Do I need to lubricate the cables on my bike

Quick and easy lubrication of brake and shift cables

need, lubricate, cables, bike

The wear of the brake and shift cables is slow enough that we do not immediately notice a deterioration in their performance. It ends with problems in gear shifting and loss of braking force. Regular lubrication of these cables will extend their life and optimize performance. On many models of bicycles, this is quite easy to do, in a few minutes and without the help of tools.

So let’s start with the brakes. Disconnect the brake lever quick release. This will loosen the cable slightly and you can pull the cable jacket out of the rails welded to your frame. On some models today, you can also easily pull the cable nipple out of the brake lever.

Now we have a cable, still attached in its working part, but more or less relaxed and disconnected from the rest of the bike (depending on the model). You will notice that it is now possible to move the cable jacket along the inside of the cable. Take some oil and apply it to the inner cable, then move it back and forth inside the shirt. Capillary action plus vigorous hand movements will allow the lubricant to travel along the inside of the cable. Then reconnect all connections, wipe the part of the inner cable that will be visible after fastening with a rag and your bike is ready to use again.

In the case of the transmission cable, the lubrication principle is the same, but here the way to release the cable jacket is more complicated. First place the chain on the largest sprocket, then without pedaling, shift to the highest speed. If done correctly, the cable will loosen and the derailleur will be held in place by the chain. The rear derailleur is easier to operate, so it is best to work with it first. The cable is lubricated in the manner described above. Then you just connect everything as it was.

The advantages of this method include, first of all, the fact that you do not need to completely reinstall the cable and derailleur. In addition, you have the opportunity to check the current condition of the cables. This cannot be done by simply pulling the lever. So you know more precisely if this component needs replacing. As you acquire the appropriate skill, the whole process will go very quickly.

NB! Owners of bicycles that do not have slotted rails, downtube shifters, or full cable jackets will need to loosen the locknuts.

Bicycle grease

In this table, I have collected bicycle lubricants for different applications, it may be useful for you.

Squirt Wax lubricant, smudges less, extends chain life
Pedros Extra Dry Popular bike lubricant for dry weather
Muc-Off Wet Lube Good lubrication for wet conditions
Finish Line Premium Grease for bearings, steering, suspension units
Shimano Cable Grease Lubricant for speed cables and brakes
Brunox deo Rubbing silicone (fork legs)

How to properly lubricate your bike. what lubricants to use

If you neglect the lubrication of the bike, then water and dirt do their destructive work. As a result, the bike becomes covered with rust spots, and individual elements of the bike are completely destroyed and jammed. Bicycle grease, by creating a protective layer on the metal surface, prevents it from contact with air, thereby reducing the risk of corrosion. Today’s article is the answer to the question: how to lubricate a bicycle?

How to lubricate bicycle bearings

From time to time, you need to lubricate everything that spins and rubs in the bike. all bearings that you can reach. For a start. what. On the advice of bike mechanics, I once bought a can of excellent Finish Line grease, in my opinion, just an ideal solution for bearings. very slippery (it was also useful in the house).

Bicycle hub lubrication

Bearings in wheel hubs on a bicycle are of two types: open bulk bearings pressed by cones and industrial bearings enclosed in a cartridge. Despite the fact that both types of hubs on mountain bikes are considered moisture and dirt resistant, water and dirt seeps into them as they are used.

I remember that after the season of trophy raids on forests and swamps, algae did not start in the bushings, nevertheless, after 10 minutes of cleaning and lubrication, these wheels served many thousands of kilometers.

With bulk bearings, everything is simple. cone wrenches free access to the balls, then any degreaser removes dirt and old grease, put a new one, and after a short adjustment of the cones you can go rolling.

Of course, for such procedures you need a certain tool, but if you decide to do the maintenance of the bike yourself, then sooner or later you will have a complete set.

Many bushings on industrial bearings assume maintenance-free operation, since the cartridges are changed very simply and almost without tools. But you can try to get to the bearing and also clean it and lubricate it.

Lubrication of the cables

Not so long ago, before the advent of modern shirts, it was necessary to lubricate the cables with thick oil. Today shirts are made with a special plastic inner coating that makes lubrication unnecessary. And in some cases (modern (discrete) switches) grease can spoil the clarity of work.

However, if you plan to use the bike in wet conditions, a small amount of lubricant should still be applied. Lubrication, in this case, will slow down rusting. Also, a small amount of lubricant can help with careless cable routing. When the shirt enters the holder at an acute angle, you can lubricate this place.

Cable routing

The main rules for laying cables:

  • The steering wheel should turn to the maximum angle in both directions. The tension of the cables should not restrict it. The turn of the steering wheel should be limited by an emphasis on the frame of any part;
  • There should be no unnecessary bends. The cable, in places of turns, should immediately go in the right direction. If he first turns to one side, and only then to the desired one, then the length of the shirt is chosen incorrectly;
  • The cable should run smoothly in places of turns;
  • Shirts should be as short as possible. But at the same time, they must not violate the previous rules.

Passing the switch cables

This cable routing is common on road bikes. This installation method has disadvantages. shifting worsens, due to the fact that the cable runs along the bottom of the feather, as a result, the shirt on the rear derailleur makes a very large loop. In addition, the shirts and cables laid under the carriage are subject to increased dirt, a large amount of dirt from the front wheel gets on them.

Top cable routing is common in mountain bikes. Since, in addition to problems with contamination, there is a danger of damage to the cable on a stone if it is laid under the carriage.

Carrying out brake cables

Curved steering wheel (ram’s horn)

Previously, the cable was carried by bending it up and behind the wheel. This provided the smoothest bending. On modern bicycles, with combined brake levers and shifters, the brake cables are laid under grips or handlebars. So the cables do not block access to the shifter and bike computers.

The cables are laid under the steering wheel. The front brake cable goes directly to the brake, and the rear brake cable goes around the head tube in a circle and goes to the holder on the frame.

Lubrication of parts

Most of the parts related to the cables must also be lubricated.

  • You need to lubricate the threads of the adjusting drums, then it will be easier to use them.
  • The threads of the bolts holding the cables also need to be lubricated.

Bicycle lubrication | How and what should be lubricated in a bicycle

Bicycle lubrication | How and what should be lubricated in a bicycle

A bicycle, like any vehicle, requires care and repair, care and love. Bicycles consist of many moving parts that are constantly in operation, and as you know, friction of two or more different elements, without lubrication, against each other can lead to breakdown of mechanisms. Therefore, you should constantly check and lubricate the bike undercarriage.

What you need to lubricate your bike?

The chain is one of the most moving parts, it is constantly in operation, it is generally recommended to lubricate the chain after each trip, but few people do this. If you pedal and hear ringing, this is a signal that the chain needs to be lubricated. Do not under any circumstances lubricate the chain with thick grease, thick grease attracts dirt, dust, which entails a deterioration in the bike’s running characteristics. For lubrication, it is best to use a special chain lubricant, or silicone lubricant in aerosol cans, it is easy to apply and dust attracts less. Do not forget that it is better to change the chain every 1200. 1500 km.

It is better to clean it before lubricating the chain.

Axles of the brake levers (v-brake)

The brakes are constantly in operation and provide a stop, so the braking system must be monitored constantly. To lubricate the axles, slightly unscrew the clamping screws and lubricate them with aerosol grease. Forget-me-not tighten the screws. Apply the brake several times. Be careful when lubricating so that it does not get on the rim and brake pads.

The rollers are close to the ground and are constantly in contact with water, mud, etc. You can lubricate the rollers with a spray lubricant.

in order to lubricate the rear derailleur, place the bike on a rack and shift gears up and down, lubricate all moving parts of the rear derailleur.

Shift and brake cables.

It is very important to lubricate the cables as they provide precise shifting and effective braking. If not lubricated, they can become jammed in the cable jacket. To lubricate the cable, simply drop oil or aerosol grease at the cable entry and exit into the cable jacket and press the brakes and switches.

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If you have a regular bushing, and not a cartridge, then you should lubricate the bearings so that they do not burn out and do not jam. To lubricate the carriage, remove the connecting rods and unscrew the carriage nut. Take out the bearings, clean them and the cups, then put in grease and put everything back.

Trick for Lubricating Cables on a Bicycle

They should also be lubricated with grease, for this you will have to remove the wheel and unscrew the bushings, remove all the bearings (if you have loose ones), clean them and the cups, put the grease on the cups and the bearings on it.

Front suspension fork

If you have a conventional elastomer spring fork, just carefully pour oil under the boot with a syringe and work it out, remove the remaining oil with a rag.

If you have a double suspension, lubricate all bushings, bearings, hinges with oil.

Timely inspection and lubrication will prolong your friend’s life and ensure a safe and comfortable ride.

How greases work

Universal lubricants. They are suitable for machining carriages, bearings, forks, rear suspension arms. They have a wide operating temperature range (-50 ° C. 180 ° C) and are therefore used all year round.

We also note good water resistance and wash-off resistance. However, gradually they collect a lot of abrasive particles that destroy the nodes.

Calcium greases of yellow or green color are made in the same way as lithium ones. The only difference is that calcium soap is used to thicken the base oil. Note the high adhesion to metals and high resistance to water.

Lubricants have found use in bicycle parts that come into contact with water. These are wheel bearings, pedals, brake levers and more. There is no point in using calcium grease for the brake hub. The operating temperature range of this grease is from 35 ° C to 55 ° C.

Graphite lubricants are used in threaded connections and rear suspension arm bushings. In fact, these are the same calcium or lithium greases, but graphite powder is also added to them. As a result, they achieve an increase in the bearing capacity of the lubricant and its resistance to water.

And a little about technical Vaseline. It is the best lubricant for protecting metal surfaces. It does not allow them to oxidize, corrode and water. Suitable for lubricating bike cables.

IMPORTANT! It is not recommended to use it on chrome-plated surfaces, as they can be damaged by the free acids contained in it.

Ways to properly lubricate your bike

Each such unit must be regularly cleaned and lubricated. And if you choose the right lubricant for your bike, it will significantly extend the service life.

Experts recommend lubricating the bike every 100 km. And do not neglect this advice. Remember that a properly maintained and well-maintained bike will serve you faithfully and will give you a lot of joy from the movement.

What parts in the bike should be lubricated?

First of all, on the bike, you need to pay special attention to the chain. After all, this is the main unit of the vehicle. It is on him that the main load falls to ensure the movement of the bicycle. The performance depends on what the lubricant will be and in what quantity.

It is also necessary to service the tensioner mechanism. It is he who is opposed to the chain being weakened. And therefore he supports her in such a way that she is in a taut state.

The brake system needs axle lubrication. Without it, we cannot talk about traffic safety and about stopping the bike in time.

The speed selector is an integral mechanism. It has a back and a front. The back is a block of sprockets. The front is the gearshift mechanism. Both parts need to be lubricated.

With the help of control cables, forces are transmitted to the braking system and gears are changed. Lubrication of the cables leads to the fact that the brakes and gearshift mechanism operate without problems.

The wheel bearings provide smooth movement of the wheels. They also prevent them from wobbling when you drive. Once every 6 months, they need to be inspected and, if necessary, lubricated.

The damping system consists of a rear shock absorber and a special front fork, which are responsible for a soft ride, soften the impact of the wheels. They need to be cleaned and lubricated.

Bicycle lubricants can be divided into oils, greases and penetrating lubricants. A certain type of lubricant is required strictly for each specific unit.

How oils work when lubricating a bicycle

Two to three drops of oil a month is enough to renew the lubricant. The fourth drop may already lead to the fact that the liquid will flow out of the bike components. A sticky film will appear with dirt on it.

Spindle or industrial oil is suitable for lubricating bicycle forks and cables. It can also become a working fluid for an oil shock absorber.

Note the poor adhesion on open surfaces. And therefore, the liquid lubricant is renewed 1-2 times a month or immediately after the bicycle has been exposed to rain.

Two-component lubricants in aerosol cans or oil cans are also oils. Lubricant is a thick oil and solvent that is needed to thin the oil.

IMPORTANT! We note good fluidity and the ability to easily penetrate surfaces that are difficult to access. When the solvent evaporates, only a viscous oil remains.

Silicone lubricants, made in the form of liquid oil and aerosol, are used to maintain rubber seals.

Oils containing PTFE (Teflon) have the highest abrasion resistance. They cannot be squeezed out at high loads and speeds. Teflon grease is commonly used for bicycle chain.

Wax-based bicycle chain lubricant forms a thick protective film. And therefore, it needs to be updated very rarely. Compared to Teflon, it is slightly worse in terms of adhesion. The wax film will be squeezed out of the friction zones if it is under increased stress.

How to properly lubricate your bike?

Any unit is suitable to start lubricating from it. Sprockets and cassettes are lubricated several times. Remember to rotate the crank arms counterclockwise. You need a little lubricant. Please note that it should not be too thick.

To service the brakes, hold the brakes and apply lubricant to the cable, pivot and the points where the cable enters the jacket. Just one drop at the entry and exit of the cables will be enough. It is advisable not to let the grease get on the brake pads and discs. Otherwise, we cannot talk about work efficiency.

In order to lubricate the carriages and wheel bearings, greases are used. The speed and ease of movement depends on the state in which they are.

In the derailleurs, each movable element must be lubricated. It is not uncommon for these parts to become dirty as the lubricant thickens. And dirt accumulates in it. Move the switch in different directions. This is the easiest way to determine which parts need service.

In the shock absorbers, see what the oil level is. And if necessary, top it up or replace it. A specialized service is best suited for this. Let’s not forget that this procedure assumes that you have some skills.

Bicycle fork lubricant must be liquid. It’s good when it’s Teflon based. Only three to four drops will be enough on each surface, which will keep the plug in working order.

And roll the pedals, make a gear change and hit the brake levers a few times. All this is necessary in order for the lubricant to be distributed among the units. Anything that is superfluous will be squeezed out. Excess grease must be removed.

Correct installation of jackets and cables for brakes and derailleurs

Cyclists pay a lot of attention to what grade or level the derailleurs and brakes are on their bike. Only the most experienced know that all the charm of the work of professional equipment can be nullified due to improper installation of cables and shirts. At the same time, even the simplest derailleurs and brakes will work quite well if the cables and shirts are expertly installed.

The role in this situation is played by the very friction with which we have been fighting for half an article. It is this that significantly impairs the operation of switches and brakes. Let me make an analogy. The level of the player is not particularly important, but high-quality headphones can both increase the pleasure of listening to your favorite songs, and completely cross it out in the case of using cheap plastics, even with the top model of the player.

When laying your shirt, remember that the fewer bends, the easier and clearer the shifting will be. The remaining bends should be as smooth as possible. At the same time, too long shirts do not need to be used. This is not practical, as they can cling to branches, sticks, posts and other obstacles.

It is not difficult to choose the optimal length of the shirt from the shifter to the first stop on the frame. We measure out such a piece so that when the steering wheel is turned 90 degrees, there is no tension on the shirt, and with a larger angle of rotation, it does. That is, you need to find a kind of line.

Shirts are held under grips around the head tube, that is, from the right shifter, the shirt follows an arc to the left side of the frame, and from the left to the starboard side. This ensures the smoothest bend possible. We lay brake shirts according to the same principle.

Uncompressed Switch Shirts

Progress does not stand still, new designs appear that require different approaches to ensuring their work. When index shifting systems appeared. shifters familiar to us all. it turned out that the already well-established design of a conventional spiral jacket did not provide the required shifting accuracy.

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The reason for this is that the length of the shirt can change when bent. This does not apply to the brakes, although it still happens that the rear brake, when the steering wheel is completely turned out, reacts to a change in the length of the shirt. But it is impossible to turn the steering wheel to such a large angle while driving! Shifters, on the other hand, react painfully to small changes in shirt length.

Shimano engineers found a way out. They developed a new shirt design, which is now widely copied by other manufacturers. The wires in such shirts do not roll into a spiral, but are a tube formed from parallel steel filaments. Together they stick only to the plastic applied both outside and inside.

Uncompressed shirts, due to their design, maintain a constant length when bent, which provides an extremely accurate connection of the shifters to the switches. And on a straight line, and with a turned steering wheel, and when bumping on bumps, the shifters work equally clearly.

The weak points of uncompressed shirts include their relatively low strength. They can withstand the loads from the shifters without problems, but they are not recommended for brakes. There, the efforts are much higher, so the shirt is easy to bend and even tear.

Bicycle cables and shirts. everything you need to know

Even with the highest grade derailleurs and brakes on the bike, crafted with state-of-the-art technology from super lightweight and mega-strong materials, the engineering work can be canceled out by poor cable and shirt choices.

Shifting precision and braking efficiency will be lost on the way from shifter to derailleur and from brake lever to caliper. Also, the correct installation of the cables and shirts affects the operation. But first things first.

Just in case. suddenly, who does not know. I will explain: a cable is a strong “thread” woven from steel. It is used to transmit power when shifting gears and braking in mechanical braking systems.

The shirt is a rigid casing that changes the direction of the cable and protects it. Shirts are made of flexible steel, often coiled. Shirts end with special tips.

Both of these parts are equally needed, equally important. they cannot work without each other. To reduce weight, the one-piece shirt on many frames is replaced by a set of multiple sections. This is possible thanks to the use of shirt holders attached to the frame or fork. They represent the cylinder into which the shirt is inserted. Also, there is a small hole or slot through which only the cable is threaded.

The frame in this case plays the role of a shirt, providing the necessary tension to the cable. In places of bends, a “bare” cable cannot pass, only on straight sections. Therefore, “pieces” of shirts are used wherever it is necessary to change the direction of the cable.

Regular spiral shirt

The design of the jacket, in addition to the steel spiral, also includes a plastic tube inside this spiral and, again, a plastic shell on the outside. Such a coating is needed to protect against moisture, and it also allows you not to scratch the paint. Appearance wins too.

A conventional shirt is a construction of spiral-woven steel wires. Their advantage is that they do not shrink due to a dense curl. But they are very stretched, which is not good, although not critical.

In the olden days, grease had to be used to prevent excessive friction, as the cable moved straight along the coiled wire. Nowadays, a plastic tube is laid between the spiral and the cable, which significantly reduces the friction of metal surfaces. In the most advanced systems, the cable itself has a special coating.

Which brake from which side?

It just so happened that the rear brake lever is installed on the side of the bike, on which side of the road it should move according to the rules of the road. We have right-hand traffic, respectively, the brake lever should be on the right.

It is not known exactly why this is so. Most likely, this follows from those considerations so that the cyclist has the opportunity to keep his main (right. most of the right-handers) hand on the handlebars for more effective, in which case, braking.

This procedure is based on the incorrect assumption that the rear brake is the main brake. Any experienced cyclist or motorcyclist (by the way, on motorcycles, the front brake control is located just on the right; on the left. the clutch handle) mainly uses the front brake, since it is much more effective than the rear one: the inertia of the bicycle puts additional load on the front wheel, improving grip and, accordingly. increasing the deceleration power. On cars, by the way, the brake balance is also changed in favor of the front.

Uncompressed shirts

This type of shirt is cut with special cutting pliers, whose blades have a round notch just under the shirt. By squeezing the nippers, you cut the shirt without breaking. The good news is that the end of the shirt turns out to be straight, so you don’t need to process it. If there is no cutter, you can “call for help” an angle grinder with a fine abrasive disc. It is advisable to clean the hole after this cutting method.

Tip: Before cutting, first bend the shirt piece to the desired angle. The fact is that when bending, the length of the parallel wires changes, and the end will turn out to be oblique if you cut a straight shirt. Cutting a pre-curved shirt will save you the hassle of flattening the end of the shirt.

Jacket cutting and end finishing

If the ends of the jacket are cut incorrectly or not processed enough, the cable will move in it with increased friction, which will negatively affect the operation of the switches. If you buy a set of shirts and cables, then most likely you will not have to cut them yourself, since the sizes have already been selected by the manufacturer and almost always coincide with the ones needed by the cyclist. But if the shirt is bought by length, that is, 1-2 meters are measured for you, then you will have to cut it into pieces on your own.

Lubrication of the cables

The question often arises: do you need to lubricate the cables before putting them into a shirt? If these are “fancy” cables with a Teflon or nylon coating, or just very high quality, then there is no need to lubricate them. Manufacturer’s recommendation. Lubrication can even hurt. After collecting the dirt on itself after a while, it will erase all the efforts of the engineers. Another disadvantage of using lubricant is that it slows down the movement of the cable.

If you have to ride in wet conditions, then using a small amount of lubricant will still be useful in order to prevent rusting. Spotlight. shirt loop that runs from the feather to the rear derailleur.

Jacket cutting and end finishing

If the ends of the jacket are cut incorrectly or not processed enough, the cable will move in it with increased friction, which will negatively affect the operation of the switches. If you buy a set of shirts and cables, then most likely you will not have to cut them yourself, since the sizes have already been selected by the manufacturer and almost always coincide with the ones needed by the cyclist. But if the shirt is bought by length, that is, 1-2 meters are measured for you, then you will have to cut it into pieces on your own.

Shirt tips

The tips are metal (most often nickel-plated brass) or plastic tips for the ends of the shirt. Their goal is to ensure a secure connection of the shirt to its holder.

This is by no means a useless thing, so wearing them is a must. Sellers often forget to give tips along with the shirt, so do not lose sight, remind him if you did not give.

Correct installation of jackets and cables for brakes and derailleurs

Cyclists pay a lot of attention to what grade or level the derailleurs and brakes are on their bike. Only the most experienced know that all the charm of the work of professional equipment can be nullified due to improper installation of cables and shirts. At the same time, even the simplest derailleurs and brakes will work quite well if the cables and shirts are expertly installed.

The role in this situation is played by the very friction with which we have been fighting for half an article. It is this that significantly impairs the operation of switches and brakes. Let me make an analogy. The level of the player is not particularly important, but high-quality headphones can both increase the pleasure of listening to your favorite songs, and completely cross it out in the case of using cheap plastics, even with the top model of the player.

When laying your shirt, remember that the fewer bends, the easier and clearer the shifting will be. The remaining bends should be as smooth as possible. At the same time, too long shirts do not need to be used. This is not practical, as they can cling to branches, sticks, posts and other obstacles.

It is not difficult to choose the optimal length of the shirt from the shifter to the first stop on the frame. We measure out such a piece so that when the steering wheel is turned 90 degrees, there is no tension on the shirt, and with a larger angle of rotation, it does. That is, you need to find a kind of line.

Shirts are held under grips around the head tube, that is, from the right shifter, the shirt follows an arc to the left side of the frame, and from the left to the starboard side. This ensures the smoothest bend possible. We lay brake shirts according to the same principle.

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Uncompressed shirts

This type of shirt is cut with special cutting pliers, whose blades have a round notch just under the shirt. By squeezing the nippers, you cut your shirt without breaking. The good news is that the end of the shirt turns out to be straight, so you don’t need to process it. If there is no cutter, you can “call for help” an angle grinder with a fine abrasive disc. It is advisable to clean the hole after this cutting method.

Tip: Before cutting, first bend the shirt piece to the desired angle. The fact is that when bending, the length of the parallel wires changes, and the end will turn out to be oblique if you cut a straight shirt. Cutting a pre-curved shirt will save you the hassle of flattening the end of the shirt.

Uncompressed Switch Shirts

Progress does not stand still, new designs appear that require different approaches to ensuring their work. When index shifting systems appeared. shifters familiar to us all. it turned out that the already well-established design of a conventional spiral jacket did not provide the required shifting accuracy.

The reason for this is that the length of the shirt can change when bent. This does not apply to the brakes, although it still happens that the rear brake, when the steering wheel is completely turned out, reacts to a change in the length of the shirt. But it is impossible to turn the steering wheel to such a large angle while driving! Shifters, on the other hand, react painfully to small changes in shirt length.

Shimano engineers found a way out. They developed a new shirt design, which is now widely copied by other manufacturers. The wires in such shirts do not roll into a spiral, but are a tube formed from parallel steel filaments. Together they stick only to the plastic applied both outside and inside.

Uncompressed shirts, due to their design, maintain a constant length when bent, which provides an extremely accurate connection of the shifters to the switches. And on a straight line, and with a turned steering wheel, and when bumping on bumps, the shifters work equally clearly.

The weak points of uncompressed shirts include their relatively low strength. They can withstand the loads from the shifters without problems, but they are not recommended for brakes. There, the efforts are much higher, so the shirt is easy to bend and even tear.

Bicycle cables and shirts. everything you need to know

Even with the highest grade derailleurs and brakes on the bike, crafted with state-of-the-art technology from super lightweight and mega-strong materials, the engineering work can be canceled out by poor cable and shirt choices.

Shifting precision and braking efficiency will be lost on the way from shifter to derailleur and from brake lever to caliper. Also, the correct installation of the cables and shirts affects the operation. But first things first.

Just in case. suddenly, who does not know. I will explain: a cable is a strong “thread” woven from steel. It is used to transmit power when shifting gears and braking in mechanical braking systems.

The shirt is a rigid casing that changes the direction of the cable and protects it. Shirts are made of flexible steel, often coiled. Shirts end with special tips.

Both of these parts are equally needed, equally important. they cannot work without each other. To reduce weight, the one-piece shirt on many frames is replaced by a set of multiple sections. This is possible thanks to the use of shirt holders attached to the frame or fork. They represent the cylinder into which the shirt is inserted. Also, there is a small hole or slot through which only the cable is threaded.

The frame in this case plays the role of a shirt, providing the necessary tension to the cable. In places of bends, a “bare” cable cannot pass, only on straight sections. Therefore, “pieces” of shirts are used wherever it is necessary to change the direction of the cable.

Calcium oils

Calcium-based oils are usually yellow or green in color. Such lubricants adhere well to metal parts, so they are washed off for a long time with water. Examples of lubricants with calcium are domestic Solidol, Uniol. They should be used for wheel bearings, pedal ball bearings, brake levers and other parts of the bike that are often exposed to water.

That’s just, in no case should the hub with the brake mechanism be lubricated with grease and other thick substances. If the hub brakes, due to the inexperience of the cyclist, were lubricated with thick grease, they must be washed with kerosene and dripped with liquid oil.

Calcium greases can be used to coat all metals to protect against corrosion, since the reactivity of calcium is very low compared to lithium.

The disadvantage of calcium greases is a narrow, in comparison with lithium, temperature range at which they save their properties. from 30 ° C to 50 ° C.

Universal

As stated above, it is great because it is suitable for a variety of riding conditions. both wet and dry, so you can save money using one tool in any weather. However, the ability to repel dust in such bicycle lubricants is lower than that of “dry” ones, and the ability to adhere to the chain when exposed to water is worse than that of “wet” ones. But for amateur short-distance or infrequent arrivals who do not want to delve into the best options for caring for a “two-wheeled friend”, this is the best option.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain

There is a wide variety of bike chain lubricants on the market. A good bicycle lubricant should have the following qualities:

  • Do not attract dust particles;
  • Be resistant to moisture;
  • It is good to penetrate the videos;
  • Hold on to parts for a long time, without drying out, but also without flowing out.

In general, all lubricants can be divided into two broad categories:

  • For use in dry weather. These products contain Teflon, which provides protection against dust build-up and short-term exposure to moisture. After getting a bicycle treated with such a lubricant in the rain, you need to immediately wipe the transmission, wipe it, lubricate it and wipe it off. Such greases are universal.
  • For conditions with high humidity. In the base, synthetic silicone oils are used, and paraffin is added to some. They protect the chain from moisture and dirt, but are not recommended for use in dry weather due to the fat content of the compound. Suitable for use in autumn or spring, participation in competitions in bad weather conditions.

Thickened lubricants are also used. Such products have a liquid consistency when applied to a chain. However, after they become viscous, which is caused by the evaporation of the thickener. Further, we will dwell on each of the types in more detail.

Lithium oils

Typically, this type of oil is red or yellow in color. Lithium compounds present in the composition reduce friction between elements and increase the temperature range at which the grease retains its properties

Caution should be exercised when handling the aluminum surfaces of a bicycle, because, when interacting, a lithium-based product destroys this material. The price category of such oils is affordable

How often to lubricate

All these procedures, excluding manipulations with the chain and fork legs, should be carried out no more than once a season. In general, it shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours of clean time, but you will know that the rubbing parts of the bike are completely intact. It is also a good idea to walk with grease on the bearings if there is a long journey ahead.

The bike is ready, now look in the closet, if you have any clothes for the cold spring weather, because at such a time you can get sick in no time. I have prepared for you a small selection of inexpensive, but high-quality cycling clothing, I recommend you look.

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Carriage lubrication

In modern bicycles, there are fewer and fewer components that require lubrication. For example, it is no longer necessary to lubricate the carriage. its bearings are hidden in cartridges

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But unfortunately, these cartridges are not always reliably protected from dirt and water, so attention to rubbing parts is necessary.

As for the carriage, the most unpretentious type, in my opinion, was the “square”, square taper. a non-separable cartridge with bearings and axle assembly. This unit was very cheap, and it traveled 5-15 thousand kilometers, depending on the conditions, and few people thought to open it for the purpose of lubrication.

Newer standards for integrated carriages, for example, Shimanov’s Hollowtech, in theory, should also not require maintenance, but in reality, their cartridge bearings begin to crunch after a while off-road driving.

Officially, you need to change the carriage here, but in fact, you can pry off the caps that cover the balls with something sharp, see that the inside is full of dirt and traces of the rusting process that has begun and, after cleaning, thoroughly lubricate.

The frequency of this procedure depends on the specific carriage and riding conditions, but it is better to do this for prevention, while nothing crunches or creaks, for example, after an active flying season.