How the chain should be on a speed bike. How to replace the chain on a bicycle with speeds. video instruction
How to replace the chain on a bicycle with speeds. video instruction
Any vehicle needs maintenance. Bicycles are not exempt. Their key element in the transmission unit is the chain. Speed bikes have a lot of finickyness to function properly. The frequency of chain replacement or maintenance is largely determined by the riding style. For example, trial cycling lovers do this while riding. When and how to change the chain on a speed bike?
What you need to know about the types of bicycle chains?
Bicycle chains come in two types: lock and solid. Disconnecting the lock variation is not difficult. It is convenient to do this with a regular thread (wire), threading it into adjacent links (before and in front of the lock) and tightening the loop. The main thing is to avoid damage to the lock and not lose it.
Opening a continuous chain is possible only with a special squeeze, although the procedure itself also cannot be classified as difficult tasks:
- It will be necessary to install the chain in the position of pressing-pressing the axle.
- Tightening the pin pull-out screw.
Axial pressing is characterized by the opposite sequence: connecting the links and pressing the pin by means of a screw.
Note. The use of the squeeze is accompanied by loosening of the axle, therefore, repeating the release is the lot of another link.
What tools are important to have to replace the chain:
- The key used to remove the rear wheel.
- Pliers to hold segments and pins.
- Squeeze. As noted above, this device is used to press out and press in the pins.
Chain Removal Procedure in Standard Variation. Step by Step Instructions
Cyclists who do not have sufficient experience in such matters are advised to memorize the general diagram, which reflects the location of the chain on the system, cassette, switches. Then the procedure for its subsequent installation will not cause difficulties.
As soon as all the nuances are fixed in memory (or on paper), you can proceed to further steps:
- Cleaning links from dirt accumulations. If this is not done, dirt will be a significant obstacle to the next steps.
- Removing the rear wheel. The absence of this detail simplifies all actions, although experienced craftsmen safely skip this stage. In fact, it does not apply to mandatory measures.
- Extrusion of the pin present in all links (the metal cylinder that closes the link). This is where the pomace applies.
- Disconnecting one link.
- Withdrawing extreme links from the switch system.
At this point, the removal of the chain (worn out or requiring cleaning) can be considered complete. The procedure itself is quite easy if you have a tool and basic knowledge. Accuracy of execution and the absence of forceful actions during the pressing process are very important.
Step-by-step process for installing a bicycle chain in the form of instructions
With bicycles that have one gear (singlespeeds), everything is limited to a chain canopy on a part of a star configuration and a latching snap-in or pressing in a pin. The design of high-speed bike bikes suggests some difficulties in this issue.
They can be designated by the following points:
- Locking derailleurs on small transmission stars.
- Next, a chain is put on the teeth of the stars. In this case, it is important to take into account the location of the rollers involved in its tension.
- Then the chain links are aligned.
- The chain is clamped and the axle is pressed in or the lock is closed.
At the final stage, the move is checked. For this purpose, the pedals are rotated. Incorrect installation is characterized by sagging of the installed element and difficult twisting. If this is not observed, the installation of the chain is done according to all the rules.
In what cases, besides wear, the chain is removed:
- For deep cleaning when it is necessary to remove lubricant and accumulated abrasive.
- To replace damaged links.
How is chain wear determined??
A failed chain stretches, its links shift, harming the sprockets, which negatively affects the switches. It is difficult to visually determine the degree of wear.
Therefore, they use a simple measurement, that is, you need to measure twenty-four links, or rather their total length:
- With a size of 30.5 cm, we can talk about the normal state of the chain.
- An indicator of 30.65-30.75 cm indicates the need for replacement.
Note. A wear value of 30.75 cm indicates a damaged sprocket set. If the length of the measured links reaches 30.8 cm, then the transmission is damaged.
By the way, cutting the stretched chain does not solve the problem. Stretching is characterized by a uniform distribution. In this case, damage to the stars cannot be avoided. As you know, “star” parts cannot be repaired. It is cheaper to change the chain than to replace more expensive components.
A video plot will tell you how to replace a chain on a bicycle
How to stop a bike chain from coming off. try these simple tips
Shipping the chain can be annoying at best and sometimes dangerous, especially if it happens in traffic, so you need to minimize the chances of this happening by tuning your bike correctly.
If your chain starts to come off frequently, which was not the case before, then something has changed in your bike settings. The first thing to do is to check that all the bolts of your drivetrain are tight, that nothing has moved or hit, and make sure that your rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts.
Let’s see how you deal with other possible reasons your chain is breaking.
If the chain comes off at the front
Adjusting the front derailleur stop screws
If your chain slips off the chain, make sure the two stop screws on the front derailleur are properly adjusted.
One of the screws. sometimes, but not always, marked with an H for “high” restricts the outward movement of the front derailleur cage.
Another screw. sometimes, but not always, marked with an L for “low”. restricts front derailleur cage movement inward.
If your chain regularly breaks off the inside of your sprocket, the L screw may need adjustment. Place the chain over the smallest chainring in the front and the largest chainring in the back. The inner plate of the front derailleur cage should almost but not quite touch the chain; we are talking about a gap of 1-2 mm. If the clearance is greater than this, turn screw L clockwise to move the front derailleur cage inner plate closer to the chain.
If your chain often breaks off the outside of your sprocket, your front derailleur screw H may need adjustment. Place the chain over the large chainring (front) and the smallest sprocket (rear). The front derailleur cage outer plate must not completely touch the chain. If there is a gap greater than 1-2mm, turn the screw H clockwise and you will see the cage move inward.
Read more: How to Adjust Front Derailleur Indexing
Sometimes you can still disengage the chain even if the stop screws are properly installed, especially if you are shifting under load (standing or pedaling hard) Try to reduce the effort (but still pedal) when shifting between the chainrings.
Another way to prevent the circuit from falling out from inside the system. use a chain catcher.
Chain catcher. it is essentially a lever that prevents the chain from moving inward. SRAM Red, Force 22 and Rival 22 front derailleurs have an integrated chain catcher.
If you don’t already have one on your bike, you can retrospectively install the chain catcher. There are different designs and they are all fairly easy to install.
Read more: Lifting the chain catcher (no, really!)
If the chain comes off at the back
Rear derailleur stop screws adjustment
If your chain comes off at the back, it is often sufficient to simply adjust the stop screws on the rear derailleur.
If the chain comes off the inside of the cassette, place the chain over the smaller chainring (front) and the largest chainring (rear). Then turn screw L clockwise until you see the rear derailleur frame (overhang) starting to move away from the center of the bike, you need to move it to a point where the chain can move freely into the largest sprocket, but no further.
If your chain breaks off the cassette, slide the chain over the largest chainring and smallest sprocket. Then turn screw H clockwise until you see the rear derailleur frame begin to move towards the center of the bike. You need to move it to a point where the chain can move freely in the smallest sprocket, but no further than that.
Again, if the chain hasn’t come off before but has recently become a habit, the attitude has somehow changed. Before doing anything, make sure the rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts and the rim is centered in the chainstays, and make sure that the rear derailleur and suspension (the part to which the rear derailleur is attached) are not bent. In most cases, the rear derailleur pulleys should be aligned right under each other.
Read more: How to Adjust and Adjust Indexed Rear Derailleurs
What to do if your chain still comes off?
If you’re doing all of this and your chain is still breaking off, there are a few more things to look out for:
Your front derailleur may have moved out of place, please check if it is set correctly by reviewing our article on how to index forward gears.
Is your transmission worn out and in need of replacement? Switching performance can become less smooth and more erratic as component life comes to an end.
The chain may be worn, has a stiff or bent link, or is clogged with dirt. Visual inspection when turning the handles should reveal if there is a problem.
The chainring or chainring is bent. Again, visual inspection will tell you what you need to know.
It may happen that you are steering the chain at a too steep angle. in the largest front sprocket and the largest sprocket (as shown above) or in the smaller front sprocket and the smallest sprocket. Some systems can handle this (although it’s not a particularly efficient way to ride), some. no.
Your chain may be too long or too short. Before putting on the chain, screw it onto the large chainring and the largest chainring, but do not run it through the rear derailleur. Connect the two ends together and add one full link (one inner and one outer half link) to get the correct chain length.
Your chain is incompatible with the rest of the transmission, in which case you need to replace it.
There are other reasons your chain might come off, but we think these are the main ones. If you think we missed an important reason, please share it below.
The Complete Guide to Bike Gears and Shifters for Beginners
Changing from a single speed bike to a bike with multiple gears. big step. Not only do you need to learn how to change gears, you also need to learn which gears to use and figure out when to change to which gear.!
I recalled this when I received a request for help.
That’s it! Here is the Complete Idiot’s Guide to Bike Gears and Shifting. which explains everything a beginner needs to know about using a multi-speed bike.
Introduction to mechanisms and terminology
Since bicycles came with more than one sprocket front and rear, they were commonly referred to as the number of gear combinations offered. For example, a road bike with two chainrings and a five-speed freewheel at the rear had a “10 speed” because the five rear sprockets could be matched to either of the two chainrings. (2 x 5 = 10, that’s simple math.)
But once you learn more about transmission, you will see that this is a really confusing way of describing things. So, first, let’s understand the terminology:
The front sprockets attached to the connecting rod are called sprockets. If you have two stars (large and small), this setting is called “double”. If you have three stars (large, medium and small), you have a triple setup.
The gear cluster on the rear wheel is an overrunning clutch or cassette. If your bike has five gears in the rear, it probably has a freewheel; if your bike has eight to ten gears in the rear, it has a cassette. Each ring on the cassette is referred to as a cog. (There is no difference in this article between a clutch and a cassette, so don’t worry about that.)
This article will take a modern mountain bike with three chainrings and an 8-speed cassette as an example. Some people would call it 24-speed, but most avid cyclists and bike mechanics just call it 8-speed. ”
Learn How Shifters and Gear Shifters Work
Having gears won’t do you any good if you don’t understand how shifting works, so take a look at this.
Gear shifting begins with the gear shift levers. which are usually located on the handlebars next to the grips. When you move one of the shift levers, the cable pulls or releases one of the shifters. which moves the chain from one gear to another.
In typical installations, the left derailleur is matched to the front derailleur (so it switches between sprockets.) The right derailleur is matched to the rear derailleur (which switches between gears on the cassette).
Let’s first talk about the shift levers (“shifters”).
Each switch will have numbers indicating which gear you are in (this is a gear indicator). In this example, our left radio button shows numbers 1-3 and our right radio button shows 1-8.
The lower the number, the easier the transmission will be. So if both gear indicators read “1”, then you are in the lightest gear the bike offers. If the left derailleur is in position 3 and the right. in position 8, you are in the heaviest gear on the bike.
On the left switch, you will see numbers indicating which gear you are in. 1, 2 or 3. Number 1 corresponds to the small ring, 2. to the middle ring, and 3. to the large ring. For chainrings, larger sprockets equal a stiffer gear.
On the right switch, all numbers are 1-8. Number 1 corresponds to the largest screw and number 8 to the smallest prong. When it comes to cassette, larger prongs equal lighter gear.
Don’t forget about switches.
This is the easy part because as soon as you shift the levers, the shift cable will transmit your instructions to the derailleur.
When shifting gears, the derailleur cage (through which the chain runs) moves to either side. Let’s say you’ve shifted the front derailleur to a lighter gear. The front derailleur will move to the left, thereby “knocking” the chain off the chain to a smaller sprocket. As long as the derailleurs are set correctly, they will do their job exactly the same, and you can focus on shifting!
Before moving on to gear shifting and gear selection, let’s take a quick look at the different types of derailleurs. (We’ll focus on three types that are most common on modern bicycles.)
First, the shift lever. With this type of shifting, there are no levers. You shift by turning part of the handle forward or backward, depending on whether you want a harder or lighter gear, it is very easy to master, which is why it is sold on most mountain bikes in the 100- 300 price range.
Note: Images in this article depict gear levers.
Second, trigger shifters. They are also very common on mountain bikes, but also on road bikes in a different form. (They are commonly called Shimano RapidFire or Shimano STI.)
In this case, you will have two “triggers” next to each handlebar. There are two triggers on each switch because the triggers only move in one direction.
On the left trigger switch, the small trigger switches to a smaller star for easier switching. Larger gear lever will shift to a larger chainring for a firmer gear.
On the right trigger switch, the small trigger shifts to a smaller gear, giving you a stiffer gear. A larger gear lever shifts to a larger gear for easier transmission.
(Trigger shifters sound complicated, but they are not a problem with a little practice with them.)
Basic principles of gear selection
You are now familiar with the basics of how shifters and derailleurs work, so let’s move on to gear selection.
The most important thing here is that there is no such thing as “correct” transmission. The choice of equipment depends on many factors, not least comfort. In fact, transmission is personal preference. so you and your friends are likely to be driving in different gears even if you are driving at the same speed on the same road.
However, one thing to consider. this is your speed. Cadence. it is another word for pedaling speed (basically the speed at which the legs rotate in a circle). It is measured in revolutions per minute, or “revolutions per minute”.
Cadence is important because it directly affects your comfort level. Slow pedaling usually means you are using a gear that is too stiff and your leg muscles tire quickly. It can also hurt your knees. A good rule of thumb. maintain a sufficiently high cadence, typically in the 75-90 rpm range. (Here’s how to count your cadence.)
But aside from comfort and cadence, the middle of your gear range. good starting point. Let’s say you start out on a flat road at an easy to moderate pace (on a “24-speed” bike). You should be in the middle ring (2) in the front and about the fourth largest gear train (4) in the back.
(A good moderate transmission is shown on the left.)
To make small changes to your speed, you will need to shift the rear derailleur. If you need to move a little faster, switch to a smaller gear (5, 6, or 7.) If you want to slow down, switch to a larger gear (1, 2 or 3.)
But if you go on a steep climb or a long descent, you will need to make a big jump in your gear. So instead of flipping the rear derailleur, you flip the front derailleur first.
Example of correct switching
Here’s an example of how you can shift gears while cycling: At the beginning, you are in the middle ring and one of the middle gears. Then…
Let’s say you are climbing a steep hill. You will switch to the small chainring (1). If this transfer is not easy enough. then. you switch the rear derailleur to the large gear (1, 2, or 3.)
Once you reach the top of the hill and the road is level, you can go forward and shift the rear derailleur back down to a slightly smaller gear, going to 3 or 4. Then it’s time to move the front derailleur back to the middle ring. (2.) If the road remains level, you can stay in that gear or switch the rear derailleur again by shifting to 5 or even 6.
But then, when you go downhill, you need to change gears a lot, so you move the front derailleur to the large ring (3.). This should give you a good gear. If you need a stiffer gear, you can switch the rear derailleur to the smallest gears, 7 and 8.
Repeat this process as the road changes.
Just remember: Flipping the left switch makes a big difference. and toggling the right switch. This is a fine tuning of the gear selection You will flip the right derailleur (for the rear derailleur) more often than the left derailleur.
What to look for
If you followed the process of gradual gear shifting. you might have noticed that we only used about 12 different gear combinations when in fact the bike offers 24. Why?
Well, your “24-speed” bike is not designed to use all gears. Some gear combinations are very rough and sometimes dangerous.
You see, you want your chain to move in a straight line. to keep the bike running smoothly. You do this by using certain combinations of gears and avoiding others. (A straight catenary is shown in the previous section.)
For example, if you are using a small chainring, you will want to use the four largest chainrings, numbers 1-4. When you are on the middle chainring you can use most of the gears, but I would stick with the numbers 1-6. When using the large chainring, you should use the smallest gears, 6-8, to keep your chain straight.
If you use extreme gear combinations such as the smallest ring and the smallest cog or the large ring and the largest cog, this is called a cross-chain. Because of this, the chain is at too great an angle, which leads to its rapid wear. (Usually, you will hear some kind of grinding noise from the chain.) This also increases the likelihood that the chain will fall off the bike.
When to go (some more pointers)
To change gears smoothly and easily and maintain a consistent comfortable cadence, you must anticipate your shifts, similar to the example above.
If you are approaching a steep hill climb, you need to shift to a lighter gear. before you need. The steeper the hill, the more gears you will want to downshift.
If you wait until you can barely pedal before shifting down, you’ll have a hell of a painful time trying to climb the hill.!
Likewise, if you are driving downhill, gradually increase your speed as your speed increases. Don’t wait for your feet to spin like crazy!
One more thing to expect. it is starting after stopping. If you are in a large gear, you will want to downshift when you slow down and stop. If you stop while still in a big gear it will be very difficult to start again!
But if you anticipate this and downshift before stopping, you can easily get started.
Technique for correct gear shifting
Switching. there is more to it than just turning the levers. Shifting requires precise coordination between the arms and legs; the better you coordinate your movements, the smoother your shifts will be.
The basic principle here is that you have to pedal for the bike to move. The chain must move forward for the derailleurs to do their job, so always depress the pedal when shifting.
But there is a little trick. For smooth gear changes, pedal lightly and gently This is called “soft pedaling”.
If you pedal too hard, the force of your foot will override the switches, and there will be no shifting, just a grinding sound! (Think about it, your legs are big and muscular, and the derailleurs and chain are just small pieces of metal.)
So here’s how to change:
When moving the switch by hand, release the pedal one step at the same time. You should hear and feel the smooth shifting. Then you can resume pedaling with full force. Don’t worry, you only relax for a second, so you won’t lose speed just by soft pedaling.
That’s all. Most people who are having trouble shifting gears just have to try to pedal gently. It is a common misconception that you have to pedal hard and fast to change gears; correct gear changes actually require the opposite!
Just go and practice.
Getting Started (Practice Improves)
Now that you know what to do, it’s time to do it. But it doesn’t hurt to do a few training runs first.!
The first thing I would do is manually iterate over the gears. Just prop the bike so that the rear wheel is off the ground (if you don’t have a repair stand, just hang the bike from a tree branch or something) and then shift gears while pedaling with your other hand.
Once you see it in action, head to the empty parking lot and ride in a circle. You just want to “feel” the switch so that it becomes second nature to you. You want to be able to ride and pay attention to your surroundings without having to look at switches.
Don’t be discouraged if it takes a while, we were all there at one point! It’s not easy to go from one speed to 24 or 27!
(Think of it like driving a car with a manual transmission. Most people don’t know how to do this!)
Levi Bloom. a seasoned endurance athlete who has trained and competed for over 17 years Former Category 1 (Professional on Regional Circuit) Road and Mountain Bike Rider, now Cycling Coach (US Cycling Certification, Level 3) and Trainer Sports Nutrition (Precision Nutrition Certification Level 1).
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Do you need a new chain? Find an easy way to communicate it
Your bike chain will gradually wear out with use and will need to be changed from time to time to keep your drivetrain working. Worn chains do not shift well, sprockets wear out quickly and sometimes break.
So when should you change your chain?
“For the replacement of the chain, we do not indicate” every x kms “, as this is not possible.” says SRAM. “Chain wear depends on many factors, including maintenance (cleaning / lubrication), conditions of use (water / dirt / sand), user shifting behavior, and overall transmission condition (cassette / chainring wear).”
Cross-chain: is it really that bad?
“It is difficult to determine the exact number of kilometers due to the fact that riders come in different weights and sizes, ride differently, switch more or less often, develop more or less power, ride on flat or hilly terrain, clean or in poor conditions, take care or leave your chain dirty. all of this creates big variables in how much wears out. Joshua Riddle of Campag says.
“In general, it can vary from 3000 to 8000 km, but in some cases it can be less or even more.”.
First, you need to replace the chain if you notice any damage (deformation or cracking). You should also check your chain regularly to make sure it is worn to the point that you need to replace it.
There are several ways to check if your chain has reached this stage?
Measuring with a ruler
You can check chain wear with a ruler, but it will be a little easier if you select English units here because one full link of a standard chain is 1 ”.
Start with one link pin and measure 12 full links. To be precise you need to tighten the chain a little.
In a standard new chain, 12 full links will be 12 “long, but when the chain wears out, the 12” ruler mark does not fully reach the corresponding link pin.
If the distance from the 12 ” mark to the center of the link pin is less than 1/16 ”, your chain is fine, but if it reaches the 1/8 ” (or 2/16) mark, it is outside the point where it needs to be replaced.
If you are using metric measurements, 10 links are easiest to measure.
Standard new chain length 10 full links is 25.4 cm.
If the distance from the center of one link pin to the center of the pin of 10 full chain links is up to 25.5 cm, your chain is fine, but if it reaches the 25.6 cm mark, then it has gone beyond the point that needs to be replaced.
If you want more precision, it is generally recommended to replace a 10-gear or less chain when it is 0.75% longer. that is, when the 10 links are 25.59 cm long and that the 11-speed or 12-speed chain is replaced when it is 0.5% longer, that is, when the 10 links are 25.53 cm long.
If you have a single-speed or two-speed bike, replace the chain when it reaches 1% wear, i.e. when the length of 10 links is 25.65 cm.
Obviously, such numbers are very difficult to measure with a regular ruler, so we recommend using a chain wear indicator.
Chain wear indicator
A chain wear indicator, sometimes called a chain tester, is an inexpensive device that does exactly what its name suggests.
This is Park Tool’s CC-3.2 Chain Checker with a suggested retail price of £ 9.99, although you’ll find it cheaper if you look closely. Other brands offer similar tools.
You engage the bent end of the chain, and if the probe on the other end fully engages the chain link, the chain will wear to the point that needs to be replaced (0.5% wear is measured on one side, 0.75% wear on the other.).
Measurement by eye
There is another simple method for checking chain wear.
KMC advises: “If you do not have a chain elongation tester, you can roughly check by sliding the chain over the outer chainring and lifting it from the middle of the chainring. If you can lift it more than half the link, the chain or chainring is probably worn out, or both. “.
The chain in the picture is almost new, so lifting from the chainring is possible.
Check out our tips for chain replacement.
How to properly remove the chain from a bike. Step-by-step instruction
Answering the question “how to shorten the chain on a bicycle”, it is worth remembering that all actions are performed in the following order.
The squeeze is installed so that its screw is exactly in the center of the connecting pin. After that, the screw turns smoothly and squeezes out the pin. It should not be pushed out completely, only until it is at the level of the second link plate. Otherwise, during assembly, there will be difficulties with installing the pin in place.
The squeeze is dismantled, the links are separated. They can be tightly pressed against each other, and you will need to make an effort to disengage. you should not be afraid of breakage, you can even use pliers.
The number of links to be removed is calculated to achieve the optimum chain length. After that, the extra elements are removed so that it remains possible to connect the new ends to each other.
The ends are brought together and connected with a squeeze, acting in the reverse order
If the chain was removed before starting work, you should first make sure that it is threaded through the caliper. Important! Before shortening a bike chain on a speed bike, be sure to make sure that there are different types of links at the ends after removal. There should be a narrow link at one end, inserted between the ears of the wide.
The most difficult thing in this work is to make sure that the holes match, and the pin freely fits into its place. In this case, after the work done, you will also need to adjust the rear and front speed derailleurs.
Another challenge is determining the required chain length. To do this, you need to change the gear on the bike in such a way that both the front and rear of the chain lies on the largest sprocket. After that, the links open, and the part is pulled together until it stops. A mark should be made on it by adding a couple of links so that the transmission does not overextend.
Fitting the bike chain
Time to put the chain through the rear derailer and connect it
Pay attention and make sure that the chain runs accurately through the drive wheel on the rear derailer
Using the pins: If the chain does not have a connecting link, use a squeeze to connect the chain to the pin already in the new chain. If you are repairing an old chain, always use a new pin instead of the old one. The new pin must be compatible with the chain, its speed and brand. Insert the new pin halfway using a squeeze, then pull it out on the other side using pliers.Using the connecting links: If you are connecting a chain to a connecting link, put it each half on each end of the chain, connect the ends of the chain, assemble the connecting link with tool to put it back in place.
It is also possible to connect the connecting link without tools. Connect it and pull the chain in opposite directions to block the connecting link as tightly as possible. Then loosen the clutch of the derailer, if equipped, pedal until the connecting link is on top of the drive chain. Using the brakes, step firmly on one pedal, tension will go to the chain, and it will snap into place.
How to determine wear on a bicycle chain
Special tool for measuring chain wear
It has 2 gauges. 0.75% and 1% chain elongation relative to its original length. The gauge measures the chain at 5 full links (10 half links) minus the chain roller diameter. For a new chain, this distance is 119.7 mm.
The tool is a handy piece of iron with two gauges for measuring chain wear as a percentage.
The first gauge is designed for a chain elongation of 0.75% or more. If the gauge 0.75% is not inserted between the chain rollers indicated in the pictures, then the chain is in good condition and can be safely used in the future.
If 0.75% caliber enters between the specified rollers, 1% caliber is used.
If the caliber of 1% got in. the chain together with the cassette are sent to the trash, the decision to change the stars of the system must be made based on the specific wear of each star.
Thus, to maximize the preservation of the cassette and the system, it makes sense to change the chain when the gauge reaches 0.75%; if the cassette is not very expensive. in the range of 0.75. 1%.
Measuring chain wear with a vernier caliper
Measurements can be carried out both according to the principle of a gauge for measuring wear (5 full links minus the diameter of the chain roller), and in the classical way (12 full links).
In the first case, the inner jaws of the caliper are set at a distance of 119 mm, inserted into the chain and extended until they stop. The results are interpreted according to the table below. In the second case, you need to measure the distance between the centers of the axes of 12 links.
Further. according to the table. As a last resort, instead of a vernier caliper, you can use an accurate metal ruler.
Bicycle chain wear values
|0. 0.75%||119.7. 120.6 mm||304.8. 306.4 mm||normal wear, no chain replacement required|
|0.75%. 1%||120.6. 120.9 mm||306.4. 307.9 mm||chain replacement is required, a running-in period of the chain to the cassette is possible and mutually|
|1%||120.9 mm||307.9 mm||replacement of the chain, cassette, and the most worn system stars is required|
Checking chain tension with a nail
Did you find the previous 2 methods difficult? There is a great alternative for those who follow a 3-chain strategy (you can use both 2 and 4). We remove the current chain, wash it, grease it and hang it on a nail nailed parallel to the floor. A sign of chain wear, as in the previous methods, is the length.
Of the three chains hanging on one nail, we take and install the one that is the shortest of all. It is logical that the chain just removed (if all chains are not new) will be the longest.
If you take the resource of your cassette equal to the resource of these three chains, then in this way you can change the chains in a circle until the quality of the transmission satisfies you.
True, in the end, a chain, a cassette and most likely the stars of the system are used for replacement.
We show how easy it is to remove the chain from the bike
Since there are many types of cycling, respectively, the design, namely the structure of the chain and its features, will also differ. In the article, you will learn how to quickly and easily repair any type of chain.
Many had to rivet or wear a bicycle chain. During the ride, your bicycle chain has fallen off, by all means, you need to put it on, clean it so that it does not rust. Of course, this is easiest to do if there is a bicycle lock. Such an operation will not be difficult and easy enough to perform.
If not, you will need to use the tool. In the most tricky situations, there may be no special devices or pliers at hand. But you can find a way out of any problem. And with this, some tips on how to remove the chain from the bike will greatly help. Let’s take a closer look at.
We remove with the help of special tools
We will use a squeeze to remove the chain. This will facilitate the task at hand.
- It is worth choosing a link on a chain where repairs have not yet been made (if possible).
- Insert a squeeze into the chain, the clamping shaft and pin must be parallel.
- Fixing the chain with a raised screw.
- Squeeze the pin out by scrolling the knob.
- Remove excess links with squeeze. Press out the pin completely.
- Connect the parts of the chain. The cheek pin is then directed outward. We draw a chain through both switches.
- Putting the links, bushing and pin in the same position.
- Use the pliers to unclench the “cheeks”. The parts will not fall apart due to the pin, taking the necessary place.
- Insert the squeeze into the cell. Pin and stem (their axes) must fit clearly. Rotate the funnel to push the pin into the hole.
- Make sure that the position of the “cheeks” and the pin is identical. Correct if necessary.
- Test and correct the mobility of the links with pliers.
We remove without tools at hand
The squeeze may not always be at hand in a critical situation. There are different types of solutions to this situation. The first option is a diagram of actions on how to properly disconnect the chain with the lock with your own hands:
- we calculate the link with the lock;
- move the pins from the cells with your hands or pliers;
- do the operation in reverse order, returning the chain to its place.
If you can’t do this operation with your hands, and the pliers are far away, you need to use more accessible, improvised means:
- take a brake cable or any suitable wire;
- we pierce the cells of the castle (we circle around the required link);
- crossing the ends of our fasteners, with a sharp movement we spread them in different directions.
The second option is that there is no lock on your vehicle. Since not everyone in the set of tools has a squeeze (we looked at how to remove a chain on a bicycle using it earlier). Further steps on how to disassemble a bicycle chain:
- firmly fix the vice;
- clamp the nut in a vice (its hole should coincide with the pin);
- clamp the screw (wide side towards the pin);
- squeeze the pin into the hole in the nut.
However, such actions can adversely affect your vehicle and can have unpredictable consequences. So in any case, it is better to be patient and, if possible, endurance. Of course, squeezing will also help in a similar situation, so you should keep this tool in the garage.
Recommended to watch
Replacing the rear wheel sprockets on a bicycle
The assembly goes upside-down. By and large, to confuse the sides of the asterisk (which side to put out) tends to zero, since there are guides on the hub. And “backwards” to put asterisks is problematic. But, be careful. with a hammer, I think you can drive a star there
Then, lastly, install the nut. We twist it by hand until it stops. Here, you don’t have to use the chain on a stick, since the rotation will be in the other direction and the hub will not scroll. But I still recommend that you use your homemade tool.
The tightening torque of this nut should be quite strong. 40 Nm per meter (4 kilograms applied to a 1 meter long arm). And if you just tighten this nut with a wrench (without holding the chain), then there is every chance to unscrew the spokes from the wheel.
How do you remove the cassette from your bike?
Alex “On the Bike” Sidorov
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How to remove excess bike chain links
In this article, we will not consider the “old-fashioned” ways to remove links. It seems to us that there are absolutely no problems in acquiring the necessary tool, and more specifically squeeze. Its price is not high (about 4), but the profit is much higher. It will allow you to easily disconnect and remove the chain, or remove excess links, and assemble it back. This tool has two grooves: one for pressing out the pin, and the second for pressing it in.
Further, everything is relatively simple. Having counted the number of links to be removed, disconnect and remove the chain. To do this, insert it into the squeeze, squeeze it with a lock, and slowly turn the knob clockwise.
It is important to do everything very carefully and make sure that the squeeze rod hits exactly the pin of the chain
The pin should not be squeezed out completely, for this you should pay attention to the rotation force. At the beginning there will be a tight move, then a little easier, and at the end again a tight
At the last stage, we act very carefully. Then we disconnect and remove the chain. The pin remains on the outer plate. After we measure the number of unnecessary links towards the chain, where there is no pin (see figure).
We remove the links in the same way and connect the chain back. To do this, using the same tool, press the pin back.
After that, you need to carefully inspect the place of the new connection. The pin should come out evenly on both sides, and the joint should move easily, just like the rest of the links.
You can learn more about the use of pomace by watching the video below.
The sequence of actions for removing the chain from the bicycle without squeezing with your own hands
Squeeze is a useful tool. However, it is not always at hand. What then is to be done? The prospect of staying with a non-working bike in the middle of pristine nature, somewhere many kilometers from the city, does not look attractive. You can remove the chain from the bike without squeezing. It will not be easy to do it yourself, but it is quite possible. Let’s consider in detail the options for parsing the chain with and without a lock.
Model with lock
How to check if the chain has a lock? Easy peasy! A quick inspection to see if the chain has a link that is different from its neighbors. This is the castle. You can disconnect it by sliding the pins on each of the links with your hands or pliers. To assemble the chain, you need to do the same in reverse order.
Model without lock
In this case, it will not be easy without squeezing. And the result will be unpredictable. But, if there are no other options, choose the lesser of 2 evils. So, we remove the chain without a lock from the bike with improvised means in this order.
- Screw an ordinary vice to the table.
- Fix the chain in a vise by placing a nut on one side, the hole of which corresponds to the pin.
- Stick on the other side with a small screw with a cap.
- Clamping the vice, push the pin ball into the nut hole.
Important! In order to open the circuit, it is not enough to free one side. You need to move the link and remove the chain, or add another ball and continue trying. Summing up, we can confidently say that squeeze is an irreplaceable thing on the road for every cyclist.
And if a broken chain with a lock can still be removed from a bicycle without this device, then, as for a chain without a lock, it will be difficult to do without it. However, in case of form major circumstances, you can use the instructions above
Summing up, we can confidently say that squeeze is an irreplaceable thing on the road for every cyclist. And if a broken chain with a lock can still be removed from a bicycle without this device, then, as for a chain without a lock, it will be difficult to do without it. However, in case of form major circumstances, you can use the instructions above.
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Removing dirt with a chain wash
Can the chain links be cleaned without removing it from the bike? It is inconvenient and ineffective manually. But what about those who have no chain lock, but no squeeze at hand? A chain washing machine was specially designed for these purposes.
Easy to use, convenient and compact
The chain washer is a special machine with gears for engaging links and small brushes inside. The cavity is filled with a special solvent included in the kit. When pedaling, all the links pass through the chain wash. Advantages of using:
- no need to remove the chain from the bike;
- easy to put on and take off without deforming the links;
- you can clear the stars with multiple scrolling;
- absolutely clean hands.
The chain washer can effectively clean all dirt from the transmission much faster than hand washing it on the frame.
The downside that can push you away from buying a new bike cleaning machine is its cost. And below is a helpful video on cleaning and lubricating the chain:
Remove and replace chain
Complete the removal of the bike chain by unscrewing the drive pin and removing the chain tool from the chain. Hold both ends with your hands and remove the retainer by releasing tension from the switch. The chain will hook into the derailleur and disengage. If you reinstall the same circuit using the original pin or connector pin. It will be a little tricky but doable. Slip it back through the derailleur, use a retainer, or have someone hold both ends to connect the two ends.
The following steps will help you repair a damaged chain while riding.
Stop and assess the damage. If you have a problem with your bike chain, stop driving and turn over the bike lid. This will make it easier to assess the damage and fix the chain.
Turn the bike over so that it rests on the seats and position it carefully to prevent scuffing
Use the chain switch tool. At home, the chain can be easily repaired using a hammer or pliers, but the chain tool is the only option outside, so you all need a chain tool to fix a broken chain.
The first thing to do is remove the entire chain using the chain derailleur tool if the chain is still attached to the bike.
Use a lubricant. After removing the broken chain, it is better to clean it with a degreaser and water so that the link chains can move easily and prevent the chain from fixing in a short time.
Examine the links. Now, take a close look at the broken part of your chain to reveal the damaged part. And use the break tool to pull the pin out of the broken chain. Each link has two pins, round in shape and attached to the other links. Watch out for the broken link that are connected to the rest of the chain.
Put the chain back on the bike. Now you need to get the bike chain, which will make the task easier for you. Now slide the two ends of the chain into each other so the holes line up and the pin stays outside so you can slide it out from all sides to complete the chain.
Use tools. Use the chain break tool again to screw in the pin and push down on it. Rotate it back and forth until it is loose enough to bend around the gears.
Lubricate the chain. Lubricate your chain with bike lubricant so your bike can perform just like it did before. You can now reuse your bike and complete your journey.
How to properly remove a bicycle chain?
On almost all domestic road bikes, chains are made in such a way that they can be split. One piece of such a chain has a special lock.
And on sports bicycles, it will not work to produce a chain with a split cell, because this lock will interfere with gear shifting.
Recently, however, split chains have been made specifically for sports bicycles.
The need to remove the chain occurs quite often. for example, for its replacement or complete cleaning.
If, after replacing the cassette or the entire system, the number of teeth on them has changed, then in this case the chain will have to be increased (by installing additional ones) or vice versa. shortened (by removing extra links). Under any circumstances, this will require the axle to be secured with chain links.
The figure shows how to properly remove the chain using a chain pull. The sequence of actions consists of the following:
Need to select a chain segment
To remove the one-piece chain, we first need to extrude one line from the bushing. For this purpose we need a special tool. chain squeezing. And to remove the detachable chain, other special tools or devices are not required.
We select the segment of the chain that we will disassemble. It should be noted that during the secondary disassembly of the bicycle chain, it is preferable to use a different segment, since after each operation (disassembly / assembly) the chain link loosens slightly, reducing its strength.
Given the design of the squeeze itself, you need to insert the desired element into the bore hole
We insert the chain into the release device, fix it with a screw with a grooved surface.
(see image. fixing screw shown on the right).
Important detail. Many puckers have two chain seats. In other words, inserting the chain into the squeeze can be done in two ways.
First method: The seat, which is located closer to the fixing screw, is intended for pressing or pressing out the axle. In particular, it is necessary to refuel there in order to remove or install the chain.
Second method: The other seat is used solely for adjusting the axis of the inner part of the bushing. If you try to press out the axle when the chain is tucked in this seat, then there is a possibility of damage to the squeeze or the chain.
Just do not forget that after this point of work, you must use the clamping bolt, otherwise the squeeze can turn into a one-time.
It is necessary to carefully squeeze the axle towards the reinforcing screw
You can safely start tightening the squeeze screw using the handle, while squeezing the axis inside the fixing screw.
If in the future you plan to assemble a link with the same axis, then turn the handle slowly, in order not to squeeze the axis out to the end. Otherwise, it will be difficult to reinsert it later. If you do not have experience in disassembling and assembling chains, then it is necessary to periodically remove the chain from the release mechanism and inspect the axle.
The open link itself should look like the one shown in the image. Chain removed.
In this article, we will try to figure out what a bicycle chain is for, what types of chains exist in nature, how to choose and maintain it correctly during the season and not only.
So, the bicycle chain is an integral part of the bicycle transmission and serves to transfer torque from the drive sprocket (front) to the driven (rear).
This part is standardized so that we have the same pitch for all types of chains, namely 2.54 cm (or 1 inch) for two chain links.
The types of bike chains vary depending on the number of sprockets used in the drivetrain and should be guided by these numbers when choosing. To do this, you need to look at the rear wheel and visually determine how much we have there:
Lubrication and cleaning.
Proper maintenance of your bike chain is a surefire way to prolong the life of your drivetrain and eliminate annoying squeaks and whistles while riding, and improve the ride quality of your bike. The main thing here is that the chain must be constantly lubricated and, as a result, not have any traces of corrosion on the rollers.
Before starting, it is necessary to remove the old grease, as well as the dirt that inevitably appears on the chain. The well-known aerosol WD40 or its analogs will serve as an ideal cleaner here, but if you don’t have one at hand, you can use kerosene, gasoline, acetone, alcohol window cleaners or even an aqueous solution of grease-dissolving dishwashing detergents.
After cleaning, the chain must be wiped dry and lubricated. For this purpose, any mineral or synthetic engine oil is suitable, which should be applied to the chain links with a spill from an oiler, or each link dripped from a medical syringe. You can also use specialized silicone-based aerosol lubricants.
If there is no detachable link, then a squeeze will help here. a special device that presses out the pins, allowing you to disconnect and reconnect the chain links.
In the off-season, it is recommended to remove the chain from the bike and store in a dry place, preferably in oiled paper, in order to avoid corrosion.
Sooner or later, but the life of the chain will come to an end and you shouldn’t be too smart here. the chain must be replaced. Otherwise, using a worn chain there is every chance to greatly reduce the service life of the drive and driven stars of the transmission, as well as the derailleur rollers.
Determining that the chain has worn out is quite simple and the symptoms here will be fuzzy gear shifting and slipping of the chain under load, for example, when driving uphill.