How to properly glue a bicycle tube and repair a tire
How to glue a bicycle tube:
Before installing the tube, double check the inside of the tire to determine the cause of the puncture. Once, after driving along a road along a river dotted with thorns from a hedge, I found about a dozen thorns! By matching the tube and tire, you can find the puncture site. Carefully run your fingertips around the inside of the tire to find the items that caused the puncture and remove them.
- When removing the tube from the tire, remember in which direction the tube was placed in the wheel. This will help locate the puncture site in the chamber after locating the puncture-causing object in the tire.
- Use a ballpoint pen to mark the puncture site with a cross so that you know it exactly.
- If you don’t have sandpaper, stone and pavement can be used instead.
- To prevent the beads of easily inflated tires from falling into the rim groove on one side and swelling on the opposite side, install a thicker rim tape or two rim tapes.
- To make it easier to take off and put on tight tires, fit the rim tape as thin as possible.
- Follow puncture repair techniques carefully. The latter need to be installed on the rim section of the tire at the point where the nipple is attached. Make sure the tire beads are as deep as possible into the rim groove. When installing some hard tires, beads are indispensable. Use the special VAR 425 bumpers to help prevent puncture of the camera during installation.
Two small side-by-side holes in the tube indicate a snakebite that occurs when the tube is pinched between the tire and the rim when driving over a sharp object. Also, these punctures are often caused by under-inflation of the tire to the recommended pressure. Make sure the sidewall of the tire is intact. Otherwise, you cannot do without urgent tire repair.
The hole on the inside of the chamber indicates that the spoke head is to blame for the puncture. Check the entire length of the rim and make sure the spoke holes are covered with rim tape and the ends of the spokes do not protrude beyond the inner surface of the rim. If they protrude, then they need to be filed.
A less common cause of puncture is the rough edge of the nipple hole. This puncture is located at the base of the nipple and it is not possible to glue the bicycle tube.
Create your own camera repair kit:
- Several patches;
- Rubber glue;
- A pair of plastic edging;
- A piece of good sandpaper;
- Small adjustable wrench (when using wheels with hex nuts);
- Or a hex wrench (when using wheels with hex nuts);
- Reliable pump;
- LED keychain (useful when using a dynamo);
- A pair of spare tires (always carry with you).
Everything except the pump must be packed in the seat bag.
Check your bike tires weekly for cuts, sidewall bulges, and wear. Tires with cuts, bulging, and tires with skin visible through the tread are not subject to further use. Remove any pebbles or glass you find embedded in the protector. Use a pressure gauge to check the tire pressure. Tires inflated to the recommended pressure will puncture less frequently and last longer. Recommended pressure is usually indicated on the sidewall of the tire.
Bring spare cameras and tires with you.
In the rain, it is very difficult to glue the bike tube, as the patch will not be able to stick to the tube. In such a situation, you need to install a spare camera, which you should always carry with you! A spare tube will also be indispensable in the event of a tire bulging out of the rim or puncture at the nipple attachment point.
Urgent bicycle tire repair.
Fold a large piece of sturdy plastic in half. Trim the section to a size 10 cm wider than the cut and 5 cm wider than the tire. Remove the tire from the rim. Place a double layer of patch in the center of the gap or cut within the sheathing. Holding the emergency patch, which should protrude on both sides of the tire, install the first bead of the tire on the rim.
If necessary, install a new camera and pump it up a little. Install the second bead of the tire, with the last to install the glued section of the tire. Make sure the patch adheres to both sides. Inflate the tire and cut off any extra patch that should hold perfectly in place thanks to the tire’s air pressure.
So, what actions need to be performed to change the camera. Everything is simple, the main thing is accuracy and a small amount of physical strength.
- Flip the bike.
- If the brakes are V-Brake. remove (open) them.
- Loosen the screw or release the wheel with an eccentric.
- Raise the chain, remove the wheel.
- Release air from the chamber (if any).
- Pry the camera with a bead or any other oblong object (keys, screwdriver, multitool) at two points, at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other.
- Expand the dots little by little, freeing one side of the camera.
- Pull the nipple out of the rim.
- Get the camera.
So, the camera is removed, you can repair it or print a new one. Installing everything back:
- Route the tube inside the rim.
- Check the nipple and space under the tire for nibbling and wrinkling.
- Pump up the camera a little so that it takes shape.
- Insert the tire back behind the rim.
- Put the wheel in place (you should be careful with the chain, it is easy to confuse its position).
- Secure the wheel with a screw or eccentric.
- Reinstall the brakes.
- Pump up the camera.
- Flip the bike.
That’s it, the replacement is complete! As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process.
The repair kit should be considered separately. Many do not open it from the moment of purchase, but in fact, you can assemble it yourself. Homemade repair kit comes out several times cheaper.
- Patches. usually several pieces of 2-3 different types. In modern industrial kits, patches are made of synthetic rubber, smooth on one side and rough on the other. On the smooth side, they are sealed with foil or plastic wrap to stay clean.
- Camera stripping tool. for better adhesion, the surface should be clean and slightly rough using a small metal trowel.
- Glue. glue for rubber that melts it and makes the patch form a single whole with the camera.
- Degreaser. rare, but appears in kits. One of the main problems when gluing is the residual grease or grease on the surface, which prevents the patch from sticking; the camera can be treated with a degreaser before gluing.
Recently, some have been using anti-puncture gels, and it is enough to pour sealant into the new chamber before pumping and carefully disperse it along the inner cavity of the chamber.
Those who changed the camera with their own hands know, perhaps, the main problem. this is the bending of the tire bead. Modern tires fit so well to the rim and are so stiff that it is not always possible to do it with your hands.
Therefore, in the composition of many multitools or kits, de-beading is added. These are small plastic or metal spoons that are inserted between the tire and the rim, allowing you to pry and bend the tire, and then put it back on.
If we change the camera in ideal conditions, we already have a finished garage, a toolbox, a repair kit, and a new camera. Unfortunately, things are not always so successful. It may turn out that the camera burst on the street during a long drive or even at a competition.
Always have with you
The easiest option is to carry your camera and pump with you. Not every damage can be sealed, and the easiest way is to change the entire camera. The only drawback of this kit is weight and volume. The glue kit is a small box, but the spare tire is already a serious piece of rubber that can interfere in a small bag, if you have it with you at all.
Unfortunately, the condition of the roads and the general sensitivity of modern bikes to damage means that it is impossible to travel beyond the city center without a spare bicycle camera or a repair kit. What is needed for replacement in the minimum version?
- Spare wheel or repair kit.
- Key or multitool if the rear wheel is not mounted on an eccentric.
- Pump to pump a supplied or repaired chamber.
Using these tools, you can easily unmount the rear wheel, remove the camera and install a new one in its place.
How to properly change the camera on a bike?
Reasons for replacing a wheel can be very different. from frequent breakdown by a nail or a snake bite by the edge of the rim, to updating the wheel and transferring an old proven camera to it. There is no difficulty in changing the camera on a bicycle. Let’s consider how to do this, and what you may need in the process.
Changing your camera is a simple process that every cyclist should be prepared for. A puncture on the road, damage to the camera in the forest, or just updating a bicycle wheel. it’s always nice to deal with the problem yourself and quickly deal with the problem, and not carry the bike to the workshop.
Every serious cyclist already carries a repair kit and a pump with him, being ready for any eventuality.
How to remove the camera from the wheel
If a puncture still occurs, then to replace the camera, you must first remove the wheel from the bike, and then disassemble the tire to pull out the cameras. This process is quite simple if you have bicycle rigs with you.
First, you need to deflate the chamber to the end, if this did not happen during the puncture. Then we insert one of the assemblies between the tire and the rim, then we pry the edge of the tire with it so that it crawls out of the rim.
Insert the mounting (smooth end of the key) between the tire and the rim
Hook off the edge of the tire so that the edge crawls out onto the road
Then, next to the first assembly, we perform the same operation with the second assembly. Next, we carry out the second assembly along the rim, pulling the edge of the tire outward. If necessary, you can use the third installation.
Then, in the same way, we insert the second editing.
After one edge of the tire has been disassembled, you can pull out the tube. First you need to pull out the air valve (nipple), and then the entire chamber.
Removing the camera from under the bike tire
If during walks you often travel far from home, then it is worth having with you the minimum set of tools that you will need to replace the camera in the field.
Bicycle Camera Replacement Tools
- Bicycle mountings. plastic or metal mountings greatly simplify the bead of a wheel tire. Of course, you can use improvised tools, but this is not very convenient and increases the risk of damage to the camera and even the rim.
- Pump. without it, of course, you can change the camera, but you will not be able to leave on a flat tire. ))
- Spare camera.
- Bicycle first aid kit. a set of patches and glue for repairing a punctured camera.
Repair kit. bicycle first aid kit for bicycle camera
It is important to keep in mind that more than one puncture can happen on a hike, and you cannot store enough cameras for all cases, so it is better to have a bicycle first aid kit with you. The repair kit includes glue, patches and detailed instructions.
How to change the camera on a bike
For most beginners, the question of how to change the camera in a bicycle wheel arises only after the first puncture and causes concern. In fact, this is one of the easiest processes to maintain a bicycle if you have the necessary tools and a little experience.
For an active cyclist, a puncture is a common thing, because on the roads you can constantly find broken glass, pieces of wire and other pieces of iron. Punctures often occur when riding on rough terrain, especially if the bike is equipped with low-quality rubber.
How to put a camera on a wheel
Before proceeding with the installation of a new (or sealed) tube on the wheel rim, you need to carefully check the inside of the tire. After the puncture, pieces of what led to the puncture could remain, and later, may lead to a repeated puncture. This should be done carefully as you can get hurt. Then it is necessary to check the integrity of the protective gasket that protects the chamber from protruding spoke nipples and the valve hole.
We insert first the nipple, and then the whole chamber
The worn tube should be slightly inflated, so it will be more convenient to insert it into the tire. The procedure for installing the camera in place is the reverse of removing it. However, it is much easier to flip the tire onto the rim and you can often do without edgers and do it with your bare hands.
Use edgers if necessary
With the tube on and the tire in place, you can inflate the wheel, adjusting the tire in the process so that the edges are evenly positioned on the rim. We put the wheel in place and you can hit the road!)
That, in general, is all there is to say about how to replace a camera on a bicycle wheel. If you have something to add, you can do it in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев block below.!
How to change the camera on a bike
For many novice cyclists, this question often arises after everything has happened. Perhaps the most common and inevitable event for a cyclist is a puncture. Our roads are full of all kinds of rubbish, glass, wire, piece of iron, etc. So at the most inopportune moment you may hear the sound of pshshchshchshch and you will have to make a forced stop. There is nothing terrible in this, it is a common thing. But it is much better if you are always ready for this and already know how to change the camera on a bicycle. In addition to the replacement itself, you also need to know how to glue the punctured one. Read more about this below.
How to remove a punctured tube from a wheel
In order to pull the tire out of the rim, it is necessary to pick up its edge with the first assembly and pull it out of the rim. At the same time, the assembly must be held so that the tire does not end up inside the rim again, and the assembly itself does not fly into your forehead.
DIY mount for action camera on bike
After that, with the second assembly, we pull out the edge of the tire next to the first assembly in the same way. Do not forget to hold on to the first editing.!
After that, you will feel that the tire tension is already significantly weakened and you can pull out the assemblies. Now, with the help of one assembly, carefully pull out the edge of the tire along the diameter of the wheel until it is completely free. In many cases, this can be done with your hands.
If the tire tension is still too high after using two assemblies, then the third should be used in the same way.
As a result, you should get that one edge of the tire is completely removed from the rim.
Done. Now you can start gluing the damaged camera or just install a new one.
Removing a wheel from a bike
First you need to remove the wheel from the bike. Most likely you already know how, but if not, then we remind you how to do it. Most often, the wheels on modern bicycles are fixed with an eccentric. In order to remove such a wheel, you do not need any keys, you just need to bend it, loosen it, after which the wheel can be freely removed. If the wheel is secured with nuts, then, of course, you have to use the keys.
Disconnecting the V-brake
If the bike is equipped with V-brakes, then you need to disconnect them, and you do not need to loosen them. In the case of disc brakes, everything is quite simple, you do not need to disconnect anything. Remember to put the brake back on after installing the wheel! It is not necessary to tighten the eccentric strongly, it should close with sufficient, but not excessive force.
The one who always has in his backpack is not afraid of a puncture:
- plastic assemblies
- spare camera
- rem. kit, it is also a bicycle first aid kit
- and of course some skill in replacing the camera.
The procedure for gluing the camera is as follows:
- we find damage (if the hole is very small and cannot be found right away, then you can pump up the camera and lower it into the water, the bubbles will immediately show you the place where the air comes out)
- estimate the size of the damage and estimate the size of the patch required
- we clean the damaged area from dirt, sand it with sandpaper
- apply a thin layer of glue to the size of the patch
- after that we wait a couple of minutes, detach the patch from the base to which it is attached and glue it with the same side
- smooth and firmly press the patch for a while. The adhesive dries quickly, so the camera can be used almost immediately.
That’s basically all. Having done all this several times, you will make sure that there is nothing complicated here and the whole process takes a few minutes. If you have any questions and something is not clear, then write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев.
Remove the tire
The first step is to disassemble the wheel using edgers. It is not necessary to remove the tire completely, it is enough to remove it only from one side and remove the damaged tube from there. After that, you need to understand what exactly caused the puncture, it is possible that a small wire or glass remains sticking out somewhere in the tire, so carefully check it from the inside, otherwise a repeated puncture cannot be avoided. Be careful, it is possible to injure yourself if you get stuck with a sharp object.!
Having picked up the sidewall of the tire, we carry out the assembly from ourselves
If you hit a big pothole, then there is a high probability of a breakdown. Also, damage to the camera can be caused by improperly installed rim tape, sharp edges of the nipple hole, or being torn off by improper camera installation. It is better to determine the reason right away, so that, as already mentioned above, you do not step on the rake again.
It is enough to remove the tire on one side and remove the camera
Inspecting the tire for any sharp objects stuck in it, do not forget to shake out the sand and dirt that has gotten into it. We also check the installation of the rim tape, it may have moved out somewhere and the edges of the holes are visible, in this case it needs to be corrected.
Try to establish the cause of the puncture
Next, we slightly pump up the new camera (it’s easier to put it inside the tire) and install it in place of the old one, evenly laying it inside. At the same time, make sure that the nipple is installed evenly and clearly looks into the center of the wheel, and not somewhere to the side. Next, evenly put on the sidewall of the tire on the rim, starting from the nipple. There are tires that dress loosely enough, but they usually require the use of edgers. After that, we once again inspect the wheel, whether the camera has accidentally come out anywhere and pump it up with a pump to the required pressure.
When inflating, bend the pump foot. Be especially careful with the Presta type nipple, it can be torn off
This is about replacing the camera. But after all, you will not always carry several spare cameras with you, and there may be more than one puncture. Therefore, in addition to a spare camera, you should always have a repair kit with patches and glue. There was a puncture. I put a new camera, drove on, and during the parking I took and glued the quickly damaged one, suddenly another puncture will happen, and the spare wheel is already ready.
How to install a camera in a bicycle wheel
Three of these plates are enough for me so that one side of the tire begins to easily climb out of the rim. When instead of plastic plates I used keys, screwdrivers, or any other materials at hand, I very often punched a new camera when installing.
Next, we take out the old camera, starting with the nipple, after unscrewing the cap and washer.
Now we carefully unpack the new camera without violating its integrity. I stopped gluing old cameras a long time ago. As a rule, it takes longer and more expensive.
Before shoving a new tube into the tire, you should swing it a little so that it takes shape and we have less chance of chewing it between the rim and the tire.
First of all, insert the nipple and secure it well with a washer. Next, with our hands we push the camera under the tire along the entire perimeter.
Now we feed the tire back into the rim, first with our hands, and at the end with the same plates that we took out. At this stage, you need to exercise the utmost care, as it is at this point that you can damage the camera.
After the tire is in place, you need to lightly tap the wheel on the ground, turn it in a circle. Thus, the camera will take its place where it could get between the tire and the rim.
Install the wheel into the fork. Tighten the nuts alternately on both sides, while making sure that the distance between the fork and the wheel, closer to the frame, is approximately the same. If you are changing the camera on the rear wheel, be sure to put on the chain when installing.
Having installed the wheel, turn it by hand, if it turns a little more by inertia, then everything is in order, you can pump it up, if it stops almost immediately, then you need to unscrew it and release the fixing nuts on the bushing a little.
If I am not in a hurry and do everything in order, then it takes me no more than 15 minutes to replace the camera.
Probably the most common breakdown for a bike lover is a puncture of a wheel, especially if he is riding in an aggressive style. It ran over the glass, then on a nail, and sometimes jumped over the curb at speed. Experienced cyclists can change the camera on a bike with their eyes closed, but what about a beginner who can’t even remove a wheel, not that a camera change. The main thing is not to despair if you travel a long distance (or better always) carry a pump, a spare camera, or, in extreme cases, a bicycle first aid kit for the wheel. Someday she will save you from the fate of pulling the bike on her.
So, if you have a punctured wheel, first you need to get off the bike, in no case continue to move on a flat tire. Firstly, you will tear the tube even more, secondly, you can ruin the tire, and in the worst case, also the rim.
How to change the camera on a bike
1) If the wheel is not fully lowered, lower it to the end, for this unscrew the cap of the nipple (spool). If you have a nipple (spool) (the same as in the car), press something sharp on the small button in the middle and hold until the wheel is deflated. If you have a spool key cap, simply unscrew it. If you have a nipple (spool) (like in old bicycles), unscrew the thumbscrew and remove it.
2) Remove the wheel. If the wheel is on an eccentric, removal will not be difficult, if not, then you will need keys (depending on the bike and wheel 13-17).
3) If you have assemblies, use them to remove the rim from the wheel, if there are no assemblies, you can use the handy tool (wrenches, etc.), but it is advisable not to use objects with a sharp edge. this can damage the camera or rim Pry the tire with your tool and push it against the rim until the edge of the tire crawls out of the rim, then take the second key or assembly and do this action again, while DO NOT take out the first key when you feel that the keys do not lean back when you release them. just try to draw the second key in a circle around the side of the first key.
4) Take out the camera by simply grasping it with your fingers. Take on the opposite side of the nipple (spool).
5) In principle, you can insert a new camera, but I recommend removing the tire completely (this can be done with your hands or with assemblies (keys)). And check the condition of the rim if there are any metal burrs inside, check the condition of the rim tape, view the inside of the tire. (This action should be especially done if you change cameras very often and do not know where you could punch a wheel)
How to install a camera in a bicycle wheel
1) Take a new camera or a sealed one (how to glue a camera), squeeze it with one hand and slide it in a circle. this will help to clean it of unwanted foreign objects (pieces of rubber, metal shavings, etc.)
2) Inflate it slightly, if you removed the tire completely, put it on one edge (if the rubber is directional. make sure you install it correctly (you can see it on the rear wheel if the protectors are the same)). Mark approximately where the hole from the nipple (spool) is to put the camera into the tire without twisting or breaking it. Insert the spool (nipple) into the hole and screw on the cap.
3) With your hands (if the tire is soft) or using the same tool, put the second edge of the tire onto the rim. BE CAREFUL if using the tool, do not tear the camera.
4) Immediately inflate the wheel slightly and roll it so that the camera settles down, then inflate the wheel to the desired pressure (how to find out how much pressure you need to inflate the wheel)
5) Put the wheel on the bike and clamp it.
3) Nipple as in old bicycles (German)
How to glue and change a bicycle camera
A bicycle is a convenient and versatile means of transportation. On it you can safely and without traffic jams get to the place of work, go fishing or picnic, and even just for a walk. But, unfortunately, there are many dangers on our roads: potholes, stones, glass, sharp branches, etc. Because of this, the camera in the wheel can be damaged and become unusable. Therefore, you need to know how to glue the bike camera or change it yourself.
Naturally, after you understand that the wheel is punctured, you need to disassemble it. This is done with special tools. And it’s good when it comes to home, not field repair.
How to change
For those who do not know how to change the camera on a bicycle, you need to do the work in the following sequence:
- Blow off the camera. You need to release the air by simply pressing on the nipple. If the camera itself deflates badly, you need to squeeze it with your hands.
- Pull the tube out from under the tire. To do this, pry off the tire on one side using a non-sharp object.
- Unscrew the fixing nut (if any).
- Inspect the tire. Remove all stuck stones, pieces of glass, etc.
- Change camera. Pump some air in, and then place the tube under the tire.
- Secure. It is necessary to put the fastening nut in place, and then pump air into the chamber using a bicycle pump.
How to glue
- Find the puncture site, you can do this in a basin of water or any body of water.
- Clean the camera. Degrease it, dry it.
- Prepare a patch. It can be cut from an old unnecessary camera, but it is better to use special patches from the repair kit.
- Stick on the patch. Apply glue to it, immediately press firmly against the camera at the puncture site. Hold for a few minutes.
- After drying, double-check the puncture site.
THE MOST UNIQUE CAMERA ANGLE. How to build BODY CAMERA (a.k.a. SNORRIECAM)
After repair, the wheel is assembled and inflated.
The text was prepared by Roman Borisov. Published: May 29, 2020. Categories: Microrecords, Repair and maintenance.
Tire replacement procedure
We have prepared everything necessary for the repair, let’s proceed:
- We dismantle (remove) the damaged wheel. To do this, loosen the screw and raise the chain.
- We remove the protective cap from the nipple, let the air out of the chamber. If the spool is like in a car, press the button in the middle with a sharp object and hold it until the air leaves.
- We hook the edge of the tire with a special tool or other suitable object in two places at a short distance from each other. We take it out of the rim. The use of a special tool is preferable for repair, it is professional and convenient. However, in the absence of it, use what is at hand and suitable for these purposes. Wrenches (not thick), a spoon will do. Items should not have sharp edges to avoid damaging the camera. Do not apply excessive physical force to the camera, otherwise damage it further. Try to do everything with the necessary effort, but carefully. If using metal objects, be careful not to let them fly off and injure you.
- We take out the camera without using an additional tool, just with our hands. We take out the spool (nipple) and then the camera itself.
- Check for serviceability of the rim, the integrity and working condition of the tire.
Preparatory step before removing tires
Immediately, as soon as you notice that the wheel is flat, get off the bike. Further long-term movement on an iron horse in this form will damage its moving parts even more. It is better to repair a wheel in a special room. It does not rain on you there, if it has gone, and there is all the necessary tool.
The first stage of the repair work is completed, we are proceeding with the installation of the wheel
- Make sure the rim, tire and tube are free of sharp, foreign particles and protruding parts (such as spokes).
- Pump up a little camera.
- Check the spool, insert it into the rim hole.
- Place the camera carefully in the tire cavity.
- Using a special tool, or another suitable tool that does not have sharp edges, tuck the edges of the tire into the rim. If you can do it only with your hands, then the tool is optional.
- Pump up the wheel, knead the tire. The camera should unfold freely, creases are not allowed.
- Place the wheel on the bike and secure with the screw.
- Inflate the chamber fully and screw the caps on the nipple.
The wheel repair process is over and you can move on.
Understanding the question of how to replace the bicycle wheel camera
There are more and more people who like to ride with the breeze on a two-wheeled iron friend. The number of those who are faced with the everyday problem of punctured wheels is also increasing. Changing them is not the most difficult thing, but skills are needed here and there are some rules. This article will help you figure it out.
- Degreaser. Necessary when gluing damaged elements. Before applying the patch, they wipe the surfaces to be glued.
- Stripping tool. Metal tool to pre-strip the camera.
- Glue. Special glue for gluing rubber elements.
- Patches. Made of rubber. There are several of them in the kit and they are different.
What a cyclist should always have in stock:
Ideally, there should always be a repair kit, a spare chamber, a pump. Taken together, this makes up an impressive weight and takes up a lot of space. For a small bike, this is inconvenient, but it is not always possible to limit yourself to ordinary gluing. What you definitely can’t do without:
- repair kit.
All of the above will help to dismantle the damaged wheel and install a new one, with the installation of the camera.
Dismantling a bicycle wheel
Cyclists, especially inexperienced cyclists, have problems with bending the tire bead using only their hands (dismantling process) In this case, use a special tool made of plastic or metal, of a small size, it is called a pry bar or a dismantling paddle. He helps to cope with this task and to put the tire in place.
Any cyclist can change a tire. Be prepared for necessary repairs, carry tools and materials. Having fixed the bike with your own hands once, you can also help your friends with advice and deeds.
Cycling camera repair: preliminary inspection
In case the camera is punctured, it is necessary to carefully inspect the tire at the puncture site so that the culprit of the puncture does not remain. If you find a hole on the inside of the tube and not on the outside, then we advise you to inspect the rim. If you have single rims on your bike, the tube may be punctured with a spoke.
See that there is nothing sharp on the rim, and that the flipper is intact. this is a special rubber band that covers the ends of the spokes on the rim. The flipper must be replaced if it is torn. Usually it does not break just like that, so you need to find what could break it on the rim and align it with a file.
This happens extremely rarely and usually concerns a factory defect that was not noticed during the assembly of the wheel.
How to find holes on the camera?
Pump up the camera in such a way that it will slightly increase in size and, adding water to the container (bucket or basin), carefully examine the entire surface of the camera under water for holes. In the chamber, a hole can be detected immediately by a thin stream of bubbles emerging from it. After finding one hole, do not end the inspection at this until you have checked the entire chamber, so as not to repeat it all over again.
The chamber can also be leaky from a breakdown, and not just from a puncture. The bike tube can be punctured by bumping into a curb, rail or large pothole at speed. In this case, you can find 2 holes on the camera at once in the form of short cuts parallel to each other. So you can very easily get an eight on the wheel. To prevent this from happening, a stronger inflation of the wheel. 2.5-3 atmospheres can also help.
Replacing the camera on a bicycle: removing the rear wheel
If the rear wheel is damaged, then you need to put the chain at the back on the smallest sprocket (I recommend reading the article Replacing the chain on a bicycle) so that it is not difficult to assemble later. If your muantine bike has a brake similar to the v-brake type, then you need to open it by pulling the brake levers with your hand and remove the arcuate metal tip of the shirt from the groove, where the cable comes out.
Next, turn the bike over. In order not to stain or scratch anything, place rags under the seat and under the steering wheel. If the wheel is secured with bolts, then it is necessary to unscrew it with the appropriate wrenches. If it is normally attached, then you need to unscrew the eccentric, for which you need to bend the lever and turn the nut on the opposite side (do not unscrew it completely) and remove the wheel.
And the rear wheel can be removed more easily if you bend the rear derailleur tab so that the roller closer to the cassette stars is not pressed against them. You will understand that if you do not do this, then the eccentric of the hub from the wheel will bury exactly in this place.
Changing the camera: disassembling the wheel
Then bleed all the air from the wheel and unscrew the cap from the nipple, as well as the fixing washer at its base in case they are. Then pick up the bead of the tire with a spatula and turn it out. And at the other end of the shoulder blade, hook on the knitting needle. The same should be done with another scapula at a distance of about 15 cm from the first scapula. If there is a third paddle with the help of it, it will be enough just to pry off the tire, and then it can be easily removed by hand. As a last resort, small wrenches will do (see picture). The only thing is that you will need to hold them well so that they do not hit in the forehead. The other side of the bike tire does not need to be removed, since the camera is already taken out without much difficulty.
Bicycle camera repair and replacement
To repair punctures in the wheels of a bicycle, you first need to make sure that the wheel is really damaged. Evidence of this can be not only an eight (see the article How to fix an eight on a wheel) and a large hole in the rubber, but also a faintly noticeable sound of air coming out. To check, inflate the wheel and inspect it carefully to be sure. which does not allow the nipple to pass. If the reason is in it, then tighten it tightly.
If it does not help, then it means that the camera will have to be changed because of the nipple. If everything is in order with the nipple, and the wheel continues to deflate quite noisily and quickly, then it is not difficult to find the air outlet by ear.
Bicycle camera repair: patching holes
To seal the holes, it is preferable to use an old cycle tube. It is necessary to cut out a small circle with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. And if the hole is large, then even 3 cm. The main thing is to remember: the larger the patch, the worse it will hold. It is necessary to process the patch and the puncture site with a fine sandpaper: the rougher the surface, the better it will stick.
It is best to sand the patch before cutting it out. Degrease the sanded surfaces with vodka or alcohol. It is best to do this with cotton swabs because they do not leave fibers behind. And there is no need to blow to dry, as the exhaled moisture impairs adhesion. In order to make it convenient to work with the patch, and also not to touch its treated side, you need to stick it on a piece of plaster or electrical tape.
Let’s talk about what kind of glue is best for gluing. To be honest, choosing a good glue is as difficult as choosing the right bike for a child, there are many aspects and pitfalls. Of the instant ones. the best Super Attak Gel (German company Loctite), Super Glue Extra (company HI-TECHO), and Super Moment Gel (Russian Era). To glue them, you need to have a certain skill: apply no more than the required amount of glue, accurately apply a patch, press it quickly and firmly. Only the patch needs to be smeared with instant and second adhesives. On the packaging it is written in detail how to glue them. Use glue when time is running out.
Better to use adhesives that work after 12 and 24 hours. The best glue among daily allowances is 88-CA. 88-NT, Octopus and Master are also good ones. Of those that dry in 12 hours, we recommend the Radical glue. Glue may come off. Moment, produced in various variations. Any of these adhesives are applied in a thin, even layer around the hole to the camera and patch. To make it easier to get in, you need to apply a glue spot about 2 cm larger than the diameter of the patch on the camera. Before pressing the glued surfaces, some of the adhesives need to be dried, which is indicated on the package. Then you can patch the hole so that the hole is under the center of the patch. Then cover the top with a piece of paper and place under the press. For example, you can press the camera with a clamp to a flat surface of a window sill or board.
Insert the camera into the wheel
That’s it! Depending on the adhesive, after 12 or 24 hours, you can gently try to pull the patch off. If already held, then the camera can be inserted back into the wheel, starting with the nipple. Tuck the tire into the rim so that the camera does not get between them. If it is not possible to fill the tire to the end, then you can use the eccentric lever or mounting. Put the wheel on the bike and tighten the gulls or eccentric.
If you have a v-brake, then you need to close it so as not to be left without a brake, it may need to be adjusted. Inflate the wheel slightly and remember the tire well with your hands along the entire length so that the tube fits well. Now you can pump up the wheel to the end.
Field repair of a bicycle camera (Bicycle patches and folk remedies =)
Many bike kits now sell with express camera patches. The kits contain 6 patches. They actually cost 100-150 rubles. The most reliable and convenient to use first aid kit Topeak TGP01.
However, it suddenly happened that the wheel was punctured and there is no spare chamber, there is also nothing to glue, but it is necessary to go and there is a pump, then pump the wheel up to 5 atmospheres.
The high pressure will press the tube hard enough against the tire so that the air cannot escape from the hole, which will help you get to where you want to go. Then it is important not to forget that the camera is damaged. At best, you should always have a spare camera with you.
We wish you fewer punctures and a pleasant ride!
The text was prepared by Roman Borisov. Published: May 29, 2020. Categories: Choice.
- bike camera
- bicycle tires
Bicycle camera repair, how and how you can glue the puncture
Sooner or later, every cyclist experiences such an unpleasant situation as a puncture of the bicycle camera. If you find that a wheel has flattened at home is one thing (although it also requires some knowledge of camera repair), but what if you punctured it during a multi-kilometer ride, for example, somewhere in the field? How to determine the puncture site in such a situation, correctly change and glue the bicycle camera, which glue and patches are best suited for this purpose. Additionally, in this article, we will consider some of the nuances of repair and proper operation of bicycle cameras, for example, we will talk about what pressure should be in them and much more.
How can you glue the camera
Not any glue or patch will work for fixing a puncture on a bicycle wheel. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the topic of what can and should not be used to glue the bike’s camera. There are several options, which we will consider below.
- Specialized repair kits. Many bike parts manufacturers produce so-called bicycle camera repair kits, which are usually a box, a crayon to mark the puncture site, a sander (usually a metal perforated plate or a piece of sandpaper), several patches of different shapes and sizes, and glue. The composition of the glue is specially designed for joint use with the surface of specific patches (with which it enters into a chemical reaction), therefore, using it in conjunction with patches from another manufacturer may not give a result. Fortunately, in most of these repair kits, the amount of glue is clearly calculated for the number of patches.
- Chinese bicycle camera repair kits. Some riders underestimate the power of the Chinese industry and look at their harnesses with disdain. I can’t talk about everything (I’m sure that some of them are really terrible), but for the last 4 years I have been using exclusively Chinese patches from Red Sun (although this may not be a company, but the name of a repair kit). They are quite common. For several years of use, none of the patches flew off and did not allow air to pass through. And the cost of this product is lower than that of famous brands. The disadvantages include that the set contains only glue and patches, and what is most offensive, patch is incommensurably more than glue. Well, these are little things. In general, I advise everyone.
- The third option is the most unreliable and therefore should only be used as a last resort. Here we have highlighted homemade patches that can be made from an old bicycle camera. Almost any plastic glue for rubber can be used as an adhesive. But in this case, the reliability of the patch is very low. Here they say so, at your own peril and risk. When using homemade patches, you cannot use glue, which, when hardened, can burst in places of bending.
- Curing. It sounds good, it turns out very reliably (better than using any glue and patches, given that you vulcanize in a specialized workshop), but in fact it is not worth the money and the hassle. It is quite difficult to do at home (and impossible in the field) and you can easily screw up the camera.
What to do if the camera goes down
If, after you have sealed the puncture on the bicycle tube, it still lowers over time, then you should check:
- Does the air poison from under the patch? To do this, the place with the patch should be immersed in water and make sure there are no air bubbles. If they are, then you will have to tear off the old one and glue a new patch.
- Check for other, smaller punctures by lowering the camera in water. If found, glue.
- Check for air leaks through the nipple. To do this, you should spit on it (or, if you do everything correctly, apply a soapy solution) and observe for several tens of seconds. If it passes, then bubbles will form on it. In case of leakage, tighten the nipple with a special wrench.
- Whether the metallized cord has come out. It happens that over time on cheap bicycle tires the cord breaks down, which is a thin wire (more expensive tires use nylon threads and other materials), which can crawl out from the inside of the tire and constantly pierce the tube. If such a problem is found, the tire should be replaced as soon as possible. A temporary solution is to pull out the protruding cord wire and seal this place with a patch for the camera. But I repeat that in this case a tire replacement is required. this will be repeated regularly.
If the chamber is damaged at the base of the nipple (for example, it is frayed with the rim), then it is better to replace it immediately. As a rule, such defects cannot be repaired.
Tips on how to avoid punctures
To reduce the likelihood of unexpected tire and tube damage while riding, there are a few simple rules to follow.
- Maintain the working pressure in the wheel at the required level. There is no specific figure here, since the nominal working pressure may differ for certain tubes / tires. For example, on mountain bikes the pressure in the chamber should be about 2.5-5 bar, and on road bikes it should be 6-9 bar. The bicycle tire has corresponding minimum and maximum pressure labels. It looks something like this. If the pressure is too low, it greatly increases the risk of puncture. It is worth remembering that when driving in winter or in the autumn-spring period, the temperature outside is lower than in the apartment. Therefore, on cold days, the chamber should be inflated a little more (because when the air temperature in a closed volume decreases, its pressure decreases). Therefore, if you pump up to 3 bar in summer, then in winter you can increase the pressure by about 1 bar (but not higher than the maximum allowable).
- Change tires after wear. With the depletion of its resource (wear of the tread), the probability of a puncture also increases. And if you have a worn out tire, and you began to notice that the wheel began to break through more and more often, you should think about replacing the tire.
On the bicycle parts market, you can find two more devices that are designed to simplify life (at least, they position themselves this way) when cycling. This is an anti-puncture tape and a sealant, which is poured in a small amount into the chamber and is designed to tighten punctures while driving.
Anti-puncture tape is a strip of soft, rubberized plastic or, in more expensive products, Kevlar, which can be glued or simply inserted between the tire and the bicycle tube and protect against punctures. But there are pitfalls here. A cheap anti-puncture, firstly, does not always protect against punctures, and secondly, it can fall apart inside the tire and grind the camera into dust with its fragments, thereby dooming the latter to ejection. Plus, it’s overweight. In general, after sitting on the forums, I agreed that they are more hayut than praised.
As for the sealant, it’s not so good either. As a temporary solution, when you do not want to bother with replacing the camera, of course, you can use it. But the sealant does not seal the puncture completely, but only reduces air leakage. Plus, there were complaints after use, when they wanted to stick a patch on the puncture site.
In general, according to the editors, it is better to use better quality bicycle tires with built-in puncture protection, carry a spare camera with you and not bother with the above accessories.
How to determine the puncture site
At first glance, a very simple procedure for identifying a puncture site can be significantly complicated depending on where you find a flat tire (at home or while driving). To simplify the search procedure, it should be borne in mind that in 90% of cases it is located on the so-called contact patch of the wheel with the road, usually no higher than 2/3 of the camera height. An exception may be damage from the rim (if the rim tape is out of order on the latter) or crawled out iron threads of the tire cord. Therefore, we will consider several options for how to find the hole in the bicycle chamber through which air is released.
- The easiest way is to lower the camera into the water. It is enough to have an insignificant tank, the depth of which allows it to be immersed at least 2/3 of its height. We rotate the camera until we find air bubbles that will burst out of the water. After we take it out, we find the puncture site and proceed to repair.
- If there is no water nearby, then fine dust (which can be found on unpaved roads) will come to the rescue. We increase the pressure in the chamber to strengthen the air stream from the hole and bring it a short distance to the dust (without touching it). We rotate the camera and look at the place where the dust begins to scatter.
- If the weather is calm outside, the puncture can be detected by holding the camera to the wet wrist (the inner side of it). The skin should be wet to make the search as easy as possible. For this method, it is also desirable to increase the pressure.
- With a strong puncture in a quiet place, it can be detected by ear.
Bicycle camera replacement
During long trips, it is advisable to carry with you not only a bicycle tool, but also a spare camera, with which you can quickly replace the failed one and go further. After all, this is much faster than waiting for the glue to dry on a freshly glued one. Therefore, in this section we will consider such a question as how to remove a bicycle tire and replace the camera when it is punctured.
- Remove the wheel from the bike. To do this, we loosen the eccentric (or unscrew the fixing nut on the axis).
- Wipe the side surfaces of the tire and rim from dirt with a rag.
- We lay the wheel on its side and make a mark with chalk (or other improvised materials) on the tire opposite the nipple of the camera. If nothing is at hand, then we remember this position, relying on the side inscriptions. After that, the wheel should only remain on this side. This is necessary so that after we take out the camera and find a puncture on it, we can, by attaching it to the tire, find the place where a foreign object pierced the latter. In most cases, a nail or plant needle stays in the tire of the bike, and if not removed, it will pierce the new tube immediately after replacing it.
- We unscrew the nipple cap of the camera, and, pressing on the nipple, release the air until the edges of the tire lag behind the rim sides. You can keep the camera down completely.
- Then, using a special bead blade (mounting), we pry the edge of the tire, and, resting the spatula against the rim wall, pull its side out.
It is important not to turn it over to the other side until we find the puncture site and find it on the tire (by attaching a camera to it).
Then the punctured camera should be repaired, for example, after you arrive home from a bike ride, or during a halt.
How to stick the patch correctly
After we have found and marked the puncture site of the bicycle tube, we should start repairing it, namely, glue this hole. To do this, you must perform the following operations.
- If the chamber is wet (after searching for a defect), then you should wait until it is completely dry. Plus, it must be completely deflated.
- Using sandpaper or a special perforated iron plate (which is usually found in bicycle kits for repairing cameras), we clean the puncture site until a matte color appears. The sanding area should be 1 cm larger than the diameter of the bicycle patch. After this procedure, we try not to touch this place with our hands or other objects.
- Remove the protective film from the surface of the patch, which we will glue to the camera.
- We apply glue. It can be applied only to the patch, only to the camera, or to both places. This information can be viewed on the glue tube. We also draw attention to the exposure time in air indicated in the same place and the time of complete solidification (the last two points may not be indicated).