How to replace chainrings on a bike?
Change the chainrings on your bike with our step-by-step video tutorial. Replacing the sprockets on a road or mountain bike is a fairly straightforward task that needs to be done urgently, however, when the cogs wear out. You can swap the chainrings to change the gear ratio, lowering which will make it easier to climb slopes, and increasing it will speed up in flat races.
Before starting work, find out the exact landing diameter (PDD) of your leading star system before purchasing new ones. Typically PDZ 110 or 130 mm. or significantly reduced or traditional size. If the bike is equipped with a 50x34T system, then the PDR is almost certainly 110 mm. If it is 53x39T, then the PDZ will be 130 mm.
Of course, you can always measure the circumference of your system to be sure. There are exceptions such as, “four-legged” used in Shimano’s newest 11-speed hitch, for which different sprockets are available without worrying about the difference in PDL.
How to replace front sprockets. video. Tools for work
- Hexagons or special Torx keys (asterisks);
- Carriage puller;
- Special wrench extractor.
How to replace asterisks?
If your goal is not just to replace the outer sprocket. which can be easily done by removing the fasteners and threading it through the connecting rod. you will have to start by removing the drive sprockets. Some high-quality connecting rod systems allow you to remove the sprocket bolts with regular hexagons or special Torx wrenches, but if your sprockets have regular bolts, you need either a special puller wrench that can be placed in the slotted groove of the sprocket nut or another hexagon (often 1 mm larger than the front), securing the nut from turning. Special wrench. a puller holds the sprocket nut immobile while unscrewing or tightening the bolt.
Lock the nut and unscrew the bolts counterclockwise. Remove them carefully, they will come in handy for installing new stars. You can now remove the old chainrings or clean them thoroughly if you replace only the outer chainring to change the gear ratio.
When replacing asterisks, you need to pay attention to their relative position.
The outer star, usually the largest, has a small pin protruding from one side. The sprocket should be positioned so that the pin is behind the crank arm to prevent the chain from being completely seized if it comes off and falls between the outer sprocket and the crank arm.
The chamfered edges of the cogs. which aid in gear shifting. either the brand name or any other markings must be visible from the outside when the sprocket is installed.
Place the sprocket with the markings facing outward, thus positioning the teeth correctly for smooth gear shifting. When the sprockets are positioned correctly, insert the nuts into the holes. Fix them with a special wrench or hexagons, then screw the bolt into the nut clockwise until you feel a slight resistance, while fastening the sprockets.
Repeat these steps for all bolts, then alternately tighten each bolt a quarter turn at a time until it stops. A torque wrench can be used to do this by tightening the bolts to the torque indicated on the bolts.
Install the sprocket connecting rod onto the axle, remembering to thread them through the chain. Pedal and change gears to make sure everything is working properly. If you have resized the outer sprocket, you may need to readjust the front derailleur for smoother speed changes.
How do I adjust my bike speeds? How to adjust bike speeds?
Despite the fact that the derailleur has a primitive mechanical design, adjusting it can be quite difficult for cycling enthusiasts. Read this article to learn how to set your bike speeds and learn how to use the derailleur correctly.
Let’s define the terminology
Before talking about such a concept as adjusting the speed of a bike, you need to understand the basic definitions so that even a novice cyclist understands what is at stake.
The speed switch is sometimes referred to as a toggle switch. It is an indispensable component of any modern speed bike. It looks like a rectangular spring mechanism with a frame (or foot) attached. When it comes to the shifter, it is impossible to ignore the shifter. a device that is designed to control the transfer by adjusting the rope tension. Usually this important part is attached directly to the handlebars. But there are bike models where the shifter is on the down tube of the front triangle of the frame.
Every seasoned cyclist knows what a rooster, cassette and speed bike system is. For the rest, we will give definitions to these terms:
How to adjust the speeds on a bike without fixing screws? The two notorious switches marked H and L are right on the crossbar. First. Hight. this is a stop screw for adjusting large gears (or small sprockets or gears). L (Low) adjusts small gears. Their location may vary on different models.
Possible causes of unclear / incorrect speed switching
Before talking about how to adjust the speeds on a bike, let’s talk about the possible causes of such defects:
How to fix defects?
Every speed bike must have an attentive owner. That is all the details. cable, sprockets and switches. must be lubricated with special agents. lubricants.
If the cable is stretched, it can be slightly tightened. In the event that it has already been torn, it should immediately be replaced with a new one. Algorithm of actions:
If the spring does not work well enough, then it must be rinsed with water and lubricated.
Rooster deformation can be seen not only in special bike shops. A bent cock is visible if you place the rear derailleur frame obliquely. In case of slight deformation, it can be leveled independently by pulling it out until the hind foot is level. However, remember that this is only a temporary measure. It is best to replace a deformed part with a new one. The same goes for the bent crossover.
How to adjust bike speeds?
On modern models of these vehicles, there are two gear selectors. front and back. Usually, the adjustment begins with the latter, but there are also cases when it is necessary to adjust only one crossover.
Setting up the rear derailleur
The first step is to place the chain on the smallest sprocket in the cassette. This can be done using the right shifter. it is this detail that directly affects the rear derailleur on a bicycle. To release the cable, you need to unscrew the screw that fixes its position. The screw marked H must be unscrewed with a screwdriver so that the smallest sprocket is in the same plane with the sprockets in the foot. Next, the cable must be pulled and fixed with a screw.
After that, you should definitely check the work of the transfer. If the chain does not switch to large rollers (stars), then the cable must be tightened even more, using the drum on the shifter or on the transfer. The chain is moved to the largest roller and the switch position is adjusted with the screw L. Ideally, the cross-over should not be able to hit the knitting needles, that is, the foot and the star should be in the same plane.
Adjusting the front derailleur
This algorithm of actions will tell you how to adjust the speed on the bike by setting the front overhaul:
After reading this article, you will know for sure the answer to the question of how to set the speeds on your bike. The main thing. follow the above algorithms, and the process of adjusting the speed switch will not seem so difficult to you.
How to adjust the front derailleur on a bike. How to properly adjust the bike’s front derailleur?
It is generally not worth adjusting the front derailleur until the rear derailleur is configured. But before you tweak something, you need to thoroughly know how it works. Therefore, let’s try to understand the principle of its work.
How this switch works
This is not a Tiptronic automatic transmission and the operation of the switch is very simple. All conventions aside, it’s just a steel frame suspended from a bicycle frame that can move left and right. As it moves, it pushes the bicycle chain and makes it move from one sprocket to another. Powered by a cable that is connected to a shifter on the handlebars.
Everything seems to be simple, but not as it seems. The front derailleur has to work with the busiest top of the chain, which transmits power to the rear sprockets and is always in tension. Therefore, in the event that the derailleur is not set correctly, changing gears will be difficult even with ideal rear shift settings.
To make the whole adjustment clear and understandable, let’s imagine that we are installing it on a bare bike frame. Settings from scratch, kind of.
Installing the front derailleur to the frame
In order to determine if the bulkhead is correctly positioned on the frame, we must ensure that:
- derailleur frame is 2 mm higher than the teeth of the largest chainring;
- the frame should be located strictly parallel to the block of leading stars;
- the bike’s front derailleur is washed, all dirt and dust is removed, it is greased and all adjusting screws rotate freely;
- the chain is on the largest star in the back and on the smallest star in the front;
- the drive cable clamping screw is loose;
- the cable cover is loose (it is in a free, loose state);
- front crossover angle. the center line should be parallel to the center line of the frame.
Below we have placed a picture in which we tried to demonstrate the initial positions of the entire structure before setting up.
A little tip. the lower the front derailleur is lowered, the clearer it will work.
And here a question arises, the solution of which we cannot influence without replacing the re-throw. If the radius of the star is greater than that for which the switch is designed, then the rear of the frame will catch the teeth of the large star. But sometimes this can be cured by fine adjustments, which we will talk about later. In the meantime, everything is ready and we are waiting for the setting of the front derailleur.
By turning screw 1, we achieve that the frame is at a minimum distance from the chain from the side of the carriage. Make sure that the chain does not touch the frame.
Fasten the gearshift cable. Pulling it slightly, fix it with a screw or fastening nut. If there is a spacer washer with a groove, put the cable into it and clamp it.
We transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the back and to the largest in the front. By turning the screw 2, we achieve the minimum distance between the chain and the frame, but without contact.
We check the operation of the switch under load. If the chain moves freely along all the stars and does not touch the frame while driving, we can consider the setup complete. Congratulations.
But you will never be able to adjust so that the chain does not rub against the frame at the front highest and rear lowest and vice versa. It is necessary to strive for this, but not everyone succeeds. Therefore, if you want to achieve academic heights in setting up the front changeover, then only practice will help in this.
Sometimes the fault of the frame grinding against the chain can be increased wear of the crossover. It’s easy to check. if the frame has play, it is better to change the speed switch to a new one. Its repair is not worth the time you spend, and a new one is not that expensive, and besides, there will be a guarantee that it will last for more than one season.
But in any case, no matter how carefully you set up the front shifter, it will not save you from the rattle of the chain on the frame if you are not shifting gears correctly. Without going into subtleties, remember the most important thing. you do not need to switch speeds while loading the pedals. Those. stop pedaling for a second, switch the speed and smoothly (without excessive pressure) make a few pedals. When you do not yet realize that the chain has moved to the correct sprocket, you can continue with normal pedaling. over, the cheaper the system on your bike, the stricter it is to follow this rule.
In general, the settings described above are sufficient for comfortable and problem-free operation of the front gearshift.
How to adjust the speed switch on a bike
It often happens that either the speeds on the bike are not switched clearly, or some new transmission elements have been installed. In this case, you will need to adjust the speed switch and it is quite possible to do this work on your own, without contacting specialized workshops.
To understand the process of self-adjusting the speed switch, you need to know the definition of some specific terms, otherwise it will be difficult to understand the instructions.
Things to remember:
- Speed switch (override). This is a transmission element that is specifically responsible for gear shifting. If there is a rear overhang, then it also acts as a support for the tension of the bicycle chain. The crossover (back and front) can be described as follows: it is a parallelogram mechanism equipped with a powerful return spring, on which the frame is fixed. The rear derailleur has two rollers inside the frame. if the level of cable tension rises, the frame shifts the chain to large stars, and if this cable tension decreases, then the chain is shifted towards small stars with the help of the frame. The mechanism of the front derailleur works in the same way.
- Shifter. It is designed to switch speeds by changing the tension level of the cable. Most often, the shifter is located on the handlebars, but in some bicycle models it can also be located on the lower tube of the frame triangle. Note:shifters and speed switches have a common connection on the steering wheel (this is provided by a cable) and are covered with a jacket.
- Cassette. This is the name of the rear transmission unit, which consists of stars of different sizes (of different diameters and with a different number of teeth) and is installed on the rear hub drum. If the bike model is old, then a ratchet is used instead of a drum in the rear hub.
- Cock. This is a metal part that helps to maintain the integrity of the frame and rear derailleur in the event that the vehicle has been hit. The rooster is always attached to the frame, and a cross-over is already attached to this metal part. When a blow occurs, it is this very cock that breaks down, and the frame and the speed switch (crossover) remain intact.
- System. This is the name of the front transmission unit, which consists of stars of different diameters and with a different number of teeth. These stars are fastened to each other and the connecting rods with special hollow bolts on the connecting rods, but you need to know that there are no hollow bolts in cheap bicycles. the stars and connecting rods are riveted together.
Why is there a violation of gear shifting
To understand what action should be taken to adjust gear shifting, you need to understand what causes may lead to the problem under consideration. Experts identify several such predisposing factors:
- deformation of the rooster;
- stretching the cable;
- deformation of the speed switch;
- malfunctioning return spring.
How to fix defects
The speed switch will work perfectly and the bike itself will be with a new (or not very old) cable, with absolutely intact shirts (and not dry!) And not deformed (or in a small volume) stars and chain.
If the cable is just stretched, then you just need to pull it up. But if the cable breaks, then you cannot do without replacing this element. The process of replacing the cable is not difficult, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the recommendations of specialists:
- unscrew the cable fixing screw, which is located on the cross-over;
- pull the cable out of the shirts;
- if necessary, disassemble the shifter and pull the cable out of it;
- a new cable must be inserted into a special groove in the shifter, and it is the metal tip of the cable that must enter into the groove;
- lubricate the entire cable with a special grease, you do not need to spare the consumable;
- pass the cable through the shirts;
- there are special grooves on the frame, into which shirts are tucked;
- fasten the cable with a screw on the front.
In case of poor gear shifting, pay attention to the return spring. it must be clean and lubricated. To achieve this, you just need to rinse the spring under running water, dry it completely and lubricate it thoroughly.
If the frame of the rear derailleur is crooked, then this can only mean one thing. the cock is bent. If this is not critical, then you can correct the cock with your hands. you need to take the rear switch in your hand, which is fixed on the cock, and with the other hand hold the frame. Slowly pull out the problematic transmission element (rooster) until relatively level.
Note: this “repair” of the cock is a temporary solution to the problem of shifting gears. The fact is that the rooster is a consumable that needs to be changed in time, and not constantly repaired / pulled.
In some cases, the bike owner pays attention to a deformed rear derailleur (the front derailleur rarely suffers on impact). it can also be returned to its original position using the hands. But if the rear derailleur is deformed too much, then it is advisable to replace it.
Note: After performing specific manipulations to repair bent / deformed parts, you should not use the bike for too long. this may end in a fall, another breakdown at the most inopportune moments. And in some cases, such carelessness can lead to a road accident.!
How to properly adjust the rear derailleur
To independently adjust the rear derailleur on a bicycle, you just need to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions from experts in this process. So, follow all the steps:
- Move the chain to the small sprocket with the right shifter.
- Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
- Find the screw with the “H” mark. Use a screwdriver to adjust this screw so that the smallest star lies in the same plane with the rollers, which are located in the foot (frame).
- Pull the cable by hand and fix it with the screw.
- Check the operation of the switch, and if it does not work correctly, the chain does not switch well to large stars, then you need to tighten the cable harder (either with the help of a drum or with a switch).
- Move the chain to the largest sprocket available in the cassette.
- Find the screw marked “L” and adjust it so that the tab (frame) and the sprocket are in the same plane. in this case, the crossover will not be able to get into the spokes of the front wheel.
How to adjust the front derailleur
There are also clear and simple step-by-step instructions for adjusting the front derailleur:
- Move the chain to a smaller star.
- Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
- We find a screw marked “L”, with its help we adjust the position of the frame so that the chain is between the plates of the frame, but at the same time does not touch them.
- We stretch the cable, fix it with a screw.
- Now we move the chain in the cassette to a smaller sprocket. it is convenient to do this using the rear derailleur.
- With the front derailleur, move the chain to the middle sprocket and look. if the chain on the second one touches the outer side of the frame everywhere, then you need to increase the tension of the cable using the drum located on the left shifter.
- We switch the gear to the largest sprocket in the cassette and check. if the chain touches the walls of the frame, you need to move the last element so that the chain is in the middle. This manipulation can be done using the screw marked “H”.
Adjustment and adjustment of the front derailleur
I strongly recommend that you set up the rear derailleur so that everything works correctly for you before you start setting / adjusting the front derailleur. This manual will fit all brands and models of front derailleurs: Shimano, Sram, Microshift, Campagnolo and others.
Before starting the front derailleur adjustment
Before you start adjusting the front derailleur, make sure you have the following conditions:
We start by unscrewing (loosening) the bolt that holds the front derailleur cable.
Usually the bolt is unscrewed with a 5 hexagon or a 9 spanner.
Next, I recommend checking the position of the switch frame relative to the star system.
If your switch is bolted to the frame, and not with a clamp, as in my case, then you do not need to set the height and angle of the switch, since everything is already exhibited there.
A. Check the swing angle. The switch frame must be parallel to the stars of the system.
Try to orient yourself not by the chain, but by the stars, as the chain can stand in extreme gears and the front derailleur will not be installed correctly. With red lines, I showed the central star and the inner side of the switch.
B. Check the height. The front derailleur frame should be slightly higher by 1-3mm. than the largest star in the system. To adjust, slide the frame with your hand so that it is above the 3rd star and adjust the height.
Shimano Tourney derailleur frame sticker that assists in front derailleur height adjustment. In the photo, by the way, a new bike on which the front derailleur is set much higher than necessary.
Most often, new shimano front derailleurs have a sticker that shows the height of the derailleur.
Now let’s start working with the cable and shifter on the handlebars.
A. Find the cable tension bolt on the shifter and screw it all the way into the shifter and turn it half a turn.
The cable tensioner is indicated with an arrow. In my case, this is a combo grip (brake and shifter in one body), but on a regular shifter the tensioner is the same.
B. Pull the cable by hand or use pliers and tighten it with the fixing bolt, which I wrote about in point 1. Please note that there are special grooves on the washers holding the cable. It is necessary to fix the cable in them.
We begin to set the extreme positions of the switch frame with bolts “H” and “L”.
“High”. sets the extreme position at the largest star in the system.
“Low”. adjusts the extreme position of the switch on the smallest star.
We expose the extreme position of the frame using the bolt “L”
To adjust the extreme position of the bolt “L”, you must shift to the largest sprocket on the rear derailleur (corresponds to the first speed on the shifter). Next, we begin to turn the bolt “L” until there is a gap of about 1 mm between the chain (which is located on the smallest star of the system) and the switch frame (the smaller the better, the main thing is that the chain does not rub against the switch frame).
Set the center position of the front derailleur frame
It is necessary to transfer the chain to the central stars of the cassette using the rear derailleur. We switch from the first to the second speed (the chain should initially be on the 1st star), if it does not switch, then it is necessary to tighten the cable with the tension regulator (see paragraph 3.A), which is located on the shifter. We twist until the chain clearly and quickly transitions to the middle star.
We expose the extreme position of the frame using the bolt “H”
When setting the extreme “H” position, we need to switch to the smallest star on the cassette, which corresponds to the largest number on the right shifter from 6 to 11, depending on how many speeds you have there. We put the chain on the third star (the largest star on the system) and turn the screw “H”. We adjust the frame so that the chain does not fly onto the connecting rod with a clearance pedal of 1 mm will be enough.
Checking the clarity of gear shifting.
Try to change gears and see if the chain goes to all stars.
Most often, the chain does not go from the second star to the first and clings to the switch frame. This is solved by unscrewing the bolt “L” (so that the switch frame moves towards the frame) one or two turns and everything should work perfectly.
Differences between setting a road derailleur and MTB
There is no difference in front derailleur settings on mountain bikes and road bikes. The only thing is that in a road bike, the star system does not use 3 stars, but two stars, which makes the tuning faster.
If you have a dual system. You will also need to complete all the points, and in the 4th step there will be no adjustment of the central position, and the tension of the cable will be adjusted when switching to the 2nd star, where there will be an adjustment of the extreme position with the screw “H”.
Congratulations you have tuned the front derailleur, I also recommend checking if you have the correct chain length.
Cycling Front Derailleur Adjustment
At some point, any bike enthusiast has to repair and adjust the front derailleurs (FPS) on bicycles. The frequency of repairs, as a rule, depends on the cheapness of the product. There are many reasons for the failure of the switch and it makes no sense to analyze them all. The principle of operation will be the same. This article describes the detailed steps for setting and adjusting switches.
Bicycle front derailleur selection rules. Its design and principles of operation.
The process of adjusting and adjusting the PPS of the bike should begin with a detailed acquaintance with the design features.
Let’s analyze the functions of all individual elements of the PPP.
- Clamp. This part serves to mount the derailleur to the bike body.
- Parallelogram product. Spring loaded product with hinges. In fact, this is the basis of the moving element of the PPS, with the function of fastening the frame.
- The guide frame consists of outer and inner sides. There is a chain in her insides.
- Bolts L and H. Serve to adjust the movement of the frame in relation to the bike body. Limit the degree of movement.
- Bolt securing the cable. Designed for clear fixation of this element.
Let’s move on to the principle of the teaching staff. It consists in simply throwing the chain over the selected sprocket. At the same time, in the process, when the transmission is shifted from a diametrically large sprocket to a small one, the tension of the cable weakens. The spring forces the parallelogram along with the frame to move towards the body. The outside of the frame puts pressure on the chain, causing it to bounce off a specific sprocket. If it is required to transfer to a large star, the procedure is carried out in the reverse order. That is, the cable stretches and shifts the parallelogram in the opposite direction from the body. The frame, with its inner part and special hooks, casts onto a larger type of star.
Bolts L and H prevent the parallelogram from leaving the end positions.
What parameters can be used to select the best PPS modifications? To correctly answer this question, experts recommend considering three criteria:
- fastening method;
- type of cable supply;
- sprocket system specifications.
As for the mounting method, there are three types.
- Fastening is made on the basis of “Braze-on”.
- Fixing with a clamp to the frame.
- Directly to the bicycle carriage.
The second method is the most common and reliable. Clamp dimensions vary with frame thickness.
The cable runs to the switch in two ways:
- through the top tube of the frame;
- through the bottom tube of the frame.
Each of the described methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Now let’s dwell on the characteristics of the sprocket system. Consider all the parameters that you should pay attention to when selecting a PPP, so as not to buy an unnecessary thing.
- Determine the type of system (two or three speeds).
- Estimate the largest diameter of the sprocket. The frame depends on this criterion for the width of the bend.
- We calculate the capacity. To do this, you need to determine the difference between the teeth of the largest star and the smallest by simple subtraction.
- We also determine the difference between the large and medium stars. Incorrect value will result in poor switch performance.
- Pay attention to the length of the axis. If the carriage axis does not coincide with the settings of the switch, the operation of the latter will become partial.
- Calculate the angle between the seat tube and chainstays.
Using all of the above indicators, you can acquire a suitable type of switch.
Front derailleur setting.
Front Derailleur Installation Procedure
What steps should be taken before adjusting the front derailleur? Usually, the adjustment is preceded by disassembly of the PPS and its removal for maintenance. It is very important to set the front derailleur clearly before performing the setup procedure.
Many cyclists ask the question of how to install the PPP on a bicycle by independent actions. Let’s analyze such an algorithm point by point.
- The ideal position is when the guide frame in the area of the longitudinal axis is parallel to the front sprockets. It is better to dismantle the chain during installation.
- Achieving the minimum distance between the frame and the large star by aligning and bending the parallelogram.
- Determine the height according to which the clamp will fix the switch. Tighten the clamp fixing bolt slightly.
- The position of the frame axis is adjusted by turning the switch. In this case, the frame should become parallel to the front star system.
- We check the distance from the frame to the largest sprocket and the parallelism parameters. Tighten the clamp retainer.
- The installation is complete. We put on the chain and go to setting
PPP setting procedure
For starters, it is advisable to position the bike so that the rear wheel is raised. A regular ironing board is ideal for this.
We carry out clearly sequential steps of action.
- First, the lowest speed on the switch is set. In this case, the cable cannot be fixed on the cross-over. Using the shifter, we pull the cable up to the stop with rotary movements clockwise. No need to tighten as much as possible.
- The rear derailleur is set to the lowest speed position. As a result. the first speed on both stars.
- We adjust the L limiter, bringing the inner side of the frame closer to the chain. The described bolt rotates counterclockwise.
- The cable is mounted in the place of attachment to the PPP and tightened with pliers. We fix.
- Set the gear in front to the largest sprocket, and behind _ to the smallest.
- We pass to the limiter H. The outer side should be as close to the chain as possible. Adjust with rotary movements.
- Now set the speed to 5 on the rear derailleur. When pedaling, we change the speed of the PPS over the entire range.
- We set the speed 2 in front and, changing the position of the rear cross-over, we check the friction of the chain against the frame. In the presence of such a defect, adjustment is made by tensioning the cable.
- We test the switch on a level and safe section of the road.
The mechanism for eliminating problems after the settings made
In principle, PPS regulation is a simple simple algorithm involving home maintenance of a bicycle. If you strictly adhere to the described instructions, then there should be no problems with the setup. At the same time, too frequent adjustments can damage the switch or reduce its functionality.
Consider the features and nuances of using a bike after setting the PPP. These recommendations will save time on repairs and avoid wear and tear of bike components.
- When starting, use extremely low gears. This has to be done because of the enormous effort involved.
- To facilitate this procedure, it is best to use the lowest gear in the transmission.
- The speeds should be changed gradually, without jumping over several positions.
- When overcoming the rise, the transmission is lowered in advance. You cannot do this when moving up.
- It is not recommended to change gears when the bike is idle. In this position, the tension is low and breakage may occur when starting the movement. Therefore, the process of switching the speed is carried out in the direction of travel.
- The chain has been thrown. We do not immediately increase the pressure. The chain must fully enter the new rhythm of movement.
If you calmly understand the problem described, then the adjustment and adjustment procedure does not look difficult and incomprehensible. The main thing is not to rush and adhere to the guidelines. No need to get upset if it didn’t work out right away. Calm down and repeat your steps again. Remember, the hardest part is fitting the front derailleur onto the frame. Nothing depends on the manufacturer of the transfer. Only your attention and patience.
Bicycle front derailleur setting. Bicycle speed switch
The bicycle rides only due to the strength of the human muscles. That is why any change in relief is immediately felt. It doesn’t have a motor that doesn’t care. go up the hill, straight or down. Mountain bikes, road bikes, hybrids, etc. all have one thing in common. they all have handlebar switches. They help the cyclist to adapt to any changes in the relief, which has a much better effect on the comfort and sensations of a person.
What are speed switches?
You can remember the old Soviet bicycles. Their owners had not even heard of high-speed models at that time. One large sprocket at the front and one small sprocket at the back. Everything is very simple. This type of bike is called a single speed, but now we are not talking about it. It was only later that the first high-speed bicycles appeared, equipped with whole cassettes or ratchets, consisting of several stars. A mechanism was invented to switch stars among themselves. There are two of them on the bike: a front derailleur on the handlebars and a rear one. By switching gears, you can choose the most optimal mode with which it will be convenient.
What are bike derailleurs
Many people do not know, but there are different speed derailleurs. Each type is special in its own way, it has both positive and negative sides. There are only three types of speed derailleurs: external, internal and combination.
External type of speed switches
The most common switches are external. They work according to a very simple principle. A chain runs through the metal frame. When you need to switch from one star to another, the frame moves to the desired side. She thereby moves the chain to the next level. This is how the switching process takes place. Setting up the front derailleur of this type of bike will be the easiest as the design of the mechanism is very simple.
This front derailleur is attached with clamps. They also differ in the diameter of the seatpost. Carriage mounting plates are also sometimes used. They are mainly installed on non-standard frames.
This type has its pros and cons. The positive aspects include the fact that they are lightweight, which is an undoubted plus. Also, if you use high-quality lubricants, you can reduce the effect of friction to a minimum. Its simplicity makes it repairable and cheap, which is a component of its popularity. Of the minuses, one can single out the fact that the transmission is very susceptible to natural conditions. The accumulated dirt and dust will significantly shorten the service life. To increase the resource of the chain, you need to constantly maintain the transmission: clean it from dirt, lubricate and replace the links.
Internal type switches
This type of switch is also called a planetary hub. Bicycles with this type of gear shifting have only one sprocket in the front and one in the back. The whole trick is in the rear wheel hub. It is there that a whole series of gears are located, which are combined with each other. This changes the speed of the bike.
One of the biggest benefits of this type of shifter is its indifference to weather and road conditions. Due to the fact that the entire mechanism is protected by the case, dirt, water and dust do not get there. Therefore, planetary hubs are durable and very reliable. Also, from the insignificant, it can be deduced that this type of speed switch can be used even in a stationary state. The speed will switch regardless of whether the bike is moving or not.
The disadvantage of this mechanism is that it is very heavy compared to its predecessor. Planets are also quite expensive. Its efficiency, by the way, is lower than that of a conventional switch. This is due to the high friction between different parts. It should also be noted that it is impossible to repair such a breakdown during a trip. You need to contact the bike workshop.
Combined type switches
Combo switches are somewhere between external and internal. This type has not become widespread due to the fact that it has all the negative aspects of previous devices. Combo derailleurs are mainly used for city bikes only.
When to adjust the front derailleur?
If you have experience, then repairing a bicycle with your own hands is not such a difficult thing. Sometimes it happens that the derailleurs stop throwing the chain to other stars or the derailleur needs to be pulled out to change the speed. That’s when you need to adjust the bike’s front derailleur. This breakdown is not serious or complex, so you can easily fix it yourself. In general, tuning can be carried out even in the field. You can also clearly understand when you need to repair your bike with your own hands, by the sound. If you suddenly hear that the chain has begun to touch the metal frame, then this is another sure sign that the bike has lost the switch settings.
Front derailleur brands. Bicycle front derailleur adjustment
Let’s move on to the main question. Setting up your bike’s front derailleur isn’t all that difficult. The main thing in this business. start and gain some experience. First you need to set the smallest gear. This can be achieved when both the front and the rear of the chain are on the first (closest) sprockets to the frame. If you look closely, next to the frame there are two screws marked “H” and ” L”. It is they who are needed for this case.
The first step is to release the derailleur cable. This can be done with a hex wrench, screwdriver or wrench. On bicycles, they differ from each other: for one it is unscrewed with a hexagon, and for another with a key or screwdriver. After that, you can already proceed with the direct adjustment of the front derailleur of the bicycle. By changing the position of the screw “L”, you need to achieve such an option so that the chain is right in the middle of the frame or so that a gap of two to three millimeters is formed. When the gap is set, you need to tighten the adjusting cable back. To do this, you need to pull it towards you as much as possible and screw it back, thereby fixing it.
The next step is to jump to the highest speed. This is when both the front and the back of the chain are on the sprocket farthest from the frame. For this setting, we already need a screw marked “H”. It also needs to be twisted until a gap of at least one millimeter is formed from the chain to the frame. After tuning, it also happens that the chain sometimes gets in or out of the sprockets with difficulty. In order to remove such inaccuracies, you need to try to twist the “lamb”. It is located right at the junction of the switch itself and the rubber sleeve. This little regulator will help smooth out all the inaccuracies when setting up.
Handlebar gear shifter: repair
The front derailleur itself is not repaired. And there is no sense, because the new one is quite inexpensive. The easiest way out of this situation is to simply replace the mechanism itself. It all starts in the same way. to throw the chain onto the smallest stars. Then you need to remove the chain itself. After that, the adjusting cable is loosened. The front shift mechanism itself is held by a clamp, which is clamped with a screw. By unscrewing this screw, you can already remove the switch. Sometimes you need to twitch it a little, since over the years, parts can “get attached”.
The new switch is installed in the reverse order: installation, cable, adjustment. By the way, when aligning the front derailleur in height, you need to know that the distance from the frame to the largest star should be about three millimeters. Next, you need to place the crossover in the plane of the stars. To do this, you just need to look from above and set the mechanism with your hand so that it runs parallel with the sprockets. After all this, you need to adjust the front derailleur of the bike, because after replacing all the previous adjustments are lost.
A bicycle, like any other technique, needs maintenance. Remember the saying “the machine loves caress, cleaning and lubrication”?
There are two main approaches to maintenance (MOT): MTBF and preventive maintenance. This applies not only to bicycles, but to any equipment. The bottom line: in the first case, we change the part only when it has broken, and in the second, we inspect the bike with some frequency, sort out and lubricate the nodes, and change all worn out and suspicious parts.
The first option is applicable only if you drive close to home. This approach only makes sense to apply to nonresponsible and inexpensive nodes. If you are going on a long journey, then you should conduct a thorough inspection of the bike and replace all worn out parts. For all critical or expensive nodes, the second approach should be taken, which can increase the service life of the nodes themselves or their associated nodes. As you might guess, the second method of maintenance is much more expensive, but it allows you to be confident in your bike.
General Guidelines for Bicycle Maintenance.
The maintenance of your bike itself can be divided into inspection, adjustment and repair.
By the frequency of carrying out, it is possible to distinguish periodic maintenance and current, arising as needed. There are two periodic maintenance cycles for bicycles: let’s call them annual and monthly maintenance. The annual service is carried out once a year or once every 5000 km when using the bike under normal conditions, whichever comes first. Monthly service. every 1000 km or every 10 trips. Routine maintenance. after each trip or as needed.
Below is an approximate table for bike maintenance. Approximate, because the frequency of maintenance is still significantly dependent on operating conditions. detailed explanations below the table.
Bicycle chain can be lubricated with almost any lubricant. During the ride, the lubricated chain quickly becomes covered with dust and dirt forms, which is easily washed off. But if you allow driving on an unlubricated chain, then the front and rear sprockets, the speed switch will work much worse, hard and with a creak. This can be avoided by regularly lubricating the chain and removing dirt from the chain links as soon as it appears.
For a cyclist who uses a bicycle actively, the word regularly means: once a week in the winter and possibly once every two weeks in the summer. But if you got into the rain with your bike, then the chain must be abundantly lubricated immediately. An amateur cyclist should make it a rule to lubricate the chain after every cross-country ride and after traveling more than 70 kilometers on the highway.
In addition to regularly lubricating the chain, you should also regularly lubricate your bike with a full program. When lubricating, remember to clean and adjust individual parts and components of the bike.
- The axles of rotation of the rear brakes constantly come into contact with dirt and water and therefore, in order to avoid corrosion, they need regular lubrication, preferably from a can in an aerosol can. But this must be done carefully, avoiding the ingress of grease on the wheel rims.
- The axles of the wheels for the transmission of chain movement are not lubricated when the chain is lubricated, so do the same as in step 1.
- The rear shift pivot axes also need lubrication, see p. 1. Generally, everything that moves must be lubricated. Then gently remove excess grease.
- The front derailleur is lubricated in eight places using the same technology. The cable is also lubricated at the points of entry and exit from the shirt.
- After cleaning, the chain, first of all, must be impregnated with lubricant from a spray can in an aerosol can, allow time for impregnation, especially if the lubricant is thick. Then the second time is impregnated with a thicker grease.
- The axles of the brake levers should also be lubricated. By pulling the brake lever to failure, it is possible to lubricate the brake cable, which reduces wear on the latter.
- Lubrication of the front brake axles is carried out in the same way as for the rear. Particular attention should be paid to the correct installation of the brake pads relative to the wheel rim.
- All cables on the bike need to be lubricated, or simply lubricate the places where the cable enters and exits the jacket, but it is better, but best of all, lubricate with liquid grease at an angle when the grease flows deep into the jacket.
Quick bike cleaning.
If you ride a bike in dry weather, then dust accumulates in all corners and cracks. If you don’t have time to wash the bike before lubricating, brush away dust with a brush, just be careful not to brush the oiled chain with the brush. Removing dust with a brush reduces the likelihood of dirt getting onto the moving parts of the contacting mechanisms through the lubricant.
General cleaning of the bike.
Bicycles always need a good cleaning after riding on muddy roads. However, any type of bike looks much better after washing and polishing.
Naturally, the bike should be washed with liquid detergents, best of all containing a weak solution of solvent or special detergent, since it is this composition that best removes oil containing dirt from the surface of the frame. After washing, the frame may dry out and become unkempt due to salts coming out. Subsequent treatment with automotive polishing fluid will help keep your bike looking neat.
If there are places where it was not possible to wash out the dirt completely, then add a little solvent to the water and brush over the unwashed places. If the bike is covered in non-oily dirt, it is best to use a car wash shampoo for washing, as it is less aggressive and does not remove the thin wax film.
Do not wash your bike in the sun, as the frame dries very quickly and uneven drips are possible. You should not wash your bike using a high-pressure water hose, since the bearings of various bike mechanisms do not push out water that gets inside the latter under pressure.
You can use a low pressure water hose and do not direct the water jet directly at the bushings, carriage, gear selectors and steering column.
Bicycle cleaning equipment.
- Aerosol can with lubricant;
- Liquid detergent.
To clean your bike thoroughly, add liquid detergent or car shampoo to half a bucket of water. You should start washing from the frame using a sponge or brush.
Wash the entire bike again to remove dirt from hard-to-reach areas. Use a bottle brush to remove dirt from hard-to-reach crevices and corners helps a lot.
If after washing the bike there are areas where there are drops of dirt and foam, then they should be removed with a degreaser. Easily reach hard-to-reach places with an old toothbrush.
If you have enough time, use a bucket of clean warm water to rinse the foam off the frame and fenders with water. You can use a sponge for this, but this must be done with great care as there is a risk of scratching the surface with dirt particles.
Wipe the frame, fenders, saddle and handlebars with a clean cloth or chamois leather. Then use a spray can of grease to lubricate bushings, switches, etc. mechanisms where water can penetrate. This must be done:
- after driving over rough terrain;
- every two to three months.
- half an hour for quality work;
- 10 minutes if you are in a hurry.
- a brush for washing bottles;
- special brush;
- suede leather.
Wash, lubricate and drive.
When you have finished washing your bike and even after you have dried it, be very careful as there is a danger of water seeping into the bearings. On the other hand, if the bike is not washed, there is a danger of dirt getting into the bearings. Therefore, it is necessary to work in two parts. washing and lubrication. to be considered as one.
Checking bike readiness.
This will help you keep your bike in good condition, whether you ride it daily or prepare for cross-country riding.
The first three steps in this are on the brakes. If you find any defect in this part, then until you eliminate it. whether you adjust the tension of the old cables or replace them with new ones, replace the brake pads or do any other work. you cannot operate the bike. And it’s understandable why: malfunctions of other systems can cause inconvenience, but they are not dangerous, which are the malfunctions of the brake system. Ideally, this should be done before the “Quick Lubrication” program, but after the “Big Clean” program. This will allow you to carry out the check without getting dirty or dirty or grease, but do not forget to lubricate the bike at the end of the check.
The next step in the check is to check the chassis. This would seem obvious, but it is not so easy to do, especially if there are faults in the steering column. If there are malfunctions in the steering column, you will “hear” them. this is how you will hear a characteristic knock in the steering column during impacts or sudden braking with the front brake. If there is a slight weakening, which is easily detected with a finger placed between the frame and the fork, then this defect is eliminated simply by tightening the column. The next step is to test the chain drive. First of all, make sure that the carriage axle, connecting rods, both left and right, do not have “backlash”.
Shift cables have the same abrasion tendencies as brake cables. However, the main reason for the abrasion of the cables, and hence the decrease in the reliability of the entire bike as a whole, is the incorrect adjustment of the gearshift mechanism. Therefore, a functional check of the speed selectors should be carried out by trying to shift to all sprockets. If the chain jumps off the outer sprockets or jumps in jerks, then the shifting mechanism should be adjusted. When changing gears. switching should be carried out instantly and without grinding. Finally, check that the saddle and handlebars are securely attached. In this case, you should not tighten the bolts too tightly, it is enough that the saddle or handlebar does not turn with a small amount of effort.
- If the brakes are adjusted correctly, then full braking is carried out already when the brake lever is pressed only to the middle of its full travel. If this is not the case, then this indicates a malfunction.
- Even when the brakes are correctly adjusted, attention should be paid to the brake pads. They must be free from wear, potholes, and have a clearance of at least 1 millimeter between the rim and the pad.
- The brake cable usually wears out at the cable tension and attachment points. Make sure these sections of the cable are in good condition. Also check the tension of the cable. it should be tensioned without excessive tension, but also without sagging.
- After checking the handlebar and stem for cracks or defects, make sure the handlebar and stem are level with the front wheel. Then check the condition of the front brake.
- Check the condition of the connecting rods for any wobbling. Any swinging of the connecting rods around the axle is unacceptable. In simple cases, swing is eliminated by tightening the connecting rod bolt to the axle.
- If you grab the ends of the connecting rods and try to move the latter to the left and right, and if you succeeded even a little, then you have problems with the carriage.
- Remove the chain from the front sprockets so you can rotate the crank arms freely. The rear wheel can also be removed if necessary. In this position, it is easy to determine if the carriage needs lubrication.
- Using the hex wrench, check the fastening conditions of the front sprocket bolts on the right connecting rod. Then make sure that the pedals rotate freely and without extraneous sounds.
- Make sure the rear derailleur is in good working order, the condition of the chain rollers. Check the smoothness and accuracy of gear shifting from low to high and from high to low. Check the lock of the extreme left and right positions of the switch.
- Check the condition of the front derailleur. Note the parallelism of the circuit to the switch brackets. Switching must be fast and reliable.
- Finally, check that the bolts that secure the saddle to the seat post and the post to the frame are secure. But do not use excessive force to avoid thread breakage.
Bicycle wheel and tire maintenance.
When you lightly rotate the front wheel, then during rotation there should be no grazing for anything, no extraneous noise. If the wheel, rotating quickly, stops or an extraneous noise is heard, then the wheel hub should be disassembled and lubricated. If the wheel “walks” from side to side during rotation, then it is necessary, first, to determine the cause of this phenomenon. either it is a crooked rim, or a bad tire. It should be borne in mind that absolutely flat tires do not exist. there are more or less even, as for the rim, then the runout of the rim can be brought to tenths of a millimeter. Note also the vertical runout of the rim. If you determine that the tire is smooth and free from defects, then it may not fit the size of the wheel rim.
All wheel spokes must have the same tension. If any of the spokes are overtightened. their tension should be reduced, if the tension of the spokes is too weak.
you should tighten them. It should be remembered that if you change the tension of at least one spoke, you should carry out a complete readjustment of the tension of all the spokes of the wheel.
When you test the condition of a tire for the quality of its inflation. It should be borne in mind that the probability of a tire puncture is higher with a weakly inflated tube, the harder the tire, the lower the probability of a puncture, however, the damping effect of a tire that is too steeply inflated is reduced. This means that even the smallest pothole on the road, you will feel, which increases fatigue.
Bicycle wheel and tire testing.
- Raise the bike by the handlebars and lightly move the front wheel. If the rim or tire has a runout, then the wheel should be removed after fixing the runout point.
- If the rim has a bend, then the spokes on the opposite side should “select” this bend. Make sure not to overtighten these knitting needles.
- While turning the wheel, carefully examine the surface of the tire and if you find any foreign objects, then remove them using, for example, a screwdriver. Pay attention to the tire cuts, wear and tread defects. Replace the tire in case of serious violations.
- Often the side of the tire between the tread and the rim is white or yellow and has a fairly strong and durable material. If the fabric material is visible from under the cover or if it has cuts, the tire should be replaced, since riding on such a tire is dangerous.
- Check the condition of the wheel axle. The rotation of the wheel must be free without rubbing. If there is rubbing, then lay the wheel horizontally and drip a few drops of liquid machine oil into the gap between the axle and the hub.
Inflating Bicycle Wheels.
- In order to inflate a wheel with a PESTA-type valve, unscrew the nut by a couple of threads and push the stem down until a characteristic sound of air emerges. In order for the inflation to take place with maximum efficiency. that is, it was not too difficult, but at the same time the air did not come out spontaneously. you should slightly unscrew or tighten the nut.
- Some road and mountain bikes have a Schrader valve (car) with a stem that has a larger diameter than the Presta. Some pumps have a head that fits both the first type of valve and the second. Do not use garage air lines to inflate wheels. this is dangerous.
- Most pumps have such a nozzle, the design of which allows the wheel to be inflated by simply putting it on the valve, however, often when the nozzle is not fitted, air passes by. Therefore, the diameter of the nozzle should be carefully selected so that the rubberized hole of the nozzle would tightly cover the chamber valve.
- When the wheel is inflated, make sure that the valve stem is exactly vertical to the rim. Also tighten the locking nut on the valve body, while tightening should be done with fingers only. overtightening may damage the chamber valve. Then put on or screw on the protective cap.
Bike camera problems.
If the camera lowers, and you do not know the place of the defect, the search for the latter should start with the valve. for this, the wheel is rotated so that the valve is in the upper position. Then they substitute a vessel with water and dip the screwed valve into it. if bubbles appear, then the chamber must be replaced with a new one, if the valve is in order and the chamber blows off, then the chamber has a puncture.
Hard-to-spot bike malfunctions.
After the “10-minute readiness check” of the bike, you already have enough knowledge to eliminate the simplest difficulties. On this page, you will learn how to fix more serious problems.
A 10-minute check will tell you, basically, just how safe the bike is and is minimally ready to ride. But you have to understand the difference between just riding a non-fitted, only minimally adjusted bike and the pleasure of riding a carefully fitted, adjusted bicycle, on which all devices and mechanisms work like a clock. It is the last steps that this chapter is devoted to.
First of all, pay close attention to your fit.
- 1. You need to start with the saddle, more precisely, with the definition. and whether it suits you. It should be borne in mind that in addition to the height of the saddle, the saddle has a back-and-forth offset adjustment and saddle tilt to increase ride comfort. But the greatest difficulty is the adjustment of the speed switches. If the switches do not work well, be sure to adjust them. Poor performance can be caused by a worn chain or teeth of both the drive and driven gears or the mechanism of the front or rear derailleur itself. You should also look at the runout of the wheels during rotation. note that the runout in a millimeter is considered to be on the verge of permissible. After you have brought the condition of the wheels to, at least, acceptable, then you will immediately feel it while driving and will be surprised at the fact that you did not do this before. A good indicator of the correct operation of all the mechanisms of the bicycle is their quiet operation. And this despite the fact that, as a rule, during work, parts made of different metals or materials come into contact. If extraneous noises still appear, do not try to eliminate them by tightening the mechanism. most likely you will only rip off the thread. Now about the brakes. If your rubberized brake pads have worn down by a millimeter from the side, then most likely the rim will not grip as well as with new pads when braking. As the latter wear out until they are completely worn out, they should be brought into the so-called state of parallelism of the surface of the pads and the rim. Replacing with new pads should solve this problem completely, however, attention should be paid to the condition of the rim surface. And finally, after you have made sure that the bike is in perfect order. pay attention to the wear of certain components. To secure the seat mount, you must tighten the bolts very tightly, otherwise it can let you down at the most inopportune moment.
- 2. Pay attention to chain wear. To determine, it is enough to grasp the chain link in the place where it is located on the large sprocket of the drive gear. If the link rises with the adjacent links stationary, then the chain must be changed to a new one. Blurred, noisy gear shifting is an indicator of chain and gear teeth wear.
- 3. If an abnormal noise is heard while driving, and after stopping pedaling, it disappears, then a poorly adjusted rear derailleur is a possible cause. Try pulling or loosening the derailleur cable to move the chain to the correct position.
- 4. In order to prevent the chain from falling off the gears in the extreme positions of the switch, it is necessary to set with the help of bolts specially provided for this purpose such a position that it would be excluded from falling. If this cannot be achieved, then the chain is too long. However, the chain can be shortened by removing the links to the extent that it is still possible to freely switch to the large front and rear gears.
- 5. The tire should look good not only from a distance, but also on careful examination. If the tire does not look new, then it is recommended to lower it and carefully examine it for cracks and cuts.
- 6. When driving, the bike must not make any extraneous sounds. The sound source may be an unlubricated chain, loose bolts and nuts. check their condition before driving.
- 7. Bad brakes can damage brake pads. You need to have good, reliable brakes. Poor braking can also be caused by dirt. and grease on the rims. You also need to be able to maintain the rims. for example, wipe them with alcohol or wash them periodically with warm water and soap.
- 8. A symptom of poor braking performance can be whistling and uneven grip when braking, the reason for this may be the non-parallel position of the brake pad relative to the rim. A well-adjusted brake pad position is considered when the front edge of the pad is 1 millimeter closer to the rim than the rear.
- 9. Poor braking can also be caused by a poorly adjusted steering column. Place your hands on the steering column and then apply the front brake. If you feel any movement in the steering column, then it should be adjusted.
- 10. Pay attention to the pedals. Poor pedals can be caused by a bent axle or overtightened cones or lack of lubrication.
Fine tuning the bike’s rear derailleur
If the speed switch is set correctly, then during its operation you will have to adjust it only slightly, due to stretching or replacement of the cable.
Adjustment is made with an adjusting drum located on the shifter, on the speed switch itself (for mountain bikes) or on the top of the lower frame tube, near the shirt stop (for road bikes) of the cable, some switches may have two drums. Adjustment can be done with any adjusting drum, it makes no difference which one to use.
Before tuning, shift the shifter to the highest gear (small sprocket), make sure the shift lever is in its full position.
Next, switch the shifter to the next speed and pedal forward. The chain should move to the next sprocket. If the chain does not cross, then the cable is not tight, turn the adjusting drum counterclockwise and the cable is taut. Turn the drum half a turn and try changing the speed again. Be careful, if you overtighten the drum, the entire shift chain may shift, as a result the gears will shift normally, but there will be malfunctions in the extreme positions. Therefore, first of all set up the first two switching steps.
Principles of fine-tuning the speed switch
- To set up switching to large sprockets, you need to pull the cable;
If the chain decelerates to a large sprocket, the cable is loose. turn the adjusting drum counterclockwise.
- To set up switching to small sprockets, you must loosen the cable;
If the chain decelerates to the small sprocket, the cable is weak. turn the adjusting drum clockwise.
If the shifting of the reverse gears on one chainring is normal, but on the other it is bad, most likely the cock will bend.
Tension adjustment screw (“B-tension”)
Modern switches have two levers. First (“A-pivot”) is located below and provides the elevation of the gearshift frame up to the small sprocket. The second (“B-pivot”) moves the derailleur frame in the opposite direction to the large sprocket. The spring tension on these levers must be balanced to ensure smooth gear shifting.
Most rear derailleurs have a special screw (Shimano terminology “B-tension adjuster”) to adjust the spring tension of the lever “B”. As a result of adjusting this screw, the height of the guide roller is adjusted (the angle of inclination of the chain from this roller to the sprocket).
To tune, slide the chain onto the large sprocket at the back. By unscrewing the adjusting screw counterclockwise, the roller rises (closer to the sprocket). This increases the tension of the chain and increases the precision of gear shifting. Be careful, the roller should not touch the star, leave a gap of 5 mm.
Campagnolo rear derailleurs
Since 2001, all Campagnolo derailleur models have the A-tension adjustment for the lever spring. In fact, this setting is the exact opposite of the above “B-tension adjustment“: loosening the spring of lever “A” achieves the same result as tightening the spring of lever “B”.