Speed selector setting
In order not to keep the bike suspended while tuning, try hanging it from the saddle, thereby raising the rear wheel. You can also use an ironing board for this. We put the bike with the upper tube of the frame on the ironing board plate, threading it into a triangle.
Setting up the front derailleur is straightforward. We will write it down point by point for greater clarity.
- We set the lowest speed using the switch on the steering wheel (remember that at this stage the cable should not be attached to the crossover). We twist the adjustment of the tension of the gearshift cable on the shifter until it stops clockwise (if you look at the entrance of the shirt into the shifter) and return it back 1-2 turns. Many recommend tightening completely, but as practice shows, for further fine tuning, it is better to leave a margin for tension / loosening of the cable in both directions.
- Set the lowest speed on the rear derailleur (largest sprocket). As a result, you will get the first speed front and rear (the chain should be on these stars).
- We adjust the limit switch “L” so that the inner part of the frame is as close to the chain as possible, but does not touch it when pedaling. To do this, if you need to move the frame towards the bike frame, you should turn the bolt L counterclockwise, from the frame. clockwise.
- We insert the cable into the place of fixation on the gear selector and, pulling it (with your hands, do not use pliers), tighten the cable bolt.
- We switch gears from the front to the largest star, from the back to the smallest (the chain should be on these stars).
- We adjust the limiter “H”. It is necessary to achieve such a position of the guide frame in which its outer part is as close to the chain as possible, but does not rub against it when pedaling. To move the frame towards the frame, turn the screw clockwise, in the opposite direction. counterclockwise.
- We set the 5th speed on the rear cross-over. After that, turning the pedals, we change the speeds with the front derailleur over the entire range (3. 2. 1. 2. 3) several times. Then set speed 2 to the front and, shifting reverse gears, check that there is no friction between the chain and the frame in positions 2. 2 and 2. 7 (example for 24 speed bicycles). expensive front derailleurs can achieve frictionlessness even at 2-1 and 2-8 (although you should be aware that these are not normal modes and should not be used when driving). If there is friction of the chain against the frame in these positions or an indistinct gear shifting, then the cable tension should be adjusted by rotating the adjustment on the front shift lever. In case of problems when switching from a smaller chainring to a larger one, tighten the cable (turn the adjustment counterclockwise), and when it is impossible to switch from a larger to a smaller one, loosen it (turn the adjustment clockwise). If there are no Комментарии и мнения владельцев on the work, then the next test must be performed under load when driving on roads.
- We find a flat section of the road (without bumps and slopes) and check the operation of the front crossover while driving. In case of any problems when switching, right on the go, we rotate the adjustment on the shifter in the direction we need.
If you do not understand something about how to set up the front derailleur, then we advise you to watch a video on this topic.
Why can’t I adjust the front derailleur
If you have not been able to clearly adjust the front derailleur of your bike several times, then most likely you have one of the following problems:.
- Wrong switch or star system.
- The switch is deformed or out of order.
- Tight running of the cable in the shirt.
- The shifter is out of order.
- The chain is too stretched.
- Derailleur, cable and chain are heavily soiled.
Adjusting and adjusting the front derailleur of the bike
After you have made all the preparatory measures, you can proceed to the adjustment and tuning. If you install a new derailleur or remove it during cleaning, then before adjusting it should be positioned relative to the chainrings, and then proceed with the adjustment.
Gear shifting problems? Learn how to adjust the rear derailleur for smooth, quiet shifting
Shifting problems are always frustrating, but in some cases they can even damage your bike or cause an accident. If you are experiencing constant clicking when pedaling, inconsistent shifting, or if you are unable to shift to some of the gears on the cassette, knowing how to adjust the rear derailleur can help you solve or at least diagnose your problem. Below are some of common problems that can cause shifting problems and basic rear derailleur settings to help you shift a little easier. Stay tuned for more in future articles on front derailleur adjustments and cable and housing replacement.
Front derailleur adjustment
The front derailleur must be properly aligned to operate effectively. Make sure the outside of the cage is parallel to the chainrings. Also, make sure the bottom edge of the outer race is 2-3mm above the top of the teeth of the large ring.
Once the position is right, switch to the smallest chainring to check your inner stop screw. The inside of the cage should be close to the chain, but not touching it, with a gap of approximately 1-2 mm. Then make sure there is no excess slack in the cable. Tighten securely, but not too tightly if required.
Now move the rear derailleur to the smallest gear and the front derailleur to the largest sprocket. The outside of the front derailleur cage should be 1-2mm from the chain. If the chain chases the outer race, try moving it. If friction stops while doing this, you need to increase the cable tension by going back to the small chainring and pulling the cable harder, or using the linear barrel adjuster if you have one.
If you change the shift and the friction persists, then the outer stop screw is too tight and must be loosened (counterclockwise) until friction ceases. If the tuning is correct and you have a middle chainring, there is no need for further adjustments as it will be tuned according to the work you have done with the inner and outer chainrings.
B Tension screw
The tension screw “B” affects the angle of inclination of the switch housing. If this option is disabled, it may cause inaccurate switching.
Shift to the second largest gear in the cassette. If the top pulley is very close to the largest tooth or touches the largest tooth, the tension “B” is too low. Tighten the screw by turning it clockwise to move the pulley further away from the cassette. If the tension screw “B” is too tight, the pulley will be far from the cassette, resulting in inaccurate shifting.
In the modern world, there are many companies that create equipment for bicycles. The best quality models are made by corporations such as Shimano (Japan) and Sram (America), which make complete derailleur mowing lines.
- Shimano XTR, Sram ESP 9.0 and Sram ESP X.0 are leading the way in price and quality. They are mainly used in competition bicycles. They are characterized by low construction weight.
- Shimano deore xt, Shimano Saint, Shimano slx finished second in the same category. Used in bicycles with 27 gears.
- Shimano Deore LX, Shimano Dura-Ace, Shimano Hone. 3rd place. They are designed for devices with the maximum number of speeds.
- Sram ESP 7.0 and Shimano Deore are similar designs. Made from highly durable components and designed for 24 gears.
- Sram ESP 4.0, Sram ESP 5.0, Shimano Nexave and Shimano alivio are cheaper than the professional line. They can handle up to 24 speeds and are designed for touring bike models.
- The Sram ESP 4.0, Shimano C201 and Shimano acera are bundled with the cheaper entry-level hybrids and mountain bikes. Withstand up to 24 gears.
- Sram ESP 3.0, Shimano Nexus and Shimano altus are designed for touring, city bikes.
- The Shimano tourney is built for a calm, smooth ride. Shifts 21 gears.
There is no fundamental difference in the adjustment and operation of different switch lines from the same company. For example, different Shimano derailleur groups work the same and are interchangeable. Let’s say that the drive of eight-speed Alivio, Altus, Acera switches can be equipped with nine-speed Deore, Deore XT, Deore LX, XTR systems and vice versa.
How to properly switch gears on a bike: some practical tips
Every cyclist should know how to properly switch speeds on a bike. Correct gear shifting will allow you to drive much faster and more comfortably with less effort and, moreover, it will increase the life of the sprockets and chain.
The first thing I would like to note is, always select the gear so that it is easy to pedal (cadence 80-110 rpm).
So, what you need to know to properly shift bike speeds?
How To Fix Chainring Wobble
Modern bicycles have a chain drive. This means that when the cyclist pedals, he transfers the force from the pedals to the cranks, and then to the system stars, which are located on the front wheel (leading), and then, accordingly, to the driven cassette stars. Ending effort on spinning the wheel.
If we consider switching speeds, then the essence is to drag the chain from one star to another. Of course, while choosing the correct star size.
Let’s take an example of the correct speed shifting algorithm. We put the middle sprocket in front and start off. We select the gear with the rear derailleur, taking into account that there is no heavy load on the legs.
If the road goes uphill, then we throw the chain onto the large star in front. We carry out this principle of action with low gears, when we are going uphill, and there is not enough range of cassettes, with the middle front sprocket turned on, then we go to small.
Most importantly, remember that the middle chainring is the working chainring, only there will be no significant chain skew from it. If you take into account all of the above while cycling, then the transmission will last for a very long time.
This defect is regulated by a drum on a shifter.
Speed change mechanism
The operation of the rear and front derailleur is as follows: if the cable is pulled, the derailleur frame moves the chain to higher sprockets. If, on the contrary, weaken the cable, then the frame will throw the chain onto smaller stars.
The speeds are switched with the help of shifters (coins) located on the steering wheel. The rear derailleur is adjustable with the right shifter. Thus, the chain jumps between the rear sprockets. And the front derailleur is adjustable with a shifter on the left side. So the chain jumps among the chainrings.
Preparing to set up
If you are going to tweak gear shifting, you should start with the rear derailleur, as this will affect the front derailleur. Before the adjustment procedure, you need to make sure that the devices are not damaged or deformed, that they work correctly with each other. It is necessary to check the degree of their deterioration and, if necessary, replace the old elements. It is necessary to clean all dirty elements, remove traces of oil, dust.
How to set up the front shifting system
This switch is much easier to adjust than the rear switch. First, carry out the same actions as with the rear mechanism, namely, tighten the screws and pull the cable, put it in the groove next to the bolt.
Front derailleur features
The front derailleur has the following structural elements:
- high gear (H) and low (L) limiter;
- frame made of inner and outer edges with fastening screw.
Thanks to the design of this device, the chain is transferred to the chainrings. There is a special moving frame, it is through it that the chain goes. When we set the speeds, the frame advances and becomes under the desired star, it is she who carries the chain.
The front derailleurs, in comparison with the rear ones, have differences in some mounting parameters, but they all have one thing in common. they are not able to move the chain in the presence of any load.
Adjustment of the front derailleur will be needed if there are malfunctions when setting speeds or when there is friction, unnatural sounds.
Disadvantages of rear derailleurs:
negative influence of surrounding factors on the mechanism;
Derailleurs are more likely to fail if a cyclist falls with his four-wheeled friend;
How To Adjust A Front Derailleur
The movement of the device together with the chain in the same direction is performed by tensioning the cable, and in the opposite direction. by a return spring.
How to adjust the rear shift mechanism?
Check the chain tensioner for bent before starting adjustment. We move it to the highest speed. We unscrew the anchor bolt, and make the cable weaker. We screw the regulating elements on the lever of the device and on the shifter to the end.
The point of adjustment is to put the rollers on the same level with a small asterisk. When we tighten the limiting screw clockwise, the frame will move to the spokes, and if vice versa, backward, away from the spokes.
Now we move on to pulling the cable, it should be placed in the groove directly next to the fixing bolt, tighten the cable. We fix it with an anchor screw.
The low speed restrictor screw is indicated by (L) high (H) it is important to tighten correctly, if this is done loosely, the chain will fly off the large sprocket or get stuck next to the spokes. If this is done very strongly, then the chain may not translate to a large star. So, the chain must be transferred to a low speed and unscrew the stop screw.
Now, on the contrary. we put the rollers of the switching device on the same level with the big star. Tighten the screw clockwise.
Now precise regulation is in progress. It is done with a regulating drum, which is placed on the shifter. The shifter is set to the highest speed. We set it to the next speed and pedal forward. the chain should move to the next sprocket. If this does not happen, it means that the cable is poorly tensioned. Turn the drum halfway and try again. To reinstall on large stars, you need to pull the cable, on small ones. soften.
So, for fine tuning, you need to transfer the chain from the back to a large sprocket. Unscrew the adjusting screw counterclockwise, the roller will go up. The chain will become taut and the clarity of the gears will increase. The roller must not catch on the star! Better to keep a 5mm gap.
The rear shifting device is designed to move the chain from one cassette sprocket to another, with additional chain tensioning. There are several differences between front and rear gear:
- frame. shifts the chain between the cassette stars, closes with rollers on both sides;
- guide roller. the chain hits it first, it guides it;
- tensioner roller. responsible for chain tension;
- parallelogram mechanism. a bundle of several frames, which are pulled by a spring;
- stop screws. needed to limit the travel of the switch to a smaller or larger star
- the spring is the most important element, it is responsible for returning or pressing the frame in one direction (that is, for the mobility of the entire mechanism).
Reasons for incorrect gear shifting at the rear derailleur:
- the cable is stretched;
- the return spring is poorly functioning;
- the cock is deformed (part to preserve the integrity of the frame and rear derailleur);
- the system itself was deformed.
There are several important parameters that affect the function and regulation of the speed derailleurs (rear type):
- size limit of a large star;
- bike type (road bike derailleur will not work for mountain bike and vice versa);
- capacity (maximum difference between the dimensions of the smallest and largest stars in the cassette);
- derailleur pitch (with respect to cable lengthening and device movement, for example, Shimano devices do not align with Sram in this property);
- type of attachment (with a removable / non-removable cock, directly to the frame);
- thrust (if the thrust is straight, then the cable transfers the chain to the large stars, and the return spring. to the smaller ones.