Clicking the pedal on the bike under load

Mountain bike or mountain bike pedals (MTB)

These pedals are of better quality, can last for many years and can travel thousands and tens of thousands of kilometers if you are not using aggressive riding styles. They are lightweight, based on aluminum alloys. Their second, everyday name is treadmills. And this is the right word: they literally stomp on them, different parts of the sole are loaded without fear. on them while standing, they are screwed into the hill (after all, they are for a mountain bike). They have reliable wavy protectors around the perimeter, sometimes spikes.

clicking, pedal, bike, load

Elite, the best mountain bike pedals must meet the following criteria: have the right shape and thoughtful grip and attachment system, reliable bearings that can and should be changed, an impact-resistant platform and balanced weight. For example, the Burgtec Penthouse MK4 pictured below is a masterpiece).

Ordinary walking

The name of the walk is not entirely correct. Rather, they should be called auchan pedals by analogy with auchan-bikes. As a rule, they are included in the package of the cheapest bicycles. Made of 100% plastic. They often split when hitting an obstacle, have a small area, do not have a good aggressive relief or spikes, which is why the foot often slips off. By and large, these are not pedals at all, but a makeshift.

How to properly remove and replace pedals

In order to remove the pedals, in contrast to the carriage assembly, various tools can be used: an adjustable wrench, a regular 15 mm open-end wrench, a special pedal wrench. When using an adjustable wrench, pay attention to its thickness: the distance between the pedal mount and it is the smallest.

Rules to know when changing pedals:

  • You need to change so that the wheels touch the ground. If the bike is on the bottom, you can confuse how to name the pedals: right (from the side of the asterisks), left. on the other side.
  • Which way to unscrew? The right one. unscrew as a regular thread. counterclockwise, and the left. on the contrary, you need to unscrew it clockwise.
  • It is necessary to screw in the pedals, keeping in mind the different threading. The left pedal is screwed counterclockwise.

Contact pedals

The popularity of clipless pedals is very high. They have a clip-on mechanism, are lightweight and compact, but they require special cycling shoes. The contacts attach to the shoe in two ways, there are two attachment systems, Look and SPD.

The contact pedals are needed primarily for the foot to work with great efficiency. With normal pedaling, only when you press the pedal is work done, and lifting to complete a new cycle is done by working with the second leg.

When riding in contacts, the leg works in both phases; when lifting, it pulls the pedal up, or, which is the same, helps to press the second leg. In addition, the knee is relieved and the bike is secured when jumping in XC.

The Look attachment system is used by professionals for road racing. The thing is that the leg is very rigidly fixed according to the insert and forget principle, but you can not unfasten it so quickly. If you have a track in front of you without obstacles and oncoming traffic. this system is for you.

The SPD attachment system was developed by one of the bicycle leaders, Shimano. The perfect compromise for hybrid, road bike and mountain bike.

Good contacts should not come unfastened when going uphill, if you are standing on straight legs, but if there is the slightest threat of falling, the feet should be released as quickly as possible.

Folding pedals

It is enough to equip the pedals with a reliable swivel mechanism, and ordinary treadmills turn into folding ones. The purpose of the folding pedals is for ease of transportation and storage of the bike. As you can see in the photo, it’s hard to find good folding pedals with aggressive treads. Therefore, it is easier to use them while walking.

Components of a bicycle pedal

Whatever innovations of this node were, the main components remain unchanged:

  • Axis. Attention! The pedals are the only bike assembly that has symmetrical threads, with the help of which the axle is tightly screwed into the connecting rod: the right for the right and the left for the left. If the thread is of the same name, then sooner or later one of the pedals will unscrew by itself and fall. In conventional bikes, the axle is made of plain steel, but better. chrome-molybdenum or chrome vanadium.
  • The body itself, on which the shoe sole rests. It is the body that provides inexhaustible food for designers and allows bicycle pedals to look beautiful and unique.
  • Bearings provide easy rotation of the pedal body around the axis.


Good old toe-clips, that is, straps. Although they lose to contact and semi-contact in fixing, they are better than usual. Their cost is lower than contact ones. They can be used by enthusiasts on both trekking, touring and mountain bikes. The second killer argument comes from cyclists with shoe sizes 49-51. In Russia, and abroad, it is extremely rare to buy cycling shoes with contacts for these sizes.

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Pedals on the bike under load

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How to pedal a bike: the basics and basic rules

The principle slowly but surely injures the knees. To pedal correctly, not to press. The best option is to choose a gear that you will have a high cadence (cadence).

When pedaling, try not to get out of the saddle: this will save you energy. Do not strain your entire body, concentrate on the road, breathing and pedaling. details about the latter. further in our article.

Correct pedaling technique

This is called spinning and it involves pedaling with a high cadence. The best way to pedal a bike is done by happy owners of toe clips or bike contacts.

This pedaling technique evenly distributes the load on the knees and leg muscles, saves energy, does not get tired so quickly and, accordingly, travel long distances and / or at a higher speed.

The rate of cranking of the pedals is 60-90 rpm (times) per minute. The pedals should circle around the carriage. With this rotation, the force is evenly distributed throughout the rotation cycle, and not just during the downward pedal movement.

  • Tip: Try practicing with only one foot. Feel that force is distributed evenly over the entire length of the circular motion with each pedal revolution. Exercise until pedaling with one foot is even and smooth. Exercise until you get rid of jerky-gusty movements and so-called blind spots.

What are contact pedals and more details about what they are for. find out in the following

Pedals on the bike under load

Why the bike squeaks. causes and tips for elimination

Modern bicycles include many moving parts that are prone to friction, wear, abrasive particles from the road and water. All this leads to the appearance of extraneous noise during driving.

The easiest way to deal with the problems of a bicycle squeak when riding is best to deal with the bulkhead of mechanisms, cleaning and lubricating with appropriate fuels and lubricants. What are the main options for noisy problems and how to deal with them?

Reason 2: bicycle pedals squeak

Another common source of extraneous sounds is the carriage. This unit is subject to constant significant loads when driving, it does all the work of transferring muscle energy to the traction of the rear wheel.

The importance of warm up

Before getting into the saddle, as before starting any workout, a warm-up is necessary.

It is important not only for muscles, but also for joints and ligaments. The work of our body can be compared to a car engine.

Every car owner knows that the engine must be warmed up before driving in cold weather.

Otherwise, you risk seriously damaging the cylinder-piston group, which will lead to overhaul and costly repairs.

The situation is similar with human joints. Therefore, to avoid injury after a long bike ride, it is important to take a few minutes to warm up.

If there is a problem with the rear ratchet

The ratchet can malfunction if there is too much oil used to lubricate the ratchet, or, conversely, if there is no lubricant in this part of the bike. The ratchet bearings may even crumble or begin to stick. In any case, you will need to remove the ratchet and carefully inspect it. if necessary, replace the bearings, clean the parts from dirt and dust with special fluids, lubricate everything thoroughly. these simple manipulations can already eliminate pedal spin.

It is worth considering that before disassembling the ratchet and treating it with lubricants, it is worth looking at it under good lighting. you can immediately see how dirty the parts are and whether there is oil there. In this case, no disassembly / cleaning / lubrication work is necessary. look for another cause of the problem in question.

The pedals on the bike are spinning. the reasons and methods of fixing the problem

Bicycle pedaling is a common problem faced by every owner of this two-wheeled vehicle. The reason for this condition can be both worn out parts of the bicycle and improper care of the vehicle. This article will discuss the most likely causes of pedaling on a bike and how to solve the problem.

If the cranks of the bicycle sprocket are worn out

In general, problems with an asterisk can be detected with the naked eye without proper experience. First of all, you need to pay attention to the force with which you have to press on the pedals when driving. if you need to make significant efforts, then the problem is in the sprocket. And this leads not only to scrolling the pedals, but also to stretching the chain, and then there is only one way out. to completely replace the bicycle chain with a new one.

There are 2 more options:

  • The sprocket is simply worn out (licked off). this happens when the bike is used for a long time and in the absence of proper vehicle care. With this problem, poor grip is observed, which provokes pedaling.
  • The sprocket is too dirty. you will have to thoroughly clean it with the help of special liquids or fine-grained sandpaper.

If there is a problem with a worn out asterisk, then you need to do the following:

  • remove the rear sprocket;
  • disassemble the asterisk;
  • if necessary, replace parts with new ones or sharpen the sprocket teeth.

Note: experienced cyclists recommend a complete replacement of the drive mechanism and have it done in a specialized workshop.

If there are problems with the transmission

Experienced experts believe that when scrolling the pedals, first of all, you need to pay attention to the transmission. it must be cleaned and thoroughly lubricated with special agents. Particular attention should be paid to the sprockets and the inter-roller space of the chain. To remove the chain for processing, you will have to dismantle the wheel.

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If, even after cleaning the transmission, the pedaling problem persists, then it is advisable to completely replace the entire set.

You can repair or replace the rear hub. this will be a cardinal solution to the problem in question. We act as follows:

  • remove the wheel from the bike;
  • we carry out the spacing of the sleeve;
  • we inspect the axle and rollers of the cone, bearings of the bushing for the level of wear.

Bike Clicking When Pedaling

Note: some craftsmen give the cone for processing on a lathe. This approach to solving the problem can delay the cranking of the pedals, but sooner or later, the rear hub set will have to be replaced in any case.

Pedal compatibility

D.: Yesterday we bought a pedal from you, it didn’t fit, you have a receipt, can you change it? P.: not a problem. What’s wrong? D: it does not screw in. Compared with the old, like the thread is the same, but does not fit. P.: There is a left-hand thread on the left pedal, maybe this is the case? D: yes, everything is so, carefully looked. P.: let’s check on your pedal (takes new cranks).

Alternately, easily twists the returned pedal and the old pedal from the D.’s bike, which looks like a HVZ pedal.

P.: screwed in, but if you want to change. you are welcome. D: hmm. But let’s change those over there.

Something like this dialogue. Only, I suspect, replacing the pedal will not help this lady.

This is because there are several threading standards for bicycle pedal axles and cranks. Currently most popular standard: 9/16 “× 20tpi (14.28 × 1.27mm). Used in most modern bicycles.

Old “French” thread standard. M14 × 1.25mm (14mm × 1.25mm). It was this standard that was used in the production of bicycles in the Soviet Union.

Bottom Bracket Noise creaks clunking clinking

Now the most interesting thing: what happens when standards are mixed?

Indeed, 9/16 inches and 1/2 are very close, in fact, like the M14 incl. without proper experience, it is not immediately possible to tell the difference. But when you try to screw it in, everything quickly falls into place.

The 1/2 “pedal can only be screwed into the 1/2” crank arm. In connecting rods of other standards, it will dangle touching only the edges of the thread.

A modern 9/16 “pedal cannot be screwed into the cranks of an old Soviet bicycle (road and road KhVZ, Ukraine, Aist, Ural, Orlyonok, Kama.)! The difference in dimensions seems insignificant: 14.28 x 1.27 mm. 14 mm x 1.25 mm, but already is critical ensuring incompatibility. Plus the difference in thread height. (Generally speaking, with the help of an adjustable wrench, oil and some kind of mother, craftsmen manage to screw, but it is better not to do this. At the same time, the old thread is irrevocably damaged, and the new one turns out to be too thin to it could be considered reliable for no matter how long trips.)

At the same time, a pedal from a Soviet bicycle can be put into a modern connecting rod without any special consequences. Due to its slightly smaller diameter, there should be no serious problems with twisting, although it will hold on a little worse than the “native” for a modern connecting rod. And cutting a new thread in an aluminum connecting rod is much easier than in an old steel one. Perhaps, for the last few turns, an adjustable wrench is still needed.

Some amendment to this coherent history of standards is introduced by the precision of Chinese manufacture of inexpensive components. That is why they are inexpensive, that there may be chips in the thread, the depth does not correspond to the standard, or there may be some surprise. Also, “branded” manufacturers may well allow production defects. Although the opposite effect is possible. the new Chinese pedals will suddenly fit perfectly into the Soviet connecting rods, or by replacing the old wedge carriage with a new square carriage, you can safely put your old pedals. How lucky.

Eliminate bike squeaks

Bicycles tend to squeak. this is still not the easiest mechanism, and besides, it is subject to considerable stress. It’s not for me to tell you how clicking and squeaking can be made out of nowhere.

As practice shows, the most difficult thing is to localize the sound source. In fact, a squeak is just parts rubbing against each other that need to be reassembled and lubricated.

But the bike frame is such a thing that it can transmit sound in a completely different direction: it is not surprising when the rear hub is disassembled due to a clicking steering wheel.

I do not pretend to illuminate all the sore spots of the bike in terms of squeaks and other extraneous sounds, but I will try to give some guidance. Also, I do not consider the sounds made by the double suspension rear suspension due to the complexity of the design. So what squeaks in the bike?

Rollers whistle

The rear derailleur rollers can whistle hard. There are no bearings, and periodically you need to apply grease to their cups. However, after a month they can start whistling again, as if nothing had happened. It is treated by replacing the rollers with industrial bearings.

Steering sounds

The steering column is insidious in that it spreads the emitted sound throughout the frame, and it is very difficult to accurately localize the source. I remember that I had to take turns disassembling one bicycle assembly after another for several weeks, and in the end I did not know what to do.

The bike mechanic helped when he heard about my problem. He advised to disassemble the steering, clean and lubricate the bearings, carefully tighten the stem bolts, choosing free play. I did everything he said. and the sound miraculously disappeared. Bicycle grease like Finish Line Premium or Shimano Premium Grease is a useful thing in the household.

Saddle and seat post creak

This sound also makes you nervous, since most often you sin on the carriage assembly when it appears. You need to determine what exactly squeaks and clicks: a saddle or a seat. Pull out the bolt securing the saddle from below, coat with thread lock and screw tight. Do not overdo it, however. I saw this bolt burst on people on a hike due to overtightening.

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If the sound remains, then the seatpost is the problem. You need to pull it out, and clean the pipe well. a lot of sand accumulates there. Clean the seat itself. It needs to be lubricated with special grease, but I don’t remember what it is called, tell me in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, who knows

Don’t forget the seat clamp. it should also be clean and well tightened.

Carriage creak

Probably most of the extraneous sounds are brought by the carriage, which is logical. it has the main load of transferring energy from the pedals to the wheels. First you need to make sure it’s not about the pedals. At a minimum, remove them, inspect for backlash, grease the threads with grease and screw them back.

The latter, by the way, should be done every six months, for obvious reasons. If it is possible to put other pedals for testing, put it on. The sound remains. we dig further. We take the tool for removing the carriage (depending on the type) and unscrew everything.

We wipe thoroughly (including the inside of the carriage assembly), inspect, lubricate and assemble back. We tighten not with all the foolishness, but rather strongly. The sound should be gone. If you have a cartridge carriage (for example, a square system), then the sound can be emitted by the carton itself with bearings. then this bulkhead of the unit will not help. change, since it costs a penny.

Also check if the stars of the system are screwed on well. Remove all bolts, lubricate with thread lock and screw back.

Wheels cracking

It happens that when driving, especially vigorous twisting, irregular clicks are heard from somewhere below. Wheels are cracking, or rather spokes.

In the article about editing eights, I described the operation to shrink the knitting needles, it will have to be repeated. If the crackling persists, you may have to remove the spoke after the spoke, and lubricate the threads with special grease.

In principle, everything that moves and does not can make sounds in a bicycle, so do not limit yourself to the above list. Wheel bushings can creak, the chain can cling to something, the fork can play and click. Need to find. Run hex on all bolts from stem to brake rotors.

Riding a squeaky bike is not only unpleasant but also unsafe. Clicking and popping sounds can be evidence of a breaking frame. Try to bend the frame by pushing your foot against the carriage axle, push the saddle with all your weight to see if the rear triangle is playing. The most dangerous thing is probably the separation of the head tube.

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Squeaking brakes

I’ll start with a slightly irrelevant, but very unpleasant point. the squeaky bike brakes. This is a problem that plagues many Catalans, and some even consider it normal. Consider vibrake for a start.

Here, squeaking is generated by three factors: brake pad material, rim condition and pad supply. With the first, everything is simple. you need to experiment with the pads. The softer the rubber, the quieter they brake, but wear out faster.

The condition of the rim is the degree to which it is worn and dirty. By the way, by the way. the rim under the vibrake can wear out to such an extent that it bursts around the circumference. I saw it with my own eyes. Do not lead to sin.

You can clean the rim by all available methods. gasoline, thinner, white spirit. the main thing is to clean the rubber bitumen from the pads rubbed into the metal. If all else fails, use a medium grit sandpaper.

The pads must fit very accurately to the rim, at a certain angle. Take a look at the picture below, everything will become clear.

Disc brakes are easier. Here, almost everything depends on the material of the pads. Metallized material is harder, it overheats more slowly. it is used where powerful braking is required, for example in the mountains. May squeak, especially in the rain.

The organic material is soft, silent, with excellent modulation. It would be ideal if not for heavy wear and tear due to heavy use. It is also bad that it quickly overheats, up to strong smoke.

The rotors can also be cleaned with solvent and sandpaper. In theory, if you pick up good pads, then the brakes will not squeak in any conditions. At least, I have no squeak on any bike, whether it be discs or vibrating racks.