DIY Bicycle Wheel Spoke

Table of Contents

How to properly assemble a bicycle wheel. Detailed instructions, tips for balancing, many photos.

The wheel is the part of the bike that is in direct contact with the ground. And since the wheel also sometimes meets curbs, stones and other irregularities, sooner or later the rim will have to be changed. You have to go to the workshop and, having paid a rather large sum, get a well-assembled and balanced wheel. Meanwhile, you can assemble a wheel yourself, especially since hardly anyone wants to pay a third of the price of a bicycle for assembling a Kama or Salyut wheel.

So, to assemble a wheel, we need: spokes with nipples, a rim, a hub and a spoke wrench. It is also desirable to have a screwdriver, but you can do without it.

This article describes how to assemble a wheel into three crosses (each spoke intersects with three others). the most common method. Although it is possible to collect in two crosses and without crosses at all (in the sun). The more crosses a wheel has, the more torsionally stiff and heavier it is. The wheel in the sun is lighter and tougher under impact, but it is impossible to assemble the rear wheel or use a disc brake in this case. the load on the rim and hub flange will increase dramatically.

First you need to choose a rim, hub and spokes.

It is clear that the number of spoke holes in the rim, hub and the number of spokes must match. For your first wheel, it is better to use a new hub, spokes and rim, since in this case cleanliness of the threads on the spokes is guaranteed, that is, there are no problems with screwing in the nipples, as well as with wheel balancing.

However, at present, it is necessary to choose not only the length of the needles, but also their brand and model. If you can use inexpensive knitting needles from little-known manufacturers for riding around the house, then for extreme riding good spokes are even more important than good rims and bushings, although it is also better not to save on them. The best quality knitting needles are produced by DT Swiss and Ritchey. The black spokes look nice, but the DT champion Yask spokes cost 75 cents for one, versus 25 cents for the silver DT champion. Whether to pay three times more for beauty is your business. But stretched knitting needles and knitting needles with variable thickness are really better than others. The first is tougher than usual, the second is lighter, and not at the expense of strength.

Now a little about how to build a solid and beautiful wheel and how to maintain good tone (imagine, real cyclists are very sensitive to it). From an aesthetic point of view, a wheel is correct, the inscriptions on the rims of which are readable from the right side of the bicycle, and on the hubs from the saddle. Also, some mechanics assemble the wheels so that the inscriptions on the hubs can be read through the nipple hole. There is no practical sense in all this, but if you want to abide by all the rules, then why not. On the contrary, the correct placement of the crosses is very important, especially when using inexpensive rims. The fact is that all rims have a weak point. this is the joint. It is often invisible from the outside of the rim, but from the inside it is usually easy to find.

The joint should be under two crosses, which will hold it together. This article discusses just such an assembly option in which the last rule will be observed.

You should pay attention to the cleanliness of the holes for the spokes in the bushings and, if necessary, clean them so that dirt does not get on the threads of the spokes and there is no difficulty in screwing the nipples.

Lubricate the spokes threads to facilitate assembly.

We insert one spoke into the hole in the left flange of the hub and into the hole on the rim, located to the left of the nipple (the rim is located with the left side towards the collector). We fix the spoke with a nipple (see photo 2).

We insert the next spoke through one hole in the flange and, counting three holes in the rim, insert it into the fourth.

We continue the process until you get what is shown in photo 4.

We turn the wheel with the right side towards us and insert the spoke into the hole in the rim, which is currently located to the right of the very first spoke.

We continue to spoke the right side of the wheel in the same way as the left.

Of course, the holes containing the spokes on the left side should be considered empty. The result of the work done is in photo 6.

Turn the bushing clockwise relative to the rim and insert the next spoke from the inside,

we thread it so that it passes over two knitting needles and under the third (those same “three crosses”, photo 8.9).

By inserting the remaining knitting needles in this way, we complete the assembly. The result can be seen on any bike or in photo 10.

After all the spokes are in place, you can start balancing. Balancing is carried out by pulling the spokes with a special key

or a screwdriver on the rim side.

There are three types of defects.

EIGHT. the wheel, when rotating, moves so that the rim is not in the same plane constantly.

EGG. wheel beating up and down when spinning.

UMBRELLA. constant displacement of the wheel to the right or left relative to the hub.

All of the above defects are corrected by loosening the spokes from the bending side and pulling up from the opposite. It is important to remember that when the tension of one spoke changes, the tension of the others changes, and all the needles are involved in correcting one or another defect. To gradually reduce the defect “to naught”, you need a wheel straightening machine. You can use a bicycle instead of a machine. If your bike has V-break rim brake mounts, it couldn’t be easier. By removing the brake,

put on a clothespin on one of the pins (photo 14,15)

and, moving it to the edge of the rim, we rotate the wheel. Having thus found the place of the defect and having adjusted the tension of the spokes as needed, we repeat the operation. Thus, you can straighten a figure eight or an egg. The umbrella can be easily straightened by eye.

So, you can put the wheel on the bike and go. Just do not forget to inspect the wheel afterwards and correct new defects if they appear. And henceforth, be careful and monitor the pressure in the chambers. it is better to pump a little than to correct the wheel or assemble it again.

Photos.

Bushing, rim, spokes are matched. 2. The first nipple is locked. 3. The second nipple is fixed in the fourth hole from the first. 4. The first stage of work has been completed. 5. Turn the wheel around and insert the first spoke on the other side of the hub. 6. We continue the assembly until the completion of the second stage. 7. We begin the third stage of the assembly. 8. Hook a knitting needle so that it goes over two knitting needles. 9. and under the third. 10. The third stage of the assembly is completed. 11. Pre-balancing of the wheel with a nipple wrench from the inside of the rim. 12. or with a screwdriver from the outside. 13. For final balancing, the brake must be removed. 14 Putting a clothespin on one of the brake pins. So we define the eight. 15 Moving the edge of the clothespin to the bottom of the wheel rim, we find the place of the beating up and down.

Anton ATAMAS, Krasnogorsk, Moscow region CAM 8 2014 sam@master-sam.ru altay-krylov@yandex.ru

Causes of wheel deformation

There may be several reasons due to which the wheel bends considerably:

  • This is, of course, the weight of the cyclist, which puts stress on the wheels day in and day out. Since a person’s weight can be different, then the load, respectively, is also different.
  • Harsh braking of the bike can put additional stress on the wheel spokes.
  • Sharp turns in the path of a cyclist can also cause deformation.
  • Uneven terrain on which the bike rides often leads to problems with the wheels.
  • A hard hit or fall is likely to lead to the so-called eight.
  • And in the end, just loose spokes will lead to nothing more than wheel deformations.

These problems are not so terrible and can be solved by re-spacing the wheels. It is best if the user knows the assembly of the bike and can handle it on their own, because no one knows where the problem may overtake. And, of course, in any service center, experienced specialists will provide a service for any type of repositioning.

The main types of wheel spacing

There are two main types of knitting:

  • Radial.
  • Tangential.

There are several more names that are refinements of the pattern resulting from the spokes of the wheel:

  • Mixed.
  • Twisted needles.

Features of radial lacing

Experienced specialists use this type of lacing mainly for the front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less subject to stress from the pedals and brakes. But, despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why, with radial lacing, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend the optimal number of spokes 32.

It is worth noting that with this method of lacing, it does not play a big role where the spoke head is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inward of the hub flanges, and outward.

Features of tangential lacing

This spoke perfectly withstands all the stresses that arise during driving. At the same time, there is one caveat: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is because this arrangement distributes the load evenly without causing any particular damage to the bike.

Tangential spoke lacing is ideal for rear wheels, including discs. They are always loaded with pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable design is the three crosses. This drawing has proven its strength and reliability over time and tests.

How to properly re-spoke a bicycle wheel. DIY bicycle wheel re-spacing step by step instructions

The whole process of re-spacing can, in principle, be divided into three stages:

  • Determining the Right Needle Length.
  • Installation.
  • Tension adjustment.

The correct calculation of the length of the spoke is calculated with a special very complex formula. But now there are special programs on the Internet that will quickly calculate the length that is suitable for a given bicycle. The Lexapskov calculator is very popular. Users claim that this program is very easy to use and at the same time quite accurate in calculations.

Installation is a rather long and laborious process:

  • It is recommended to lubricate the thread of each spoke with oil or grease. This is for easy rotation of the nipples.
  • The next step is to distribute the needles into four equal groups.
  • One group of spokes must be tucked into the flange away from you, and the other towards you. At the same time, experts advise starting with the one that is directed from itself.
  • The rim must be kept in your lap for easy lacing.
  • After refueling the first group, you need to put on the nipple, while fixing the first spoke well on the rim.
  • And, counting from the first spoke, three holes, and insert into the fourth.
  • If everything is done correctly, then there will be one empty hole between the spokes on the flange, and three holes on the rim.
  • Further, the rim is turned over and work continues.
  • Take the spoke and run it so that it is parallel to the hub axis to the opposite flange.
  • Be sure to make sure that the spoke rests strictly between the holes, after which it is inserted into the left one.
  • Thus, all the spokes defined in the second group are located.
  • Next, turn the wheel again with the right flange towards you and begin to introduce the next spoke.
  • The spoke is threaded through a hole in the flange, no matter which one, but from the inside.
  • In this case, the spoke must intersect with the three spokes previously installed on the same flange.
  • Next, you will have to bend the spoke a little so that it can pass behind the cross spoke.
  • It is very important that between the needles after three crosses there is one hole, which is already occupied.
  • All other spokes are installed the same way.
  • At this stage, it is easy to find an error: if the spoke does not reach the desired hole and the nipple cannot screw in.

Spoke tension stage

  • To do this, it is recommended to tighten all nipples at an equal number of revolutions.
  • In this case, the needles are absolutely free, but the degree of their tension is.
  • Before stretching, you can bend the knitting needles slightly with your hands to the flange itself so that they are smoother.
  • You need to pull the knitting needles evenly and slowly.
  • If defects in shape appear, you need to slowly remove them separately.
  • In order to remove the egg, you first need to understand exactly where the top point on the rim is. If the vertex coincides with one of the knitting needles, then this knitting needle should be pulled up one full turn, and the neighboring ones. by half a turn each. And if the top is between the spokes, then you should tighten them by half a turn and that’s it.
  • When the so-called umbrella appears, it is recommended that all the needles be tightened by half a turn from the problem side.

Blitz Tips

  • Carefully select the parts and tools needed to re-match the wheel.
  • Carry out all calculations for the length of the spokes and recheck them for accuracy.
  • Strictly follow the instructions for overspitting.
  • If you find an error, it’s best to start over.
  • You need to tighten the knitting needles alternately.
  • Pulling deviations should be removed in turn in all planes.
  • Do not overtighten the knitting needles. The fact is that this can damage both the nipple and the rim.
  • If you find overtightened knitting needles, it is worth weakening not only them, but also the neighboring.
  • In this case, the needles should not be too loose. These spokes will break easily while riding.
  • After tightening the spokes, always check the setting.
  • A couple of months after re-spacing the wheel, you need to check the tension.

Disassembly, cleaning / lubrication

How do I remove the rear wheel hub on my bike for cleaning and lubrication? The following procedure is required:

  • the stopper opens;
  • washers with bearings are removed;
  • troubleshooting is carried out by examining the surface of the bearings: worn out elements must be replaced, the rest are cleaned with a solvent;
  • the axis is removed;
  • inside the case is cleaned with a soft cloth, all elements are lubricated (special attention must be paid to the bearings).

How to assemble a bicycle rear wheel hub? Assembling the rear wheel of a mountain bike or any other bike is carried out in the reverse order. When installing parts inside the case, you must first put grease on its walls.

Important! When tightening, it is necessary to avoid overtightening, otherwise it may jam and excessive wear of the structure during operation.

The rear wheel is then replaced. How to do this is shown in the video.

Before proceeding to disassemble the rear wheel of a bicycle to repair the hub, you must clearly understand the order of these actions. Otherwise, the situation will only get worse. If you are not 100% confident in your own abilities, watch the video, which will explain everything in detail.

Service

To keep the bike mechanisms in good condition, you need to periodically service it. For the rear wheel, similar work is done as follows:

  • the body is tightened;
  • defective bearings are replaced;
  • mechanisms are lubricated;
  • adjustable brake pads.

Despite its unpretentiousness, the rear wheel, with prolonged use without proper maintenance, will become unusable, which will require its repair. In addition, the rear wheel must be constantly adjusted to make the ride comfortable.

One of the most practical and healthy means of transport is the bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you do not know how to repair at least minor breakdowns.

In such cases, it is simply necessary to have such skills as attention to detail and accuracy, since they will help you to repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.

Bicycle rear hub and its device

One of the important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

A hub is an element of a wheel that is attached to a bicycle frame, namely drop points. This is the central part of the wheel, allowing it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of such elements as:

  • Lock-nut.
  • Washer.
  • Cone.

Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other

One of the reasons for dividing rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear hubs are divided into:

  • Without brake.
  • With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a brake mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about a hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that the pedals must be pressed in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts need to be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

  • Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
  • Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different. from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

When to service the rear hub

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is better to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than the front hub.

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It is necessary to perform maintenance in such cases:

  • If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or rocking.
  • Backlash.
  • If the bearings crunch.
  • Poor rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the above signs of “illness” of your bike and use it for a long time if available, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for looseness and that the bearings are not too tight.

Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care.

First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

If any part is damaged, even the smallest scratches, they should be replaced. Next, you need to pull out the axle, clean the body from dirt with a soft dry cloth, and then start lubricating the parts. We do this as we put the parts in their places.

How to assemble a rear bike hub?

After lubrication, the sleeve must be reassembled. To properly assemble the rear hub, you must adhere to the following rules:

  • We insert the axis so as not to confuse which side is the right side of the axis, which is fixed tightly. The axis is adjusted with the left cone.
  • Next, put the left cone on the axle until it stops.
  • We put on the washers.
  • We screw on the lock nut.
  • Adjusting the bearings.

Rear wheel hub repair. Step-by-step instruction

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:

  • Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
  • Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
  • Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
  • Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

  • After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
  • Remove the hub axle. First, we remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
  • Checking details for faults.
  • We replace the broken part.
  • We put all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and the locknut.

Causes of breakdowns

Bicycle wheel breakage occurs for various reasons. There can be a large number of them.

The main ones are:

  • Insufficient or no bushing maintenance.
  • Loose bushing (backlash).
  • Poor bushing parts.
  • Wear.
  • Padding the cone.

Thus, to ensure the long life of your bike, you should devote a certain amount of time to it. The basis of a bike’s long-term service is maintenance. You can do this yourself, with your own hands. The main thing in this is to observe safety precautions and carefully approach the matter, since every detail is important in the hub mechanism.

To service the bushing, it is necessary to remove all parts, lubricate, first removing all old grease. Then carefully re-install all parts in the reverse order. In this case, you should carefully consider the tightening of the locknuts and flare nut so as not to overtighten them. In addition, there are different types of rear hubs.

With frequent care of the bike parts, it will serve you for a long time and will not require repair after its first use.

Rating: 1.6 12 votes

The wheel is the part of the bike that is in direct contact with the ground. And since the wheel also sometimes meets curbs, stones and other irregularities, sooner or later the rim will have to be changed. You have to go to the workshop and, having paid a rather large sum, get a well-assembled and balanced wheel. Meanwhile, you can assemble a wheel yourself, especially since hardly anyone wants to pay a third of the price of a bicycle for assembling a Kama or Salyut wheel.

So, to assemble a wheel, we need: spokes with nipples, a rim, a hub and a spoke wrench. It is also desirable to have a screwdriver, but you can do without it.

This article describes how to assemble a wheel into three crosses (each spoke intersects with three others). the most common method. Although it is possible to collect in two crosses and without crosses at all (in the sun). The more crosses a wheel has, the more torsionally stiff and heavier it is. The wheel in the sun is lighter and tougher under impact, but it is impossible to assemble the rear wheel or use a disc brake in this case. the load on the rim and hub flange will increase dramatically.

First you need to choose a rim, hub and spokes.

It is clear that the number of spoke holes in the rim, hub and the number of spokes must match. For your first wheel, it is better to use a new hub, spokes and rim, since in this case cleanliness of the threads on the spokes is guaranteed, that is, there are no problems with screwing in the nipples, as well as with wheel balancing.

However, at present, it is necessary to choose not only the length of the needles, but also their brand and model. If you can use inexpensive knitting needles from little-known manufacturers for riding around the house, then for extreme riding good spokes are even more important than good rims and bushings, although it is also better not to save on them. The best quality knitting needles are produced by DT Swiss and Ritchey. The black spokes look nice, but the DT champion Yask spokes cost 75 cents for one, versus 25 cents for the silver DT champion. Whether to pay three times more for beauty is your business. But stretched knitting needles and knitting needles with variable thickness are really better than others. The first is tougher than usual, the second is lighter, and not at the expense of strength.

Now a little about how to build a solid and beautiful wheel and how to maintain good tone (imagine, real cyclists are very sensitive to it). From an aesthetic point of view, a wheel is correct, the inscriptions on the rims of which are readable from the right side of the bicycle, and on the hubs from the saddle. Also, some mechanics assemble the wheels so that the inscriptions on the hubs can be read through the nipple hole. There is no practical sense in all this, but if you want to abide by all the rules, then why not. On the contrary, the correct placement of the crosses is very important, especially when using inexpensive rims. The fact is that all rims have a weak point. this is the joint. It is often invisible from the outside of the rim, but from the inside it is usually easy to find.

The joint should be under two crosses, which will hold it together. This article discusses just such an assembly option in which the last rule will be observed.

You should pay attention to the cleanliness of the holes for the spokes in the bushings and, if necessary, clean them so that dirt does not get on the threads of the spokes and there is no difficulty in screwing the nipples.

Lubricate the spokes threads to facilitate assembly.

We insert one spoke into the hole in the left flange of the hub and into the hole on the rim, located to the left of the nipple (the rim is located with the left side towards the collector). We fix the spoke with a nipple (see photo 2).

We insert the next spoke through one hole in the flange and, counting three holes in the rim, insert it into the fourth.

We continue the process until you get what is shown in photo 4.

We turn the wheel with the right side towards us and insert the spoke into the hole in the rim, which is currently located to the right of the very first spoke.

We continue to spoke the right side of the wheel in the same way as the left.

Of course, the holes containing the spokes on the left side should be considered empty. The result of the work done is in photo 6.

Turn the bushing clockwise relative to the rim and insert the next spoke from the inside,

We thread it so that it passes over two knitting needles and under the third (those same “three crosses”, photo 8.9).

By inserting the remaining knitting needles in this way, we complete the assembly. The result can be seen on any bike or in photo 10.

After all the spokes are in place, you can start balancing. Balancing is carried out by pulling the spokes with a special key

Or with a screwdriver on the rim side.

There are three types of defects.

EIGHT. the wheel, when rotating, moves so that the rim is not in the same plane constantly.

EGG. wheel beating up and down when spinning.

UMBRELLA. constant displacement of the wheel to the right or left relative to the hub.

All of the above defects are corrected by loosening the spokes from the bending side and pulling up from the opposite. It is important to remember that when the tension of one spoke changes, the tension of the others changes, and all the needles are involved in correcting one or another defect. To gradually reduce the defect “to naught”, you need a wheel straightening machine. You can use a bicycle instead of a machine. If your bike has V-break rim brake mounts, it couldn’t be easier. By removing the brake,

We put on a clothespin on one of the pins (photo 14,15)

And, moving it to the edge of the rim, we rotate the wheel. Having thus found the place of the defect and having adjusted the tension of the spokes as needed, we repeat the operation. Thus, you can straighten a figure eight or an egg. The umbrella can be easily straightened by eye.

So, you can put the wheel on the bike and go. Just do not forget to inspect the wheel afterwards and correct new defects if they appear. And henceforth, be careful and monitor the pressure in the chambers. it is better to pump a little than to correct the wheel or assemble it again.

Photos.

or with a screwdriver outside.

Anton ATAMAS, Krasnogorsk, Moscow region CAM 8 2014 [email protected] [email protected]

Perhaps all fans of cycling will sooner or later face the need to reposition the wheels. This is due to the fact that the wheel can lose its original shape and, as a consequence, make further use of the bike impossible.

Causes of wheel deformation

There may be several reasons due to which the wheel bends considerably:

  • This is, of course, the weight of the cyclist, which puts stress on the wheels day in and day out. Since a person’s weight can be different, then the load, respectively, is also different.
  • Harsh braking of the bike can put additional stress on the wheel spokes.
  • Sharp turns in the path of a cyclist can also cause deformation.
  • Uneven terrain on which the bike rides often leads to problems with the wheels.
  • A hard hit or fall is likely to lead to the so-called eight.
  • And in the end, just loose spokes will lead to nothing more than wheel deformations.

These problems are not so terrible and can be solved by re-spacing the wheels. It is best if the user knows the assembly of the bike and can handle it on their own, because no one knows where the problem may overtake. And, of course, in any service center, experienced specialists will provide a service for any type of repositioning.

The main types of wheel spacing

There are two main types of knitting:

  • Radial.
  • Tangential.

There are several more names that are refinements of the pattern resulting from the spokes of the wheel:

  • Mixed.
  • Twisted needles.

The main difference between radial and cross or tangential spokes is that the radial spokes do not intersect with each other.

Features of radial lacing

Experienced specialists use this type of lacing mainly for the front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less subject to stress from the pedals and brakes. But, despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why, with radial lacing, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend the optimal number of spokes 32.

Such a lacing is not very reliable and therefore of the advantages of this type we can only name the appearance of the wheel, thanks to which it got the name “sun”.

It is worth noting that with this method of lacing, it does not play a big role where the spoke head is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inward of the hub flanges, and outward.

Features of tangential lacing

This spoke perfectly withstands all the stresses that arise during driving. At the same time, there is one caveat: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is because this arrangement distributes the load evenly without causing any particular damage to the bike.

Tangential spoke lacing is ideal for rear wheels, including discs. They are always loaded with pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable design is the three crosses. This drawing has proven its strength and reliability over time and tests.

In mixed spoke lacing, the center spoke in relation to the rim is as in the “sun” spoke, and the side spokes are crossed.

How to properly re-spoke a bicycle wheel

It is best for an experienced mechanic to help for the first time, who will clearly explain and show all the stages of re-fitting.

It is important to prepare the necessary tools in advance. For such work, you may need a wheel straightening machine, a special spoke wrench, a device for measuring spoke tension.

DIY bicycle wheel re-spacing step by step instructions

The whole process of re-spacing can, in principle, be divided into three stages:

  • Determining the Right Needle Length.
  • Installation.
  • Tension adjustment.

The correct calculation of the length of the spoke is calculated with a special very complex formula. But now there are special programs on the Internet that will quickly calculate the length that is suitable for a given bicycle. The Lexapskov calculator is very popular. Users claim that this program is very easy to use and at the same time quite accurate in calculations.

Installation is a rather long and laborious process:

  • It is recommended to lubricate the thread of each spoke with oil or grease. This is for easy rotation of the nipples.
  • The next step is to distribute the needles into four equal groups.
  • One group of spokes must be tucked into the flange away from you, and the other towards you. At the same time, experts advise starting with the one that is directed from itself.
  • The rim must be kept in your lap for easy lacing.
  • After refueling the first group, you need to put on the nipple, while fixing the first spoke well on the rim.
  • And, counting from the first spoke, three holes, and insert into the fourth.
  • If everything is done correctly, then there will be one empty hole between the spokes on the flange, and three holes on the rim.
  • Further, the rim is turned over and work continues.
  • Take the spoke and run it so that it is parallel to the hub axis to the opposite flange.
  • Be sure to make sure that the spoke rests strictly between the holes, after which it is inserted into the left one.
  • Thus, all the spokes defined in the second group are located.
  • Next, turn the wheel again with the right flange towards you and begin to introduce the next spoke.
  • The spoke is threaded through a hole in the flange, no matter which one, but from the inside.
  • In this case, the spoke must intersect with the three spokes previously installed on the same flange.
  • Next, you will have to bend the spoke a little so that it can pass behind the cross spoke.
  • It is very important that between the needles after three crosses there is one hole, which is already occupied.
  • All other spokes are installed the same way.
  • At this stage, it is easy to find an error: if the spoke does not reach the desired hole and the nipple cannot screw in.

Spoke tensioning, wheel shaping, broaching and lapping

In front of me lay a bunch of spokes, a bag of nipples, a smooth new rim and a bushing that I had hand-picked. Somewhere nearby there was still a cassette, but there was no place for it in the upcoming operation.

Wheel padding, i.e. placing the spokes in the hub and the holes of the rim in the correct order, I did it slowly, dipping the threaded ends of the spokes into the lithol and looking at the manual. In the first pass, I positioned the 8 pulling spokes from the cassette side so that the pulling spokes pass from the inside of the flange and the heads are outside. So Sheldon Brown suggested:

But my sleeve suggested doing it differently when stuffing, I noticed traces from the last wheel. depressions on the flange, where the pulling (I understood this from the direction of the tracks) spokes were previously located. They used to be located just the opposite. the spokes outside the flange, the heads inside:

Once again I read a couple of relevant paragraphs of the manual, and Sheldon said that you can collect it anyway, the result (with straight hands) will not be worse, just his version is more convenient. Well, we are not looking for easy ways In fact, I was motivated by the following consideration: mechanical stresses during the operation of the hub already in a certain way changed the structure of the metal in the flange, the aluminum “sat down” and “shrank” as it was needed, and if I put the spokes differently, then the metal structure will be during the wheel run change again under a completely different load, which, given the deplorable fatigue strength of aluminum, will ultimately reduce the reliability of the bushing. So we sacrifice convenience for reliability, and I re-spoke 8 cassette side pulls as the hub suggested. Turning the wheel over, I saw the same marks from the past spokes, again asking me to spoke the outside of the flange. So I, of course, did.

When filling the first 16 spokes, everything is very simple. the bushing still rotates freely, and it is easy to pull the spoke through the rim, it is convenient to wind the nipples. The wheel doesn’t look like a wheel yet. But when you start to insert the leading knitting needles, the bushing rotates to the maximum clockwise, and takes a befitting position. Now you cannot bring the spoke through the rim (if you calculated the length correctly, of course; if you manage to pull it out, you did something wrong!), And you cannot screw the nipple with your fingers. A small flat screwdriver came in handy. The tightening force is practically zero, so I used a very small screwdriver, much smaller than the slot of the nipple, thanks to which the tip of the screwdriver “caught” the center of the slot well.

By inserting the first 8 lead spokes from the side of the cassette, I got what Sheldon was talking about. If the pulling points are located outside the flange, then the leading ones have to be bent strongly in order to push them into the right places, at first I was afraid that I would break the spokes. But it turned out that the bend of the 262 mm spoke along a radius of about 20-25 cm is not at all scary to her, I think she would have withstood a larger bend. True, there is a permanent deformation. the spoke does not look perfectly flat, like new, but I was sure that this would not affect the tension in any way.

On each spoke, both pulling and leading, I screwed a nipple so that half of the thread remained outside. At the same time, all the spokes were still absolutely free and not taut, the bushing dangled, but the wheel had already taken on the form of a wheel:

After that, in the same way, I installed the last 8 leading spokes, on the side where there is no cassette.

Now you need to give the spokes a primary tension so that they stop dangling. I sequentially tightened each nipple so that a quarter of the thread remained outside. at the end of the wheel I already had to apply a certain amount of effort to turn the nipple. The bushing stopped dangling, and the wheel could be scrolled around the axis, admiring the huge eight

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Now I armed myself with a screwdriver, since it became difficult to twist with my hands, and, setting the weakest tightening torque, I began to tighten the nipple until the spoke thread completely went into the nipple. On some nipples (

20%) the screwdriver torque limiter has already worked. Having passed the whole wheel in this way, I increased the tightening torque by two more steps, and again tightened all 32 nipples. The wheel began to tinkle slightly, and the soft wire spokes finally became tight spokes However, the huge eight has not disappeared anywhere. Then I did not dare to twist without control, so as not to spoil the rim, which means it was time to install the wheel in the machine.

In such a simple way, I measured the eight, and turning the wheel over. an umbrella. To edit the problem areas of the figure eight I marked with a marker and twisted the knitting needles in the right direction. After installing the wheel in the machine, I tightened each spoke by half a turn, then adjusted the eights, pulled the whole wheel again by a quarter of a turn, adjusted. while (1).

After 3-4 iterations of pulling up and straightening, for the first time I pressed the knitting needles with my hands so that they lay down as needed, looked at the egg. The egg remained within 2 mm, the figure eight. 2.3 mm, the umbrella of the wheel at first seemed to me to be zero, but I just crookedly inserted the axle of the hub into the machine at the next turn of the wheel The umbrella’s departure initially came out within 6 mm of the cassette. This is not surprising, since the tension of the spokes at the cassette and opposite ones has been approximately equal until now.

I spent about 2 hours in the evening for stuffing the wheel and several passes of tightening and straightening, after which I decided that I was tired and enough. Sheldon Brown said: tired. stop it, otherwise it will be cocoa.

The next day I started straightening my umbrella. Once I pulled up all the spokes of the cassette by a quarter of a turn, then I pulled them up again by half a turn and at the same time loosened the opposite spokes by a quarter, straightened two eights on the right and left, and in the third pass I twisted the spokes of the cassette by another quarter, without weakening the opposite ones (i.e. increasing the total tension of the wheel). In this case, the umbrella decreased from 6 mm to 2. Then I spent some more time editing the eights, reducing them to 2 mm. The egg remained. Initially, I measured its amplitude at 2-3 mm, after editing the egg shrank to 1 mm and I was tired of editing it.

All this took about an hour, after which I left the wheel alone and did other things as a rest.

On the same day, a couple of hours later, I returned to the machine again and made a second run of broaching the spokes, this time not with my hands, but with a metal lever, laying it between the spokes in the places of the third cross and bending the spokes without frenzy. As predicted by the manual, there were creaks and crackles, and the eights spread again. I again ruled the wheel, stretching out the spokes two more times, after which I pulled up all the spokes by another quarter from the side of the system, while receiving an umbrella departure of 1 mm, an eight 1.5 and an egg 1. On this, in principle, I counted the actual assembly wheel over. Hooray! In total, according to my calculations, the assembly took no more than 6 hours, taking into account the considerable time that I spent on measuring the hub, rim and calculating the spokes. To be honest, I expected at least 8-10 hours of work, but the specified parameters of the geometry deviations suited me. I took the 1-2mm tolerance limits from the rear wheel of a bike, which went about 1000 km on the rim brakes and worked as well as I liked Of course, wheels are assembled in workshops more accurately, but it is quite possible (and assembly robots. for sure) do not waste time broaching the spokes and re-edits, so I consider my results not much worse.

I could not check the uniformity of the tension of the spokes otherwise than by sound. Judging by the tone of the ringing, the cassette umbrella was indeed taut more than the opposite (who would have thought?), And within the umbrella the sound of the spokes differed by a maximum of half a tone or a little more. I don’t know what the difference is in newtons of tension, but I didn’t want to touch the wheel after numerous corrections.

Do-it-yourself bicycle wheel re-spacing. we cover in detail

Most cyclists eventually face the problem of wheel spacing. If the necessary procedure is not carried out in time, the wheel will forever lose its round shape and it will be impossible to return it back. In this article, we will consider the algorithm for this action with detailed instructions.

How to assemble?

The wheel assembly process is quite slow and requires great care and perseverance. You should work with the spokes very carefully, besides, it is worthwhile to closely monitor the process of their installation, because the wrong position of even one of the spokes can greatly affect the operation of the entire wheel, and also lead to breakage of this spoke.

Most often, the wheel spacing has to be done in several stages, because it is impossible to have time to do absolutely everything at once. In addition, in this case, irritation often arises from the fact that this process is too slow and laborious.

It is very important to follow several rules during the wheel assembly process. To prevent the spokes from damaging the rim, do not tighten the spokes very tightly, as this creates an increased load on all parts, including the hub and even the nipples. At the same time, if the spokes are too loose, they can break while riding. With the correct tuning of the wheel, it is necessary to loosen tight spokes or tighten weak ones, and also do not forget about the neighboring ones, since in a large number of cases they also need to be edited.

Causes of wheel deformation

There may be several reasons due to which the wheel bends considerably:

  • This is, of course, the weight of the cyclist, which puts stress on the wheels day in and day out. Since a person’s weight can be different, then the load, respectively, is also different.
  • Harsh braking of the bike can put additional stress on the wheel spokes.
  • Sharp turns in the path of a cyclist can also cause deformation.
  • Uneven terrain on which the bike rides often leads to problems with the wheels.
  • A hard hit or fall is likely to lead to the so-called eight.
  • And in the end, just loose spokes will lead to nothing more than wheel deformations.

These problems are not so terrible and can be solved by re-spacing the wheels. It is best if the user knows the assembly of the bike and can handle it on their own, because no one knows where the problem may overtake. And, of course, in any service center, experienced specialists will provide a service for any type of repositioning.

The main types of wheel spacing

There are two main types of knitting:

  • Radial.
  • Tangential.

There are several more names that are refinements of the pattern resulting from the spokes of the wheel:

  • Mixed.
  • Twisted needles.

The main difference between radial and cross or tangential spokes is that the radial spokes do not intersect with each other.

Features of radial lacing

Experienced specialists use this type of lacing mainly for the front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less subject to stress from the pedals and brakes. But, despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why, with radial lacing, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend the optimal number of spokes 32.

Such a lacing is not very reliable and therefore of the advantages of this type we can only name the appearance of the wheel, thanks to which it got the name “sun”.

It is worth noting that with this method of lacing, it does not play a big role where the spoke head is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inward of the hub flanges, and outward.

Features of tangential lacing

This spoke perfectly withstands all the stresses that arise during driving. At the same time, there is one caveat: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is because this arrangement distributes the load evenly without causing any particular damage to the bike.

Tangential spoke lacing is ideal for rear wheels, including discs. They are always loaded with pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable design is the three crosses. This drawing has proven its strength and reliability over time and tests.

In mixed spoke lacing, the center spoke in relation to the rim is as in the “sun” spoke, and the side spokes are crossed.

Bicycle wheel tuning process.

Now it’s time to answer the question. how to correctly tighten the spokes on a bicycle. Here, too, you need to accurately perform certain stages, strictly adhering to the described instructions.

  • To avoid the risk of deformation of the torsion of the spokes, the wheels should be fixed one by one in a special machine designed for centering. The centering line lends itself to the danger of misalignment, therefore the firmness of the wheel fixation in the machine is very important.
  • The adjustment process begins by tightening the set of short spokes, starting from the tire nipple. The tightening process takes place in the amount of a full turn. If you are guided in relation to the movement of the bike, then the front wheel is tightened on the left side, and the rear wheel on the right. Then we transfer the actions to the opposite side.
  • A bicycle is subject to the laws of physics when it moves. Align the spoke head to avoid rubbing against the socket. Friction can occur when the spoke itself vibrates. The alignment procedure consists in alternating careful hammer blows using a blunt punch on the head in the area of ​​the flange.
  • According to the scheme described above, we tighten a couple of turns on the side of the short spokes, then according to the location of the long.
  • The wheel can be removed from the machine. The end of the sleeve will now serve as the base for installing the umbrella. The installation process starts with short pieces and covers both sides of the rim. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the axial length of the device. Gaps need to be removed at key points:
  • right side of the rim;
  • left side of the rim;
  • sleeve, namely end.

After that, go to the side of the long needles.

  • If the indicators of the device indicate a violation of the equal distance between the sleeve and the rim, we begin the correction process. In this regard, the nipples on the curved side must be tightened by half a turn. The adjustment vector is oriented in the direction of the long spokes. The positivity of the result is again checked using an umbrella.
  • How is the tension adjusted? It is necessary to bring the test leads of the machine to one point, so that one of them starts to cling to the rim. When straightening the ellipse, each nipple is twisted 25% of one turn. Pull up an equal number of knitting needles on the left and right sides.
  • Mark the radial runout zone with white tape. The spokes are tightened in the clockwise direction, with an orientation to the outer rim section. We make a quarter turn. If the beating area covers only five spokes, be sure to tighten the sixth. Otherwise, you get a “eight” wheel.
  • The fact that the appearance of an eight is possible is indicated by the fact of beating on the side of the rim and probe. Straightening is obtained by loosening the nipples from the beating section. We also stretch the nipples on the other side. The rim should stop rubbing against the dipstick.
  • Excessive stretching will damage both the rim and the hub. We carry out a method of checking the tension. Compression of two crossed spokes is done with medium force. The math center should not be shifted more than a centimeter.
  • After carrying out all the broaches, it is necessary to check the concentricity of the wheel. If necessary, we perform straightening. The main thing is not to tighten the knitting needles.
  • The last action will be to crimp the wheel, preventing the appearance of an eight or an ellipse. Placing the wheel on a stable stand, we load it with our own weight. Then. we repeat the check of concentricity and beating.

What is needed?

Parts required for wheel spacing:

  • Sleeve. Quality bushings are usually made of aluminum. Good hubs usually have thick flanges and countersunk spoke holes;
  • 36 spitz Good ones are made from stainless steel or titanium. Most cyclists prefer 36-spoke wheels, as this is considered the optimum number in terms of durability. The size of the spokes should be selected taking into account the type of spokes;
  • Rim. It is best to choose an aluminum rim. This material makes the wheel stronger and lighter, moreover, aluminum does not rust, which increases the service life of the rim;
  • Nipple. Nipples are made of nickel-plated bronze or aluminum. The main thing is not to use aluminum nipples with rims of the same material, because in this case they can stick to each other, since chemical welding will occur.

Necessary tools for correct wheel lacing:

  • Small flat screwdriver;
  • Wheel stand;
  • Spoke key;
  • Wheel straightening machine;
  • Umbrella measuring devices.

Before you start directly spacing the wheel, you must first prepare the parts for work. To do this, treat the spokes and rim holes with oil or special grease. This will allow the spokes to rotate better when twisting, and, therefore, contributes to their stronger and stronger installation, will allow them to be tightened more so that they do not dangle later.

How to properly spoke a bicycle wheel

Selecting the Right Needle Length

Selecting the right spoke length for your bike determines the functionality of the front wheel. Even more surprises are hidden in the rear rim. different speeds are fixed on it, which makes centering the spokes difficult. All components must have different lengths, depending on the angle of inclination, which must also be correctly calculated.

To calculate the length of the needles, experts recommend using calculators that will calculate all the characteristics online.

Step-by-step lacing

Do-it-yourself bicycle wheel re-spacing at the preparatory stage consists of preparing the required materials and tools:

  • rim in excellent condition;
  • knitting needles;
  • sleeve;
  • a key designed to work with knitting needles;
  • screwdriver.

When you first encounter spoke lacing, focus on the location of the holes. they are to the side. The spokes from the sleeve flange located on the right are inserted into the recesses fixed on the right side, and from the left flange. in the opposite direction. Half of the spokes can be considered basic, and the rest belongs to the tail. How to tell them apart during installation?

  • Leading components point in the direction of rotation of the wheel and are most often colored blue.
  • Tails are directed against the rotation of the rim and are painted red.

To calculate the length of the knitting needles, you can use calculators that will calculate all the characteristics online

Experts say how to properly re-spoke a wheel on a bicycle:

  • Lock the tail spoke so that it goes into the flange. It is mounted on the outside of the flange to the right and transferred to a hole located even more to the right, after the spool hole.
  • Cover the nipple, otherwise the spoke may fall out.
  • The second driven component is located in the recess of the same flange.
  • The third part goes through three recesses after the first assembled.
  • Re-spacing the front wheel of a bicycle in the next step involves turning the rim so that it is located in the foreground of the left hub flange.
  • Another set of components inserted will be the tail needles. Spin the wheel to position the spool at the top.
  • Do not lose sight of the first inserted spoke. when in the first recess in the spool, the spoke that fits the flange on the left is on the left.
  • With the tail components locked, tackle the leading ones. Rotate your bike so that the wheel is facing you with the right flange.
  • Leading ones are allowed to be inserted into different recesses, there are no clear requirements and rules here.
  • Rotate the bushing in a clockwise direction until the leading piece meets the three tail pieces.
  • Ideally, the first two should intersect with the bushing from the outside, and the third. inside. For this rule to be feasible, sometimes you have to bend the spoke slightly.

How to properly spoke a bicycle wheel is clearly shown in the video:

How to adjust the tension

To prevent the spokes from dangling, you need to tighten the nipples. It is unacceptable to twist some nipples for a couple of rotations, and others for 5-6. the spokes will not be tensioned equally. To obtain the best tension, bend the components by pressing on each spoke near the flange. Another tension is carried out after the initial tension. If the rim is adjusted correctly, the wheel will not bounce when riding the bike.

You already know how to change the spokes on the rear wheel of a bicycle, but the stretching process involves an important trick. The spokes on the right have a tighter tension than the left — just turn the nipples on the right 3 to 5 extra turns. Then screw each nipple one more rotation. Feel if there is any slack. if it is, add in turnover. When three-fourths of the wheel has been passed, it may be that the nipples are difficult to turn. Do not allow constrictions. loosen all mechanisms by one rotation.

Note that the umbrella from the rear wheel of the two-wheeled vehicle must be in the plane intersecting the center of the distance between the hub tips at the rear. If you treat this requirement carelessly, most likely, the bike will pull to turn sideways, it will not work out comfortably on such a bike.

The process of stretching the spokes has one trick. the spokes on the right are pulled tighter than the left

Having mastered how to properly spoke a bicycle wheel, you can repair the rim anytime, anywhere. Many bicycle owners hope that professional bicycle mechanics will help them out, but not all specialists do this work efficiently in order to save time, they miss some important operations. As a result, it becomes impossible to ride a bike without adjusting the wheel after a while.

Features of wheel spacing

In principle, the entire procedure described is divided into three steps.

  • Estimating the Right Needle Size.
  • Installation process.
  • Adjustment actions.

The main difficulty lies in determining the length of the spoke. It is important to apply a special and complex formula here. In order not to completely bother with this problem, you can use a special program that is easy to find on the Internet. Existing calculators will allow an ordinary user to make accurate and necessary calculations.

We’ve covered the process of properly spacing a wheel. We hope that this instruction will help you figure out the problem yourself.

Wheel lacing. Causes of wheel deformation

There may be several reasons due to which the wheel bends considerably:

  • This is, of course, the weight of the cyclist, which puts stress on the wheels day in and day out. Since a person’s weight can be different, then the load, respectively, is also different.
  • Harsh braking of the bike can put additional stress on the wheel spokes.
  • Sharp turns in the path of a cyclist can also cause deformation.
  • Uneven terrain on which the bike rides often leads to problems with the wheels.
  • A hard hit or fall is likely to lead to the so-called eight.
  • And in the end, just loose spokes will lead to nothing more than wheel deformations.

These problems are not so terrible and can be solved by re-spacing the wheels. It is best if the user knows the assembly of the bike and can handle it on their own, because no one knows where the problem may overtake. And, of course, in any service center, experienced specialists will provide a service for any type of repositioning.

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The main types of wheel spacing

There are two main types of knitting:

  • Radial.
  • Tangential.

There are several more names that are refinements of the pattern resulting from the spokes of the wheel:

  • Mixed.
  • Twisted needles.

The main difference between radial and cross or tangential spokes is that the radial spokes do not intersect with each other.

Features of radial lacing

Experienced specialists use this type of lacing mainly for the front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less subject to stress from the pedals and brakes. But, despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why, with radial lacing, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend the optimal number of spokes 32.

Such a lacing is not very reliable and therefore of the advantages of this type we can only name the appearance of the wheel, thanks to which it got the name “sun”.

It is worth noting that with this method of lacing, it does not play a big role where the spoke head is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inward of the hub flanges, and outward.

Features of tangential lacing

This spoke perfectly withstands all the stresses that arise during driving. At the same time, there is one caveat: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is because this arrangement distributes the load evenly without causing any particular damage to the bike.

Tangential spoke lacing is ideal for rear wheels, including discs. They are always loaded with pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable design is the three crosses. This drawing has proven its strength and reliability over time and tests.

In mixed spoke lacing, the center spoke in relation to the rim is as in the “sun” spoke, and the side spokes are crossed.

Disassembly, cleaning / lubrication

How do I remove the rear wheel hub on my bike for cleaning and lubrication? The following procedure is required:

the stopper opens; washers with bearings are removed; troubleshooting is carried out by examining the surface of the bearings: worn out elements must be replaced, the rest are cleaned with a solvent; the axis is removed; inside the case is cleaned with a soft cloth, all elements are lubricated (special attention must be paid to the bearings).

How to assemble a bicycle rear wheel hub? Assembling the rear wheel of a mountain bike or any other bike is carried out in the reverse order. When installing parts inside the case, you must first put grease on its walls.

Important! When tightening, it is necessary to avoid overtightening, otherwise it may jam and excessive wear of the structure during operation. After that, the rear wheel is set in place

How to do this is shown in the video.

The rear wheel is then replaced. How to do this is shown in the video.

Before proceeding to disassemble the rear wheel of a bicycle to repair the hub, you must clearly understand the order of these actions. Otherwise, the situation will only get worse. If you are not 100% confident in your own abilities, watch the video, which will explain everything in detail.

DIY bicycle wheel re-spacing step by step instructions

The whole process of re-spacing can, in principle, be divided into three stages:

  • Determining the Right Needle Length.
  • Installation.
  • Tension adjustment.

The correct calculation of the length of the spoke is calculated with a special very complex formula. But now there are special programs on the Internet that will quickly calculate the length that is suitable for a given bicycle. The Lexapskov calculator is very popular. Users claim that this program is very easy to use and at the same time quite accurate in calculations.

Installation is a rather long and laborious process:

It is recommended to lubricate the thread of each spoke with oil or grease. This is for easy rotation of the nipples. The next step is to distribute the needles into four equal groups. One group of spokes must be tucked into the flange away from you, and the other towards you

At the same time, experts advise starting with the one that is directed away from itself. The rim must be kept in your lap for easy lacing. After refueling the first group, you need to put on the nipple, while fixing the first spoke well on the rim. And, counting from the first knitting needle, three holes, and insert into the fourth. If everything is done correctly, then there will be one empty hole between the spokes on the flange, and three holes on the rim. Further, the rim is turned over and work continues. Take a spoke and run it so that it is parallel to the hub axis to the opposite flange. Be sure to ensure that the spoke rests strictly between the holes, after which it is inserted into the left one. Thus, all the needles defined in the second group are located. Next, turn the wheel again with the right flange towards you and begin to introduce the next spoke. The spoke is passed through a hole in the flange, no matter which one, but from the inside. In this case, the spoke must intersect with the three spokes previously installed on the same flange. Next, you have to bend the needle a little so that it can pass behind the cross needle. It is very important that between the needles after three crosses there is one hole, which is already occupied. All other knitting needles are installed the same way. At this stage, it is easy to find an error: if the spoke does not reach the desired hole and the nipple cannot screw in.

Rear wheel hub repair. Step-by-step instruction

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:

  • Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
  • Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
  • Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
  • Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

  • After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
  • Remove the hub axle. First, we remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
  • Checking details for faults.
  • We replace the broken part.
  • We put all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and the locknut.

Bicycle rear hub and its device

One of the important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed

The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it

A hub is an element of a wheel that is attached to a bicycle frame, namely drop points. This is the central part of the wheel, allowing it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of such elements as:

  • Lock-nut.
  • Washer.
  • Cone.

Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other

One of the reasons for dividing rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear hubs are divided into:

  • Without brake.
  • With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a brake mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about a hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that the pedals must be pressed in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts need to be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

  • Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
  • Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different. from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

Service

To keep the bike mechanisms in good condition, you need to periodically service it. For the rear wheel, similar work is done as follows:

  • the body is tightened;
  • defective bearings are replaced;
  • mechanisms are lubricated;
  • adjustable brake pads.

Despite its unpretentiousness, the rear wheel, with prolonged use without proper maintenance, will become unusable, which will require its repair. In addition, the rear wheel must be constantly adjusted to make the ride comfortable.

One of the most practical and healthy means of transport is the bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you do not know how to repair at least minor breakdowns.

In such cases, it is simply necessary to have such skills as attention to detail and accuracy, since they will help you to repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.

There are three types of defects.

EIGHT. the wheel, when rotating, moves so that the rim is not in the same plane constantly.

EGG. wheel beating up and down when spinning.

UMBRELLA. constant displacement of the wheel to the right or left relative to the hub.

All of the above defects are corrected by loosening the knitting needles from the side of the bend and pulling up from the opposite

It is important to remember that when the tension of one spoke changes, the tension of the others changes, and all the needles are involved in correcting one or another defect. To gradually reduce the defect “to naught”, you need a wheel straightening machine

bicycle, wheel, spoke

You can use a bicycle instead of a machine. If your bike has V-break rim brake mounts, it couldn’t be easier. By removing the brake,

We put on a clothespin on one of the pins (photo 14,15)

And, moving it to the edge of the rim, we rotate the wheel. Having thus found the place of the defect and having adjusted the tension of the spokes as needed, we repeat the operation. Thus, you can straighten a figure eight or an egg. The umbrella can be easily straightened by eye.

So, you can put the wheel on the bike and go. Just do not forget to inspect the wheel afterwards and correct new defects if they appear. And henceforth, be careful and monitor the pressure in the chambers. it is better to pump a little than to correct the wheel or assemble it again.

DIY bike wheel flaw straightening and lacing machine

Let’s look at how to make a bicycle wheel straightener yourself. Often, active cycling leads to many elementary defects. If the cyclist rides on flat roads, such defects can be forgotten for a long time. But what if the driving is active? So you need to know and fix the problems yourself, while making an elementary straightening machine. But what if there are no workshops for repairing such problems in your city? There is always a way out! You can make a machine for straightening bicycle wheels with your own hands.

We offer you to make an elementary bicycle wheel straightening machine yourself at home. The process of correcting on a machine can be very demanding, but adjustments can be made faster with a machine. For the independent design of the machine, the following materials and tools will be required:

  • Galvanized profile sheet 28×27. in the amount of 2 meters.
  • M5 nut screws. 12 pcs.
  • Magnets 10×1.4 mm. in the amount of 10 pieces.
  • Ordinary ruler 30 cm wide.

Our machine will be designed to straighten bicycle wheels from 10 “to 28”. The length does not matter, and the distance will be selected along the wheel axis with the adjustment of the movable right strut relative to the left. To fix the right rack under an axis of a different size, it is imperative to drill additional holes in the lower crossbar.

All parts for the machine are made of galvanized profiles. At the top of the struts, there must be slots for quick installation of the wheel. To connect the machine, you will need 12 M5 screws with nuts. The machine can be easily disassembled and assembled, it can be stored at home. Five magnets are glued to each ruler with superglue. Do the editing on the machine with the support of two rulers, which are attached to the posts with magnets. This design of the machine moves freely and the beating is monitored in two cavities. The first test moments can be done on a child’s bike. It usually takes 20 minutes for the wheel to take its perfect shape. To assemble an elementary bike straightening machine, the result will be positive.

How to re-spoke a wheel according to the rules

But it is important to understand the process itself and purchase the necessary spare parts. You should never despair

Such a laborious procedure, even if the instructions are followed, is not obtained the first time for everyone. Practical skills come with the necessary experience.

If at the initial stage, there is a mechanic or an experienced cyclist nearby. that’s just great. Practical skills are acquired over time. The second point will be a competent selection of the necessary tools. This is a straightening machine, spoke wrenches and an umbrella.

Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care. First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the locking ring and remove the washers and bearings

In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the locking ring and remove the washers and bearings

In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

If any part is damaged, even the smallest scratches, they should be replaced. Next, you need to pull out the axle, clean the body from dirt with a soft dry cloth, and then start lubricating the parts. We do this as we put the parts in their places.

How to properly assemble a bicycle wheel. Detailed instructions, tips for balancing, many photos.

The wheel is the part of the bike that is in direct contact with the ground. And since the wheel also sometimes meets curbs, stones and other irregularities, sooner or later the rim will have to be changed. You have to go to the workshop and, having paid a rather large sum, get a well-assembled and balanced wheel. Meanwhile, you can assemble a wheel yourself, especially since hardly anyone wants to pay a third of the price of a bicycle for assembling a Kama or Salyut wheel.

So, to assemble a wheel, we need: spokes with nipples, a rim, a hub and a spoke wrench. It is also desirable to have a screwdriver, but you can do without it.

This article describes how to assemble a wheel into three crosses (each spoke intersects with three others). the most common method. Although it is possible to collect in two crosses and without crosses at all (in the sun). The more crosses a wheel has, the more torsionally stiff and heavier it is. The wheel in the sun is lighter and tougher under impact, but it is impossible to assemble the rear wheel or use a disc brake in this case. the load on the rim and hub flange will increase dramatically.

First you need to choose a rim, hub and spokes.

It is clear that the number of spoke holes in the rim, hub and the number of spokes must match. For your first wheel, it is better to use a new hub, spokes and rim, since in this case cleanliness of the threads on the spokes is guaranteed, that is, there are no problems with screwing in the nipples, as well as with wheel balancing.

However, at present, it is necessary to choose not only the length of the needles, but also their brand and model. If you can use inexpensive knitting needles from little-known manufacturers for riding around the house, then for extreme riding good spokes are even more important than good rims and bushings, although it is also better not to save on them. The best quality knitting needles are produced by DT Swiss and Ritchey. The black spokes look nice, but the DT champion Yask spokes cost 75 cents for one, versus 25 cents for the silver DT champion. Whether to pay three times more for beauty is your business. But stretched knitting needles and knitting needles with variable thickness are really better than others. The first is tougher than usual, the second is lighter, and not at the expense of strength.

Now a little about how to build a solid and beautiful wheel and how to maintain good tone (imagine, real cyclists are very sensitive to it). From an aesthetic point of view, a wheel is correct, the inscriptions on the rims of which are readable from the right side of the bicycle, and on the hubs from the saddle. Also, some mechanics assemble the wheels so that the inscriptions on the hubs can be read through the nipple hole. There is no practical sense in all this, but if you want to comply with all the rules, then why not

On the contrary, the correct placement of the crosses is very important, especially when using inexpensive rims. The fact is that all rims have a weak point. this is the joint

It is often invisible from the outside of the rim, but from the inside it is usually easy to find.

The joint should be under two crosses, which will hold it together. This article discusses just such an assembly option in which the last rule will be observed.

Pay attention to the cleanliness of the holes for the spokes in the bushings and, if necessary, clean them so that dirt does not get on the threads of the spokes, and there is no difficulty in screwing the nipples. Lubricate the spokes threads to facilitate assembly

Lubricate the spokes threads to facilitate assembly.

We insert one spoke into the hole in the left flange of the hub and into the hole on the rim, located to the left of the nipple (the rim is located with the left side towards the collector). We fix the spoke with a nipple (see photo 2).

We insert the next spoke through one hole in the flange and, counting three holes in the rim, insert it into the fourth.

We continue the process until you get what is shown in photo 4.

We turn the wheel with the right side towards us and insert the spoke into the hole in the rim, which is currently located to the right of the very first spoke.

When to service the rear hub

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is better to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than the front hub.

It is necessary to perform maintenance in such cases:

  • If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or rocking.
  • Backlash.
  • If the bearings crunch.
  • Poor rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the above signs of “illness” of your bike and use it for a long time if available, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for looseness and that the bearings are not too tight.