Assembling the rear wheel of a child’s bike

Rear wheel

Removal and installation of the rear wheel. To do this, release the rear hub brake lever from the clamp that secures the lever to the chain fork blade. On some bicycles, the brake lever has lugs that lock it in position relative to the fork. Unscrew the axle fastening nuts by moving the wheel forward, loosen the chain tension and remove the chain from the sprocket of the hub. Remove the wheel axle from the grooves on the rear fork end.

The wheel is installed in the reverse order. Rear wheel installation requirements are the same as front wheel installation requirements.

Rear wheel hub. Unscrew the slotted locknut (on the side of the brake lever), remove the whisker washer. If the locknut is difficult to loosen, hold the axle with a wrench at the square end of the axle. Holding the brake lever inserted into the left cone with your left hand, unscrew the hub axle from the left cone, turning it with a wrench at the square end. Take out the axle with the right cone and remove the brake lever. Remove the sprocket and drive cone assembly by rotating and sliding outward. Remove the drive cone ball bearing. Then remove the brake cone assembly and brake drum from the hub housing, and then the left cone. Carefully not to deform, remove the left dust protector. Remove the left cone bearing. The bearing of the right cone is covered with a dust arrestor. The dust protector must be removed carefully, gradually pulling it out of the sleeve housing. If it is difficult to remove it, you do not need to touch it so as not to deform. The right cone bearing is easily accessible to flush and lubricate. The drive cone dust protector is assembled with an asterisk and a drive cone. Assemble the bushing in reverse order.

The bushing is adjusted only with the left taper. The right cone must be screwed in all the way.

The sprocket of the bushing must be in the same plane with the sprocket of the carriage, otherwise the chain will jump off when driving. The rear wheel, like the front wheel, must turn freely under the weight of its own valve. The brake lever is installed and secured after adjusting the hub bearings. It is possible to re-adjust the bushing with the wheel installed. To do this, loosen the axle nuts of the wheel, loosen the lock nut securing the brake lever, and turn the axle with a wrench at the square end. After that, fasten the locknut and fastening nuts.

When lubricating the rear hub, do not allow grease to get on the brake drum, brake cone and drive cone rollers. In this case, slipping of the bushing during the working stroke and poor braking are possible.

You can check the correct adjustment of the assembled wheel by lifting the bike by the saddle and turning the cranks a full turn. The wheel should then rotate for several minutes. Braking should be steady, gradual, and when you press the pedal sharply. instant.

How to properly disassemble the rear hub?

Prepare a comfortable, well-lit workspace for yourself. Using a puller and a whip, carefully remove the cassette from the axis. After that, we open the retaining ring and take out the bearings. Before disassembling this structure, carefully study how it works, so that later you can put everything back together without any problems.

Putting the sleeve back

After you have disassembled the rear hub, replaced the necessary parts and lubricated it, we put everything back. This process cannot be called complicated, but it is better to show concentration and accuracy. Insert the axle and adjust it with the left cone. It must be pushed onto the axle as far as it will go. After that, it is necessary to put on washers and lock nuts. The final step is bearing alignment.

If you need to repair the rear hub, follow these instructions:

  • Remove the retaining ring and axle
  • We dismantle the parts that are opposite to the asterisks
  • We adjust the position of the cone and locknuts (they must be loosened or tightened)

How the rear hub works?

The hub is the central part of the wheel, which allows it to rotate freely. The following elements of this component can be distinguished:

  • Axis
  • Lock-nut
  • Washer
  • Cone

Depending on the design features, the bushings are divided into:

  • Without brake
  • With built-in brakes

assembling, rear, wheel, child, bike

This component of the wheel is also distinguished by the material from which it is made. Usually, to create it, use:

Rear hub service

In order for your bike to work without interruptions, it is necessary to systematically carry out preventive diagnostics of the rear hub. It needs constant lubrication and replacement of the bearing balls. The bushing housing itself must be tightened periodically. If all these actions are not carried out in time, in the near future you will have to repair the entire wheel.

In what cases it is necessary to carry out an emergency repair of the bushing:

  • Backlash
  • A crunch of bearings is heard

If your bike displays one of these symptoms, proceed with the rear hub diagnosis immediately. Riding such a bike is simply dangerous and the bike will wear out in record time.

Bicycle rear hub. DIY repair

Today, a bicycle is one of the most profitable and low-cost modes of transport. However, no one canceled all sorts of breakdowns and malfunctions, so if you do not want to significantly increase the costly part of your budget, it is better to learn how to cope with small problems on your own.

One of the most important parts of your bike is the rear wheel hub. Therefore, you must be ready to carry out repair work if necessary.

Why the bushing usually fails?

The most common causes of rear hub failure include:

  • Poor bike maintenance
  • Backlash
  • Long-term wear

Any cycling enthusiast, even a beginner, should understand that systematic and timely maintenance of a bicycle is the main aspect that affects its life. Do not start the bike or ride a broken bike. Bicycle maintenance is a fairly simple and fun process that shouldn’t be a burden for you. If for a number of reasons you cannot carry out it yourself, contact a specialized service station, where, for a reasonable fee, you will be given a full diagnosis and service of the bike.

In case of impossibility of repair, you can purchase the bushing in the section “Bushings and eccentrics”.

Of those components that are most often subject to wear and tear and require systematic intervention, the carriage can be distinguished. It is on this detail that we will dwell in more detail.

The ratchet is a mechanism that is inextricably linked to the rear wheel hub. It removes the need to pedal without stopping and transfers torque from the chain to the pedals.

Experts recommend carrying out this procedure after each trip through contaminated areas.

The drivetrain plays a very important role in the operation of the entire bike, so you must carefully monitor the wear of its individual parts.

In order to install disc brakes on a bicycle, you can go to any bike workshop, or carry out this process yourself.

Preparatory work

  • First, decide where exactly you will build. Please note that some elements are greased with grease, so they can spoil or stain the parquet or carpet. Allocate for this purpose a flat surface of about four square meters and cover it.
  • Print the box and lay out the parts so that they are within your reach. Baby transport box has been in the warehouse for some time, so wipe it down with a clean cloth.
  • To implement your idea, you will need a set of keys (30, 17, 15, 14, 13, 12, 10, 8), Also put a hexagon (4 mm), a Phillips screwdriver and a hammer in the immediate vicinity of the work site. The presence of an electric screwdriver will make the assembly process more productive and faster.

Instructions for assembling a two-wheeled children’s bicycle, using the example of the Profi Trike Butterfly

We would like to draw your attention to the fact that products, consisting of a large number of parts, are delivered to the buyer disassembled in a cardboard box for greater safety and security of transportation.

Bike Parts List Profi Trike Butterfly

  • 1. Pedals in the shape of flowers. Please note that they are labeled “right / left” and are installed in the direction of travel.
  • 2. Chain with clasp (are in a separate bag).
  • 3. Front sprocket.
  • 4. Front handbrake element, which is fixed to the front fork.
  • 5. Rearview mirror.
  • 6. Soft elements of protection on the steering wheel.
  • 7. Rear wheel.
  • 8. Front wheel.
  • 9. Basket with decorative elements (there are fasteners inside).
  • 10. Decorative elements. tinsel on the steering wheel.
  • 11. Bicycle frame.
  • 12. Rear wing.
  • 13. Front wing.
  • 14. Decorative elements. disks in wheels.
  • 15. Call.
  • 16. Front reflector holder
  • 17. Front fork fixing nut, lock nut
  • 18. Seat.
  • 19. Front fork
  • 20. Seatpost.
  • 21. Wing holder.
  • 22. Front reflective element.
  • 23. Rear reflective element.
  • 24. Reflector on the front wheel.
  • 25. Reflector on the rear wheel.
  • 26. Brake cable.
  • 27. Chain protection.
  • 28. Trunk.
  • 29. Decorative element. decoration with butterflies on the steering wheel.
  • 30. Safety wheels.
  • 31. Brackets for safety wheels.
  • 32. Glasses of a steering column. 2 pieces.
  • 33. Crowns. 2 pieces.
  • 34. Bolts. 6 pcs. Wrench size S 10 length 8 mm
  • 35. Bolts. 2 pcs. Wrench size S 10 length 12 mm
  • 36. Bolts. 4 pcs. For Phillips screwdriver, length 8 mm
  • 37. Bolts. 2 pcs. For Phillips screwdriver length 12 mm
  • 38. Bolts. 2 pcs. For Phillips screwdriver, length 6 mm
  • 39. Nuts. 6 pcs. turnkey S 8
  • 40. Bolt. 1 pc. For Phillips screwdriver 16 mm
  • 41. Nut. 1 pc. lock nut for spanner S 10
  • 42. Wedge-shaped bolts. 2 pcs.
  • 43. Nuts. 4 pcs. turnkey S 10
  • 44. Safety wheels fixing bolt. 2 pcs.
  • 45. Wrench nut S13. 1 piece.
  • 46. ​​Seat post clamping bolt
  • 47. Front wheel axle assy
  • 48. Gaskets. 2 pcs.
  • 49. Curved washer for 2 holes. 2 pcs.
  • 50. Flat washer for 2 holes. 2 pcs.

Assembling the bike Profi Trike Butterfly 2New

  • 1. The glasses are tightly pressed into the steering column. Use a hammer to do this. In order not to bend the parts, you need to hammer through the plank.
  • 2. Put the crown on the front fork.
  • 3. Now we insert the front fork into the steering column and put on the second of the available crowns from above. We fix everything with a flat nut.
  • 4. After the flat nut we put on the holder for the reflector and the washer. We tighten everything from above with a lock nut.
  • 5. On the rear fender, use a flat washer to secure the fender holder. Using a screwdriver, fasten with two bolts (36 of which are four).
  • 6. With two bolts 37, we attach the rear fender to the frame and tighten tightly.
  • 7. Screw the wing holder (both ends) to the frame with 10 mm bolts. (34)
  • 8. The trunk is attached to the frame with four bolts (34 at the bottom and two 35 under the seat).
  • 9. Unscrew two nuts from the rear wheel axle (for a wrench S 15, hereinafter the key sizes are indicated as S and the key number) and fasten it with a bolt with a clamping nut. We put on the brake part and fix it.
  • 10. Install the front sprocket on the axle and fix it with a wedge-shaped bolt.
  • 11. The chain is passed through the frame and pulled over the front and rear sprockets. We fix it with a lock.
  • 12. Adjust the chain tension.
  • 13. Additional wheels using bolts S12 (with a smooth surface) are attached to the holders for additional wheels.
  • 14. Put on the gaskets. We fix the side wheels on the sides and fix them with a nut S 15. Do not tighten the fasteners too tight yet. we will establish their final position when we pump up the wheels at the very end.
  • 15. Thread the axle through the front wheel. We put on a crown on top and fix.
  • 16. Place a flat nut on top.
  • 17. We attach the front fender and the fender holder in the same way as in the case of the rear wheel (see item 5).
  • 18. Fix the front fender to the frame with the bolt that comes with the front brakes.
  • 19. The ends of the frame holder are attached to the frame post using bolts 34.
  • 20. We fix the front wheel with a washer and a nut.
  • 21. I insert the steering wheel into the steering column and squeeze it. Adjusting the brake brushes.
  • 22. Now we will deal with the hand brakes. Install the brake cable: fix it in the brake lever and pass it through the hole above the frame.
  • 23. Install the front reflector and tighten it with the bolt that comes with it.
  • 24. We put on soft elements of protection on the steering wheel and fix them with Velcro.
  • 25. Install the decorative element with butterflies and fix it with the plastic ties that come with it. Cut off the protruding ends of the plastic ties with scissors.
  • 26. Install the basket just below the steering wheel using plastic elements that are located at the bottom of the basket.
  • 27. Install the bell on the steering wheel using the bolt that comes with it.
  • 28. We fix the rear-view mirror on the steering wheel.
  • 29. The brake handle is additionally tightened with a 4 mm hexagon.
  • 30. Screw the seat onto the seatpost. We fix the pin in the frame with a bolt.
  • 31. Install the protection on the chain using bolts 38.
  • 32. Install the pedals, left and right. in the direction of travel. Please note that the pedals have different threads.
  • 33. Clamp the additional wheels.
  • 34. Install the rear reflector on the bolt that comes with it.
  • 35. Install reflectors on the wheels. We fix them by putting them on the knitting needles and clamping them until they click.
  • 36. We install decorative plastic rims on the wheels. To do this, squeeze out the middle and push them into the wheel. Insert the decor of the handles into the holes on the handles.
READ  How to assemble the rear hub of a regular bike

We work with the inner space of the bushing

After the axle has been removed, you need to carefully inspect it. As a rule, this part of a bicycle wears out very rarely, but in any case, you will need to thoroughly wipe it off from dirt and dust. This is done with a dry cloth, but in some cases (if heavily soiled) you can use gasoline. So, we wipe the left cone and examine the right one for fastening strength. Only after the axle walls are completely dry (if gasoline was used for processing), can new grease be applied to it.

Note: in no case should you use chain lubricant or some other lubricant for the rear hub of the bicycle. you will need to purchase a special tool. Bearings are often used for bearings. this lubricant will be the most suitable. Too thick a layer of grease should not be applied. during the operation of the bike, it will be squeezed out and actively absorb dirt, which leads to rapid wear of the part.

How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub

Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with a snagged sleeve. Otherwise, the chances of assembling the wheel correctly and quickly are unlikely to work. this can only be done by a person who is already experienced in servicing bicycles.

Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:

  • Remove the cassette from the axle using a whip and a puller.
  • Opening the retaining ring.
  • We remove all bearings and washers. Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeve. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
  • We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
  • We take out the axle. it does not understand.
  • We clean the body of the rear hub of the bicycle from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
  • When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
  • The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. It is not necessary to apply great efforts to tighten, as this can result in a problem of free wheel rotation.

Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account in the process of work:

  • First, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. over, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
  • Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing the washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order, if this moment is overlooked, the assembly of the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into a real torment.
  • Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, its axis will begin to give in. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small and easy to lose. We remove each bearing with a knitting needle or tweezers, carefully wipe it with a cloth soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and put it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if there are any, then the part must be replaced.

Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will not be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many kulibins, in order not to lose small bearings, use a magnet. in no case should this be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that the hub will soon become unusable can be predicted with confidence.

It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then you will have to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing, iron dust can be observed near the axle. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.

Bicycle Rear Hub Maintenance

If you ignore the need for periodic maintenance of the rear hub of a bicycle, then the life of the iron friend can be greatly reduced. Experienced cyclists know what signs will indicate to disassemble / lubricate / reassemble the rear hub immediately. This process is not difficult, but you need to do everything in a certain sequence.

When to Service the Rear Hub

To ensure that the bike parts are always in perfect technical condition, they must be regularly serviced. If we consider the rear hub of a bicycle, then for it you will need:

  • periodically tighten the body;
  • regularly change the bearing balls;
  • at the next disassembly, lubricate all internal parts of the case;
  • adjust the brake hub from time to time.

Dismantling the rear wheel itself is as easy as shelling pears, but the process of removing and disassembling / assembling the rear bicycle hub is much more difficult. And nevertheless, without such regular maintenance of the part in question, it may soon need to be overhauled or replaced.

Signs that indicate an urgent need for service on the rear bicycle hub:

RoyalBaby Kids Bike Boys 16 inch with Training Wheels

  • when driving, there is a strong wheel play;
  • the crunch of bearings is clearly audible (this means that they are simply worn out);
  • on the go, the bike body rattles and staggers;
  • rolling dynamics is bad.

It is worth knowing some of the features of eliminating a particular symptom:

  • If the rear hub casing is spinning, its looseness, then this can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
  • If the movement of the rear wheel is difficult, then it may be necessary to loosen the retaining nut a little. most likely, too much force was applied when tightening it.
  • If extraneous sounds appear when the bike is moving and the roll-forward deteriorates, you will need to replace the bearings or completely lubricate the rear hub housing.

How to carry out the installation correctly

After carrying out the above work, you need to assemble the bushing to its original position. This is done in the following sequence: right bearings. wheel axle. cone. left bearings. stopper. washers and rivets. lock nut.

It is almost always necessary to adjust the rear hub of a bicycle after assembling. This is done only on the left side. first, the lock nut is slightly loosened with a 15 mm wrench, then it is tightened to the stop, but the cone must be held in a fixed position.

Using the described method, you can completely get rid of the backlash of the axis, at least. to reduce it to a minimum. Most likely, you will have to carry out the same operation more than once, but you need to achieve synchronous movement of the axle and wheel.

Note: slight cranking is quite acceptable, but tightening the lock nut too tight can lead to difficulty in movement.

This completes the maintenance of the rear bike sleeve. It will be necessary to check the quality of work. test the iron friend at different speeds, determine if there is a backlash, how tightly all the details are fixed, if there are any extraneous sounds. If something does not suit you, then the process of disassembling / assembling the rear hub will need to be repeated.

Maintaining the rear hub of a bike is not a daunting task. even a beginner can handle the job. But if you cannot disassemble the bushing on your own, then you need to contact a specialist. with strong pressure on the part, it can be damaged, which will require a complete replacement.

Installing the rear wheel

To carry out the installation correctly, assemble everything in place should be clearly in the reverse order.

  • Place the chain on the smallest sprocket, insert the wheel onto the frame mount. In this case, it is important to make sure that the axle is fully inserted into the grooves of the frame.

After the installation process, it is advisable to check the correctness of the actions performed by means of a short test drive to see how your bike will behave on the road after the updates.

Maintenance and diagnostics of the rear wheel is a mandatory procedure to maintain the health of the mechanisms.

Friends! Probably, this is not exactly the Twentysix format, but I decided to post this small guide from the magazine here, so that everyone has the opportunity to evaluate and discuss the format of the permanent Workshop column. Also because, in the near future, we will try to carry out import substitution in relation to this heading by one of the domestic bicycle workshops.

READ  How to fix a broken bike chain

So, the motto of the article: Self-matching will certainly make you related to the bike. From you. skill and patience. From Ryder. step by step instructions.

To assemble a wheel (with a camera), we need: a wheel centering machine, an umbrella gauge, a vernier caliper, a hammer, a blunt punch, a screwdriver, a folding rule, a suitable spoke wrench of approximately 3.2 mm for standard square nipples.

First, we measure the effective diameter of the ERD rim: carefully measure the inner diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rim wall. We will need this figure to calculate the length of the spokes.

Now we will measure the diameter (circumference) of the location (centers) of the spoke holes of the hub. Please note that the diameter of this circle can be different for each flange. And in most cases, the front and rear hubs differ in this indicator.

We issue a passport for each sleeve. We enter into it the diameters of the location of the spoke holes. Then we measure the length of the hub axle (in this case, 142 mm). Divide this number in half and mark the middle of the sleeve. Now, having positioned the sleeve on the sheet according to the figure, we measure the distance from its middle to each of the flanges (FD) using a vernier caliper. In our case, these are 33 and 20 mm. Note that due to the mounting of the brake rotor, the front hubs are also asymmetrical.

To calculate the length of the knitting needles, we recommend using one of the online calculators. For example, the spoke length calculator on the DT Swiss website. Translation of terms for the calculator: Front wheel. front wheel; Rear wheel. rear wheel; Rim Diameter / ERD. type of rim and / or ERD (see above); Hub. bushing; Pitch circle diameter. PCD (see above); Flange distance. FD (see above); Ø of spoke hole. diameter of the spoke hole; No. of spokes. the number of spokes; No. of intersections. the number of intersections (type of spacing, in this case. three); Nipple. nipple type; Spoke length (precise). the exact length of the spoke; rounded. rounded length.

We pass the first spoke through any spoke hole in the hub flange from the inside from the rotor side and fix the spoke with a nipple in the second spoke hole of the rim from the hole for the camera nipple (bottom photo).

Next, we pass seven more spokes into every second hole in the flange, also from the inside of the sleeve. Attention: under no circumstances use spokes of different lengths on one side of the wheel.!

Having passed the spoke through the hole in the hub flange (step 6), insert its end into the hole in the rim, leaving three free holes between the adjacent spokes. We fix with nipples. That is, in every fourth hole there must be a spoke.

Now we bring the spokes to their working position: while holding the rim with one hand, we rotate the sleeve in the opposite direction of movement (see photo). Spokes must enter the rim at an obtuse angle.

Finishing the rotor side lacing. To do this, thread the next eight spokes through the remaining holes of the same sleeve flange from the opposite (outer) side.

Turning the loose knitting needle in the direction of rotation of the sleeve (see step 9), draw it behind the two nearest fixed knitting needles and in front of the third. Then, as shown in the photo, we thread this spoke into the middle of the three free holes on the rim and fix it with a nipple. We do the same with all the other knitting needles.

The thickened (end) part of the spoke nipples has splines. By inserting a screwdriver or a socket wrench for the spokes into the slot (see photo), screw the nipple onto the spoke for two or three turns, without using force.

Now we pass the first pin-reference (not to be confused with the leading ones) through the hole of the second flange from the inside. Before that, we turn the wheel so that the tire nipple is at the top point. Focusing on the rim hole closest to the nipple in the direction of travel of the bicycle (on the left), we find the corresponding hole on the hub flange, also located in the direction of travel (see photo). We fix the knitting needle in this position. So opposite the bus nipple there will be no spokes intersection that interferes with the connection of the pump.

Insert the next spoke into the nearest hole in the flange to the left of the reference spoke. We pass this knitting needle into the hole from the outside, so that its head looks outward from the sleeve.

The remaining seven spokes are threaded into every second hole in the flange (do not insert into the rim yet). At the same time, we make sure that the needle does not fall into the honey triangle with the needles of the other side, but remains free. We throw the third spoke to the right of the reference spoke through it from the outside and insert it into the nearest free hole from the tire nipple to the left (principle from behind, from behind, from the front, fasten it). The rest of the spokes are sequentially inserted into every fourth hole of the rim so that they do not intersect with other spokes, and secure with nipples.

The remaining eight spokes are threaded in the same sequence from the inside of the flange into the free holes. Then they will need to be inserted into the free holes of the rim and secured.

Since all the other spokes are already secured, there is little room to maneuver. Therefore, we take each of the last spokes with both hands and insert into the corresponding hole of the rim, observing the scheme of three intersections at the back, back, front and the same angles of intersection of the spokes.

Now that we have a full umbrella formed, we screw the nipples deeper onto each spoke until the entire thread is out of sight. but no further!

Now we fix the wheel in the centering (straightening) machine. So that the line for centering the wheel does not deviate to one side, we check that it is firmly fixed in the machine fork mountings. Then, starting from the tire nipple, tighten all the short spokes of the wheel one full turn. On the front wheel, this will be the left side in the direction of travel of the bike, and on the rear wheel, this will be the right side (transmission side). Then move on to the spokes on the opposite side.

It is necessary to exclude friction of the spoke heads on the holes when the spokes vibrate. To do this, with careful blows using a hammer and a blunt punch, align the head of each spoke with the flange surface.

Tighten the knitting needles for about a couple of turns in the sequence indicated above (first on the short side, then on the side of the long knitting needles). We remove the wheel from the machine and install the umbrella gauge on the end of the wheel hub from the side of the short spokes and on the rim on both sides. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the length of the umbrella axis in such a way as to eliminate the gaps at these three points (rim sides on the right and left, the end of the sleeve). Then we apply an umbrella gauge on the opposite side of the wheel (with long spokes).

If the rim is not equidistant from the hub, tighten all the spoke nipples on the corresponding side of the flange half a turn. The adjustment should always be directed towards the long spokes. We check the result of the broach by re-installing the umbrella gauge on the wheel and aligning it.

We bring together both probes of the wheel straightener and bring them to the rim until one of the probes starts to cling to the rim. To straighten the ellipse, the nipples are always tightened only a quarter of a turn. Always the same number of knitting needles is pulled up on the left and right.

Mark the area of ​​radial beating with white tape. Tighten the spokes (clockwise to the outside of the rim) a quarter turn. And, if the beating section covers only five spokes, we slightly tighten the sixth too, so as not to make an eight.

The figure eight is indicated by the lateral beating of the rim on the machine probe. To straighten it, slightly loosen the nipples on the beating side and tighten the nipples on the opposite side until the rim stops scratching the probe.

Excessive tension can damage both the hub and the rim. To check the tension, compress the two crossed knitting needles with medium force. The intersection point must not move more than one centimeter.

After all broaches, the concentricity of the wheel must be checked again. We will straighten if necessary. Just make sure not to overtighten the knitting needles.

To prevent the appearance of eights and ellipses, the wheel should be crimped after lacing. We install the wheel on a solid stand and carefully lean on it with our weight, after which we again check it for concentricity and runout.

Rear axle

The rear axle of a bicycle is a threaded rod rigidly fixed in dropouts, which does not transmit torque, but at the same time carries the main load when the bicycle is moving. It is usually made of steel, titanium or aluminum alloy and is an integral part of the bushing.

Depending on the type of attachment, the axles can be hollow or solid. The hollow ones are used in conjunction with eccentric braces to facilitate wheel mounting and dismounting. Such axles have greater rigidity and less weight.

Another way to fix the wheel is to fix its axle in the frame stays with special nuts. For a frame with horizontal dropouts, an axle with nuts is more suitable due to a more reliable and durable wheel attachment.

Some mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes use thru axles with a threaded end. These axles are part of the frame design and are usually supplied with it.

The thickness of the rear axle depends on the type of bike, and its length is determined by the distance between the dropouts of the frame stays. In some models of bushings, the diameter can be changed using special adapters. The following axes are usually used (the first number is the diameter, and the second is the length):

  • 10 x 135 mm. used in most modern bicycles;
  • 10 x 130 mm. for road bikes;
  • 12x150mm. bike axles for downhill and free ride;
  • 10 × 170 mm. such axles are placed on fat bikes;
  • 10 x 120mm. Suitable for speed track bike.

On bicycles for extreme sports of the High End level, special axles of increased thickness can be used, which have increased strength.

What are the rear hubs for bicycles?

Generally there is a wide variety of rear hubs for mountain bikes. Therefore, if for any reason you want to replace the rear hub on your bike or even the entire rear wheel assembly, be very careful. At first, out of inexperience, I bought a wheel assembly with a completely different hub, in the hope that it would fit. But it did not fit =)) Therefore, when replacing the hub, it is better to take the one that was on your bike initially. And yet.

  • Count the number of spokes on the rim of your wheel and the number of holes on the hub. There are 32, 36 on mountain bikes.
  • Count the number of sprockets (gears) that should be on your rear wheel. If there are 8-9 sprockets, then the cassette is put on a drum (ratchet). If there are 7 sprockets, then this is probably an even cheaper option, when sprockets (with a built-in ratchet) are screwed onto the bushing by thread.
  • Look at the type of brakes on your bike. If the brakes are disc brakes, there must be a suitable place on the hub for mounting the disc.
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    Removing the sleeve

    We remove the cassette with stars using a special puller, a key and a whip. First, we insert the puller into the nut, then insert the key into it, put on the whip on the large asterisk, hold the asterisks with it, and unscrew the nut. Now that the nut is unscrewed, you can easily reach the cassette with stars.

    Before disassembling the hub, the tension on the spokes should be loosened so that it can easily be pulled out of the engagement. When parsing this part, it is better to decompose all of its components in order, so that later you can precisely put everything in place. If necessary, you can replace the bearings, which, unlike metal components, are the first to fail. Timely service of the bushing will ensure its long service life, so do not neglect cleaning and lubricating the mechanism parts.

    In the reverse order, the knitting needles are tightened exactly as far as they have been loosened, it is important not to overtighten them, but the parts must be firmly fixed. The cassette is put on the sleeve and tightened with a whip.

    After all the procedures performed, due to which the dismantling of the wheel and its parts took place, you need to know how to assemble the rear wheel of the bike back.

    Broken or bent axis

    Another common problem is axle curvature or violation of its integrity, caused by low-quality materials used in their manufacture, or by the design features of the bushing itself. Such breakdowns are mainly characteristic of ratchet bushings, since their support bearings are too far from the axle attachment point in the dropouts of the frame feathers. The result is too large a lever, and when the load increases, the axle becomes unusable.

    Types of bicycle hubs and their components

    Bushing body

    Typically, the hub body is the wheel hub. It has flanges on which the spokes are attached, and due to the presence of a set of sprockets on the rear wheel, the spokes have a slightly shorter length on one side. In bushings with loose bearings, the inner surface has tracks along which the balls move.

    Assembling a bicycle wheel

    The bike is versatile, very pleasant to use, it is able not only to raise the mood from walks, but also to have a beneficial effect on the body. But he also requires some attention. And in order for it to serve longer, it is important to learn some actions on your own, so that you can solve some problems yourself.

    When a person faces the problem of re-fitting, or replacing the camera, the skill of independent parsing and removal of the wheel will come in handy. You can, of course, contact a specialist who can repair a bicycle wheel, but, firstly, it takes too long, and secondly, you will have to pay money for it. But all work on replacing parts, disassembling and assembling them can be done independently. It will be not only more profitable, but also in quality, most often, practically does not differ.

    Disassembly

    Bicycle wheels should be disassembled at regular intervals over several months. It is important to do this for self-service, which will allow you to identify a possible breakdown in advance, replace parts in a timely manner and avoid unexpected failure of this vehicle. Most often, it is the bicycle hub that is the part that needs to be checked regularly for performance. There are two types of them, according to which their analysis will differ:

    Disassembling a wheel removed from a bicycle begins with a procedure in which the spokes are somewhat weakened. This requires a nipple wrench. The tape of the same name is removed from the rim groove, then the nipples are unscrewed, and the spokes are removed completely. The assembly of the wheel should take place in stages:

    • The spokes (¼ part) are inserted so that their heads are outside the wheel. In this case, one hole should be passed. It is important to remember that if the flange is countersunk on one side, then the spoke is installed in a plane along its surface.
    • The threaded ring at the spoke should be passed through the rim hole. All of them are slightly offset from the rim to the sides. The needles are inserted through every three holes. After assembly, you can see that the inner knitting needles are assembled with their heads outward. they are the ones that make up a kind of basis.
    • The arrangement of some of the spokes on the wheels is always slightly different. At the back, it must cross the three inner spokes. For the first time, crossing occurs at the flange, and then twice more on the way to the rim. In the case of the front wheel, the outer spoke will cross the two inner.

    Perepitsovka

    Wheels play a huge role, so you should pay enough attention to them. Experts believe that a cheap bike, if you replace its wheels with better ones, will be much better than expensive and well-known brands.

    In any case, re-fitting is a very useful skill, since in many repair services all the necessary actions are not performed. The quality of service in this case decreases significantly.

    Some special tools can be used at this stage:

    • Spoke key;
    • Zontometer;
    • Wheel straightening machine;
    • Needle tension gauge.

    Of course, it is not easy to find them for everyone, but perhaps someone will still have one or another detail. You can safely do without them, although they can significantly speed up all the work.

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    So, the following important stages can be distinguished:

    • It is recommended to pre-lubricate the thread of the spokes together with the rim, as this will help to tighten them more tightly;
    • On the rear wheel, work begins only on the threaded side of the hub. Having inserted nine spokes into the flange, you need to find the hole that will be closest to the valve, insert a spoke into it. It will be key;
    • Four holes are counted from it clockwise, then the spoke is inserted, the nipple is twisted. Other knitting needles (7 pieces) are attached in the same way;
    • We turn the wheel with the left side, after which nine spokes should be connected to the rim in the left outer flange;
    • There should be no intersection between the key and the tenth;
    • The spoke heads are on the outside, especially if they are located on the rear wheel;
    • The needles, which are considered tensioning, or rather, their heads will be located inside. One of them should be threaded through the flange hole. The sleeve is twisted, while the other spokes must be given a tangential direction relative to the flange. The first two knitting needles from above, the tensioner passes at the top, and under the third, it should go inward;
    • When assembling, the nipples only need to be tightened slightly. Otherwise, the knitting needles will not be able to reach the holes;
    • It is better to make a uniform tension from the location of the key spoke. It is very important that the nipple is only screwed in one turn. It is allowed to make one or two more if the spoke remains too weak. If, gradually, as the tightening progresses, it becomes clear that the nipples are no longer twisting, then it will be necessary to return, unwind them all again and then tighten each one only half a turn. When the work is done, in addition, it will be possible to fit any knitting needle harder without any problems.

    Throughout the work, it is important to monitor compliance with the following points:

    • The figured part of the sleeve must be turned to the worker;
    • To the right of the person there will be a spoke, which is near the valve hole;
    • The rim is connected on the right side of the flange with both spokes;
    • Three holes left unoccupied.

    The wheel umbrella must always be located in a plane that extends between the rear hub and the tips at least half the distance. If this is not observed, the bike will constantly try to turn to the side. If the umbrella is correct, then the distance from the brake pads to the rim will be equal when the wheel is straight and when it is turned.

    Removing the wheel

    Removing the front wheel is much easier and more convenient than the rear! This is what many people say, who are not very familiar with the structure of some bicycle models. So, in order to remove the wheels, you must first determine the type of brake device. The disc type of the brake device does not require any additional work, but if a rim system is present on the bike, then it should be released. This is usually done by simply squeezing on both sides of the pads and pulling the arc out of them.

      Further actions can be divided into stages:

  • Installing the bike on the handlebar and saddle by simply flipping the structure upside down. over, if the disc brakes are hydraulic, then the work should be done quickly, otherwise air will enter the hydraulic line and additional pumping will be required to get rid of it.
  • At this stage, it is important to understand how the wheel is fastened. There are two types in total: a lever and a nut. In the first case, it is also called an eccentric. It is easy to unscrew it without tools, just pull it down. With a wrench mounting method, you should pick up two wrenches and put them on the nuts on both sides of the wheel. One of them remains motionless, the second moves, unscrewing it.
  • Pull the wheel up.
  • The rear wheel is removed in the same way, despite the seeming complexity.

    Wheel installation

    Observing the order that will be the reverse of removal, the wheel can just as easily be assembled. And if everything is clear with the front wheel, then when installing the rear wheel, it is important to ensure that the chain is fully and correctly put on the teeth of the sprocket.

    If everything is done correctly, but the wheel still does not fit into the bosom, then it is worth inspecting it and the bike. It is possible that the fork is bent, or there is a figure eight bending the metal disc. Then all problems must be eliminated and only after that proceed to installation.

    Final tension

    At the last stage, you should deal with the shrinkage of the knitting needles. You can put pressure on them, taking the wheel in your hands, in those places where they intersect. This should be done over the entire surface. After the entire procedure, you should additionally carry out the adjustment and re-shrink. This sequence must be repeated until the crackling accompanying the action stops.

    When balancing is complete, it is important to inspect the wheel. If the spokes protrude above the rim, they must be cut off. Further, excess grease is removed and the wheel is completely ready for installation.

    In general, parsing, repositioning and assembling a wheel on a bicycle is not so difficult to repeat on your own. Of course, for a beginner it will be somewhat more difficult, however, having tried several times, the next time this instruction may not be needed.