Doesn’t Shift Front Derailleur On Bicycle

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How to adjust the rear derailleur on a bike. How to properly adjust the rear and front derailleurs on a bicycle: photo and description of the process

Despite the fact that the bicycle was invented a long time ago and, it would seem, should have been out of date for a long time, but this two-wheeled vehicle is gaining more and more popularity every year. Cycling enthusiasts prefer this type of transport due to its convenience, ease of operation, environmental safety and practicality. Not only ordinary bicycles are very popular, but also mountain, track bikes, which use modern innovative technologies. In order for the owners to enjoy cycling, they need to take care of it and monitor the condition of all parts and assemblies. If, in the process of cycling, you hear extraneous sounds, creaking, knocking and twitching during gear changes, it’s time to pay attention to such a detail as the gear selector.

Rear derailleur

The gear shifter is an important part of a multi-speed bike. Thanks to this component, it becomes possible to move in extreme conditions, which include upwind movement, ascents, poor road quality. The transmission unit must deal with all these problems. The quality of the ride and the safety of the cyclist depend on the smooth operation of the speed switch. This skill is very useful, and every bike owner should learn how to independently adjust the gear shifter. Every cyclist can make adjustments to bicycle shifters. You need to study the theory in detail by reading the instructions, or using the advice of experienced bike owners.

Before setting the derailleur, the rear derailleur must be adjusted. Placing the bike in the correct position (wheels up) will greatly facilitate the entire adjustment process. So, all the necessary details will be in sight, and it will be much easier to get to them.

shift, front, derailleur, bicycle

Reasons for poor gear shifting:

  • physical defects of the switch parts;
  • contamination of parts. To prevent this from happening, the components of the transmission unit must be periodically cleaned of dirt, dust and old grease;
  • worn out cable with elements of damage. Such a part requires replacement;
  • damage to the cock.

If you observe damage, deformation and wear of the constituent parts, they must be replaced as they are practically irreparable.

If all parts are OK, adjust the switch. What does the speed switch consist of? The components of the speed switch are as follows:

  • Handle for gear shifting located on the steering wheel;
  • A shifter that attaches to the handlebars near the handles. Handles and a cable are attached to the shifter. It is with the participation of the cable that the impulse is transmitted from the shifter to the stars;
  • Cassette, which includes stars of different sizes;
  • front fixing mount;
  • rear derailleur, whose main function is to switch the chain to the required sprockets.

How the switches work

Using the handle and shifter, the cyclist activates the required speed. In a certain position of the handle, the cable is pulled. As a result of this tension, the frame is thrown onto larger sprockets; when the cable is loosened, it is not thrown onto small sprockets. As mentioned above, bike setup can be started from the rear derailleur. Procedure for adjusting the rear derailleur:

  • select the second star in the front block, and the smallest in the rear one and set the switch chain on them;
  • The bike’s rear derailleur system has two bolts that act as stops. One is abbreviated as H, and on the other. L. These two bolts are used to adjust the high and low gears on the stars. If during the adjustment process any extraneous sounds occur, you can get rid of them using the latch;
  • check the tension of the cable and, if the tension is not correct, use the regulator located on the shifter;
  • Test the switching quality. If the switching occurs smoothly, no extraneous sounds are heard, then you did everything right.

What to do if you can’t adjust the bike’s rear derailleur

There are several methods for solving this issue. But if the standard tuning instruction did not work, to tune the rear derailleur you need to:

  • dismantle the chain, remove the cable;
  • move the switch to the chain position to the smallest star;
  • use adjusting bolts (this way you can tighten the cable);
  • set the adjusting bolt H to the extreme position;
  • move the part called the parallelogram to the big star and adjust the position of the bolt L.

The regulator is fixed with screws. It must be set to the extreme position. After that, the chain must be displaced in this order: the front cassette is the largest star in diameter, the rear, on the contrary, is the smallest.

Bicycle front derailleur

The transition to setting this mechanism is possible only when the rear derailleur is set. This feature is important to take into account before starting work. The figure shows the switch (round, black).

Leave the chain on the middle sprocket of the front block and place it on the large sprocket in the rear block. If chain friction is observed, re-engage adjuster L. To adjust stop H, the chain moves to the largest sprocket at the front and smallest at the back. The adjuster will help you position the chain in the optimal position without friction and excessive chain tension. At the end of the work, be sure to check the quality of its implementation.

Correct installation of the front derailleur

You can start the front derailleur setting only after adjusting the rear derailleur. Installation is the initial step in adjusting the speed switch. It’s very important to do it right.

  • before installing the switch, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the constituent parts and, if necessary, clean them of dirt and lubricate.
  • Next, adjust the location of the front derailleur. On the frame, it should be located along the pipe under the saddle.
  • Set the steering angle parallel to the drive sprocket on the front cassette of the transmission unit.
  • Next, you need to adjust the gap between the underside of the derailleur frame and the top line of the teeth of the large gear. The gap should be minimal.
  • Adjust the degree of cable tension.
  • Place the chain close to the inside of the frame.

It is also worth paying attention to setting up the chain. The bicycle chain is a very important element, with the help of which the impulse is transmitted from one chainring to another and the adjustment process takes place. The technical condition of the circuit is of great importance for the operation of the entire system. If, for some reason, the bicycle chain is stretched or deformed, this cannot but adversely affect the operation of the entire transmission unit. To prevent this from happening, the chain must be periodically removed and cleaned, and then set the correct position. There are lock and lockless models of bicycle chains. They differ in the way they are connected. To remove the locking chain, it is enough to find the link with the lock and disconnect it with a screwdriver. The lockless bicycle chain is disconnected using a squeeze. This tool helps to push the link axle out and make the connector. If it skews for some reason, this can adversely affect the gearshift process.

One of the best manufacturers of bicycle parts, including derailleurs, is the Japanese company Shimano, which has a proven track record of producing products in which Japanese quality is combined with budget and price. Shimano derailleurs (fig. 3) are suitable for all types of bicycles. Shimano derailleurs are installed on both regular touring bicycles and mountain and track bikes with gearboxes up to 33 speeds.

Another recognized market leader is Sram. The products of this company are used on bicycles of the city bike category, as well as on sports bicycles. Sram products are of good quality and affordable price for cycling enthusiasts.

Every bicycle owner who prefers this type of transport to others is obliged to understand how to switch its speeds. It is believed that the more speeds a bike has, the better it is. But in fact, speed only allows you to improve the quality of maneuvering and squeeze the maximum out of the bike’s capabilities, so then everything depends on the dynamic efforts of the person riding the bike. Conventional bicycles have a simpler design compared to high-speed ones. There is less hassle with such a bike, but it also has fewer possibilities. In the transmission unit of such bicycles there are only two stars: one large and one small. Multi-speed bicycles, which have gained popularity in recent years, have two sets of sprockets in their transmission units: front and rear. Each cassette contains stars of different sizes. To switch gears correctly, you need to remember a few basic rules:

  • If your bike is not equipped with a planetary hub, you only need to switch gears on it while driving, otherwise there is a danger of damage to the bike.
  • During gear shifting, it is not necessary to apply significant dynamic forces, in order to eliminate the danger of a burst of flowers, it is advisable to change gears sequentially, without making sudden jerks.

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Adjustment

Bicycle owners can always count on the help of specialized firms, which will carry out a full technical inspection of the transport and carry out repairs, and tighten / adjust / adjust everything. But in most cases, cyclists have neither the time nor the money to visit repair shops. in this case, recommendations, step-by-step process instructions will maximally simplify the task of self-service of a two-wheeled vehicle.

Cyclists are often faced with the problem of adjusting the rear derailleur. Let’s make a reservation right away that it is very difficult to adjust old and worn-out switches. in some cases, the details of this mechanism are so worn out that even an inexperienced cyclist will pay attention to the existing backlash, which is almost impossible to get rid of. But on the other hand, if the rear derailleur on a bicycle has not yet passed into the category of “prehistoric”, then you can adjust it yourself. it is impossible to break the mechanism either theoretically or practically.

When is it necessary to adjust the rear derailleur

The process under consideration should not be carried out constantly, with systematic maintenance of a two-wheeled vehicle. as experienced mechanics say, “do not interfere with the bike ride.” Therefore, you need to clearly understand what may be the reason for adjusting the rear derailleur:

  • The cable and its jacket are either faulty or require lubrication.
  • The attachment to the rear spreader frame (called the “cock”) is curved.
  • Cassettes and / or sprocket chains on the rear wheel are worn.
  • The tensioner rollers are clearly stuck on the rear spreader.
  • The shifter for changing speeds on the steering wheel has become unusable.

What is the adjustment

Before embarking on the process of adjusting the rear derailleur of the bicycle, you need to know what is provided for such work. There are 5 adjusting screws on the bike:

  • Hollow screw with a drum for tensioning (this is one of the ways to adjust) the cable.
  • Diverter travel stop screw marked with “H”. only works for smallest sprocket.
  • Spreader Stroke Stop Screw Marked “L”. Only Works For Largest Sprocket.
  • Cage bolt with nut. designed for fastening the cable.
  • Special screw for tensioning the chain.

Note: some models of bicycles (usually this refers to inexpensive brands) are not equipped with a cable tension drum or chain tension screw. But in this case, manufacturers install an adjusting drum on the steering wheel at the shifters. This makes it possible to adjust / adjust the level of tension of the cable directly in the movement of the bicycle, only first you will need to throw the chain onto the smallest sprocket.

How to adjust the rear derailleur

It is convenient to carry out all work on setting the rear derailleur when the rear wheel of the bicycle is lifted up. To do this, you can use a footboard (if one is provided constructively), or install a two-wheeled vehicle on a regular ironing board, or use the help of a friend.

The process in question must be carried out in stages.

Training

First, place the chain on the middle sprocket at the front and the smallest sprocket at the back. Now we are carefully examining the rear spreader. it must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, stuck grass and sticks. The chain is washed and lubricated, the cassette is not only cleaned of dirt, but also blown out of dust. even these simple manipulations will lead to improved operation of the rear derailleur on the bike.

Release the cable

To do this, it is enough to screw in the tension screws on the rear spreader and on the handlebar near the shifter all the way, and then pull the cable out of the clamping screw.

Experts do not recommend completely removing the loosened bicycle cable, but inspect it for damage (if found, the cable will have to be completely replaced) and thoroughly lubricate it, having previously cleaned it of dirt, it is imperative.

Setting the travel limit to the smallest sprocket

To do this, you need to sit down behind the bike and turn the adjusting screw marked “H”, at the same time, the spreader is installed so that both the rollers and the smallest sprocket in the wheel are in line.

Note: there is one trick in the implementation of this process. if the bike has been used for a long enough time and the spreader is not new, then it can be qualitatively adjusted by setting the frame not in a straight line, but shifting it to the right of the wheel literally 1-2 mm.

You can check the correct setting of the travel limit on the smallest sprocket by turning the wheel: the chain will not jump to the side, and the whole mechanism will work almost silently.

Adjusting the cable tension

Such adjustment is performed literally in 2 steps:

  • We tighten the cable and fix it with a mounting bolt. over, you need to do this with your hand, pliers are inappropriate to use in this case.
  • We rotate the hollow screw with a drum and tighten the cable in such a way that with one click and depressing of the shifter, the transfer device easily and freely (without delay even for a second) switches from one sprocket to another and back.

It is worth noting that the process of adjusting the cable tension takes several minutes. it is enough to adjust the correct transition only between two adjacent sprockets, and everything else will work automatically.

Note: some models of bicycles have a groove for the cable in the clip. make sure when adjusting that it lies exactly in it, and is not pinched in the wrong position.

Setting the travel limit to the largest sprocket

Everything is done strictly according to the instructions:

  • So that nothing interferes with the movement of the spreader, loosen the adjusting screw marked “L”.
  • Slowly crank the pedals and at the same time throw the chain onto the largest sprocket in the back.
  • We turn the adjusting screw marked “L”, thereby achieving alignment of the spreader in a position where its rollers and the largest cassette sprocket are in line.

Note: in this case, if the spreader is already badly worn out, to facilitate the installation / adjustment process, you need to move its frame towards the wheel. In many cases, it is precisely this minimum frame displacement that is not enough to throw the chain into the desired position.

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Adjusting the chain tensioner

This process is simple and even an inexperienced cyclist, far from the principle of repairing his vehicle, will cope with it in a few minutes. What should be done:

  • The chain is translated to the smallest sprocket in the front and the largest in the back.
  • Pay attention to the rotation of the tensioner rollers. if at the time of the chain throwing it touches the star in the cassette, then you need to tighten the chain tension screw. By this action, a gap between the clutching elements of 5 mm is established.
  • The chain is rearranged to the largest sprocket in the front and the smallest at the rear, along the way, the chain tension level is checked in this position.

The ropes and their shirts

No matter how strange it may sound, but most often the adjustment of the rear derailleur is to clean and then lubricate the cables and their shirts. These bicycle parts can be of high quality, or worse quality. both of them will work for a long time if the bicycle owner at least once a month cleans them of dirt and lubricates them with liquid oil.

Note: if during the next service a torn cable or damaged casing (shirt) is found, then they must be completely replaced with new parts.

Rear derailleur “cock

This part of the mechanism is fragile. the “rooster” is quite easy to damage even when jumping over curbs or while driving on bad roads with a lot of stones. If the rear derailleur begins to work poorly, then the first thing experienced cyclists pay attention to is the “rooster”. It is easy to determine its malfunction. sit down next to a two-wheeled vehicle and take a close look at the “cock”. two rollers of the chain tensioner should be located in an absolutely vertical plane in relation to each other.

It is strictly forbidden to align the “cock” directly in the assembly and with your hands or any improvised tools / device. this can render the entire rear derailleur mechanism unusable. The smartest solution is to disassemble the bike, remove the “rooster” and align it on a hard surface.

Sprockets and chains

Often the cause of poor operation of the rear derailleur of a bicycle is a strong wear of the chain mechanism. And most often, driving in vehicles in the mode of unauthorized combination of speeds, or with a skewed chain leads to this position.

There are times when a completely new chain mechanism is no longer suitable for use. the rear sprocket cassette is screwed skewed onto the rear wheel hub. It will be fair to say that this happens when low quality, cheap parts are installed on a two-wheeled vehicle.

Chain tension rollers

There are miniature sprockets on the derailleur frame. they also need to be periodically cleaned from dirt and lubricated with liquid oil. If the rollers are operated for a long time without proper care, then they will definitely start to jam. the chain will rub over them, bounce and fly off the rear sprockets.

Carbon-coated rollers on the outside and ceramic bearings on the inside have recently entered the market. manufacturers claim they will last forever. Experts recommend not to waste your money on these fashionable “chips”. with proper and regular care, ordinary plastic rollers will last a long time.

Steering wheel switches

If the shifter breaks on the handlebars, the cyclist will feel it right away. the cable tension instantly weakens, so it’s easy to “diagnose” the problem. In this case, the shifter must be replaced, but experienced cyclists do not recommend purchasing expensive components. with proper operation of such parts, even not the highest quality will manifest itself only on the positive side.

How to fine tune the rear derailleur

Periodically, bike owners have to fine-tune the rear derailleur. As a rule, such work is carried out in the following cases:

  • repairs, adjustment or complete replacement of chain drive elements were carried out;
  • new cables and their shirts were installed on the two-wheeled vehicle;
  • poor quality cables were installed on the bike and they constantly stretch during operation.

In this case, the switch is adjusted by unscrewing the hollow cable tension screw. it is enough to make half a turn to the left. After setting up, be sure to check the operation of the mechanism. ride a bike in different speed modes.

Using the tips and tricks given in the presented material, you can carry out the whole process yourself. The only thing to remember is that the rear derailleur, which is badly worn out, must be replaced: no adjustments / adjustments / cable changes will help.

How to adjust the bike’s rear derailleur

It must be said right off the bat that the hardest thing to tune is old, worn-out switches. The cheapest spreaders made of low quality material wear out very quickly. After years of operation, so much material is produced in the joints of their mechanisms that backlashes are already noticeable. Large wobbles of the rear derailleur will prevent you from adjusting to at least remove loud crackling when driving.

Adjusting the gearshift switches is not a difficult job to be addressed by a mechanic. You won’t be able to break the gearshift mechanism, the index system for changing speeds is the simplest and most reliable of all.

Reasons for the malfunction of the rear spreader

  • Unlubricated or damaged cable and its shirt.
  • Curved attachment to the rear spreader frame, the so-called cock.
  • Worn chain and sprocket cassette on the rear wheel.
  • Seized chain tensioner rollers on rear spreader.
  • Defective shift lever on the steering wheel.

Adjusting screws on the switch

Despite the variety of parallelogram switches sold, the principle of operation is the same, and therefore, they have a similar design. Usually they all have 5 adjusting elements:

  • Embedded bolt with nut for fastening the cable.
  • Hollow screw with drum for cable tension.
  • Thrower travel stop screw to largest sprocket. denoted by letter L.
  • Thrower travel stop screw to smallest sprocket. marked with H.
  • Chain tension screw.

Some inexpensive derailleurs may not have a cable tension drum and chain tension screw. But there is an adjusting drum on the steering wheel shifters. So you can adjust the tension of the cable directly in motion, without forgetting to throw the chain onto the smallest sprocket.

Rear derailleur setting

It is convenient to lubricate, adjust and repair chain drive units with the rear wheel raised. To do this, you can tilt the bike, leaning on the side stand, hang the bike on hooks or an ironing board, ask a friend for help. A rear wheel stand will help out well in this situation.

  • clean the derailleur and sprocket cassette well;
  • place the chain at the front on the middle sprocket and at the back on the smallest sprocket.

The rear spreader needs to be cleaned to properly set up. Namely: clean the tensioner rollers from dirty grease, remove the blades of grass and sticks from the sprocket cassette, wash and lubricate the chain. Even after this simple work, the switch starts to work much better.

Releasing the cable:

  • screw in the tension screws on the rear spreader and at the shifter all the way;
  • pull the cable out of the clamping screw.

It is not necessary to completely remove the cable from the bike, but it will not hurt to inspect it for damage and lubricate.

Setting the travel limit to the smallest sprocket: crouch at the back of the bike and turn the adjusting screw H, set the transfer device to a position in which its rollers and the smallest sprocket in the cassette will be in a straight line.

There is one trick here: if the spreader is no longer new, and it staggers, then you can adjust it more or less accurately only by placing the frame not in a straight line, but literally moving a hair to the right, away from the wheel.

If the setting is done correctly, then when the wheel rotates, the chain does not try to jump to the side and works silently.

Adjusting the cable tension:

  • we fix the cable with a mounting bolt, pulling the cable not with pliers, but by hand;
  • we tighten the cable by rotating the hollow screw with a drum, so that the spreader can easily switch from one sprocket to another and back with one click and press the shifter.

It is enough to adjust the transition only between two adjacent stars, and the shift will be adjusted on all the sprockets of the cassette. This is the advantage of the index gear change system.

If a groove is provided for the cable in the clamp, then make sure that it hits exactly in it, and does not squeeze, being fixed incorrectly.

Setting the travel limit to the largest sprocket:

  • we loosen the adjusting screw L so that it does not interfere with the movement of the spreader;
  • turning the pedals, we throw the chain to the largest sprocket at the back;
  • turning the adjusting screw L, align the spreader in the position when its rollers and the largest sprocket of the cassette are exactly on the same line.

Again, if your bike has a padded derailleur, then it is advisable to shift its frame a little from a straight line when adjusting, but towards the wheel. Sometimes this is just a little bit is not enough for the wobbly derailleur to throw the chain onto the largest sprocket in the back.

Chain tensioner adjustment:

  • we transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the front and the largest in the back;
  • if, when the chain rotates, the upper tensioner roller touches the sprocket in the cassette, then tighten the chain tension screw. It is necessary to set the gap between them, approximately equal to 5 mm;
  • move the chain to the largest sprocket in the front and the smallest at the back and check the chain tension in this position.

Cables and shirts

Sometimes an amazing result is obtained by simply cleaning the cables and shirts, as well as their subsequent lubrication with liquid oil. After such a simple operation, it becomes much easier to switch speeds on a bicycle. Ropes and shirts vary in strength and price, but even cheap parts will last long if you give them half an hour of your time once a month. Keeping all parts of the bike clean and lubricated is all that is required of you.

A cable shirt, as you can imagine, is needed to protect against dirt and wash off the grease. In the world of mountain biking, it has long been a rule to hide the cables in the tubes as much as possible. But the longest cable of the rear derailleur cannot be hidden for its entire length, because it will be very tight to walk in an excessively long shirt, especially in places of kinks. On some expensive mountain bikes, the cables are partially extended inside the frame.

If you find a torn cable with unbraided wires, then the only correct repair will be to replace it with a new one. The same applies to the cable guards. all broken jackets with stretched steel must be replaced.

In the event that the rear derailleur setting is unexpectedly lost, this may be due to:

  • pulling out the cable from the fixing bolt on the spreader;
  • pushing the plug on one end of the shirt.

Rear derailleur cock

If, when the chain is on any one sprocket in front, the gear change from the back is smooth, and when changing to another front sprocket, it becomes difficult to shift, then most likely the cock is bent on the bike.

The rear spreader, located down and away from the frame, is more prone to breakage than other parts of the bike when riding over logs or curbs. In the event of a fall, both the parallelogram switch itself and its mounting may bend from a side impact. If the rear parallelogram is attached directly to the frame, it may break. If the switch is put on special fasteners, then it itself can remain intact, and the cock will bend, as a rule, towards the spokes.

In order to determine if the cock is bent, and the rear derailleur at the same time, it is enough, sitting down behind the bike, to look at the position of the derailleur. Two rollers of the chain tensioner must be in a strictly vertical plane in relation to each other.

Under no circumstances should you try to straighten the bent cock by grabbing the rear derailleur. The transfer frame is very fragile. First, it is she who will begin to bend, and not the deformed fastener. It is a good idea to completely remove the cock from the bike to align it on the plate. Better yet, use a special tool with which you can accurately straighten the bent mount directly on the bike frame. This tool works like a lever and has a pointer showing how accurately the cock is vertically aligned.

Chains and stars

Sometimes the cause of a problematic gear change is already the extreme wear of the chain drive. Long driving at prohibited speed combinations leads to increased lateral wear of the chain and sprockets. Do not ride in positions where the chain is very skewed: on the smallest sprocket in front and rear and on the largest front and rear sprocket.

There are times when the new rear sprocket cassette is skewed onto the rear wheel hub, as many people buy the cheapest bike parts. And often, in order to eliminate the wobbling of the sprocket cassette, it is enough to adjust it by removing one or two adjusting rings inside the ratchet mechanism.

Chain tensioner rollers

The small sprockets on the switch frame should also be cleaned and lubricated at least once a year. Having outlived their own, and even without a share of attention, the rollers always jam, and the chain on them often simply rubs, bouncing and flying off the rear sprockets.

As for the material for making the rollers, that is, a carbon coating on top, and ceramic bearings inside. But to save the household budget, there is no point in buying expensive toys, since all common plastic wheels will last longer than the switch itself, of course, with simple maintenance.

Steering wheel switches

If the shifter on the steering wheel breaks, then it will not be difficult to understand, since the cable tension will immediately weaken, or it will simply stop pulling. Chasing expensive Sram, Shimano components in the hope that they won’t work better is not worth it. For an ordinary inexpensive bike, gear change speed and component weight are not as important as maintainability and cheapness of replacement parts.

about setting the rear derailleur in a short

Rear derailleur fine adjustment

From time to time, you will have to fine-tune the rear spreader in the following cases:

  • If repair, replacement, adjustment of chain drive units was carried out.
  • New cables and shirts installed on the bike.
  • Low-quality cables stretch strongly during operation, and plugs at the ends are squeezed out of the shirts.

The switch adjustment is performed by unscrewing the hollow cable tension screw half a turn to the left. It is easier to unscrew the screw when the cable tension is relaxed. when the shifter is reset to the highest speed. Be sure to check the accuracy of the setting while riding a bike.

That’s all about setting the rear derailleur. If you follow all the guidelines here, your bike’s rear ejector will work like a Swiss watch. But in no case should you suffer with an overly stubby switch. Better to replace it with a new one.

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Setting

A very common problem faced by cyclists is the fuzzy rear derailleur. Today we will try to figure out how to set it up from scratch or adjust if the settings are lost.

This article is suitable for setting up all shimano, sram, campagnolo, microshift and other derailleurs, no matter how many speeds you have on your bike, from 2 to 11 speed sprockets on the rear wheel.

Tools:

The tools you may need are a Phillips screwdriver and possibly a 10 or 8 hex key or wrench depending on the switch. It is also very convenient to carry out work on a special bike rack, but without it you can do it too.

Reasons for the deterioration of the rear derailleur:

Lack of service. Most often, when buying a bike, the derailleur works well and flawlessly, but after the season of operation, you can replace the deterioration in performance or even the chain jumping off the extreme sprockets. In 70% of cases, setting the rear derailleur helps, but sometimes this does not help either, then the cable and shirt should be replaced, as they become clogged with dirt and interfere with the smooth running of the cable in the shirt. Usually bike maintenance is done once a year, in which the switch settings are enabled.

Sometimes, in order to save money, the cable is lubricated with grease or any other lubricant and it turns out to improve the work for a while, but later the lubricant attracts dust to itself and the work deteriorates again, so you have to do this procedure more often than you would like.

Deterioration of the switch itself. Everything ever breaks down and the derailleur on a bike is no exception. Most often, the parallelogram axes of the switch wear out, due to which a small backlash is formed, which does not allow the switching to be adjusted correctly.

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Derailleur sprockets are worn. Over time, plastic sprockets wear out due to which the chain no longer holds on to them, which leads to poor operation of the derailleur. Also, the sprocket axles can wear out and the sprocket will dangle unnecessarily on the axle, which leads to poor shifting.

Curve cock or the switch itself. When you fall or hit something with the switch, the cock will most often bend (break), since it is made specially from a weaker alloy than the switch itself (to keep the more expensive part intact). The curvature does not allow the chains to stand up exactly, which reduces the efforts to adjust the throw to zero. Read how to straighten a cock with your hands.

Cable problems. Sometimes, during installation or when dropped, the cable may bend strongly, after which the place of the bend will prevent the smooth movement of the cable in the shirt. In this case, its replacement is required.

It also happens that the cable gets loose (that’s why you should use the ends of the cables) and later one of the thin threads begins to separate from the main bundle, as a result, prevents the normal movement of the cable in the shirt. Sometimes one thread in the cable can break and also prevent it from working normally, here you can isolate it from the main bundle along the entire length of the cable. But the best option would be to replace the cable with a new one.

If a new cable was installed, then sometimes after a certain number of kilometers (about 100 km), you may notice a deterioration in switching. this is due to the fact that the cable is stretched a little. In this case, it will be necessary to tighten the cable tension bolt a little.

Important! If at least one of the 5 problems you have, it will not be possible to adjust the switch perfectly!

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Adjustment

After we have eliminated all 5 possible problems with the rear derailleur, we can begin to configure it. I took a bike with a shimano rear derailleur and divided the whole setup into 8 steps:

On the shifter, we throw off to the highest speed (which corresponds to the smallest star on the block of led stars). We pedal so that the chain is on a small star. (now you understand why it is so convenient to work with the rack)

I do not show numbers on the shifter, but believe me the position of the indicator is on the “number” 9. Which corresponds to the smallest star on the cassette.

When adjusting the rear derailleur on the sprockets (front) the chain is best positioned where you use it most. This is usually the central star on a 3-star system.

Weaken the hexagon or bolt that holds the cable.

We twist it all the way, and then return one turn back all the cable tension adjusting knobs that are on the switch and on the shifter (sometimes there is only one adjustment screw on bicycles, most often it is on the switch, less often on the shifter).

In my case, the cable tension regulator is located only on the shifter. The photo shows how I spin the lamb.

We pull the cable with our hand (it is not necessary to pull with all our strength, the main thing is that it does not sag and be stretched along its entire length) and tighten the bolt holding the cable.

Align the center of the derailleur foot rollers with the center of the smallest chainring on the bike. Some people remove the chain for stages 5 and 6 to fine tune them. I do not see the need for this, you can not shoot, especially if you have a switch that is not of the highest level, such as shimano tourney, acera or alivio.

Actually, all this movement of the switch occurs using the adjusting screws with the letters “H” and “L”.

The shift pad position adjusting screws look something like this.

We turn the screw “H” with a screwdriver until the centers of the rollers on the foot of the switch and the small star coincide and proceed to the next step.

In the photo, I showed a red line, along which you can see that the switch roller is under a small star on the cassette, which means that the extreme position is set correctly.

We switch on the shifter to the lowest speed (number 1), which corresponds to the largest driven star. We twist the pedals so that the chain goes to the extreme sprocket. And also align the center of the foot rollers with the center of the largest sprocket. All this alignment takes place with the screw “L”.

On the shifter, there is an indicator for switching the speed to number 1, if there are no numbers in the most extreme position, which should correspond to the largest star on the cassette.

Essentially, the “H” and “L” screws act as end stops for your derailleur, which keeps the chain from flying off while driving and keeps you alive.

We expose the extreme position of the switch foot so that the switch does not hit the wheel spokes. By aligning the axes of the largest sprocket on the cassette and the axis of the derailleur foot.

We drop again at the highest speed. Do not forget to pedal. The chain should be on the smallest star. Next, switch to one speed and turn the pedals, if the chain does not jump or does not jump right away, then you need to slightly unscrew the adjusting screw that adjusts the cable tension (it turns out we pull the cable).

Then again we check and switch from the highest speed to one step lower (if the 8-speed cassette, then from 8 to 7 speed), if the switch happened immediately, congratulations you set the switch! You can check the remaining speeds will also easily and clearly switch both up and down.!

The chain should jump to the adjacent speed. In my case, this is a 9 speed cassette. Switching from 9 to 8.

Adjust the distance from the largest star to the derailleur roller. This distance should be about 4 mm, if the distance is greater, the switching clarity will be reduced. The adjustment screw on the switch is responsible for adjusting this gap. Unscrewing the screw the distance decreases, screwing it in increases. tuning is done on the largest star corresponding to the number 1 on your shifter.

Possible errors when setting the rear derailleur

Question: What if I unscrewed the adjusting screw to the end, and the chain still does not switch to 1 speed lower? Answer: Most likely you pulled the cable poorly by hand from step 4, or you did it with insufficiently tightened cable tension adjusting screws from step 3, and it is also possible that you did not pull the cable at the highest speed on the shifter described in step 1.

Question: I reached stage 7, but the chain was not on the smallest star why? Answer: You may have pulled the cable too tight with your hands in step 4, in which case try to loosen the cable tension slightly with the adjusting screw. If the chain still does not go to the extreme small star, repeat steps 1 to 4.

Rear derailleur setup video:

Share your experience with setting switches in the comments.

Adjusting the front and rear derailleur on the bike. How to adjust the speed switch on a bike

It often happens that either the speeds on the bike are not switched clearly, or some new transmission elements have been installed. In this case, you will need to adjust the speed switch and it is quite possible to do this work on your own, without contacting specialized workshops.

Necessary terminology

To understand the process of self-adjusting the speed switch, you need to know the definition of some specific terms, otherwise it will be difficult to understand the instructions.

Things to remember:

  • Speed ​​switch (override). This is a transmission element that is specifically responsible for gear shifting. If there is a rear overhang, then it also acts as a support for the tension of the bicycle chain. The crossover (back and front) can be described as follows: it is a parallelogram mechanism equipped with a powerful return spring, on which the frame is fixed. The rear derailleur has two rollers inside the frame. if the level of cable tension rises, the frame shifts the chain to large stars, and if this cable tension decreases, then the chain is shifted towards small stars with the help of the frame. The mechanism of the front derailleur works in the same way.
  • Shifter. It is designed to switch speeds by changing the tension level of the cable. Most often, the shifter is located on the handlebars, but in some bicycle models it can also be located on the lower tube of the frame triangle. Note:shifters and speed switches have a common connection on the steering wheel (this is provided by a cable) and are covered with a jacket.
  • Cassette. This is the name of the rear transmission unit, which consists of stars of different sizes (of different diameters and with a different number of teeth) and is installed on the rear hub drum. If the bike model is old, then a ratchet is used instead of a drum in the rear hub.
  • Cock. This is a metal part that helps to maintain the integrity of the frame and rear derailleur in the event that the vehicle has been hit. The rooster is always attached to the frame, and a cross-over is already attached to this metal part. When a blow occurs, it is this very cock that breaks down, and the frame and the speed switch (crossover) remain intact.
  • System. This is the name of the front transmission unit, which consists of stars of different diameters and with a different number of teeth. These stars are fastened to each other and the connecting rods with special hollow bolts on the connecting rods, but you need to know that there are no hollow bolts in cheap bicycles. the stars and connecting rods are riveted together.

Why is there a violation of gear shifting

To understand what action should be taken to adjust gear shifting, you need to understand what causes may lead to the problem under consideration. Experts identify several such predisposing factors:

  • deformation of the rooster;
  • stretching the cable;
  • deformation of the speed switch;
  • malfunctioning return spring.

How to fix defects

The speed switch will work perfectly and the bike itself will be with a new (or not very old) cable, with absolutely intact shirts (and not dry!) ​​And not deformed (or in a small volume) stars and chain.

If the cable is just stretched, then you just need to pull it up. But if the cable breaks, then you cannot do without replacing this element. The process of replacing the cable is not difficult, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the recommendations of specialists:

  • unscrew the cable fixing screw, which is located on the cross-over;
  • pull the cable out of the shirts;
  • if necessary, disassemble the shifter and pull the cable out of it;
  • a new cable must be inserted into a special groove in the shifter, and it is the metal tip of the cable that must enter into the groove;
  • lubricate the entire cable with a special grease, you do not need to spare the consumable;
  • pass the cable through the shirts;
  • there are special grooves on the frame, into which shirts are tucked;
  • fasten the cable with a screw on the front.

In case of poor gear shifting, pay attention to the return spring. it must be clean and lubricated. To achieve this, you just need to rinse the spring under running water, dry it completely and lubricate it thoroughly.

If the frame of the rear derailleur is crooked, then this can only mean one thing. the cock is bent. If this is not critical, then you can correct the cock with your hands. you need to take the rear switch in your hand, which is fixed on the cock, and with the other hand hold the frame. Slowly pull out the problematic transmission element (rooster) until relatively level.

Note: this “repair” of the cock is a temporary solution to the problem of shifting gears. The fact is that the rooster is a consumable that needs to be changed in time, and not constantly repaired / pulled.

In some cases, the bike owner pays attention to a deformed rear derailleur (the front derailleur rarely suffers on impact). it can also be returned to its original position using the hands. But if the rear derailleur is deformed too much, then it is advisable to replace it.

Note: After performing specific manipulations to repair bent / deformed parts, you should not use the bike for too long. this may end in a fall, another breakdown at the most inopportune moments. And in some cases, such carelessness can lead to a road accident.!

How to properly adjust the rear derailleur

To independently adjust the rear derailleur on a bicycle, you just need to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions from experts in this process. So, follow all the steps:

  • Move the chain to the small sprocket with the right shifter.
  • Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
  • Find the screw with the “H” mark. Use a screwdriver to adjust this screw so that the smallest star lies in the same plane with the rollers, which are located in the foot (frame).
  • Pull the cable by hand and fix it with the screw.
  • Check the operation of the switch, and if it does not work correctly, the chain does not switch well to large stars, then you need to tighten the cable harder (either with the help of a drum or with a switch).
  • Move the chain to the largest sprocket available in the cassette.
  • Find the screw marked “L” and adjust it so that the tab (frame) and the sprocket are in the same plane. in this case, the crossover will not be able to get into the spokes of the front wheel.

How to adjust the front derailleur

There are also clear and simple step-by-step instructions for adjusting the front derailleur:

  • Move the chain to a smaller star.
  • Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
  • We find a screw marked “L”, with its help we adjust the position of the frame so that the chain is between the plates of the frame, but at the same time does not touch them.
  • We stretch the cable, fix it with a screw.
  • Now we move the chain in the cassette to a smaller sprocket. it is convenient to do this using the rear derailleur.
  • With the front derailleur, move the chain to the middle sprocket and look. if the chain on the second one touches the outer side of the frame everywhere, then you need to increase the tension of the cable using the drum located on the left shifter.
  • We switch the gear to the largest sprocket in the cassette and check. if the chain touches the walls of the frame, you need to move the last element so that the chain is in the middle. This manipulation can be done using the screw marked “H”.

How to properly adjust the bike’s front derailleur?

It is generally not worth adjusting the front derailleur until the rear derailleur is configured. But before you tweak something, you need to thoroughly know how it works. Therefore, let’s try to understand the principle of its work.

How this switch works

This is not a Tiptronic automatic transmission and the operation of the switch is very simple. All conventions aside, it’s just a steel frame suspended from a bicycle frame that can move left and right. As it moves, it pushes the bicycle chain and makes it move from one sprocket to another. Powered by a cable that is connected to a shifter on the handlebars.

Everything seems to be simple, but not as it seems. The front derailleur has to work with the busiest top of the chain, which transmits power to the rear sprockets and is always in tension. Therefore, in the event that the derailleur is not set correctly, changing gears will be difficult even with ideal rear shift settings.

To make the whole adjustment clear and understandable, let’s imagine that we are installing it on a bare bike frame. Settings from scratch, kind of.

Installing the front derailleur to the frame

In order to determine if the bulkhead is correctly positioned on the frame, we must ensure that:

  • derailleur frame is 2 mm higher than the teeth of the largest chainring;
  • the frame should be located strictly parallel to the block of leading stars;
  • the bike’s front derailleur is washed, all dirt and dust is removed, it is greased and all adjusting screws rotate freely;
  • the chain is on the largest star in the back and on the smallest star in the front;
  • the drive cable clamping screw is loose;
  • the cable cover is loose (it is in a free, loose state);
  • front crossover angle. the center line should be parallel to the center line of the frame.
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Below we have placed a picture in which we tried to demonstrate the initial positions of the entire structure before setting up.

A little tip. the lower the front derailleur is lowered, the clearer it will work.

And here a question arises, the solution of which we cannot influence without replacing the re-throw. If the radius of the star is greater than that for which the switch is designed, then the rear of the frame will catch the teeth of the large star. But sometimes this can be cured by fine adjustments, which we will talk about later. In the meantime, everything is ready and we are waiting for the setting of the front derailleur.

Tuning method

Step one

By turning screw 1, we achieve that the frame is at a minimum distance from the chain from the side of the carriage. Make sure that the chain does not touch the frame.

Step two

Fasten the gearshift cable. Pulling it slightly, fix it with a screw or fastening nut. If there is a spacer washer with a groove, put the cable into it and clamp it.

Step three

We transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the back and to the largest in the front. By turning the screw 2, we achieve the minimum distance between the chain and the frame, but without contact.

Step four

We check the operation of the switch under load. If the chain moves freely along all the stars and does not touch the frame while driving, we can consider the setup complete. Congratulations.

But you will never be able to adjust so that the chain does not rub against the frame at the front highest and rear lowest and vice versa. It is necessary to strive for this, but not everyone succeeds. Therefore, if you want to achieve academic heights in setting up the front changeover, then only practice will help in this.

Sometimes the fault of the frame grinding against the chain can be increased wear of the crossover. It’s easy to check. if the frame has play, it is better to change the speed switch to a new one. Its repair is not worth the time you spend, and a new one is not that expensive, and besides, there will be a guarantee that it will last for more than one season.

But in any case, no matter how carefully you set up the front shifter, it will not save you from the rattle of the chain on the frame if you are not shifting gears correctly. Without going into subtleties, remember the most important thing. you do not need to switch speeds while loading the pedals. Those. stop pedaling for a second, switch the speed and smoothly (without excessive pressure) make a few pedals. When you do not yet realize that the chain has moved to the correct sprocket, you can continue with normal pedaling. over, the cheaper the system on your bike, the stricter it is to follow this rule.

In general, the settings described above are sufficient for comfortable and problem-free operation of the front gearshift.

Setting up bike derailleurs (for beginners)

Setting up bike derailleurs (beginner’s guide)

So, let’s continue our series of articles for beginners. Recall that in previous articles we looked at how to take care of your bike and correct gear shifting on the move. In this article, I would like to make a short guide to self-tuning or even complete customization of the bike after purchase.

There are many reasons:

Opinions on how to set up a bike and where to start differ, many say that you must first set up the front derailleur, and then the rear, others vice versa. The essence of this does not change, but it is really recommended to first adjust the rear derailleur in order to more correctly configure the front.

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Setting

First, we’ll look at the design of the switch itself:

On more modern switches there is also a switch tension adjustment screw, but we will not consider it, since it is generally not needed in setting.

Tuning mechanism

Shifting the rear derailleur to the smallest star

Unscrew the rear derailleur cable clamp screw and loosen the cable

Install the chain on the front derailleur to the middle sprocket (click the left coin on the steering wheel)

We spin the pedals on the weight, if the flail falls off the stars, it means that the screw marked “H” must be tightened by 1-2 turns, if after that the chain is in place, but at the same time it tries to switch independently to the next gear. we unscrew this screw by 0.5.1 turn

The essence of this method is that when the rear derailleur cable is unscrewed, use the screw “H” so that the rear derailleur and the smallest sprocket in front are absolutely in line, this is easy to check, just look at the rear of the transmission from the side of the stars.

If everything is ok, then move on. we pull the cable by hand and tighten the bolt to fix the tension

Try it. click the rear derailleur shift knob 1 speed up, if the switch was correct, click further to the largest star, if not, then pull the cable with an “adjusting drum”. We unscrew the drum by 1 turn, try if ok, continue to click further, if not switch another 1 turn.

So, we got to the largest star at the back, but when switching, 2 situations can arise:

a) the chain falls off behind a large sprocket. then it is necessary to tighten the adjusting screw “L” by 1-2 turns

b) it is impossible to switch to the largest star at the back, the shift knob does not click or the switch itself simply does not switch. then the bolt marked “L” should be unscrewed by 1-2 turns.

That’s all we have set up the rear derailleur of the bike. All adjustments by bolts “H” and “L” are made slowly, you should unscrew / tighten no more than 1 turn at a time, maybe even 0.5 turn, in order to set the switch as correctly and quickly as possible. Let’s move on.

Front derailleur setting

When adjusting the front derailleur, there are nuances that depend on the derailleur itself (foot width) and transmission (6/7/8 and more speeds). We take a look at the most popular ShimanoTourneyFD-TX50 and ShimanoAceraFD-M360 derailleurs.

Tuning mechanism

Switch to the smallest star in the front and the largest star in the back.

Unscrew the front derailleur cable

We adjust the switch frame with the screw “L” so that when installing the switch, the inner part of its frame (the one that is closer to the bike, when viewed from above) does not touch the chain. tighten if the distance to the chain is more than 3 mm or unscrew if less.

After that, we pull the front derailleur cable, but not tightly, so that when you tighten the cable tension screw so that the cable is slightly relaxed (dangling in a horizontal plane by about 1-1.5 cm)

We switch to the middle star and start checking. we install the second star behind, that is, not the smallest one, but the next one. We check. if the chain touches the outer frame of the switch, then we stretch the cable, on the shift knob we have the same plastic bolt as on the rear derailleur, unscrew it 1-2 turns, so that the distance of the chain from the outer frame of the switch is 3-4 mm.

Moving on to setting the largest sprocket. switch the rear derailleur to the smallest sprocket and watch. If you switched without problems, then we do not turn anything, if it did not switch, that is, there was a click, but the switch did not switch, then we unscrew the screw “H” by 1-2 turns, if it switched and the chain slept, then we tighten this screw by 1-2 turns. We check further. the distance to the outer frame should be no more than 3 mm when turning on the smallest star from behind. If everything is ok, then you did everything perfectly.

How to properly adjust the rear and front derailleurs on a bicycle: photo and description of the process

Despite the fact that the bicycle was invented a long time ago and, it would seem, should have been out of date for a long time, but this two-wheeled vehicle is gaining more and more popularity every year. Cycling enthusiasts prefer this type of transport due to its convenience, ease of operation, environmental safety and practicality. Not only ordinary bicycles are very popular, but also mountain, track bikes, which use modern innovative technologies. In order for the owners to enjoy cycling, they need to take care of it and monitor the condition of all parts and assemblies. If, in the process of cycling, you hear extraneous sounds, creaking, knocking and twitching during gear changes, it’s time to pay attention to such a detail as the gear selector.

Rear derailleur

The gear shifter is an important part of a multi-speed bike. Thanks to this component, it becomes possible to move in extreme conditions, which include upwind movement, ascents, poor road quality. The transmission unit must deal with all these problems. The quality of the ride and the safety of the cyclist depend on the smooth operation of the speed switch. This skill is very useful, and every bike owner should learn how to independently adjust the gear shifter. Every cyclist can make adjustments to bicycle shifters. You need to study the theory in detail by reading the instructions, or using the advice of experienced bike owners.

Before setting the derailleur, the rear derailleur must be adjusted. Placing the bike in the correct position (wheels up) will greatly facilitate the entire adjustment process. So, all the necessary details will be in sight, and it will be much easier to get to them.

Reasons for poor gear shifting:

  • physical defects of the switch parts;
  • contamination of parts. To prevent this from happening, the components of the transmission unit must be periodically cleaned of dirt, dust and old grease;
  • worn out cable with elements of damage. Such a part requires replacement;
  • damage to the cock.

If you observe damage, deformation and wear of the constituent parts, they must be replaced as they are practically irreparable.

If all parts are OK, adjust the switch. What does the speed switch consist of? The components of the speed switch are as follows:

  • Handle for gear shifting located on the steering wheel;
  • A shifter that attaches to the handlebars near the handles. Handles and a cable are attached to the shifter. It is with the participation of the cable that the impulse is transmitted from the shifter to the stars;
  • Cassette, which includes stars of different sizes;
  • front fixing mount;
  • rear derailleur, whose main function is to switch the chain to the required sprockets.

How the switches work

Using the handle and shifter, the cyclist activates the required speed. In a certain position of the handle, the cable is pulled. As a result of this tension, the frame is thrown onto larger sprockets; when the cable is loosened, it is not thrown onto small sprockets. As mentioned above, bike setup can be started from the rear derailleur. Procedure for adjusting the rear derailleur:

  • select the second star in the front block, and the smallest in the rear one and set the switch chain on them;
  • The bike’s rear derailleur system has two bolts that act as stops. One is abbreviated as H, and on the other. L. These two bolts are used to adjust the high and low gears on the stars. If during the adjustment process any extraneous sounds occur, you can get rid of them using the latch;
  • check the tension of the cable and, if the tension is not correct, use the regulator located on the shifter;
  • Test the switching quality. If the switching occurs smoothly, no extraneous sounds are heard, then you did everything right.

What to do if you can’t adjust the bike’s rear derailleur

There are several methods for solving this issue. But if the standard tuning instruction did not work, to tune the rear derailleur you need to:

  • dismantle the chain, remove the cable;
  • move the switch to the chain position to the smallest star;
  • use adjusting bolts (this way you can tighten the cable);
  • set the adjusting bolt H to the extreme position;
  • move the part called the parallelogram to the big star and adjust the position of the bolt L.

The regulator is fixed with screws. It must be set to the extreme position. After that, the chain must be displaced in this order: the front cassette is the largest star in diameter, the rear, on the contrary, is the smallest.

Bicycle front derailleur

The transition to setting this mechanism is possible only when the rear derailleur is set. This feature is important to take into account before starting work. The figure shows the switch (round, black).

Leave the chain on the middle sprocket of the front block and place it on the large sprocket in the rear block. If chain friction is observed, re-engage adjuster L. To adjust stop H, the chain moves to the largest sprocket at the front and smallest at the back. The adjuster will help you position the chain in the optimal position without friction and excessive chain tension. At the end of the work, be sure to check the quality of its implementation.

Correct installation of the front derailleur

You can start the front derailleur setting only after adjusting the rear derailleur. Installation is the initial step in adjusting the speed switch. It’s very important to do it right.

  • before installing the switch, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the constituent parts and, if necessary, clean them of dirt and lubricate.
  • Next, adjust the location of the front derailleur. On the frame, it should be located along the pipe under the saddle.
  • Set the steering angle parallel to the drive sprocket on the front cassette of the transmission unit.
  • Next, you need to adjust the gap between the underside of the derailleur frame and the top line of the teeth of the large gear. The gap should be minimal.
  • Adjust the degree of cable tension.
  • Place the chain close to the inside of the frame.

It is also worth paying attention to setting up the chain. The bicycle chain is a very important element, with the help of which the impulse is transmitted from one chainring to another and the adjustment process takes place. The technical condition of the circuit is of great importance for the operation of the entire system. If, for some reason, the bicycle chain is stretched or deformed, this cannot but adversely affect the operation of the entire transmission unit. To prevent this from happening, the chain must be periodically removed and cleaned, and then set the correct position. There are lock and lockless models of bicycle chains. They differ in the way they are connected. To remove the locking chain, it is enough to find the link with the lock and disconnect it with a screwdriver. The lockless bicycle chain is disconnected using a squeeze. This tool helps to push the link axle out and make the connector. If it skews for some reason, this can adversely affect the gearshift process.

One of the best manufacturers of bicycle parts, including derailleurs, is the Japanese company Shimano, which has a proven track record of producing products in which Japanese quality is combined with budget and price. Shimano derailleurs (fig. 3) are suitable for all types of bicycles. Shimano derailleurs are installed on both regular touring bicycles and mountain and track bikes with gearboxes up to 33 speeds.

Another recognized market leader is Sram. The products of this company are used on bicycles of the city bike category, as well as on sports bicycles. Sram products are of good quality and affordable price for cycling enthusiasts.

Every bicycle owner who prefers this type of transport to others is obliged to understand how to switch its speeds. It is believed that the more speeds a bike has, the better it is. But in fact, speed only allows you to improve the quality of maneuvering and squeeze the maximum out of the bike’s capabilities, so then everything depends on the dynamic efforts of the person riding the bike. Conventional bicycles have a simpler design compared to high-speed ones. There is less hassle with such a bike, but it also has fewer possibilities. In the transmission unit of such bicycles there are only two stars: one large and one small. Multi-speed bicycles, which have gained popularity in recent years, have two sets of sprockets in their transmission units: front and rear. Each cassette contains stars of different sizes. To switch gears correctly, you need to remember a few basic rules:

  • If your bike is not equipped with a planetary hub, you only need to switch gears on it while driving, otherwise there is a danger of damage to the bike.
  • During gear shifting, it is not necessary to apply significant dynamic forces, in order to eliminate the danger of a burst of flowers, it is advisable to change gears sequentially, without making sudden jerks.