Bicycle Shifting Tightly

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Communities DRIVE2 Audi 80 Club Blog Bad gears. Clutch. Video Repair of an automatic transmission

The recording shows how the automatic transmission repair process goes.

Starter bikes have the cheapest transmissions, and the gears are poorly shifted and jammed. In these cases, the owners cannot do anything, since they realize that they are managing cheap garbage. But after a while, faced with similar switching problems after buying more expensive equipment or a bicycle, people tend to be puzzled.

The point here, of course, is not fate, but the wrong attitude to technology. An experienced cyclist can quickly determine the drivetrain level. The point is that its disordered work is not always associated with the class, but more depends on the setting and state. Let’s try to list most of the factors causing such problems.

bicycle, shifting, tightly

If you happen to take off your shirts, and the cable is not dirty or damaged, it is worth wiping it with a rag, then sprinkling Teflon grease on it, which will leave a thin slippery layer on it. Shirts worth shedding WD40. It is necessary to extract all the dirt to the maximum, because during the ride it, most likely, has accumulated a lot

It is important to consider the following thing here. the cables and shirts do not need lubrication. Dense lubricants, like grease, are strongly discouraged.

After a couple of trips on the ground, a consistency will accumulate in the shirts, consisting mainly of dirt.

There are teflon-coated cables that are slightly more expensive than conventional cables. The difference in gear changes is already noticeable on the first drive. Of course, the coating wears off over time, especially in places of frequent interaction with the shirt. Solution: Supplied with them in sets, spouts that prevent the ingress of dirt and dust. If we talk about shirts, then they should not have long or short sections. Better to spend a little, but make the shirt a single whole. In places of bends, friction increases many times and the formation of dirt does not keep you waiting.

Deformed rear derailleur bracket

There are times when a seemingly perfectly tuned rear derailleur malfunctions, despite new cables and shirts. The reason may be that the bike was caught somewhere during transport and the bracket bent slightly. If it is not possible to establish a clear gear change, then it is worth removing the cock and putting it on the table. Crooked? Need to fix

But it’s important not to overdo it, as aluminum cracks. Alternatively, put it back on the bike and try to straighten it with your hands

Rear derailleur free play To check for play, simply move the rear derailleur. During such a procedure, he should be absent. With low free travel, especially in the minimum transmission groups, there is nothing to worry about. But during operation, the backlash tends to increase, and then delays in switching or fuzziness can begin. If everything is normal with the ropes and the rooster, fine tuning will help get rid of the negative effect.

Poor gear shifting on a bicycle is a common problem. Dirt stuck in shirts, a bent bracket, a derailleur free play, poor tuning. it all comes together. Many consider this to be the norm and continue to drive. The speeds are switched according to the principle “two forward, one back”. You can not do it this way! Any drivetrain, even the smallest Shimano Tourney, needs to precisely flip the chain when shifting.

Maintaining the transmission on time and keeping the components clean are 2 conditions to avoid problems while riding.

One of the reasons for poor gear shifting can be an unlubricated or dirty chain. We share with you a video on the correct ways to clean the chain.

On hot gears are poorly turned on the main causes of manual transmission malfunctions

The manual transmission is designed to transmit torque from the internal combustion engine to the driving wheels of the vehicle, as well as to stepwise change the gear ratio. In a manual transmission, gear shifting (steps) is carried out manually by the driver, who also selects the optimal gear ratio, ensuring the best operating mode of the internal combustion engine while the car is moving.

In the case when speed switching problems arise when the internal combustion engine is heated, the main features can be distinguished:

  • reverse gear turns on poorly;
  • the inclusion of gears from high speed to low speed and vice versa is accompanied by extraneous noise, grinding or crackling;
  • complete lack of the ability to shift gears;

The main causes of manual transmission malfunctions:

  • low oil level in the box;
  • poorly adjusted or damaged rocker;
  • malfunctions in the clutch mechanism;
  • destruction or deformation of gears;
  • wear of shaft bearings;
  • failure of synchronizers.

So, often, when heated, gears are poorly engaged due to a low oil level in the manual transmission. Taking into account the decrease in the level of the lubricating fluid, the coefficient of friction between the rubbing parts increases, which leads to a difficult and fuzzy engagement of gears.

Still often “hot” does not turn on the reverse gear due to a faulty backstage. This is a common cause of reverse shift problems due to improper adjustment or wear on the rocker mechanism. In fact, there is a shift in tolerances when the gearshift mechanism moves (as a result of wear on the rocker joints or incorrect adjustments).

At the same time, if the rocker mechanism is worn out, when the manual transmission is not heated, the speeds can be switched on without difficulty. But when heated, the parts of the box expand, respectively, the gaps change

Taking into account the fact that in order to prevent backlash of manual transmission mechanisms, the parts are ground in with the smallest tolerances, the loose rocker mechanism greatly affects the clarity of the gears in the gearbox (reverse gear is no exception). The problem is solved by adjusting the backstage mechanism or replacing

Also, when heated, the gears are poorly included in the event that the clutch is faulty. Failure of the clutch mechanism is directly related to difficult gear shifting. On a worn clutch disc, due to its insufficient thickness, the speed of the manual transmission does not turn on very well.

The inclusion itself is often accompanied by a crunch and crackle of the gears of the box, and the gears may not be included at all. Even while driving (especially in active mode), the clutch disc “slips”, not transmitting all the torque from the engine to the transmission.

You can also highlight the reasons for the incorrect operation of the manual transmission clutch drive mechanism:

  • jamming of the mechanical clutch drive (cable);
  • breakage of the clutch fork;
  • fluid leakage from the circuit;

By the way, in the latter case (in the presence of a hydraulic drive of the clutch mechanism), there are such malfunctions as: fluid leakage through loose system pipes, cracked oil seals, a failed release bearing, an initially insufficient fluid level in the circuit, etc.

At the end of the list of common reasons why gears are turned on poorly on hot, a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. The reason for the poor engagement of manual transmission gears is internal malfunctions of gearbox assemblies and mechanisms: wear of gears, shaft bearings, synchronizers, etc.

Wear can occur as a result of the “actuation” of mechanisms, as well as due to a defect in parts, admitted by the manufacturer during the release of this unit. The problem is solved by conducting a comprehensive diagnostics of the gearbox and subsequent repair of the unit at a specialized service station.

Gears are tightly included: reasons. Why gear changes are bad

When gears are poorly shifted, driving becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Let’s look at the main reasons why gear changes are poor or not at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission are too different, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear shifting on a car with manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch malfunction when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic bang. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And, finally, the third. excessive wear of gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch faults in which manual transmission gears are poorly shifted:

  • Airing of the clutch release hydraulic drive or fluid leaking from it. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the failed components of the hydraulic system and pumping it.
  • Worn or broken clutch release fork. Requires replacement or repair of a part.
  • Warping (runout more than 0.5 mm) or too thick a new driven disc.
  • Failure of the basket (thermal deformation of the pressure plate or its distortion).
  • Loss of mobility of the support bearing of the input shaft of the gearbox (at the end of the crankshaft to which the flywheel is attached).
  • Jamming of the clutch disc hub on the gearbox input shaft splines. To eliminate the defect, clean the splines of the hub and the input shaft of the gearbox. It will not hurt to lubricate them with lithol.
  • Too much free play of the clutch release fork. Its value must be checked with the manufacturer, since it differs slightly for different cars. Until you know the value of this parameter for your car, set it from 5 to 8 mm. Too little free travel of the fork is also undesirable, as it leads to clutch slippage and increased wear of the release bearing.

Excessive wear of the synchronizers is mainly in those gears that are switched on more often: these are usually the first, second and third. The rear is not included in this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When you have poor gear changes, and you assume that the reason for this is the wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should have difficulties with this only on the go. Secondly, it switches in this case is better if you use double squeeze.

For those who do not know what double squeezing is. To upshift: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for the fuzzy engagement of gears

To switch to a lower one: double squeezing must be combined with a gas release, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So they switch gears to an auto box which does not have synchronizers. If the box will shift more easily using a double release, then it is to blame for poor gear shifting, most likely, worn out synchronizers.

Look for a breakdown in it or check if it is correctly adjusted. Don’t even think about clutch and synchromes.

For those with a machine gun

If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

  • P. For parking and starting the engine. Switching to this mode is possible only after the machine has completely stopped.
  • R. To move back. Switching to this mode is also possible only after stopping the machine and with the brake pedal pressed.
  • N. Neutral. When the engine is completely disconnected from the gearbox.
  • D. Moving forward without restrictions on gear shifting (the most often used operating mode of the automatic gearbox).
  • D3 (S). Low gears for climbing and braking engines on descents.
  • D2. Heavy duty mode (slippery or mountainous road). Gears are not shifted higher than the second, that is, only the first and second gears are included.
  • D1 (L). The movement takes place in only 1 gear, is used on off-road through mud, snow or ice, where you need to drive without gas congestion, as well as to overcome steep climbs.

The automatic transmission has a button on the mode switch lever with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, the inclusion is prohibited, which increases the transmission of the analogue of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for a more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

The automatic transmission is much more complicated than those found with manual transmissions about a gearbox malfunction, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about her at least in order not to harm her by improper operation.

The automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than the mechanics. It is very harmful to both too low and too high oil levels. Both can lead to serious damage. In both cases, oil foaming occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump, together with the oil, begins to take in air. If there is an excess of oil, it is foamed by rotating parts, which are then immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has a low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate the machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slipping of the clutches and their intense wear. The impaired thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. That, combined with low pressure, will lead to the machine failing and will require serious repair.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will indicate a too high level. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. Then check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required porium and repeat the check.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

  • Warm up the oil to operating temperature (for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Select a flat horizontal platform for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

  • Move the lever to select the operating mode of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine is triggered.
  • Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
  • Without turning off the engine, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of traces of oil on a dry dipstick should be at the mark marked hot or in an area with intersecting notches.
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If the level is insufficient, you can add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so top up only with clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth that does not fall out of threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. A dark liquid with a burning smell indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material from which the clutches are made. Do not hesitate to change such oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze entering the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant can enter the box due to a leak in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common machine malfunctions

  • Vehicle does not drive forward and reverse movement is normal. Possible reasons: wear of the friction clutch of the forward clutch, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
  • There is no reverse speed, only 1 and 2 are forward. Probable reasons: wear of the reverse clutch clutches, a malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline connection in the drum housing, another defect of this drum.
  • No back, forward everything works. Reasons: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
  • There is no forward or backward movement when any mode is turned on, there is a push to switch, but the car stands still. Reasons: malfunction of the torque converter, lack of oil, clogged filter.
  • Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are included. Reasons: jamming of the valve in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and clutches of gear clutches that do not engage.

Opel Vivaro ›Logbook› Gears are tightly included.

Guys, I ask for help or tips. the gearbox transmissions began to turn on very tightly. It feels like something is interfering in the wings. It happens that you go hard, they turn on. then time passes and they start again well, smoothly turn on as before. And then it’s tight again. otherwise it happens that you can’t turn it on without re-gasing. Today I changed the oil for Elf Tranself 75w-80, greased the cables. it didn’t help. what could be?

Price tag: 300 UAH Mileage: 165,600 km

Opel Vivaro 2008, diesel engine 2.0 l., 115 hp pp., front-wheel drive, manual transmission. do it yourself

Cars for sale Opel Vivaro, 2004 Opel Vivaro, 2010 Opel Vivaro, 2016 Opel Vivaro, 2005

that everyone is yelling here that the point is in the cylinders, the wings or the basket, why does no one say that the cunt is in the box? in my opinion the most common problem of all manual transmissions

It was about the checkpoint cables.

remembering the cables and all?

It was about the checkpoint ropes.

Hello everyone! Tell WV b2 the clutch is very hard to squeeze out what can be and how to deal with it! Thanks in advance.

It is necessary to change the brake if the clutch is hydraulic. it was exactly the same, after replacing the brake, everything became ok!

Help tight turn on 2nd gear on Renault Kango with a crunch what can be?

Well, I’m not an expert on Toyota and I don’t know the principle of transferring power to the checkpoint. if, like mine on Fiat, on cables (and everything was fine before replacing the clutch), then the reason is probably the tension in the cables. I would first anoint the cable, then look at the tension of the cables. I don’t think it’s because of the clutch basket (then all gears would be poorly included)

As a licensed car mechanic (in the past), I am used to starting small or cheaper. If the gears are shifting tightly, this is not a reason to change to new gearboxes and the clutch basket (and the engine at the same time) Let’s go through the diagnostic procedure, here it is better not to rush because you will fly into the pipe. 1. Don’t confuse TIGHT gearing with BAD! 2. How to determine the work of the clutch release (main) for bypass: squeeze the pedal and turn on the gear, wait (hold the clutch pedal in the floor), if one of the cylinders bypasses, the CAMA car will start to move. 3. If the gears crackle and do not turn on, this is either a complete failure of the working release cylinder or failure of the pusher. 4. In my case, it was precisely the tight inclusion of all gears. I started with the cables. No. no, I didn’t change them because it’s expensive. I took WD-40 and a regular syringe. He took out the pusher from the syringe and carefully filled the syringe with a WD syringe with about 4 cubes of a five-cube syringe from the spray bottle. Inserted the pusher back. Do not squeeze air out of the syringe and do not shake it (it is advisable not to turn the needle upside down as the WD cap is gassed and tears out of the syringe). carefully, with a needle up, brought the syringe to the engine compartment and stuck it into the rubber corrugation between the cable jacket and the ball mount. Squeezed out (along with the air (there is nothing wrong with that)). The result will surprise you. I had to get used to the “new” checkpoint. Good luck! (and yes, do not hesitate to fill in oil or salarka. it can destroy rubber couplings (corrugations)). Success!

Listen to me on Toyota they changed the clutch assembly, after that they began to turn on tightly 1 3 and 5, gear 2 and 4 like oil, what can be?

As a certified car mechanic (in the past), I’m used to starting small or cheaper. If the gears are shifting tightly, this is not a reason to change to new gearboxes and the clutch basket (and the engine at the same time) Let’s go through the diagnostic procedure, here it is better not to rush because you will fly into the pipe. 1. Don’t confuse TIGHT gearing with BAD! 2. How to determine the work of the clutch release (main) for bypass: squeeze the pedal and turn on the gear, wait (hold the clutch pedal in the floor), if one of the cylinders bypasses, the CAMA car will start to move. 3. If the gears crackle and do not turn on, this is either a complete failure of the working release cylinder or failure of the pusher. 4. In my case, it was precisely the tight inclusion of all gears. I started with the cables. No. no, I didn’t change them because it’s expensive. I took WD-40 and a regular syringe. He took the pusher out of the syringe and carefully filled the syringe with a WD syringe with about 4 cubes of a five-cube syringe from the spray bottle. Inserted the pusher back. Do not squeeze air out of the syringe and do not shake it (it is advisable not to turn the needle upside down as the WD cap is gassed and tears out of the syringe). carefully, with a needle up, brought the syringe to the engine compartment and stuck it into the rubber corrugation between the cable jacket and the ball mount. Squeezed out (along with the air (there is nothing wrong with that)). The result will surprise you. I had to get used to the “new” checkpoint. Good luck! (and yes, do not hesitate to fill in oil or salaryk. it can destroy rubber couplings (corrugations)). Success!

I have the same problem. when I turn on the first one, it feels like the car is shaking a little. When the clutch has already turned on, I do not let go, then it turns on and turns on normally. just let go of the clutch, turn it on again, it turns on badly, you need to tick a couple of times to turn it on. Help

As a licensed car mechanic (in the past), I am used to starting small or cheaper. If the gears are shifting tightly, this is not a reason to change to new gearboxes and the clutch basket (and the engine at the same time) Let’s go through the diagnostic procedure, here it is better not to rush because you will fly into the pipe. 1. Don’t confuse TIGHT gearing with BAD! 2. How to determine the work of the clutch release (main) for bypass: squeeze the pedal and turn on the gear, wait (hold the clutch pedal in the floor), if one of the cylinders bypasses, the CAMA car will start to move. 3. If the gears crackle and do not turn on, this is either a complete failure of the working release cylinder or failure of the pusher. 4. In my case, it was precisely the tight inclusion of all gears. I started with the cables. No. no, I didn’t change them because it’s expensive. I took WD-40 and a regular syringe. He took out the pusher from the syringe and carefully filled the syringe with a WD syringe with about 4 cubes of a five-cube syringe from the spray bottle. Inserted the pusher back. Do not squeeze air out of the syringe and do not shake it (it is advisable not to turn the needle upside down as the WD cap is gassed and tears out of the syringe). carefully, with a needle up, brought the syringe to the engine compartment and stuck it into the rubber corrugation between the cable jacket and the ball mount. Squeezed out (along with the air (there is nothing wrong with that)). The result will surprise you. I had to get used to the “new” checkpoint. Good luck! (and yes, do not hesitate to fill in oil or salarka. it can destroy rubber couplings (corrugations)). Success!

Good afternoon! Tell me, the first and reverse gears are badly included. When the car starts up with a clutch that has been pulled out, the car starts to move. The cables are not stretched! The clutch pedal takes at the very bottom! What could it be? Change the disc with the basket and the clutch release or the cuffs on the piston bypass?

There is no squeeze (the clutch is not disengaged or disengaged a little), therefore it leads. When the clutch disc is worn, the situation is the opposite: the car starts off in the uppermost position of the pedal and slips when the gas is sharp (the speed rises, but the car does not accelerate). There is something between the pedal and the disc: the cylinder bypasses or the release fork has burst, rubbed in the place of the push rod stop.

It was discussed on the forums, when the gear is tightly engaged, if the repeated squeezing of the clutch pedal helps, then the reason is in the clutch release, and if not, then most likely the cables were stretched on the wings.!

The problem has already been solved, read the new entry in the BZ!

And we all go to read 🙂

The problem has already been solved, read the new entry in the BZ!

Gears turn on tight: why is this happening

One of the most common problems in cars is tight gear shifting on the manual transmission. Inexperienced drivers do not always pay attention to this. Or, on the contrary, they begin to worry a lot in advance. Let’s figure out what is the reason for the tight switching and what needs to be done, as well as what every car owner should know about this issue.

Gears are included with effort: gearbox faults

In vehicles with a manual transmission, gear changes are made by the driver. With the help of a lever from the passenger compartment, it acts on the wings and then on the entire gearbox mechanism. To put it simply, the driver moves the gears on the shafts.

Since the shafts rotate at high speeds, cooling is required. It is carried out using a special gear oil. The oil also protects the surfaces of rubbing parts from premature wear. The lubricant must be changed on time. On average, this is done after every 40-50 thousand kilometers.

As for the reason for the tight inclusion of gears, there may be several of them. over, most often they are associated with malfunctions in the clutch or the gearbox itself. If you study the list of the most frequent breakdowns, then the following can be distinguished:

An exception is the reverse gear, since there are no synchronizers on it; By the way, when the reverse gear is tightly turned on, then there are often extraneous noises, clanging, crunching. Such phenomena directly indicate wear of the gear teeth.

What is the result

So, the main reasons that gears are hard to engage are in the clutch mechanism and gearbox. over, most of them can be eliminated on their own with the availability of tools, spare parts and certain skills.

Why it can be difficult to engage gears or does not include first gear, second, reverse, etc. The main causes of gearbox malfunctions, recommendations.

The reasons for the difficult inclusion of gears on a running engine. Transmission oil and level in the gearbox, wear of synchronizers and gears of the gearbox, clutch.

How to shift gears without a clutch: Driving without a clutch in a car with a manual transmission in the event of a malfunction. Tips & Tricks.

Gears (speeds) of the manual transmission do not turn on after replacing the clutch: the main reasons, settings and adjustments. Troubleshooting, useful tips.

The automatic transmission does not switch speeds: the car does not move forward or backward, there is no automatic transmission switching to individual gears, the reasons.

Transmissions on manual transmission are tightly included

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Town, Lite, Master. Ace. Transmission. box, transfer case ⇒ Gears are tightly engaged in manual transmission

Post by gus1809 »Feb 25, 2012 10:36 pm

Posted by Alexeichev »Feb 26, 2012, 04:47 am

Post by gus1809 Feb 27, 2012 11:57 am

Post “Red caviar” Feb 29, 2012, 11:58 am

Post urborur »12 Mar 2012, 15:37

Post Red caviar »14 Mar 2012, 07:18

Post by gus1809 »Apr 15, 2012 09:09 am

The gears are tightly included (it is much easier on the unchecked), i.e. on cold everything (but the higher the gear, the easier) the second is practically impossible to turn on (30 kilograms of effort, but once at a time it is not necessary, it can be easier)! double squeezing, pause, etc. does not help, the trouble is also that pulling off the already engaged gear (the same 2nd or 3rd) is almost the same effort. What is it?

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In principle, I can ride like that.

1191482 He removed the gearshift and selector mechanism. it turned out that everything was fine there too. In the box itself, the heads and the shift fork are visible, but they seem to be jammed. We tried to switch with a screwdriver with the clutch depressed, but they do not move. Perhaps the problem is further. most likely in the synchronizer.

I want to check this ring, but for that I have to open the gearbox. Tell me how.

Gears are tightly included: reasons

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  • Why gears turn on tightly. 5 reasons

One common problem with manual transmissions is too tight engagement. Gears should be included easily, without unnecessary effort. But when this does happen, the driver is seriously worried, or, on the contrary, continues to operate the vehicle. In any case, you should pay attention to the problem, trying to fix it.

Features of a manual transmission, its devices are that by moving the shift lever, the driver acts on the rocker, through which he actually moves the shafts and gears of the transmission. In this process, one cannot do without a clutch, since it is possible to change gears only when the flywheel is disengaged, it, together with the box, must be disconnected from the engine during the switching process.

Therefore, clutch problems can also cause tight shifting. The shafts of the manual transmission rotate at high speed, and therefore they need to be cooled. This function is performed by the oil, which, like in the engine, must be changed in time, usually after a run of about 50,000 kilometers. Based on the transmission device of cars with manual transmission, there are 5 reasons for tight shifting:

1) irregularities in the adjustment or breakdown of the stage, in some cases it may require its complete replacement;

2) failure of the clutch drive. wire breakage or hydraulic leakage;

3) failure of synchronizers in the gearbox;

Gear shifting tightly on the bike. Why gear changes are bad

While poor gear shifting is a major problem for many cyclists, few people give it the attention it deserves. Many do not know what to do and are afraid to ruin everything, or save money on repairs from a qualified mechanic.

Of course, identifying the cause of poor shifting requires some understanding of how the switches work, but if you are not intimidated by words like “shirt”, “adjusting screw” or “free play”, then you can easily cope with this task.

Cable tension and switch limit adjustment

The most obvious and common causes of poor shifting and switch breakage come down to poor setting. Index derailleurs (where you shift into 1st gear with one press of the shift lever) are very demanding on the correct tension of the cable and the inner cleanliness of the shirt. Over time, shirts and cables deteriorate, dirt and dust gets inside and this inevitably leads to a deterioration in the quality of switching.

If the derailleur is reluctant to overdrive the chain, then most likely you should check and tighten the cable. If this happens when downshifting, then the cable must be lowered.

Also, very often problems with switching to the highest and lowest sprocket can be caused by incorrect adjustment of the adjustment screws of the extreme positions.

If all gears are shifted somehow strangely and with varying degrees of success, then perhaps you have incorrectly set the distance from the switch to the stars.

How to fix these 3 problems, we already talked about in the article on setting up the rear derailleur.

Replacing the cable and shirt

Gear shifting depends on the condition of the cables and jackets. If the cables are old and dirty, with unnecessary bends, rusty or simply poor quality, then they most likely interfere with gear shifting smoothly and clearly. Replacing them will be the best solution. Shimano’s Di2 electronic transmissions avoid these problems as there is no cable or shirts.

If your derailleur is set up correctly, but still does not work satisfactorily, then most likely you just need to replace the shirt and cable. It is also worth noting that the more “breaks” in the shift cable shirt there are on your bike, the faster the shirt and cable become dirty, and the more often they need to be changed. If possible, always try to tuck the shift cable into a one-piece shirt.

Cables with different coatings (usually gold or black) are often advertised as a panacea for all ills, we do not recommend using them, as this coating periodically falls off and only clogs the shirt, thereby impairing switching. Quality stainless steel cables without any coating will not only save you money, but will also extend the interval until the next change.

The evenness of the “rooster

If the cock on your frame, to which the switch is usually attached, is damaged or bent, then this also negatively affects the quality of gear shifting. You can try to level the “cock” with pliers, but aluminum cocks often burst from this procedure. There are special tools from Park Tool or X-Tools that allow you to level the roosters, but the price you pay will allow you to replace your rooster fifteen times, so leave these tools to the professional mechanics in the workshops.

Chain wear, cleanliness and suitable lubrication

How often do you monitor your chain for wear? The wear of the chain also affects the quality of shifting, so a timely replacement of the chain will not only save your cassette and sprockets from premature replacement, but also improve the quality of gear shifting.!

Even if your chain is not worn out, you may have damaged it while riding. Is there any visible damage or misalignment of the links? Slowly turn the pedal by hand and watch the chain. If some link was damaged and now rotates poorly or the chain has a skew, then in this place it will start jumping on the stars of the cassette.

Don’t let dirt build up on your derailleurs, a clean drivetrain will always perform better. In addition, a dirty transmission not only wears out faster, but also shifts worse. Unlubricated chain also impairs transmission performance, watch out for this! We have already written about proper maintenance, about measuring wear, and about replacing a chain, do not be lazy to read these articles.

Long shirt and long chain

A shirt that is too long will only degrade the shift quality due to the added friction. And if the jacket is too short, the cable tension may change during steering or suspension operation.

A chain that is too short will cause excessive tension on the rear derailleur and difficult operation on the largest chainrings. This has a bad effect not only on shifting, but also on the life of the transmission. And if you have a suspension, then when the suspension is triggered, a chain that is too short can break and damage the transmission. A long chain will rub against the derailleur on the smallest sprockets, which will create additional chain wear, damage the derailleur and affect shifting performance.

Front derailleur position

For many, adjusting the front derailleur is even more wizardry than adjusting the rear. Incorrect front derailleur height is the most common problem. We have already written about how to properly configure the front derailleur. Take a look here.

Wear

It doesn’t matter how well you tune the derailleur, if it’s worn out and loose, the slip bushings in the sprockets have long been worn out, and the tension springs inside have long ceased to tension anything. The shifters also wear out, and if the gear sprockets can still be replaced, the shifters usually have to be completely replaced. Although this is rare and most often the chain and cassette wear out.

Kinked shirt

Due to the design of the frame, you may have extra flex in your shirt, which creates additional friction and degrades shift quality. Also, due to the bends of the shirt and the cables in these places wear out faster and have to be changed more often.

So try to route your shirts so that there are a minimum of bends in their path and are not bitten by the frame while the suspension is operating.

Chainline

An outlandish overseas word that scares many and is a great topic of controversy among marketers. In short, the chainline is the location of the chainrings relative to the rear. For example, if your cassette has 9 stars, then the less the displacement of the 5th star relative to the plane of the driving sprocket on the connecting rods, the less the chain will bend in the extreme positions and the better the gear changes will be.

The chainline is dependent on the design of the frame and connecting rods. On some crankset models, minimal chainline adjustment is available through spacers that fit on the crank shaft, but often you just have to accept that your chainline is not perfect.

Maybe you’re just switching wrong

After all, even if everything is set up perfectly, there is a possibility that you are shifting gears incorrectly. Manufacturers do not recommend shifting gears under load. Therefore, learn to slightly reduce the pedal load during gear changes and your transmission will thank you.

Why gear shifts poorly on a bike

On entry-level bicycles, the transmission of the cheapest groups is installed, and when the gears start to shift poorly and jam, the owners just shrug their shoulders. what, they say, you can take from cheap rubbish.

A big surprise befalls those who buy a much more expensive bike, and after a while again encounter shifting problems. The point here, of course, is not karma, but the wrong attitude to technology.

I am by no means claiming that there is no difference between starter and top-end components. Of course, the experienced cyclist with eyes closed will distinguish the Shimano Alivio from the XTR in three clicks.

But the reasons for the fuzzy operation of the transmission do not so much depend on the class of the transmission, but on its condition and settings. In this post, I will not talk about how to configure the switches, for this a separate article will be released soon, subscribe, and I will send you a notification about its publication.

Causes of fuzzy operation of gear switches

Cables and shirts. This is the most common problem, especially for beginner cyclists. I just wonder what a terrible condition some cyclists are in.

At the end of the cable, there must be an aluminum cap that protects it from fluffing. With pliers, you can carefully remove it and unscrew the bolt securing the cable to the rear derailleur.

Release the jacket from the stops by carefully removing it from the cable. The cable itself can be left in its slot in the shifter. When he is completely naked, once again inspect for raised threads and scuffs. Spray WD40 on a rag and wipe it thoroughly.

The shirts, if they are in order, can also be used a second time. Fill them with more WD40, and gently rub there with a cable. The task is to drive out all the dirt that has accumulated during the riding period.

Here I ask you to take into account the following thing. cables and shirts do not need lubrication. Never lubricate them with thick greases, such as grease. Literally after a few trips on the ground, you will have a consistency in your shirts, consisting mainly of dirt.

If you need to calm the soul, then spray with Teflon spray, it dries quickly, but leaves a thin gliding layer. Which, however, will be erased after a dozen switches.

One more point. There are Teflon-coated cables, such as Shimano XTR Cable, which cost quite a lot of money. In the days of fetishism, I used only these, because of the sliding cover, the effort on the shifter is slightly less.

Unfortunately, after about a year of active skating, Teflon in places of friction is completely erased. However, these cables have a very big advantage. they come with spout stops, which effectively prevent dirt from getting in.

Returning to shirts, make sure that nowhere are too long, or vice versa, short sections, because of this, there will be increased friction in the bending places, and sooner or later dirt will accumulate there.

The bent cock. If you do not know what this part is, then here you can read a note about a bicycle cock. Sometimes it happens that a seemingly perfectly tuned rear derailleur does not work clearly, despite fresh cables and shirts.

The reason may be that during transportation, the bicycle is clamped somewhere, and the cock bent slightly. If you cannot achieve a clear gear change, then remove the cock and put it on the table.

If it is slightly crooked, then you need to bend it. Do not overdo it, aluminum can give microcracks. How exactly to bend it. I will not advise. I do it in an artisanal way. I put it on the bike and pull it with my hands. Ideally, you need to edit with a special typewriter, which even takes into account the asymmetry of the dropouts.

Rear derailleur play. Move the rear derailleur towards you and away from you, keeping where the cable goes. Ideally, there should be no backlash at all, but a small free play does not represent anything criminal, especially on the initial transmission groups.

During operation, this backlash tends to increase, and then delays in switching, fuzziness, etc. begin. If everything is in order with the ropes and the rooster, then with fine tuning you can overcome the negative effect of backlash.

Most often, the reason that the bike shifts poorly is a complex of problems. Dirt in shirts, a slightly bent cock, a slight backlash in the switch, poor tuning. all tolerances add up.

over, many Catalans drive like this, and find it normal when the speeds are switched on the principle of three forward, two back. Guys, this is not normal!

Any drivetrain, even the lowest Shimano Tourney, needs to work well. Do not get used to the bad, otherwise even buying an expensive bike, after a season or two you will get the same.

Friends, on my site there is still a lot of useful information about bicycles and travel. I suggest that you receive email notifications about the publication of my new articles, so you will always know that I have written something new. Follow the link please.

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What to do if your bike’s derailleur is broken

Transmission components must be kept in good condition at all times, lubricating the chain in good time, adjusting switches and troubleshooting.

As the kilometers increase on the bike, individual parts wear out, and if maintenance is not performed on time, the part may become unusable altogether. In this article we will look at the most common problem associated with speed derailleurs.

It must be understood that the speed changes only when the chain moves forward. If you jerked the shifter, then you need to rotate the pedal so that the chain spreads from one star to another. If clicking or any other extraneous sounds are emitted when switching, you need to adjust the switching.

The main reasons for inaccurate switching:

  • The transfer cable is torn, stretched, or is on the verge of breaking.
  • The switch itself is broken or the spring in it is worn out.
  • Roller teeth are worn down.
  • Switch needs to be adjusted.
  • The chain or cassette is worn out.
  • There is a lot of dirt in the chain.
READ  DIY Bike Chain Key

Transmission repair stages

Repairs include adjusting the front and rear derailleurs, as well as checking the condition of the cables, chain, cassette and rollers.

  • Unscrew the bolt holding the cable.
  • Disassemble the shifter and remove the cable from it and from the shirts. Shirts are also recommended to be replaced!
  • Clean shirts and put a drop of oil in them for better cable glide.
  • Thread the new cable through the shifter and then into all shirts.
  • Start configuring the switch.
  • Bite off the excess part of the cable and secure the end with a special tip.

Over time, the chain deteriorates. It is recommended to keep several chains in stock and change them every 100 kilometers, because the wear of the chain will deteriorate the cassette. Multiple chains will wear out more slowly and your cassette will last longer. You can determine the state of the chain using a special tool. It is impossible to repair the chain, you just need to replace it if necessary.

If the chain is in good condition, simply remove it, clean and lubricate. Remove excess with a napkin or dry cloth.

Rear derailleur

Make sure the cock is level first. If it is still bent, you can contact the service to straighten it, or try it yourself. You can also simply replace it. For 2016, for roosters are only about 300-900 rubles. Do not even try to tune the derailleur with a bent cock, as the gear adjustment on the bike will fail.!

Some firms produce the so-called cock guard, which is attached to the frame. Do not buy it under any circumstances! A rooster is a consumable component that can and should be replaced if it breaks. When hitting this very protection, the cock will remain intact, but the frame may crack. The frame is harder and more expensive to change.

When you are convinced that the rooster and the rope are in good condition, you can proceed to the actual setting.

Place the chain on the largest chainring in the front and the smallest in the back.

Unscrew the bolt holding the rear transfer cable.

By rotating the bolt marked “H” you need to make sure that the switch rollers lie in the same plane with the desired sprocket.

Then pull the cable slightly and tighten the bolt holding it. Over-tensioning the cable will make the transfer difficult.

Shift the speed to the lowest (i.e. the largest star in the back and smallest in the front).

Rotate screw “L” until the derailleur rollers line up against the large star.

Check if gear changes are good.

If shifting is not correct, use the thumbscrew on the shifter, which changes the cable tension.

Now that you have set up the rear derailleur, you are ready to adjust the front.

Front crossover

It is important to set it up especially accurately, since if the adjustment is not good enough when changing speeds, the chain can fly off or even break. The sequence of your actions will be as follows:

Use the rear shifter to shift to the middle sprocket so that there is no strong chain skew.

Then put the chain in first gear and unscrew the bolt securing the cable.

Use the screw “L” to move the transfer frame so that the distance from the chain to the switch on the left and right matches.

Without too much tension, place the cable and secure with the bolt.

Switch to the biggest star in the front.

Tighten the screw “H” so that the chain is again exactly in the middle of the frame.

Check adjustment results and achieve maximum shifting accuracy with the thumb on the shifter.

If the shifter triggers are too tight, loosen the cable tension.

Switching recommendations

Drive only at speeds that will not cause the chain to tilt too much. For example, you cannot set the speed to 1/8, 1/10, 3/1 (the first number is forward gear, the second is reverse) and so on. For the smallest front chainring, you can turn on 1–4 speeds at the rear, for the middle. 3–7, for the largest. 7. If you nevertheless put an incompatible gear, there will be a risk of chain jamming and spinning, as well as an increase in its wear rate.

On a speed bike, fast gear changes are very important, especially if you are competing. Transmission repairs should be carried out before the race, and then after, as aggressive driving may cause the shift adjustments to go off. If you do full maintenance of your bike at least once a season, then it will serve you for a very long time.!

Setting up bike speed switches

In this article, we’ll take a look at how to set up your bike’s derailleurs. At first glance, speed switches may seem like a complicated mechanism, although they have a rather primitive design.

Gear shifting occurs due to the loosening and tension of the cable that moves the switch. That is, in fact, switches are the simplest mechanical design, and there is nothing difficult to adjust them. The setting always starts with the rear derailleur, except when only one of the bike derailleurs needs to be adjusted.

Rear derailleur setting

Make sure the switch is not bent. If the chain tensioner (tab with two rollers at the bottom of the rear derailleur) is parallel to the cassette sprockets, then everything is fine. If not, then most likely it is not the switch itself that is bent, but the cock. fastening the switch to the frame. It is easy to straighten it by pulling on the derailleur, but do not pull on one chain tensioner! he will bend before the cock straightens, and it is no longer so easy to straighten it.

Getting started with the adjustment. Choose a higher speed at which the chain is on the smallest sprocket in the cassette (the sprocket on the rear wheel). The switch has 2 screws labeled H and L (see picture). Turn the screw H (High) so that the derailleur roller is in line with the smaller star. Now choose the lower speed. the largest cassette. And now turn the screw marked L (Low) until the roller is aligned with the big sprocket.

After that, you need to pull the cable, while the maximum speed should be on the rear derailleur lever. Make sure the cable is firmly in the groove of the fixing bolt (shown as 1 in the picture) and tighten. Fasten the cable with a good stretch. If high gears are poorly engaged (when picking up speed on a bike), loosen the cable tension with the adjuster (indicated by number 2 in the picture). If they are poorly reset (when driving speed decreases), then you need to tighten the cable by unscrewing the tension adjuster. If the bike trim is more expensive, then there is a regulator on the shifter, which allows you to adjust the cable tension on the go.

Now the last adjustment. Place the chain on the front of the smallest sprocket and the rear on the largest sprocket and pedal backwards. Turning the tension screw (in the picture marked with number 3), ensure that the upper roller of the rear derailleur is as close as possible to the star, but does not touch it. This is necessary for the smoothest gear shifting. Now set the maximum speed. there is a large sprocket in front, the smallest sprocket at the back and make sure that the roller does not touch the cassette sprocket even in this position. Cheap switches may not have this adjustment.

Front derailleur setting

The front derailleur is even easier to adjust than the rear derailleur. But it is important that it is properly secured to the bike frame. When the chain is on the largest sprocket, the sprocket to derailleur frame should be 1 to 3 mm. And the frame should be parallel to the stars. If so, then you can start customizing.

Set the speed to minimum. the rear is the largest and the front is the smallest star. Loosen the cable tension and turn the screw marked L (Low (where it is visible in the picture) until there is a millimeter gap between the chain and the derailleur frame. he lay in a special groove near the screw.

Now we set the maximum speed when the front chain is on the largest sprocket, and on the smaller cassette, and we turn the screw marked H (High) so that the gap between the chain and the inner plane of the frame is a millimeter. If, after that, the chain still reluctantly climbs onto a large sprocket, slightly unscrew the screw H.

Now we sit on the bike and try how successful the gearshift settings were. If the chain does not shift well to low speed (smaller chainrings), twist the cable tension adjuster located on the front derailleur coin on the handlebar to loosen the cable tension. When the chain sluggishly climbs onto large sprockets, tighten the cable with the same adjuster.

Problems

If the chain slips with effort when pedaling, it means that it is stretched and it is time to change it. If you haven’t changed it for a long time, you may also have to change the stars with the cassette. a worn out chain quickly destroys a star.

If some certain speeds do not turn on well, check if the cable runs freely in the shirts and if there are any breaks, as well as places with unbraided cable winding. Shirts with breaks and those in which the cable runs with difficulty must be replaced, as can a damaged cable. The same problem can be caused by a bent cock.

If the switch suddenly stopped working altogether, then the problem is definitely in the cable: either it is badly tightened with the fixing bolt, or it broke.

And another important point. When changing gears, make sure that there is no skewing of the chain, due to its location simultaneously on opposite sprockets of the connecting rod and cassette, as well as on the middle sprocket and extreme sprockets of the cassette. Incorrect circuit arrangement is shown schematically in the picture. Because of this, there is a rapid wear of both the chain and the stars.

In general, setting up your bike’s gear shifters is quick (30-40 minutes) and effortless.

Bicycle derailleur repair

Cycling is not just great recreation and sports, for some fans it becomes a way of life. High-quality and safe cycling is possible only if the vehicle is fully functional. This applies to any bike, but especially a bike with gear shifting. All components of the bicycle transmission assembly must be maintained in working order. This applies to preventive maintenance of the bicycle chain, derailleur. During the operation of a bicycle, with an increase in its mileage, many parts wear out and fail, posing a threat to their owner. If during a ride it is difficult to switch speeds on a bicycle on a multi-speed device, you hear unusual sounds, clicks, this may be due to a malfunction of the speed switch. The reasons for the malfunction of the speed switch can be as follows:

  • chain stretch wear;
  • deformation of the stars and damage to the transfer cable;
  • pollution. The ingress of dirt into the rear derailleur mechanism is evidenced by extraneous sounds in the form of a squeak and various knocks that occur during rotation;
  • wear of the cassette unit.
  • unscrew the bolt securing the cable with a wrench;
  • remove the cable after disassembling the shifter. The shifter is a part of the gearshift mechanism attached to the handlebars of the bicycle (Fig. 1);
  • Replace shirts if worn out;
  • to better fit the cable into the shirt, use oil and place the part in place;
  • adjust the switch.

If everything is in order with the cable, diagnose the chain. The chain is a very important element in the entire transmission unit, on the serviceability of which the correct operation of the entire mechanism depends. Over time, the bicycle chain can stretch due to dynamic forces, pollution, long-term operation, and therefore requires timely replacement and preventive maintenance. To replace the chain or shorten it by extracting several links, a special professional tool called a squeeze is used. Using this tool, the axis of the link (pin) is squeezed out, which allows you to open the circuit and perform the necessary manipulations with it.

Design and principle of operation of the rear cross-over

The rear cross-over of the speed switch (fig. 2) consists of the following parts:

  • parallelogram;
  • cable guide and fixing bolt;
  • tension roller;
  • paws;
  • adjustment screw H and adjustment screw L;
  • guide roller;
  • attachment points to the cock.

The principle of operation of the rear shifter of the speed switch is to coordinate the functionality of the shifter fixed on the steering wheel and the rear shifter by means of a cable. During gear shifting on the handlebars of the bicycle, the cable transmits an impulse to the transmission assembly of the rear derailleur, activating the necessary stars in the maneuver. Thus, the speed change is adjusted.

How to install the rear derailleur

The process of replacing the rear derailleur is not a particularly difficult task and is within the power of non-professional craftsmen. To repair this assembly, it must be removed. To install the rear derailleur (fig. 3) on the bike, you need to perform the following manipulations:

  • dismantle the bicycle chain;
  • remove the switch cable;
  • remove the old part and install a new overthrow in its place;
  • replace the chain by pulling it between the rollers according to the instructions;
  • adjust the rear crossover of speeds.

Rear derailleur service

After you have made sure the integrity and working order of all components of the transmission unit, you can start setting up the rear crossover gearshift unit:

  • Place the bike chain on the large chainring in the front cassette unit and on the small chainring in the rear;
  • take a wrench and unscrew the bolt securing the rear crossover;
  • adjust the derailleur rollers so that they are aligned with the desired stars. To do this, use the appropriate screw;
  • after that, you need to pull the cable and fix it in the desired position, adjust the cable tension;
  • then, using the second screw, set the switch rollers opposite the large star;
  • test the quality of work by switching speeds

After you have repaired and adjusted the rear derailleur on your bike, you can start adjusting the front derailleur:

  • First, using the shifter, set the switch to the star in the middle;
  • The next step in the adjustment is to put the bike chain in first gear and release the retaining cable;
  • use the screw to move the frame to the same distance on both sides of the switch;
  • Install the cable by fixing it with a bolt;
  • Install the chain in the center of the frame by rotating the screw;
  • check the work result.

If your bike is racing and it is very important for you that the speed changes quickly and without hitch, repair and adjustment of the speed switch must be done in advance. Avoid sudden changes in gears from low to high speeds and vice versa. This quickly leads to wear and damage to the mechanism. It should be remembered that for a multi-speed bike, it is very important to take care of all parts and control their condition, as well as timely replacement of parts and their adjustment.