Assembling the bike out of the box
And now your bike was delivered to you in a box, but before you go to conquer the roads, you need to assemble it. We would like to please you, the manufacturer has already done this work by 80-85%. You just have to open the box, take out the bike, install the steering wheel, seat on it and screw on the pedals.
Check the accuracy of the settings of the main components (brakes, shift system) before riding. Inflate the wheels if necessary.
To make it easier, let’s analyze the assembly sequence in more detail:
- Unpack your bike;
- Remove all parts from the box and place them on an open surface;
- Install the steering wheel to the stem, fixing it with 2/4 bolts;
- Install and secure the saddle;
- Insert the front wheel into the fork and adjust the brake system;
- Screw on the pedals;
- Pump up the wheels;
- If you have additional accessories, install them;
- Inspect and check the main parts of the bike.
Important! There is no need to apply extra effort when tightening bolts or nuts, you can strip the threads or damage the components of the bike.
As we said earlier, to save space during transportation and reduce shipping costs, as well as to keep the bike safe, manufacturers use special boxes for packing bicycles.
In our case, the packaging type is CKD. CKD. the frame and components are packed separately, and upon arrival in the country of destination they are assembled at local factories. Then, in an individual box, each bike is sent to the buyer.
Bike packing size
Packaging dimensions may vary depending on the size of the bike frame or wheels. Knowing the dimensions of the box, you can calculate the approximate cost of delivering a bike to your city.
The table shows the dimensions of the boxes for bicycles depending on their types and wheel diameters:
By packing the bike into a box, shipping costs are significantly reduced, and the box also protects the bike from possible damage during transit. At the same time, you only need 15-20 minutes to assemble the bike, the process itself is very simple and not difficult.
In our article we will try to sort out these questions and dispel the myths that a bicycle in a box is a cat in a bag, that it is very difficult and expensive.
Assembling a children’s bike
The packaging of children’s bicycles, except for the size of the box, is no different from the packaging of adult models.
If you have purchased a kids bike with 12-20 ”wheels, you will need to install additional wheels on the sides. There is no difficulty in this, but we advise you to read the instructions before installing, because different manufacturers use mounting options that can be completely different from each other. Do not forget to install fenders, trunk, basket and other additional accessories, if included.
We also recommend checking all components without exception and be sure to check the operation of the brake system.
Bicycle assembly tool kit
- Nippers, scissors or a knife. they will help to cut scotch tape, plastic ties, nylon laces;
- Hex Keys. These hold the stem, seatpost, seat, brake and shifter bolts;
- Wrench. needed to install pedals, seat and extra wheels on children’s bicycles;
- Screwdrivers. they adjust the switches, and also install reflectors;
- Pump. from the factory the wheels are pumped up only slightly (about 1-1.5 atm), so that during long-term storage the tires and chambers do not crack. Therefore, after assembly, they will need to be pumped up (the recommended pressure is indicated on the tires);
If suddenly you have any difficulties, you can always contact us, our masters will tell you how and what to screw!
How to assemble a bike out of the box
Buying a new bike is always accompanied by great joy and anxious anticipation of the first ride.
Perhaps, at first glance, this procedure will seem complicated and impracticable. But, after carefully reading this article, you can easily assemble and configure the bike yourself. This skill will be useful to you in the future, when the question of emergency repairs arises away from home.
- Hexagon set (multitool);
- Open-end wrench for 15;
- Auxiliary tools (wire cutters, stationery knife).
Advice: choose a high-quality multitool with a large number of all kinds of keys! Thus, with the help of one tool, it will be possible to set up and repair any part of the bike. Another significant advantage of the multitool will be the presence of a squeeze for the chain.!
So, the box with the bike is in front of you, all the necessary tools are at hand. it’s time to start assembling!
If you can ask familiar cyclists for a special rack-bracket on which you can place your bike, this will be an additional convenience during assembly. In case of her absence, just use the help of friends or relatives.
First of all, you need to inflate the wheels according to the recommended pressure. Select an average between the upper and lower pressure thresholds printed on the tire. With some experience, you yourself can easily determine the degree of pumping, depending on the complexity of the relief. In rare cases, if the bike is equipped with disc brakes, the brake rotors need to be screwed onto the wheels. They are attached with six special bolts that come with the bike.
Tip: A quality telescopic bicycle pump is lightweight and compact. It can be easily positioned on the frame using a special mount. Better to give preference to a pump with a pressure gauge. This way you can more accurately regulate the pressure in the tires, thereby extending their service life.
You need to start assembling the bike by installing the handlebar. To do this, you need to unscrew the stem cover, which is fastened with four bolts. Next, we insert the steering wheel into the stem, center it using the applied marks and press it with the lid. The stem bolts should be cross-tightened without excessive force. At the same time, you need to check how the stem bolts are tightened, with which it is attached to the fork stem. Tighten them if necessary.
An important point is the position of the brake levers on the steering wheel. They should be placed in such a way as to continue the position of the palms, without the need to bend them in the wrist.!
Next, you need to start installing the wheels. Often, manufacturers already at the factory install the rear wheel and adjust the speed switch, but there are also completely disassembled options. This procedure is best done on an inverted bike.
Depending on the level of the bike, the wheels can be attached to the frame using special eccentrics or nuts. In the first case, the installation procedure is done manually without tools, and in the second. you need an open-end wrench for 15.
To install the rear wheel, you need to pull the rear derailleur back, overcoming the spring force and inserting the wheel into special slots in the frame (dropouts). After making sure that the axle of the wheel lies flat in the frame, insert the eccentric into its hole, pressing the adjusting nut by hand and close the lever, thereby rigidly fixing the wheel. The pressing force of the eccentric lock or the tightening of the nut is calculated intuitively. It should not be excessive, so as not to damage components, but also not very weak, so that the wheel does not fall out while driving. This procedure is carried out in the same way for the front wheel. You also need to take into account that the eccentric lever should be on the left side in the direction of the bicycle and look up in the closed position.
The next step is to install the front and rear brake calipers (the device into which the brake pads are inserted) onto the frame and fork. The fastening of these elements can be carried out in two ways. directly or using special adapters that come with the kit. In the second case, we first install them, and only then we fasten the caliper. To complete this procedure, you will need a 5mm Allen key and four matching bolts (included). After that, you can fix on the frame all shirts of cables or brake lines, which fit into special grooves and are attached using ordinary plastic ties.
Tip: When installing the calipers, be sure to align them with the brake rotors. This will eliminate the possibility of friction between the pads and the rotor, thereby ensuring free rotation of the wheels. To perform this procedure, you need to slightly loosen the mounting bolts and press the brake lever several times, holding it after the last pressing. Without releasing the brake, tighten the bolts and check the ease of rotation of the wheel. If friction is present, then the manipulations must be repeated to obtain the desired result.
There is only a little left! Installing the saddle and pedals 🙂
Install the saddle so that it is strictly parallel to the ground, and its nose looks along the top tube of the frame, without deviating to the left or right.
When driving for the first time, it is very important to set the correct height and position.
To do this, use the following guidelines:
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- In a sitting position, an almost fully extended leg should reach the pedal with the heel;
- In the position of the connecting rod parallel to the ground, the bent knee should form one line with the pedal axis, strictly perpendicular to the ground. This adjustment is done by moving the saddle forward or backward.
These tips will help you pedal as efficiently as possible, while reducing overall fatigue, as well as eliminating the risk of knee injury while riding.
The pedals are set using a 15 open-end wrench. Note that the pedals are labeled R and L (left and right). This is how they should be installed on the connecting rods. The left pedal is screwed into the crank arm counterclockwise, and the right. clockwise. Often, after buying a new bike, it becomes necessary to adjust the rear and front derailleur. To do this, you can use a special article on our website. Once again, carefully inspect the bike, checking each installed component and if everything is ok. feel free to go on your first trip!
Assembling the bike out of the box
Attention! The following video instructions have appeared on our site: Assembling a bike out of the box and Setting up the switches.
So, you have received your cherished bike, packed in a box with careful hands. But, even if you take him out of there, he still won’t go So let’s figure out how to breathe life into this aluminum construction set! We will understand it using the example of a two-suspension bike Haro Shift R1.
It is very convenient to assemble using special stands. brackets. If these benefits are not at hand, you should ask a friend to help you. First of all, we cut with scissors or special cable cutters the plastic clamps that hold all the parts of the bike together. so that they do not scatter in all directions during the careful transportation by Soviet loaders.
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Then we remove the protective elements in the form of a film, foam rubber or cardboard from the freed parts and the frame. By the way, the color of the future bicycle is already becoming clear! It is better to immediately pump up the wheels, because when the pressure in the chamber changes, the rim can play a little. Which sometimes entails adjusting the brake settings. The recommended pressure is always written on the sidewall of the tire, but if you pump 3 atmospheres, you won’t be mistaken.
|Fig. 1. Freeing spare parts from foam rubber||Fig. 2. Install the stem|
If your takeaway came separately, the next step is to install it. Carefully unscrew the plug stem cover with a hexagon and remove the cardboard rings holding the plug in place. We put a takeaway instead. If it suddenly does not fit on the stem, do not panic and just loosen the side stem mounting bolts. Also a hexagon. During the entire operation, make sure that the stem does not go down from the head tube. this is fraught with long and dirty searches for the bearings that have flown away and installing them back at random.
Now we put in place the stem cover and fasten it all with a bolt. Remember that the purpose of this cover is not to firmly fix the stem. it should only bring the armature. bearings. head tube together. takeaway. But the side stem bolts are just designed for rigid fixation, so they should be tightened as much as possible.
|Fig. 3. Side stem bolts||Fig. 4. Give enough force to tighten the stem|
Now we have where to put the steering wheel. We unscrew the front stem cover with a hexagon, remove it and fit the steering wheel. Your friend at this moment is firmly fixing the cover back with bolts. Now let’s figure out how to make sure that you don’t have to repeat this operation many times in a row. Risks are usually present on the handlebars, which are visible even under the stem cover. This should help you to place the stem in the center exactly. The brake levers should be facing forward in the direction of travel and rotated downward 30-45 degrees. This will be the correct position. Also make sure that the cables are on the correct sides of the steering column and are not twisted.
Let’s finally turn our attention to the wheels. If the bike came with the rear wheel removed, then it should be put first. We insert eccentrics into the bushings, and the springs should be on both sides of the bushing, with the wide part outward. The eccentric lever is always on the left in the direction of travel. When fixing the wheel in the dropouts, you must make sure that it is level and the eccentric axis on both sides has reached the extreme point. Make sure the brakes are not preventing the wheel from centering properly. Tighten the eccentric by twisting one part clockwise while holding the other. Now close it so that the lever cannot open on its own. This is usually due to insufficient tightening force, or snagging on objects along the way. The direction of rotation is usually indicated on the tire, follow this. But there is also a bi-directional protector.
Now is the time to deal with the switch cable jackets. They need to be installed in the rails on the frame, in the shifters and in the rear derailleur. It’s no secret that the shifters pull the cable, due to which the gear shift is obtained. When installing the shirts, the cable should be as relaxed as possible. But for installation in the last grooves, the length of the cable is still not enough. so your friend moves the switches, and you finish the operation.
We will now install the pedals. On the side of the axis of each pedal there are letters L and R. Left and right in the direction of travel, respectively. The left pedal has a left-hand thread, the right pedal has a right-hand thread. Tighten firmly, as a loose pedal breaks the threads in the connecting rod, which leads to its replacement.
Let’s put the saddle on. make sure the seat tube eccentric is open, oil the post itself, and gently slide it into the frame. We adjust the height to taste and securely close the eccentric. If the pin and saddle came separately, which happens extremely rarely, the pin attachments are fixed in the center of the saddle slide (they also have a system of marks), and the saddle slope is set parallel to the ground.
|Fig. 7. Adjust the rear mechanical disc brake|
Let’s grab the brakes. If you have vibrake (rim brakes). make sure that each pad when pressed rests on the rim with its entire braking plane, and also does not cling to the tire. If this is not the case, loosen its fastening with a hexagon and fix it. Install the cable into the brake lever with the cylindrical lead head side.
Guide the cable jacket to the front brake so that it cannot snag on the wheel. For this, special fasteners are provided on the fork, if they are not there, fasten the cable jacket with plastic clamps to the sidewall of the crown and the legs of the fork. On one of the feet of the front and rear brakes there is a cable clamp that fixes its position. Loosen it with a hex wrench and achieve such a tension in the cable that provides the brake lever with about half of its full travel to the grip.
Now. if any block catches the rim when the wheel is moving. there is a small screw at the base of each foot, which can be adjusted with a screwdriver or a hexagon. Do not confuse it with the large screw holding the brake foot in place! When this small screw is screwed in, the brake foot with the brake shoe moves away from the rim, and the opposite foot with the shoe approaches. Accordingly. where it rubs. there we turn it clockwise. It’s that simple! Now we cut off the extra cable so that a tail 3 cm long remains.At the end of the cable, be sure to fix a special tip with pliers.
|Fig. 8. Fasten the brake disc to the hub||Fig. 9. Install the caliper on the fork|
If the brakes are disc. you may need to screw the brake disc to the hub first. We need a special key here. The disc is installed with the labels facing out. Make sure that the directions of rotation of the disc and the wheel coincide. Tighten it tight. the brakes are our everything! Now we install the front caliper. It happens that the adapter comes separately, so we will consider the installation procedure in its entirety. Skip steps as needed.
Fasten the adapter to the plug with the arrow pointing up. Strong. About mechanical (cable) brakes: screw the caliper to the adapter, with the cable entry up. Leave the bolts slightly loose for further adjustment. Install the cable into the brake lever with the cylindrical lead head side. Route the cable jacket to the front brake so that it cannot snag on the wheel. For this, special fasteners on the fork are provided, if they are not there, fasten the cable jacket with plastic clamps to the sidewall of the crown and the legs of the fork. We loosen the hex bolt, which is responsible for attaching the cable to the brake, pass the cable there and achieve such a tension in the cable, which provides the brake lever with about half of its full travel to the grip.
Now the adjustment. The position of the pads relative to the disc is very clear. Both pads should be at the same distance from the disc and be strictly parallel to the disc. We tighten the caliper mounting bolts. But here, too, you can influence the operation of the brake. One block does not move with us (right), and the second is set in motion by a cable. The position of the right pad can be adjusted with a hex on the right side of the caliper. Rotate to the right. the block is approaching the disc. To the left. moves away from him. The position of the left shoe is adjusted by the tension of the cable, the tighter it is, the closer the shoe is to the disc.
|Fig. 10. Brake caliper||Fig. 11. Adjust the front brake|
Hydraulic disc brakes. The installation is the same as for mechanical ones, only instead of a cable we have a hydraulic line, which is already fixed on the handle and caliper. So we correctly position the hydraulic line, put the adapter (if necessary), fix the caliper with bolts, but do not tighten them to the end. We press the brake lever. and now we are tightening the fastening bolts. In 90% of cases, nothing else needs to be done. But, if the brake is not centered and the disc clings to the pads, we loosen the mounting bolts and manually align the caliper.
By the way, it often happens that brake discs come from the factory with curves. all that remains is to straighten them back using a special key or dexterous hands. Fortunately, it is very easy to do this due to the great softness of the metal, so do not overdo it.
|Fig. 12. Front sprockets||Fig. 13. Setting the rear derailleur|
The ultimate in bike assembly is the setting of the derailleurs. Do not be afraid of this, it is easier than everyone thinks. Basically, upon arrival from the factory, everything is configured. It is enough to insert all the shirts correctly and everything will work fine. If not, here’s what to do.
Front derailleur. If the chain does not change from a small chainring to a large one, tighten the cable tighter. This is done with a twist on the shifter in the place where the cable comes out of it. You need to rotate counterclockwise. The number of revolutions cannot be precisely named, act according to the situation. Do one at a time until the chain goes over. If, on the contrary, the chain does not go from a large to a small star, the cable should be relaxed in the above way. You only need to twist it clockwise.
Also on the switch itself, we have 2 small bolts with the letters L and H near them. This is the adjustment of the switch travel limits. L is responsible for the limit near the frame, H for the large star. You should not touch them unnecessarily, but if the chain falls over a large star, then we screw in the bolt H. If the cable tension is sufficient, but the chain still does not go over to the third (largest) star, we untwist the H bolt. Determine the number of revolutions yourself. the situation is the same as with the tension of the cable. If the chain does not go over to the smallest star, unscrew the bolt L. If it falls to the left of the first star, tighten L.
Rear derailleur. Here we have the opposite with the bolts of the limits. L is responsible for the side of the large star, and H for the side of the small star. It is worth pulling the cable if the chain does not go from small to large. Relax. if from big to small. Adjustment of the rear derailleur cable tension is not only on the shifter, but also on the derailleur itself, at the point where the cable enters it.
That’s all, use your wit and dexterous hands! Also remember that if you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them. Call us!
Oh yes! Remember to clean and lubricate the chain!
Happy riding, because a bicycle is freedom!
Installing the steering wheel
For convenience, we recommend driving first. A 5 hexagon will help you with this.
Unscrew the bolt from above and remove the protective cardboard sleeve from the fork stem.
How to properly assemble a bike
First, the saddle is attached to the seatpost. You will need a hexagon (6 mm) to unscrew the mount on this pin. The saddle frames are installed in the grooves, close with a bracket from above and tighten. Thanks to such a clever design, the saddle can be moved forward and backward, as well as adjusted according to the angle of inclination. In this phase, the bolt is simply tightened. Further adjustments are made on the assembled bike.
Installing the steering wheel
Transferring the Accent to the handlebars and stem. Some bicycles are equipped with a stem already attached to the handlebars, others are not. In any case, the stem must be set first. When installing the handlebar and stem, care must be taken that the cables are not tangled. As for the vertical marks engraved on the stem, they represent the maximum lift height allowed.
Bicycle assembly tool kit.
- Hexagon set
- Phillips screwdriver
- Slotted screwdriver (flat)
- Key 15
- Lubrication (The bike will come treated with factory lubrication. But when using it, you will definitely need it. For example, to process the chain after riding)
Remove the packing material and clamps from the bike.
Be careful not to hurt shift cable and brakes
Assembling the bike out of the box
- Road pump
- Pedal wrench
- Hexagon set
- Wrench (optional, but recommended)
- Lubricant can
- Stand / Tripod (desirable, very helpful)
- Nippers (Cut off brake cables, derailleur cables and crimp the ends if you need to set gears and brakes).
General concepts you need to know
Do not overtighten the bolts! Follow the guidelines, which are usually written in small letters near the bolts. The pod is usually tightened to 6Nm. It is important. Overtightening can ruin components, and under-tightening can cause them to slide out. (No one wants the steering wheel to shake when going down a steep hill !!)
The threads must be lubricated. This also applies to bolts and pedals. On most new bikes, the bolts are pre-lubricated. Without lubrication, they will get stuck.
Teflon spray is ideal for wire rope lubrication.
If you are building a children’s bike, they are much easier, and it will not take so much time to fiddle with gear changes and a headset.
Most bicycles come in a large number of packages, with a handlebar strapped to the wheels. The first thing to do is to unpack everything from a pile of polyethylene, ropes and cables. The easiest way is to place the bike frame on a tripod and cut off all the windings. If you don’t have a tripod, lean your bike against the wall.
And remember, the bike may be the wrong size or defective, and you may have to return it. Therefore, it will be correct to unpack it carefully and approximately understand how it was packed. Because if you need a return, you can put it in the same box.
When unpacking is complete, insert the wheels. Insert the axle into the wheel, first apply a thin layer of grease along the entire length of the axle rod (these may already be lubricated from the factory). Check the rotation of the wheel (the direction of rotation is marked on the side of the tire with an arrow). The cam axle lever should be on the left side of the bike when you sit on it.
When installing the front wheel, simply insert the axle into the fork grooves, leaving the cam lever on the left side. Make sure the wheel is positioned exactly halfway between the forks. You may need to loosen the cam to expand the brake calipers to make room for the wheel to move. Inexpensive bikes may not have a cam, but then you can loosen the tire by releasing air from it.
Also you need to pump up the wheel! A road pump with a pressure gauge is best suited for this. Most often, the tires indicate the pressure to which they need to be inflated.
Turn the steering wheel in a circle
To do this, you will most likely need hexagons, the size of which will depend on your bike. Typically a bike uses 4 or 2 sizes of hex bolts, in some cases torx. If you do not have an appropriate wrench on hand, you can use a hexagon one size smaller. If the bolts are not lubricated, it is recommended to lubricate them to prevent them from failure in the near future.
Loosen the stem bolts and turn the handlebars to the desired position. Then tighten the bolts and be sure to tighten everything moderately. If you overtighten one of them, the stem may break. When using a wrench, 5-6 Nm will be enough for each bolt.
The seat may be already in the frame, but fixed in its lower position so that the bike fits into the box. Therefore, you will need to set it to the height you want, according to your height and your fit.
Install brakes and gears
For safety reasons, as well as for fun, we recommend that you check that the brakes and stars are set correctly and that the headset is snug. Some bikes come without cables. It is quite easy to install them yourself, but you should proceed carefully. If you need to cut cables, be sure to use the correct tools, wire cutters. Take your time to use scissors, as they chamfer the edges of the cable.
Note: The cables are in grooves and it is absolutely normal that after a couple of weeks they will stretch slightly. This can affect the speed of the brakes and the transmission system. This is normal and you or your local mechanic only needs to tweak them slightly.
Special attention should be paid to the setting of the speed switches. They should be mounted on the handlebars so that you can use them comfortably so that you don’t have to reach for them with your fingers. Shift cables should be installed so as to provide maximum freedom of movement of the steering wheel and at the same time do not dangle in different directions.
Of course, all these are just basic tips, but even if you listen to at least them, you will be able to assemble your new iron friend yourself. However, even if you are afraid to do it yourself due to insufficient experience or for some other reason, then you can always use the help of a master from the nearest bicycle workshop.
Velo-shop.ru store, in this photo essay will tell you how to assemble a bike out of the box
- Frame with rear wheel and attachments
- Steering wheel
- Front wheel
- Box or bag with the necessary components and spare parts.
- This bike kit includes fenders, they will be sealed in a separate bag. (It is possible to complete the bike without fenders)
Do not throw away the wing bag or tear it, you will find instructions for assembling the wings on the bag.