Assembling the rear axle of the bicycle

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to pull together, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bicycle maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you will gain skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the bearings of the hub, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The rear speed device is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the spoke tension. This can be done using a round key with knock-out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. You need to loosen a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unrolled simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns eat up the corners of the nut due to a loose fit and sliding.

How to install a trainer quick release skewer.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:

  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to spin the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are to a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

Beginning of disassembling the bushing. removing the cassette retaining ring.

I usually remove the inner ring of the bearing with the locknut using a pair of needle nose pliers, carefully sliding the nose into the spline of the outer circlip. Hold the sprockets firmly, as if trying to turn them in the direction of free play

Bicycle Coaster Brake Repair and Service

For a right-hand threaded wheel, use the same method to force the hub retaining ring to rotate counterclockwise.

The outer circlip has a right-hand thread. When working with a bicycle drivetrain, always keep the pedaling direction in mind, which always matches the tightening direction. So the sleeve usually spins counterclockwise. If the transmission is located on the right, then the rear hub will definitely have a right-hand thread.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:

assembling, rear, axle, bicycle
  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to spin the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

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Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are to a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to pull together, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

Diagnostics and care:

  • Tighten the wheel hub bearings. In principle, you can not remove the mechanism itself, but the bearings are easier to remove when removing the entire device, they are quite small, it is very difficult to remove them.
  • Lubricate the system. Sometimes the reason for the improper operation of the bike is not only the lack of lubrication, but also its abundance.
  • Replace broken dogs. The reason for repairing the transmission can be a broken pawl that does not catch the wheel mechanism, or a spring that pushes it.
  • Sprocket teeth wear. The most common reason. The entire device needs to be replaced. Small diameter sprockets break most often.
  • Cleaning of dirt and grass that clogs between the stars when riding.

What is a ratchet?

Ratchet is a ratchet mechanism consisting of a freewheel, sprockets and a threaded ring. The design transfers rotation from the pedals to the wheel through the chain, while simultaneously allowing movement without the need to pedal. It is screwed onto the threads of the axle of the rear hub of the bicycle. If the sprockets wear out, they unscrew and change completely to new ones.

Cassette and ratchet should not be confused. In modern bicycles, they began to use a cassette. a device that is more advanced than a ratchet. The design consists of stars assembled together, which are put on the sleeve and secured with a nut, and the holes in the middle are equipped with grooves with which it clings to the drum. Inside the drum there are pawls, springs and a ratchet. It is easier to remove the cassette and replace the unusable sprockets with new ones. It can be easily dismantled in any conditions, and the removal of the ratchet is best done on a workbench. This requires not only a special tool, but also significant physical effort. The impossibility of repair is its main drawback. Plus a small number of stars and fragility.

It just works. The system has a pawl that engages the rear of the transmission mechanism, at which time a slight crackling sound is heard. From this cod comes its name. If there is no sound, it means that it will pull the chain forward when the pedals do not rotate.

Unscrewing a stuck ratchet

It so happens that there is not enough effort to disrupt a rattle that has been tightly tightened for several years. In this case, lengthening the key lever will help.

Many in the garage will find an iron pipe or bar about 60 cm long.Then, you can simply put this pipe on the handle of an adjustable wrench or the tooth of an open-end tool, or do a tricky thing and assemble a two-arm lever.

  • Take a couple of short, 6-8 cm long bolts M8 or M10 and pick up two corresponding nuts for them.
  • Insert one of the bolts into the hole in the ratchet puller, and thread the other through the hole in the handle of the adjustable wrench. These bolts should be secured with nuts to hold them in place.
  • We insert the pipe between two bolts: the puller installed in its place and the adjustable wrench put on it. Now all that remains is to push the resulting lever down to disrupt the ratchet.

Usually with a lever from 50 to 60 cm, any rattle is unscrewed in almost one motion.

How to disassemble the ratchet?

To repair the ratchet with your own hands, you need a hammer and center punch. Instead of a center punch, you will need a large nail or self-tapping screw. It is better to disassemble the device on a wheel so that you can hold it.

  • The ratchet spins on the wheel. A center punch is inserted into the hole on the nut, and by turning clockwise with a hammer, the mechanism is disassembled.
  • The stars are removed with a puller and a key. There are balls inside under the nut. There is also a second ball track on the wheel.
  • To prevent the balls from scattering, you must put a rag or box.
  • The smallest asterisk is unscrewed counterclockwise. The rest are just filming.

Now you need to look at the condition of the mechanism, pawls and lubrication. Dogs wear out most often. They can be replaced. A special repair kit made of dogs and rings is produced. Be sure to wash the ball bearings. If the balls are black and there are frayed metal particles, then the bearings have broken. Each one needs to be examined. If there are dents on them, then it is recommended to replace them.

Next, we collect all the parts in reverse order. The flare nut must be tightened with force, and the play for the sprockets relative to the wheel should be adjusted with inlaid, thin rings.

Thus, it is much cheaper to repair the mechanism with your own hands and does not take much time and effort. And it is necessary to perform such actions regularly so that cycling is pleasant and safe.

Bicycle Rear Hub Repair

Rear hub failure is one of the main problems faced by bike owners. This is not surprising, because no matter how carefully the owner cares for his iron friend, the rear hub will still be the most loaded part of the bike. In addition, the bearings in the bushings are often clogged with dirt and corroded.

For self-assembly and repair of the rear hub of a bicycle, you must have the appropriate knowledge and skills. Below we will talk about how to fix the breakage of the rear hub without resorting to the services of specialized service centers.

The most common problem with a bike rear hub is a loose or tight cone. The first case is signaled by a noticeable wheel play, and the second. by the crunch of the bearings and the heaviness of the stroke. If both problems occur, you must immediately start troubleshooting.

Many of the bike’s rear hub components use hardened chrome-molybdenum alloys or case hardened steel, which are brittle

Therefore, we advise you to work carefully with such parts and be sure to use eye protection. When disassembling this part of the bike, we recommend that you apply the minimum possible effort, and before the first repair. practice on an inexpensive or unnecessary bushing.

assembling, rear, axle, bicycle

Bulkhead front hub on a bicycle

Preparatory process

To repair the rear hub, you must first remove the rear wheel from your iron friend. On mountain bikes or sports speed bikes, eccentric clips are often used to secure it, which can be removed without the use of keys. In entry-level bikes, most often the wheels are screwed in with two nuts, which will need to be unscrewed.

Rear hub repair

To eliminate the backlash or tighten the cone, several keys are required. Most often, a 17 mm open-end wrench and a 15 mm cone wrench are needed.

  • loosen the lock nut,
  • tighten or loosen the flare nut to the required value so that the wheel turns easily under the weight of the nipple or reflector,
  • tighten the lock nut.

Sometimes, due to the installation of low-quality parts, the rear axle of the bicycle hub can bend or break. To solve this problem, the axle should be completely replaced with a new, higher quality one. To facilitate this task it is necessary to remove the ratchet.

How to Avoid Breaking the Rear Bike Hub?

To prevent the occurrence of malfunctions of the rear hub, you should periodically carry out full maintenance, which consists in adjusting its cone, as well as washing the bike, cleaning its parts, lubricating or replacing bearings, washers and oil seals.

To service the rear hub you will need:

  • remove the wheel as described above,
  • unscrew the nuts located on the axle and remove it (for bushings on bulk bearings) or knock out the axle from the drum side (for bushings on industrial bearings),
  • carefully pull out the bearings using tweezers (in industrial bearings, the axle most often comes out with one of the bearings, so to remove the second one, insert a screwdriver into the bushing and knock it out),
  • for bushings on industrial bearings, it is necessary to remove the drum by turning it clockwise,
  • check the condition of the bearings and, if necessary, replace them,
  • thoroughly rinse the bearings with white spirit or gasoline to get rid of the old grease,
  • check axle for evenness,
  • wipe the axle, cones, wheels and bearing seat in the hub,
  • apply special grease to the bearing seat in the bushing and install the bearings,
  • lubricate the bearings,
  • insert the axle and tighten the nuts so that there is no wheel play (assembly of the rear hub on industrial bearings is carried out in the reverse order).

When it comes to servicing the bike in a slipshod manner, repairing the rear hub can be expensive. For example, sometimes due to insufficient lubrication or axle curvature under the action of bearings, potholes form in the body of this bicycle part. In this case, a complete replacement of the rear hub, and possibly the wheel, will be required. To protect yourself from such troubles, we advise you to carry out a visual inspection of your iron friend before each departure and eliminate his malfunctions in time.

Replacing the camera

First of all, you need to lower the wheel. unscrew the cap and release the air by pressing the nipple. If the chamber is damaged and there is no air in it, simply remove the cap. To remove the tire, you will need mounting paddles, with which it will be convenient to pry on the tube until it becomes easy to pull it off the rim.

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The camera can be replaced without the need for tools. First, the nipple is inserted into the hole in the rim, after which the tire is evenly put on the rim. Finally, the camera needs to be pumped up to the desired state.

Removing the sleeve

We remove the cassette with stars using a special puller, a key and a whip. First, we insert the puller into the nut, then insert the key into it, put on the whip on the large asterisk, hold the asterisks with it, and unscrew the nut. Now that the nut is unscrewed, you can easily reach the cassette with stars.

Before disassembling the hub, the tension on the spokes should be loosened so that it can easily be pulled out of the engagement. When parsing this part, it is better to decompose all of its components in order, so that later you can precisely put everything in place. If necessary, you can replace the bearings, which, unlike metal components, are the first to fail. Timely service of the bushing will ensure its long service life, so do not neglect cleaning and lubricating the mechanism parts.

In the reverse order, the knitting needles are tightened exactly as far as they have been loosened, it is important not to overtighten them, but the parts must be firmly fixed. The cassette is put on the sleeve and tightened with a whip.

After all the procedures performed, due to which the dismantling of the wheel and its parts took place, you need to know how to assemble the rear wheel of the bike back.

Dismantling sequence

First, remove all unnecessary items from the bike that may be on it. And it is also better to unscrew all kinds of mirrors, flashlights and other little things that can be damaged during work.

  • We turn the bike upside down, put it on the handlebar and seat. You can do without a special rack for repairing a bicycle, the main thing is to give it a stable position.
  • We find out the type of brakes installed for further action. As usual, these are disc or rim brakes:
  • disc brake. It will be easier to remove the wheel with it;
  • The rim brake of the V-brake type must first be released and removed, otherwise further dismantling of the wheel will no longer be possible. (It is not difficult to release the brakes, for this you need to move the cable to the side of the fastening screw, move the levers, removing the end of the cable from the clamp, lower it down and spread the brake levers to the sides).
  • Then we act depending on the type of fastening of the rear wheel to the bicycle axle. We unscrew the nuts with a wrench (one or two) or, if the mount is a disc eccentric, unscrew the brake lever and twist the wheel.
  • The chain passing through the gearshift system is neatly removed from the sprockets.

The wheel is removed. Now you can carry out all the necessary further manipulations: replacement, adjustment, lubrication of parts.

The main components of the wheel

A standard bicycle wheel consists of several main parts:

  • bushing. the central part, due to which the torque is provided. The interior of the rear hub is slightly more complex than the front. Not every bushing can be disassembled at home, some variations without special equipment and knowledge are better left untouched. And also brakes can be attached to this part;
  • spokes connecting the hub to the rim;
  • the rim on which the tire is mounted;
  • tire.

So, if the rear wheel of a bicycle needs to be repaired, or if it’s just time to service the spare parts, it is necessary to clarify the procedure that should be taken when removing the wheel.

Disassembly and assembly of the rear bicycle wheel

It’s no secret that any vehicle periodically needs repair and maintenance. The bike is no exception. And also sometimes this need is due to the desire to upgrade your bike. To prepare it for such manipulations, of course, the structure will have to be disassembled, and although a bicycle is not a very complex mechanism, still not every cyclist has an idea of ​​how to disassemble the rear wheel of a bicycle.

Installing the rear wheel

To carry out the installation correctly, assemble everything in place should be clearly in the reverse order.

  • Place the chain on the smallest sprocket, insert the wheel onto the frame mount. In this case, it is important to make sure that the axle is fully inserted into the grooves of the frame.
  • We fasten nuts or eccentrics, they should be tightened well so that the wheel firmly sits on the frame.
  • Fasten rim brakes if fitted. Return to the previous position in exactly the opposite order, otherwise the next trip may not end very well.

After the installation process, it is advisable to check the correctness of the actions performed by means of a short test drive to see how your bike will behave on the road after the updates.

Maintenance and diagnostics of the rear wheel is a mandatory procedure to maintain the health of the mechanisms.

Replacing the bearing of the rear wheel of a bicycle will not cause you any difficulties if you understand all the nuances and features of servicing this part. The condition of the bearings, their timely maintenance and replacement is the key to a safe ride.

How to properly remove and reinstall the front wheel of a bicycle. The sequence of dismantling and installing the front wheel.

How to choose a wheel motor for an e-bike. What factors to pay attention to when choosing. Advantages and disadvantages of varieties of motor-wheel motors.

DIY bike repair: rear hub

Of course, to care for your bike, you need to understand how it works. Of course, in the structure of the iron horse there are many complex and incomprehensible at first glance, but this is not a reason to close our eyes to this. You need to look at the bike from different angles. Today we will not talk about the whole bike in general, but we will focus on what is in the area of ​​the rear wheel of the bike, in particular, on the axle.

Features of the

The rear axle of the wheel is stationary and is located in a special movable hub of the same wheel. It is precisely such bushings that provide the movement of the wheel, and they do this due to the fixed axle. In order to better understand where the rear axle is, note that it is next to it that the spokes are already attached. If something happens to the cones, bushings or the rear axle, the entire rear wheel mechanism will have to be disassembled and repaired. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that everything connected to the rear axle remains intact and safe.

Repairs

Of course, there are situations when something in the axle breaks. Fortunately, such situations are not desperate. If something breaks, and you still do not understand which side to turn the necessary nut and where to put the cones, the Internet will help you. And we, in turn, will help you navigate the difficult repair business.

  • First of all, you need to understand that everything related to the rear bicycle axle is a very delicate matter, which means that you need to approach it carefully so as not to make it worse.
  • It is important not to lose a single detail, even a small one. Even if you lose a small nut or cone, it will be difficult for you to finish the axle repair without them.
  • The first step is to remove the rear axle of the bike hub, as well as the sprocket block. Of course, when removing it, it is better to put the bike on the side where this block is not.
  • After you remove the rear sprocket block, you will need to remove the bearing ring.
  • Everything should be in order, you can see for yourself when, after disassembly and removal, a bunch of small details appear in front of you. Therefore, it is important for the crane that every little thing must have its place.

But all this is only a preparatory stage in the repair of the rear axle, because the most difficult is still ahead. After you put all the parts in order, and the nuts, cones, etc., as for the bushings will not be scattered in different directions, you will need to remove the bushing screw.

The bushing will then need to be cleaned and all components carefully inspected. This will facilitate the process of further lubrication, which takes place in two stages. This business also needs to be treated as responsibly as possible, because taking care of the axis is an art, and it does not tolerate haste. Before inserting the sleeve into place, the bearings must be returned to their places. Then you can gradually return each part to its place. This is how the assembly process ends, and with it the repair process.

In summary, a key part of a bicycle, the rear axle, deserves to be cared for. Do not be afraid of this difficult process, after the first time it will no longer seem so difficult.

Assembling a wheel, re-spacing a bicycle wheel

The most important part of a bike is the wheels. If you take two bicycles. one extra-class, the other cheap ten-speed. and change the wheels on them, then the cheaper one will be faster. However, getting good wheels is not easy. The fact that the wheel is balanced at the time of purchase does not guarantee that it will remain so during use.

Most bike mechanics do not know how to assemble wheels that can be ridden for a long time without adjustment. But even qualified mechanics do not have enough time for thorough work and skip some operations, as a result of which quality and reliability are reduced. Therefore, it is best to assemble the wheels yourself. This is done as follows:

  • A. Set
  • 1. Lubricate the spoke threads and rim with oil where they touch the nipples. Without this, it is impossible to pull the spokes tight enough.
  • 2. If the holes on the hub flanges are countersunk on one side only, the spoke heads should be on the non-countersunk side. countersink is designed to bend the spoke.
  • 3. Insert nine spokes into one flange with a free hole between them and with the heads on the outside. If it is a rear wheel, start at the right (threaded) side of the hub.
  • 4. Take the rim, find among the holes shifted to the right, the closest to the right of the valve hole.
  • 5. Insert the first spoke into this hole and screw the nipple two turns. This spoke is called the key.
  • 6. Count four holes clockwise from the key spoke, insert the next spoke and tighten the nipple.
  • 7. Check your progress against the following conditions:
  • but. The threaded part of the sleeve faces the worker;
  • b. The spoke closest to the valve hole is to the right of it;
  • from. Both spokes connect the right side of the rim to the right flange of the hub:
  • d. Three free holes between the spokes.
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  • 8. If all these conditions are met, secure the remaining seven spokes using every fourth hole in the rim.
  • 9. Turn the wheel over. Now it is facing you with its left side. Next, you need to connect nine spokes to the rim, inserted from the outside into the left flange.
  • 10. Find the key needle. It is located to the left of the valve hole or through one nipple hole. The tenth spoke should be next to the key to the right (left. In the original) of the valve hole. In this case, the tenth spoke should not cross the key spoke.
  • 11. After installing the tenth spoke, the remaining eight spokes of the left flange are dialed in the above sequence.
  • 12. Now half of the spokes have been dialed. In the case of the rear wheel, these spokes are called drive spokes. Their heads should be on the outside of the 2 flange. If you look at the rim, pairs of free holes and pairs of holes with nipples should be interspersed along the entire circumference. The nipples should only be screwed in a few turns.
  • 13. We turn to the tension spokes, the heads of which should be on the inside of the flange. We pass one tensioning needle through the hole in the flange and twist the sleeve so that the already dialed needles receive a direction as close as possible to the tangent to the flanges. For a rear wheel, grasp the threaded part of the hub and turn it clockwise. The first idler spokes intersect the three pre-assembled drive spokes (counting only those belonging to the same flange). Each tension needle should run outside of the first two needles that it crosses and inward under the third one that it crosses. When assembling the first nine idler spokes, be sure to insert them into the corresponding holes in the rim, i.e. in those that are offset to their flange.
  • 14. The rest of the tension needles are recruited in the same way. In this case, it may turn out that the ends of some of the spokes do not reach the nipple holes. This is usually caused by one or more of the nipples snagging on the rim with their tips and not going into the holes. If this is not the reason, then you have turned the nipples too far, which, until all the needles have been dialed, should turn no more than two turns.
  • B. Pre-tension
  • 15. Before tightening the spokes, screw all the nipples to the same depth. For example, with long knitting needles so that their ends come out flush with the splines of the nipples. If the spokes are short for this, it is sufficient that the same number of threads are visible on all spokes. Uniform screwing of the nipples is very important because greatly facilitates the entire further process. In this case, the spokes should not be taut yet.
  • 16. In the case of the rear wheel, now is the time to tackle the umbrella. The right knitting needles should have more tension than the left knitting needles. For most bushings, it is sufficient as a first approximation to tighten all right nipples an additional 3.5 turns.
  • 17. Proceed to even tension of the spokes. Starting from the valve hole, turn each nipple one turn. If there is a lot of slack in the knitting needles, add one turn at a time. In this case, after passing three-quarters of the rim, it may become difficult to turn the nipples. This means that the second turn is excessive and all nipples tightened on the second turn should be returned to their original position, i.e. unscrew one turn. After that, start again from the valve hole and insert all the nipples half a turn.
  • 18. Install the wheel on the machine and see which rim unevenness is greater. vertical (ellipse) or horizontal (figure eight). You always have to rule the biggest one.
  • C. Correction of the figure eight
  • 19. Suppose we start with a figure eight, and the worst part of the rim is offset to the right over the four spokes. Two of them go to the right flange and two to the left. Tighten the left nipples a quarter of a turn, and release the right ones by the same amount, this section of the rim will shift to the left. However, the tension of the spokes does not change, since as many spokes were loosened as they were tightened, and, moreover, by the same amount. If the rim section is shorter, for example 3 spokes. one left and two right, you can pull the left knitting needle half a turn, and release each of the right knitting needles a quarter of a turn. This is the principle of wheel balancing, thanks to which horizontal beating can be eliminated without compromising the vertical.
  • 20. What has been done may not be enough to completely correct this unevenness, but if there is improvement, you should not try to immediately achieve the final result. Now find the worst rim deflection to the left and tighten it. Thus, we go from one side to the other, we save the pre-defined umbrella. Do not try to straighten the figure 8 better than 3 mm at this point. This is done during the final alignment after adjusting the umbrella and ellipse.
  • D. Editing an ellipse
  • 21. Find the section of the rim farthest from the hub. By pulling the knitting needles in this place, they bring him closer to her. This increases the rigidity of the entire wheels. The principle of balance described above also applies here. Suppose the plot found has three nipples. two left and one right. If you tighten the two left-hand spokes half a turn each, and the right one one turn, then the rim protrusion will retract without disturbing the uniformity of the tightness. In this way, you can straighten the ellipse without degrading the noteworthy figure eight.
  • 22. Find the next section of the rim farthest from concentricity and pull it out as described. Then the next section, and so on. Each time the wheel will get closer to the circle, the spoke will be pulled tighter.
  • 23. To what extent should the knitting needles be tightened? The best. as hard as possible until the edges of the nipples begin to eat away. the tension on the spokes gives the wheel strength. While riding, at any given moment, the various forces applied to one spokes add up to those applied to the others. are deducted. The spokes must have sufficient tension so that if the forces applied are weakened, the spoke never loses tension. Consecutive cycles of pulling and sagging lead to fracture.
  • 24. If the wheel is already round and the spoke tension is insufficient, tighten all the nipples by the same amount (for example, half a turn) and check the wheel for concentricity again.
  • 25. Straightening an ellipse requires more tightening than a figure eight, in which case it is possible to tighten the knitting needles half a turn or even a full turn at a time. For preliminary editing of the figure eight. quarter and half turn, for precise dressing. 1/8 and 1/4 turn.
  • E. Umbrella
  • 26. The rear wheel umbrella should be in a plane passing through the midpoint of the distance between the tips of the rear hub. Otherwise, the bike will tend to turn to the side.
  • 27. The easiest way to check the correctness of the umbrella is the distance from the rim to the brake pads. This distance is measured when the wheel is in the normal position and when the right end of the axle is inserted into the left tip (i.e. the wheel is upside down). In both cases, the distance should be the same. However, this method is suitable only if the axis is not bent.
  • 28. To adjust the umbrella, with the needles fully tensioned, release the nipples on one side by the same amount and tighten the nipples on the other side (usually 1/4 turn). If the spokes are not very tight, you can only tighten the nipples on the side where you want to slide the rim. At the same time, the rigidity of the entire wheel will also increase.
  • F. Final setup
  • 29. The final setting consists in sequential repetition of all three processes, straightening the ellipse, figure eight and umbrella. Adjustment of one can affect the rest, so at each given moment you need to work on what is most different from the norm.
  • G. Final tension
  • 30. Now you should have a wheel that is no different from the serial factory one: all three parameters are within the normal range, the spokes are sufficiently tight. Many mechanics would consider the job finished. However, when driving, such a wheel will quickly go out of the norm. The fact is that the spoke heads have not yet fully entered the holes of the flanges, and the nipples into the holes of the rim. When driving, they begin to “sit down” more tightly and upset the balance of the wheel.
  • 31. There are several ways to shrink knitting needles. For example: take the wheel in both hands, push hard on the spokes at their intersection, turn the wheel and do the same with the next four spokes, and so on along the entire circumference of the wheel. In this case, creaks and crackles will be heard, that is, the sound of shrinking spokes. After this procedure, the wheel may become somewhat out of order. Adjust it again and repeat the needle wrench. Continue the whole process until it stops affecting the rim and the sound stops.
  • 32. There is another reason why the wheel quickly goes out of order. This is the twisting of the knitting needles. When tightened tightly, the rotation of the nipple can initially twist, i.e. turn the spoke instead of pulling it up the thread. For example, suppose you want to tighten a knitting needle a quarter turn. In this case, the following happens not so rarely: first, at one eighth of a turn, the spoke itself rotates together with the nipple, then the thread is fed and pulls the spoke for the remaining 1/8 of a turn. After a while, the twisted spoke gives back and unwinds the tightening in the nipple. The easiest way to get rid of this is to tighten the nipple 3/8 of a turn and then loosen it 1/8 so that a clean 1/4 turn pull-up is obtained without twisting. With some experience, you will feel when the spoke begins to curl. A beginner can, before stretching, apply marks on all the needles with a felt-tip pen, which, when twisted, will rotate.
  • 33. After the wheel is fully balanced, make sure the ends of the spokes do not protrude above the rim. Otherwise, they must be cut down.
  • 34. Remove any remaining grease that will spoil monotubes or chambers!
  • 35. When adjusting the wheel, do not rush under any circumstances. If you are tired, postpone work and return to it only with a fresh mind.
  • Contact our bike workshop to assemble your bike!