

Cadence

Regarding the speed (cadence). Each person is comfortable with their own cadence, at which the pedals will rotate with maximum efficiency. If the speed of rotation is lower than the rhythm you are comfortable with, then the strength will be wasted. There is also a risk of injury if the cadence is incorrect. This is due to increased stress on the joints and muscles. So pay attention to this point when driving.

You don’t need to pedal too quickly, otherwise you will quickly get tired. Finding the ideal frequency for yourself is not difficult; rely on sensations. I will only add that in addition to road conditions, the choice of gear and cadence is influenced by the strength and direction of the wind, as well as the physical form of the cyclist at the moment.

Under any conditions, the goal is the same. to pedal at a constant speed and constant effort on them, regardless of the selected gear. The same rhythm significantly postpones the onset of fatigue and increases endurance. Consequently, a significantly greater distance can be overcome.

It is impossible in advance to accurately match a particular gear to specific road conditions. Of course there are many formulas, graphs and tables, but most of them are calculated for road bikes, fair weather and smooth asphalt. Should the conditions change, and all the calculations are down the drain. The choice of gear depends on the road or lack of it, the slope of the track, temperature, soil conditions, tire pressure, wind, the physical condition of the cyclist, the level of adrenaline and blood sugar. There are other criteria that cyclists can be guided by. One of them is cadence. It is known that the optimal cadence when driving on a horizontal surface. for example, in road bikes. is on average 95. 115 rpm, while for cross-country riders this value will already be 70. 90 rpm. But for amateurs and cyclists, this is just a guideline, not a rule. There is no need to try to start immediately from high gears, first in low gears we warm up the muscles, unwinding to optimal gears. When choosing a gear, as in any business, the cyclist needs to stick to the middle ground, and not go to extremes. A slow pace of driving in large gears is very detrimental to the condition of the knee joints. Pedaling too often will reduce riding efficiency and fatigue more quickly. In difficult road conditions (driving on mud, sand, grass or snow), the gears are lowered due to the need for a torque reserve. The technical capabilities of the switches do not always allow the chain to be dramatically shifted from small to large stars. For mountain hikes with backpacks, a set of chainrings, for example 48, 38 and 28 teeth, is usually sufficient.

When driving upwind or uphill, you need to switch to lower gears close to 1: 1. This set of gears increases cadence but decreases speed. When driving on flat terrain, the gear ratio can be 4: 1 to maintain speed. In a motorcycle race, a speed of over 100 km / h can be achieved. In these record-breaking rides, cyclists use a gear ratio of 8: 1 or more. However, usually the muscle strength of the legs is not enough to spin such gears from a place. Even athletes do not use gears greater than 5: 1, but rather increase their cadence.

In 1985 in the United States, John Howard set a speed record of 245.077 km / h. For the first time he covered 241 kilometers on a bicycle in one hour. Ten years later, Rompelberg Fred from the Netherlands broke his world bicycle speed record with a result of 269 km / h.

Many novice cyclists avoid frequent gear changes and even when riding upwind, leave the chain on the large drive and small driven gears. Their ride is more like the maneuvers of a sailboat against the wind. As a result, after such a ride, knee pain can naturally occur. Meanwhile, a competent cyclist when riding upwind, having reduced the gear ratio to 2-3: 1, will be able to maintain a higher speed with less effort. In small gears, pedal at a frequency of 80-90 rpm.

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Any cyclist should know how to properly switch speeds on a bicycle. When they buy a bicycle for children, they are always interested in how many speeds it has. And the higher the number of speeds, the better. But experienced cyclists know that the speed of a bicycle depends on the rider, or rather, on the work of his muscles. And the art of competently changing gears is a quality of cunning professionals that allows you to squeeze the maximum possible resources out of the car in rough terrain.

It used to be simple: the road bike had one speed. Therefore, on the plains, everything depended on the skills of the cyclist himself, and to ride in the mountainous terrain, one had to adapt to the terrain conditions: while riding downhill, the cyclist accelerates the car as much as possible in order to enter the next mountain by inertia. If the ascent is protracted, then the cyclist rides uphill until he can pedal. Then he dismounts his bike and proudly walks alongside to the top to continue his journey down again.

Modern bicycles have two sets of gears. front (sprocket) and rear (driven sprocket). It is extremely important to learn how to choose the right gear depending on the nature of the ride. First, you need to learn a few simple rules for shifting gears:

  • Only change gears while the bike is in motion (this does not apply to planetary hubs).
  • Try to change gears when the load from the chain is removed or insignificant, otherwise you may not be able to switch, and even break the gearshift mechanisms or break the chain (this largely depends on the quality level of the bicycle components). Particularly hard on the front derailleur.
  • We do not recommend upshifting when overcoming hills, select gears in front of the mountain (riders use uphill shifting if necessary, but this technique requires the skill and feeling of the bike).
  • Without proper skill, do not shift multiple gears at once. Do this in stages: after waiting for the clear work of one gear, go to the next (this moment also depends on the class of bike equipment and the skill of the cyclist).
  • Avoid large chain distortions.

Let’s take a closer look at the switching process itself:

  • A typical modern bike has 2-3 stars in the front and 8-10 stars in the back.
  • The numbering of the front stars is from 1 to 3. in the direction of increasing stars, the numbering of the rear stars is from 1 to 8 (9,10), in the direction of decreasing stars.

For simplicity, let’s take the popular budget 38 drive as an example:

  • The large chainring is used when driving on a good, level road (asphalt or compacted soil) in the absence of strong headwinds. Trailing sprockets 8 to 4 are usually used with this sprocket. Although in sports skating and racing, you can often see any combination of.
  • The middle chainring is used when driving on dirt roads, bad asphalt, not very loose sand in combination with rear sprockets 6 to 2 (which does not exclude the use of the entire set of rear sprockets). On these programs it is convenient to ride in dense city traffic, maneuvering between various moving and stationary obstacles. When there is a strong headwind on the highway, a middle chainring is also often installed.
  • The small chainring is used with chainrings 5 ​​to 1. These gears are used when driving on very steep climbs, wetlands, sticky mud, sand, dense grass.
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Drawing of parallel universes. Left (in red) is not correct. the universes of bike chains are parallel, on the left (in green) is correct!

Tips for caring for your gearshift system

Many bikers agree that the bike is alive. But don’t let him show character. This is especially true of the gearshift system: if the speeds are switched without your participation or do not change at all when you want it, this does not always mean that the components are worn out or broken, most likely the problem is in dirt or grass that has gotten over chain or sprockets. Be sure to clean and lubricate the chain, sprockets and derailleur. this kind of care contributes to smoother and more precise shifting, and therefore a comfortable ride.

It is very important to feel the bike well, then you will hear any extraneous sound. For example, an extraneous metallic sound may occur due to the chain being stretched. This quickly leads to component wear. Change the chain at least!. once a season.

Ideally, one should strive to move to the intuitive level of shifting that athletes and experienced cyclists are perfect for. It shouldn’t matter to you how many gears and what type of drive you have on your bike. You will not think about switching at all: everything will happen automatically, depending on the current road or racing situation.

The clarity of the gears depends on the class of equipment, the degree of wear of parts, the correct setting of the mechanisms, the condition of the cables and their shirts, as well as the degree of contamination of the mechanisms and the chain.

And for dessert: scientists decided to create a bicycle with gear shifting using only thoughts:

Bike Messenger Riding Fast and Fluid Through NYC Traffic

Important addition from user Arkady Belousov:

Each sprocket has teeth and their pitch (distance between the teeth) is always the same and coincides with the length of the chain links, so the number of teeth on the sprocket is dictated by its size (diameter). The most important transmission parameter. the gear ratio (the ratio of the number of wheel revolutions per pedal revolution). depends on the number of teeth on the driving and driven sprockets. Usually it is the number of teeth and is indicated (for example, gear 42-14). To transfer 42-14, one pedal revolution (one revolution of the driving sprocket) will require 42/14 = 3 wheel revolutions (three revolutions of the driven sprocket). The range of gear ratios for mountain bike transmissions will most often be from 0.68 to 3.8 (that is, more than 5 times). In practice, they simply talk about the number of speeds, since common types of bicycles have approximately the same set of stars.

For a comprehensive assessment of the traction of a bicycle, the stowage parameter or the step of the bicycle is used. this is the distance that the bicycle travels in one revolution of the pedals in a given gear. Less stacking means better traction in a given gear, but less speed.

For driving in tough conditions (where more effort is required) gears with a lower gear ratio are better suited because they have less styling. It is easy to see that the smallest gear ratio is obtained by choosing the first driving (smallest) and first driven (largest) sprockets. The same applies to bicycles with a single front sprocket. for riding in difficult conditions it is better to choose the first (largest) driven sprockets, and for light conditions the last (smaller) ones are more suitable.

Gear shifting during ascent

If you understand that you are changing gears as needed, then you have already missed the optimal moment to change. This means that you will not keep the required rhythm and inertia of movement. Be more careful next time. Never shift gears with heavy pedaling, which will lead to rapid component wear.

The most common mistake is rarely using the front derailleur. Shift the rear to a comfortable sprocket and operate the front derailleur. You will feel how much faster you find the right gear, because the effect of one shift on the front sprocket can be compared to the effect of shifting to two sprockets of the rear cassette, and much less time is spent!

It becomes possible to quickly gain the desired speed with a single switch. Then, when you get into the rhythm of the movement, you have the chance to use the rear derailleur to fine-tune the gear.

6 Hacks To Go Faster On Your Bike For Free

Remember: first select the correct forward gear, and only then use the rear derailleur to adjust the gear!

How to properly shift gears on a bike? : 41 Комментарии и мнения владельцев

damn, but I switched on the spot and now it seizes what to do

Try to figure out what exactly is jamming and sort out the transfer system. You may just need to adjust the switches. How to do it is written here-

Throw it off the roof of the house, it will be fixed. The chain will break off the contacts will press down at first they will not spin for 2-3 hours and then it will work like new.

The question is: the bike has three sprockets in the front and 6 in the back. The rear shifts properly. one flip of a coin. one gear. The front one is different. there are 6 divisions on the handle (on the steering wheel), therefore, in order to switch from one gear to another in the front sprocket, you have to move the handle (on the steering wheel) immediately by 3 divisions, because when translating to only one chain, it is not translated, but simply starts rubbing against the shifted switch This is normal or you can somehow adjust?

Not okay. Switches must match the number of speeds

How to increase the switch travel for this? So that with one click, he would transfer the chain a sufficient distance (to the next sprocket)?

This is correct, even if you calculate mathematically Only 6 divisions, 3 stars, 6 divide by 3, it turns out 2, that is, for each star, there should be two switchings

alexander, i have the same problem. Bicycle Stels Focus 18sors.

Hello, If you switch from 3rd gear to 2nd, then the chain remains in 3rd, and if you switch to 1st, then it goes to 2nd.?

I don’t remember exactly how to tighten or loosen the transfer cable (front derailleur), there was a similar problem I solved with the power of adjusting the cable tension

For a snack: The left (in red) is not correct. the universes of the bike chains are parallel, the left (in green) is correct!

popular budget drive 38 Big chainring on a good, flat road Small chainring steep climbs Not a word has been said about the rear sprockets (by the way, I have only one star in front).

increase gear when overcoming hills, select gears in front of the mountain In difficult road conditions gears are down Not only is it not explained in any way what is meant by raising and lowering gears, so here in the text the same thing is called opposite terms.

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uphill to lower gears close to 1: 1 Slow driving pace with large gears Again the same contradiction: according to the text 1: 1 is both low gears and high gears.

Due to all this confusion (the use of rear sprockets alone and in combination with chain sprockets is not explained; it is not explained what and why the up and down and which gear combinations should be used in different conditions) at first reading, I did not understand much. Fortunately, on velowiki.org I found a description of what the gear ratio in a bicycle is (one paragraph was enough for this), and from there it was already possible to make relatively simple independent conclusions about how to switch speeds.

So this page pulls no more than 2-3 on a 5-point system: there are a couple of useful points, but this is not enough for an educational program for a novice user of a multi-star system, and even more advanced users have nothing to read here.

Thanks for your authoritative opinion! If you have already spent so much time writing this little comment, can I ask you for a service? Rewrite what you think is necessary and send me, in the feedback form, the finished text in html format. I promise to add your version if everything is ok!

I agree with the author of the commentary, I didn’t understand a damn thing from the article))). What was meant when riding uphill or against the wind 1: 1. How to get 1: 1, because any chainring is always larger than any rear sprocket. Or I misunderstood something.

any chainring is always larger than any rear sprocket. Not always, on MTB there may be rear 36, front 22, the gear ratio will be even lower than one, namely 0.61 in this case.

I changed the camera. and after that, the speed began to switch incorrectly (ringing of the chain when pedaling and their failure). what did I do wrong?

perhaps you just need to correctly find the position of the rear wheel on the frame, either move it back to the stop or slightly forward, or it is better to move it all the way back and adjust the rear derailleur with the adjusting screws

Don’t mislead people. The lower the gear ratio, the BIGGER the styling! For persuasiveness, open the section Drive axle, final drive in any car manual.

When it comes to bicycles, there is a direct relationship. the larger the gear ratio, the greater the styling. Those. exactly the opposite compared to a car.

fast, ride, bike

In order not to make such blunders, take a closer look at the topic first.

About cadence is not entirely true, it’s all about the knee joint, it is at a rotation speed of 80-110 rpm that the right amount of lubricating fluid is formed in the joint. Accordingly, if you twist slower or faster, it badly affects the knee.

I have now made myself a new automatic system. No more derailleur sprockets and chain tensioner. My front sprocket is telescopic and it grows from 38 to 70 teeth (according to the diameter of the star). under the pressure of the pumped brake fluid. And when I stop it decreases. And there is no rear switch. the chain is stretched and there are no stars on the rear wheel. I’m not worried uphill at all now. I also put such a system on the front. And then earlier, when you twist your hands, it was inconvenient to switch the speed. p.s Pedal cranks are also telescopic In the front-top position, the length of the pedals is maximum (double), and in the rear-bottom position, the minimum (standard). There, the rear end of the connecting rod runs in a displaced circle that pushes it in and out. So your topic does not quite suit me, but still curious.

How reliable is this system? How many kilometers have already traveled?

I recently got my hands on a bicycle (MTB, 21 speeds), after 1 week of riding, problems with the front and rear derailleur began to arise. after reading the article, I understood everything (of course, I am to blame, I did everything in reverse and without any logic). The problem is the rear derailleur is stuck at 4 speeds (2 to 5) and the front derailleur is missing the middle sprocket. now I think. is it possible to fix it?

Hello. I ran into this problem: the chain on the front sprockets simply does not switch. when trying to shift manually, the chain is very skewed How to be ?

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I put on a new chain, 1-2 teeth began to slip on small stars. Tell me the reason please

Perhaps the length of the chain plays a role. But honestly they say, I’m not a repairman to help with such questions

along with the chain, the cassette (rear stars) also changes, sometimes the system (chainrings), since they wear out along with the chain. I recommend changing the cassette, it is inexpensive

Overcame 241 kilometers in one hour. bullshit. It turns out that his average speed is 241 km / h? How much is the peak??

Hello. I bought a bike, I have 3 stars on the leader and 7 on the slave. Tell me which one is better to learn to ride? Well, to go slower. 1 front and 1 back?

If there is 1 on the front, then you can put 1-2-3 on the back, if 2, then 3-4-5, if there are three, then on the back there may be 6-7. Learning is worth riding everybody, it all depends on the speed and traction. On a flat road, you can walk to 3-6. It is better to ride uphill in lowered ones. It’s not a car, where it’s better to stick in the fifth after a speed of 100 and a couple of years of driving experience.

fast, ride, bike

I can’t try it yet, today I only started learning to ride, I still don’t hold on to the saddle so that I can switch in motion

My brother came, held the bike while I was switching, and it is as described above. for different speeds, the levers perform an asymmetric function. I wonder why this is so.

And why is it possible that the saddle leans back under the weight? Just because it is not tightly clamped? It seems to be great for me, the frame is 19, the wheel is 26, my height is 178. Today I traveled a bit, the saddle is thrown back again, well, now I bought the key for 13, I already clamped it tightly to mine, then I’ll check if it holds it while driving.

Maybe this is a sign that the saddle needs to be lifted? When the saddle is even, then it is convenient for me to ride in general.

why is it wrong when in the 4th picture in red and how to fix it

Try to change gears when the load is removed from the chain. it’s not clear here. When the load is removed from the chain. when is this? I’ve read that you need to switch when you just pedal, without any climbing uphill and other obstacles

Hello, I have such a problem, when riding a bicycle when I switch the chainrings for example (when I switch from 1 to 2 it does not switch, when I switch to 3 it switches to 2 and to 3 at all) And on the rear wheel I have 7 stars how to do it correctly?

Speed ​​switches

One of the most important points is gear shifting. Not all beginner cyclists know how to do it right.

Typically, bicycles have left and right derailleurs, and each of them controls sprockets.

The BIGGER the gear number, the more revolutions the rear wheel makes. But it is more difficult to pedal. At this speed it will be very easy for you to drive from a hill or on a straight surface. But you will not be able to drive up the hill.

The LESS the gear number, the less revolutions the rear wheel makes, and at the same time the gears are much easier to turn and you do it more intensively. At this speed, you can easily overcome a steep climb.

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Knowing the number of speeds on your bike is half the battle. It is important to know how to switch them correctly.

Chain misalignment

If your iron horse is dear to you, do not skew the chain. This can happen during improper shifting of forward and reverse gears. Thus, you run the risk of either breaking the chain or bending the switches on the sprockets.

Combining the speeds is not at all difficult. you have left and right. 1st left corresponds to 1st to 3rd right speeds. 2nd left corresponds to 3rd to 6th right speeds. 3rd left corresponds to 6th to 8th right speeds. speeds.

If you adhere to this rule, you will not be afraid of the chain skew.

How to ride a bike?

In the first lesson of the second season, we will together figure out what a bicycle is, how to ride it correctly and how to care for it. It’s very simple, you say. But it may seem so to experienced cyclists. If you are a beginner, then our tips will help you master this wonderful miracle of technology and avoid some of the problems.

In the first lesson of the second season, we will together figure out what a bicycle is, how to ride it and how to care for it. It’s very simple, you say. But it may seem so to experienced cyclists. If you are a beginner, then our tips will help you master this wonderful miracle of technology and avoid some of the problems.

So let’s break down the basic points to be aware of when you first get on your bike. Go!

Seat adjustment

Before driving, you need to adjust the seat. This is done so that the legs get tired as little as possible. Correct fit is the key to a comfortable and painless ride.

How do you know if your bike saddle is adjusted correctly? It’s simple: the leg should be straight on the lower pedal. If the saddle is not installed correctly, prepare for pain in the knee joints.

Overcoming obstacles

When driving over curbs or other raised obstacles, it is very important to keep both pedals parallel to the ground. Otherwise, you risk damaging the pedal itself or the mount. Wheels may deform from impacts against obstacles. That is why, if you are not sure that you can overcome the ledge, it is better to get off the bike and overcome it on foot.

Another important point: if you drive off the curb, you should not do it obliquely. the wheel can slip off, and you can fall.

Therefore, it is best to drive straight perpendicular to the curb.

If you have not yet learned how to ride a bike up the stairs, it is better to take it in your hands and lower it down. Dragging your bike up the stairs can easily cause the chain to fly off.

Braking

As a rule, bicycles have front and rear brakes. Usually the right brake is responsible for the rear wheel and the left brake is for the front.

You need to brake with two brakes at the same time! If you only brake with the front wheel when going downhill at high speed, you can fly over the bike. If you only brake with the rear wheel, the bike can lead and you will end up directly under it.

Of course, this is not all there is to say about how to ride a bike. We tried to capture only the most basic and important points.

Music used in the video: Flume feat. Twin Shadow Jezzabell Doran. Sleepless

Briefly. about drives

The three chainrings and eight chainrings are the most common and most popular drive. When driving on a flat surface in calm weather, a large chainring is used. It is combined with large rear sprockets (8-4).

Strong wind, bad road surface, traffic jams, dirt. all this is served by the middle chainring in combination with reverse gears. This allows you to easily navigate uneven surfaces and deftly avoid obstacles.

Everyone, who has ever ridden a bicycle, knows what an effort it takes to climb a mountain, move on mud, sand or tall grass. In this case, the small front chainring will greatly facilitate the task. Its use in conjunction with small rear (1-5) is the best solution for overcoming such terrain.

How to properly shift gears on a bike?

Most modern bicycles are equipped with a multi-speed gearbox, which makes them versatile and very comfortable. This allows you to increase, if necessary, the speed of movement or, if desired, increase the load on a particular muscle group. Well, when cycling in mountainous terrain or poor road surface, the gearbox is generally irreplaceable. It can make lifting and moving much easier.

However, despite the convenience, there are pitfalls here. And inexperienced, novice cyclists have encountered them more than once. If for professionals or experienced cyclists, gear shifting is not difficult (it is done automatically), then beginners have problems with this. And since the transmission of many modern bicycles is a rather complex mechanism, it is quite easy to damage it.

Of course, if you have many years of experience, then it will save you from annoying mistakes and breakdowns. But it is not worth giving up a good bike due to lack of necessary knowledge. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the useful information that we generously share with you. And then. follow these simple rules.

How to properly switch gears on a bike

Below are the basic rules to follow when changing gears on your bike.

Rules for switching speeds on a bicycle:

  • Avoid shifting gears while stopping. This can cause the chain to fly off. Only in a dynamic position, when you are driving, the sprocket will move freely down or up.
  • Shift gears hard, but smoothly. Do not pedal hard if you feel noticeable resistance. This will only damage the chain or knock out the tuning. Correct shifting is light and smooth. You should feel a pliable pedal movement and chain movement.
  • As well as in a static position, avoid shifting the pedals on uphills. Let experienced, professional cyclists do it. Shift gears before going up.
  • Switching speeds should be phased, sequential. Do not try to switch multiple speeds at the same time. Just one by one.
  • Avoid gross misalignment of the chain. The front and rear wheel speeds should be approximately the same. Well, if there is a difference, then let it be insignificant.

Important points when changing gears

You were unable to change the speed if extraneous sounds are heard after switching. Please try again following all the above rules.

Remember that shifting gears correctly will make your ride more comfortable and less physically demanding, and will also extend the life of your bike.

Universal rules

But there are also some more universal rules. For example, the important rule of optimal cadence. Its essence lies in the fact that a cyclist must perform 70-100 pedaling rotations per minute.

Do not be afraid to experiment with the transmission, but try not to get hung up on pedaling, not to be distracted from the road.

Firstly, you run the risk of getting into an accident, and secondly, you do not allow your brain to bring actions to automaticity. Trust me, with experience, you will automatically switch gears.

And of course, do not forget about caring for your iron friend. Oiled chains, whole cables, cleanliness of all mechanisms are a necessary condition for a comfortable, safe ride. Have a nice trip!