How to set up your bike’s shifters
Every cyclist sooner or later faces the problem of poor gear shifting on a bicycle.
There may be several reasons for this. damaged cables or dirty shirts, an extended chain, poorly tuned front or rear derailleurs. It is the latter circumstance that most critically affects the quality of a bicycle‘s gear shifting and can turn your ride into a continuous torment.
Many beginners trust this procedure to experienced mechanics. This is the correct approach. But over time, you realize that you need to learn how to independently make the specified setting. This will not only help to save a certain amount of money on the services of a bicycle mechanic, but will allow you to independently, at any time, adjust the speeds, ensuring the perfect gear shifting of the bicycle throughout the entire trip. This text provides specific steps that even a beginner cyclist can follow to adjust the speed on his bike.
Rear derailleur setting.
The first thing to start with the adjustment is an external examination of the rear overhang. It is necessary to make sure that the gear shift cable is securely attached and supplied, its integrity, cleanliness and no wear of the upper and lower derailleur rollers. And also, the flatness of the foot, which during the operation of the bicycle can deform when falling.
It is very easy to check the evenness of the foot. you need to look at the rear of the derailleur and make sure that the corresponding sprocket of the cassette or ratchets, as well as the upper and lower roller of the derailleur, are on the same line perpendicular to the ground. If all of the above conditions are met, you can safely proceed to setting.
It is necessary to set the chain to the minimum rear sprocket, correspondingly turning on the maximum reverse speed on the bike. For adjustment, both the front and rear cross-overs have two adjusting screws on their body, designated by the letters H and L (High and Low, respectively). Since at the beginning of the adjustment, the chain was set to the maximum gear at the rear, for adjustment you need exactly the screw with the letter H, which is responsible for adjusting the high speeds. By rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise, they achieve such a position of the switch foot so that both of its rollers are strictly in line with the smallest back sprocket. After that, you must engage the minimum reverse gear, in which the chain is on the largest sprocket at the back. And with another screw, which is designated with the letter L, make an identical adjustment before aligning the rollers with a large sprocket.
Sometimes a situation arises when, after correct and careful tuning and adjustment of the rear derailleur, a problem arises when shifting into high or low gears is poor. This is due to a strong or weak tension in the gear shift cable. This adjustment can be done in two ways. a special regulator on the rear derailleur, or a regulator on the gearshift knob (shifter). Which option is used on a particular bike depends on the level of equipment set by the manufacturer. If the chain is thrown poorly into lower gears, the tension of the cable should be increased, and if the chain is dropped to higher gears, on the contrary, it should be reduced.
There is another adjustment option on the middle and high level rear crossovers. distance of the idler roller (top) to the cassette stars (chain tensioner adjustment). It is produced as follows. The chain is installed on the largest chainring at the back and the largest at the front. In this position, the rear derailleur foot will be pulled to the maximum. And with the adjusting screw, you need to achieve a distance of approximately 5mm from the top roller to the sprocket teeth. It is at this distance that the smoothest and most precise gear changes are made. It is not worth reducing it, as there may be a risk of grazing the roller for the sprocket teeth and damage it.
Setting the front derailleur.
Before adjusting the front bumper, the first step is to make sure it is correctly positioned on the bike frame. There are two recommendations for beginners. The first is to make sure that when the largest chainring is engaged in front, its teeth are a short distance from the bend of the derailleur frame, as well as at the same distance from it. over, in no case should they touch the frame or, on the contrary, be far from it.
The second is the parallelism of the switch frame to all the stars in the horizontal plane. That is, if you look at the switch from above, then its frame should be parallel to the stars of the system.
You need to start the adjustment by setting the chain to the minimum front and maximum rear sprocket. Next, you need to unscrew the bolt that fixes the cable to the switch housing. After that, it will take its natural position and you can proceed directly to the setting. Turning the screw marked L (Low) in different directions, you need to set the gap between the chain and the switch frame in the region of 1-2 mm. It is this distance that will ensure perfect shifting, and also eliminate the possibility of chain friction on the derailleur frame during driving. After that, it is necessary to fix the shift cable with a slight interference, after making sure that it lies in the required groove in the clamping area. With the chain set to the maximum chainring and minimum sprocket, use the adjusting screw marked H to adjust the same way until the minimum clearance is found between the chain on the large chainring and the derailleur frame. If, after carrying out the above procedure, there are difficulties with the inclusion of low or high forward speeds, it is worth adjusting the tension of the shift cable, similar to setting the rear derailleur.
Having mastered both types of speed adjustment on a bicycle as quickly as possible, you will protect yourself from unpleasant surprises that may arise during the ride, having the opportunity to make the necessary adjustment at any time, spending a minimum of time and effort.
How to properly adjust the derailleur on a bike?
Before proceeding to setting the speed switch, you should understand its place in the entire drive mechanism and general settings, because, in addition to setting, the switch must be correctly set, the correct switching system must be suitable for it, and the chain must fit the stars. Problems with the switching system are not always caused by an incorrect setting, but with a poor installation or an erroneous selection of a combination of elements. In addition, by mistake, elements that do not fit each other may be placed on the bike.
Preparation for work
Speed switches are one of the most complex in terms of design, but relatively unloaded in terms of tooling elements of a bicycle. In order to set everything up, you only need a few things:
- key for 9 or a set of hexagons (depending on the manufacturer);
- replaceable cables and shirts (if replacement is needed).
The first step is to check the liner:
- Checking the cable (it must be properly closed with a jacket, it must be easy to pull and respond to the operation of the shifters).
- Checking shirts (on the surface of both the cable and shirts there should be no serious damage or obvious bends, as they will eventually lead to blocking of switching in one way or another).
- Connection (the cable must be wound and clamped in the receiver without protruding burrs and sagging places).
The second step is to install and secure the switches. This is necessary if the switch is being adjusted after it has had to be repaired or replaced. The third step is threading the chain. Before fastening the switches (the circuit must be threaded into them) or, conversely, after fastening (the circuit is closed already on the installed devices).
We check all the liners and fasteners, after which we proceed to set up.
The front derailleur usually has more travel and requires less adjustment, so they usually start with that. In addition, the readjustment here requires less precision and is easier to repeat, after the rear.
The very first thing to check on the front frame is its height. During installation, inaccuracies often occur when the switch is too far from the stars, or when it touches them. The mechanisms are imperfect and the purpose of the height adjustment is to properly adjust the frame (about 2-3 millimeters above the large star) After installation. check the distance by turning the system with the attached chain.
The second problem is both installation and configuration. The entire device must be parallel to the stars of the common frame axis. This is determined by special devices or by checking the parallelism by eye: we simply bring the bike to the line of sight so that one of the edges of the wheel, hub or other landmark is on the same line and becomes “invisible”, and we check if our chain or frame does not diverge.
In case of serious deviations, we work with the installation of the switch, you may even have to remove the device, with small ones. with special adjustment screws, if there are any on our model.
Initial checks on a rear bicycle derailleur begin with the mechanism. complex than the front, it can hide more problems in itself than can be corrected with a tweak:
- The rooster is a special attachment, and, being usually a separate part from the frame, the rooster is damaged by falls and even serious loads, therefore it is very important to check its parallelism to the frame and, in general, its integrity.
- Recoil spring. its defects are often perceived as problems with the cable jacket, as they look the same: switching on the loosening of the cable becomes problematic. Springs are usually changed along with the entire device.
- The cable feed is a secondary test, on many derailleurs, especially budget Shimano, the cable is wound into the rear derailleur from the back, creating a kind of “loop”. It is on it that damage usually appears, since this point is easy to damage when falling or driving on the grass.
Actually, this is what is usually called “switch adjustment”. this is working with High and Low limiters. The point is to keep the chain from slipping off the sprockets in extreme positions. This setting is done simultaneously on the front and rear sprockets with the (ideally) disconnected cable. Those. first, the adjustment is made, and only then a cable is wound under the screw and pressed. This increases accuracy and eliminates tensioning effects that can interfere with work.
What do you need to know? Each switch has two adjustment screws, usually marked with two letters:
- H. high or hard. “high”, the position of the chain on the largest star in front and the smallest in the back;
- L. low or light. “low”, position on the smallest chain in front and the largest. in the back.
The purpose of the adjustment is to set the chain on the corresponding stars, rotate the corresponding bolts with a screwdriver until the chain is parallel to the frames and, accordingly, with the correct installation of the mechanism itself, parallel to the plane of the wheel and the stars. Additional conditions:
- The chain should not fly off when switching to the outermost sprocket.
- The frame or chain must not touch the axle and frame.
- The chain should not “scratch” against the speed selector.
After adjustment, the entire mechanism should be assembled and checked for correct operation. All transitions must be clear so that the chain does not sag or touch the frame or frames. The shortcomings identified in this “test drive” require a serious approach, because they can speak not only of incorrect tuning, but also of other problems in the bike, and it is better to fix it right away, and not expect serious damage.
On planetary bushings
Gear shifting in planetary hubs is completely different from the usual described mechanism, but also requires periodic adjustment. A “pusher” is responsible for changing gears on planetary gears. a small element resembling a chain that connects the shifting mechanism inside the hub with a cable.
In order to adjust everything well, it is necessary to find the slot on the pusher (the connection point of the rigid and movable part of the device) and at the penultimate speed align it with the wheel axis (for this, special viewing windows are usually provided). The setup steps are as follows:
- We set the penultimate speed: 2 for a three-speed hub, 3 for a four-speed.
- We remove the boot or other protection of the connection point of the cable to the pusher.
- We release the pusher and find the required point, tracing through the viewing window the coincidence of the slot and the wheel axis.
- We tighten the cable with the screw, aligning the pusher.
- Close protection.
It is difficult to make any other shift setting for the planetary hub on your own. You will need to completely disassemble all the mechanisms, which is quite problematic at home.
Setting up the speed switch only looks complicated but can be done by yourself. Beginners are scared off by this process, and quite rightly, by the complexity of the whole complex of works. Indeed, when setting up, a flaw can be identified, associated with the frame, and with the stars, and with the system, and with the bushings.
In general, the adjustment operation is one of the most dependent on the correct assembly and tuning of almost the entire bike. It requires serious attention to itself. Despite all the difficulties, the adjustment must be carried out constantly and not to forget about it, because the quality of riding primarily depends on the drive mechanism, and repairs will be required much less often.
How to properly switch speeds on a bike (instruction)
So let’s start our quick overview of how a bike drivetrain works:
The principle of operation is very simple. the larger the diameter of the chainring and the smaller the rear, the harder it is to pedal, but the faster you can accelerate and, accordingly, vice versa, the smaller the chainring in front and more at the back, the easier it is to pedal, but this will not add speed. There is one more point to which you should pay attention. the gear change occurs only when you pedal, that is, all at the same time. It is corny, but many do not know this and believe that you can just change the speed and start moving. this is not so.
The moment you change the speed but do not pedal, the switch is already on a new star, but the chain is not yet, this leads to two consequences: 1) chain break at the start 2) unpleasant crunch
Below is a visualization for a more convenient perception of words:
Knowing this principle of work, it is much easier to overcome steep climbs and move at medium and long distances.
And now about the most important thing.
Transmission wear depends not only on the components installed, but also on your use. There is such a concept in bicycle terminology as “chain skew”. Chain misalignment is the operation of the transmission when the chain is bent too much. That is, if you use, for example,
the front is the largest chainring and the rear derailleur is also set to the largest chainring.
So, let’s figure out what happens when this happens? It seems to you that the bike rides and rides, but not quite like that, there is an increased wear of the bike components. the chain, rear and front sprockets, derailleur rollers and the rear derailleur itself. How should you switch? Below I will give examples for 7 and 8 rider bike drivetrains, as these are currently the most popular among beginner cyclists.
Shifting rules for Shimano21 speed:
Shifting rules for Shimano24 speed:
Below is an illustration for better understanding.
Some of the switching rules, especially the middle chainring, in front of the rear sprockets may differ from those given by me. It depends mainly on your front derailleur (foot width) and rear sprockets.
For example: if you have a Shimano TZ-30 front derailleur installed, then the middle chainring will work with all rear wheels except the extreme 2 on each side, and if you have, for example, ShimanoTX-50, then the middle chainring will work with all rear wheels except the extreme ones (the largest and the smallest).
All of the above is described based on our experience in practice, and not on recommendations and articles on the Internet. If you adhere to the rules for changing speeds on a bicycle, then your bike will serve correctly and reliably, and will not let you down at the most crucial moment.
Bicycle Rear Derailleur Setting
A very common problem faced by cyclists is the fuzzy rear derailleur. Today we will try to figure out how to set it up from scratch or adjust if the settings are lost.
This article is suitable for setting up all shimano, sram, campagnolo, microshift and other derailleurs, no matter how many speeds you have on your bike, from 2 to 11 speed sprockets on the rear wheel.
The tools you may need are a Phillips screwdriver and possibly a 10 or 8 hex key or wrench depending on the switch. It is also very convenient to carry out work on a special bike rack, but without it you can do it too.
Reasons for the deterioration of the rear derailleur:
Lack of service. Most often, when buying a bike, the derailleur works well and flawlessly, but after the season of operation, you can replace the deterioration in performance or even the chain jumping off the extreme sprockets. In 70% of cases, setting the rear derailleur helps, but sometimes this does not help either, then the cable and shirt should be replaced, as they become clogged with dirt and interfere with the smooth running of the cable in the shirt. Usually bike maintenance is done once a year, in which the switch settings are enabled.
Deterioration of the switch itself. Everything ever breaks down and the derailleur on a bike is no exception. Most often, the parallelogram axes of the switch wear out, due to which a small backlash is formed, which does not allow the switching to be adjusted correctly.
Derailleur sprockets are worn. Over time, plastic sprockets wear out due to which the chain no longer holds on to them, which leads to poor operation of the derailleur. Also, the sprocket axles can wear out and the sprocket will dangle unnecessarily on the axle, which leads to poor shifting.
Curve cock or the switch itself. When you fall or hit something with the switch, the cock will most often bend (break), since it is made specially from a weaker alloy than the switch itself (to keep the more expensive part intact). The curvature does not allow the chains to stand up exactly, which reduces the efforts to adjust the throw to zero. Read how to straighten a cock with your hands.
Cable problems. Sometimes, during installation or when dropped, the cable may bend strongly, after which the place of the bend will prevent the smooth movement of the cable in the shirt. In this case, its replacement is required.
It also happens that the cable gets loose (that’s why you should use the ends of the cables) and later one of the thin threads begins to separate from the main bundle, as a result, prevents the normal movement of the cable in the shirt. Sometimes one thread in the cable can break and also prevent it from working normally, here you can isolate it from the main bundle along the entire length of the cable. But the best option would be to replace the cable with a new one.
If a new cable was installed, then sometimes after a certain number of kilometers (about 100 km), you may notice a deterioration in switching. this is due to the fact that the cable is stretched a little. In this case, it will be necessary to tighten the cable tension bolt a little.
Bicycle Rear Derailleur Adjustment
After we have eliminated all 5 possible problems with the rear derailleur, we can begin to configure it. I took a bike with a shimano rear derailleur and divided the whole setup into 8 steps:
On the shifter, we throw off to the highest speed (which corresponds to the smallest star on the block of led stars). We pedal so that the chain is on a small star. (now you understand why it is so convenient to work with the rack)
I do not show numbers on the shifter, but believe me the position of the indicator is on the “number” 9. Which corresponds to the smallest star on the cassette.
Weaken the hexagon or bolt that holds the cable.
We twist it all the way, and then return one turn back all the cable tension adjusting knobs that are on the switch and on the shifter (sometimes there is only one adjustment screw on bicycles, most often it is on the switch, less often on the shifter).
In my case, the cable tension regulator is located only on the shifter. The photo shows how I spin the lamb.
We pull the cable with our hand (it is not necessary to pull with all our strength, the main thing is that it does not sag and be stretched along its entire length) and tighten the bolt holding the cable.
Align the center of the derailleur foot rollers with the center of the smallest chainring on the bike. Some people remove the chain for stages 5 and 6 to fine tune them. I do not see the need for this, you can not shoot, especially if you have a switch that is not of the highest level, such as shimano tourney, acera or alivio.
We turn the screw “H” with a screwdriver until the centers of the rollers on the foot of the switch and the small star coincide and proceed to the next step.
In the photo, I showed a red line, along which you can see that the switch roller is under a small star on the cassette, which means that the extreme position is set correctly.
We switch on the shifter to the lowest speed (number 1), which corresponds to the largest driven star. We twist the pedals so that the chain goes to the extreme sprocket. And also align the center of the foot rollers with the center of the largest sprocket. All this alignment takes place with the screw “L”.
On the shifter, there is an indicator for switching the speed to number 1, if there are no numbers in the most extreme position, which should correspond to the largest star on the cassette.
We drop again at the highest speed. Don’t forget to pedal The chain should be on the smallest star. Next, switch to one speed and turn the pedals, if the chain does not jump or does not jump right away, then you need to slightly unscrew the adjusting screw that adjusts the cable tension (it turns out we pull the cable).
Then again we check and switch from the highest speed to one step lower (if the 8-speed cassette, then from 8 to 7 speed), if the switch happened immediately, congratulations you set the switch! You can check the remaining speeds will also easily and clearly switch both up and down.!
The chain should jump to the adjacent speed. In my case, this is a 9 speed cassette. Switching from 9 to 8.
Adjust the distance from the largest star to the derailleur roller. This distance should be about 4 mm, if the distance is greater, the switching clarity will be reduced. The adjustment screw on the switch is responsible for adjusting this gap. Unscrewing the screw the distance decreases, screwing it in increases. tuning is done on the largest star corresponding to the number 1 on your shifter.
Possible errors when setting the rear derailleur
Question: What if I unscrewed the adjusting screw to the end, and the chain still does not switch to 1 speed lower? Answer: Most likely you pulled the cable poorly by hand from step 4, or you did it with insufficiently tightened cable tension adjusting screws from step 3, and it is also possible that you did not pull the cable at the highest speed on the shifter described in step 1.
Question: I reached stage 7, but the chain was not on the smallest star why? Answer: You may have pulled the cable too tight with your hands in step 4, in which case try to loosen the cable tension slightly with the adjusting screw. If the chain still does not go to the extreme small star, repeat steps 1 to 4.
Rear derailleur setup video:
Share your experience with setting switches in the comments.
The derailleur does not switch speeds on the bike
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Setting the front and rear derailleurs on a bicycle
Using the right handle, which is responsible for the rear derailleur, we lower the chain to the smallest star of the cassette. In our case, this is the eighth.
Loosen the screw that holds the rear derailleur cable with the N5 hexagon.
We take a screwdriver and look for a screw with the inscription H. Rotating the screw, move the rear derailleur so that all three sprockets on which the chain lies (one on the cassette and two on the switch) lie in the same plane.
Now by hand we pull out the rear derailleur cable as much as possible and clamp it with a screw.
The cable is locked and we test how the rear derailleur works by alternately running the chain throughout the cassette from the smallest to the largest sprocket and back. If the derailleur does not move well to large stars, then you need to tighten the cable by turning the rear derailleur thumb counterclockwise.
We transfer the chain to the largest star of the cassette. Using the screw marked L, we move the rear derailleur so that the derailleur foot and the largest sprocket in the cassette again lie in the same plane.
Front Derailleur Setting Lower Limit
Moving on to setting up the front derailleur. We flip the front derailleur to the smallest sprocket, and the rear derailleur to the largest. Release the screw that holds the cable with a hexagon. Using a screwdriver, turning the adjusting screw marked L, move the switch frame so that the distance from the chain to the inside of the frame is about 3-4 mm.
After adjusting the lower limit, the cable must be reattached. Pull the cable by hand and tighten the screw with a hexagon.
Let’s move on to setting up the second asterisk. After we secured the cable, we put the eighth gear on the rear derailleur (i.e. the smallest sprocket), and on the front derailleur we transfer it to the second sprocket. If the chain touches the outside of the frame, then pull the cable. The cable is tightened with a lamb, located on the handlebars on the left shifter, by turning it counterclockwise until the chain stops touching the frame. Thus, we have configured the first and second stars. The chain should not touch the frame and the distance from the frame to the chain is about 2-3 mm.
At the final stage of the setup, switch to the third star. If the chain touches the frame, then using the adjusting screw marked H, move the frame outward, thus increasing the gap between the chain and the frame.
What to do if the bike does not switch gears: ways to solve the problem
Always keep your bike in good condition. But in spite of everything, some parts tend to wear out, which entails certain problems. For example, the speed of the bike does not change. What is the reason and how to fix it? In some cases, the problem can be solved on site, in other situations it is necessary to replace the worn part.
The scheme of operation of switching speeds involves throwing a chain. After the shifter has been pulled, you need to turn the pedal, only after that the chain will move to another star. Extraneous sounds and clicks when switching may indicate that a changeover setting is needed.
Why the speed may not switch:
- the chain or cassette is worn out;
- the cock bent;
- switch backlash;
- the presence of damage to the cables and shirts;
- the switch has not been adjusted or the previous setting has been lost;
- the transfer cable is damaged (it may stretch, break or be close to breaking);
- broken switch;
- broken spring in the switch;
- the teeth of the rollers are ground off;
- the chain is dirty, which prevents it from rolling freely.
Therefore, if problems with switching occur, it is necessary to carefully check each of the possible causes of failure. In most cases, the reason lies in the lack of regulation or the fault of pollution. Parts can only wear out with long-term and intensive use.
Fixing the problem
The method of correcting the problem that has arisen will be determined depending on the cause of the breakdown.
Cables and shirts
One of the most common problems that amateur cyclists face is cable wear. To check the condition of the cables, you need to find areas without a shirt, and then click the shifter. This will allow you to see the inside of the cable, which should not have emerging threads. The presence of such defects indicates that it is time to change the cable.
Another important detail is the aluminum cap. This is an obligatory part of the cable that protects it from loosening. If it is damaged, then it must be replaced.
If the gears are shifted, but not always as the cyclist requires, then the problem may be in the shifting rollers or cassettes, where the teeth have worn out. The only way out of this situation is to buy a new part.
The chain becomes unusable approximately every 100 kilometers. Although the chain can be used after such a distance, it will no longer perform all tasks properly. Therefore, cyclists often have multiple spare chains.
Using new chains will allow the cassette to last longer as the worn part will not affect the rest of the bike. The “gauge” tool is used to determine the state of the chain.
[attention type = red] Important! The chain is a part that cannot be repaired, so if it gets worn out, you just need to purchase a new one. [/ Attention]
An even cock is the key to high-quality gear shifting in your bike. If it is bent, then there are two options: bend it or buy a new one. In any case, until this part becomes even, it makes no sense to even try to adjust the gears on the bike, since the idea will be unsuccessful due to damage to the system.
One of the most unnecessary accessories for cyclists is a rooster guard. Such a detail can be found without any problems in any city. But if the protection works and the part itself remains intact, and the frame cracks because of this, then the one who bought such a device will incur high costs.
Setting the switches
Derailleurs on a bike are divided into front and rear. It is the rear ones that are most damaged when driving, so it is recommended to adjust them first. The process itself will be long, as there are more stars than in the front derailleur.
[attention type = yellow] Important! It is necessary to proceed to setting the speeds on the bike only after all other parts have been checked for serviceability. [/ Attention]
Rear derailleur setting:
- The screw “H” must be tightened so that it aligns with the small sprocket.
- Screw “L” must be tightened so that it is in line with the large star.
- You need to set the highest speed on the shifter.
- The cable is stretched and fixed.
- If, after the performed manipulations, high gears are turned on with interference, then the cable must be loosened. If the situation is the opposite (the gears are badly thrown off), then the cable must be pulled.
The basic configuration steps are now complete. The cyclist only needs to adjust the shifting accuracy. The procedure will get more complicated depending on the number of stars used. The chain is installed on the stars as follows: in front. on the smallest, on the back. on the largest. After that, the tension screw is tightened until the roller is as close as possible to the cassette. It should not rub against the cassette. A similar procedure is carried out with the chain, which is then installed on the largest chainring and the smallest rear chainring.
Front derailleur setting:
- Check the correctness and tightness of the fastening.
- Release tension at minimum speed.
- The screw “L” must be tightened so that a gap of 1 mm is created between the body and the chain.
- Fasten the cable with the bolt.
- Repeat the same procedure with screw “H”, but then the tension is set to the maximum speed.
You will need to adjust the speeds until the chain begins to smoothly and freely change from one speed to another. If, when changing the speed, problems begin (difficult move, the chain flies, and so on), then the cable is tensioned using the adjusting bolt to the desired position.
After the manipulations with the settings are completed, the system is checked using a race, where the recommended gear ratios will be used. Adjustment is a standard procedure on any speed bike, as the tension in the cables will loosen over time. Therefore, setting speeds is often a planned activity that does not require replacement of parts.
You should not ride your bike at speeds at which there is a strong skew, 1/8, 3/1, and so on. Recommended speeds for stars depend on size:
- small. 1 to 4;
- medium. 3 to 7;
- large. from 7.
The incompatibility of the gear and the sprocket will lead to the chain sticking and spinning, which will cause the part to wear out an order of magnitude faster.