How to disassemble the rear axle of a bicycle. Beginning of disassembling the bushing. removing the cassette retaining ring.
I usually remove the inner ring of the bearing with the locknut using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully pushing the “nose” into the spline of the outer circlip. Hold the sprockets firmly, as if trying to turn them in the direction of free play
For a right hand threaded wheel, use the same method to force the hub retaining ring to rotate counterclockwise.
The outer circlip has a right-hand thread. When working with a bicycle drivetrain, always keep the pedaling direction in mind, which always matches the tightening direction. So the sleeve usually spins counterclockwise. If the transmission is located on the right, then the rear hub will definitely have a right-hand thread.
Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike
A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.
Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.
The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:
- main stars;
- single stars, small stars;
- whip tightening the cassette mechanism.
All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!
Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.
The main components of the wheel
A standard bicycle wheel consists of several main parts:
- bushing. the central part, due to which the torque is provided. The interior of the rear hub is slightly more complex than the front. Not every bushing can be disassembled at home, some variations without special equipment and knowledge are better left untouched. And also brakes can be attached to this part;
- spokes connecting the hub to the rim;
- the rim on which the tire is mounted;
So, if the rear wheel of a bicycle needs to be repaired, or if it’s just time to service the spare parts, it is necessary to clarify the procedure that should be taken when removing the wheel.
What is the difference between a ratchet and a cassette
Ratchet is a ratchet mechanism with a threaded or slotted mounting on the sleeve. The ratchet is outside and the sprockets are completely installed. This means that the ratchet is put “on time”. when, say, small sprockets are worn out, only the worn part cannot be replaced. everything changes at once.
This type of knot was widespread in the last century, and now it can be found on a budget high-speed bike. Some of the disadvantages of the ratchet include:
- a small number of stars. from 5 to 7 speeds;
- low running resource;
- for more hardy products, the cost will be many times higher.
Although, of course, repair, or rather, non-maintainability, is the main disadvantage. Most ratchets are threaded. An unpleasant feature of this mount is jamming. It looks like this: after a certain run, it will twist on the bushing so that it will be problematic to disassemble it later.
Ratchets and cassettes differ in mounting and pullers
Now about the cassettes. In fact, this is the same ratchet, only the ratchet is hidden inside the drum. It is installed only on splines, which is why it is sometimes problematic to switch from the ratchet (if that rare spline copy was not standing). In comparison with its “brothers”, the cassette drum mechanism has a number of advantages:
- more stars. from 9 to 11 on modern models;
- the system weighs less, which means the bike as a whole, too;
- rolling resistance is noticeably less than that of a ratchet;
- the cassette is easier to remove;
- more mileage;
- you can change the asterisks individually.
The last plus, of course, is the most significant, and we emphasize it once again: changing the system completely or only one or two stars is a huge difference! Well, there is only one drawback. the initial cost is higher. However, this again negates the very advantage. the ability to repair, and not buy a new one. Should you opt for a cassette tape? Definitely yes!
Puller and key
Removing a long-established ratchet requires considerable effort. It can get stuck and rusty. Special tools must be available, which are a puller and a large adjustable or wrench.
The puller is a slotted wrench for disassembling or installing the ratchet mechanism. It is unscrewed counterclockwise using a wrench or adjustable wrench. Ratchet and cassette tools are similar but completely incompatible, do not confuse them.
The rear wheel is removed first. If the ratchet has not been removed for a long time and it is difficult to remove it with a puller, then it is better to use WD-40 grease. It is better to lubricate the threads from the inside, under the stars, and leave for several hours.
When removing, there may be a problem in the lack of effort to unscrew the stuck mechanism. This problem is solved by lengthening the tool. This can be done with a small tube. Take two bolts 6–8 cm in size and select the nuts for them. One is inserted into the hole in the puller, and the other into the hole in the handle of the adjustable wrench. We tighten with nuts. Insert a tube between the bolts. It turns out a lever with which it is much easier to rip off a stuck device.
Removing the front wheel with rim brakes
Place the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars before removing the wheel. Beforehand, all accessories. mirrors, front lights, bell, decorative elements. should be removed so that they do not interfere with work and so as not to damage them. It is advisable to put a soft cloth under the sensitive shifters to avoid damaging them under the weight of the bike.
Briefly, the front wheel is removed according to the scheme:
- Release the rim brakes.
- Loosen attachment to dropouts.
- Carefully remove the axle from the legs.
It is necessary to release the brakes in order to easily pull out the wheel and not damage the system. To do this, squeeze the connecting arch and unscrew its fastening with a hex wrench. The brakes are now free. An alternative option is to remove the pads from the brake mechanism, however, after assembling the wheel, they will have to be adjusted again.
This is how the v-brakes are released
Wheel fastening on a bicycle is presented in two versions. nuts for 15 and an eccentric. To remove the axle from the dropouts on the nuts, you will need two keys. one will act as a worker, and the other as a lock. Unscrew one nut counterclockwise while holding the opposite.
What can you use? Traditional open-end or spanner wrenches. The second option is even more convenient and easier to grab the nut. Adjustable wrenches with wide lips are not recommended for work, as they can “eat” the corners of the nuts.
With an eccentric, it is much easier. loosen the bolt and raise the locking lever. If the spring is not weak enough and the lever does not rise fully, loosen the bolt harder. Actually, removing a wheel at home is as easy as shelling pears.
In this section, the topic of removal with V-brakes was touched upon. With discs it is even easier, and even more so with singlespeeds with a kick drum on the rear hub. There is one limitation for a disc brake system with hydraulics. do not keep the bike upside down for too long, as the pipes are airy. That is, the wheel was removed and the bike was returned to its normal state during repairs or other manipulations.
The difference between a ratchet and a cassette
Do not confuse the bike ratchet with the cassette, as they are not interchangeable. Currently, the former can only be found on old and very cheap bicycles. On modern bicycles, a more advanced part is used, such as a cassette.
The main drawback of the ratchet is its incompatibility with the 15 mm diameter hollow shaft of the new QR15 standard. Loose loading from off-center sprockets can cause local bending on the hollow axis.
In a ratchet, the smallest sprocket is not smaller than with 14 teeth, and its more modern modification. a cassette. can have even smaller sprockets, with 11 or 12 teeth
On the inside of the ratchet there are ratchet pawls, on top of it an external bushing with sprockets is installed. The role of the nut holding these two parts is played by the cone, which is the working surface for the ball bearing. Inside there are two bulk bearings, each of which is assembled from balls of the same size.
The hidden part of the ratchet. the inner sleeve. is screwed onto the threaded part of the rear wheel, and to remove it, you need a special puller.
Internal ratchet bushing
How to disassemble the ratchet?
To repair the ratchet with your own hands, you need a hammer and center punch. Instead of a center punch, you will need a large nail or self-tapping screw. It is better to disassemble the device on a wheel so that you can hold it.
- The ratchet spins on the wheel. A center punch is inserted into the hole on the nut, and by turning it clockwise with a hammer, the mechanism is disassembled.
- The stars are removed with a puller and a key. There are balls inside under the nut. There is also a second ball track on the wheel.
- To prevent the balls from scattering, you must put a rag or box.
- The smallest asterisk is unscrewed counterclockwise. The rest are just filming.
Removing the ratchet from the wheel
Now you need to look at the condition of the mechanism, pawls and lubrication. Dogs wear out most often. They can be replaced. A special repair kit is made of dogs and rings. Be sure to wash the ball bearings. If the balls are black and there are frayed metal particles, then the bearings have broken. Each must be examined. If there are dents on them, then it is recommended to replace them.
Next, we collect all the parts in reverse order. The flare nut must be tightened with force, and the play for the sprockets relative to the wheel should be adjusted with inlaid, thin rings.
Thus, it is much cheaper to repair the mechanism with your own hands and does not take much time and effort. And you need to perform such actions regularly so that cycling is pleasant and safe.
What types are cassettes divided into
It is very interesting to know how the stars are fastened on the drum and to each other. The modern bike cassette is available in several versions. Each of them is good in its own way. Meet:
- solid milled,
Spacer cassettes are sprockets fastened with separate splines to the drum. For separation, plastic spacers are inserted between them. The parts have a strictly specified thickness so that the distances in the cassette between its elements are kept constant. The advantage of such a system is that they can be disassembled “to zero.” The disadvantage, however, for aluminum drums is a high torsional load, because from each star the force is transferred to the drum. On the stronger steel counterparts, this problem is not observed. In a spider-type connection, all the stars are put on a single spline. Legs are made in the form of ladders for each asterisk. Power loads are reduced, so this type of cassette should be chosen for aluminum drums. Also, compared to spacers, these systems are lighter.
On a spider, you can also change only one star
On solid milled cassettes, the entire unit is made as one piece. It is fixed on the lower star, which is the slot for the drum. Among the analogues, this is the most expensive option:
- the simplest device due to the absence of additional connections;
- high strength;
Solid Milled Transmission Cell
What about the disadvantages? Firstly, the price will justify itself only with an expensive mountain bike. And secondly, the design is very much like a ratchet. And although durability and strength were declared, no one canceled partial wear. And it is impossible to change one or two stars.
The blocky model is represented by several spiders with two or three stars on each. Small stars are inserted into the reel slot by themselves. Since they are more likely to wear out with your bike, you can replace them altogether. Other components on the blocks change immediately in pairs.
Disassembled Shimano Block Cassette
What is a ratchet?
The ratchet is a ratchet mechanism consisting of a freewheel, sprockets and a threaded ring. The design transfers rotation from the pedals to the wheel through the chain, while simultaneously allowing movement without the need to pedal. It is screwed onto the axle thread of the rear bicycle hub. If the sprockets wear out, they unscrew and change completely to new ones.
Cassette and ratchet should not be confused. In modern bicycles, they began to use a cassette. a device more advanced than a ratchet. The design consists of stars assembled together, which are put on the bushing and secured with a nut, and the holes in the middle are equipped with grooves with which it clings to the drum. There are pawls, springs and a ratchet inside the drum. It is easier to remove the cassette and replace the unusable sprockets with new ones. It can be easily dismantled in any conditions, and the removal of the ratchet is best done on a workbench. This requires not only a special tool, but also significant physical effort. The impossibility of repair is its main drawback. Plus a small number of stars and fragility.
It just works. The system has a pawl that engages the rear of the transmission mechanism, at which time a slight crackling sound is heard. From this cod comes its name. If there is no sound, it means that it will pull the chain forward when the pedals do not rotate.
Diagnostics and care:
- Tighten the wheel hub bearings. In principle, you can not remove the mechanism itself, but the bearings are easier to remove when removing the entire device, they are quite small, it is very difficult to remove them.
- Lubricate the system. Sometimes the reason for the improper operation of the bike is not only the lack of lubrication, but also its abundance.
- Replace broken dogs. The reason for repairing the transmission can be a broken pawl that does not catch the wheel mechanism, or a spring that pushes it.
- Sprocket teeth wear. The most common reason. The entire device needs to be replaced. Small diameter sprockets break most often.
- Cleaning of dirt and grass that gets clogged between the stars when riding.
Replacing the bike camera
To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.
To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.
You need to tighten very carefully so as not to damage the rim, do not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.
On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.
Bicycle hub repair and maintenance
For a successful subsequent assembly, it is better to repair the hub on the removed wheel, but without dismantling the spokes. The steps in the process are as follows:
- The cassette is removed from the axis using a special tool (puller or whip).
- Retaining ring opens.
- Washers and loose bearings (industrial bearings) are removed. The main thing is to remember the location of the parts, so that later on to make the correct assembly.
- Bearing diagnostics. Defective parts are replaced with new products. If they are not yet worn out, then they should be cleaned of dirt with a solvent.
- Complete axle removal.
- Cleaning the body from dirt. To do this, use only a soft cloth, wiping each cavity with it.
- All elements are sequentially lubricated. First, a small amount of the substance is distributed along the walls of the housing. Bearings can be more lubricated.
- The final process of repairing the rear wheel hub of a bicycle. Reassembly is performed in reverse order, including installing the stopper and tightening the fasteners.
Do not use too much force when tightening the rear wheel hub. The bike should move freely, and not barely drag.
Unscrewing a stuck ratchet
It so happens that there is not enough effort to disrupt a rattle that has been tightly tightened for several years. In this case, lengthening the key lever will help.
Many in the garage will find an iron pipe or bar about 60 cm long.Then you can simply put this pipe on the handle of an adjustable wrench or the tooth of an open-end tool, or do something tricky and assemble a two-arm lever.
- Take a couple of short, 6-8 cm long bolts M8 or M10 and pick up two corresponding nuts for them.
- Insert one of the bolts into the hole in the ratchet puller, and thread the other through the hole in the handle of the adjustable wrench. These bolts should be secured with nuts to hold them in place.
- We insert the pipe between two bolts: the puller installed in its place and the adjustable wrench put on it. Now all that remains is to push the resulting lever down to disrupt the ratchet.
Usually, with a lever from 50 to 60 cm, any rattle is unscrewed in almost one motion.
Disassembling a bicycle wheel for troubleshooting
Camera puncture is the most common problem cyclists face. To remove the tire to replace the inner tube, do the following:
- Remove the wheel from the bike fork as described above.
- We release the remaining air from the chamber.
- After removing the cap from the nipple, push it a little inside the rim.
- On the opposite side, two plastic assemblies need to pick up the tire bead.
- Hold the bead of the tire with another fitting until it comes off the rim.
- We take out the camera.
Having glued the puncture or taking a spare whole camera, we assemble the tire according to the following scheme:
- Slightly inflate the camera in order to straighten it.
- Putting the camera on the tire.
- Looking at the arrows, choose the correct direction of the tire and pass the nipple through the hole in the rim.
- Install the beads of the tire in place. in the rim. The action is carried out from the nipple. Using monitors will simplify the procedure.
- We pull out the nipple tube and check that the beads of the tire are tightly joined to the rim.
- Putting the wheel on the bike fork.
A loose bicycle wheel, backlash visible to the naked eye, difficult rotation, squeak are symptoms that speak volumes about the time to inspect the hub. Disassembling the hub is somewhat more difficult than skirting the wheel, but it is also feasible directly by the cyclist himself according to the following scheme:
Dismantle the axle from the dropouts. Using two 17 mm wrenches, loosen the nut securing the sleeve. We fix the right nut, and twist the left one counterclockwise. Having hooked up with a 14 mm wrench, unscrew the cone by hand
Carefully remove the axle from the opposite side. We take out the left bearing from the housing, and remove the right one from the cone
Further, we carry out inspection and lubrication of parts, cleaning the case from dirt and dust. Then we assemble the wheel:
- Install the right bearing on the cone with the same side.
- We place the axis in the bushing and mount the left bearing.
- We screw in the cone so that the surface only touches the bearing, but does not fix it.
- We fix the sleeve with a nut.
- Putting the wheel back on the dropouts and securing.
The light and soundless rotation of the bicycle wheel after its energetic spin indicates that everything has been done correctly. It is necessary to center the front wheel of the bike by twisting or loosening the cone, if the bushing “moves” along the axis or there is a difficult rotation.
Assembling a bicycle wheel
The bicycle is versatile, very pleasant to use, it is able not only to raise the mood from walks, but also to have a beneficial effect on the body. But he also requires some attention. And in order for it to serve longer, it is important to learn some actions on your own so that you can solve some problems yourself.
When a person faces the problem of re-fitting, or replacing the camera, then the skill of self-parsing and removing the wheel will come in handy. You can, of course, contact a specialist who can repair a bicycle wheel, but, firstly, it takes too long, and secondly, you will have to pay money for it. But all the work on replacing parts, disassembling and assembling them can be done independently. It will be not only more profitable, but also in quality, most often, practically does not differ.
Removing the wheel
Disc view of the brake device.
Rim brake system.
“The front wheel is much easier and more convenient to remove than the rear one!” This is what many people say, who are not very familiar with the structure of some bicycle models. So, in order to remove the wheels, you must first determine the type of brake device. The disc type of the brake device does not require any additional work, but if there is a rim system on the bike, then it should be released. This is usually done by simply squeezing on both sides of the pads and pulling the arc out of them.
Further actions can be divided into stages:
The rear wheel is removed in the same way, despite the seeming complexity.
Observing the order that will be the reverse of removal, the wheel can just as easily be assembled. And if everything is clear with the front wheel, then when installing the rear wheel, it is important to ensure that the chain is fully and correctly put on the teeth of the sprocket.
If everything is done correctly, but the wheel still does not fit into the bosom, then it is worth inspecting it and the bike. It is possible that the fork is bent, or there is a figure eight bending the metal disc. Then all the problems must be eliminated and only after that proceed to installation.
Bicycle wheels should be disassembled at regular intervals over several months. It is important to do this for self-service, which will allow you to identify possible breakdowns in advance, replace parts in a timely manner and avoid unexpected failure of this vehicle. Most often, it is the bicycle hub that is the part that needs to be checked regularly for performance. There are two types of them, according to which their analysis will differ:
Cassette remover (whip).
Disassembling a wheel removed from a bicycle begins with a procedure in which the spokes are somewhat weakened. This requires a nipple wrench. The tape of the same name is removed from the rim groove, then the nipples are unscrewed, and the spokes are removed completely. Wheel assembly should be carried out in stages:
- The spokes (¼ part) are inserted so that their heads are outside the wheel. In this case, you should skip one hole at a time. It is important to remember that if the flange is countersunk on one side, then the spoke is installed in a plane along its surface.
- The threaded ring at the spoke should be passed through the rim hole. All of them are slightly offset from the rim to the sides. The needles are inserted through every three holes. After assembly, you can see that the inner spokes are assembled with their heads outward. they are the ones that make up a kind of basis.
- The arrangement of some of the spokes on the wheels is always slightly different. At the back, it should cross the three inner spokes. The first crossing occurs at the flange, and then twice more on the way to the rim. In the case of the front wheel, the outer spoke will cross the two inner.
Wheels play a huge role, so you should pay enough attention to them. Experts believe that a cheap bike, if you replace its wheels with better ones, will be much better than expensive and well-known brands.
In any case, repositioning is a very useful skill, since in many repair services all the necessary actions are not performed. In this case, the quality of service decreases significantly.
Some special tools can be used at this stage:
- Spoke key;
- Wheel straightening machine;
- Needle tension gauge.
Of course, it is not easy to find them for everyone, but perhaps someone will nevertheless have one or another detail. You can safely do without them, although they can significantly speed up all the work.
So, the following important stages can be distinguished:
- It is recommended to pre-lubricate the thread of the spokes together with the rim, as this will help to tighten them more tightly;
- On the rear wheel, work begins only on the threaded side of the hub. Having inserted nine spokes into the flange, it is necessary to find the hole that will be closest to the valve, insert a spoke into it. It will be key;
- Four holes are counted from it clockwise, then the spoke is inserted, the nipple is twisted. Other knitting needles (7 pieces) are attached in the same way;
- We turn the wheel with the left side, after which nine spokes should be connected to the rim in the left outer flange;
- There should be no intersection between the key and the tenth;
- The spoke heads are on the outside, especially if they are on the rear wheel;
- The needles, which are considered tensioning, or rather, their heads will be located inside. One of them should be threaded through the flange hole. The sleeve is twisted, while the other spokes must be given a tangential direction relative to the flange. The first two knitting needles from above are tensioned at the top, and under the third, it should go inward;
- When assembling, the nipples only need to be tightened slightly. Otherwise, the needles will not be able to reach the holes;
- It is better to make a uniform tension from the location of the key spoke. It is very important that the nipple is only screwed in one turn. It is allowed to make one or two more if the spoke remains too weak. If, gradually, as the tightening progresses, it becomes clear that the nipples are no longer twisting, then it will be necessary to return, unwind them all again and then tighten each one only half a turn. When the work is done, in addition, it will be possible to fit any knitting needle harder without any problems.
Throughout the work, it is important to monitor compliance with the following points:
- The figured part of the sleeve must be turned to the worker;
- To the right of the person there will be a spoke, which is near the valve hole;
- The rim is connected on the right side of the flange with both spokes;
- Three holes left unoccupied.
The wheel umbrella must always be in a plane that extends between the rear hub and the tips at least half the distance. If this is not observed, the bike will constantly try to turn to the side. If the umbrella is correct, then the distance from the brake pads to the rim will be the same when the wheel is straight and when it is turned.
At the last stage, you should deal with the shrinkage of the knitting needles. You can put pressure on them, taking the wheel in your hands, in those places where they intersect. This should be done over the entire surface. After the whole procedure, you should additionally carry out the adjustment and re-shrink. This sequence must be repeated until the crackling accompanying the action stops.
When balancing is complete, it is important to inspect the wheel. If the spokes protrude above the rim, they must be cut down. Then excess grease is removed and the wheel is completely ready for installation.