The drum brake (otherwise called “foot brake”) is located in the rear hub of the bicycle and has brake pads inside. The braking process is initiated when the carriage rotates against the movement. As a result, the brake pads are pulled apart and pressed against the drum. Friction arises between the pads and the drum, due to which braking occurs. Drum brakes are commonly found on children’s bicycles and inexpensive city bikes for adults.
Their mechanism consists of two levers with brake pads attached to the pivots on the fork. With the help of a pair of rods, the cable moves the levers, after which braking occurs. This mechanism is simple and reliable, but it is less and less common. It is superseded by other other types of brakes with more effective stopping power.
Brakes for a bicycle, like for any other vehicle, are an indispensable element necessary to control the bicycle and ensure safety. The following types are distinguished:
Drum brakes. 2. Rim brakes. 3. Disc brakes.
Which type of brakes should you choose? To answer this question, it is worth understanding the features of each type of brakes.
Most often used on road bikes, but there they are gradually being replaced by other types of brakes. The name of the brakes speaks volumes about its design: the brake pads are pressed against the rim by curved levers that look like pliers. Caliper brakes installed on Forward Impulse bikes (2020).
This is the most popular type of brake today. Their principle of operation is as follows: when a force is applied, which is transmitted through a cable to the brake levers, the brake pads on the brake levers fit tightly to the wheel rim, which ensures braking. Rim brakes are available in cantilever, caliper and V-brakes.
Advantages and disadvantages of hydraulic brakes?
The main advantage, of course, is easier and more comfortable braking due to the “soft” pressure of the liquid column, the “feel” of the handle and control over effort. The hydraulics are more durable with long braking distances, as they are less prone to overheating. Also, these brakes can be adjusted much less often than mechanical.
A significant drawback of liquid-based braking systems is damage (breakthrough) of the hydraulic line, when service is indispensable.
How to set up and adjust disc brakes on a bicycle
New bicycles are often equipped with rim brakes, or V-brakes, and Soviet bicycles have always been fitted with the only existing caliper brakes. Currently, this is due to the desire to reduce the cost of the design: it is no secret that many cyclists dream of changing the brakes to disc brakes as soon as possible. Often, even when choosing a bike, the costs for changing the brake system are included in the amount.
Below we will show you how to set up disc brakes on your dream bike.
Since the principle of operation of disc brakes is different, it is impossible to adjust them according to the same scheme. Brake disc mechanisms are:
- mechanical. In this case, the braking energy is transmitted mechanically, using a cable;
- hydraulic brakes, which have a specially laid hydraulic line, and the braking energy is transmitted by the pressure of the liquid column.
Advantages and disadvantages of mechanical brakes
Mechanical brakes are cheaper, cables and sheaths (jackets), in which they are located, are quite reliable, more affordable than hydraulic mowing lines. It is also important that the repair of a mechanical brake in the case of a bent disc is easy to carry out on your own.
Mechanical disc brake adjustment
It is necessary to adjust the mechanical brakes when the disc “shuffles”, rubs against the pad, or when the braking has become weak.
We start with the brake lever: squeeze it to failure. If it reaches the fingers, then we begin to limit its free travel: we loosen the lock nut of the machine and turn the regulator out, then tighten the lock nut and check the handle stroke. If you need to unscrew the screw too much, then first loosen the cable tightening. To do this, unscrew the caliper swingarm screw, and after you pull out the cable, turn it back on.
We estimate the gap between the disc and the pads. it is better for the light and against a light background so that it is clearly visible. The illustration on the right clearly shows that the brake machine itself is crooked, and for adjustment we loosen the screws that attach the brake to the fork or adapter.
After that, loosen the screws so that the brake moves freely.
After the caliper has become movable, it is necessary again, as at the very beginning, to “squeeze” the brake lever and fix it in this state by tying it to the grip with a strip of fabric or an elastic band. The clipper is then correctly centered on the disc. 5. Only now we tighten the screws securing the brake machine to the adapter or plug. We act strictly one by one, screwing in the screws equally, at 25% of the turn. After that, release the handle.
After these measures, we get a perfectly uniform mutual position of the disc and pads, without distortions. Setup finished!
Setting up the hydraulic disc brake
The reason for tuning, as always, is resistance to wheel movement, as well as extraneous sounds, for example, creaking and rustling. Do not forget about a simple check: a suspended and spun wheel quickly stops if the pads touch the brake disc.
- We loosen the bolts on the caliper so that it is movable, then we squeeze the brake handle so that the pads are pressed against the rotor
- Now it is worth checking the position of the valves on the pads so that they stand symmetrically and equally from the rotor.
- Now you need, without releasing the handle, tighten all the screws on the caliper.
- We release the handle, check the operation of the mechanism. In the best case, the pads from the disc should be at the thickness of the hair, but not touching it.
- If the pads are still located at different distances, but at the same time the rotor is ideally placed in the machine, then you can do this: press the disc to the pad that protrudes more strongly and work sharply with the brake handle about 10 times. The unevenness of the valve aligns the pads, and repairs the malfunction. It is better to do this together: the assistant presses the disc to the block with both hands, and the other squeezes the handle.
- At the end of the setting, we set the brake lever correctly using the adjusting hexagon. The main thing to remember here is that moving the handle closer to you simultaneously brings the pads closer to the rotor and vice versa.
Let’s say that whatever brakes you choose, you should always be confident in them. And only when all your orders the bike will execute flawlessly, you will get real pleasure.
Loose brake cable
How to determine if the problem is in the cable?
If you have a loosened brake cable, then the brake lever is reaching the handlebars, and the pads are not yet firmly pressed against the rim. That is why the wheel does not slow down.
The main thing here is not to overdo it. You can pass the cable and it will break over time.
How to set up the brakes on a bike
Today Mikhail Kucheev, head of the project “My own bike”, will tell you why the brakes on a bicycle can work ineffectively, and how to fix this malfunction.
To begin with, it is worth determining the type of brakes. The most common types. it is v-brake and disc mechanical.
Fixing Sticking Disc Brakes on Mountain Bike Caused By Misaligned Caliper
The problem is in the pads
Why pads may not work well?
There are two reasons for the failure of the pads: either they are worn out, or they are exposed at the wrong angle.
What to do if the problem is in the pads?
If everything is in order with the cable and pads, and the brakes still work ineffectively, it is possible that something oily has got on the brake surface of the wheel. In this case, treat it with either a special brake cleaner or gasoline or kerosene.
How to tell if your brakes are not working effectively.
The brake lever must not reach the steering wheel. If it reaches, and only at this moment the wheel begins to brake, then this is wrong.
The wheel should stop in the middle of the path of the handle to the steering wheel.
If this does not happen, it is time to deal with your brakes in the very near future.
Why bike brakes may not work effectively?
Mechanical disc brakes
Mechanical disc brakes have the same problems as V-brakes. oil getting on the working surface, tightening the cable, adjusting the pads.
What is the difference between pads on mechanical disc brakes and pads on V-brake?
Unlike V-brake, where 2 pads move, on disc brakes only one pad moves, and the second always stays in place, and the pad that stays in place should be as close as possible to the disc brake.
Otherwise, when braking, you will bend the disc until it rests against the second block. Thus, we immediately have two problems: bad brakes and a bent brake disc.
How to adjust a fixed pad in mechanical disc brakes?
Music used in the video: JK Soul. Battle of life (Gramatik)
Which bike brakes are better. disc or rim
With which brakes to choose a bike. disc or rim? This question is relevant when buying a new bike. There are many models on the market, and each one has its own braking system. Actually, the standard division of brakes is simple. V-brakes and discs (cantilevers, pliers and drums are noticeably a thing of the past). V-brakes are presented by mechanics, disc brakes. by mechanical and hydraulic modifications. To better understand which of them to stop at, we will consider separately the types of modern brakes, their advantages and disadvantages.
Disc brakes with mechanics and hydraulics
By the type of drive, the system is divided into mechanical and hydraulic. The first type of brakes has a standard cable drive. Its main features:
- the efforts from the handle are transmitted to the cable;
- the cable is pulled up;
- the brake pad moves in the caliper;
- under the action of the return spring, it bounces off the disc when the lever is loosened.
Over time, the cable in the jacket springs and lengthens, which leads to a weakening of the braking performance. Within reasonable limits, this problem is solved by tightening the adjusting screws, they also adjust the position of the pads relative to the disc. It is atypical, but there is overheating on the mechanics. Parts should be lubricated periodically to avoid additional friction. The braking surfaces must always be kept clean. Mechanics are simpler than hydraulics in self-repair and cheaper.
The hydraulic mechanism is more complex and consists of the following elements:
- a reservoir with brake fluid or oil;
- leading drive cylinder;
- brake pistons.
When you push down on the brake lever, the fluid compresses and forces the power pistons to move. They, in turn, transfer efforts to the pads.
Oops! Fix (most) hydraulic disc brakes
Advantages over mechanics: softer pad travel, durability of the hydraulic line, better modulation, no backlash. However, hydraulics are more difficult to maintain and require qualified adjustments.
- Mechanical disc brakes are cheaper and simpler, so they are suitable for those who choose a budget bike model.
- Hydraulic brakes require a specialized workshop for the repair of the hydraulic line, bleeding, replacement of components. It makes sense to take them when the workshop is nearby in order to turn there for help.
- Hydraulics are best used in particularly harsh conditions where power, accuracy and braking speed are at the forefront.
V-brakes rim brakes: overview, advantages and disadvantages
Rim brakes act directly on the rim surfaces to slow down rim rotation. The drive handles are located on the handlebars and the hold-down mechanisms are located directly next to the wheels. All this is connected by a cable, through which the efforts from pressing the handle are transmitted.
Such an uncomplicated design at one time cranked a revolution in the field of bicycle brakes, replacing cantilevers, drums, rollers and pliers. V-brakes are still in demand today. A good half of road bicycles, MTBs, hybrids and sports models are equipped with them. They have earned their popularity thanks to a complex of advantages. Not without its drawbacks. Let’s consider each of them in more detail.
Positive aspects of rim brakes:
- low cost of components;
- light weight;
- maintainability in travel and at home;
- high braking force.
The v-break brake can be easily repositioned on the frame of any bike where there are seats for the levers. There are no special requirements for installation on a specific model, therefore budget and expensive brakes are interchangeable.
The overall weight has a noticeable effect on driving dynamics. Rim mechanisms will not affect the bike’s lightness. They are great where speed and acceleration play a big role: racing, driving on highways and city roads.
The simplicity of the mechanism and versatility provide a new positive quality. maintainability. Installing the spare part and adjusting the rim brakes are intuitive, so you can do it yourself.
Compared to cantilever and caliper counterparts, V-brakes grip the rims “tightly”, providing safety in case of emergency. By the strength of the impact, high-quality and carefully tuned mechanisms successfully keep the brand in front of the disks.
- low modulation;
- sensitivity to rim curvature;
- deterioration of work in mud and wet weather;
- abrasion of pads and rims, heating with prolonged braking.
Modulation, or handle pressure sensitivity, is the most important technical indicator of brakes and shows to what extent the speed of a bicycle can be reduced. V-brakes are superior in this respect to their “older” brothers, but noticeably inferior to discs. Of course, the cost of the model also matters. Expensive Shimano or Avid will have higher accuracy. On budget brakes, this disadvantage can be slightly reduced by more careful tuning.
Eights are not permitted for rim brakes. Otherwise, the bike will constantly slow down, and when accelerating, you can wear out the pads or break the distance between them. In addition, curvature of the rim surface reduces the braking force. So, owners of bikes with vi-breaks should always check the wheel geometry and correct its deficiencies in time.
Dirt, water, ice and even oil accidentally hitting the rim are the main enemies of these brakes. Clay sticking will completely remove the brake from working condition, and water can reduce the braking efficiency by almost half. The same thing happens with other materials like oil. Cyclists are advised to carry a brush and soft dry cloth at all times to clean the surface of the wheel and pads.
Long-term use of the rim brake does not go unnoticed either on the pads or on the wheels themselves. This means that over time, along with the decks, the rims themselves will have to be changed. Long-term braking is negatively reflected in the condition of the pads, strength and geometry of the wheel. In combination with other factors (sand, abrasive, small stones), wear can increase several times, shortening the life of both brakes and wheels.
Pros and cons of disc brakes
The disc braking system is a progressive step forward even in comparison with the most expensive V-brakes. Disc brakes on a bicycle work in a similar way to car brakes: the force from the handle is transmitted through the actuator to the caliper. The brake pad, pressing against the disc, slows down the rotation of the wheel. The disc itself is fixed in the center of the wheel and rotates synchronously with it.
Discs. the ability to eliminate wheel rim wear and provide better braking. At least in these two parameters, they should be 100% better than the rims, but let’s look at everything in order.
- no wear or overheating of the rim;
- indifferent to eights;
- can be used in harsh conditions;
- clear modulation;
- longer service life.
When the bike decelerates, heat energy is not transferred to the wheel chassis, but to the disc rotor. Wheels do not heat up, therefore, it is less likely to damage them during long periods of braking.
Since a separate surface is involved in braking, there is no need to talk about any surprises associated with wheel curvatures. Of course, riding in eights is still a pleasure, but this does not affect the effectiveness of a stop.
Disc brakes handle dirt well. The resistance to water is slightly lower, but better than that of rims. The braking surface is not solid, so water is well drained through the slots. As for accidentally falling grease, it is better to wipe it off thoroughly from the discs.
The modulation of even basic discs is so high that even the most advanced rim models cannot provide. A light push on the handle will easily adjust the speed of the bike without stopping it completely. Modulation is stable and does not require constant system tuning.
The pads and the discs themselves will serve without any problems for several seasons of active riding, which cannot be said about the rim counterparts. Here is such an attractive set of advantages, but here, too, there were some negative aspects.
- high cost of the system and individual components;
- no versatility in installation;
- DIY repair is often impossible;
- big gain.
The negative features of discs are diametrically opposed to those of rim brakes. Budget bicycles will not be equipped with a disc system, they will put simple rim v-brakes. Each of the manufacturers of wheels has an individual approach to their design and installation on a bicycle, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to “throw off” the system from one bike and put it on another. If you decide to change the rim brakes to discs, there will be a failure here too. lack of a seat. True, some models still provide for the installation of both, but this is an exception.
It is more difficult to repair disc brakes; in the field, you cannot do without a special puller tool at all. Compared to the v-brake, a good weight gain is felt, plus a mechanical effect on the wheel hubs.
Which brakes are better. rim or disc. depends on the cost, purpose of the bike and operating conditions. On budget models, rim brakes are installed, on more expensive ones. disc brakes. Super-sophisticated bicycles are equipped with a hydraulic system. Where extreme is excluded and speed is important, V-brake is suitable, for non-standard trips it is safer to buy a bicycle with disc brakes.
Determine the type of brake fluid
So, first you need to decide on the type of fluid used in your brakes. Typically, SRAM brakes use DOT brake fluid, while SHIMANO brakes use mineral oil. Remember that not all DOT fluids are compatible with each other, and mineral oil and DOT are completely incompatible with each other. Using the wrong fluid will likely kill your brakes. Therefore, the exact information about the fluid used specifically in your brakes can be found in the manual for them, do not be too lazy to look there.
We stock up on the necessary tool
Almost every manufacturer has its own brake bleed kit. But the general principle is the same for all sets. You need syringes, flexible tubing (IV tubing works great) and brake fluid.
For SRAM / AVID, the bleed kit looks like this:
You also need open-end or spanner wrenches and tor-x to unscrew the bleed port plugs and nylon cable ties.
We pump the brakes
Today our test subjects are Hayes Stroker ACE brakes, which use DOT 5.1 as brake fluid.
- Place a 6mm wrench over the bleed nipple on the caliper;
- Connect the syringe filled with liquid to the fitting using a tubing. You should end up with something like this:
- Without opening the fitting with a key, slightly pull the syringe by the handle, bubbles form inside, which will additionally help to degass the liquid, because the main task is to pump the brakes with new liquid without gas;
- Unscrew the cover bolt from the handle:
- Connect the fluid reservoir (or syringe) to the brake lever;
- Press down on the syringe at the caliper and wait until the air bubbles stop coming out of the handle;
- If you run out of fluid in the syringe, close the caliper union, disconnect the syringe and draw up fresh brake fluid. Repeat steps 2, 3 and 6;
- After the bubbles have stopped coming out of the brake lever, close the union on the caliper and disconnect the syringe;
- Press the brake lever several times and tapping with the back of the screwdriver on the caliper, brake hose and handle, make sure that bubbles do not come out of the fitting; Repeat this procedure until gas bubbles stop coming out;
- Press down on the brake lever and use a nylon strap to pull it towards the grip. Leave in this position for 5-10 minutes, this will allow all bubbles to finally come out;
- Remove the clamp and disconnect the fluid reservoir from the brake lever. Screw on the bleed port with the bolt;
- Done, you have mastered bleeding the brakes.
- Wipe the brakes from possible brake fluid spills. Profit!
Bleeding the brakes, although it requires certain skills, is still not a big deal. You need to thoroughly prepare and not confuse anything during pumping. The most important thing is not to let air into the system, most often it is because of this that you have to pump the brakes. Therefore, avoid any air entering the brake system.
Do disc brakes do not brake on your bike? Possible reasons.
In the article, we will figure out why the disc mechanical or hydraulic brakes stopped braking. A couple of life hacks are described below when all the usual methods no longer help. Rim brakes are much easier to set up and diagnose, so this article will analyze disc brake problems. If in the technical part you are not strong. here is an article about the types of braking systems, and this article is about common problems with brakes. First of all, make sure that shirts, cables, hydraulic lines, brake levers and other parts of the brake system are in place. If everything is in place, you need to check the shoe clearances. take a flashlight and shine on the pads, estimate the distance between the pads and the rotor. If more than 1mm. adjust the clearances, the brakes will start to brake. When the brake lever falls through to the steering wheel. almost always this is a problem with the cable at the mechanics, the hydraulics need to be pumped, or a leak is found and repaired. After these checks, you can proceed to inspect the pads for wear. Worn out pads need to be replaced (article about checking pad wear).
Are the pads new and the bike is not slowing down? What to do? what to do if oil gets on the pads
It also happens that the pads are in good condition, not worn out, but the brakes do not want to work. It is possible that oil, grease, grease or other liquid and greasy substance has gotten onto the pads. In half the cases, this explains why normal pads do not want to cling to the rotor. How to get rid of the oil on the pads? The fact is that the brake compound on the pad has a porous structure that can absorb oil, grease and other fluids. There are several ways how to put the pads in order: First you need to get the pads out of the caliper and thoroughly clean them of dirt, dust and other things. It will not hurt to find the source of the oil, perhaps the hydraulic line is leaking, oil from the fork at the bottom of the pants, from the chain or bushing, excess oil gets to the brakes. After cleaning the pads, you can clean the upper ball of the brake composition with fine sandpaper to get rid of the pressed-in dirt. After these manipulations, you need to ignite the pads or burn out (fry) the oil of their brake composition. At home, you need to warm up the block on the gas comfort from the bottom side. A clear sign of burnt oil. bubbles on the braking surface and black smoke. Bake the pads smoothly and for a short time, do not overexpose in the fire to avoid damage to the brake compound. After “fried” the pads, put them in place, and degrease the rotor and wipe dry from possible oil and dirt stains. In half of the cases, calcining the pads helps, the brakes grip better, but for maximum efficiency you still have to replace the pads. If Focus does not work, you can repeat, fry the pads again, oil may remain.
It should also be borne in mind that this whole procedure can lead to flaking, crumbling or damage to the brake compound. So, if the brakes are more or less reliable and cope with braking, do not heat the pads.
The process begins with a breakdown of the brake system. First you need to remove the pads, and then the brake disc. Initially, it is treated with liquid and wiped with napkins, and only then thoroughly treated with sandpaper. It is best to do this on a flat surface, and not in your hands, so that the top layer is removed evenly, without the formation of new pits and cracks.
A well-sanded disc should be wiped again with a cloth and set aside. For perfect contact, the pads must also be sanded. To do this, they are also first wiped, and then sanded with emery. After cleaning, the entire system is installed in its place.
Trouble with the rotor
- chemical agents;
All this requires immediate cleaning, which should be carried out with technical wipes, special brake fluid or alcohol and fine-grained emery paper.
Why do disc brakes squeak on my bike? What to do?
Today, quite a few people prefer to ride a bike. This lesson strengthens not only the immune system, but also generally has a beneficial effect on health. Very often, if you drive incorrectly or even after buying a new vehicle, you may notice that the disc brakes on the bike creak. What could be the reasons for this unpleasant sound? How to get rid of it? Let’s figure it out together.
General rules of prevention
If the front disc brake squeaks on your bike, proceed in the same way. Experts advise to perform the correct break-in immediately after purchasing a vehicle or installing new brakes on it. To do this, you need to accelerate to 20-25 km / h and brake strongly with all brakes, but not abruptly. It is best to do this several times so that the pads and rotor rub in well and their textured pattern becomes uniform. Often new cyclists try to ride in a sparing mode at first, which leads to the appearance of unpleasant sounds during braking in the future.
It happens that during the lubrication of the chain, fluid enters the brake disc, which begins to cause squeaks. In this case, the surface of the brakes must be wiped with a napkin, and, if necessary, cleaned with sandpaper. To do this, you will have to completely disassemble the brake machine, as described above.
If there is a hydraulic brake system, it is permissible to insert an expander between the consumables.
It can be made from any material at hand:
The function of the expander is only to prevent the pads from being pinched by high pressure.
All sanding operations should be carried out until uniform grain appears on the surface, and obvious irregularities are hidden. The shavings should then be removed with a napkin or rag, and all work only with protective gloves. The fact is that some parts may have very sharp edges.
It is important to regularly clean the brake system after driving in wet weather. This can be done with a solvent, alcohol or gasoline, always before the dirt dries and begins to rub. It is from this that disc brakes on a bicycle squeak most often when braking. Regular preventive cleaning will increase the contact area of the brake surfaces and increase their friction. Periodic processing of the disc and pads with sandpaper will not hurt either.
The reasons for the squeak
- improper placement of brake consumables;
- their pollution;
- contamination of the disc itself;
- contact with chemicals.
If the disc brakes squeak on a new bike, then, most likely, the matter is in an unused system. For correct and quiet operation, the brakes must have a small abrasive layer on the rotor, the bike just needs to be run in correctly.
Converting to Disc Brakes: Adjustable Disc Brake Mount Holder
How to remove old pads?
When disc brakes squeak on a bicycle, brake wear is very common. To completely replace exhausted disc consumables, which often cause unpleasant noises when stopping, it is necessary to completely spin the brake machine. Simply removing the wheel will not be enough for this. The first step is to unscrew the screw responsible for fixing the pads. Some bicycles may use tendrils for this, which will require you to bend and remove the shaft. After that, the machine will be removed from its place. You can separate the consumables from it with the usual push. It is better to do this not strongly and with the help of a hexagon.
Extreme mountain bike
Repair and advice
What to do if disc mechanics does not work well
Many owners of inexpensive disc brakes, mostly mechanical ones, have probably encountered this problem. But do not swear viciously at the cause of your frustration. In most cases, there is an opportunity to improve the situation. Today we will look at the causes of some of the problems with Hayes mechanical disc brakes, they are quite popular among the less affluent cyclists. But all solutions may well suit owners of other brakes from different brands, tk. the principle of their work in most cases is identical.
The main problem is that the brakes do not slow down or do it badly. The reasons for this can be hidden in almost any part of the brake design, from the brake lever to the disc (rotor).
1) Let’s start with the handle. If your handle is equipped with an adjustable load change system, then you need to set the lever on it to the position corresponding to the minimum leverage (for example, the Shimano LX handle is the Hi position). This helps to increase the power of the handle.
3) The brake machines on the Hayes HMX-1 brakes are quite well thought out. Inside there are three steel balls and three variable depth grooves on both cups. When turning the mechanism, the balls move along the grooves and push out the second cup, on which the block is fixed. Despite all the smoothness provided by this mechanism, there is also an annoying minus. When the pads are worn by 40-60 percent, the brakes begin to sharply reduce their braking ability. Apparently the engineers at Hayes decided to use this measure to stimulate the user to buy new pads more often than necessary. This problem cannot be solved by adjusting the cable, it lies precisely in the mechanism of the brake machine. But the solution is pretty commonplace.
First you need to pull out the pads
Next, we cut out the forms from thin plastic (I used a plastic express payment card), as shown in the photos
The main thing. repeat the contour of the pads exactly, otherwise nothing will work. Then we put the blank on the back of the shoe and install it in its rightful place
Thanks to such a simple design, the pads are slightly extended, gaining their original thickness. After this procedure, it is necessary to readjust the tension of the brake cable and run it in so that the plastic shrinks slightly. Now you can really wash the pads to zero.
4) Annealing the pads and rotor. If you haven’t changed the pads for a long time, used the brake quite hard and often drove, for example, in winter or in mud, and your bike lost its experienced braking power at the same time, then a lot of dirt and grease has accumulated on the pads and rotor, which are difficult to notice by eye and so more wash off with water. You can of course use alcohol or the great and terrible Fairy for cleaning. I will admit my brake disc for them, tk. calcination of the disc, in my opinion, can have a deplorable effect on its shape. But it’s better to ignite the pads. I do this on the stove, heat it up and keep the pads on it for about ten minutes, while they begin to smoke slightly. all unnecessary elements burn out. After which the pads are cooled naturally, you should not throw them into the water, from this the coating of the pads may lose its strength.
Here are some tips to improve the braking performance of disc mechanics. I reached all these thoughts myself, so you shouldn’t criticize me too much in their primitiveness, the article is designed for a beginner, but it may be interesting for more experienced people. Everything that is written in it is my opinion, so if you confuse something where. do not blame, but rather write your Комментарии и мнения владельцев. I also want to note that if you have a dilemma of whether to change V-brakes to disc mechanics, then I want to say that in the best case you will get the same brake power, but most often it will be a little worse, especially in the case of buying a used brake. True, in winter discachs behave better V. My advice is to dig and buy disc hydraulics, although this is probably understandable to anyone.