Bicycle Front Derailleur Not Shifting

How to set up a Shimano front derailleur on a mountain bike

Statistics confirm that the front “shifter” requires less maintenance than the rear. Simplicity of design is also on the “front” side. Why, then, there are a lot of questions when installing and adjusting this unit. What is the capriciousness of the front crossover? And in the end, how to do the work so that the result does not cause discontent and criticism.

The scheme of the transfer

bicycle, front, derailleur, shifting

Before adjusting the front derailleur on your bike, we recommend that you study its design. With this knowledge, it is much easier for the performer to navigate the settings and understand the purpose of each of them.

The focus is only on Shimano products as the most popular. In fact, there are practically no differences between Japanese products and American SRAM. As well as between the cheap Tourney and the expensive Deore. over, if you delve into the principle of operation and the essence of the setting, then it will not matter to you which bike is in front of you: a budget Stealth with a front shifter Shimano Altus or an expensive Cube with a super-light Deore XT.

We will understand the device by the photo of the Alivio series switch:

  • Inner and outer part of the guide frame. There is a chain between them. The function of the frame configuration is to move the chain from one chainring to another.
  • A spring-loaded parallelogram to which a frame is attached. Moves when pulling / loosening the cable, dragging the frame structure with it.
  • Cable fixing bolt. By means of a cable, the shifter moves the parallelogram.
  • End position adjusting bolts (L and H). With their help, the border positions of the frame are adjusted so that the chain does not jump off the first and third stars.
  • Clamp. Secures the crossover to the center tube (into which the seatpost fits).

Diagnostics of the current state

The chain throwing accuracy depends not only on the set adjustments. The role is also played by the position of the crossover relative to the stars and the deviation of the frame geometry from the nominal shape. It also happens that the cable simply broke and the switch does not work corny. That is why we placed the diagnostic stage before the description of the complete regulation procedure.

Why do not front gears switch when changing from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd

The reason the chain does not roll over to the large front sprockets without additional tension is due to the stretched cable. In this situation, there is no need to configure from scratch. It is enough to twist the shifting lever and everything will fall into place.

Unscrew the thumbscrew 1 turn and try shifting in place by lifting the rear wheel and pedaling. If the chain still does not move freely onto the large sprockets, then spin the drum half a turn and try using the re-roll in place again. Repeat the ½ turn. check series until shifts in both directions are accurate.

Having achieved a clear transfer in place, ride and test the operation of the front speed block. Under load, the setting may not seem so ideal, so you have to twist the drum in one direction or another within ½ a turn and immediately check the new position while driving.

Why the chain does not move to the front large sprocket

If the chain goes from the 1st sprocket to the 2nd chain without hindrance, but does not switch from the 2nd to the 3rd, then the matter is in the wrong boundary position of the front crossover. You can knock it down during the repair process:

  • Incorrectly selected carriage cartridge: the length of the shaft does not correspond to the passport documentation for the bicycle.
  • The limiter for moving the frame along a large star (bolt H) is incorrectly set.

Why is the front derailleur rubbing against the chain

To understand what is the matter, one such symptom is not enough. Specify which gear it is in:

  • Hits on the middle star. A skewed gear is used or the cable is under / too tight.
  • It only clings to the first asterisk. The frame limit (bolt L) is incorrectly set, the chain is heavily skewed or the cable is overtightened.
  • Rubbing on the biggest star. The border for large gears (bolt H) is poorly adjusted, the chain is skewed or the cable is not tight.

Front bulkhead replacement technology

If the front derailleur is not correctly positioned on the bike frame, it will not be able to adjust. Since the conversation about the installation methodology is brewing, it is appropriate to discuss the essence of dismantling activities.

How to remove

Disconnecting the chain is indispensable here. We have already studied this procedure in detail in the material on how to change the chain on a bicycle with shifting gears. If there is no lock, then squeeze will be required. But in the future, we advise you not to give up such a convenient little thing as a chain lock.

It is advisable to wash the removed chain. It is important to choose the means, which we have mentioned more than once in the corresponding publication. Although the result of research on technology, how and how to clean a bicycle chain at home. impressed. We came to the conclusion that it is most convenient to do this with a high-pressure jet, and right on the bike.

  • Disconnect the cable from it.
  • Disconnect the frame clamp.

How to install

When securing the derailer on the frame, do not rush to tighten the clamp of its fastening. First, in the case of a thin walled butted frame, overtightening will cause the seat tube to buckle. Secondly, the crossover has not yet been set relative to the stars.

Putting it right means fulfilling two requirements:

  • The frame should be parallel to the stars.
  • There should be a gap of about 2 mm between the teeth of the largest chainring and the frame structure, but not more than 3 mm.

Now tighten the clamp to a reasonable torque and install the chain.

Attention! Remember that frontal throws are different. Therefore, when choosing a new one, consider the following points:

  • Number of teeth on each chainring.
  • Traction type: top or bottom (determines the cable entry. from the bottom of the frame or from the top).

Mountain Bike Front Shimano Derailleur Adjustment

First, use the Shimano Bike Reverse Speed ​​Setting Guide. After all, a working rear dealer is one of the requirements of the preparatory measures. They also include:

  • Checking the cable and shirts. Unwinding and sticking in the shirt is not allowed.
  • Correct installation of the gear selection unit on the frame, described in the previous paragraph.
  • Disconnected cable from derailleur.

The adjustment of the mechanism is carried out strictly in the stated sequence:

  • Adjust the lower gear limiter. Switch to the smallest sprocket in the front and the largest sprocket at the back (this will be 1-1 in the shifters). Turn screw L to bring the chain as close as possible to the inner edge of the frame. In this case, the chain should not rub against the frame structure. Take this step seriously if you don’t want the chain to fly off and get bitten between the carriage and the small star.
  • Connect the cable to the derailleur. Before attaching, screw in the thumbscrew on the shifter until it stops, and then turn it out 1-1.5 turns. At the final stage, this will facilitate readjustment.
  • Adjust the upper gear limiter. Place the chains on the largest chainring at the front and the smallest at the back (for example, on a 27-speed bike, this would be 3-9). Turn screw H to move the outer edge of the frame as close as possible to the chain. Again, the chain should not rub against the transfer.
  • Adjust the precision of the forward throw with the thumb on the shifter. Everyone does it differently. One of the ways is to sit on the bike and, with the help of a drum, select such a cable tension force, at which the chain freely passes from the 1st to the 2nd star and from the 2nd to the 3rd. The second way is to put the bike in place, switch to the middle sprocket and alternately put the 2nd and the penultimate sprocket in the back. The chain should not rub in these positions. The extreme method does not differ in accuracy, requires verification on the move and is unfair for cheap class transfers.

Future issues

Multi-speed bikes with one front sprocket. is it worth buying

The three-star fashion ended with the arrival of 10, 11, 12-speed cassettes. The fact is that on 3×7-3×9 transmissions, three toothed gears in the front perform an important function. they overlap the gear ratios, allowing you to climb hills and screw on descents.

The number of teeth on the new multi-star cassettes has been matched to do the same with one sprocket in front. Therefore, it makes no sense to use two more asterisks. For the XC discipline, this is a significant breakthrough, since the frontal override here is the most unreliable part of the bike.

Is it possible to remove the front derailleur on a 3×9 speed bike

It can be removed if the bike is used in civilian use. Hilly terrain is freely overcome in gears 2-1, 2-2. Optimum speed on plains can be maintained at 2-6 without skewing the chain. But if you are a fan of “twisting” under 27-30 km / h, you will miss a big star.

Bicycle front derailleur setting. How to properly adjust the bike’s front derailleur?

It is generally not worth adjusting the front derailleur until the rear derailleur is configured. But before you tweak something, you need to thoroughly know how it works. Therefore, let’s try to understand the principle of its work.

How this switch works

This is not a Tiptronic automatic transmission and the operation of the switch is very simple. All conventions aside, it’s just a steel frame suspended from a bicycle frame that can move left and right. As it moves, it pushes the bicycle chain and makes it move from one sprocket to another. Powered by a cable that is connected to a shifter on the handlebars.

Everything seems to be simple, but not as it seems. The front derailleur has to work with the busiest top of the chain, which transmits power to the rear sprockets and is always in tension. Therefore, in the event that the derailleur is not set correctly, changing gears will be difficult even with ideal rear shift settings.

To make the whole adjustment clear and understandable, let’s imagine that we are installing it on a bare bike frame. Settings from scratch, kind of.

Installing the front derailleur to the frame

In order to determine if the bulkhead is correctly positioned on the frame, we must ensure that:

  • derailleur frame is 2 mm higher than the teeth of the largest chainring;
  • the frame should be located strictly parallel to the block of leading stars;
  • the bike’s front derailleur is washed, all dirt and dust is removed, it is greased and all adjusting screws rotate freely;
  • the chain is on the largest star in the back and on the smallest star in the front;
  • the drive cable clamping screw is loose;
  • the cable cover is loose (it is in a free, loose state);
  • front crossover angle. the center line should be parallel to the center line of the frame.

Below we have placed a picture in which we tried to demonstrate the initial positions of the entire structure before setting up.

A little tip. the lower the front derailleur is lowered, the clearer it will work.

And here a question arises, the solution of which we cannot influence without replacing the re-throw. If the radius of the star is greater than that for which the switch is designed, then the rear of the frame will catch the teeth of the large star. But sometimes this can be cured by fine adjustments, which we will talk about later. In the meantime, everything is ready and we are waiting for the setting of the front derailleur.

Tuning method

Step one

By turning screw 1, we achieve that the frame is at a minimum distance from the chain from the side of the carriage. Make sure that the chain does not touch the frame.

Step two

Fasten the gearshift cable. Pulling it slightly, fix it with a screw or fastening nut. If there is a spacer washer with a groove, put the cable into it and clamp it.

Step three

We transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the back and to the largest in the front. By turning the screw 2, we achieve the minimum distance between the chain and the frame, but without contact.

Step four

We check the operation of the switch under load. If the chain moves freely along all the stars and does not touch the frame while driving, we can consider the setup complete. Congratulations.

But you will never be able to adjust so that the chain does not rub against the frame at the front highest and rear lowest and vice versa. It is necessary to strive for this, but not everyone succeeds. Therefore, if you want to achieve academic heights in setting up the front changeover, then only practice will help in this.

Sometimes the fault of the frame grinding against the chain can be increased wear of the crossover. It’s easy to check. if the frame has play, it is better to change the speed switch to a new one. Its repair is not worth the time you spend, and a new one is not that expensive, and besides, there will be a guarantee that it will last for more than one season.

But in any case, no matter how carefully you set up the front shifter, it will not save you from the rattle of the chain on the frame if you are not shifting gears correctly. Without going into subtleties, remember the most important thing. you do not need to switch speeds while loading the pedals. Those. stop pedaling for a second, switch the speed and smoothly (without excessive pressure) make a few pedals. When you do not yet realize that the chain has moved to the correct sprocket, you can continue with normal pedaling. over, the cheaper the system on your bike, the stricter it is to follow this rule.

In general, the settings described above are sufficient for comfortable and problem-free operation of the front gearshift.

How to set up a Shimano front derailleur on a mountain bike

Statistics confirm that the front “shifter” requires less maintenance than the rear. Simplicity of design is also on the “front” side. Why, then, there are a lot of questions when installing and adjusting this unit. What is the capriciousness of the front crossover? And in the end, how to do the work so that the result does not cause discontent and criticism.

The scheme of the transfer

Before adjusting the front derailleur on your bike, we recommend that you study its design. With this knowledge, it is much easier for the performer to navigate the settings and understand the purpose of each of them.

The focus is only on Shimano products as the most popular. In fact, there are practically no differences between Japanese products and American SRAM. As well as between the cheap Tourney and the expensive Deore. over, if you delve into the principle of operation and the essence of the setting, then it will not matter to you which bike is in front of you: a budget Stealth with a front shifter Shimano Altus or an expensive Cube with a super-light Deore XT.

We will understand the device by the photo of the Alivio series switch:

  • Inner and outer part of the guide frame. There is a chain between them. The function of the frame configuration is to move the chain from one chainring to another.
  • A spring-loaded parallelogram to which a frame is attached. Moves when pulling / loosening the cable, dragging the frame structure with it.
  • Cable fixing bolt. By means of a cable, the shifter moves the parallelogram.
  • End position adjusting bolts (L and H). With their help, the border positions of the frame are adjusted so that the chain does not jump off the first and third stars.
  • Clamp. Secures the crossover to the center tube (into which the seatpost fits).

Diagnostics of the current state

The chain throwing accuracy depends not only on the set adjustments. The role is also played by the position of the crossover relative to the stars and the deviation of the frame geometry from the nominal shape. It also happens that the cable simply broke and the switch does not work corny. That is why we placed the diagnostic stage before the description of the complete regulation procedure.

Why do not front gears switch when changing from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd

The reason the chain does not roll over to the large front sprockets without additional tension is due to the stretched cable. In this situation, there is no need to configure from scratch. It is enough to twist the shifting lever and everything will fall into place.

Note. Additional pull is pulling the cable in the current mode using the trigger on the shifter. For example, you switch the chain from the first chainring to the second by clicking the knob to the number “2”. The chain rubs against the frame, but does not go over to the adjacent gear wheel. Then you pull up the cable, slightly pushing the handle towards the inclusion of third gear, but not including it, and the chain freely goes to the star

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Unscrew the thumbscrew 1 turn and try shifting in place by lifting the rear wheel and pedaling. If the chain still does not move freely onto the large sprockets, then spin the drum half a turn and try using the re-roll in place again. Repeat the ½ turn. check series until shifts in both directions are accurate.

Note. The lamb’s stroke is limited to 5. 6 turns. If this margin is not enough, then tighten the cable on the switch itself by unscrewing the cable securing bolt. Before clamping, turn the drum on the shifter until it stops, and then release it 1 turn. Repeat the thumbscrew adjustment procedure again.

Having achieved a clear transfer in place, ride and test the operation of the front speed block. Under load, the setting may not seem so ideal, so you have to twist the drum in one direction or another within ½ a turn and immediately check the new position while driving.

Why the chain does not move to the front large sprocket

If the chain goes from the 1st sprocket to the 2nd chain without hindrance, but does not switch from the 2nd to the 3rd, then the matter is in the wrong boundary position of the front crossover. You can knock it down during the repair process:

  • Incorrectly selected carriage cartridge: the length of the shaft does not correspond to the passport documentation for the bicycle.
  • The limiter for moving the frame along a large star (bolt H) is incorrectly set.

Why is the front derailleur rubbing against the chain

To understand what is the matter, one such symptom is not enough. Specify which gear it is in:

  • Hits on the middle star. A skewed gear is used or the cable is under / too tight.
  • It only clings to the first asterisk. The frame limit (bolt L) is incorrectly set, the chain is heavily skewed or the cable is overtightened.
  • Rubbing on the biggest star. The border for large gears (bolt H) is poorly adjusted, the chain is skewed or the cable is not tight.

Note. The chain can touch the frame in any gear, if the edges of the frame are not parallel to the stars.

Front bulkhead replacement technology

If the front derailleur is not correctly positioned on the bike frame, it will not be able to adjust. Since the conversation about the installation methodology is brewing, it is appropriate to discuss the essence of dismantling activities.

How to remove

Disconnecting the chain is indispensable here. We have already studied this procedure in detail in the material on how to change the chain on a bicycle with shifting gears. If there is no lock, then squeeze will be required. But in the future, we advise you not to give up such a convenient little thing as a chain lock.

It is advisable to wash the removed chain. It is important to choose the means, which we have mentioned more than once in the corresponding publication. Although the result of research on technology, how and how to clean a bicycle chain at home. impressed. We came to the conclusion that it is most convenient to do this with a high-pressure jet, and right on the bike.

  • Disconnect the cable from it.
  • Disconnect the frame clamp.

How to install

When securing the derailer on the frame, do not rush to tighten the clamp of its fastening. First, in the case of a thin walled butted frame, overtightening will cause the seat tube to buckle. Secondly, the crossover has not yet been set relative to the stars.

Putting it right means fulfilling two requirements:

  • The frame should be parallel to the stars.
  • There should be a gap of about 2 mm between the teeth of the largest chainring and the frame structure, but not more than 3 mm.

Now tighten the clamp to a reasonable torque and install the chain.

Attention! Remember that frontal throws are different. Therefore, when choosing a new one, consider the following points:

  • Number of teeth on each chainring.
  • Traction type: top or bottom (determines the cable entry. from the bottom of the frame or from the top).

Mountain Bike Front Shimano Derailleur Adjustment

First, use the Shimano Bike Reverse Speed ​​Setting Guide. After all, a working rear dealer is one of the requirements of the preparatory measures. They also include:

  • Checking the cable and shirts. Unwinding and sticking in the shirt is not allowed.
  • Correct installation of the gear selection unit on the frame, described in the previous paragraph.
  • Disconnected cable from derailleur.

The adjustment of the mechanism is carried out strictly in the stated sequence:

  • Adjust the lower gear limiter. Switch to the smallest sprocket in the front and the largest sprocket at the back (this will be 1-1 in the shifters). Turn screw L to bring the chain as close as possible to the inner edge of the frame. In this case, the chain should not rub against the frame structure. Take this step seriously if you don’t want the chain to fly off and get bitten between the carriage and the small star.
  • Connect the cable to the derailleur. Before attaching, screw in the thumbscrew on the shifter until it stops, and then turn it out 1-1.5 turns. At the final stage, this will facilitate readjustment.
  • Adjust the upper gear limiter. Place the chains on the largest chainring at the front and the smallest at the back (for example, on a 27-speed bike, this would be 3-9). Turn screw H to move the outer edge of the frame as close as possible to the chain. Again, the chain should not rub against the transfer.
  • Adjust the precision of the forward throw with the thumb on the shifter. Everyone does it differently. One of the ways is to sit on the bike and, with the help of a drum, select such a cable tension force, at which the chain freely passes from the 1st to the 2nd star and from the 2nd to the 3rd. The second way is to put the bike in place, switch to the middle sprocket and alternately put the 2nd and the penultimate sprocket in the back. The chain should not rub in these positions. The extreme method does not differ in accuracy, requires verification on the move and is unfair for cheap class transfers.

Note. When lubricating the cable, use only special silicone grease that does not attract dust.

Future issues

Multi-speed bikes with one front sprocket. is it worth buying

The three-star fashion ended with the arrival of 10, 11, 12-speed cassettes. The fact is that on 3×7-3×9 transmissions, three toothed gears in the front perform an important function. they overlap the gear ratios, allowing you to climb hills and screw on descents.

The number of teeth on the new multi-star cassettes has been matched to do the same with one sprocket in front. Therefore, it makes no sense to use two more asterisks. For the XC discipline, this is a significant breakthrough, since the frontal override here is the most unreliable part of the bike.

Is it possible to remove the front derailleur on a 3×9 speed bike

It can be removed if the bike is used in civilian use. Hilly terrain is freely overcome in gears 2-1, 2-2. Optimum speed on plains can be maintained at 2-6 without skewing the chain. But if you are a fan of “twisting” under 27-30 km / h, you will miss a big star.

Cycling Front Derailleur Adjustment

At some point, any bike enthusiast has to repair and adjust the front derailleurs (FPS) on bicycles. The frequency of repairs, as a rule, depends on the cheapness of the product. There are many reasons for the failure of the switch and it makes no sense to analyze them all. The principle of operation will be the same. This article describes the detailed steps for setting and adjusting switches.

Bicycle front derailleur selection rules. Its design and principles of operation.

The process of adjusting and adjusting the PPS of the bike should begin with a detailed acquaintance with the design features.

Let’s analyze the functions of all individual elements of the PPP.

  • Clamp. This part serves to mount the derailleur to the bike body.
  • Parallelogram product. Spring loaded product with hinges. In fact, this is the basis of the moving element of the PPS, with the function of fastening the frame.
  • The guide frame consists of outer and inner sides. There is a chain in her insides.
  • Bolts L and H. Serve to adjust the movement of the frame in relation to the bike body. Limit the degree of movement.
  • Bolt securing the cable. Designed for clear fixation of this element.

Let’s move on to the principle of the teaching staff. It consists in simply throwing the chain over the selected sprocket. At the same time, in the process, when the transmission is shifted from a diametrically large sprocket to a small one, the tension of the cable weakens. The spring forces the parallelogram along with the frame to move towards the body. The outside of the frame puts pressure on the chain, causing it to bounce off a specific sprocket. If it is required to transfer to a large star, the procedure is carried out in the reverse order. That is, the cable stretches and shifts the parallelogram in the opposite direction from the body. The frame, with its inner part and special hooks, casts onto a larger type of star.

Bolts L and H prevent the parallelogram from leaving the end positions.

What parameters can be used to select the best PPS modifications? To correctly answer this question, experts recommend considering three criteria:

  • fastening method;
  • type of cable supply;
  • sprocket system specifications.

As for the mounting method, there are three types.

  • Fastening is made on the basis of “Braze-on”.
  • Fixing with a clamp to the frame.
  • Directly to the bicycle carriage.

The second method is the most common and reliable. Clamp dimensions vary with frame thickness.

The cable runs to the switch in two ways:

  • through the top tube of the frame;
  • through the bottom tube of the frame.

Each of the described methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Now let’s dwell on the characteristics of the sprocket system. Consider all the parameters that you should pay attention to when selecting a PPP, so as not to buy an unnecessary thing.

  • Determine the type of system (two or three speeds).
  • Estimate the largest diameter of the sprocket. The frame depends on this criterion for the width of the bend.
  • We calculate the capacity. To do this, you need to determine the difference between the teeth of the largest star and the smallest by simple subtraction.
  • We also determine the difference between the large and medium stars. Incorrect value will result in poor switch performance.
  • Pay attention to the length of the axis. If the carriage axis does not coincide with the settings of the switch, the operation of the latter will become partial.
  • Calculate the angle between the seat tube and chainstays.

Using all of the above indicators, you can acquire a suitable type of switch.

Front derailleur setting.

Front Derailleur Installation Procedure

What steps should be taken before adjusting the front derailleur? Usually, the adjustment is preceded by disassembly of the PPS and its removal for maintenance. It is very important to set the front derailleur clearly before performing the setup procedure.

Many cyclists ask the question of how to install the PPP on a bicycle by independent actions. Let’s analyze such an algorithm point by point.

  • The ideal position is when the guide frame in the area of ​​the longitudinal axis is parallel to the front sprockets. It is better to dismantle the chain during installation.
  • Achieving the minimum distance between the frame and the large star by aligning and bending the parallelogram.
  • Determine the height according to which the clamp will fix the switch. Tighten the clamp fixing bolt slightly.
  • The position of the frame axis is adjusted by turning the switch. In this case, the frame should become parallel to the front star system.
  • We check the distance from the frame to the largest sprocket and the parallelism parameters. Tighten the clamp retainer.
  • The installation is complete. We put on the chain and go to setting

PPP setting procedure

For starters, it is advisable to position the bike so that the rear wheel is raised. A regular ironing board is ideal for this.

Setting process

We carry out clearly sequential steps of action.

  • First, the lowest speed on the switch is set. In this case, the cable cannot be fixed on the cross-over. Using the shifter, we pull the cable up to the stop with rotary movements clockwise. No need to tighten as much as possible.
  • The rear derailleur is set to the lowest speed position. As a result. the first speed on both stars.
  • We adjust the L limiter, bringing the inner side of the frame closer to the chain. The described bolt rotates counterclockwise.
  • The cable is mounted in the place of attachment to the PPP and tightened with pliers. We fix.
  • Set the gear in front to the largest sprocket, and behind _ to the smallest.
  • We pass to the limiter H. The outer side should be as close to the chain as possible. Adjust with rotary movements.
  • Now set the speed to 5 on the rear derailleur. When pedaling, we change the speed of the PPS over the entire range.
  • We set the speed 2 in front and, changing the position of the rear cross-over, we check the friction of the chain against the frame. In the presence of such a defect, adjustment is made by tensioning the cable.
  • We test the switch on a level and safe section of the road.

The mechanism for eliminating problems after the settings made

In principle, PPS regulation is a simple simple algorithm involving home maintenance of a bicycle. If you strictly adhere to the described instructions, then there should be no problems with the setup. At the same time, too frequent adjustments can damage the switch or reduce its functionality.

Consider the features and nuances of using a bike after setting the PPP. These recommendations will save time on repairs and avoid wear and tear of bike components.

  • When starting, use extremely low gears. This has to be done because of the enormous effort involved.
  • To facilitate this procedure, it is best to use the lowest gear in the transmission.
  • The speeds should be changed gradually, without jumping over several positions.
  • When overcoming the rise, the transmission is lowered in advance. You cannot do this when moving up.
  • It is not recommended to change gears when the bike is idle. In this position, the tension is low and breakage may occur when starting the movement. Therefore, the process of switching the speed is carried out in the direction of travel.
  • The chain has been thrown. We do not immediately increase the pressure. The chain must fully enter the new rhythm of movement.

If you calmly understand the problem described, then the adjustment and adjustment procedure does not look difficult and incomprehensible. The main thing is not to rush and adhere to the guidelines. No need to get upset if it didn’t work out right away. Calm down and repeat your steps again. Remember, the hardest part is fitting the front derailleur onto the frame. Nothing depends on the manufacturer of the transfer. Only your attention and patience.

Setting the front derailleur

Setting the front derailleur

Adjustment, setting the front derailleur is not difficult if you do everything carefully and consistently, but first you need to set up the rear derailleur, and then proceed to the front.

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

1) Preparation; 2) Adjustment; 3) Checking;

To set up we need:

1) Shaped screwdriver;

4) Key for 9 (in some cases, you need a 4-5 hexagon);

5) Cable and cable jacket (if yours are in poor condition);

The first stage is preparation.

First, check the cable and cable jacket (to do this, loosen the tension cable and take it out of the jacket), make sure that the cable is not unraveled anywhere, the cable jacket is not “wrinkled”. If there are no kinks and unweaving, and the cable still moves tightly in the shirt, clean it from dirt, sand and lubricate.

Next, wash and clean the front derailleur, wipe and dry well, and then lubricate all moving parts.

Twist the thumbscrew, which is located on the shift coins, almost to the very end (leave a couple of turns for adjustment). At this stage of preparation is over.

The second step is setting the front derailleur.

Position the derailleur so that, if you were looking at it from above, the derailleur frame is parallel to the chainrings. (to adjust the height and angle of the switch, loosen the clamping bolt)

In order to adjust the height, set the chain on a large sprocket, the gap between the frame and the large sprocket should be 2-3 mm. The smaller this gap, the better switching

Next, you should adjust the “blockage of the chain” (so that the chain does not fall when switching to lower and higher gears)

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If you look at the switch from above, you can see two adjusting screws H.High (high) and L.Low (low). these screws are responsible for adjusting the “chain blockage”.

Place the chain on a small sprocket in the front and a large one in the back.

Begin to rotate the L.Low screw (low) until the chain is as close to the inner plate as possible, but make sure that the chain does not hit the frame when pedaling. Next, pull the cable with pliers and tighten the cable fastening screw.

Now you need to do the same with the H.High screw. We put the chain on the big star in the front and on the small back. Turn the screw H (High) until the chain is as close to the outer plate as possible, but so that when pedaling the chain does not touch the frame.

Now you need to check how the switch works by rotating the pedals (put the bike on a stand or hang the rear wheel), step by step change gears in both directions. If it does not switch well from large to small stars, it is necessary to loosen the cable by rotating the “lamb” on the coins, clockwise, and if it does not rise well from small to large, counterclockwise.

Stage three. checking the front derailleur.

After we have tested the derailleur on weight, we need to do it under load, sit on the bike and drive through the gears. The front derailleur should work smoothly and clearly, the chain should not rub against the frame.

What problems can be when setting the front derailleur?

1) Incompatibility of the front derailleur and system.

It happens that when you replace or install a new switch, you have the wrong switch. In general, they are of three types: with an upper cable pull, with a lower cable pull and universal, and each switch is designed for a specific system and number of teeth. Therefore, when buying a switch, look what you had, and if you don’t know, take it with you for a sample.

2) It is not possible to adjust the front derailleur, the chain constantly rubs against the frame

First, check the parallelism of the switch installation, if everything is ok, check the system, if it is bent, if the sprockets are even, make a couple of pedals and look at them, the stars should not change the axis of rotation.

3) Friction of the chain on the derailleur frame when at a speed of 3-1.

Do not forget about the concept of “chain skew” in the position when the chain is located diagonally it is not recommended to ride. this can lead to chain stretching and damage to the front derailleur.

Also, when changing gears, do not forget to relieve pressure on the pedals.

If you are unable to adjust the front derailleur, do not hesitate to contact us, our bike workshop will be happy to help you.

Video. how to adjust the front derailleur:

Adjustment and adjustment of the front derailleur

I strongly recommend that you set up the rear derailleur so that everything works correctly for you before you start setting / adjusting the front derailleur. This manual will fit all brands and models of front derailleurs: Shimano, Sram, Microshift, Campagnolo and others.

Before starting the front derailleur adjustment

Before you start adjusting the front derailleur, make sure you have the following conditions:

We start by unscrewing (loosening) the bolt that holds the front derailleur cable.

Usually the bolt is unscrewed with a 5 hexagon or a 9 spanner.

Next, I recommend checking the position of the switch frame relative to the star system.

A. Check the swing angle. The switch frame must be parallel to the stars of the system.

Try to orient yourself not by the chain, but by the stars, as the chain can stand in extreme gears and the front derailleur will not be installed correctly. With red lines, I showed the central star and the inner side of the switch.

B. Check the height. The front derailleur frame should be slightly higher by 1-3mm. than the largest star in the system. To adjust, slide the frame with your hand so that it is above the 3rd star and adjust the height.

Shimano Tourney derailleur frame sticker that assists in front derailleur height adjustment. In the photo, by the way, a new bike on which the front derailleur is set much higher than necessary.

Now let’s start working with the cable and shifter on the handlebars.

A. Find the cable tension bolt on the shifter and screw it all the way into the shifter and turn it half a turn.

The cable tensioner is indicated with an arrow. In my case, this is a combo grip (brake and shifter in one body), but on a regular shifter the tensioner is the same.

B. Pull the cable by hand or use pliers and tighten it with the fixing bolt, which I wrote about in point 1. Please note that there are special grooves on the washers holding the cable. It is necessary to fix the cable in them.

We begin to set the extreme positions of the switch frame with bolts “H” and “L”.

“Low”. adjusts the extreme position of the switch on the smallest star.

We expose the extreme position of the frame using the bolt “L”

To adjust the extreme position of the bolt “L”, you must shift to the largest sprocket on the rear derailleur (corresponds to the first speed on the shifter). Next, we begin to turn the bolt “L” until there is a gap of about 1 mm between the chain (which is located on the smallest star of the system) and the switch frame (the smaller the better, the main thing is that the chain does not rub against the switch frame).

Set the center position of the front derailleur frame

It is necessary to transfer the chain to the central stars of the cassette using the rear derailleur. We switch from the first to the second speed (the chain should initially be on the 1st star), if it does not switch, then it is necessary to tighten the cable with the tension regulator (see paragraph 3.A), which is located on the shifter. We twist until the chain clearly and quickly transitions to the middle star.

We expose the extreme position of the frame using the bolt “H”

When setting the extreme “H” position, we need to switch to the smallest star on the cassette, which corresponds to the largest number on the right shifter from 6 to 11, depending on how many speeds you have there. We put the chain on the third star (the largest star on the system) and turn the screw “H”. We adjust the frame so that the chain does not fly onto the connecting rod with a clearance pedal of 1 mm will be enough.

Checking the clarity of gear shifting.

Try to change gears and see if the chain goes to all stars.

Most often, the chain does not go from the second star to the first and clings to the switch frame. This is solved by unscrewing the bolt “L” (so that the switch frame moves towards the frame) one or two turns and everything should work perfectly.

Differences between setting a road derailleur and MTB

There is no difference in front derailleur settings on mountain bikes and road bikes. The only thing is that in a road bike, the star system does not use 3 stars, but two stars, which makes the tuning faster.

If you have a dual system. You will also need to complete all the points, and in the 4th step there will be no adjustment of the central position, and the tension of the cable will be adjusted when switching to the 2nd star, where there will be an adjustment of the extreme position with the screw “H”.

Congratulations you have tuned the front derailleur, I also recommend checking if you have the correct chain length.

The chain is rubbing against the front derailleur. Adjusting the front derailleur of the bike. How to setup?

Adjustment, setting the front derailleur is not difficult if you do everything carefully and consistently, but first you need to set up the rear derailleur, and then proceed to the front.

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

To set up we need:

1) Shaped screwdriver;

4) Key for 9 (in some cases, you need a 4-5 hexagon);

5) Cable and cable jacket (if yours are in poor condition);

The first stage is preparation.

First, check the cable and cable jacket (to do this, loosen the tension cable and take it out of the jacket), make sure that the cable is not unraveled anywhere, the cable jacket is not “wrinkled”. If there are no kinks and unweaving, and the cable still moves tightly in the shirt, clean it from dirt, sand and lubricate.

Next, wash and clean the front derailleur, wipe and dry well, and then lubricate all moving parts.

Twist the thumbscrew, which is located on the shift coins, almost to the very end (leave a couple of turns for adjustment). At this stage of preparation is over.

The second step is setting the front derailleur.

Position the derailleur so that, if you were looking at it from above, the derailleur frame is parallel to the chainrings. (to adjust the height and angle of the switch, loosen the clamping bolt)

In order to adjust the height, set the chain on a large sprocket, the gap between the frame and the large sprocket should be 2-3 mm. The smaller this gap, the better switching

Next, you should adjust the “blockage of the chain” (so that the chain does not fall when switching to lower and higher gears)

If you look at the switch from above, you can see two adjusting screws H.High (high) and L.Low (low). these screws are responsible for adjusting the “chain blockage”.

Place the chain on a small sprocket in the front and a large one in the back.

Begin to rotate the L.Low screw (low) until the chain is as close to the inner plate as possible, but make sure that the chain does not hit the frame when pedaling. Next, pull the cable with pliers and tighten the cable fastening screw.

Now you need to do the same with the H.High screw. We put the chain on the big star in the front and on the small back. Turn the screw H (High) until the chain is as close to the outer plate as possible, but so that when pedaling the chain does not touch the frame.

Now you need to check how the switch works by rotating the pedals (put the bike on a stand or hang the rear wheel), step by step change gears in both directions. If it does not switch well from large to small stars, it is necessary to loosen the cable by rotating the “lamb” on the coins, clockwise, and if it does not rise well from small to large, counterclockwise.

Stage three. checking the front derailleur.

After we have tested the derailleur on weight, we need to do it under load, sit on the bike and drive through the gears. The front derailleur should work smoothly and clearly, the chain should not rub against the frame

What problems can be when setting the front derailleur?

1) Incompatibility of the front derailleur and system.

It happens that when you replace or install a new switch, you have the wrong switch. In general, they are of three types: with an upper cable pull, with a lower cable pull and universal, and each switch is designed for a specific system and number of teeth. Therefore, when buying a switch, look what you had, and if you don’t know, take it with you for a sample.

2) It is not possible to adjust the front derailleur, the chain constantly rubs against the frame

First, check the parallelism of the switch installation, if everything is ok, check the system, if it is bent, if the sprockets are even, make a couple of pedals and look at them, the stars should not change the axis of rotation.

3) Friction of the chain on the derailleur frame when at a speed of 3-1.

Do not forget about the concept of “chain skew” in the position when the chain is located diagonally it is not recommended to ride. this can lead to chain stretching and damage to the front derailleur.

Also, when changing gears, do not forget to relieve pressure on the pedals.

If you are unable to adjust the front derailleur, do not hesitate to contact us, our bike workshop will be happy to help you.

How to properly adjust the bike’s front derailleur?

It is generally not worth adjusting the front derailleur until the rear derailleur is configured. But before you tweak something, you need to thoroughly know how it works. Therefore, let’s try to understand the principle of its work.

How this switch works

This is not a Tiptronic automatic transmission and the operation of the switch is very simple. All conventions aside, it’s just a steel frame suspended from a bicycle frame that can move left and right. As it moves, it pushes the bicycle chain and makes it move from one sprocket to another. Powered by a cable that is connected to a shifter on the handlebars.

Everything seems to be simple, but not as it seems. The front derailleur has to work with the busiest top of the chain, which transmits power to the rear sprockets and is always in tension. Therefore, in the event that the derailleur is not set correctly, changing gears will be difficult even with ideal rear shift settings.

To make the whole adjustment clear and understandable, let’s imagine that we are installing it on a bare bike frame. Settings from scratch, kind of.

Installing the front derailleur to the frame

In order to determine if the bulkhead is correctly positioned on the frame, we must ensure that:

  • derailleur frame is 2 mm higher than the teeth of the largest chainring;
  • the frame should be located strictly parallel to the block of leading stars;
  • the bike’s front derailleur is washed, all dirt and dust is removed, it is greased and all adjusting screws rotate freely;
  • the chain is on the largest star in the back and on the smallest star in the front;
  • the drive cable clamping screw is loose;
  • the cable cover is loose (it is in a free, loose state);
  • front crossover angle. the center line should be parallel to the center line of the frame.

Below we have placed a picture in which we tried to demonstrate the initial positions of the entire structure before setting up.

A little tip. the lower the front derailleur is lowered, the clearer it will work.

And here a question arises, the solution of which we cannot influence without replacing the re-throw. If the radius of the star is greater than that for which the switch is designed, then the rear of the frame will catch the teeth of the large star. But sometimes this can be cured by fine adjustments, which we will talk about later. In the meantime, everything is ready and we are waiting for the setting of the front derailleur.

Tuning method

Step one

By turning screw 1, we achieve that the frame is at a minimum distance from the chain from the side of the carriage. Make sure that the chain does not touch the frame.

Step two

Fasten the gearshift cable. Pulling it slightly, fix it with a screw or fastening nut. If there is a spacer washer with a groove, put the cable into it and clamp it.

Step three

We transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the back and to the largest in the front. By turning the screw 2, we achieve the minimum distance between the chain and the frame, but without contact.

Step four

We check the operation of the switch under load. If the chain moves freely along all the stars and does not touch the frame while driving, we can consider the setup complete. Congratulations.

But you will never be able to adjust so that the chain does not rub against the frame at the front highest and rear lowest and vice versa. It is necessary to strive for this, but not everyone succeeds. Therefore, if you want to achieve academic heights in setting up the front changeover, then only practice will help in this.

Sometimes the fault of the frame grinding against the chain can be increased wear of the crossover. It’s easy to check. if the frame has play, it is better to change the speed switch to a new one. Its repair is not worth the time you spend, and a new one is not that expensive, and besides, there will be a guarantee that it will last for more than one season.

But in any case, no matter how carefully you set up the front shifter, it will not save you from the rattle of the chain on the frame if you are not shifting gears correctly. Without going into subtleties, remember the most important thing. you do not need to switch speeds while loading the pedals. Those. stop pedaling for a second, switch the speed and smoothly (without excessive pressure) make a few pedals. When you do not yet realize that the chain has moved to the correct sprocket, you can continue with normal pedaling. over, the cheaper the system on your bike, the stricter it is to follow this rule.

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In general, the settings described above are sufficient for comfortable and problem-free operation of the front gearshift.

How to set up a Shimano front derailleur on a mountain bike

Statistics confirm that the front “shifter” requires less maintenance than the rear. Simplicity of design is also on the “front” side. Why, then, there are a lot of questions when installing and adjusting this unit. What is the capriciousness of the front crossover? And in the end, how to do the work so that the result does not cause discontent and criticism.

The scheme of the transfer

Before adjusting the front derailleur on your bike, we recommend that you study its design. With this knowledge, it is much easier for the performer to navigate the settings and understand the purpose of each of them.

The focus is only on Shimano products as the most popular. In fact, there are practically no differences between Japanese products and American SRAM. As well as between the cheap Tourney and the expensive Deore. over, if you delve into the principle of operation and the essence of the setting, then it will not matter to you which bike is in front of you: a budget Stealth with a front shifter Shimano Altus or an expensive Cube with a super-light Deore XT.

We will understand the device by the photo of the Alivio series switch:

  • Inner and outer part of the guide frame. There is a chain between them. The function of the frame configuration is to move the chain from one chainring to another.
  • A spring-loaded parallelogram to which a frame is attached. Moves when pulling / loosening the cable, dragging the frame structure with it.
  • Cable fixing bolt. By means of a cable, the shifter moves the parallelogram.
  • End position adjusting bolts (L and H). With their help, the border positions of the frame are adjusted so that the chain does not jump off the first and third stars.
  • Clamp. Secures the crossover to the center tube (into which the seatpost fits).

Diagnostics of the current state

The chain throwing accuracy depends not only on the set adjustments. The role is also played by the position of the crossover relative to the stars and the deviation of the frame geometry from the nominal shape. It also happens that the cable simply broke and the switch does not work corny. That is why we placed the diagnostic stage before the description of the complete regulation procedure.

Why do not front gears switch when changing from 1st to 2nd or from 2nd to 3rd

The reason the chain does not roll over to the large front sprockets without additional tension is due to the stretched cable. In this situation, there is no need to configure from scratch. It is enough to twist the shifting lever and everything will fall into place.

Note. Additional pull is pulling the cable in the current mode using the trigger on the shifter. For example, you switch the chain from the first chainring to the second by clicking the knob to the number “2”. The chain rubs against the frame, but does not go over to the adjacent gear wheel. Then you pull up the cable, slightly pushing the handle towards the inclusion of third gear, but not including it, and the chain freely goes to the star

Unscrew the thumbscrew 1 turn and try shifting in place by lifting the rear wheel and pedaling. If the chain still does not move freely onto the large sprockets, then spin the drum half a turn and try using the re-roll in place again. Repeat the ½ turn. check series until shifts in both directions are accurate.

Note. The lamb’s stroke is limited to 5. 6 turns. If this margin is not enough, then tighten the cable on the switch itself by unscrewing the cable securing bolt. Before clamping, turn the drum on the shifter until it stops, and then release it 1 turn. Repeat the thumbscrew adjustment procedure again.

Having achieved a clear transfer in place, ride and test the operation of the front speed block. Under load, the setting may not seem so ideal, so you have to twist the drum in one direction or another within ½ a turn and immediately check the new position while driving.

Why the chain does not move to the front large sprocket

If the chain goes from the 1st sprocket to the 2nd chain without hindrance, but does not switch from the 2nd to the 3rd, then the matter is in the wrong boundary position of the front crossover. You can knock it down during the repair process:

  • Incorrectly selected carriage cartridge: the length of the shaft does not correspond to the passport documentation for the bicycle.
  • The limiter for moving the frame along a large star (bolt H) is incorrectly set.

Why is the front derailleur rubbing against the chain

To understand what is the matter, one such symptom is not enough. Specify which gear it is in:

  • Hits on the middle star. A skewed gear is used or the cable is under / too tight.
  • It only clings to the first asterisk. The frame limit (bolt L) is incorrectly set, the chain is heavily skewed or the cable is overtightened.
  • Rubbing on the biggest star. The border for large gears (bolt H) is poorly adjusted, the chain is skewed or the cable is not tight.

Note. The chain can touch the frame in any gear, if the edges of the frame are not parallel to the stars.

Front bulkhead replacement technology

If the front derailleur is not correctly positioned on the bike frame, it will not be able to adjust. Since the conversation about the installation methodology is brewing, it is appropriate to discuss the essence of dismantling activities.

How to remove

Disconnecting the chain is indispensable here. We have already studied this procedure in detail in the material on how to change the chain on a bicycle with shifting gears. If there is no lock, then squeeze will be required. But in the future, we advise you not to give up such a convenient little thing as a chain lock.

It is advisable to wash the removed chain. It is important to choose the means, which we have mentioned more than once in the corresponding publication. Although the result of research on technology, how and how to clean a bicycle chain at home. impressed. We came to the conclusion that it is most convenient to do this with a high-pressure jet, and right on the bike.

  • Disconnect the cable from it.
  • Disconnect the frame clamp.

How to install

When securing the derailer on the frame, do not rush to tighten the clamp of its fastening. First, in the case of a thin walled butted frame, overtightening will cause the seat tube to buckle. Secondly, the crossover has not yet been set relative to the stars.

Putting it right means fulfilling two requirements:

  • The frame should be parallel to the stars.
  • There should be a gap of about 2 mm between the teeth of the largest chainring and the frame structure, but not more than 3 mm.

Now tighten the clamp to a reasonable torque and install the chain.

Attention! Remember that frontal throws are different. Therefore, when choosing a new one, consider the following points:

  • Number of teeth on each chainring.
  • Traction type: top or bottom (determines the cable entry. from the bottom of the frame or from the top).

Mountain Bike Front Shimano Derailleur Adjustment

First, use the Shimano Bike Reverse Speed ​​Setting Guide. After all, a working rear dealer is one of the requirements of the preparatory measures. They also include:

  • Checking the cable and shirts. Unwinding and sticking in the shirt is not allowed.
  • Correct installation of the gear selection unit on the frame, described in the previous paragraph.
  • Disconnected cable from derailleur.

The adjustment of the mechanism is carried out strictly in the stated sequence:

  • Adjust the lower gear limiter. Switch to the smallest sprocket in the front and the largest sprocket at the back (this will be 1-1 in the shifters). Turn screw L to bring the chain as close as possible to the inner edge of the frame. In this case, the chain should not rub against the frame structure. Take this step seriously if you don’t want the chain to fly off and get bitten between the carriage and the small star.
  • Connect the cable to the derailleur. Before attaching, screw in the thumbscrew on the shifter until it stops, and then turn it out 1-1.5 turns. At the final stage, this will facilitate readjustment.
  • Adjust the upper gear limiter. Place the chains on the largest chainring at the front and the smallest at the back (for example, on a 27-speed bike, this would be 3-9). Turn screw H to move the outer edge of the frame as close as possible to the chain. Again, the chain should not rub against the transfer.
  • Adjust the precision of the forward throw with the thumb on the shifter. Everyone does it differently. One of the ways is to sit on the bike and, with the help of a drum, select such a cable tension force, at which the chain freely passes from the 1st to the 2nd star and from the 2nd to the 3rd. The second way is to put the bike in place, switch to the middle sprocket and alternately put the 2nd and the penultimate sprocket in the back. The chain should not rub in these positions. The extreme method does not differ in accuracy, requires verification on the move and is unfair for cheap class transfers.

Note. When lubricating the cable, use only special silicone grease that does not attract dust.

Future issues

Multi-speed bikes with one front sprocket. is it worth buying

The three-star fashion ended with the arrival of 10, 11, 12-speed cassettes. The fact is that on 3×7-3×9 transmissions, three toothed gears in the front perform an important function. they overlap the gear ratios, allowing you to climb hills and screw on descents.

The number of teeth on the new multi-star cassettes has been matched to do the same with one sprocket in front. Therefore, it makes no sense to use two more asterisks. For the XC discipline, this is a significant breakthrough, since the frontal override here is the most unreliable part of the bike.

Is it possible to remove the front derailleur on a 3×9 speed bike

It can be removed if the bike is used in civilian use. Hilly terrain is freely overcome in gears 2-1, 2-2. Optimum speed on plains can be maintained at 2-6 without skewing the chain. But if you are a fan of “twisting” under 27-30 km / h, you will miss a big star.

It is generally not worth adjusting the front derailleur until the rear derailleur is configured. But before you tweak something, you need to thoroughly know how it works. Therefore, let’s try to understand the principle of its work.

How this switch works

This is not a Tiptronic automatic transmission and the operation of the switch is very simple. All conventions aside, it’s just a steel frame suspended from a bicycle frame that can move left and right. As it moves, it pushes the bicycle chain and makes it move from one sprocket to another. Powered by a cable that is connected to a shifter on the handlebars.

Everything seems to be simple, but not as it seems. The front derailleur has to work with the busiest top of the chain, which transmits power to the rear sprockets and is always in tension. Therefore, in the event that the derailleur is not set correctly, changing gears will be difficult even with ideal rear shift settings.

To make the whole adjustment clear and understandable, let’s imagine that we are installing it on a bare bike frame. Settings from scratch, kind of.

Installing the front derailleur to the frame

In order to determine if the bulkhead is correctly positioned on the frame, we must ensure that:

  • derailleur frame is 2 mm higher than the teeth of the largest chainring;
  • the frame should be located strictly parallel to the block of leading stars;
  • the bike’s front derailleur is washed, all dirt and dust is removed, it is greased and all adjusting screws rotate freely;
  • the chain is on the largest star in the back and on the smallest star in the front;
  • the drive cable clamping screw is loose;
  • the cable cover is loose (it is in a free, loose state);
  • front crossover angle. the center line should be parallel to the center line of the frame.

Below we have placed a picture in which we tried to demonstrate the initial positions of the entire structure before setting up.

A little tip. the lower the front derailleur is lowered, the clearer it will work.

And here a question arises, the solution of which we cannot influence without replacing the re-throw. If the radius of the star is greater than that for which the switch is designed, then the rear of the frame will catch the teeth of the large star. But sometimes this can be cured by fine adjustments, which we will talk about later. In the meantime, everything is ready and we are waiting for the setting of the front derailleur.

Tuning method

Step one

By turning screw 1, we achieve that the frame is at a minimum distance from the chain from the side of the carriage. Make sure that the chain does not touch the frame.

Step two

Fasten the gearshift cable. Pulling it slightly, fix it with a screw or fastening nut. If there is a spacer washer with a groove, put the cable into it and clamp it.

Step three

We transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the back and to the largest in the front. By turning the screw 2, we achieve the minimum distance between the chain and the frame, but without contact.

Step four

We check the operation of the switch under load. If the chain moves freely along all the stars and does not touch the frame while driving, we can consider the setup complete. Congratulations.

But you will never be able to adjust so that the chain does not rub against the frame at the front highest and rear lowest and vice versa. It is necessary to strive for this, but not everyone succeeds. Therefore, if you want to achieve academic heights in setting up the front changeover, then only practice will help in this.

Sometimes the fault of the frame grinding against the chain can be increased wear of the crossover. It’s easy to check. if the frame has play, it is better to change the speed switch to a new one. Its repair is not worth the time you spend, and a new one is not that expensive, and besides, there will be a guarantee that it will last for more than one season.

But in any case, no matter how carefully you set up the front shifter, it will not save you from the rattle of the chain on the frame if you are not shifting gears correctly. Without going into subtleties, remember the most important thing. you do not need to switch speeds while loading the pedals. Those. stop pedaling for a second, switch the speed and smoothly (without excessive pressure) make a few pedals. When you do not yet realize that the chain has moved to the correct sprocket, you can continue with normal pedaling. over, the cheaper the system on your bike, the stricter it is to follow this rule.

In general, the settings described above are sufficient for comfortable and problem-free operation of the front gearshift.

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