Bicycle Wheel Spoke Machine

Homemade technique

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Homemade wheel lacing machine. drawings, dimensions, how to make a wheel breaker

Reading 5 min. Views 20.3k. Published 14.05.2018

A punctured wheel on a track without a spare wheel is a classic situation that, in terms of frequency of events, holds the honorable first place in the list of troubles for a motorist. The vast expanses of our Motherland add brightness and depth to this problem: there is not a single auto repair shop around, and if there is, then with a solid line.

The most natural solution is to do tire fitting yourself, that is, not to depend on anyone. The solution is excellent, but you need to have some tools and skills to implement it. Where to acquire skills and what tools to stock up on, read here and now.

High road romance: tire service at the edge

Tire fitting on the track can be done using two mounting blades and a special device to tear the tire off the disc. But it will turn out more convenient and civilized if you have a jack and a tow rope. And you can find them.

Tire changer drawing.

Therefore, we continue to work according to the following algorithm:

  • Remove the wheel, clean and put the nipple up.
  • Letting air out of the wheel.
  • We push the towing cable into the disc hole, place the jack close to the rim.
  • We put the cable on the jack bracket, fasten the ends of the cable to each other.
  • It is necessary to rotate the handle so that the jack pulls the cable up, and the landing ring moves down until the tire separates from the disc.
  • If the tube needs to be repaired or replaced, you need to raise the side of the tire to the rim near the fitting, which we push inward and remove the tube under the tire.
  • Take out the nipple, remove the air.
  • Now we place it under the tire, but first we insert the connector into the hole inside.
  • We pump up the inserted camera a little, while without a nipple.
  • We make a beading, insert the nipple into the fitting, completely pump the chamber and put the wheel in its place.

All of these ten points are easy to describe but very difficult to do. And if the weather conditions leave much to be desired, then it becomes completely sad, such a tire fitting will be remembered for a lifetime. The quality of this installation will never be perfect.

[box type = ”info”] It would be more competent to get some mechanized device for independent tire fitting. There are many options for such devices. a wide variety of design solutions can be found on the network. [/ Box]

Is it worth the candle?

Does it make sense to waste time making a handicraft machine when you can use a professional service? It’s up to you and only you. Our business is to provide quality information.

[box type = ”fact”] A homemade manual tire changer does the same thing as a car service. With this functional equality, the handicraft machine has a number of advantages. [/ Box]

  • reliable and durable in operation;
  • more optimal and simpler in design;
  • compact in size;
  • have a manual drive;
  • easily disassembled and stored, some even fit in the trunk;
  • give complete independence from workshops;
  • give efficiency in repair;
  • one of the main advantages is serious financial savings.

Immediately, we note that most of the options for mechanisms are designed for cars. Although no one bothers truck drivers to start building their own tire changer. On the topic “how to make a tire fitting” there is a huge number of quite sensible videos on the network. They will be a great help.

We make a tire fitting kit ourselves

If you have made the decision to become an independent person in the wheel flanging business, the best option would be to have a full-fledged homemade tire changer in your garage. It can be made as a kit: and a side beater.

[box type = ”fact”] The bottom of the machine in the form of an H-shaped frame is made of a steel tube with a rectangular section. The size of the frame is approximately 90 cm x 60 cm. At a distance of 30 cm from the edge to the lintel, a high round pipe is welded perpendicularly by means of welding. [/ Box] Scheme of a tire changer.

The height of the pipe is about one and a half meters. It must be welded in the most stable way, therefore, for strength, it is better to weld “kerchiefs” of metal triangles with a thickness of at least 5 mm. The hub is welded to the round tube. the middle part of the wheel.

At what height to weld the hub. we measure ourselves according to our height. It is necessary that the wheel lying on the hub is approximately at the level of your belt. The pipe must be at least 30 cm higher than the cylinder lying on the machine.

The bead breaking bracket must be welded below the hub. It is best cut from a 5mm thick steel sheet with a bolt hole drilled through it. The pipe for this unit of the machine needs to be found wider, because a lever one and a half meters long will fit in it.

It, in turn, is made from a steel pipe, and the tips are made from a 20 mm steel bar. Think about the length of the lever yourself, it will depend on the strength of your hands and free space in the garage.

Experienced tips

How to do it right:

  • The angle between the beading tip and the lever must be made sharp: the smaller it is, the better the rubber will fit onto the disc. But this angle cannot be made too sharp, in this case the lever will scratch the disc when flanging. You need to find the optimal degrees of the angle.
  • It is better to do a homemade tire changer with your own hands with drawings. You are quite capable of preparing them.
  • Consider anchoring to the floor. lightweight, so it must be securely attached. If the floor is concrete, anchor the machine with anchor bolts. If the floors are wooden, use self-tapping screws.
  • To reduce harm to disks and wheels, lubricate the tips and wheel rim with a thick soapy solution. And don’t forget to wash the wheel before work.
  • Sometimes the wheels can differ in the number of mounting holes and the distance between them. For such cases, we make metal adapters with studs with a thickness of 1 cm.

Homemade wheel lacing device. HomemadeTools.net

Check it out at welwynmachineworks.blogspot.com

Self-made fixture for lacing wheels made of MDF with bolts.

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Bicycle wheel machine. DIY bike wheel alignment machine

Very often, active riding a mountain or road bike outside the city on the road and extreme riding lead to the appearance of unpleasant defects of the “figure eight”, “egg”, “umbrella” and other curvature of the bicycle wheel rim. If you only ride on smooth asphalt, then you don’t have to worry about fixing bicycle wheel defects for years. Although in most cities there is almost no normal asphalt, and therefore, every handy and diligent cyclist at least once in his life had to correct the figure eight, change the rim or center the hub on the bicycle wheel of his favorite bike.

In normal bicycle workshops, the correction of bicycle wheel defects is one of the most demanded services, and it can take an indefinite time from 5 minutes to several hours or even days, it all depends on the workload and professionalism of the bicycle service personnel. What to do if in your city there is almost no asphalt and there are no bicycle workshops, and after extreme rides on “perfectly flat asphalt” on your favorite bike, a wheel bent in three forks?

There is always a way out of any situation! I suggest you assemble a simple do-it-yourself bicycle wheel straightening and centering machine at home. Since the procedure for editing bicycle wheels requires great attention, patience and perseverance from you, and many articles have been written about the editing technology itself on the vast expanses of the Internet, I will just tell you how to make a machine. And you will drive the wheel yourself with your skillful hands.

To make the machine you will need:

  • Galvanized “U”.shaped profile for drywall with a section of 28×27 mm exactly 2 meters
  • M5 screws with nuts 12 pcs.
  • Neodymium magnets 10×1.5 mm 10 pcs.
  • Plastic ruler 30 cm 1 piece.

This picture is a drawing of a bicycle wheel straightener and center.

DIY drawing of a machine for centering and straightening bicycle wheels

The machine is designed to straighten bicycle wheels with a diameter of 10 to 28 inches. The length of the axle of the wheel does not matter because the distance L. between the struts is matched to the length of the axle of the wheel being installed and can be adjusted by moving the right leg relative to the left. To attach the right pillar to a different axle size, you need to drill additional holes in the lower crossbar. I made all the details of the machine from a galvanized “P” shaped profile for drywall with a section of 28×27 mm. There are slots at the top of the struts for quick installation of the bicycle wheel.

I decided to use 12 M5 screws with nuts to connect the parts. Thus, the machine can be quickly disassembled at any time and easily stored in the apartment.

I glued five neodymium magnets to each ruler with super glue.

The wheel is straightened using two rulers attached to the posts on neodymium magnets. This design allows you to easily move the rulers relative to the bicycle wheel rim and track the beats in two planes.

I decided to conduct the first tests on a 20-inch wheel from a children’s bicycle. It had a big “eight” and an “egg” on it. I spent 20 minutes straightening the wheel, after which the bicycle wheel took an ideal shape in all planes. I am very pleased with the result! And I recommend that you assemble a simple machine for straightening and centering bicycle wheels with your own hands at home.

Friends, I wish you good luck and good mood! See you in new articles!

I recommend watching a video on how to make a machine for straightening and centering bicycle wheels with your own hands.

Bicycle wheel straightening machine. Perfect Circle: A Guide to Wheel Spacing / Rider Magazine

So, the motto of the article: “Self-matching will certainly make you related to the bike. From you. skill and patience. From “Ryder”. step by step instructions “.

To assemble a wheel (with a camera), we need: a wheel centering machine, an umbrella gauge, a vernier caliper, a hammer, a blunt punch, a screwdriver, a folding rule, a suitable spoke wrench of approximately 3.2 mm for standard square nipples.

First, we measure the effective diameter of the ERD rim: carefully measure the inner diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rim wall. We will need this figure to calculate the length of the spokes.

Now we measure the diameter (circumference) of the location (centers) of the spoke holes of the hub. Please note that the diameter of this circle can be different for each flange. And in most cases, the front and rear hubs differ in this indicator.

We issue a “passport” for each sleeve. We enter into it the diameters of the location of the spoke holes. Then we measure the length of the hub axle (in this case, 142 mm). Divide this number in half and mark the middle of the sleeve. Now, having positioned the sleeve on the sheet according to the figure, we measure the distance from its middle to each of the flanges (FD) using a vernier caliper. In our case, these are 33 and 20 mm. Note that due to the mounting of the brake rotor, the front hubs are also asymmetrical.

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We recommend using one of the online calculators to calculate the length of the knitting needles. For example, with the spoke length calculator on the DT Swiss website.

Translation of terms for the calculator: Front wheel. front wheel; Rear wheel. rear wheel; Rim Diameter / ERD. type of rim and / or ERD (see above); Hub. bushing; Pitch circle diameter. PCD (see above); Flange distance. FD (see above); Ø of spoke hole. diameter of the spoke hole; No. of spokes. the number of spokes; No. of intersections. the number of intersections (type of spacing, in this case. three); Nipple. type of nipple; Spoke length (precise). the exact length of the spoke; rounded. rounded length.

We pass the first spoke through any spoke hole in the hub flange from the inside from the rotor side and fix the spoke with a nipple in the second spoke hole of the rim from the hole for the camera nipple (bottom photo).

Next, we pass seven more spokes into every second hole in the flange, also from the inside of the sleeve. Attention: under no circumstances use spokes of different lengths on one side of the wheel.!

Having passed the spoke through the hole in the hub flange (step 6), insert its end into the hole in the rim, leaving three free holes between the adjacent spokes. We fix with nipples. That is, in every fourth hole there must be a spoke.

Now we bring the spokes to their working position: while holding the rim with one hand, we rotate the sleeve in the opposite direction of the movement (see photo). Spokes must enter the rim at an obtuse angle.

Finish the rotor side lacing. To do this, thread the next eight spokes through the remaining holes of the same sleeve flange from the opposite (outer) side.

Turning the loose knitting needle in the direction of rotation of the sleeve (see step 9), draw it behind the two nearest fixed knitting needles and in front of the third. Then, as shown in the photo, we thread this spoke into the middle of the three free holes on the rim and fix it with a nipple. We do the same with all the other knitting needles.

There are splines on the thickened (end) part of the spoke nipples. Having inserted a screwdriver or a socket wrench for the spokes into the slot (see photo), we screw the nipple onto the spoke for two or three turns, without using force.

Now we pass the first “reference-spoke” (not to be confused with the “leading”) through the hole of the second flange from the inside. Before that, we turn the wheel so that the tire nipple is at the top point. Focusing on the rim hole closest to the nipple in the direction of travel (on the left), we find the corresponding hole on the hub flange, also located in the direction of travel (see photo). We fix the knitting needle in this position. So opposite the bus nipple there will be no spokes intersection that interferes with the pump connection.

Insert the next spoke into the nearest hole in the flange to the left of the reference spoke. We pass this knitting needle into the hole from the outside, so that its head looks outward from the sleeve.

The remaining seven spokes are threaded into every second hole in the flange (do not insert into the rim yet). At the same time, we make sure that the needle does not fall into the honey triangle with the needles of the other side, but remains free. We throw the third spoke to the right of the reference spoke through it from the outside and insert it into the nearest free hole from the tire nipple to the left (the principle “behind, behind, in front, fasten”). The remaining spokes are sequentially inserted into every fourth hole of the rim so that they do not intersect with other spokes, and secure with nipples.

Thread the remaining eight spokes in the same sequence from the inside of the flange into the free holes. Then they will need to be inserted into the free holes of the rim and secured.

Since all the other spokes are already secured, there is little room to maneuver. Therefore, we take each of the last spokes with both hands and insert it into the corresponding hole of the rim, observing the scheme of three intersections “back, back, front” and the same angles of intersection of the spokes.

Now that we have formed a full umbrella, screw the nipples deeper onto each spoke until the entire thread is out of sight. but no further!

Now we fix the wheel in the centering (straightening) machine. So that the wheel centering line does not deviate to one side, we check that it is firmly fixed in the machine “fork” mountings. Then, starting from the tire nipple, tighten all the short spokes of the wheel one full turn. On the front wheel, this will be the left side in the direction the bike is traveling, and on the rear wheel, this will be the right side (transmission side). Then move on to the spokes on the opposite side.

It is necessary to exclude friction of the spoke heads on the holes when the spokes vibrate. To do this, with careful blows using a hammer and a blunt punch, align the head of each spoke with the flange surface.

We tighten the knitting needles by about a couple of turns in the sequence indicated above (first on the “short” side, then on the side of the long knitting needles). We remove the wheel from the machine and install the umbrella gauge on the end of the wheel hub from the side of the short spokes and on the rim on both sides. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the length of the umbrella meter axis in such a way as to eliminate the gaps at these three points (rim sides on the right and left, the end of the sleeve). Then we apply an umbrella gauge on the opposite side of the wheel (with long spokes).

If the rim is not equidistant from the hub, tighten all the spoke nipples on the corresponding side of the flange by half a turn. Adjustments should always be directed towards the long needles. Check the result of the broach by re-installing the umbrella gauge on the wheel and aligning it.

We bring together both probes of the wheel straightener and bring them to the rim until one of the probes starts to cling to the rim. To straighten the ellipse, the nipples are always tightened only a quarter of a turn. Always the same number of needles is pulled up on the left and right.

Mark the area of ​​radial beating with white tape. Tighten the spokes (clockwise in relation to the outside of the rim) a quarter turn. And, if the beating section covers only five spokes, we slightly tighten the sixth too, so as not to make an eight.

The figure eight is indicated by the lateral beating of the rim on the machine probe. To straighten it, slightly loosen the nipples on the beating side and tighten the nipples on the opposite side until the rim stops scratching the probe.

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Excessive tension can damage both the hub and the rim. To check the tension, squeeze the two crossed knitting needles with medium force. The intersection point must not move more than one centimeter.

After all broaches, the concentricity of the wheel must be checked again. Straighten if necessary. Just make sure not to “pull” the needles.

To prevent the appearance of eights and ellipses, the wheel should be “crimped” after lacing. We set the wheel on a solid stand and carefully lean on it with our weight, after which we again check it for concentricity and runout.

Bicycle wheel straightening machine

Who of the cyclists did not have to look with chagrin at the skewed wheels, the so-called “eight”, after an unsuccessful figure or collision. Novice athletes are especially affected. It is not easy for an inexperienced cyclist to repair damage. Replacing the spokes, bushings and fixing the wheel rim requires even more work.

We bring to your attention a machine-stand for straightening bicycle wheels. The machine is easy to manufacture, does not require any scarce materials. We recommend this construction for sports sections and amateur cyclists.

The main part of the machine is a metal U-shaped rack, bent from 50-60 mm strip iron 5-10 mm thick. The height of the vertical part of the U-shaped rack is chosen slightly more than half the diameter of the bicycle wheel. about 500-600 mm. The distance between the vertical strips of the U-shaped rack is selected according to the width of the wheel hub. At the upper ends of the strips, two grooves are cut out for installing the wheel axle and holes are drilled for attaching other parts.

At the bottom of the rack, a strip 1 of 50 mm corner iron is reinforced, and on the sides the corner is trimmed and bent along the width of the rack. Three holes are cut in the horizontal part of the movable bar: one round. for the lifting screw 4 and two oval. for the screws 7, securing the mounting tabs 8.

Below the movable bar there is a retaining bar 6 made of strip iron. Four side holes are drilled in it for the screws securing the bar to the rack, and one round in the middle.

Under the bar 6 there is a figured nut 5, turned on a lathe in the form of a truncated disc with an internal thread for a lifting screw 4. This nut can be replaced with a conventional machine nut with a suitable thread.

For additional fastening of the U-shaped rack on a table or workbench made of strip iron, the bracket 9 is bent with holes for fastening screws.

The machine is assembled on a work table or work bench using two screws with nuts screwed under the table top. Retaining bar is fixed on screws 6.

The movable bar 1 is assembled like this. A lifting screw 4 is inserted into the round hole of the strip 1. A machine nut 3 is screwed onto it and pressed with a wrench 3. In the oval holes of the strip 1, using screws 7 and shaped wing nuts 2, the adjusting cheeks 8 are fixed.

The assembled movable bar 1 with the details fixed on it is pushed onto the vertical bars of the U-shaped rack. Then the lower end of the lifting screw 4 is passed through the round hole of the bar 6 and a figured nut 5 is screwed onto it. Further lowering of the movable bar 1 is carried out by rotating the figured nut 5.

After the main parts of the machine are assembled, an additional bracket 9 is fixed on the table using screws and nuts. The upper ends of the bracket 9 are fixed in the strips of the U-shaped rack on the thread with screws.

Installing the dressing wheel

The axle of the wheel is fixed with thumbs in the grooves of the U-shaped rack. By rotating the figured nut 5, the movable bar 1 is brought to the wheel. The wheel is scrolled, the “ovality” of the wheel rim is adjusted and adjusted. Adjusting cheeks 8 are brought to the rim and fixed with thumbs. The skew (“figure eight”) of the wheel is leveled. As the skew is corrected, the locating cheeks move closer and closer until the defect is completely eliminated.

Wheel Traction and Rotor Straightening Machine. Pro Truing Stand.

We started by adjusting the rubber bumpers on the back of the base to eliminate any possible vibration in the strut. It is difficult to say exactly how these fluctuations were manifested in general, but it was not difficult to eliminate them. The position of the plastic spring-loaded indicator is easily adjusted using the convenient handle. One of the main advantages of this indicator is that it does not harm the decals on the rims. over, it allows you to more visually broach the wheel, focusing more on visual information than sound. No more “turn off the music for a second!” in bike shops.

Usually, the rotor straightening mechanism, or an additional slot for it, is optional on such machines and requires a separate purchase. Fortunately, the rotor straightening slot is included with this machine and is very easy to use. It simulates the distance between the brake pads inside the caliper. So you can just center the rotor and track where it has deviations in the plane. We made sure of this by simply mounting the wheel with the rotor inward, and double checking our rotors within 30 seconds after each wheel pull.

When Feedback Sports announces that they can stretch 29 ”wheels on their machine without removing the rubber, they are a bit overwhelmed. We were able to fit a 3 ”tire on the machine without any problems. And the machine itself stood very firmly even with the massive wheel untwisted. As with the Lefty fork, it just takes a little time to get used to just one wheel attachment point. And, as you can see in the picture below, we managed to shove a 29×3 ”Knard 29×3” tire onto the machine, and there was still some free space.

The black plate, to which the machine tripod is attached directly, can be unscrewed from the chrome base and hung where necessary. on a workbench or wall. with four bolts. Of course, using a conventional chrome platform is unlikely to achieve the same stability and rigidity as in the case of a stand bolted to concrete, however, it gives you a certain advantage. the ability to be free from everything, complete mobility, so make your choice.

Another useful feature of the machine, which is worth mentioning, is the ability to detach it from the base and install it on any Feedback Sports Repair Stand within a few seconds. This allows not only to fix the machine at the required height, but also makes it possible to rotate it relative to the rack 360 degrees.

To summarize, the Feedback Sports Pro Truing Stand is paying its full price. Integration with the rotor straightening mechanism, as well as the inclusion of 12mm and 15mm quick-release axles and adapters, are things that you usually have to pay extra for. The chrome base provides excellent mobility and ease of transport, and is perfect for those mechanics who do not particularly like to screw something to their workbench. And in the case of this machine, the quality of work and functionality are not sacrificed for increased mobility, as is usually the case.