Bicycle hubs and rear wheel axle
When choosing a bike, many novice cyclists often look at the rear derailleur, frame, presence or absence of a shock absorber. At the same time, insufficient attention is paid to such an important component as the wheel hub.
how to replace bearing on any bike
Broken or bent axis
Another common problem is axle curvature or violation of its integrity, caused by low-quality materials used in their manufacture, or by the design features of the bushing itself. Such breakdowns are mainly characteristic of ratchet bushings, since their support bearings are too far from the axle attachment point in the dropouts of the frame feathers. The result is too large a lever, and when the load increases, the axle becomes unusable.
Types of bicycle hubs and their components
Typically, the hub body is the wheel hub. It has flanges on which the spokes are attached, and due to the presence of a set of sprockets on the rear wheel, the spokes have a slightly shorter length on one side. In bushings with loose bearings, the inner surface has tracks along which the balls move.
The rear axle of a bicycle is a threaded rod rigidly fixed in dropouts, which does not transmit torque, but at the same time carries the main load when the bicycle is moving. It is usually made of steel, titanium or aluminum alloy and is an integral part of the bushing.
Depending on the type of attachment, the axles can be hollow or solid. The hollow ones are used in conjunction with eccentric braces to facilitate wheel mounting and dismounting. Such axles have greater rigidity and less weight.
Another way to fix the wheel is to fix its axle in the frame stays with special nuts. For a frame with horizontal dropouts, an axle with nuts is more suitable due to a more reliable and durable wheel attachment.
Some mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes use thru axles with a threaded end. These axles are part of the frame design and are usually supplied with it.
The thickness of the rear axle depends on the type of bike, and its length is determined by the distance between the dropouts of the frame stays. In some models of bushings, the diameter can be changed using special adapters. The following axes are usually used (the first number is the diameter, and the second is the length):
- 10×135 mm. used in most modern bicycles;
- 10x130mm. Mounts on road bikes;
- 12x150mm. bike axles for downhill and free ride;
- 10×170 mm. such axles are installed on fat bikes;
- 10x120mm. Suitable for speed track bike.
On bicycles for extreme sports of the High End level, special axles of increased thickness can be used, which have increased strength.
The most common problems and how to fix them
If the bushing locknuts are not tightened sufficiently, then during the rotation of the wheel, the rear axle beats against the bearings. As a result, cavities appear on the tracks of the cones, and the balls are deformed. If the backlash is not eliminated in time, then chips will form on the cones and the inner surface of the sleeve. In especially advanced cases, the balls may even jump out of the tracks and begin to rotate inside the hub, grinding the axle and destroying the hub, then you will have to replace the entire unit and re-spoke the wheel.
To avoid backlash, the cones must be correctly adjusted. To do this, gradually tighten the flare nut, trying to find a state in which the wheel rotates freely without beating. When the correct position is found, lock the cone with the locknut. When locking the cone, the axle often starts to rotate, and the correct position is lost, so you can clamp the right end of the axle in a vice.
Disassembly and maintenance of the rear hub
The rear wheel mechanism of a bicycle requires periodic maintenance and repair, and often inexperienced cyclists have problems disassembling and assembling it. However, this is a fairly simple operation, and after a little practice it becomes more difficult. The main thing is to choose the right tool and be patient. You should also be very careful, otherwise a small part or ball rolling somewhere can cause serious problems, and it will be impossible to assemble the mechanism correctly. If you are not sure of your actions, then you can even record the process on video, so that during reassembly it is clear where this or that element should be installed.
All conventional bushings are designed to be disassembled from the side opposite to the sprockets, that is, to the left. Consider the sequence of actions when disassembling a product on bulk bearings, since this design is the most common:
- First you need to unscrew the nuts and disconnect the wheel from the frame. With eccentric clamps, you don’t even need tools. After the wheel is removed, you can start disassembling.
- Now you need to remove the sprockets, otherwise it will be impossible to get full access to the inside of the bushing. If the wheel has a cassette, then you will need a tool called a whip and a puller. The whip is thrown over the large sprocket and holds it, and the puller is inserted into the cassette and rotated counterclockwise. After dismantling the cassette, you need to remove the brake disc from the left side of the hub (if disc brakes are installed).
- To disassemble the ratchet wheel, you need a puller and a wrench with good leverage. You have to put in quite a lot of effort, because the ratchet twisted all the time you were cycling. The ratchet also needs to be unscrewed counterclockwise.
- For further work, you need two keys. A special cone wrench has a small thickness, it holds the bushing cone, and with the second wrench you need to unlock the left nut that fixes this cone. The unlocked nut can be unscrewed, and now the rear axle of the bicycle can be easily removed from the hub, giving access to the bearings and the inner surface of the wheel hub.
- The balls can be covered with metal anthers. Both must be carefully removed and folded into some kind of box. That’s all, the sleeve is disassembled, now you can start maintenance and repair.
The scheme for disassembling the sleeve on industrial bearings is even simpler, a certain difficulty is only removing the cassettes with balls, since they are pressed quite tightly into the hub. The cartridge will have to be removed with a special tool or knocked out with hammer blows along the axis, but this must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the flange.
Sometimes you have to disassemble the drum itself, on which the cassette with stars is attached. In this case, a special slotted puller is required. But such a need arises extremely rarely, and in this case it is still better to contact the workshop.
Maintenance of the rear bushings consists of removing old grease, cleaning parts from dirt, checking their integrity and applying new grease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse not only the bearings and the inner surface of the hub, but also the threads on the nuts and axles, since sand is often packed into it. When twisted, it collects on the surface of the cone, can cause crunching and even damage to the balls. For this, gasoline, thinner or special detergents are usually used. After cleaning, apply grease to all moving parts.
The assembly of the bushing is carried out in the reverse order. If the details are not lost, then everything will go without any difficulty.
When installing a wheel in the dropouts, you should pay attention to one important point: the axle with the hub should fit into them quite tightly. If a gap develops, insert the spacer washers. Otherwise, the feathers will contract and bend when the wheel is locked, which can lead to permanent stresses in the feathers and, ultimately, to the destruction of the structure.
The rear hub of a bicycle includes the following structural elements:
Bicycle rear hub: device and assembly instructions
The rear hub of a bicycle must always be in good condition, because it is it that determines the smooth running of a two-wheeled vehicle. According to many cyclists, the ride quality of a bike depends largely on the type and mechanical performance of the frame. However, in practice, the defining moment here is the state of the undercarriage. bushings, carriages, chains, and other systems.
According to compatibility with different types of brake systems, there are several distinct types of rear hubs:
- for disc brakes;
- for roller brakes;
- for rim brakes.
Of course, the more complex rear hub of a bicycle, designed to be connected to a disc brake system, can easily be used when assembling a wheel with rim brakes, but not vice versa.
In the overwhelming majority, the rear bushings are asymmetric, since a cassette or a rear sprocket should be located on the right side of the mechanism. Compared to the left flange, the right flange is closer to the center of the axis. As a result, on the right side of the spoke is slightly shorter.
There is a special type of planetary bushings. The internal structure of such products contains a mechanism for shifting gears. Only one star is installed on such systems. The bushings of this plan can be operated without installing a chain tensioner.
How to Assemble the Rear Bicycle Hub?
When assembling the mechanism, you need to take into account the fact that the left and right ends of the axis have some differences. The right cone is firmly connected to the axle, additionally reinforced with a lock nut and therefore never dismantled. The system is adjusted by changing the position of the left cone.
Trying to figure out how to assemble the rear hub of a bike, the main thing is. do not confuse the side on which the axle with the right taper is to be installed. It is much easier to make a mistake here than in the case of a front wheel assembly, where both sides of the mechanism look identical.
To avoid trouble by connecting the elements of the rear hub into a single whole during installation, the following sequence of actions will allow:
- To begin with, the bushing body, ratchets and the surface of the cups for mounting the system are cleaned of dirt, remnants of old grease, after which a new grease base with a thick consistency is applied.
- Using tweezers, the balls of the bearings are placed in the right place and pressed into a layer of grease, the amount of which should be sufficient so that the balls do not roll back.
- On the ratchet side, an axle with a right-hand taper is installed. The operation is carried out carefully, as there is a high risk of pushing the bearing balls out of the bowl.
- Finally, the left cone is screwed onto the axle almost to the stop, but not tightened. Washers are screwed on in the correct sequence, after which the locknuts are attached.
On this, the rear hub is considered to be practically assembled. The only moment is the installation of rubber boots. However, it is advisable to do this only after the final adjustment of the chassis.
These are specific annular protrusions that are contained on the rear hub body. This element is used to connect with the spokes of the wheel. Flanges contain special holes where spokes are inserted when dialing.
The main requirement for flanges is a high strength index. Based on the insignificant size of the part, it is enough to just imagine how much increased loads fall on its share. After all, a third of the structure of the bicycle, together with the cyclist, is located precisely above the area where the rear flanges are located.
Having studied the internal and external structure of the rear hub of the bicycle, it is recommended to pay attention to the wide range of standard sizes of this system. The presence of some differences in parameters is due to the use of hubs on various types of bicycles:
- track models. 10×120 mm;
- road bikes. 10×130 mm;
- the bulk of common mountain models. 10×135 mm;
- downhill bicycles. 12×135 mm;
- professional models of the “cross-country” class. 12×142 mm;
- models of bicycles for freestyle, extreme sports. 12×150 mm;
- BMX bikes. 14×110 mm.
The rear hub of the bicycle must be equipped with bearings with a dust cover. Only in this case it will be possible to forget about their maintenance and replacement, having driven more than 10,000 km on the bike. Frankly low-quality bearings will make you endure unpleasant sounds and suffer from wheel play after the first ride in rainy weather, not to mention winter. Reliable dirt protection is represented by various seals that prevent contact of the lubricant with the external environment.
Currently, there are bulk and industrial bearings for rear bushings. The difference is that the play in the wheel can be eliminated by performing the usual adjustment of the bulk bearings. If there is a similar problem in the case of industrial bearings, most likely they will have to be replaced. Therefore, the rear wheel hub of the bicycle should be selected based on the type and reliability of the bearings.
The main parameter of the rear hub axle is its length. To select the hub according to the axle length, you just need to measure the distance between the opposite outer nuts on the corresponding mountings of the bicycle frame.
It consists in the care of the bearings included in the composition. cleaning, lubricating, adjusting.
In order for these bike parts to serve for a long time, the following rules must be followed:
- sort out the rear sleeve if moisture gets on it;
- to do this the more often, the more intensively the bike is used: for a city bike, it is enough to perform actions once a season, as well as for a road bike, and for a mountain bike. twice, or even three times, more often;
- diagnose when extraneous sounds are detected or backlash appears; carry out periodic lubrication.
- Correct fit on a mountain bike
- The secret to the popularity of v brake brakes
- Adjusting hydraulic disc brakes
What bushings does the industry produce?
- the material used for the manufacture, therefore, the strength;
- manufacturing method.
Since the bike has two wheels, there are two bushings. the front one, which allows the wheel to rotate freely, and the rear one, in addition to the function performed by the front one, the rear one is responsible for rolling the bike, i.e. its efficient ride without any applied load.
The rear design can be of several modifications:
- there is no free play. rear no brake;
- without a brake, but with a free wheel;
- rear bicycle hub with foot brake, freewheel device.
A feature of the latter device is that in order to stop the bike, it is necessary to rotate the pedals in the opposite direction. Inside this device, there is a brake mechanism, which consists of a drum and pads, driven by a star rotating in the opposite direction.
A type of drum is a worm-gear rear bicycle hub, usually installed on single-speed road bikes. Despite the low efficiency, which, without a doubt, is a minus, the device has a huge resource, which negates the mentioned minus.
Speed bikes have non-brake rear hubs that are lighter than braking, smaller and simpler in design. Free play prevents the pedals from rotating while the bike is in motion.
Disassembly and assembly
The following instructions apply to most cassette rear hubs, allowing you to quickly and competently handle assembly and disassembly of the rear bicycle hub.
The arrangement of these parts from different manufacturers is identical. There are only minor differences that do not affect the disassembly process.
Before starting the repair, it is necessary to clean the workplace so that there is no dust, threads and hairs left on it that can spoil the part.
Disassembly is considered on the example of Hyperglide.
How to properly remove the axle and sprockets
To disassemble the bicycle rear wheel hub, you need to pull out the cassette by removing the retaining ring. Cassettes are usually riveted. Some have sprockets of two sizes, therefore, having removed them, you must not break the order.
Sprockets must be cleaned using kerosene, methyl ethyl ketone or acetone.
It is also recommended (to remove burrs) by rubbing them with a wire brush. The gaskets are wiped and put back in place.
The next step is to remove the axle. To do this, you need to remove everything that is at the end of the axle opposite to the sprockets, pulling it out a distance sufficient to remove the bearings.
Next, carefully lift the seal from the side opposite to the rear bushing, working around the circumference with the lever. It is pushed out slightly, without using force, trying (as far as possible) to pull it out evenly.
After removing the seal, two seats become visible on the inner ring of the bearing.
In the price segment, the leading position belongs to the manufacturer Shimano, whose parts are distinguished by the fact that, thanks to thrust radial rolling bearings, the function of their adjustment and repair becomes available.
Their hallmark is the ability to attach spokes without flanges. The best quality, according to a large number of cyclists, is in this Deore LX brand. Alivio is considered a good option.
Noteworthy are the products of the Taiwanese company Novatec, which are confidently conquering the market.
Installation of bearings
Easier to install from the ratchet side.
Depending on the manufacturing process, the bushings are divided into:
- cast. the most durable.
The latter are of great weight. They are placed on wheels with radially spaced spokes to increase radial loads.
In order to reduce weight on bicycles belonging to the high class, rear hubs with hollow axles of a larger diameter and increased rigidity are installed.
On road bridges and mountain hikes, they are installed with collapsible bearings, which are distinguished by their increased efficiency. It is not difficult to install them, and adjustment is not required.
The most common nowadays are bicycle rear hubs equipped with tapered angular contact rolling bearings.
Disassembling the rear hub of a speed bike to adjust is not as difficult as it sounds. In order for these parts to last longer, they must be lubricated, cleaned, adjusted, and replaced in a timely manner.
Types and arrangement of the rear / front hub of a mountain bike
In the MTB class, only two types of sleeve mechanisms are common: axle-cone-ball bearing and axle-industrial bearing. It is clear from the names of the classes that the difference between them lies in the structure of the supports.
How to disassemble
Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:
- Disc brake rotor. Not in all cases can be dismantled. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front bushing it is impossible to do without removing the rotor.
- Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to remove, otherwise you cannot reach the second cone, and the axle cannot be removed. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.
When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. In this case, it is important to observe two rules:
- Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
- You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is no disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the cone nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or collisions with an obstacle, which is why the free wheeling of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, such a scheme maintains a balance and you can choose a gap without prejudice to the roll.
The deconstructing procedure is shown in the photographic material. A thin cone wrench adheres to a cone-nut, and with another wrench (for convenience, it is advisable to take a more massive tool) unscrew the locknut. After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, and the axle is removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.
Attention! When disassembling, note the order in which the components are located. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.
When dismantling the balls from the seats, it is important to separate them into two groups. Those on the right must be folded in one place, those on the left in another. Do not mix or confuse these groups with each other, otherwise, after assembling the perfect reel without backlash, you will not get.
Important! When removing the axle on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, mark the side of the non-rolled cone on the tire. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.
How to apply lubricant
The goal is to lubricate balls, cones and cups. This can be done as quickly and efficiently as possible using the following technology:
- Lubricate the cup with your finger.
- Put the balls into the cup using medical tweezers, observing the intended purpose of the groups sorted during disassembly.
- Apply a thin layer of lubricant over the balls.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for the second side.
- Put the boot on the locked cone located on the side of the cassette (relevant only for the rear bushings).
- Apply a thin layer of grease to the beveled surface of both cone nuts.
There should not be a lot of lubricant at the contact points. This statement is relevant only because excess grease is squeezed out through the anthers, and it intensively begins to collect dust. You can estimate the sufficient filling level from the photo. There are usually no problems with the installation of balls. They adhere well to the lubricant, which is already in the cup according to paragraph 1 of the technological instructions.
It is customary to lightly coat the thread on the axle and the ends of the nuts with a compound that was used to treat rubbing surfaces. This activity is designed to minimize oxidation of metals and the formation of rust at the interface of detachable parts.
How to sort out the rear hub of a speed bike
The word bulkhead in full is relevant only for tapered products. The maximum that can be done in a support on a slip is to clean and lubricate the bearings, and without removing them.
The repair principle for the front and rear cone nut bearings is the same, although the design differences are obvious. A set of sprockets is installed at the back; another design of the anther on the side of the cassette. However, the backbone is completely identical: that in the back, in the front, on both sides, one cone-nut and one row of balls, laid in bulk.
So, the subject of discussion is mountain bike rear cone service. It can be ratcheted, like on entry-class bikes like the Stels or Forward, or cassette like on mid to high-end bikes. By the way, in the material on how to choose a mountain bike. we have figured out in detail the differences between these two designs. There is also a recommendation on which design should be preferred.
How to lubricate
The ideal option is a Teflon compound. For example, Finish Line Premium Grease: very slippery and viscous. However, Teflon can be replaced with the usual Litol-24 or the consistency for the CV joints of the car.
What definitely doesn’t work is any liquid mixture:
- Bicycle chain maintenance compound.
- Car engine or transmission oil.
Cleaning and lubrication
It is necessary to clean the balls and cups in contact with them, cone-nuts, axle. In a sleeve with good dust protection, the lubricant is usually clean, so cleaning can be carried out without chemicals. with an ordinary clean rag. If dirt is present, use one of the degreasers we have recommended for cleaning the chain in the material, how to clean old bicycle chain grease at home.
In the technology of bulkheads on cones, three stages should be distinguished: disassembly, lubrication and assembly and adjustment. A tool is needed at every stage. Complete cassette hub kit shown on
Recommendation. If you plan to service the bike from A to Z yourself, then a suitcase with tools from X-Tools will be very useful. In particular, it has a chain squeeze and even a spare head. And this, by the way, is an indispensable device not only at home, but also on a hike. You can buy a set at a democratic price at ChainReactionCycles.
The plug is only needed for hydraulics. In the methodology describing how to adjust the hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle, we have already discussed the consequences of accidentally pressing the brake lever in the absence of a rotor in the hydraulic circuit. For a bushing mechanism with a ratchet, a whip is not needed, and the mandrel of the wrench is replaced with an adapter from the slots for an open-end or box wrench. Externally, the adapter sleeve looks like a mandrel for removing the cassette, which is present in the photo with the tool.
WE DO REPAIR OF THE CAR
One of the most difficult parts of a bicycle is the bottom bracket. What to do if on the way she let you down, and there is no one to ask for help? Everything is simple, and after reading the text written below, using the minimum number of tools, you can easily disassemble and repair the bicycle carriage.
To disassemble the carriage assembly, the first step is to dismantle the stars and the connecting rod system. We will not dwell on this in detail, since it is not so difficult, and there is plenty of information on this topic on the net.
For pleasure bicycles and inexpensive mountaineers, a standard version of the carriage is installed. The order of its disassembly is indicated below:
- First of all, you need to unscrew the lock nut on the left using a special key;
- After that, we remove the carriage cup on the same side, using a 16 key for this (note that the right-hand thread is cut on the left side, and the left-hand thread is similarly made on the right);
- If necessary, you will also need to unscrew the cup on the right. To do this, you need to use a key for 32;
- Now we take out the carriage assembly. It is best to immediately flush and, accordingly, clean the carriage tube, first of all, the thread;
- Next, we are engaged in flushing the parts of the carriage assembly with gasoline or kerosene, along the way we look at whether the bearings, cups and axles are intact. If necessary, you need to replace worn parts;
- The next step is the same operations, only in reverse order: we screw the cup to the right to the very end;
- Now you need to thoroughly grease everything with grease (lithol), put bearings on the axle, and insert it into place;
- Next, you need to screw in the cup on the left, until the axis stops rotating. And now the cup needs to be gradually released, until nothing interferes with the rotation of the axis, and it will be smooth. It is worth remembering that backlash is not allowed;
- The lock nut should now be tightened;
- We make a final check of the rotation and the absence of backlash. If this is necessary, then you need to repeat paragraphs 8-9.
HOW TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL?
- If your bike has rim brakes, the first step is to unfasten them. This is done as follows: you need to heap the levers to which the pads are attached, and raise the part that secures the cable.
- Now you should turn the bike over with the saddle down, so that it finds its support on the handlebars and saddle. If your bike is equipped with a headlight or bike computer, you should be careful not to damage them.
- Next, we will loosen the eccentric of the wheel holding the wheel on the frame.
- Take a position behind the bike. Now you need to slightly unbend the lever in the rear gear selector, pull out the rear wheel, which should rise up without much difficulty.
- All that remains is to remove the chain from the wheel sprockets. Now the wheel is disconnected.
How To Overhaul The Hub Of A Rear Bike Wheel
REAR WHEEL REPAIR: REMOVE THE PUNCH
To begin with, it should be said that repairing the rear wheel of a bicycle can also be associated with the elimination of the figure eight on the wheel or the filling of the wheel hub. However, since these are specific operations that require certain experience and tools, they deserve separate consideration, and will not be described in this text. Below we will tell you how to cope with a puncture of the rear wheel, since everyone can face this.
Before you start repairing a wheel, you need to dismantle it. The front wheel can be removed easily, but removing the rear wheel, for a beginner bike enthusiast, may not be such an easy task. Let’s take a closer look at how to dismantle the rear wheel.
WE CARRY OUT REPAIR OF THE REAR WHEEL BUSHING, CARRIAGE AND PUNCHED WHEEL
To repair a bicycle with your own hands, you must have certain skills and knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to repair the rear wheel hub of a bicycle, repair a bicycle carriage, and also tell you how to fix a puncture in the rear wheel of a bicycle on your own, and for novice cyclists, we will tell you what pressure in a bicycle tire should comply with the norm.
GASKETING THE CAMERA
- First of all, you need to determine where the camera is pierced. To do this, the camera needs to be pumped up and examined carefully. A characteristic hiss will be heard at the puncture site. This place needs to be marked somehow.
- Then you need to free the chamber from air by pressing the nipple tongue.
- Your repair kit should have fine sandpaper, you need to take it and rub well the place where the tire pierced.
- Now you need to apply a thin layer of adhesive. This is done in such a way that the piece on which the glue is applied is slightly larger than the patch in size.
- Let the glue lie down for a couple of minutes, and then you should glue the patch from which the protective film has been removed in advance. Be careful not to get air bubbles under the patch.
- Now press the patch against the camera for as long as possible.
After gluing the inner tube, run your hand over the inside of the tire. It is not uncommon for the cause of the puncture to get stuck in the tire, and if so, then it must be removed. Don’t forget this moment.
REMOVING THE COVER
To gain access to the punctured tube, you will need to disassemble and remove the tire from the wheel rim. It takes some skill to do the sorting, so don’t be discouraged if you can’t do it right away. It happens as follows:
- The wheel that you removed must be placed upside down with asterisks.
- Now you need to remove the nipple cap.
- The next step is to cling to the edge of the tire with the help of the bead blade and turn out into the middle of the wheel.
- After fixing the bead vane, you need to take another one of the same, and perform the same actions along the circumference, thereby disassembling the wheel completely.
Since the tire has already been disassembled, it is already easily removed, and the process of removing the camera will not complicate you at all.
REAR WHEEL BUSHING REPAIR
The most common problem that a bike’s rear hub can upset you is a loose or tight taper. If weakening is observed in the cone, then the wheel will begin to play strongly. In the second case, when the cone is tightened, the bicycle will move much more tightly than in normal mode, and the bearings may crackle. One way or another, you need to repair the rear wheel hub of the bike as soon as possible.
To eliminate the backlash or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, wrenches are needed, most often they use a 15 mm open-end cone wrench and a 17 mm open-end wrench. First, you need to start loosening the locknut, after which you need to proceed to loosening or tightening the flare nut to the required position.
Ideally, there should be no backlash. Finally, the lock nut must be screwed into place. If the cone is adjusted properly, the wheel will turn easily due to the force of gravity acting on the reflector or nipple.
It also happens that the rear axle of the hub can be broken or bent. The main cause of such a malfunction is usually poor quality parts. If this happens, you need to completely replace the hub axle with a new, better quality.
When replacing the axle, or when going through routine maintenance, or during the repair of the rear wheel hub of the bike, so that it is more convenient to dismantle the ratchet. If the essence of the repair is just a tightening or loosening of the cone, then this action is not necessary.
To avoid possible breakdowns, you need to periodically undergo maintenance. Its essence most often comes down to adjusting the cone and washing, cleaning the components and lubricating the bearings.
Less often. they change bearings, oil seals or washers. The cost of repairs can result in high costs if maintenance was rarely carried out and in general the bushing was not particularly monitored.
For example, it happens that the grooves in the bushing housing are eaten out by bearings, this can happen because the axle was bent or not lubricated enough. In this case, in order to repair the rear wheel of the bike, you will need to completely replace the hub body, or maybe the wheel itself.
Therefore, in order to avoid such a situation, before going on a long bike trip, you need to carry out maintenance of your bike, and if problems are found, then fix them in a timely manner.