Before starting work, you need to make sure that all parts are in good working order and are compatible with the frame and between themselves. If the part is new. check screw connections. If the part is second-hand, it must be cleaned of dust and dirt and pre-lubricated with grease or liquid (on site) grease the working units (for example, the spring and rollers of the rear derailleur, the axles of the rim brakes, etc.).
Blue. can be unscrewed. Red. only when heated to 200 ° C ‘, BALLOON, true, ABOVE, true, OFFSETX.17, FADEIN, 100, FADEOUT, 400, PADDING, 8, SHADOW, false, WIDTH, 240, OPACITY, 90) “onmouseout =” UnTip “
Threaded connections require special care. For all threaded assemblies, it must be borne in mind that the material of most threaded connections is MTB. aluminum-based alloys (duralumin), and the bolts in most cases are steel. Therefore, you need to twist without using excessive force, because the thread can be damaged very easily. If the bolt does not tighten on the first threads. do not immediately grab the larger key, it would be better to check whether the thread in the assembly is clean, not damaged, whether there are any shavings, whether the thread is generally suitable for this screw / bolt / nut in the place where you intended to screw it. If necessary, it is worth driving the thread with a tap. There are no uniform standards, and the thread pitch may vary.
Key moment. screw it to the frame correctly.
Installing connecting rods
With the new cranks and bottom bracket, it’s simple. We apply the grease (do not spare the lubricant, it is better to wipe off the excess) on the shaft and press the connecting rods. The excess can be erased, or you can throw it away. later it will fall off with the sand. Carriages and used systems must first be thoroughly cleaned of dirt (only seats are allowed), and only then installed. And in both cases, you need to check if the links that attach the stars to the connecting rods are tightened.
The system with an integrated axle contains a rake. Namely, rubber boots on the shaft, which must be replaced with each dismantling. Where to get them. unknown, do it yourself. unrealistic. In short, systems with an integrated axis, it is best to touch as little as possible.
Installing the carriage
In the practice of assembling bicycles, a clean thread in the carriage assembly is an exception rather than a rule, although, with the transition to robotic production, the situation has improved significantly. Ideally, the carriage cup should be screwed into the carriage assembly “by hand” almost all the way.
Each thread must be carefully cleaned. At home, this can be done with a needle or a sharp awl, then a lock or grease is applied to the thread.
It is recommended to use the lock if you were able to screw the cup all the way by hand without a lever. in this case there is a risk that the threads will loosen. If the counter cup of the carriage is made of plastic. its elasticity is sufficient so that the threads do not loosen and grease can be used.
Do not put the carriage dry. it will just stick to the frame, and then it will take a long and dreary way to unscrew it with a huge lever, it will be lucky if there is a living thread. On a new carriage, as a rule, the threads are in order. If several turns in the carriage assembly of the frame are damaged (it happens even on new frames due to improper attachment to the demonstration stands). it is necessary to contact the workshop for the mechanic to clean the thread with a tap and eliminate this defect. There is no way to do anything on your own, because carriage thread on one side. left, and on the other. right hand, and a special tool for carriage threads is quite expensive.
When installing the capsule carriage, the order of tightening the cups depends on the individual design of the carriage. As a rule, the cup with the carriage (usually the right one) is screwed in first, then the centering cup (in the case of the capsule). You need to tighten it very carefully, in fact, almost all of the thread should be twisted by hand, well, at least half of the thread. If it does not twist. means dirty thread. In any case, a 20 cm lever should be sufficient for tightening with a large margin.
Hollowtech-II carriage and the like. no matter what order to twist.
In addition, a number of manufacturers, in particular Shimano, make these cups out of plastic. It is much easier to ditch such a thread.
Pay special attention to the smoothness of the routing of the shirts of the shifter cables. The dependence here is as follows: the smoother it is laid, the better the switching; the shorter the shirts, the easier the cable runs. A reasonable compromise must be found. When laying a full jacket, only the smoothness of its laying affects.
When screwing the shifter handles onto the steering wheel, do not tighten them tightly. Tighten so that they rotate slightly under load, but do not rotate when the shifter / brake lever is depressed. This is in order not to break the handle / shifter from impact when falling. In this case, it will only turn slightly around the steering wheel.
About Mountain Biking. Tapered Forks and Fitting into a Normal Bike
For a long time in the bicycle market, the standard head size was considered to be 1-1 / 8 “. Nothing lasts forever, and for several years now, the new 1-1 / 8. 1-1 / 2” conical cup, which is also called Tapered, has been gaining momentum.
Buying a bike a few years ago means it has an old standard fork with a stem. A tapered fork won’t just snap. This kind of problem worries cyclists who intend to upgrade a simple fork to something more modern over time. Nowadays the best manufacturers produce almost all of the Tapered forks. Which can create additional difficulties with the acquisition of a suitable option. Of course, 1-1 / 8 “plugs can still be found on the shelves. However, they are quite old models, and for Tapered plugs are often higher. over, choosing can be difficult due to the small range of products.
The situation was the same with respect to the head size 1 “. Forks gradually passed into a deficit category, and then began to be perceived as a rare and unconditional exoticism in its purest form. Previously, it was impossible to put a thick stock in the old-style steering wheel due to the fact that the new The standard has a wider stem. Now everything is much simpler. A taper forks can fit into a standard 1-1 / 8 “head, but there are tricks. First, let’s consider the reasons for changes in the diameter of the stem.
Reasons for switching to tapered headset The size 1 “headset disappeared for a reason. The small diameter tube had low stiffness, the bike felt poorly. Active braking and steering made the fork move. With more weight on the cyclist, it felt even more. The larger head tube provided the necessary control stiffness. Some, at the same time, continued to reinvent the wheel:
And the increase in the lower part of the head tube allows for greater load distribution, and therefore the bearings now last longer. Is there a need for a tapered head for the common hobbyist? Unlikely. Extreme riding with relaxed riding is useless, there are no shortcomings in speed control, a little stiffness is of little concern. It’s another matter for athletes who really benefited from the innovation.
Fitting a new standard forks to a regular headroom It is simply impossible to switch to a new standard and most have to change frames. But in this situation, you can find a way out. Anyway, this is possible for bicycles with a semi-integrated headset with 44mm cups. It is worth remembering that if the internal dimensions of the glass are less than 44 mm, nothing will come of it. You can try, but it will take time and effort, and it is not very clear what will happen to durability.
If you need to install a tapered fork, you can use the NukeProof steering wheel. It fits best into a cylindrical glass. It is only important that the bicycle has a steering wheel designed for a semi-integrated steering wheel of a certain size. For many newbies, the steering features are a sealed mystery. But the question is quite understandable.
Features of bicycle steering columns The steering columns are very diverse in design. In the case of mountain biking, this is how it works. Semi-integrated steering wheels are easy to recognize. If a cup is additionally inserted into the head tube, then we have a semi-integrated head tube. Bearings can be open or closed. All this requires a clamp. The integrated steering does not require cups. The bearing seats are machined directly into the sleeve. Cartridges with bearings are placed there. An example of a semi-integrated helmsman:
There are many other possibilities for fitting the new standard forks to a regular bike frame. With the investment of time and effort, you can always find a suitable adapter to fit a tapered fork into the frame. But isn’t it easier, in this case, to replace the frame?
Dismantling the front fork for parts
To replace the part, you do not need to disassemble, but its repair will require you to get into the mechanism and carefully delve into it. Let’s consider how to sort out a spring-elastomer type suspension fork:
- Unscrew the bottom fasteners with a hex wrench.
- Remove the spring compression adjustment bolt. Preload. It is the main damper travel adjuster.
- Remove the elastomer restrictor or damper.
- Take off your pants.
- Using a screwdriver, remove the seals from the pants.
The main reasons why the fork squeaks, makes knocks and does not smooth out vibrations while the bike is moving include wear of parts, water and dirt ingress, lack of internal lubrication. We put in order:
- Remove all dirt from the inside of the pants.
- Thoroughly wipe the fork legs, spring and seals.
- Replace the defective part if necessary.
- Install the elastomer damper (fill oil through the nipple for the hydraulic fork).
- Lubricate the inner cavity. inject oil from a can.
- Install Mounting Bolt and Preload.
It looks like a do-it-yourself bicycle fork bulkhead. Is it needed for a new part? There is an opinion that a plug that has been sorted out at once will be better tuned and will last longer. Much depends on the quality of the kit, but it will be found out in real riding conditions.
Scheduled repairs are done as needed, bulkhead once a season. And of course, you shouldn’t forget about prevention. After each ride, remove dirt from the surface of the oil seals, lubricate, check the fasteners and integrity.
Bicycle fork: remove, disassemble, assemble, install
It would seem, why do bicycles and cyclists need a suspension fork? But for both, it is extremely useful: a well-matched and adjusted fork can significantly reduce the load on the palms and hands while riding, improve the handling of the bike, and in addition, increases the service life of the frame and steering bearings by reducing the vibration effect. With proper care, the life of the plug can be extended several times. This will surely please the zealous owner of a two-wheeled friend, given the high cost of bicycle forks.
- cleaning and lubricating the feet on the oil seals. every 100-150 km of the distance traveled;
- inspection for cracks in the pants of the fork, lubrication of oil seals with disassembly. every 500-1000 km;
- for oil forks. oil changes annually or after 4000-5000 km of travel.
Among the tools necessary for working with a bicycle fork are a screwdriver, pliers, a wrench, a small adjustable gas wrench; taking into account the specifics of working with oil, it is advised to stock up on rags or rags, in addition, work can be performed with gloves to protect hands from damage and pollution.
Bicycle fork disassembly
Cycling is a lot of fun and excitement, but remember that this vehicle requires as much maintenance as any other. Although its design is relatively simple, if you become the owner of a bicycle, you cannot avoid routine care of it. Someone may object. they say, there are specialists for this, let them do it. But judge for yourself. is it worth running to the master every week if you yourself are quite capable of taking all the necessary measures to keep the vehicle in working order. And in terms of costs, it is much cheaper than the services of a specialist.
Disassembly and lubrication of the bicycle front fork is a must.
How to put the fork back on the bike
First, inspect the bearing ring. There should be no damage or broken edges on it. Otherwise, you will need to replace it (if an old plug is installed). Assembly sequence:
Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column.
Cover it with an adjustable wrench from above.
Using a hammer, press in the ring evenly with soft blows on the jaws of the key. We hammer on the sound: while he is deaf, we continue to press, sonorous. the ring is in place.
How to Remove and Install Headset Bearings
Lubricate the surface of the stopper (grease. lithol-24, buksol or special composition).
Place the bearing carefully with the balls facing up. You can also apply a little lubricant to it. A sealing washer must be placed under the bearing.
Carefully insert the stem into the glass and repeat all removal work in the reverse order.
Why you need to remove a bicycle fork
Obviously, there is no need to simply dismantle it from the bike. There are a number of reasons for this. replacement, overhaul and service. Replacement means removing an unusable part and installing a new one instead.
Repair. partial replacement of components. These can be bearings, washers, spring, damper or oil seal. Service includes adjustment, cleaning, lubrication.
The main symptoms that indicate removing the fork from the bike and putting it in order:
The device of the classic front shock absorption system is a metal spring and a rubber damper. Shrinkage of the spring and elongation of the elastomer rod degrade the properties of the shock absorber, making it stiffer. Regardless of the setting, the fork will knock on obstacles.
Backlash and tight handlebar travel indicate worn bearings and o-rings, as well as a dirty fork cavity. A suspicious creak when the bike is moving indicates that it is necessary to lubricate the part, and you cannot do without removing it.
Any mechanical damage leads to unexpected breakdown of the system. If cracks are found on the body and legs, the fork should be immediately replaced with a new one.!
In disassembling the shock absorber with your own hands, you will need tools:
- Screwdriver Set;
- flat sharp object;
- sliding wrenches;
- small hammer.
During operation, it will be necessary to clean and lubricate the part again, so you will need a can of grease, a few soft rags and gloves.
- check the bike fork for integrity every 500. 1000 km;
- clean the feet on the oil seals every 150. 200 km of the track;
- apply a little grease to the stuffing box of the legs several times a season;
- specially for hydraulic shock absorbers. change the oil every 5000 km.
As you can see, it is not difficult to disassemble a bicycle fork and it is not necessary to carry your two-wheeled friend to the master for this. You can do everything yourself. And if you want not to contact the master for as long as possible, then do not forget to monitor the condition of the bike.
The front shock absorber is solely responsible for how comfortably and comfortably your bike handles, whether, for example, vibration that gives off to the hands.
The main purpose of dismantling a bicycle fork is to clean, lubricate and refill with fresh oil. Due to the regular carrying out of such procedures, it is possible to significantly extend the term of work details.
- Choose clothes that you won’t mind getting dirty, prepare shabby rags, cover your work surface with newspapers, working with oil is an unclean thing;
- Prepare the tools you need;
- Buy replacement oil.
Disassembling the plug is easy enough. It is arranged as follows (from top to bottom): stock, crown, pants and leg. Disc brakes are attached to the pants.
Place the bike upside down and remove the front wheel. After that, twist the steering wheel and head tube. You made it to the bike fork.
Now it is possible to carefully remove it, while trying not to lose the balls from the bearings. There is a conical support ring under it, it also needs to be removed.
Now let’s look at the process of parsing specifically the fork itself, in our case. the spring.
- It is necessary to unscrew the lower mounting bolts and unscrew the bolt, which controls the spring;
- Remove the elastomer, which restricts the movement of the spring;
- Unscrew the bolts and remove the pants in order to pull out the oil seals and drain the oil.
This concludes the process of disassembling a bicycle fork. It is fundamentally important to closely examine all the elements that were in front of you, for deformations and cracks, lubricate the springs, and then carefully reassemble in the reverse order. On the first trip, be careful and slowly develop the fork.
As you can see, disassembling the plug is not the most difficult work, but carrying it out can
continue the term of her work for a certain time. Bicycle spring fork repair, how to disassemble and lubricate. there is a large amount of information about this on experienced forums on the network.
When we talk about a bicycle fork, much more often we imagine a front shock. But modern bike models are also equipped with a rear shock absorber, which, in addition, needs care.
The rear shock absorber is a spring (spring) and a damper. in fact, the device that dampens vibrations and rolling. It looks like an oil or air cartridge, depending on the type.
The rear shock absorber is responsible for minimizing stress on your spine throughout rough terrain. the quality and the level of the damper, and its price, depend precisely on its ability to damp. in other words, absorb.
Removing and Disassembling the rear shock absorber is similar to disassembling the front forks.
We turn the bike over, we begin to remove the wheel. We unscrew the threaded locking wheel and see that in that place there is a rear star. a ratchet or a cassette, depending on the type. Most likely you have cassette hubs.
The main difficulty lies in carefully and cautiously removing the bushing and sprocket. Then it is possible to remove the rear shock absorber normally.
But if you remove the rear shock absorber not for the purpose of prevention, but for the purpose of repair, and you want, for example, to eliminate the creak or rattle, then you are unlikely to find the circumstance and will have to contact the service anyway.
Remember, it is invariably possible to entrust the repair and maintenance of the front spring fork to a specialist. They will help you disassemble and lubricate the forks. But, for example, the very maintenance of a bicycle’s front spring-loaded shock absorber is a process that must be understood by anyone who cares about their own two-wheeled vehicle.
How to remove and install the plug. step by step instructions
The first step is to get rid of the front wheel. To do this, turn the bike upside down. Release rim brakes by swinging out the clamping bow. With the discs, you can immediately start removing the wheel. Wings and other devices are immediately removed.
We put the bike in the usual position. Now you need to pull out the steering wheel and remove the plug from the glass:
How to Install Headset. Fork. Stem and Handlebar
Unscrew the steering pin fasteners or anchor bolt completely.
The steering wheel is carefully removed from the fork. You can immediately wipe the pipe with a soft cloth.
Use a thin sharp object (screwdriver or office knife) to pry the retaining metal washer over the glass.
Use the same tool to press out the gasket under the washer. As soon as the ring comes off the edge of the glass, gently pull it out with your hands.
Raise the frame and carefully pull the fork out from below. Why? To avoid damaging or losing bearings.
Next, you need to separate the crown from the stem. To do this, it is necessary to knock out the connecting ring on which the steering column bearing rests.
FLO Cycling. Installing the Fork, Stem, & Handlebar
Carefully use a thin sharp object and a hammer to separate the ring from the edge of the fork. This completes the removal process.
How to replace a fork on a bicycle?
It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user to carry out: if it is possible to cope with simple care, then it is better to leave such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, carry out the replacement under the supervision of the master, following his recommendations.
Threaded steering column
At the same time, their installation takes time and some experience, so it is better to deal with it in specialized centers. The main difficulty is the need to get a thread (due to which the column got its name) into a special hole, as well as screw it evenly and ensure a strong fastening.
The column consists of upper and lower cups pressed into the head tube with bearings installed in them, closed by a boot. The standard layout is also called non-integrated.
Splitting columns into views
The intensive development of the bicycle industry has caused the emergence of new varieties of the same components of the design of this type of transport. Various types of bicycle steering columns have appeared, which have significant differences among themselves.
Why you need to install horns on a bike
Each of the listed columns has its own head tube, and none of the types are interchangeable. So, what types of glasses can be found:
integrated. glass surface concave inward, truncated chamfers. There are four sizes: 1 “(26.35 mm), 1 and 1/8” (41.1 mm), 1 and 1/8” Italian (41.95 mm), 1 and 1.8” FSA Standard (41.6 mm);
semi-integrated. absolutely straight pipe without bulges and concavities, straight chamfer at 90 degrees with a depth of at least 15 mm. The range of sizes is slightly less, and there is no confusion with manufacturers by fractions of an inch: 1 inch (41.35 mm), 1 and 1/8” (43.95 mm), 1.5 inches (55.9 mm);
standard. similar to semi-integrated dimensions and shape, but usually even narrower and smaller. The standards are the same, but the dimensions are different: 1 inch (30.05 mm), 1 and 1/8” (33.9 mm), 1.5 inches (49.57 mm).
All sizes have tolerances from half a millimeter to a millimeter, but these should be avoided to avoid fork play, which has a very negative effect on ride quality. It is clear that we are talking about these standards if the column is threadless.
The steering column is the most complex component of mountain bike steering, but it can be easily mastered if you have enough knowledge and the desire to understand the structure of the bike. Installing and replacing any part of the steering device is simple enough so that you do not worry about possible breakdowns. Sometimes for repairs, you just need to tighten a single bolt. Even major changes are possible, such as raising the steering wheel. Accessories such as an extension cord will help with this.
In general, this type of headset is standard on mountain bikes. This mechanism is somewhat heavier and more complex than the previous type of bicycle headset, therefore the process of increasing the height of the handlebars will be somewhat more difficult. The handlebar is attached to the tube on mountain bikes using an additional element. the stem, which is activated when the height of the handlebar changes.
You can change the height of the steering wheel with a threadless column as follows:
- Unscrew the anchor bolt with a hexagon (a kind of cover at the top of the pipe).
- Remove the tightening bolts that secure the stem to the head tube.
- Remove the steering wheel with the stem. this must be done slowly and very carefully.
- Add staging rings to the pipe, or remove unnecessary ones. it all depends on whether you need to change the height of the steering wheel in the direction of decreasing or increasing.
- Set the stem to its original place.
- Tighten the tightening bolt first, then the anchor bolt.
Please note: when you change the height of the handlebar on a threadless column, tighten the bolts carefully. on such bicycles, when tightened strongly, the parts become unusable. After completing the procedure for adjusting the height of the handlebar on a mountain bike, it is imperative to adjust the level of the handlebar in relation to the front wheel of the vehicle. it is very easy to shift the structure
If it is necessary to slightly correct the position of the steering wheel, then the anchor bolt and the mounting bolt are slightly unscrewed, the steering wheel is straightened to the desired position, and then the bolts are tightened again.
Tilt angle and extension
For a comfortable ride, the bike needs to be adjusted to suit the rider. The steering wheel should be in such a position so that a person moving on a bicycle feels comfortable, there is no unnecessary resistance in the headwind, and, if necessary, the speed limit is observed. There is an optimal handlebar height for each type of bike, which can be adjusted using the steering column and stem. The stem can be adjusted or fixed without adjustment. For track, racing and mountain bikes, the handlebar height can be low, which can be adjusted using the stem
A low handlebar position increases body streamlining and aerodynamics, which is extremely important during competition to increase speed. But in such cases, training is needed since a ride in a bent position causes tension and pain in the muscles of the back.
It’s hard for an unprepared person. For leisurely walks around the city or country trips, this function is not needed. It will be enough to have such a height of the steering wheel, at which the person will feel you comfortably, and his back will not hurt.
During the adjustment process, the following options are distinguished:
- Adjustment at the same level with the saddle of the bicycle, this position is also called zero. It is suitable for driving at moderate speeds and for long journeys;
- Handlebar adjustment below seat level. This adjustment is suitable when you need to create a streamlined shape and increase the aerodynamic properties of the bike;
- High position. the handlebars are above the saddle.
The steering wheel must be centered, that is, set it so that it is perpendicular to the front wheel. It is necessary to adjust the position of the stem, steering column and the steering wheel itself in cases where the bike has not been used for a long time, at the beginning of the season, after long trips and high dynamic loads, as well as after falls and collisions.
The steering mechanism and all its components ensure the maneuverability of the bicycle, and their serviceability guarantees the safety of the bicycle rider. In order not to expose yourself to unnecessary danger, you need to timely inspect your vehicle
It is especially important to check the vital parts and assemblies of the bicycle, on which the life and health of its owner directly depends. The steering gear also belongs to such units.
If your bike is equipped with an adjustable threaded headset, be sure to check that the mountings are secure and that all parts are properly secured. Carry out the lubrication and preventive inspection of the transmission unit in time, check the condition of the wheels, the manufacturer of the steering mechanism adjustment. For troubleshooting and minor repairs, always carry a set of necessary tools, a repair kit for repairing bicycle tires, etc. Taking care of your bike takes care of your health.
no cups, industrial bearings are pressed into the frame.