DIY bike stand

bike, stand

DIY bike stand

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Do-it-yourself bike rack

There was a need to take up bicycles. Adjust switches, brakes. In general, the planned TO. In my area I could not find bicycle workshops, go to the usual hangout place for bicycle masters. Sokolniki. far away. By car with two bicycles crap. On its own, even more crap.

In short, what’s so complicated about it? All these settings can be done by yourself. You just need to hang the rear wheel.

Two bicycles eager to be tackled

Two one and a half meter pieces of reinforcement 10.

Using a homemade bending machine, we do. once. Due to the imperfection of the machine, I had to tinker with such a double bend.

Next, I bend the tops of the arcs. Here it took a long time and stubbornly to adjust the correct angles in two planes. There were no drawings, everything is done by eye. It was necessary that these folds in the final product were strictly vertical.

I bend the deflection at the bases so that it stands on 4 points, and not on 2 strips.

Installation of the bike is due to the lugs clinging to the trunk. This was the most versatile setup for two different bikes. It was not possible to fasten for the nut and eccentric, too different seats.

Posted fine. The fixation is dead, no bouncing or shifting.

But what if the bike is without a trunk? Well these two are always with trunks.

I reduce the width of the ears. This makes it easier to insert where needed.

Everything is ready for renovation. I will not paint.

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Do it yourself as we do, do it better than us!


Recently I read an interesting article about how to make a machine for repair with your own hands using pipes, a corner, and welding.

I want to share my version of a machine for repairing a bicycle from a pipe, an angle, four bolts and a stem.

Of the tools you will need: a drill, a hacksaw for metal, half an hour.

The bike will be attached to the stem using the seatpost.

At the dacha, just such a machine was made by me. Completely efficient and compact design. Easy to disassemble and fit into the closet until better times.

Screenshots from 3D Inventor and AutoCAD drawing.

I will add live photos to the topic later (when I get to the dacha).

1.Steel angle 30×4. half a meter (price 6 UAH in Budmena)

Steel pipe 1 meter long and 25-30mm in diameter (suitable from the old cornice). price 15-20 UAH.

The removal is old, bought at a flea market, under the steering wheel 31.5mm. (price 5-20 UAH) such as this

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Total 20-45 UAH. (It cost me 10 hryvnyas for a take-out. Everything else was my own)

-We drill a couple of holes in the wall with a drill for M8 (the machine will be mounted on the wall), and drive anchor bolts into these holes

-We bend the pipe at 90 degrees (carefully with a hammer), and drill two holes in the pipe, at the same distance as in the wall.

-Drill two more holes in the pipe to screw the corner, as shown in the picture above.

You can attach the bike to the seatpost and do repairs, adjustments, etc.

You need to wind electrical tape around the seatpost so as not to scratch.

I made my machine in two passes. First, I made it entirely from a 50×5 corner, a short pipe and an extension.

A huge and massive structure turned out. Spent two days on this. The corner is thick, it is difficult to cut with a hacksaw and it is difficult to drill.

During the manufacturing process, the idea arose to modify the machine. As a result, I assembled such a simple and functional miracle.

Just in case, I post a drawing of my machine in AutoCAD. Side view without extension.

The tool for making a machine tool needs high quality. Quality drills, one thin one to drill a hole,

another thick M8. And one drill bit with a victorious tip, for holes in the wall.

I recommend using only high quality drills. Cheap drills do not drill a steel corner and pipe and only spoil the nerves.

To cut off a corner, you need a hacksaw for metal and a cloth. I also recommend using either Soviet or Branded foreign.

Cheap hacksaws for 20-40 UAH. do not hold the canvas and break often.

P. S. From the remains of the Corner and the pipe, you can quickly make a horizontal bar room. See photo below

The one on top, the usual horizontal bar from the 30×4 corner, the one below. horizontal bar / bars from the corner 50×5

I made 4 such horizontal bars and gave them all to my friends. Very robust designs. and most importantly cheap and do it yourself.

Making a rack

Bike frame support bracket

Making brackets for fastening a bicycle to a rack is, at first glance, the most laborious operation. But actually. there is nothing difficult here.

The upper support is made from a tee. The end part of the tee is cut to the radius of the pipe and glued to pvc glue.

For gluing the support, a tee cut in half was used.

The bottom support is made from a cross. A piece of tubing with diameters of 2 inches for pvc or 50-63 for PPR is glued to the crosspiece. Length

Authorization on the site

How can you quickly and easily make a bike repair rack made of PVC or polypropylene pipes with your own hands?

Lovers of cyclists who have to repair or maintain a bike know. how hard it is to do it without a special lifting rack to fix the bike at a comfortable height during repairs.

Professional stands are expensive, but in the meantime, you can make a simple homemade product, the materials for which will be the remnants of pvc or plastic pipes, for example, after repair.

Rack for repairing a bicycle made of plastic pipes

Assembling the support legs and crossbars

Here I think everything is clear to everyone at once, soldering and gluing pipes. one of the simplest operations.

Tubing sizes are listed above in the material list.

To maintain alignment when gluing or soldering. can be marked on pipe and fittings.

Materials and tools

Diameter of pipes and fittings (PVC 1 1/2 PPR 40)

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  • Pipe 38 cm long. 4 pcs. (for the base)
  • Tube 90 cm long. 2 pcs. (for legs)
  • Pipe 41 cm long. 1 pc. (bottom support)
  • Pipe 130 cm long. 1 pc. (retractable support)
  • Pipe (PVC 2 “PPR 50-63) 8 cm. 1 pc. (For support)
  • Tee. 3 pcs.
  • Angle 90 degrees. 2 pcs.
  • Plug. 3 pcs.
  • Crosspiece. 1 PC.
  • adhesive for PVC pipes
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  • pipe cutter;
  • roulette;
  • chisels or engraver;
  • pencil;
  • file;
  • sandpaper.

Making supports for a bicycle frame

After the stand is glued or soldered. We carry out finishing and adjustment to the bike frame.

We solder pipes with 2 corners, with 2 tees. don’t forget about stubs.

We cut a hole for the lower carriage with the help of an engraver.

Do not forget to adjust the gap between the mount of the lower support and the bicycle sprocket.

After all adjustments. bike repair rack ready.

The design is not without flaws. but the main thing, as they say, is the idea, if anyone has any wishes and suggestions. add to Комментарии и мнения владельцев.

Bicycle repair stand Add to Wish List 1

I used boards for the table of different species: birch, pine, aspen, but it is best to take solid types of wood, for example birch, because the table and two benches are designed for 6 people, that is, the structure must withstand high loads.

The advantage of this table is that it compactly folds into a bench with a back and back into a table with two benches, it takes up little space when folded.

And so, let’s look at what exactly is needed to make a transformer table?

board 30×80 mm of different species (it is better to take birch boards) 2. metal corners 3. self-tapping screws for wood 4. carpentry glue or liquid nails 5. varnish 6. stain 7. M12 bolts 8. nut 9. washer 10. nails

hacksaw 2. electric screwdriver 3. drill 4. hammer 5. ruler 6. pencil 7. tape measure 8. protractor 9. angle 10. brush

Step-by-step instructions for creating a do-it-yourself transforming table.

As mentioned above, the author first built a gazebo at his summer cottage and decided to acquire garden furniture.

After a long search on the Internet for a suitable drawing, I got to work, first of all I drew the templates of the legs right on the floor, you can also use a sheet of plywood.

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bike, stand

Then he cuts the boards according to the size, the author used different types of wood: aspen, pine, birch, but it is best to take hard wood. Please pay attention! There will be two benches, namely an internal and an external one. First of all, the master makes an outdoor bench, he indicated all the detailed dimensions to us directly on the photographs, which is very convenient to note. The height of the legs is 440 mm, the width of the spacing of the legs at the bottom of 400 mm is very good for the stability of the bench. Important point! The length of the inner cross member is 150 mm, once again the cross member is located inside.

The length of the outer bench is 1380 mm, all workpieces should be carefully sanded before assembly and be sure to chamfer so that the surface is smooth, even, as they say “Without a hitch”

The bench turns out to be simple, and the master does the fastening with the help of self-tapping screws for wood, carpentry glue and, for greater reliability, adds metal corners, since the structure must be extremely durable.

So, go ahead) Now you need to assemble the Internal Bench Pay attention! The height of the legs on both benches should be exactly the same, but the cross member that secures the legs is taken out and its length is accordingly increased to 400 mm, the length of the upper bar is 350 mm where at a distance of 40 mm from the edge a hole is drilled for an M12 bolt and drilled to sink the bolt head into the cavity of the board, so that nothing protrudes. The author indicated all the required dimensions directly on the photo.

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The length of the bench is 1440 mm, but in each individual case the dimensions may vary, because everyone makes for themselves, but as a standard we use the dimensions provided by the master.

After both benches are ready, you need to try them on and one should fit into the other with a small gap (see photo)

That is, two benches folded should form one whole.

This is actually what should happen in the end.

We figured out a little with the benches, now we turn to consideration of the further actions of the author, namely the manufacture of brackets from a bar. The angle of connection of two bars should be of the order of 100-105 0 (see photo) where the bar “BUT” is responsible for the width of the countertop, and the timber “B” this is the height from the top of the bench to the table top.

The author indicated all the required dimensions on the photos.

In a bar “B” a hole is drilled for an M12 bolt and reamed to sink the head into the cavity of the wood.

After that, the resulting brackets should be connected to the inner bench, put a washer at the junction so that there is no pairing.

The head of the bolt is recessed into the bore hole.

Same thing on the opposite side.

In general, in this way, 2 brackets are fixed that are responsible for the height and width of the tabletop.

Then you should align both brackets.

But now the most interesting begins)) you need to connect the tabletop with an external bench, this is done using a straight bar, its dimensions are shown in the photo.

These bars need to be made 2 pieces, the author struggled for a long time to get the exact size in the fitting process, so there may be errors in each individual case. To begin with, the master drove nails along the edges of the slats and with the help of them made markings, that is, he drove a nail so that it sticks out a little on the other side and made a mark, and then drilled a hole for an M12 bolt

Everything must first be carefully adjusted, and then calmly drill, as they say “Seven times measure cut once”.

On this bar, it is imperative to make a limiter so that the tabletop does not part, for example, from the author it looks like this.

That is, when unfolding, it will fix the tabletop in an even position and will not give further movement.

As you can see, everything is quite simple, a piece of board is cut at a certain angle and attached to the bar using 2 self-tapping screws.

For complete symmetry on the second plank, everything is done the same.

This is actually what happens as a result of the author’s work.

This transforming table is compactly placed in the corner of the gazebo in its folded state.

Actually, what happens is that the tabletop turns into a back, and the two benches are connected into a single whole by inserting into each other.

And if necessary, set the table and arrange “Feast by the mountain” just pull the bench and the table unfolds.

The indisputable advantages of the transforming table are, of course, its compactness.