Does the bike whistle a melody with each wheel turn? There is good news! After the elimination of the whistle, it will be easier for you to ride. Neutral news: the brakes rub against the rim.
For repairs, you need to adjust the brake mechanism so that the wheel is exactly between the two pads.
If the pads are NOT whistling, then it may be a loose spoke. So just make sure they are tight. If, nevertheless, some kind of knitting needle went on a spree, then with this you can call in to the bicycle master or, if you know how, then independently tighten the knitting needle. The main thing after that check the wheel for an eight and an egg
Metal chain creak
If you hear a dull metallic sound when changing gears that do not work immediately, then you should index the gear in such a way that the switch throws the chain to the correct sprocket.
If the noise is constant, the chain may be rubbing against the front derailleur, which should also be adjusted.
Finally, if you cannot find these signs, then try washing the chain thoroughly, drying it and lubricating it. It is possible that chain contamination could have caused the crackling.
annoying bike sounds or breakdown symptoms
Cyclists usually turn to bike mechanics to complain about strange noises when cycling.
A silent bike is safe and fast, and, admittedly, not annoying. There are many unpleasant sounds that a bicycle can make, BUT knowing what they mean, you can even fix the problem yourself and get back to riding.
There are many variations of sound problems, but we have highlighted the 5 most common complaints about weird bike sound.
Clicking near the feet
The click in the carriage area, which occurs when you pedal, is especially pronounced on the rise and indicates a malfunction of the carriage. Over time, the sound will increase and appear regularly. It won’t go away on its own.
This sound could indicate carriage wear. You can determine the correctness of the diagnosis as follows: grab the connecting rods and move them from side to side. they should not move, if they are movable, then the carriage is loose. In this case, it is better to take the bike to the bike master for repair and he will already tell you how best to resolve the issue with the carriage.
Grumbling off the wheel
Constant grumbling of the steering wheel usually means that it is not secured tightly. This is especially audible when you brake. To check, you need to apply the front brakes and move the bike back and forth. The steering wheel and head tube should not wobble or vibrate, if this happens, then the diagnosis of this sound: poorly fixed steering wheel.
You can fix this yourself. Loosen the stem bolts so that the handlebar moves easily from side to side, then tighten the stem cap. not very tight until you feel a little effort. Then check if the front wheel is parallel to the frame and secure the bolts. Check the steering wheel for play by wobbling it from side to side. If you find that it was not the steering wheel that was noisy, double-check all fasteners and bolts. The basket and fender mountings must be well fixed, otherwise, even with the slightest movement, they will create noise.
The pedals have bearings that wear out. And this happens earlier if they are often contaminated with dirt and moisture. Therefore, if you hear an unpleasant crunch from the pedals, then do not lose heart, and if the bike master says that it is time to put on new pedals, then take this positively and use this opportunity to pamper yourself with a new pair! Now they are so different in size, weight and color.
Clicking / popping rear derailleur chain area on road bike
If the problem is not in the pedals, then it may be a bushing, in which case a professional repair is needed.
If these tips for the bike did not help and the extraneous sounds did not disappear after all your efforts, then do not torture the bike, yourself and those around you. bring your iron horse to us for technical inspection and we will correct all the shortcomings and breathe new life into your bike!
How to learn to ride your rear wheel
Among fans of cycling, video sketches posted on the Internet are very popular, where experienced craftsmen skillfully and effectively move on the rear wheel. This spectacle is quite interesting, causing a special desire in teenagers to learn such a riding practice.
Moving on the rear wheel of a bicycle is called Wheelie or surf riding. To learn this, you will need several obligatory lessons that step by step reveal the technique and subtleties of the trick.
Common beginner mistakes
Oftentimes, the fear of falling takes precedence over the desire to learn the trick. One thing to advise is to overcome it. Protective ammunition can play a significant role in this, allowing you to avoid serious injuries. In addition, you can, for a start, practice in the correct dismount on both feet from a bicycle that has reared up and out of control, letting it go “under you”. this will surely add confidence.
“Dropping hands” after the first setbacks. There is no need to hope that success will come overnight. Do not believe those who say that they went the first time. Even learning simple cycling takes time and patience, let alone such an extreme form of driving. Practice shows that significant gains come after a week of training.
This has already been said. when breaking off the front wheel, you cannot rely only on the jerk of the steering wheel with your hands. this is a dead-end option.
You should not bend over to the steering wheel, even if it seems to be the safest position. it is impossible to keep the center of gravity in this position.
Sudden movements, acceleration and deceleration are a direct path to a fall. Everything should be smooth and proportionate.
Have you heard about the fingerboard? It is a “micro” skate that looks like a toy. However, the tricks on it are quite difficult and require a lot of patience. details here.
In order to learn to ride on the rear wheel, it is important not to be afraid or panic at the first setbacks. Only persistent training will bring positive results over time. However, the time will pass when you laugh at yourself now, when such a trick will be easily performed reflexively and even the thought that someone cannot master this will seem strange.
So, the first lesson. you need to learn how to properly raise the front wheel.
Moving at an average speed (about 15 kilometers per hour), hold the steering wheel with straight arms. Then, simultaneously with pressing the pedal with your jogging foot, shift the center of gravity to the area of the rear wheel and make a small jerk with straight arms.
According to all laws of physics, the front wheel should rise above the road surface. It is clear that all movements and efforts must be strictly proportioned so that the bike does not trivially roll out from under the rider or immediately take its original position.
It is also necessary to maintain balance with body movements, and not by a jerky application of force to the steering wheel. In general, the arms should always be kept upright and tense. Some flexion of tense arms is acceptable, but this way they get tired very quickly.
Well helps to maintain balance by manipulating the force of pressing the pedals or briefly applying the hand rear brake
Do not hope that the first successes in lifting the wheel off the ground are almost everything. Only long-term practice, which can take a lot of time, will help to subtly feel the moment of balance and will allow you to keep it for a long time.
What are the similarities and differences between a longboard, a skateboard and a mini-longboard, you can find out from the material on our website.
Have you ever dreamed of learning how to fly? You can find out about some types of paragliders here.
For parkour lovers, we have collected five of the best films about this extreme sport. Read the link: pro-extrim.com/other/kino/film-pro-parkur.html
Learning to properly control your bike
So, the first successes have been achieved. it is possible to drive a certain distance on the rear wheel. It is now necessary to learn how to control the bike in this position.
Again we recall physics, the rules for the vector expansion of the applied force, in this case. from the center of gravity. Using my knees as a counterweight, you can quickly learn to “steer”. just tilt them in the right direction of the turn. It is clear that sharp movements should be excluded. this will provoke an inevitable fall.
You can adjust the direction of movement with the help of the steering wheel, but in a mirror image. to turn to the right, the steering wheel is turned to the left, and vice versa. With more practice, every cyclist will find the most appropriate way to make turns.
Disputes often arise. it is better to sit in the saddle or stand on the pedals with bent legs. There is no general recipe. both methods have a right to exist, the main thing is that the correct location of the center of gravity above the rear wheel is observed. By the way, this largely depends on the design features of the bike. In any case, with good skills, it will be possible to ride, sitting in the saddle, with an air of complete serenity.
Getting ready for the first lessons
Before you start exercising, it is wise to provide protective equipment. a bicycle helmet, elbow pads and knee pads. Unfortunately, practice shows that it is practically impossible to do without falls at the first stage of training.
The second question is the choice of technique. Almost all bicycles are suitable for riding on the rear wheel, but it is best to master this method on models of the mountain class. They have a different design than other types and are called off-road bikes or mountain bikes in another way. On such models, training will be faster and easier. the stability parameters of such bicycles are much higher. In general, heavy-duty, heavy-duty frames and 26-inch wheels are best suited for rear wheel riding.
The optimal gear selection is the smallest sprocket on the pedals and the middle sprocket on the wheel (1-3). Setting too high a gear will prevent you from maintaining balance, too low. will not give the necessary acceleration.
For the convenience of mastering the technique, it is better to lower the seat to the minimum height. The operation of the rear hand brake will be important, ideally if it is hydraulic.
A new type of skateboard appeared not so long ago, but it is quite successfully conquering the world. Rollersurf. skateboard on two wheels.
Also, do not miss an interesting story about how to learn parkour.
It is best to learn to ride on the rear wheel on a slight rise. the initial stage of front wheel separation will be greatly facilitated.
Why do disc brakes squeak on a bicycle?
The disc brake can also produce such shuffling sounds. This means that the disc itself is bent. It must be removed and, placing it on a flat, hard surface (better if it is a metal plate), straighten it by gentle tapping with a hammer. If things are really bad, then replace.
Why do bike brakes squeak??
A squeak is often heard when braking. In wet weather, both rim brakes (Wi-breaks) and disc brakes creak. And that’s okay. Once they are dry, the creak will go away. But sometimes rim brakes squeak because the brake pad surface is dirty. To fix the problem, unscrew the pads, clean the braking surface first mechanically. for example, you can scrape the pads with a knife, wipe the rim with a rag. and then treat both of them with acetone. In addition, if the wheel is “eight”, from time to time you will hear not very loud shuffling. If the “eight” is weak, then just spread the pads a little, if it is large, it is better to straighten it, on your own or in a service.
Why does the pedals creak?
Also, the source of the squeak can often be the carriage, cranks and pedals. after all, it is to them that the cyclist applies the main effort when riding. The reason for the squeak is the presence of dirt and lack of lubrication. Of course, the best solution to the problem is to iterate over the entire block, but first try to deal with only the pedals. If you have cleaned and lubricated them, but the creak has not disappeared, then it is worth going deeper: clean the connecting rods and the carriage. The noise in the connecting rods is eliminated by cleaning the seats with their subsequent lubrication. If this is not possible, try tightening the bolts that hold them: this sometimes helps. If you figured out the pedals and cranks, and the noise and rattle did not disappear. well, you have to grab the carriage. Go over it, clean it of dirt (the solvent will help you!) And lubricate it. Of course, if the balls in the bearings are not what they used to be, the parts are easier to replace. Apply sufficient, not excessive force when assembling!
Why does the saddle creak?
If you have a “worn saddle creak”, then most often the problem is that sand has somehow got into the frame tube, where the seatpost is inserted. Simply wipe the pin and apply a thick layer of grease to the end (about 5-10 centimeters in length). The inside of the frame, of course, is also worth wiping. Perhaps the creak remained, and the saddle itself creaks. There may be sand in the seatpost clamp (but this is rare). Clean this place, no need to lubricate it.
Why does the steering wheel creak?
The stem clamp can also squeak for the same reason: sand. Release the clamp, remove the handlebar, clean and lubricate the seats, reassemble. There is nothing complicated in the operation, it is done with ordinary hexagons. If there is still a creak in the area of the steering wheel, sometimes this is due to the creaking of the stem on the steering tube. Eliminated in the same way.
Cracking of Aluminum Bicycle Rims from Fatigue
Why does the bike creak?
In this article, we will answer not only the question “why does the bike creak”, but also tell about all the extraneous sounds that may appear during riding: creak, grinding, crunching, rustling, whistling, crackling, banging. These sounds are not always a reason to worry. Sometimes this is normal, their origin is natural and there is no reason to worry. Sometimes such noises serve as an indicator that something is wrong in some node, but it is fixable. And sometimes it means that everything is very bad. In any case, suspicious noise should be addressed immediately, its source should be found, the cause should be understood and appropriate measures should be taken. When “searching”, remember that the aluminum frame resonates well, so it may seem that it knocks and rattles, for example, in the rear hub, but in fact the problem “lies” in the area of the steering wheel.
Why does the bike creak?
The main causes of strange noises are improperly tightened parts, lack of lubrication and dirt. At the same time, an incorrect tightening does not mean that it is weak, in some cases it can be overtightened, and then, instead of a free wheel, some rotating part will do it with effort. excessive friction will generate a whistle. In case of insufficient “tightening”, gradually during operation, the part looses even more, the thread gets lost, the gap increases, dust gets into it and, working as an abrasive, causes additional damage, creating even more noise. But the main thing is that if the part is not firmly fixed, then it can fall off on the way, provoking a fall and injury.
Why does the chain creak and crunch?
The chain can also make different sounds. First, it can hit the frame feather, but that’s okay. You can put on a special pen protector or simply wrap it with duct tape. The chain can also crackle. Of course, our old friend sand tried again. Clean the front and rear sprockets, the rear derailleur sprockets, the chain itself. Lubricate it. There should be enough lubricant. if there is too much, dirt (and all the same sand!) Will stick to it, which will wear out your transmission. Rarely, the chain can make a clicking sound from time to time. Be careful and careful: it signals that it will break soon. This is due to the fact that on one link one of the cheeks slipped off the pin. Use a squeeze to remove the broken link and continue to ride. Also, clicks can emit spokes, since they have lost their rigidity, weakened. They need to be pulled over, and it is better to entrust this business to the professionals in the workshop. In the event that you examined all the rotating, moving parts, but did not find the cause of the squeak, carefully inspect the frame itself, perhaps there is a microcrack somewhere. In this case, we recommend contacting the service: an experienced master will tell you how “dangerous” it is and how you can “cure” it.
With a bike on “you”? Contact the bike workshop!
Summing up, we want to say the following: as a rule, the cause of the squeak is easily eliminated, but this does not mean that you can ignore it. If you are sure that the creak is made by the head tube, which does not want to fall off, but is heard from the seatpost, then you can postpone the service for a while. If the cause of the squeak cannot be found or eliminated, it is better to contact a bicycle workshop, there is nothing shameful about it: you cannot know everything, especially if you have recently become interested in a bicycle. you are faced with such a problem for the first time, and the mechanic sees it every day. And of course, periodically you need to carry out a complete bulkhead and lubrication of the bike. if you ride only in the warm season, then once a year, in the spring, before it starts; if you ride all year round, then in spring and autumn. On your own or in the workshop. it doesn’t matter. Then forget about the creaks.
Causes of squeaks on the rear wheel of “LADA Kalina
Russian cars are getting better over the years, as engineers in the Russian Federation, together with their foreign colleagues, carefully think over every little detail when creating a new model. But at the same time, the desire to reduce the selling price often leads to the fact that many elements are not properly finalized, and extraneous sounds often cause inconvenience to the driver.
So, experts recommend the following actions, depending on the type of problem:
- Brake pads. for replacement, if the wheel creaks while driving.
- Shock absorbers. need diagnostics and replacement of consumables.
- Dirt on the brake disc. waiting or blowing out the brakes with compressed air.
- Corrosion or a small amount of lubricant. treating each element with a fresh compound after disassembling the entire system.
- Even a minor bearing breakdown. its obligatory replacement as soon as possible with the restriction of control of this vehicle until the problem is eliminated, or a rattle appears in the rear wheel of “Kalina”.
- Also, it is on the “Lada Kalina” that there is such a malfunction as jamming or blocking of the spring on the caliper, which activates the brake pads when the gas pedal is pressed, namely, returning them back to their original position. This means that the hydraulics are in order, the pads clamp the brake disc normally, and the spring needs to be replaced urgently, since they do not fully expand.
All of the above causes of squeaks will be eliminated, and unpleasant sounds will not pester the driver if he undergoes regular maintenance with diagnostics of all systems. So, at the service station at the official dealers, in accordance with the list of routine maintenance, the check of the suspension and brake system elements is prescribed practically for every 10-15 thousand km. operation of the vehicle, and all defects will be identified in advance, which will help to do preventive work.
Other causes of squeaking when driving
It happens that drivers, while driving, feel extraneous squeaks or noises, but none of the above reasons are suitable for diagnostics, and the real rationale for the problem lies in something else. So, among the most obvious reasons are the following:
- The main problem often lies in the pumped-over tires, because the driver or tire technician may have forgotten to look at the recommended pressure parameters in the cylinders before air injection. Thus, if a pressure of 2.6 atmospheres is given to the tire instead of the recommended 2.4, this can lead to squeaking during driving when the surface is rubbed against the asphalt and especially when cornering.
- If the car has winter tires or spikes, then when driving fast on a hard surface, it will definitely knock on it, causing a lot of noise, and the higher the speed, the stronger it will be felt in the cabin. The same applies to the “Velcro”, because it will begin to emit squelching sounds on the asphalt or the front wheel of the car may creak.
- If the car moves off-road, the owner may feel a knock on every bump. This means that the ball elements of the suspension or the levers on it are loose or worn out and require prompt diagnosis, and then repair or replacement.
- It happens that the wheels are chosen in such a way that their radiality, profile or width do not meet the permissible limits from the vehicle manufacturer. It is in such cases, as a rule, that the tire hardly fits under the wheel arch, and when driving, the protectors rub against stationary parts of the car, which leads to noise and causes rapid wear of all parts rubbing against each other.
- The last thing that can be the reason when the tires creak on the wheels are new tires, which are still covered with a layer of oil, and the car drives on perfectly flat asphalt or polymer coating of the parking lot. This effect of new wheels disappears within 100-200 km after their installation.
Steering knuckle bearings
If, when turning the steering wheel, the driver hears an uncharacteristic creak, which can sometimes appear quite suddenly, it is worth listening to the steering knuckle.
When the sound comes from there, the reason is probably the worn bearings.
These bearings can squeak and crackle if there is no lubricant inside or if sand or other abrasive contaminants have entered the housing.
Untimely replacement threatens with dangerous consequences. It is recommended to remove the bearing from the steering knuckle, check it for defects. If not, grease is added and the part is returned to its place. If defects are detected, a new bearing is used, similar to the previous one.
Damage to the hub bearing. we go to the service station?
The most difficult to diagnose cause of unpleasant grinding and knocking sounds can be damage or destruction of the wheel bearing. To accurately determine this cause, it is necessary to raise the car so that the wheel rotates freely.
By loosening it with both hands at the same time, you can hear the wheel creak and feel the backlash. arbitrary walking on the hub. If there is a backlash, you can safely go to a car service, because replacing a bearing is a laborious task, and you cannot do without a special tool.
Instead of a conclusion
So let’s summarize. A squeak in a bicycle occurs as a result of dust, sand, water entering the rubbing parts, or as a result of washing out oil. Most often, the creak of a bicycle is associated with the loosening of a part that makes a sound. If suddenly there is a suspicion that the frame or the part itself (for example, the steering wheel) creaks, then you need to carefully consider the part and the welds. the appearance of cracks can cause subtle nasty squeaks.
Squeaking occurs most often due to the appearance of friction and movement. Friction appears due to movement (and there should not be any movement there, even by a micron). If the part is not properly secured, it squeaks. To eliminate such squeaks, we put a little graphite or lithol in the collapsible joints, and in the non-collapsible ones we put a little bit of WD-40. The squeak of a loose part is revealed by swinging it with your hands.
The squeak of brakes and chains often indicates that it is time to replace both.
Monitor the condition of your iron horse and do not let squeaks appear. Bicycle creaking is a sign of bad taste.
My rear hub flew!
Yes Yes! The clicking sound that annoyed me so much resulted in the rear hub starting to wedge hard. And this happened, of course, 30 km from the house. This was manifested in the fact that the idle cassette from time to time began to spin with the wheel and pulled the entire chain up (while pulling the rear derailleur foot to the maximum). This chain just dangled from above, hammered along the frame and that and looked to fly off the stars.
To pick up the excess chain, I had to constantly pedal without stopping. So I drove home))
Well, I think now everything is clear! Right now I will disassemble the hub (and I have Mavic CrossRide wheels, if you know what it is), replace the pads, see what is there for and everything will be in chocolate.
Disassembled. It turned out that one of the bearings 608-2RS / C3 had collapsed:
And one more, apparently, was already on the verge. the inner clip dangled like shit in the hole. Here in the photo you can see that even the inner edge of the anther has worn off:
In general, so as not to get up twice, I decided to change all bearings at once: two 608-2RS / C3 and one 6001-2RSH / C3.
I didn’t change only this one, blue one (6705-2RS):
I pressed all the pads onto the 609 lokite (which is for sure), covered everything with solid oil, and collected it. The wheel began to spin like clockwork! Really like clockwork, this is the most appropriate description.
I collected the lead, put it on my feet, press the pedal. and again CLICK. Yopa mother. What is it!?
Well what can I say, there is only one option left. a microcrack in the frame. And there’s nothing you can do about it. True, there was still a faint hope that this chain was cracking and clicking under load, but this was somehow quite unlikely. After all, the load is applied simultaneously not to the entire circuit, but only to that part of it that is currently on top between the system and the cassette. And it is unlikely that when I step on the pedal, the same fragment of the chain appears at the top every time
I decided to roll until the frame bursts. Or will this sound somehow manifest itself more clearly.
Just in case, I’ll leave the odometer here so you know when I went over the rear hub: 12,800 km.
P.S. A few days later, quite by accident, I found the source of the clicks! It turned out to be a rear derailleur. I would never have thought))) I sprinkled VD-40 on it, wiped it dry and the sounds disappeared!
By the way, this joint, which is right in the middle of the photo, made unpleasant sounds:
So, people, if you have something clicked, do not rush to disassemble half of the bike! The problem may not be worth a damn. And always remember that the source of sounds can be in the most unpredictable place.!
Strange clicks in the carriage area
Fuck! How bored I was with this out of nowhere snapping sound that came from when the pedal was pressed hard!
At first I thought it was the seatpost cracking at the attachment point to the seat tube, as is usually the case with everyone. Every shit is constantly stuffed there, and then it all creaks and fart under load.
But, in my case, if I lift the gappa over the saddle, then the nasty clicking sound does not disappear anywhere. So its source is somewhere else.
Then I thought that the problem is where the pedals are attached to the crank arm:
As a cursory googling has shown, this is the most common source of suspicious sounds. Dirt gets under the thread and it all starts to crack under load. And although I hardly believed that this place could crack from both sides at once, I nevertheless unscrewed the pedals, carefully cleaned it and screwed it on with graphite grease. Did not help.
There was still an option that the matter was in the pedals themselves. over, I recently repaired them.
Again, the likelihood that both the right and left pedals were covered at the same time (after all, the sound appears regardless of which one you press on) was small, but I had to check. I put the stompers on another bike and the sound, of course, hasn’t disappeared anywhere.
By the way, the fact that a disgusting sound arises regardless of which pedal to press, made it possible to immediately discard the thought of a weakly tightened left crank. After all, when you press on the right pedal, the left connecting rod finally does not participate in this process. And the click still appears.
In the course of experiments, it turned out that clicks appear even if you press on the connecting rods themselves. That is, the pedals (and everything connected with them) could be immediately excluded.
Then I began to suspect the chainrings that hold the chainrings. But the attempt to tighten them even more did not lead to anything. They are there and so tightened up to the stupor. In addition, as it turned out, the middle and large stars are fastened with the same bolts, but the smallest star is completely different. And the ill-fated clicks appear regardless of which stars the chain is on at the moment. So the stars (or rather the bonks) also disappeared.
Then I thought, what could be the matter in the carriage itself? And that upset me completely. Since relatively recently (or rather about 7000 km ago) I have already changed the carriage to a new one. To verify my assumption, I decided to take turns out the cups and temporarily stick in the cups of the old carriage. So I did.
As a result, I changed both cups and the clicking sound still remained! What a motherfucker?!
In general, I returned the carriage to its place (fortunately, I now have something to press it out and press it in).
Then I remembered that once upon a time I had suspicious sounds due to a weak tightening of the rear eccentric. Here it is. Stopudo the problem is this! And how I did not immediately guess?
He tightened the eccentric with terrible force! And holding my breath, I stepped on the pedal.
By this time, I had all two ideas: either the frame is cracking (and then it’s pi ts), or the chota clicks in the rear hub, or the spokes of the rear wheel are somehow cracking.
He evenly stretched the knitting needles in a circle (literally half a turn each). In any case, it won’t get any worse. The sound of course stayed.
I examined all the welds on the frame, I found nothing suspicious. And what can pop in the rear hub, I have no idea at all.
In short, I decided to leave everything as it is. After all, it is not for nothing that they say that a good knock will come out sooner or later. In my case, either the frame will fall apart or the rear hub will fly. over, I honestly tried to find the source of the clicks, but nothing came of it.
thoughts on “Strange clicks in the carriage area”
Yeah Sometimes you even understand where the crackle comes from! You can easily go over half of the bike until you understand what the matter is. Sedna, for example, I finally found the source of ringing clicks, which manifested themselves only with vigorous pedaling. It turned out to be a bonka that attaches the rooster to the frame. Disassembled, assembled and the sound disappeared completely. Although at first I also sinned on the pedals with a carriage.
The same situation. The carriage and connecting rods have already been replaced, everything is lubricated with expensive Comma and Motul oils, there are new wheels and bushings. Spokes tightened and lubricated, pedals on slip, new cassette and chain, new chambers and rubber, calipers adjusted, brake pads replaced. All the same, an asymmetric knock appears absolutely phantom, but under load (even minimal). Auchan owners whistle ONLY with unlubricated chains, and I feel like an idiot on a fully serviced GT. Shl. I never found the reason.
Also a knock is not clear from where. Disappears as soon as I clean the chain, rear cross member and front three stars with a sponge and dishwashing liquid. Enough for 2-3 days. Further. a knock again on the rise.
Clicking/popping noise fix. (bicycle wheel bearing swap)
I had the same story. The bike began to click under load a couple of weeks after the purchase. For almost a month I was looking for the source of these unpleasant sounds. I quickly eliminated the saddle and the saddle, since even without them the ill-fated click-click (and the click was paired, how you press the brake on the pedal and how you release it) did not disappear anywhere. I stretched the pedals, then the connecting rods, then I lubricated the whole thing, it did not help. Then it came to the carriage. I twisted it, missed everything and put it back together. I thought that now it will definitely help. but no. I went to the workshop, I say there is not much experience, listen, maybe the carriage is covered (after a month of not very active operation.). The master looked, felt, listened, and said that it was necessary to do what I had already done. Should say help for sure. In short, I decided to buy a new carriage, if anything, there will be a spare one. And so, on the day when I went out to buy (today) I decided to try again, suddenly a miracle will happen but it did not happen, everything clicked as before. I don’t know what hit me in the head, but I did something that I hadn’t done before, but it was already a step of despair rather, unclenched the rear eccentric and in this position gave a load on the pedals and silence I could not believe my ears, squeezed. clicks, unclenched. silence. In general, I removed both eccentrics, lubricated them, just in case, and squeezed them as it seemed to me normally. clicks. I squeezed harder than I thought I needed to squeeze and silence. This is the story I had, can anyone help)
Fuck! The eccentric turned out to be the last on the list of anti-crackling! But I disassembled everything, cleaned it, greased it, stretched it out! )))
Even how your story helped, I drove before on titanium eccentrics, I didn’t know any troubles, I decided to put the full-time Fulcrum from wheels. and then it began, crackling. which builds up as the pressure on the pedals increases, a terrible feeling. I thought the card knot of the carbon frame was covered. I checked everything, nothing helped, and then your comment about the eccentric iiiii BINGO is it
I bought myself a bicycle on September 25, 2020. After riding for a few days, I heard strong clicks in the rear of the bicycle with active pedaling. What I did not do, but the clicks did not disappear. Everything was the same as yours, I clamped the rear eccentric and everything was gone. One has only to squeeze out a little eccentric and all the clicks again.
Good day everyone! Found a problem with what caused the clicks in the rear of the frame, namely in the area of the dropouts. I spent a very long time on the Internet and here is bingo. He took off the rooster, lubricated the area where the rooster was attached to the dropout, tightened the hexagons, put the wheel on and the eccentric did not clamp so much. There are no clicks, I have been skating for two weeks, the flight is normal))).
In addition to the reliability of the eccentric, it is also worth paying attention to the planes in the dropouts, if the frame has traveled, then it is useful to rip them off. The second idea is that if the clicks disappear when the eccentric is tightened, then the problem may lie not in the eccentric and dropouts itself, but in the bearings of the bushing, the play of which is pulled together by the eccentric. In this case, it is important to detect this before the bushing bearings fall apart from driving on the overtightened axle, as happened with the author.
It happens that when driving, especially vigorous twisting, irregular clicks are heard from somewhere below. Wheels are cracking, or rather spokes.
In the article about editing eights, I described the operation to shrink the knitting needles, it will have to be repeated. If the crackling persists, you may have to remove the spoke after the spoke, and lubricate the threads with special grease.
In principle, everything that moves and does not can make sounds in a bicycle, so do not limit yourself to the above list. Wheel bushings can creak, the chain can cling to something, the fork can play and click. Need to find. Run hex on all bolts from stem to brake rotors.
Riding a squeaky bike is not only unpleasant but also unsafe. Clicking and popping sounds can be evidence of a breaking frame. Try to bend the frame by pressing your foot into the carriage axis, press the saddle with all your weight. is the rear triangle “playing”? The most dangerous thing is probably the separation of the head tube.
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Eliminate bike squeaks
Bicycles tend to squeak. this is still not the easiest mechanism, and besides, it is subject to considerable stress. It’s not for me to tell you how clicking and squeaking can be made out of nowhere.
As practice shows, the most difficult thing is to localize the sound source. In fact, a squeak is just parts rubbing against each other that need to be reassembled and lubricated.
But the bike frame is such a thing that it can transmit sound in a completely different direction: it is not surprising when the rear hub is disassembled due to a clicking steering wheel.
I do not pretend to illuminate all the sore spots of the bike in terms of squeaks and other extraneous sounds, but I will try to give some guidance. Also, I do not consider the sounds made by the double suspension rear suspension due to the complexity of the design. So what creaks in the bike?
The steering column is tricky in that it spreads the emitted sound throughout the frame, and it is very difficult to accurately localize the source. I remember that I had to take turns disassembling one bicycle assembly after another for several weeks, and in the end I did not know what to do.
The bike mechanic helped when he heard about my problem. He advised to disassemble the steering, clean and lubricate the bearings, carefully tighten the stem bolts, choosing free play. I did everything he said. and the sound miraculously disappeared. Bicycle grease like Finish Line Premium or Shimano Premium Grease is a useful thing in the household.
The rear derailleur rollers can whistle hard. There are no bearings, and periodically you need to apply grease to their cups. However, after a month they can start whistling again, as if nothing had happened. It is treated by replacing rollers with industrial bearings.
Saddle and seat post creak
This sound also makes you nervous, since most often you sin on the carriage assembly when it appears. You need to determine what exactly squeaks and clicks: a saddle or a seat. Pull out the bolt securing the saddle from the bottom, coat with thread lock and screw tight. Do not overdo it, however. I saw this bolt burst on people on a hike due to overtightening.
If the sound remains, then the seatpost is the problem. You need to pull it out, and clean the pipe well. a lot of sand accumulates there. Clean the seat itself. It needs to be lubricated with a special grease, but I don’t remember what it is called, tell me in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, who knows
Don’t forget the seat clamp. it should also be clean and well tightened.
Probably most of the extraneous sounds are brought by the carriage, which is logical. it has the main load of transferring energy from the pedals to the wheels. First you need to make sure it’s not about the pedals. At a minimum, remove them, inspect for backlash, grease the threads with grease and screw them back.
The latter, by the way, should be done every six months, for obvious reasons. If it is possible to put other pedals for testing, put it on. The sound remains. we dig further. We take the tool for removing the carriage (depending on the type) and unscrew everything.
We wipe thoroughly (including the inside of the carriage assembly), inspect, lubricate and assemble back. We tighten not with all the foolishness, but rather strongly. The sound should be gone. If you have a cartridge carriage (for example, a “square” system), then the sound can be emitted by the carton itself with bearings. then this bulkhead of the unit will not help. change, since it costs a penny.
Also check if the stars of the system are screwed on well. Remove all bolts, lubricate with thread lock and screw back.
I’ll start with a slightly irrelevant, but very unpleasant point. the squeaky bike brakes. This is a problem that plagues many Catalans, and some even consider it normal. Consider vibrake for a start.
Here, squeaking is generated by three factors: brake pad material, rim condition and pad supply. With the first, everything is simple. you need to experiment with the pads. The softer the rubber, the quieter they brake, but wear out faster.
The condition of the rim is the degree to which it is worn and dirty. By the way, by the way. the rim under the vibrake can wear out to such an extent that it bursts around the circumference. I saw it with my own eyes. Do not lead to sin.
You can clean the rim by all available methods. gasoline, thinner, white spirit. the main thing is to clean the rubber bitumen from the pads rubbed into the metal. If all else fails, use a medium grit sandpaper.
The pads must fit very accurately to the rim at a certain angle. Take a look at the picture below, everything will become clear.
Disc brakes are easier. Here, almost everything depends on the material of the pads. Metallized material is harder, it overheats more slowly. it is used where powerful braking is required, for example in the mountains. May squeak, especially in the rain.
The organic material is soft, silent, with excellent modulation. It would be ideal if not for heavy wear and tear due to heavy use. It is also bad that it overheats quickly, up to strong smoke.
The rotors can also be cleaned with solvent and sandpaper. In theory, if you pick up good pads, then the brakes will not squeak in any conditions. At least, I have no squeak on any bike, whether it be discs or vibrating racks.
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Thank you, Victor, very relevant to me! I am waiting for Комментарии и мнения владельцев on the lubrication of the seatpost. Zadolbal squeak, nothing helps
When I was a teenager, when I crossed a railway crossing, my head tube fell off. The bike was an ancient “Stork”, a road bike. This feeling is not pleasant when half of the frame with the steering wheel breaks off. And you fall. I was lucky then that it happened at a low speed, there was no train nearby. Goosebumps ran down my spine, thinking about what would have happened while descending a hill, at high speed and on a busy highway. Brrr.
Great article! Extraneous sounds are very annoying And when you think about microcracks in the frame, it becomes generally scary. As a child, I remember the steering wheel on a folding stork broke off. Just at the moment when I was making a “candle”. It was fun
“Irregular cheeks are heard from somewhere below” Clicks most likely? And the article is really useful