Bicycle Foot Brake Adjustment

How to set up rim brakes on a bicycle

The braking system is one of the most important technical components of a bicycle. The safety of both the cyclist and other road users directly depends on its condition. Good brakes are essential in any situation, from riding in parks to strong cycling.

In the modern classical sense, a bicycle brake is a pressure mechanism that acts on the wheel rim. There are actually several types of brakes, however v-brake (rim) is the most common option on bicycles of various classes.

Braking system characteristics

The following terms are used to qualitatively describe the operation of rim brakes:

  • impact force;
  • efficiency;
  • wear resistance;
  • modulation;
  • service requirements;
  • comparative features.

Force of impact, or braking, is a parameter that shows how much the brake can clamp the rim so that the bike cannot be moved. Maximum effort is required only to stop completely and lock in place. On the road, the effort is not fully used to adjust the speed. The range of action on the wheel rim by pressing the handle is called modulation, or accuracy, of the brakes.

An active cyclist uses his transport not only in dry and cloudless weather. Rain, mud, sand. everyone who rolls out their bike on long trips will have to face this. The effectiveness of brakes allows you to describe their behavior in a wide variety of conditions.

Durability is a measure of durability, taking into account the prescriptions for using the bicycle as a whole. Timely maintenance can increase the service life of the braking system. Service Requirements describe how to properly install and adjust the mechanism, how often to do this, and guidance on how to replace parts.

Varieties of rim brakes

Rim brakes are divided into several types:

  • tick-borne;
  • cantilevers;
  • V-brake (vector mechanical);
  • hydraulically driven.

Caliper brakes. previously popular modifications, are now rare on the market. They are a classic model of rim brakes that are attached to the fork or stays of the bicycle frame. Design features and operating principle:

  • Consist of a handle, a drive cable, two movable bows and brake pads.
  • The handle is attached to the handlebars of the bicycle, a cable is pulled from it and fixed on the clamping side of the arches. The body itself is attached strictly above the wheel, pads are screwed to the lower arches.
  • Through the cable, the force is directly transmitted to the clamping part of the arcs, due to which they are compressed, and the pads are in contact with the rim.
  • Responsible for the release is an elastic metal insert or spring built between the levers.

The levers have a single axis of rotation and move towards each other like pliers pincers. Hence the name. tick-borne. Advantages. ease of installation, simple setup. Cons. weak braking force, low modulation, high abrasion of the pads, require frequent debugging. Fits on road racing bikes and optionally as a front rim brake on road models.

Cantilevers belong to the second type of disappearing brakes. The principle of their operation is to extend the levers under the action of a stretched leash. Cantilever brake working principle:

  • Through the main cable, the force is transmitted to the jumper.
  • The cable pulls the jumper up, the leash attached to it is pulled.
  • The leash connects both levers, which are rigidly attached to the frame.
  • Due to the convergence of the levers, the pads approach the rim.

The cantilevers are dirt resistant, will not bump the tire and are easy to install. Significant disadvantages include:

  • decrease in braking force as the leash is pulled;
  • you need to create a high effort to stop the bike completely;
  • difficulty of adjustment.

To justify the latter, it is worth noting that the position of the pads can be adjusted within wide limits.

V-brake is a common type of rim brake on high-speed bicycles. Compared to cantilevers, it has a higher precision and longer shoe longevity. They are also easy to remove and repair yourself.

The vectors are partially similar in design to cantilevers: the front brake levers are bolted to the fork, the rear brake levers are attached to the upper stays. The legs are tied together with a pulling cable. The drive cable is brought to one side, but due to the straight form of the “tie” forces are equally transmitted to both levers.

Hydraulic bicycle rim brakes are a more advanced mechanical model. The drive system consists of a control cylinder, a hydraulic line and power cylinders. The forces from the handle are transmitted to the master cylinder, which, through the oil, acts on the power cylinders. Those, in turn, shift the pads towards each other.

Advantages. high compression force and efficiency, excellent modulation. Disadvantages. deterioration of performance when the hydraulic line is clogged, difficult repairs. Used a similar type of brakes for freeride and trial.

Rim-type brakes have low brake pad travel, which means they wear less during operation. A significant disadvantage of this approach is the inability to be used on wheels even with minor rim curvatures. Sensitive brakes will rub against the wheel on the fly, causing reduced speed and increased pad wear.

How to install and configure V-brake yourself

Installing the brake from scratch:

  • Attach the levers to the bike frame.
  • Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
  • Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
  • Connect the cable to the levers and put the spring.

After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

The accuracy of the mechanism largely depends on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to squeezing the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On a tight cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

  • Reset Springs.
  • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
  • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position the distance from the handle to the handlebars corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

If damage was noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of hard material are placed strictly parallel to the wheel rotation surface.

If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.

How to adjust the brakes on a bike

Without a doubt, brakes are one of the most important components on a bike. They must be kept in good condition. they must always be clean and correctly adjusted.

The brakes need to respond quickly and efficiently to all your commands. To achieve this goal, they are designed with the smallest possible gaps. But over time, as they wear, play appears in them, which leads to an increase in reaction time, a decrease in braking efficiency and a deterioration in bike handling.

What needs to be configured?

  • Brake Levers: Over time, the levers can become dirty and also move from their seat on the handlebars.
  • Brake pads: Brake pads will gradually wear out as they are used, which can lead to longer brake response times and the required pressure on the brake levers. In addition, the pads may move out of place.
  • Brakes: Brakes include the brake levers, brake shoes (hold the brake pads in place) and the pads themselves. Rough driving, falls and accidents can cause these mechanisms to move out of position. They should be checked regularly to ensure that all brake components are working correctly and in place. Most brake problems are actually the result of wheel damage or wheel reshaping. If you have constant problems with the brakes, then you should carry out a full maintenance of the bike, including checking the condition of the wheels.
  • Brake cables and jackets: Over time, cables can wear out, rust and stretch. The resulting additional slack in the system can cause the brake pads to move slightly away from the rim. Flexible shirts that protect the cables can also tear, bend and fray.

How often to check the brakes?

Perform a full brake check before every ride. Make sure the brake components are in good condition and in place.

Also, have your brakes checked and serviced regularly by an experienced mechanic in order to spot problems in time that you did not notice or could not fix due to lack of experience. If you rarely ride a bike, the brakes should be adjusted approximately every six months. Have your bike serviced more often if you use it more or more frequently.

Brake Adjustment Procedure.

  • Adjusting the brake levers: Just push them all the way down. There should be approximately one inch gap between the inner edge of each lever and the handlebars. Check that each brake lever is securely held in place. it does not move out of place when pressed from all sides. When pressed, the brake levers should move smoothly: without jerking or squeaking.
  • Adjusting the brake pads: Inspect pads for cracks, significant wear or surface hardening. Pads with a hardened surface can be repaired using the procedure below. Pads with cracks or significant wear cannot be repaired. they must be replaced. The wear rate can be estimated by the number of cracks. Unevenly worn pads need to be sanded or replaced.
  • Checking the position of the brakes: Visually inspect the front and rear braking systems. Make sure the brakes are symmetrical around the wheel and the brake pads are equidistant from both surfaces of the rim. Each block must:
  • When pressing the brake levers, make full contact with the rim, do not touch the tire above and do not hang below the rim.
  • When viewed from above, the front edge of the shoes should be slightly closer to the rim than the rear, so that it starts to contact the surface of the rim a little earlier than the rear edge of the shoes.
  • Adjusting the brake cables: When adjusting the brakes or regularly maintaining your bike, always check the brake cables for any visible signs of abrasion, rust or wear. The cable must pass freely through all shirts and guides that secure it to the bike.
  • Common brake breakdowns and solutions.

    During every maintenance of the bicycle brake system, it is necessary to check the correct position of the brake components and their functionality. Full brake adjustment is outside the scope of this article and is not covered here.

    • Malfunctioning brake levers In general, brake levers can malfunction for three reasons:
    • Brakes are not working at full capacity
    • Levers are damaged or dirty
    • Brake pads not close enough to the rims

    Most modern brakes have a so-called quick-release mechanism that allows you to loosen the cables without knocking down the brake system settings. As a rule, loosening the cables is required in order to spread the brake levers and remove the wheel. Some of these quick-release mechanisms are located on the brakes themselves, others are located on the brake levers or elsewhere along the entire length of the cable. If you find too much play in the braking system, check these quick release mechanisms first to make sure they are not engaged. If everything is in order with the quick-release mechanisms, but the brake levers work poorly or do not work at all, then the problem may be in the levers themselves. they need to be cleaned or replaced. If the first two solutions did not fix the problem, then check how close the brake pads are to the rims so that they can generate sufficient braking force. But before you start adjusting the brakes, check the degree of brake pad wear. Worn brake pads should simply be replaced. If they are okay, try turning the cable adjustment knob counterclockwise, which is located where the cable enters the brake lever (or caliper on a road bike), until you reach the required distance between the shoe and the rim (standard distance 1/8 inches). If the knob of the cable adjustment, also known as the nipple, is twisted to the limit, but the brake pads are not in the correct position, then you better take your bike to an experienced bike mechanic to make a more complete brake adjustment. Whenever you do any maintenance on your bike, ask a mechanic to check the rims, which are an integral part of the bike’s braking system. Damaged or improperly adjusted rims or wheels can cause or contribute to brake problems.

  • Improper installation of brakes or brake pads Improper installation of brakes can result in reduced braking performance or squeaking. Typically, the brakes and brake pads are held in place using common bolts, washers and retaining nuts. In most cases, reinstallation is limited to loosening the required nut or bolt and locking the brake in the correct position by tightening the locking bolt. Since each brake has its own design, we do not provide a detailed description of the necessary adjustments. Take some time to familiarize yourself with the mechanisms of your brakes so that you can make basic adjustments if necessary.
  • Insufficient Frictional Force If the brakes do not provide sufficient braking force after checking the levers and mechanisms, then most likely the braking system will need professional adjustment. But before you send your bike to a workshop for repair, check:
  • Are the rims dirty: Dirty rims will reduce braking performance, even if the brakes themselves are okay. As a solution to the problem, check the rims and clean them if necessary.
  • Worn out or “hardened” pads: Over time, dirt on the rims will cause brake pads to become stiff and slippery, leading to reduced performance. Therefore, check the surface of the brake pads whenever you notice a decrease in braking performance or a squeak. Grind or hardened brake pad surfaces should be replaced or cleaned as described below.
  • Brake cleaning procedure.

    The brakes should be cleaned whenever you notice reduced braking performance or dirt. It is especially important to keep the brake pads clean.

    • Brake pads: Wipe off dirt from the brake pads using a cloth dampened with alcohol or sandpaper (abrasive sponge) for metal surfaces. Also carefully remove any foreign objects that have stuck into the pads. The surface of the brake pad must be soft enough to scratch with your nails.
    • Brake cables: Wipe and lubricate the brake cables every few months, or when visible surfaces show signs of dirt or rust. Apply a small amount of bike lubricant near the cable guide and jackets. When doing this, be extremely careful that even a drop of grease does not fall on the brake pads or rims.
    • Brake levers and their pivots: All pivot points of the brake system should be wiped and lubricated with oil while moving the parts forwards and backwards. The more often you lubricate, the better.

    How to adjust disc brakes on a bicycle: techniques for hydraulics and mechanics

    Normally, the disc brake stops the wheel as quickly as possible, allowing the force to be dosed on the verge of blocking the rotor. Deviations appear after replacing the cable, pads and overhaul. However, the settings are violated during long-term use, as well as after removing the wheel, for example, to seal the bicycle camera at home. How to avoid the famous rotor shuffling, how to eliminate braking, and, in the end, how to restore the factory braking character. these and other questions are answered by the editorial staff of Autobann magazine.

    READ  How to attach a patch to a bicycle camera

    Before adjusting: preparing for tuning

    The decision to adjust disc brakes on a mountain or road bike will only be successful if brake diagnostics are included. By the way, the diagnostic measures for hydraulics and mechanics will be different. How hydraulic brakes on a bicycle differ from mechanical ones. we already had a conversation.

    In short, in the hydraulic circuit, both pads push the fluid, acting on the caliper pistons, which results in clear modulation and easy handle travel. And in mechanics, only one friction lining is movable. It is brought to the disc by pulling the cable with the brake lever.

    However, whatever the brake drive is, it is worth checking:

    • Rotor for deformation. For 100% confidence in the flatness of the disc, it is better to unscrew it and put it on a flat surface. A rough estimate can be made while on the bike by rotating the wheel and estimating the distance to both pads through the slot in the caliper. Friction linings must be equidistant from the disc in any position.
    • Brake pad wear and integrity. Remove the pads by removing the cotter pin and assess the residual thickness of the friction material. The surface in contact with the disc must be free of pits and dents.
    • Cleanliness of pads and rotor. The presence of oil traces and accumulations of dirt on their working surfaces is not allowed. To clean them, you can use fine sandpaper (for example, “zero”) and rags soaked in any cleaner (acetone, ammonia.).
    • Wheel hub location in frame / fork dropouts. The bushing should fit freely into the seat and abut against the counter surface of the frame or fork. Distortions in the installation cannot be avoided, but they should be minimal, practically invisible. Micron skewing is immediately audible on the brakes in the form of rotor shuffling. This is why disc brake adjustments are required after re-mounting the wheel.

    It will not be superfluous to look at the state of the drive. With cable disc brakes, check the cable integrity. The end should not be unwoven, and the service life should not exceed 3 years. When replacing the cable, change the shirts. It is not necessary to lubricate it, but if you decide, then do it only with the help of a special lubricant that does not attract dust.

    Nothing should leak on the hydraulics. Weaknesses are connections:

    • Master cylinder. hydraulic line.
    • Brake Lever. Master Cylinder.
    • Brake caliper hose.M

    These joints received a weak status due to the use of cuffs, which dry out over time and leak.

    How to adjust disc mechanical brakes on a mountain bike

    Mechanics are gradually becoming history. Now it can still be seen in the budget line of Russian Stels, Forward and Stern. Considering the price, there is no need to talk about the belonging of brake system parts to such global brands as Shimano and Sram. Usually this is some kind of noname kit that has a minimum of settings.

    Another nail in the list of disadvantages of mechanical disc brakes is that they need adjustment more often. This is because one of the pads is motionless. As it is erased, the distance between it and the disc automatically increases. Meanwhile, fluctuations in the values ​​of this clearance should be insignificant, otherwise the friction linings will wear unevenly, the quality of deceleration suffers.

    Checking the readiness of the system for adjustment

    So, first you need to make sure that:

    • The adapter to which the caliper is attached is well secured to the frame or fork (bolts are tight).
    • The already tested rotor is securely fixed with screws on the hub.
    • The wheel is installed on the bike, the eccentric / nuts are tightened.
    • The lamb for adjusting the cable tension is unscrewed no more than 1.5 turns (located next to the handle or caliper).
    • The cable is fixed on the movable arm of the machine.

    Working with a caliper

    Adjusting mechanical disc brakes on a mountain bike is a two-step process: adjusting the caliper and adjusting the brake lever. To adjust the caliper means to set the pads symmetrically relative to the disc, while the gaps should be minimal.

    When adjusting the caliper, it is important to follow the sequence of actions:

    • Center the clipper. Loosen the bolts securing the caliper to the adapter and, moving the caliper, find its position in which the pads will be equidistant from the disc and completely parallel to it. After centering the machine, pull it to the adapter, observing the rule of uniform tightening: turn one bolt ¼ turn, then the other also ¼, and repeat the described procedure again with the first and second fasteners.
    • Align the clearance between the fixed pad and the disc. Any grade of mechanical disc brake caliper has a bolt or adjusting wheel to move the fixed pad closer / away from the disc. Here the task is to use this adjustment in order to bring the block as close to the rotor as possible, while maintaining the clearance. The easiest way to do this is to move the friction pad close to the disc, but so that it does not bend it, and loosen the bolt a little to get a small gap.
    • Adjust the clearance between the moving shoe and the rotor. On serious kits, a special adjustment is provided for this. a bolt that moves the block regardless of the tension of the cable. On cheap bikes, this setting is combined with the cable tension. The task is to set the same gap as between the fixed friction lining and the disc.

    Note. Caliper centering can be skipped if this operation was performed earlier and the wheel was not removed.

    Adjusting the brake lever travel

    This adjustment allows you to adjust the position of the handle when the brake engages. There are no specific recommendations on this matter. Someone is more comfortable for the bike to brake at the slightest pressure on the handle, someone more like the presence of a small idle and a dead grip in the middle of the lever path.

    This adjustment is carried out using a screw located in the brake lever housing. The final adjustment of the severity of the brake seizure is made by the cable tension thumbscrew.

    Particular questions on mechanics. How to release the disc brake on a bicycle

    It is enough to screw in the cable tension drum a certain number of turns. If its stroke is not enough, unscrew the nut securing the cable to the caliper and loosen its tension. Option “so-so”. unscrew the handle adjustment bolt.

    Don’t forget about the fixed shoe. Moving away the movable friction lining with a cable, move the static one, so that symmetry with respect to the rotor is maintained.

    How to pull

    Proceed in the reverse order of loosening the cable and you will get the desired result.

    How to make the brakes brake well

    Use good quality pads and center the caliper against the rotor in a timely manner so that the disc bends as little as possible.

    Adjusting hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle with your own hands

    The hydraulics are called self-adjusting. Where this status came from is unclear. The centering of the pads relative to the disc can also get lost here. And the shuffling of the rotor itself is one of the first complaints from owners of even new bikes.

    In general, setting up hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle is easier than using cable brakes. But drawing a parallel between adjusting the brake mechanism and cleaning the chain, we can say that working with the brakes is still more difficult than washing the chain at home.

    The main goal is the same: to center the caliper, check if the pads are equidistant from the disc, adjust the handle stroke, if its design allows it. It is necessary to carry out the adjustment step by step:

    • Loosen the bolts securing the caliper to the adapter.
    • Clamp the brake lever to the stop and fix it in this position using the available means (wire, electrical tape.).
    • Check the position of the rotor. It should be located exactly in the center of the caliper slot. If the disc is bent, then the pads are not equidistant from it. The required position of the friction linings and the rotor can be achieved by bending the disc in the opposite direction from the observed bending. Fluid will flow from one piston to the other and the pads will align.
    • Tighten the caliper mounting bolts alternately. Use the 1/4 turn tightening technique found in the Mechanics Set-up Technique.
    • Adjust the position of the handle using the screw on its body.

    How to adjust disc brakes on a bicycle. How to set up disc brakes on a bicycle

    Running a bike is one thing, but fixing it is another. Even skilled and experienced cyclists are faced with the problem of improper / defective disc brake operation. You can deal with this phenomenon if you clearly know the principle of operation and the structure of the system. And you should start with these main points.

    Device and principle of operation

    The difference between the principles of operation of disc and mechanical brakes is negligible. But, there are still differences in their device. Let’s consider step by step, starting with the mechanical type, which is arranged as follows:

    • Brake handle. It is fixed on the steering wheel, for ease of squeezing, with a clamp. It is designed to transfer force to the brake pads, bringing them into action.
    • Cable adjuster with lock nut. The first element serves as a regulating device to limit the cable tension. The second is to fix the regulator itself.
    • Brake lever adjuster designed to determine a comfortable distance to the handlebars.
    • Cable jacket. protecting it from dirt, mechanical damage.
    • To fix the cable, a clamp in the form of a bolt is used, with the possibility of adjustment
    • The mechanism that allows the cable to be set in motion when pressed is called a caliper. Its action is not possible without brake pads. rubber or metal fragments that ensure a tight clamping of the disc.
    • Directly disc (rotor). It locks onto the wheel hub.

    Figures 1 and 2 show schematically all of the above details.

    Figure: Bicycle brakes

    Figure: appearance of the brake lever with main elements

    The main differences between hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes

    The main difference between hydraulic and mechanical types is the principle of transferring the force exerted on the handle to activate them. So, if a cable serves as a conductor of the pressure force in mechanics, then in hydraulics it is a liquid. Both brake and mineral oil (depending on the manufacturer) can be used as a fluid. Both of them are good in their own way, and their effect differs from each other to a small extent. The photo offers a schematic representation of a hydraulic disc brake device.

    Photo: the main elements of the hydraulic system of disc brakes

    Diagnostics of the brake system

    As with the human body, which functions as a whole, before fixing brake problems on a bicycle, diagnostics should be performed to determine the extent of brake damage. After all, if the block is erased, from which the effect on the disc becomes much worse, and there is no stopping effect (due), then only it needs to be replaced, and not the system as a whole. So, below are some of the diagnostic steps you need to take to identify the causes of your bike’s “illness”:

    • Deformation of the rotor can be one of the reasons for the malfunctioning of the brake system. Therefore, removing it is the primary task. When you unscrew the clips and remove the rotor, it must be placed on a flat surface, such as a mirror. Carefully inspect how tightly and evenly the rotor adheres to it, and if you notice irregularities, then they need to be corrected.
    • We dismantle the brake pads to carry out a visual inspection for damage. This action is as follows: find the extension on the caliper, and then turn the pads until they are removed. It is not difficult to visually determine the wear on their surface. So, the figure shows that the block on the right is already completely worn out and requires immediate replacement.
    • Figure: Determining Pad Wear
    • The next “candidates for overhaul” are cables and shirts. This item is suitable for those modes of transport where mechanics are used. It is necessary to check the cable for fiber breaks, deformations, and so on. As for the shirts, remember that their function is to protect the cable from negative factors (accumulation of dust, moisture). Therefore, cracks or breaks simply should not be present here. Both elements need to be lubricated before installation / replacement.
    • For hydraulics, there is also a test that is exclusively inherent in this type of system. the condition of the hydraulic line for leaks. It is important to understand that in the presence of leaks in the hydraulics, the proper pressure may not be exerted on the pads, which automatically disables the system. Damage to the hydraulic lines is quite likely, which are revealed during visual inspection. over, it does not matter at all whether this damage is strong, or insignificant. It is also necessary to check the junction of the brake line, caliper and master cylinder. A rod extends from the brake lever to the piston. another potential place from which fluid can be vented in case of mechanical damage (on the cuffs). After removing the brake pads, it is necessary to check for leaks on the caliper itself.
    • The rotator, like the pads themselves, can get dirty while using the bike. Both oil and dust accumulate here, forming solid layers that interfere with the operation of the system. It is wrong to adjust the brakes without cleaning the rotor and pads from dirt. Cleaning can be done with fine-grained sandpaper. But for this you need to dismantle both parts so that cleaning is done as efficiently as possible.
    • The final is wheel adjustment. It should not be skewed to the side in any way. You can check this simply by placing the bike on a flat surface and performing a visual inspection. If the wheel is tilted to the side, it must be aligned (loosen the eccentric, then adjust the wheel).

    A set of such activities is required. All this can be done quickly enough if you have all the necessary tools (screwdriver, wrenches). Next, we go directly to the processes of adjusting and installing the brakes.

    Setting up mechanical disc brakes on a bicycle

    In cases where one of the elements of the brake system fails, which makes it necessary to replace it, adjustments should be made. There are several sequential steps that will help you cope with this task efficiently and quickly:

    • We check all fixing elements (bolts). If one or more of them are not tightly screwed in, then they lose their functional purpose.
    • We unscrew (not completely, but only in order to loosen the fixation) the lock nut, after which we tighten the cable tension adjuster on the handlebar. We bring the locknut to the previous position (fix). With the adjustment located on the caliper, we perform the same actions. Pull the cable by hand after loosening the lock. When the required tension is reached, screw the retainer back.
    • Dismantle the car.
    • As you know, one of the pads is motionless, and the other is vice versa. It is important to achieve equal distance from the center of the caliper slot for proper rotor positioning. The fixed block is adjusted with a lock nut. By loosening it, you can move the position of the element as much as necessary. The movable block is adjusted by rotating the cable tension adjustment on the caliper. Having reached the desired position, we fix the non-static block.
    • We adjust the caliper. It must be aligned with the rotor.
    READ  Installing brakes v brake on a bike

    That’s all done. It often happens that the rotor still rubs against the block when moving. This is not surprising, because it is not always possible to align the pads themselves exactly. Determine which one is not fixed correctly (just push the bike and see, this will be enough) and adjust the desired one as described in the instructions above. But sometimes the cause of friction is rotor deformation. To do this, it must be aligned. If the flaws are too serious, it is better to replace.

    Adjusting hydraulic disc brakes

    Hydraulic bicycle brakes are positioned as self-adjusting, requiring no intervention or adjustment. But you still need to adjust them from time to time. For example, if you hear strange creaks or rustles during operation, or the factory settings are initially incorrectly set. The following few steps will help you quickly and efficiently set up your hydraulic disc brakes:

    • The bolts fixing the caliper on the adapter must be loosened.
    • Squeeze the brake lever and fix it in this position (if there is no assistant, use the materials at hand: electrical tape, fishing line, wire).
    • We carry out a visual inspection. As with a mechanical system, the rotor should be positioned clearly in the middle of the caliper slot, with pads equidistant from it. If the rotor is not positioned correctly, align it by pressing in the direction where the unevenness is noticed. This will contribute to the even distribution of liquid and fixation in the desired position of the pads and rotor.
    • At this point, the adjustment can be considered complete, and you just have to fix the mounting bolts and return the handle to its original position.

    As with mechanics, hydraulics also have a rotor that performs the same function. Sometimes it can give in to deformation. But this can be eliminated by determining the place of the bend and bending it in the opposite direction. Then the shuffling sounds when driving will stop.

    It is possible to fix problems on a bicycle, even by yourself, without proper experience and training. All you need to do is follow the instructions above. You should not rush through the setup, as this is a delicate process, and you will succeed.!

    How to adjust disc brakes on a bicycle?

    The disc braking system is of a simple design that can last for a long time. Such an embodiment is much cheaper and is characterized by high efficiency in use even with an increase in ambient humidity.

    Disc brakes are of two types: mechanical and hydraulic. Both options have their own characteristics, which we will talk about in more detail below.

    Bicycle disc brake design

    In many ways, it is the design of the disc brakes that determines how tuning is done.

    All devices fall into two categories:

    • The mechanical device has a cable due to which energy is transferred from the handle to the executive unit. In this case, a high force can be transmitted.
    • Hydraulics are represented by the line through which the fluid transfers energy to the brake pads.

    Disc mechanical brakes

    Mechanical brakes are more common. They are installed on almost all bicycles today.

    This is due to the points below:

    • They are much cheaper due to design features. Steel with high corrosion resistance is used in the manufacture of the cable. The length is selected depending on the characteristics of the bike.
    • The main elements: wire rope and sheath, are characterized by higher reliability. The use of steel in their manufacture determines a high degree of resistance to mechanical stress.
    • In the event of a malfunction, it is possible to carry out repairs yourself. All elements of the system are characterized by a simple design. Therefore, there are no serious difficulties with the repair.

    It should be borne in mind that every time after removing the wheel, you have to adjust the system. In addition, the cable must be lubricated from time to time to ensure the required level of efficiency at the time of operation.

    Disc hydraulic brakes

    Hydraulics are used to create a wide variety of mechanisms. Its high efficiency is primarily due to the non-compressibility of the liquid.

    The following points are called features:

    • The main advantage lies in the ease of braking and the softness of the system used. In this case, you can feel the pressure force, which increases towards the end of the handle stroke. In comparison with the mechanical type of device, the considered one is characterized by a smoother stroke of the handle. Therefore, there is no need to apply a lot of force to brake.
    • The hydraulics can withstand long-term operation. This is due to the fact that it is less prone to overheating. Therefore, braking can take place for a long period even when driving downhill.
    • Device adjustments are performed much less frequently. That is why you can remove the wheel for cleaning or replacing it.

    Things to do before adjusting the brakes?

    The brake system is adjusted periodically. This can ensure a long service life as well as high efficiency.

    The main recommendations are the following:

    • To begin with, the state of the main elements of the system is checked. This recommendation is due to the fact that even minor damage results in poor performance.
    • All damaged items must be replaced. Examples include a frayed cable or a damaged hydraulic line. Do not forget that over time, some elements may wear out.

    If the brake system does not have serious defects, then you can start adjusting it.

    Adjusting and adjusting disc brakes on a bicycle

    Despite the fact that the design is quite simple and reliable, from time to time you have to adjust it.

    bicycle, brake, adjustment

    This is done for the following reasons:

    • To ensure long-term performance.
    • High efficiency enhancements.

    Disc mechanical brakes

    It is recommended to adjust mechanical brakes when the disc rubs against the pad. In addition, adjustment is required in case of weakening of the braking force.

    Instructions for setting up mechanical disc brakes are as follows:

    • The brake lever is squeezed out to the stop.
    • The lock nut of the machine is unscrewed, after which the regulator is turned inside out. If you need to unscrew it strongly, then you have to loosen the cable.
    • It is determined what the gap between the disc and the pad. If the braking device is crooked, loosen the screws to adjust the position. They attach the device to an adapter or plug.
    • The screws that secure the brake are unscrewed.
    • Having made the caliper movable, squeeze the handle all the way, after which it must be fixed in this position. Next, the correct centering of the machine relative to the disc is carried out.
    • Tightening is carried out with a screw to fasten the brake machine. Twisting should be carried out periodically, since only in this case it is possible to exclude the possibility of shear.

    After that, the handle is released. Compliance with the recommendations specified in the instructions ensures the ideal position of the disc and pad.

    Disc hydraulic brakes

    In this case, the reason for the adjustment is the strong resistance of the wheel at the moment of movement, as well as when an extraneous sound or squeak appears.

    The adjustment instructions in this case are as follows:

    • The bolts on the caliper are unscrewed, after which the handle is squeezed out to press the pads against the wheel.
    • The next step is to check the position of the valves. They must be equally spaced from the rotor.
    • Next, all screws are tightened.
    • After locking the caliper, the handle is released. In this position, the block should not be pressed against the rim, be at a distance of about a millimeter.
    • Quite often there is a situation where the pads are located at different distances from the rim. The problem can be solved by pressing one of the pads, after which the handle is worked through 10 times. Due to such actions, unevenness is eliminated.

    The final stage involves setting the correct position of the handle that controls the system. For this, a special adjusting hexagon is installed.

    About Mountain Biking. How To Set Up Mechanical Disc Brakes

    Is it so difficult to set up disc brakes yourself, or is it worth using a specialist? Our article will help you set up the brakes yourself, no worse than a professional bicycle mechanic. The setting is made according to the following points:

    Preparation for setting 2. Center the caliper 3. Set the gap to the fixed shoe 4. Set the gap to the movable shoe 5. Tighten the cable fixing bolt 6. Adjust the handle position 7. Fine-tune the fixed brake shoe 8. Check the brakes.

    A little theory to start with Disc brake caliper attachment to the frame or fork comes in two standards, PM or IS. The photo shows the fundamental differences: Often, all modern brake calipers come with the PM mounting standard. It is much easier to configure in relation to the location of the disk. If the IS mount on your frame or fork is not a problem, because there are adapters that will help correct the situation: As you can see, there are IS / PM and PM / PM adapters, and if everything is clear with the former, then the latter are needed in order to fit your frame / forks with PM mount for 160mm rotor, set brakes with 180mm rotor. Important! Read the instructions and check the maximum rotor size allowed by the frame / fork manufacturer. There are also adapters with the designations front or rear. These adapters are designed for the front or rear wheel respectively. Unlabeled adapters are universal. The arrow on the adapter indicates which end of the adapter should be directed upwards, take this into account when installing! With the adapters sorted out, let’s move on to the brakes. A distinctive feature of disc mechanics is that when the brake is pressed, only one pad in the caliper approaches the rotor, and the second is stationary. In this regard, disc mechanics requires more precise tuning and periodic adjustment of the position of the pads. After a while, the block, which is always in a static position, will be erased and its distance from the disc will increase: During braking, the disc will bend more towards the stationary block, which significantly affects the quality of braking. You do not need to readjust the brakes to remedy this disadvantage. The red in / out wheel will help you adjust the position of the static pad. If there is no such a twist on the brakes, then there must be an adjusting bolt for a hexagon or Torx (as is the case with BB7). But back to our setup

    • Preparing for setup

    To prevent your adjustments from getting lost, make sure that the adapter is well screwed to the frame / fork, the rotor is even and well screwed to the hub, and the wheel is securely fixed in the frame / fork.

    • Centering the caliper

    After you have made sure that all connections are secure, the first step is to align the caliper exactly centered on the disc. To do this, loosen the bolts securing the caliper to the adapter and center the rotor relative to the sides of the caliper. The rotor should be exactly in the middle, then the pads will wear evenly. Lock the caliper. Important! If your caliper is centered, you do not need to repeat this procedure!

    • We expose the gap to the fixed block

    In order to set clearance to the fixed brake shoe using the red adjustment or the Torx wrench, bring the fixed shoe as close to the surface of the rotor as possible, but not so that it bends under the load of the shoe, but only slightly touches it. By turning the adjustment clockwise, you move the shoe closer to the rotor, and counterclockwise you move the shoe away.

    • We expose the gap to the movable block

    First, loosen the bolt securing the cable in the caliper (highlighted in green) so that you can move the pad proximity lever with your hands and the cable does not interfere with you. Now rotate clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the red moveable shoe adjustment so that the proximity lever is clamping the rotor between the shoes somewhere in the middle of its travel. Important! Not all mechanical brakes have a sliding shoe adjustment. If it is not there, just set the approach lever so that the rotor is clamped somewhere in the middle of the brake lever travel.

    • We tighten the cable fixing bolt

    Using pliers, tighten the cable and tighten the cable fixing bolt.

    • Adjusting the handle position

    Use the black twist on the brake lever to set a comfortable distance from the grip to the handlebars at which your brake will be applied. By unscrewing the twist, you move the brake lever away from the grip when the brake engages. If you are unable to get a comfortable position with this twist, you should readjust the brake using step 5!

    • Fine adjustment of a fixed brake shoe

    Return to step 3 and unscrew the adjustment of the position of the stationary shoe by half a turn so that the rotor does not catch it when rotating.

    • Checking the brakes

    Check if everything suits you in braking. To do this, do not fly on the nearest trail, you can simply ride right next to the brake setting. If everything suits you, congratulations, you did it! Was it that hard?

    How to adjust disc brakes on a bicycle: techniques for hydraulics and mechanics

    Normally, the disc brake stops the wheel as quickly as possible, allowing the force to be dosed on the verge of blocking the rotor. Deviations appear after replacing the cable, pads and overhaul. However, the settings are violated during long-term use, as well as after removing the wheel, for example, to seal the bicycle camera at home. How to avoid the famous rotor shuffling, how to eliminate braking, and, in the end, how to restore the factory braking character. these and other questions are answered by the editorial staff of Autobann magazine.

    Before adjusting: preparing for tuning

    The decision to adjust disc brakes on a mountain or road bike will only be successful if brake diagnostics are included. By the way, the diagnostic measures for hydraulics and mechanics will be different. How hydraulic brakes on a bicycle differ from mechanical ones. we already had a conversation.

    In short, in the hydraulic circuit, both pads push the fluid, acting on the caliper pistons, which results in clear modulation and easy handle travel. And in mechanics, only one friction lining is movable. It is brought to the disc by pulling the cable with the brake lever.

    However, whatever the brake drive is, it is worth checking:

    • Rotor for deformation. For 100% confidence in the flatness of the disc, it is better to unscrew it and put it on a flat surface. A rough estimate can be made while on the bike by rotating the wheel and estimating the distance to both pads through the slot in the caliper. Friction linings must be equidistant from the disc in any position.
    • Brake pad wear and integrity. Remove the pads by removing the cotter pin and assess the residual thickness of the friction material. The surface in contact with the disc must be free of pits and dents.
    • Cleanliness of pads and rotor. The presence of oil traces and accumulations of dirt on their working surfaces is not allowed. To clean them, you can use fine sandpaper (for example, “zero”) and rags soaked in any cleaner (acetone, ammonia.).
    • Wheel hub location in frame / fork dropouts. The bushing should fit freely into the seat and abut against the counter surface of the frame or fork. Distortions in the installation cannot be avoided, but they should be minimal, practically invisible. Micron skewing is immediately audible on the brakes in the form of rotor shuffling. This is why disc brake adjustments are required after re-mounting the wheel.

    It will not be superfluous to look at the state of the drive. With cable disc brakes, check the cable integrity. The end should not be unwoven, and the service life should not exceed 3 years. When replacing the cable, change the shirts. It is not necessary to lubricate it, but if you decide, then do it only with the help of a special lubricant that does not attract dust.

    READ  How To Open A Bicycle Lock Without A Key

    Nothing should leak on the hydraulics. Weaknesses are connections:

    • Master cylinder. hydraulic line.
    • Brake Lever. Master Cylinder.
    • Brake caliper hose.M

    These joints received a weak status due to the use of cuffs, which dry out over time and leak.

    How to adjust disc mechanical brakes on a mountain bike

    Mechanics are gradually becoming history. Now it can still be seen in the budget line of Russian Stels, Forward and Stern. Considering the price, there is no need to talk about the belonging of brake system parts to such global brands as Shimano and Sram. Usually this is some kind of noname kit that has a minimum of settings.

    Another nail in the list of disadvantages of mechanical disc brakes is that they need adjustment more often. This is because one of the pads is motionless. As it is erased, the distance between it and the disc automatically increases. Meanwhile, fluctuations in the values ​​of this clearance should be insignificant, otherwise the friction linings will wear unevenly, the quality of deceleration suffers.

    Checking the readiness of the system for adjustment

    So, first you need to make sure that:

    • The adapter to which the caliper is attached is well secured to the frame or fork (bolts are tight).
    • The already tested rotor is securely fixed with screws on the hub.
    • The wheel is installed on the bike, the eccentric / nuts are tightened.
    • The lamb for adjusting the cable tension is unscrewed no more than 1.5 turns (located next to the handle or caliper).
    • The cable is fixed on the movable arm of the machine.

    Working with a caliper

    Adjusting mechanical disc brakes on a mountain bike is a two-step process: adjusting the caliper and adjusting the brake lever. To adjust the caliper means to set the pads symmetrically relative to the disc, while the gaps should be minimal.

    When adjusting the caliper, it is important to follow the sequence of actions:

    • Center the clipper. Loosen the bolts securing the caliper to the adapter and, moving the caliper, find its position in which the pads will be equidistant from the disc and completely parallel to it. After centering the machine, pull it to the adapter, observing the rule of uniform tightening: turn one bolt ¼ turn, then the other also ¼, and repeat the described procedure again with the first and second fasteners.
    • Align the clearance between the fixed pad and the disc. Any grade of mechanical disc brake caliper has a bolt or adjusting wheel to move the fixed pad closer / away from the disc. Here the task is to use this adjustment in order to bring the block as close to the rotor as possible, while maintaining the clearance. The easiest way to do this is to move the friction pad close to the disc, but so that it does not bend it, and loosen the bolt a little to get a small gap.
    • Adjust the clearance between the moving shoe and the rotor. On serious kits, a special adjustment is provided for this. a bolt that moves the block regardless of the tension of the cable. On cheap bikes, this setting is combined with the cable tension. The task is to set the same gap as between the fixed friction lining and the disc.

    Council. Adjust the clearance so that the friction linings grip the disc tightly in the middle of the brake lever travel. To do this, you will need to adjust the tension of the cable using the wing and the position of the fixed shoe (in order to maintain symmetry about the rotor).

    Note. Caliper centering can be skipped if this operation was performed earlier and the wheel was not removed.

    Adjusting the brake lever travel

    This adjustment allows you to adjust the position of the handle when the brake engages. There are no specific recommendations on this matter. Someone is more comfortable for the bike to brake at the slightest pressure on the handle, someone more like the presence of a small idle and a dead grip in the middle of the lever path.

    This adjustment is carried out using a screw located in the brake lever housing. The final adjustment of the severity of the brake seizure is made by the cable tension thumbscrew.

    Attention! After completing all adjustments, check that the pads are equidistant from the rotor. It is possible that the fixed friction lining will need to be adjusted.

    Particular questions on mechanics. How to release the disc brake on a bicycle

    It is enough to screw in the cable tension drum a certain number of turns. If its stroke is not enough, unscrew the nut securing the cable to the caliper and loosen its tension. Option “so-so”. unscrew the handle adjustment bolt.

    Don’t forget about the fixed shoe. Moving away the movable friction lining with a cable, move the static one, so that symmetry with respect to the rotor is maintained.

    How to pull

    Proceed in the reverse order of loosening the cable and you will get the desired result.

    How to make the brakes brake well

    Use good quality pads and center the caliper against the rotor in a timely manner so that the disc bends as little as possible.

    Adjusting hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle with your own hands

    The hydraulics are called self-adjusting. Where this status came from is unclear. The centering of the pads relative to the disc can also get lost here. And the shuffling of the rotor itself is one of the first complaints from owners of even new bikes.

    In general, setting up hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle is easier than using cable brakes. But drawing a parallel between adjusting the brake mechanism and cleaning the chain, we can say that working with the brakes is still more difficult than washing the chain at home.

    The main goal is the same: to center the caliper, check if the pads are equidistant from the disc, adjust the handle stroke, if its design allows it. It is necessary to carry out the adjustment step by step:

    • Loosen the bolts securing the caliper to the adapter.
    • Clamp the brake lever to the stop and fix it in this position using the available means (wire, electrical tape.).
    • Check the position of the rotor. It should be located exactly in the center of the caliper slot. If the disc is bent, then the pads are not equidistant from it. The required position of the friction linings and the rotor can be achieved by bending the disc in the opposite direction from the observed bending. Fluid will flow from one piston to the other and the pads will align.
    • Tighten the caliper mounting bolts alternately. Use the 1/4 turn tightening technique found in the Mechanics Set-up Technique.
    • Adjust the position of the handle using the screw on its body.

    Service technology: brake setting on MTB type bike

    The level of safety, to a greater extent determined by the state of the braking system, depends not only on the class of components used, but also on the frequency of inspection and the frequency of adjusting the unit. Despite the complexity of its design, the service is quite affordable for everyone who is interested in cycling.

    What this article is about:

    Types of brakes and features of their adjustment

    On mountain bicycles, three types of brake modules have been used:

    • rim (V-Brake);
    • disk with a mechanical drive;
    • disc with hydraulic drive.

    As is the case with the derailleurs, it is advisable that the adjustment of the cable brakes on the bicycle is preceded by a detailed inspection of the control line elements. the cable and shirt. Before adjusting hydraulic disc brakes, it is recommended to inspect the hydraulic line for various damage and, if necessary, replace it with subsequent bleeding of the system.

    Setting up a budget system: how to properly adjust V-brakes on a bicycle

    Ideal for field repairs and cheap to operate, V-Brakes are configured in four steps. over, compliance with their sequence is extremely important. Before adjusting the brakes on your bike, disconnect the feed jacket from the right (for the front brake) or left (for the rear) arm by simultaneously pulling the metal cable guide and pulling the brake arm towards the rim. 1. The search for the optimal position of the pads relative to the rim is performed in the following sequence (the pads are adjusted alternately):

    • using a hexagon, the screw securing the shoe to the lever is loosened;
    • the block is tightly pressed against the rim;
    • the search for the optimal location of the shoe is carried out. its outer and inner edges should be coradial to the wheel circumference;
    • the block is slightly pulled against the lever.

    Debugging the location of the working plane of the shoe. When adjusting the lever brakes on a bicycle, this transition is given special attention: it is necessary to ensure that the front edge of the pads touches the rim before the rear. To do this, under the rear edge of the shoe fit some solid object 1-1.5 mm thick and press it against the rim. Then the fixing nut is finally tightened. Next, repeat the transition for the second lever.

    Centering the position of the levers (selection of the force of the springs of the levers) The task is to ensure the simultaneous adherence of the pads to the rim. Regulating elements. screws located on the left and right levers, near the place where the latter fit on the fork. The cycle of preparation for commissioning includes the following transitions:

    • install the cable guide in the tube holder on the arm;
    • if the cable was disconnected, it must be fixed with the corresponding screw on the lever.

    Operations on how to adjust the force of the brake springs on a bicycle are as follows:

    • clamping the brake lever, the moment of contact of the pads with the rim is monitored;
    • on the lever with the block that touched earlier, it is necessary to strengthen the spring by tightening the corresponding screw (you can loosen the spring on the second lever).

    Setting the distance of the stationary arrangement of the pads from the wheel rim (selection of the optimal cable tension) The task of the stage is to adjust the sharpness of the brake mechanism. The operation is performed in the following sequence:

    • the adjusting drum turns almost all the way (you can leave 2-3 threads);
    • unscrewing the screw securing the cable to the brake lever, slightly tightening it and tightening the fixing bolt again, the optimal distance between the pads and the rim is found (1-2 mm);
    • if it is necessary to slightly increase / decrease the severity of braking, it is enough to unscrew / wrap the drum.

    Intermediate: Setting up mechanical (cable) disc brakes on a bicycle

    Before adjusting any disc brakes, check:

    • the accuracy of the wheel axle setting in the dropouts (seats) and the clamping force of the hub in the frame / fork;
    • uniform tightening of the brake disc (rotor) and the brake unit housing;
    • deviation of the rotor shape from the vertical plane (if necessary, align the rotor with an adjustable wrench).

    The technology, including how to adjust disc brakes on a bicycle, is as follows:

    • disconnect the drive cable from the brake machine (caliper);
    • loosen the two screws securing the caliper to the brake unit housing;
    • extend the fixed block (located closer to the wheel spokes) using a bolt located on the inside of the caliper;
    • press the caliper so that the static pad is in contact with the rotor;
    • tighten the screws securing the caliper to the brake unit body (attention. the plane of the shoe should not move from the plane of the rotor);
    • by rotating the corresponding screw, achieve a minimum clearance between the fixed shoe and the rotor;
    • rotating the lever to which the cable is attached, make sure that in the clamped position the rotor does not twist, but bends evenly towards the static block (in case of non-observance, the caliper setting should be repeated);
    • install and fix the cable.

    After the adjustment of the working unit of the disc brakes, the setting torque should be adjusted by rotating the adjusting drums near the brake lever and caliper.

    Pro: How to Set Up Hydraulic Disc Brakes on Your Bicycle

    The adjustment of disc brakes with a hydraulic drive is much easier to implement, in contrast to a disc-type deceleration module using a cable as a force-transmitting element. The setting takes place in the following sequence:

    • loosen the screws securing the caliper to the bracket;
    • clamp the brake lever;
    • make attempts to turn the wheel back and forth, thus centering the position of the caliper;
    • tighten the screws securing the brake machine;
    • in cases where the cylinders / pistons were serviced or a new machine is installed, it is necessary to bring the pads to the rotor to the working condition by sharply pressing the module control knob 15-20 times.

    During the operation, problems and questions may arise on how to adjust the brakes on a bicycle with hydraulic lines, expressed as follows:

    • when rotating, the rotor touches one of the pads. it is necessary to slightly shift the caliper towards the rubbing pad;
    • when rotating, the rotor touches both pads. it is necessary to remove them from the disc by slightly unscrewing the adjusting hexagon on the brake lever (it also determines the moment when the pads engage with the disc);
    • when the handle is pressed, the pistons move out unevenly. it is necessary to remove the module, push the piston that has advanced in a timely manner using a plate or a screwdriver and, fixing it, gently push out the jammed piston by pressing the brake lever and clean it;
    • the pistons do not return to their original position. it is necessary to clean the entire system;
    • the brake lever fails. it is necessary to bleed the system (if there are bubbles) or replace the brake line (if there are leaks).

    Summary

    The solution to the problem “how to adjust double-wishbone rim brakes on a bicycle” is to find the optimal position of the pads relative to the rim (coradiality and consistent touch first of the front edge, then the rear one), setting the simultaneous adherence to the rim.

    When adjusting disc brakes with mechanical and hydraulic drives, it is necessary to make sure that the pads are equidistant from the rotor and are located in planes parallel to the disc. On cable-operated disc brakes, ensure that the disc bends evenly towards the static pad.

    The final stage of setting up any brake system is the regulation of the sharpness of the module (the location of the setting moment depending on the position of the control handle).

    Table of Contents