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No brakes! WD’Shka hit the brake disc
There was such an opportunity, a little WD’s from the aerosol got on the brake disc. Consequently the brake has stopped working. I tried to clean the disc and pads (without removing) with alcohol and galoshes, the result is zero. Tell me how you can restore the brake performance.
Bake the disc and pads for 8-10 minutes over an open flame. There will be a lot of stench, get ready mentally. Advice with the brake clamped down does not help, as the pads simply slide over the disc.
A highly concentrated soap solution works well against WD-40. Laundry soap is desirable.
Remove the wash pads from the caliper and wash with a stiff bristled brush.
To ignite the pads is a proven option, but I would not ignite the disc. There is a chance that it will lead. It is of course designed for heating, but I don’t think that up to temperatures at which kerosene will burn out.
SANTA CRUZ V10 carbon and GT Ruckus SX rider!
Well, when I filled the disc with mineral oil, calcination helped me. The disc, if led, is easy to fix.
I didn’t deal with mineral water, but pillbox is a very caustic substance. The disc will not drive, it will be released. This is different.
SANTA CRUZ V10 carbon and GT Ruckus SX rider!
I just calcined the pads, just put them in the oven and put them at 350 degrees for 10 minutes, and I didn’t heat up the disc with alcohol first and then with a lighter. but the brakes did not immediately start working normally, but it was acceptable. and then somewhere within a week they returned to normal
By the way about the brake fluid pillbox. Yes, it is a very corrosive liquid. But it is very hygroscopic, i.e. ordinary water is a very good solvent for her.
As Vanya wrote, it is optimal to put new pads. And this is not a whim, like. “Too lazy to mess around.” As far as I know, it is not possible to obtain 100% braking efficiency on the pads after oil ingress. Even burnt oil leaves residue behind.
How To Remove Oil From Your Disc Brakes On A MTB
The issue of flushing brake pads is not only about finding the right flushing agent. Since the pad material is a porous substance, it is difficult to remove the already absorbed contaminant. A simple wipe will not help, here you have to wash the deck like sailors (brush, a lot of water and a lot of foam).
Calcination also conceals pitfalls. The main one is the temperature. The lack of effect will not produce, the overkill can negatively affect the material of the pad compound. There are quite a lot of materials from which the pads are made, and it is not a fact that everyone tolerates excessive heating well. And, as I noted, burnt oil residue does not increase braking performance.
Well, the ways to revive the oil-lubricated brakes to a more or less acceptable level have already been described by the participants in this topic.
Do not accidentally spill grease, degreaser or brake fluid on the disc or brake pads. This is even worse than getting fat from the skin. If you do accidentally spill some grease or other liquid on the wheel, remove the wheel from the bike and thoroughly clean the wheel with isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag.
If fluid gets on the brake pads, it is better to replace them. Or remove the top layer of the lining material, but often oil or liquid soaks all the material, and then constantly contaminates the disc, which, of course, does not have the best effect on braking.
Do not allow third-party fluids to spill onto the disc or brake pads
Checking the thickness of the brake pad
Disc brakes do not require much maintenance, but the pads do wear out. As soon as the brake surface material becomes thinner than 2.5 mm, the pads must be replaced. When the width reaches 1.5 mm, the brake discs should be replaced.
With fingers and grease: 5 disc brake maintenance mistakes
If you want your disc brakes to perform better and last longer, avoid these five mistakes.
Brake lever on removed wheel
Do not squeeze the brake lever on the removed wheel. If you do this with hydraulic brakes without a spacer between the pads, they will move closer together until they are connected, and then they will not move far enough to return the brake disc into place. Fortunately, this is easy to fix. You need to move the pad separator so that it snaps into place, and then the pads will return to their original position.
SILENCE! How to fix contaminated disc brakes
If the separator does not “come back”, remove the pads and use something thin and flat (such as a slotted screwdriver) to gently slide the pistons into the brake body. Reinstall the pads and wheel, squeeze the brake lever several times. and you can go again.
Do not touch the surface of the brake disc
There are two problems here. First, the disc can get very hot after braking, so touching it after a descent or after a ride can be “unpleasantly scalding”. Second, and more importantly, finger grease can clog the disc and lead to loss of stopping power (and also cause strumming brakes).
Only the right tools and fluids
Using mineral oil for a brake that requires DOT brake fluid (or vice versa) is a recipe for failure. Basically, just like not using a torque wrench to tighten the fasteners. Or how to align a bent brake disc with your fingers.
That is, if you plan to take care of the brakes yourself, you must:
- find out which brake fluid is suitable for them;
- always use a torque wrench;
- use a special tool — not your fingers — to align the brake disc.
A master class on servicing bicycle disc brakes. in the following video:
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Grease for bicycle chains (for dry weather) Mottec Grease For Bicycle Chains 20 ml (XM 10017)
Bicycle chain lubricants
MOTTEC Chain Grease 150 ml (XM 10001)
Mottec Grease For Bicycle Chains 200 ml (XM 10007)
Mottec Grease For Bicycle Chains ultrahydrophobic 20 ml (XM 10018)
Mottec Grease For Bicycle Chains ultrahydrophobic 200 ml (XM 10008)
Verylube chain lubricant, bike lubricant 150 ml (XB 40343)
Any equipment needs to be looked after so that it works for a long time and without interruptions. A bicycle in which chains are subjected to special stress is no exception. Caring for your bike and its specific parts involves treating the chains with lubricants. Many people argue about how often to do this, but we advise you to be guided by the situation. On average, grease should be applied every 50-100 kilometers, and in rain and mud, immediately after the ride.
Basically, experts distinguish 3 large categories of lubricants:
Such a lubricant is made on a synthetic basis, paraffin is often added for greater reliability. Wet-weather agent protects the bike perfectly. Repair is not necessary if you clean the chain before riding in high humidity conditions. The lubricant stays on the chain after processing, so it is best to apply it in the fall or winter, and in dry weather when driving in water and mud.
The main advantage of wax and silicone grease is its durability. It is not washed off, so one treatment for 50-100 kilometers is enough. But caring for a bike with such a greasy product is fraught with the fact that dust and dirt easily cling to the chain. Then you will need to use a powerful solvent to effectively remove grease residues.
Unlike grease, this tool is made on the basis of Teflon, which perfectly repels dust and dirt. The lubricant will also cope with short exposure to water, so it will save your bike while riding in the rain. The chain for which the lubricant is described in this paragraph should be washed, cleaned and re-lubricated after rain to prevent oxidation.
Among the advantages of dry lubricant, it is worth highlighting its dustproof effect and low stickiness. Therefore, the product does not remain on the chain, effectively removing dust and dirt at the same time. The main thing is to take care of the bike in advance so that the lubricant has time to dry. Low stickiness is at the same time a disadvantage. the grease is easy to wash off, so after exposure to water it is better to apply it again.
In addition to the two main categories, the assortment includes greases with additional components. For example, a ceramic compound forms an extra layer on the surface of the chain, extending the life and protecting the bike. In this case, repairs will need to be carried out much less often.
Thickener grease is the second type of additive. Such a product, when applied to the chain, is very liquid and flowing, and then quickly thickens. The solvent evaporates from the composition, and the lubricant stays inside the rollers longer. It is important to quickly wipe off the grease around the roller during processing.
Wax lubrication provides long-term care for your bike. This remedy is suitable for dry weather, ideal for summer. The grease forms a thick layer that lasts a long time and repels dust. But in the rain or on heavy dirt, the lubrication is not as effective, therefore it is less durable.
In addition, you can separate the lubricants by packaging. Most often they are sold in bottles or vials and in aerosol cans. The first option is convenient because the lubricant is easy to apply to the bike. Repairs can be performed locally by injecting the product directly into the rollers. An aerosol is suitable when many chains need to be processed in a short time. But it penetrates the rollers worse, and you can also spray the grease on the adjacent parts of the bike out of habit.
- Friction points of rivets and inner plates.
- Friction points of external and internal plates.
- All internal parts of the roller.
That is, it is the inner parts of the bicycle chain that need to be processed, not the outer ones. This is best achieved when applying the lubricant by the drip method, from bottles and vials with a tip. Taking care of your bike with these lubricants takes a long time, but the results are better. If you really care about your transport, then choose the drip method.
Spraying is much more convenient, easier and faster. But the quality suffers in this case, and it directly depends on the skill of the bike owner. The fact is that using an aerosol, you can accidentally spray the lubricant all over the bike. Repairs from this will not improve, quite the contrary. If the agent gets on the brake disc or pads, it can cause the brakes to jam and cause serious injury. On other parts, dirt and dust will stick to the lubricant, which also will not improve the condition of the bike.
The main advice is to use only specialized lubricants for processing the chain! Do not buy oil of any type or the proverbial WD-40 cleaner, which only helps in cleaning parts. If you care about the environment, buy degradable materials that will volatilize faster. Bicycle care is best done if you know all of its characteristics and choose a lubricant based on them.
Cyclist’s checklist from VeloGO
We would like to share important information that will be useful to you when using your bike
First maintenance (MOT). FREE
The first maintenance is carried out no later than 150-200 km of run or 1 month (whichever comes first) from the date of purchase of the bike
The list of works that are included in the “First TO”:
- Transmission setup
- Adjusting the brakes
- Broaching threaded connections
- Wheel inflation
- Chain lubrication
IMPORTANT: If for carrying out these works it is necessary to wash the bike or clean the transmission, in this case, the washing and cleaning work is paid and paid separately.
→ Absolutely any new bike needs the first service after 150-200 km. Do not worry if the brake is rubbing on a new bike or the speed switch needs to be adjusted If you have any questions about the operation of components and components. ask us, we will be happy to advise!
Technical service support 1 year. FREE
Valid when buying bicycles: Merida, Cannondale, Pride, Apollo, Schwinn, Electra, Orbea, Ghost, Haibike, KTM, Marin, Fuji
During the year (from the date of purchase), the owners of these bicycles, if necessary, can visit our VeloGO bike workshops to carry out technical work and troubleshoot
1 year of free service support includes works:
IMPORTANT: If for these works it is necessary to wash the bike or clean the transmission, in this case, the washing and cleaning work is paid and paid separately.
How often should maintenance be carried out on the bike??
First MOT: For new bicycles. Carried out no later than 150-200 km or 1 month (whichever comes first) after buying a bike
Standard maintenance: Every 1000 km or 3 months of use of the bike. Chains, cables, bowdens may need to be replaced. Bulkhead and lubrication of bike parts (transmission, steering, bushings)
Detailed TO: Preparing the bike for the season! The list of necessary work and the need to replace spare parts is determined after diagnostics in the workshop of all bike components
IMPORTANT: Before each ride, we recommend checking the operation of the brakes, the pressure in the tires (must correspond to the marking on the tire), if necessary, lubricate the chain. You also need to make sure that there are no backlashes in the connections, check the operation of the suspension (if present).
We do not recommend the use of pressure washers. The bike must be washed so that water does not get inside the bushings, steering column, carriage cartridge, as well as inside the shirts (bowdens) of the bike. If grease gets on the brake disc (rotor), you must first wipe it off with a clean, dry cloth (napkin), without rubbing it over the rotor, and then thoroughly treat the rotor with a special fluid for cleaning disc brakes. Use only alcohol-based or water-based liquids with a degreasing effect. For more information on caring for your bike and setting it up, read the Bicycle Owner’s Manual (bike passport).