Assemble Bicycle Rear Wheel Brake

Table of Contents

Bicycle hubs and rear wheel axle

When choosing a bike, many novice cyclists often look at the rear derailleur, frame, presence or absence of a shock absorber. At the same time, insufficient attention is paid to such an important component as the wheel hub.

Types of bicycle hubs and their components

Classification of bushings

There are two types of bushings. front and rear. The front is simpler and not subject to the same stresses as the rear, especially if a fork with a shock absorber is installed on the bike. The rear hub is used to transfer torque from the pedals to the rear wheel, the dynamic characteristics of the bike depend on it, so further we will talk about it.

Bicycle hubs differ in the material they are made of and also in the interior. They usually consist of an axle, a hub with flanges to which the spokes are attached, and bearings. There are the following types of rear wheel hubs:

  • Ratchet, in which a set of sprockets is combined with a ratchet mechanism into a single whole. Such hubs are often used on bicycles in the lower price segment.
  • Cassette, in which a set of rear sprockets is installed on a special drum using a spline connection.
  • Planetary with internal gear shifting, in which the gears are located inside the housing of the hub itself. They are heavy and expensive, but reliable and require little or no maintenance.

The first two types are most widespread, and planetary ones remain rather exotic, although they are often used in city bikes.

Ratchet hubs are cheaper but less reliable and outdated, so cassette option is better.

Bearings

An important factor to look for when choosing a hub is the type of bearings installed in them. Bulk ball bearings remain the most common type, but industrial bearings in cartridges are more reliable.

In the first case, tapered nuts are attached to the axis of the bicycle, which press the balls to the cups, which are structurally part of the housing of the hub itself. Units with such bearings are easy to maintain and repair, but they quickly become clogged.

In products with industrial bearings, the balls in the cassette are pressed directly into the hub. They are great for a sports bike as they offer greater efficiency and better protection from dirt. Another advantage of bushings on industrial bearings is that they do not require adjustment of the axial clearance and frequent lubrication, but they are rather difficult to disassemble.

Bushing body

Typically, the hub body is the wheel hub. It has flanges on which the spokes are attached, and due to the presence of a set of sprockets on the rear wheel, the spokes are slightly shorter on one side. In bushings with loose bearings, the inner surface has tracks along which the balls move.

Rear axle

The rear axle of the bicycle is a threaded rod rigidly fixed in the dropouts, which does not transmit torque, but at the same time carries the main load when the bicycle is moving. It is usually made of steel, titanium or aluminum alloy and is an integral part of the bushing.

Depending on the type of attachment, the axles can be hollow or solid. Hollow ones are used in conjunction with eccentric braces to facilitate wheel mounting and dismounting. These axles are more rigid and lighter.

Another way to fix the wheel is to fix its axle in the frame stays with special nuts. For a frame with horizontal dropouts, an axle with nuts is more suitable due to a more reliable and durable wheel attachment.

Some mountain bikes and cyclocross bikes use thru axles with a threaded end. These axles are part of the frame design and are usually supplied with it.

The thickness of the rear axle depends on the bike type, and its length is determined by the distance between the dropouts of the frame stays. In some models of bushings, the diameter can be changed using special adapters. The following axes are usually used (the first number is the diameter, and the second is the length):

  • 10×135 mm. used in most modern bicycles;
  • 10x130mm. Mounts on road bikes;
  • 12x150mm. bike axles for downhill and free ride;
  • 10×170 mm. such axles are installed on fat bikes;
  • 10x120mm. Suitable for speed track bike.

On bicycles for extreme sports of the High End level, special axles of increased thickness can be used, which have increased strength.

Disassembly and maintenance of the rear hub

The rear wheel mechanism of a bicycle requires periodic maintenance and repair, and often inexperienced cyclists have problems disassembling and assembling it. However, this is a fairly simple operation, and after a little practice it becomes more difficult. The main thing is to choose the right tool and be patient. You should also be very careful, otherwise a small part or ball rolling somewhere can cause serious problems, and it will be impossible to assemble the mechanism correctly. If you are not sure of your actions, then you can even record the process on video, so that during reassembly it is clear where to install this or that element.

All common bushings are designed to be disassembled from the side opposite to the sprockets, that is, to the left. Consider the sequence of actions when disassembling a product on bulk bearings, since this design is the most common:

  • First you need to unscrew the nuts and disconnect the wheel from the frame. With eccentric clamps, you don’t even need tools. After the wheel has been removed, you can start disassembling.
  • Now you need to remove the sprockets, otherwise it will be impossible to get full access to the inside of the bushing. If the wheel has a cassette, you will need a tool called a whip and a puller. The whip is thrown over the large star and holds it, and the puller is inserted into the cassette and rotated counterclockwise. After dismantling the cassette, you need to remove the brake disc from the left side of the hub (if disc brakes are installed).
  • To disassemble the ratchet wheel you need a puller and a wrench with good leverage. You have to put in quite a lot of effort, because the ratchet was twisting all the time you were cycling. The ratchet also needs to be unscrewed counterclockwise.
  • For further work, you need two keys. The special cone wrench has a small thickness, it holds the bushing cone, and with the second wrench you need to unlock the left nut that fixes this cone. The unlocked nut can be unscrewed, and now the rear axle of the bicycle can be easily removed from the hub, giving access to the bearings and the inner surface of the wheel hub.
  • The balls can be covered with metal anthers. Both must be carefully removed and folded into some box. That’s all, the sleeve is disassembled, now you can start maintenance and repair.

The scheme for disassembling the bushing on industrial bearings is even simpler, a certain difficulty is only removing the cassettes with balls, since they are pressed quite tightly into the hub. The cartridge will have to be removed with a special tool or knocked out with hammer blows along the axis, but this must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the flange.

Sometimes you have to disassemble the drum itself, on which the cassette with stars is attached. In this case, a special splined puller is required. But such a need arises extremely rarely, and in this case it is still better to contact the workshop.

Maintenance of the rear bushings consists of removing old grease, cleaning parts from dirt, checking their integrity and applying new grease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse not only the bearings and the inner surface of the hub, but also the threads on the nuts and axles, since sand is often packed into it. When twisted, it collects on the surface of the cone, and can cause crunching and even damage to the balls. This is usually done with gasoline, thinner or special detergents. After cleaning, apply grease to all moving parts.

The assembly of the bushing is carried out in the reverse order. If the details are not lost, then everything will go without any difficulties.

The most common problems and how to fix them

If the bushing locknuts are not tightened sufficiently, then during the wheel rotation, the rear axle beats against the bearings. As a result, cavities appear on the tracks of the cones, and the balls are deformed. If the backlash is not eliminated in time, then chips will form on the cones and the inner surface of the sleeve. In especially advanced cases, the balls can even jump out of the tracks and begin to rotate inside the bushing, grinding the axle and destroying the hub, then you will have to replace the entire unit and re-spoke the wheel.

To avoid backlash, the cones must be correctly adjusted. To do this, gradually tighten the flare nut, trying to find a condition in which the wheel rotates freely without beating. When the correct position is found, lock the cone with a locknut. When locking the cone, the axis often starts to rotate, and the correct position is lost, so you can clamp the right end of the axis in a vice.

Padding the cone

This situation is the opposite of the previous one: the flare nuts are tightened too tightly, which causes excessive friction in the hub, and the wheel loses roll. In this case, adjustment of the cones is also required, and all actions are similar to those described above.

Broken or bent axis

Another frequently occurring problem is axle curvature or violation of its integrity, caused by low-quality materials used in their manufacture, or by design features of the bushing itself. Such breakages are mainly characteristic of ratchet bushings, since their support bearings are too far from the axle attachment point in the dropouts of the frame feathers. The result is too large a lever, and when the load increases, the axle becomes unusable.

Crackle or noise inside the hub

Noises, squeaks, and crunching signals indicate that your bushing needs to be serviced. And this should be done as soon as possible, otherwise everything could end very badly. First you need to disassemble the bushing, change the lubricant and check the parts for defects. Defective components must be replaced. If after all this the problem remains, then it is worth consulting a specialist. It is possible that it arose due to the poor quality of the sleeve itself, and you will have to install a new one.

The rear hub of a bicycle is a very important and often underestimated element of a bicycle, and its axle is subjected to increased loads. Sand, dirt, microscopic debris and dust are abrasive and destroy metal. Failures of the mechanical part of the rear wheel require expensive repairs or even replacement of the entire assembly, therefore timely and correct maintenance of the hub will significantly extend the life of your bike and help avoid unnecessary expenses.

Dismantling the rear wheel of a speed bike. How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bike maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you can acquire skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This also includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.

Usually, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. Open-end or box wrenches are recommended. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten very carefully so as not to damage the rim, do not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it is time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse gear is removed with a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is not a long matter, but you will have to make a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, loosen the spoke tension slightly. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the needles. You need to loosen up a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

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A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:

  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • whip tightening the cassette mechanism.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

We disassemble and assemble the wheel: the device of the rear hub of the bicycle

Most modern bicycles are two-wheeled. The rear wheel of a bicycle, the device of which will be discussed below, is most often the leading wheel and begins to rotate under the action of the movement of the chain.

Device

Before disassembling the rear wheel of a bicycle, installing it on a special stand, or any other component of the vehicle, it is necessary to study its structure.

It consists of the following components:

  • sleeve;
  • rim;
  • knitting needles;
  • tube or tire that must have the correct pressure.

The device of the rear wheel hub of a bicycle is quite simple: it is attached to the rim with spokes (from 12 to 48 pieces).

Wheel size is determined by the outside diameter, which ranges from 14 to 29 inches. Mountain bike models are more often equipped with 26-inch wheels, while hybrid or touring bikes are equipped with 28-inch wheels.

The rear wheel arrangement of a speed bike is not spoked. Instead, a solid disc is used for increased rigidity. This design is less resistant to oncoming air flow, but has increased windage, which makes it difficult to ride in a crosswind.

The life of a wheel depends on the design of the rim, and its strength affects the speed and safety of the ride. Modern bicycles are most often equipped with box-like rims. Thanks to this shape, the wheel is protected from damage when hitting a hard obstacle.

Steel or aluminum alloys are most often used as a material for the manufacture of rims. The steel rim is cheaper, but it is heavier and less resistant to corrosion. Carbon is considered the most modern material, but the price of such models is very high.

Spokes

A rather vulnerable part of the structure. In addition to the rider’s weight, the spokes are regularly stressed by the unevenness of the road surface. The spoke is fixed in the rim with a nipple. The most common materials are steel and aluminum.

Depending on the production process, the needles can be:

  • katan (the cheapest option);
  • pulled (lighter, but more expensive);
  • flat (the most expensive option, surpassing others in weight and resistance to oncoming air flows).

Spitsovka

Spoke is the order in which the hub, rim, and spokes are locked. It can be radial or cross. Radial provides for the installation of the hub without crossing the spokes with each other. Crossing the needles occurs.

Sleeve

The hub is located in the center of the wheels and is attached to the bike frame. Provides wheel rotation, eliminating slipping and turning. Rear hub helps roll the bike. efficient travel without wasting energy.

Bicycle rear hub design provides the following configurations:

  • the presence of a free wheeling, lack of a braking mechanism;
  • lack of free play, the presence of a brake mechanism;
  • the presence of a free wheeling and braking mechanism.

The dimensions of the hub, its weight and quality affect the ride and energy consumption of the cyclist while riding. There are three types of this node.

  • Ratchet Hub. Modern rear hub allows cassette sprockets to be mounted on the drum. The bearings are located closer to the middle, which negatively affects the uniformity of the load distribution. It is customary to complete teenage and inexpensive bicycle models with such bushings.
  • The cassette hub is another modern mechanism option. In this case, the cassette is fixed by means of the slots located on the sleeve. Such bushings are reliable and can withstand loads of up to 120 kg, since the bearings in them are located closer to the edge.
  • The planetary hub of the rear wheel of a bicycle is a design that combines the functions of a hub and a derailleur. The device of the rear wheel hub of this type of bicycle is rather complicated: the mechanism is closed by a case, which protects it from dust and moisture. In this case, the chain when working with it will last longer, since it does not change the position for switching speed.

The 3-speed hub has a simple design, while the 5- or 7-speed gears are best left unassembled. Gear wheels of planetary systems are installed in a certain position during assembly. Such work requires special equipment.

Disassembly, cleaning / lubrication

How do I remove the rear wheel hub on my bike for cleaning and lubrication? The following procedure is required:

  • the cassette is dismantled with a puller;
  • the stopper opens;
  • washers with bearings are removed;
  • troubleshooting is carried out by examining the surface of the bearings: worn out elements must be replaced, the rest are cleaned with a solvent;
  • the axis is removed;
  • inside the case is cleaned with a soft cloth, all elements are lubricated (special attention must be paid to the bearings).

How to assemble a bicycle rear wheel hub? Assembling the rear wheel of a mountain bike or any other bike is carried out in the reverse order. When installing parts inside the case, you must first put grease on its walls.

The rear wheel is then replaced. How to do this is shown in the video.

Before proceeding to disassemble the rear wheel of a bicycle to repair the hub, you must clearly understand the order of these actions. Otherwise, the situation will only get worse. If you are not 100% confident in your own abilities, watch the video, which will explain everything in detail.

Service

To keep the bike mechanisms in good condition, you need to periodically service it. For the rear wheel, similar work is done as follows:

  • the body is tightened;
  • defective bearings are replaced;
  • mechanisms are lubricated;
  • adjustable brake pads.

Despite its unpretentiousness, the rear wheel, with prolonged use without proper maintenance, will become unusable, which will require its repair. In addition, the rear wheel must be constantly adjusted to make the ride comfortable.

How to sort out a hub with a foot brake

Disassembling the sleeve

Cleaning, lubrication

Bushing assembly

Bicycles with one gear and foot brake are still popular today, because many people simply do not need a bicycle with gears for their purposes. Also, single speed hubs are available on all children’s bicycles up to 20 inches. They are reliable, simple in design, but the problem is that if a low-quality lubricant is used in the hub, it will strongly resist rotation and it will be frankly difficult to ride a bicycle. And if an adult can withstand this resistance, then the child after a short period of time simply will not want to get on the bike anymore. Therefore, take care of changing the grease in the rear hub.

We’ll be looking at the rear wheel bulkhead for an adult bike, but keep in mind that the construction is exactly the same on kids’ bikes. For the purity of the experiment, we took a new wheel, weakened the cones so that it spins easily, but also does not play. This is how it spins

Tools

17mm spanner.

15 mm cone wrench.

Flat screwdriver.

Bearing grease. We will use Mobil XHP 222 multifunctional grease. You can get by with cheaper greases such as lithol.

!Important. The lubricant must be plastic (not liquid).

Disassembling the sleeve

We start work on the right side (where the asterisk is).

Remove the retaining ring holding the star with a screwdriver

Remove the star and the metal boot, then grab the 15 mm cone with a cone wrench and loosen the lock nut with a 17 mm wrench

We unscrew the locknut and the cone

Unscrew and take out the right side of the coupling together with the bearings

We take out the left part of the clutch together with the brake lever

As you can see, this is not the worst lubrication option. Despite its overly viscous consistency, judging by the flash photo, the grease is similar to graphite. But this happens on adult bicycles. Unfortunately, for children, either a drying paste or a Moment glue is laid, which simply do not allow the wheel to spin normally. It’s good if the bushing manufacturer regrets the lubrication. then your child will be able to ride more or less normally. Otherwise, cycling will take place with a great deal of suffering.

The disassembled left side looks like this

Cleaning, lubrication

First, remove as much of the grease as possible with rags or toilet paper. Take some kind of cleaner (we used a pressure cylinder carburetor cleaner) or solvent and clean as much of the inside of the bushing as possible. By the way, the beloved WD-40 is also suitable.

Wipe the parts clean. If you don’t have a cleaner, you can simply wipe it down more thoroughly with rags.

Apply grease to the inside of the bushing housing, including the surfaces that the bearing interacts with

The main task is to assemble the left side of the clutch and completely install it into the bushing together with the pads.

We install a washer in part of the coupling, behind it a spring so that the antennae are directed outward

Lubricate the cone next to the brake lever, install a bearing on it

!The bearing should rest with the balls on the bushing cup, and on the other side should be supported by the cone.

Bushing assembly

We fall with antennae into special holes made in the cone. For clarity, photos without lubrication

Lubricate part of the coupling, put pads on it. The protrusions on the pads must lie on the cone between its protrusions

In this form, we install the resulting structure into the sleeve body

We install a bearing of a larger diameter into the bushing housing with balls inward, and a bearing of a smaller diameter into the right side of the coupling, after having lubricated all surfaces

We tighten the coupling, screw on the cone and locknut, then grab the cone and tighten the locknut. It is important to choose a moment when the wheel turns easily, but has no backlash.

We install the boot, the asterisk, and then put the retaining ring in the groove specially designed for it

The video shows a visual result of changing the lubricant (compare with the video at the beginning of the article)

An hour-long video of single speed hub with coaster brake overhaul will perfectly complement our article.

How to remove and repair the rear wheel of a bicycle

A bicycle, transport is quite convenient, economical and reliable, does not require investment in fuel, does not need a garage, is healthy, does not pollute the environment. But sometimes even in such an ideal vehicle, failures occur.

This is the most common puncture when you need to change a wheel. “Well, what’s wrong with that?”, Say experienced cyclists, but do not forget that due to the fact that the bicycle market is flooded with products from different companies and countries. manufacturers, each bicycle brand has its own peculiarity, and therefore, in order to correctly and quickly change the wheel, you need to know the order of actions.

First, you need to know which brake is on your bike. If it is a disc brake, then removing it will be much easier. Well, if you own a rim brake, then you have to tinker a little. It will be necessary to first unclench it, and only then remove it. If you forget to do this, then the wheel simply will not come off, no matter how you pull it.

Place the bike upside down, securely fastened to the handlebars and saddle. Do not forget to pre-remove all unnecessary accessories and equipment, such as a navigator or travel computer.

The brake lever and brake lever need to be protected during your actions, so wrap them in some soft material. Thus, you will save them from breakage.

If your bike has V-BRAKE brakes, start the process by squeezing the pads, these actions will lead to the possibility of removing the arc. Squeeze where the cable attaches to the wheel. You don’t need much strength here, and you will quickly cope.

The hydraulic brake does not like being held upside down, so if this is the first time you are replacing the rear wheel, do not forget to bleed the brake later, most likely it will get air.

Of course, you can ignore this advice, because the pumping procedure itself is a long and laborious process, but then your brakes will no longer be reliable, and then you will have to blame only yourself.

As you know, the rear wheel is attached to the axle of the bike. The types of attachment are quite diverse, and the whole procedure will be determined from what you get. If your wheel is fastened with nuts, then you need to have a couple of adjustable wrenches. Clamp the nut with one key, and unscrew the second with another key.

It is not necessary to unscrew the nut completely, it is enough to make a couple of turns with a wrench. See the wheel comes off easily.

What if you have a disc eccentric? It’s easier than you think. Place the chain on the smallest sprocket at the back.

On the left side of the bushing you will see a lever that is responsible for the eccentric clamp.

Unscrew the brake lever and rotate counterclockwise 180 °, from right to left. Do not twist it around the hub axis.

There is a nut to the right of the sleeve, turn it off a couple of turns, and slowly move the switch lever to the position and back

Without releasing the chain tensioner lever, slowly remove the wheel from the fork tip. That’s it, the wheel is off.

Don’t forget the chain that runs through the entire speed shifting system. It must be carefully removed from the sprockets, without touching only near the frame.

If you grab the wheel and gently pull it up, then it should come out without effort. It is worth paying attention to the following recommendation: in no case press the disc brake handle, otherwise the pads will shrink.

Now let’s talk about how to unbuckle a wheel, because many representatives of the stronger sex do not want to walk, saving their time, and change to four-wheeled or two-wheeled friends. Camera puncture is quite common. Therefore, in order to quickly perform this operation, it is necessary that you have special tools that will help you cope with the trouble and get back into operation with your vehicle.

What is disassembly and how is it done. In words, it’s quite simple: you have to remove the tire from the rim or disc of the bicycle in order to carry out the process of replacing or gluing the camera later. To do this, you need beads, but if you have screwdrivers available, they will work too.

How to unbuckle a bicycle wheel

Bicycle wheel disassembly

We carry out the process of removing the wheel. How to do it mentioned above.

Now you need to lower the wheel, because without this, you will not be able to remove the camera. We find the cap that is screwed onto the tire nipple, turn it over in the opposite direction and insert it into the nipple and start twisting.

If you do everything correctly, you will hear the sound characteristic of the descent wheel, the hiss of air bleeding through the opening.

After the air is deflated, take the beads or screwdrivers. With the help of one we pick up the tire located near the nipple, and we drag it out, the screwdriver itself, attention, we leave inside. Do not be distracted, because you can break through the camera, be especially careful.

Now we take the second bead (screwdriver), and a little further from the nipple we pry the tire. Pull it out gently. So, step by step, making movements in a circle, you will remove the tire, be it a rim or a disc.

So, step by step

  • The rim brake opens, if any
  • We remove the damaged wheel, having previously unbuttoned and unscrewed the eccentric. Make sure that the unscrewed nut and the removed spring are not lost when falling
  • We lower the pressure in the chamber to the minimum
  • We stick a bead between the tire and the rim located on the side of the wheel. Side must be opposite to nipple
  • We release the border towards the center of the wheel and hook it onto the spoke, do not forget to do this, because this is a common mistake of novice cyclists
  • After 5-10 centimeters, repeat, but with a different border
  • Remove evenly, with both hands, finish near the nipple
  • Removing the camera
  • We remove the second bead of the tire. Do not forget to look and feel the tire, if there is any sharp object or pebble left there, which will ruin the next tire
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Tools you should always have with you

Sideboards (side vanes, “assemblies”, “mounts”, in extreme cases, screwdrivers). Used to remove tires from the rim. This is a spatula made of plastic or metal, which has a hook for securing it to the knitting needle.

It is better if you have a set of 2-3 pieces, the speed at which the tire will be removed depends on this, because sometimes a girl can remove the tire with her hands, too, without straining, and sometimes a set of three will make you make an effort.

Camera patches. Now such kits are used that the problem will be fixed in a very short time. Can be self-adhesive.

Rubber or special “Bicycle” glue. Take it better, as super glues do not work at low temperature conditions.

Emery paper, required when cleaning at the puncture site.

Any aggressive liquid (such as gasoline) for degreasing the cleaned area. Do not take acetone, the combination of glue and acetone will give an unexpected effect.

We glue the camera

It is necessary to determine exactly where the puncture happened. This is done before removing the tire from the rim. Try to find the item that punctured. He often looks out from the punctured site. Pull it out, and mark the damaged area.

Carefully remove the tire, having previously marked the puncture site on the camera. This will localize the site of damage in an area of ​​several centimeters. Of course, if it is possible to put the camera in water, you will find the punctured place much faster, but small cracks cannot be discerned with the help of water, moreover, it should be dried later.

You can wet your fingers to find the puncture site and run them around the camera. Wet fingers are more likely to find this place thanks to the released air. Another way is to hold the camera to your ear and listen. You need to hear a hiss coming out of the damage.

If you have visually identified the puncture site, then you can perform repairs without removing the wheel and without performing disassembly. This will save you time and labor costs. But, the quality of the repair may suffer from this.

Please note that there may be several damage, so make a thorough inspection of the camera over the entire area. Mark all punctures. Occasionally there will be a double puncture with the same object, so look at both the top and the inside of the camera.

Bicycle camera repair

When gluing the camera, read the instructions for use of the first aid kit or rubber glue in advance. Usually, you clean the punctured area with sandpaper, degrease the gluing site, apply on both surfaces that you will glue the glue, wait about 5-10 minutes for the glue to finally set, and press the surfaces together with force.

In this case, the main thing is strength, not how long you will stand holding the rubber. That’s it, the camera is ready for further use. But there is one caveat, if the puncture is made in cold weather, then the glue can dry for a very long time, if it dries at all.

After the work on sealing the chamber is finished, it is necessary to perform a trial pumping. Before finally installing the camera, pump it to check the effectiveness of the repair. In order to find out if the camera is leaking, press it and, if there is no hiss at the place of repair, then everything is in order.

If there is water, check with it. If the air does not come out, then you can reinstall the camera.

If things are really bad, there is nothing to repair, but you need to go, then use the means at hand, everything will do: scotch tape, adhesive plaster, electrical tape, your actions should be aimed at reducing the release of air from the chamber. Thus, you can get quite far, the main thing is not to get discouraged.

INSTALLING THE CAMERA IN PLACE

Inflate the camera a little to avoid damaging it again.

Insert the nipple into a special hole in the rim and carefully insert the entire tube into the middle of the tire.

Tuck the edges of the tire over the entire width of the wheel into the rim. It should be possible to do this with your hands, but if the edges do not want to fall into place in any way, take the editing and use it to complete your plan. Do this carefully, otherwise you will have a new puncture.

In order for the camera to be able to straighten inside, pump up the wheel a little and knead the camera, this will be enough for the camera to take the correct position.

Bleed the wheel to the required state. To do this correctly, without fear that the wheel will burst unexpectedly, after inflation, squeeze the camera with two fingers. If your fingers cannot overcome resistance, then the camera is pumped up enough, you can hit the road.

HOW TO PUT THE WHEEL IN PLACE

To do this, you need to make sure that the chain fits on the sprocket as expected. Therefore, first put on the chain on the sprocket, and only after that we put the wheel on the mount. If you have gloves, put them on, otherwise it is very difficult to wash your hands after such an installation. Slide the wheel into the mount so as not to confuse rotation.

It is required to fasten the wheel firmly enough so that it does not fly off when driving.

Put the brakes back in place, as it was, this means the rim brakes.

It happens that it seems as if the chain is twisted or is not properly placed on the sprockets, tangled. Just spin the chain back and forth using the pedals, or by hand, without removing the wheel, the defect should be corrected. If you move the gearshift mechanism located in the chain mechanism aside and put on the released chain as desired.

After all procedures are completed, perform a test drive. Check how the brakes behave, whether the patch is missing, and then you can safely go further on your business.

Disassembly and assembly of the rear bicycle wheel

It’s no secret that any vehicle periodically needs repair and maintenance. The bike is no exception. And also sometimes this need is due to the desire to upgrade your bike. To prepare it for such manipulations, of course, the structure will have to be disassembled, and although a bicycle is not a very complex mechanism, still not every cyclist has an idea of ​​how to disassemble the rear wheel of a bicycle.

Removing the rear bicycle wheel

The main components of the wheel

A standard bicycle wheel consists of several main parts:

  • bushing. the central part, due to which the torque is provided. The interior of the rear hub is slightly more complex than the front. Not every bushing can be disassembled at home, some variations without special equipment and knowledge are better left untouched. And also brakes can be attached to this part;
  • spokes connecting the hub to the rim;
  • the rim on which the tire is mounted;
  • tire.

So, if the rear wheel of a bicycle needs to be repaired, or if it’s just time to service the spare parts, it is necessary to clarify the procedure that should be taken when removing the wheel.

Dismantling sequence

First, remove all unnecessary items from the bike that may be on it. And it is also better to unscrew all kinds of mirrors, flashlights and other little things that can be damaged during work.

Upside down bike

  • We turn the bike upside down, put it on the handlebar and seat. You can do without a special rack for repairing a bicycle, the main thing is to give it a stable position.
  • We find out the type of brakes installed for further action. As usual, these are disc or rim brakes:
  • disc brake. It will be easier to remove the wheel with it;
  • The rim brake of the V-brake type must first be released and removed, otherwise further dismantling of the wheel will no longer be possible. (It is not difficult to release the brakes, for this you need to move the cable to the side of the fastening screw, move the levers, removing the end of the cable from the clamp, lower it down and spread the brake levers to the sides).
  • Next, we act depending on the type of attachment of the rear wheel to the bicycle axle. We unscrew the nuts with a wrench (one or two) or, if the mount is a disc eccentric, unscrew the brake lever and twist the wheel.
  • The chain passing through the gearshift system is carefully removed from the sprockets.

Carefully remove the chain from the sprockets

The wheel is removed. Now you can carry out all the necessary further manipulations: replacement, adjustment, lubrication of parts.

Camera replacement

First of all, you need to lower the wheel. unscrew the cap and release the air by pressing the nipple. If the chamber is damaged and there is no air in it, simply remove the cap. To remove the tire, you will need mounting paddles, with which it will be convenient to pry the tube until it becomes easy to pull it off the rim.

The camera can be replaced without the need for tools. First, the nipple is inserted into the hole in the rim, after which the tire is evenly put on the rim. Finally, the camera needs to be pumped up to the desired state.

Removing the sleeve

We remove the cassette with asterisks using a special puller, a key and a whip. First, we insert the puller into the nut, then insert the key into it, put on the whip on the large asterisk, hold the asterisks with it, and unscrew the nut. Now that the nut is unscrewed, you can easily reach the cassette with stars.

Before disassembling the hub, the tension on the spokes should be loosened so that it can easily be pulled out of the engagement. When parsing this part, it is better to decompose all of its components in order, so that later you can precisely put everything in place. If necessary, you can replace the bearings, which, unlike metal components, are the first to fail. Timely service of the bushing will ensure its long service life, so do not neglect cleaning and lubricating the mechanism parts.

In the reverse order, the spokes are tightened exactly as far as they have been loosened, it is important not to overtighten them, but the parts must be firmly fixed. The cassette is put on the sleeve and tightened with a whip.

After all the procedures performed, due to which the wheel and its parts were dismantled, you need to know how to assemble the rear wheel of the bike back.

Installing the rear wheel

In order to carry out the installation correctly, assemble everything in place should be clearly in the reverse order.

  • Place the chain on the smallest sprocket, insert the wheel onto the frame mount. In this case, it is important to make sure that the axle is fully inserted into the grooves of the frame.
  • We fasten nuts or eccentrics, they should be tightened well so that the wheel firmly sits on the frame.
  • If there are rim brakes, fasten them. Return to the previous position in strictly reverse order, otherwise the next trip may not end very well.

After the installation process, it is advisable to check the correctness of the actions performed by means of a short test drive to see how your bike will behave on the road after the updates.

Maintenance and diagnostics of the rear wheel is a mandatory procedure to maintain the health of the mechanisms.

Replacing the bearing of the rear wheel of a bicycle will not cause you any difficulties if you understand all the nuances and features of servicing this part. The condition of the bearings, their timely maintenance and replacement is the key to safe driving.

How to remove and reinstall the front wheel of a bicycle. The sequence of dismantling and installing the front wheel.

How to choose a wheel motor for an e-bike. What factors to pay attention to when choosing. Advantages and disadvantages of varieties of motor-wheel motors.

Installing the rear bicycle wheel

If during the operation of the bike you find that the rear hub began to work incorrectly and there were knocks or problems when the wheel was spinning, then you need to adjust this hub. Bushings are different. The easiest way to adjust the bushing is “on balls”. This bushing has a long service life, and its repair is simple and not difficult.

1 First of all, determine which bushing you have installed. The bushing “on balls” is provided by wide bushing flanges. If you cannot visually distinguish the type of bushing, then feel free to unscrew the axle. If a ball bearing is found on the flange inside the cup, proceed as instructed.

2 Any bushing consists of an axle, a bearing, adjusting cone nuts and control nuts. The adjustment of the sleeve is determined by the position of the adjusting cones. These cones are rotated with a conventional wrench. Thus, if a backlash appears in the bushing, we just need to tighten these adjusting nuts.

3 Remove the rear wheel from the bike, take the necessary keys. Unscrew the counter nuts from the axle using the keys. If the bushing is more or less new and in working order, then the nut will be unscrewed only from one side. After the check nut, unscrew the cone and remove all washers.

4 Now remove the axle from the hub. When doing this, be extra careful and try not to loose the balls. If the ball enters the inner space of the bushing, it will be very difficult to remove it from there. Therefore, try to carefully remove all the balls from the cups and put them in some kind of container or on a tray.

5 To access the flange where the cassette is installed, it will need to be removed. For this, a special stripper is used, which is called a cassette stripper. The cassette is simply unscrewed. Keep in mind that there is a reverse thread and this part is unscrewed in the direction of the wheel’s free wheel. the wrench must be rotated in the direction of idling of the ratchet. Please note that removing the cassette is not easy and requires a lot of effort. The cassette itself is blocked from scrolling using the so-called. whip.

6 Wipe all parts of the bushing with a rag. Now you can remove the bearing from the cassette-covered flange. Clean it up too.

7 After that, it is necessary to install a “dead” nut on the side of the bushing that will work for twisting. During the movement, the friction forces will tighten it, but since the nut is already tightened, the bushing will continue to work. If this is not done, then during the movement the bushing may twist and stop rotating.

8 The “dead” side is very simple. The control nut and flare nut are screwed relative to each other using wrenches.

9 Now it is necessary to assemble the bushing in the reverse order, not forgetting to grease all the rubbing elements with grease (for example, the so-called Litol)

10 When adjusting, you will need to rotate the control nut and achieve such a position so that the hub axis rotates freely and smoothly at the same time, and at the same time does not play. Do not overtighten the sleeve. The bushing is overtightened if it is impossible to turn the wheel around its axis, holding the axle with your fingers.

Video

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This also includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.

Usually, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. Open-end or box wrenches are recommended. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten very carefully so as not to damage the rim, do not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

READ  How to install a rear cassette on a bike

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it is time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse gear is removed with a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is not a long matter, but you will have to make a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

Before disassembling the hub, loosen the spoke tension slightly. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the needles. You need to loosen up a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:

  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • whip tightening the cassette mechanism.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

Bicycle rear hub and its device

One of the important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

A hub is an element of a wheel that is attached to a bicycle frame, namely drop points. This is the central part of the wheel, allowing it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of such elements as:

  • Axis.
  • Lock-nut.
  • Washer.
  • Cone.

Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other

One of the reasons for dividing rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear hubs are divided into:

assemble, bicycle, rear, wheel
  • Without brake.
  • With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a brake mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about a hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that the pedals must be pressed in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts need to be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

  • Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
  • Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different. from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

When to service the rear hub

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is better to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than the front hub.

It is necessary to perform maintenance in such cases:

  • If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or rocking.
  • Backlash.
  • If the bearings crunch.
  • Poor rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the above signs of “illness” of your bike and use it for a long time if available, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for looseness and that the bearings are not too tight.

Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care.

First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

How to assemble a rear bike hub?

After lubrication, the sleeve must be reassembled. To properly assemble the rear hub, you must adhere to the following rules:

  • We insert the axis so as not to confuse which side is the right side of the axis, which is fixed tightly. The axis is adjusted with the left cone.
  • Next, put the left cone on the axle until it stops.
  • We put on the washers.
  • We screw on the lock nut.
  • Adjusting the bearings.

Rear wheel hub repair. Step-by-step instruction

  • Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
  • Remove the retaining ring.
  • Remove the hub axle. First, we remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:

  • Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
  • Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
  • Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
  • Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

  • After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
  • Remove the hub axle. First, we remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
  • Checking details for faults.
  • We replace the broken part.
  • We put all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and the locknut.

Causes of breakdowns

Bicycle wheel breakage occurs for various reasons. There can be a large number of them.

The main ones are:

  • Insufficient or no bushing maintenance.
  • Loose bushing (backlash).
  • Poor bushing parts.
  • Wear.
  • Padding the cone.

Thus, to ensure the long life of your bike, you should devote a certain amount of time to it. The basis of a bike’s long-term service is maintenance. You can do this yourself, with your own hands. The main thing in this is to observe safety precautions and carefully approach the matter, since every detail is important in the hub mechanism.

To service the bushing, it is necessary to remove all parts, lubricate, first removing all old grease. Then carefully re-install all parts in the reverse order. In this case, you should carefully consider the tightening of the locknuts and flare nut so as not to overtighten them. In addition, there are different types of rear hubs.

How to unbuckle a bicycle wheel

Bicycle wheel disassembly

We carry out the process of removing the wheel. How to do it mentioned above.

Now you need to lower the wheel, because without this, you will not be able to remove the camera. We find the cap that is screwed onto the tire nipple, turn it over in the opposite direction and insert it into the nipple and start twisting.

If you do everything correctly, you will hear the sound characteristic of the descent wheel, the hiss of air bleeding through the opening.

After the air is deflated, take the beads or screwdrivers. With the help of one we pick up the tire located near the nipple, and we drag it out, the screwdriver itself, attention, we leave inside. Do not be distracted, because you can break through the camera, be especially careful.

Now we take the second bead (screwdriver), and a little further from the nipple we pry the tire. Pull it out gently. So, step by step, making movements in a circle, you will remove the tire, be it a rim or a disc.

So, step by step

  • The rim brake opens, if any
  • We remove the damaged wheel, having previously unbuttoned and unscrewed the eccentric. Make sure that the unscrewed nut and the removed spring are not lost when falling
  • We lower the pressure in the chamber to the minimum
  • We stick a bead between the tire and the rim located on the side of the wheel. Side must be opposite to nipple
  • We release the border towards the center of the wheel and hook it onto the spoke, do not forget to do this, because this is a common mistake of novice cyclists
  • After 5-10 centimeters, repeat, but with a different border
  • Remove evenly, with both hands, finish near the nipple
  • Removing the camera
  • We remove the second bead of the tire. Do not forget to look and feel the tire, if there is any sharp object or pebble left there, which will ruin the next tire

Tools you should always have with you

Sideboards (side vanes, “assemblies”, “mounts”, in extreme cases, screwdrivers). Used to remove tires from the rim. This is a spatula made of plastic or metal, which has a hook for securing it to the knitting needle.

It is better if you have a set of 2-3 pieces, the speed at which the tire will be removed depends on this, because sometimes a girl can remove the tire with her hands, too, without straining, and sometimes a set of three will make you make an effort.

Camera patches. Now such kits are used that the problem will be fixed in a very short time. Can be self-adhesive.

Rubber or special “Bicycle” glue. Take it better, as super glues do not work at low temperature conditions.

Emery paper, required when cleaning at the puncture site.

Any aggressive liquid (such as gasoline) for degreasing the cleaned area. Do not take acetone, the combination of glue and acetone will give an unexpected effect.

We glue the camera

It is necessary to determine exactly where the puncture happened. This is done before removing the tire from the rim. Try to find the item that punctured. He often looks out from the punctured site. Pull it out, and mark the damaged area.

Carefully remove the tire, having previously marked the puncture site on the camera. This will localize the site of damage in an area of ​​several centimeters. Of course, if it is possible to put the camera in water, you will find the punctured place much faster, but small cracks cannot be discerned with the help of water, moreover, it should be dried later.

You can wet your fingers to find the puncture site and run them around the camera. Wet fingers are more likely to find this place thanks to the released air. Another way is to hold the camera to your ear and listen. You need to hear a hiss coming out of the damage.

If you have visually identified the puncture site, then you can perform repairs without removing the wheel and without performing disassembly. This will save you time and labor costs. But, the quality of the repair may suffer from this.

Please note that there may be several damage, so make a thorough inspection of the camera over the entire area. Mark all punctures. Occasionally there will be a double puncture with the same object, so look at both the top and the inside of the camera.

Bicycle camera repair

When gluing the camera, read the instructions for use of the first aid kit or rubber glue in advance. Usually, you clean the punctured area with sandpaper, degrease the gluing site, apply on both surfaces that you will glue the glue, wait about 5-10 minutes for the glue to finally set, and press the surfaces together with force.

In this case, the main thing is strength, not how long you will stand holding the rubber. That’s it, the camera is ready for further use. But there is one caveat, if the puncture is made in cold weather, then the glue can dry for a very long time, if it dries at all.

After the work on sealing the chamber is finished, it is necessary to perform a trial pumping. Before finally installing the camera, pump it to check the effectiveness of the repair. In order to find out if the camera is leaking, press it and, if there is no hiss at the place of repair, then everything is in order.

If there is water, check with it. If the air does not come out, then you can reinstall the camera.

If things are really bad, there is nothing to repair, but you need to go, then use the means at hand, everything will do: scotch tape, adhesive plaster, electrical tape, your actions should be aimed at reducing the release of air from the chamber. Thus, you can get quite far, the main thing is not to get discouraged.

INSTALLING THE CAMERA IN PLACE

Inflate the camera a little to avoid damaging it again.

Insert the nipple into a special hole in the rim and carefully insert the entire tube into the middle of the tire.

Tuck the edges of the tire over the entire width of the wheel into the rim. It should be possible to do this with your hands, but if the edges do not want to fall into place in any way, take the editing and use it to complete your plan. Do this carefully, otherwise you will have a new puncture.

In order for the camera to be able to straighten inside, pump up the wheel a little and knead the camera, this will be enough for the camera to take the correct position.

Bleed the wheel to the required state. To do this correctly, without fear that the wheel will burst unexpectedly, after inflation, squeeze the camera with two fingers. If your fingers cannot overcome resistance, then the camera is pumped up enough, you can hit the road.

HOW TO PUT THE WHEEL IN PLACE

Wheel installation

To do this, you need to make sure that the chain fits on the sprocket as expected. Therefore, first put on the chain on the sprocket, and only after that we put the wheel on the mount. If you have gloves, put them on, otherwise it is very difficult to wash your hands after such an installation. Slide the wheel into the mount so as not to confuse rotation.

It is required to fasten the wheel firmly enough so that it does not fly off when driving.

Put the brakes back in place, as it was, this means the rim brakes.

It happens that it seems as if the chain is twisted or is not properly placed on the sprockets, tangled. Just spin the chain back and forth using the pedals, or by hand, without removing the wheel, the defect should be corrected. If you move the gearshift mechanism located in the chain mechanism aside and put on the released chain as desired.

After all procedures are completed, perform a test drive. Check how the brakes behave, whether the patch is missing, and then you can safely go further on your business.